Thanks for posting. Have you by any chance replaced the copper washer injector seals. Was wondering if it's necessary to remove the fuel filter/lines ? Cheers
TB1M1 I didn’t replace the washers. But I think I could have got the injectors out with the fuel lines just pulled back out the way. Maybe tie them back with some rope.
After i replaced my cracked leak off lines with genuine ford lines im getting tube from injector 4 popping off. I found that its a very easy to remove the hose from the fitting (manufacturers defect?). Replaced whole lines with one from ebay and now i had fitting on injector 4 coming off. Any advice whats going on? Im thinking could it be number 4 injector leaking and cousing higher pressure/flow on overflow side?
philip coughlan Yeah, I think it would be easy enough to get the injector out at this point. I can’t see what else is in the way. I’ve never taken one out myself though.
Yes very simple just a 13 cm bolt holding injector clamp then they come out. Dont lever them or they can break. Just twist them and the come out. Clean off with carb cleaner or oven cleaner to get rid of carbon. Block the 4 inlet holes first though. Ping pong balls fit perfectly as you dont want to be dropping crap in there.
I changed these pipes. After some time leaking started again. Is it possible that injector pressure is displacing the oring? What might be the reason? It is the 3rd time I am changing these orings.
I can’t seem to get the rocker cover back on as the o rings are preventing the cover from going all the way back into the intake manifold should I be easy or does it require a lot of effort, as I don’t want to apply too much pressure on the plastic
My ford fiesta 1.4 TDCI 11 plate goes into limp node at about 60 mph , and it went away once removed battery negative and cleared code.it happend again but befor this every time I put my foot down it would jerk back and kind of reduce speed. Then it went into engine management issues, where only firing on three cylinders, I left it 24 hours and runs on for again but only at low speed for 10 minutes then goes bad . I an suspecting shit injector. Well I was going to do a fuel flow test and see what injectors were not perfoming correctly befor taking them out, I could not believe the amount of stuff I had to remove just to get to the injectors clips never mind do the test ,by the time I got to where you show theres that much disconnected I had no way doing a fuel flow test, so I am skipping that and giving them a pressure pop test/ and a puls test/and going to test the ohms on the bench / hopefully this will give me enougth to conclude which ones can go back after a propper clean. I just hope I don`t have intermitton ones, that seem good but the electronic part plays up.as this will not show up on any test not even a scope as far as I know, But what I would say beings Ive had to get this far just so for piece of mind `ill replace all copper washers all rubber o rings to injecters as they should be done once removed. then replace or flush through return hoses,replace o rings to ports, replace fuel filter / air filter/ clean EGR / clean MAF sensor, test glow plugs and replace all 4 if one is bad as others will soon follow , new rocker gasket \ check all connectors and wires and check for cracked or split hoses, and check bolts that may of worked loose, Then if I still have an issue I know these things that have been done caint be the issue, plus I should think when was the last time these were done,
It sounds like an injector problem to me. I would take them all out and get them tested. If one has failed I would consider replacing them all if you can afford it. They play up intermittently. It’s the electrical side that fails usually.
If anyone still comments on this, please can you let me know if there is a trick to getting the pipe back on. I have stripped down and taken the pipe off. But the new pipe isn't going on, looks like it has to push through to a click before I can then put the clips back on. I just can't get them to go
Where can you source those fuel lines all I can find is the ones that lead to filter and have the hand pump on them (which I've been also advised to swap) I've got air in the lines (seen through the clearish plastic lines) and a duff egr which I tried cleaning but nothing, still got p0404. So new egr, and I'd like to do those lines aswell, but can't find them. Do you know the oem ref code?
ZeCalanga2391 they are the return lines from the injectors so they won’t cause air in your system. They will just cause a leak. There’s lots of little O rings on this system so if one of those failed that could cause your air. I’m pretty sure you do see air bubbles in those clear lines anyway. Just try a new EGR and cleaning out the air cooler that it connects to.
I've fitted a new return pipe but for some reason number 4 pipe keeps popping out and i don't know y . Ive pushed it in all the way but it keeps popping out.
Stuart Smart I had the same problem on another fiesta. Pull out the metal clip and squeeze it a bit tighter. I think they get a bit stretched and don’t hold the fitting tight enough. You need a good pair of long needle nose pliers.
Hi sir Im ready to do mine ,but in my case its the injector, 3 With my injectors they don`t` have to be programmed for my engine I have been told, I have a ford fiesta 1.4 TDCI zetec badge on the back but ford told me its a Duratorq engine ,But there`s no bleeding primer rubber bulb on my engine even though it looks like your engine, do you know why, mine is a MK6 2008
piece toyou the newer ones got rid of the bleeding bulb and you have to add one in to bleed. I’m not sure about the injectors. I’ve always been told they need to be programmed.
@@pdunleavy1982 I bought the primer kit today from internet, apparently the garage who specialise on injectors said i was lucky to have this type of engine no programming needed when placing a new injector in. When we were looking at the engine I told him the error code came up saying open circuit on 3, The error code said it was number 3 injector, He said this engine, you count from right to left ,so injector 3 would be as follows 4321 when standing in front of ,engine. Some thing to do with the way that particular country who help in the car production say that`s the way injectors get read with this model , I don`t think that`s the firing sequence I don`t know but its the way code shows as being the third one, I am no machinic as you would of noticed I just like to research then do it my self, I like to learn but have a bad back issue so can`t hold a machinic job down,
Hi Could be this leaking cause problem from link? ua-cam.com/video/reze1mivLzc/v-deo.html Machine want start - after pumping with hand pump staring normally.
Hi all I did change the sealer washer and I cleaned the injectors and new glow plug replaced and ventalited the air from the pump but the car won’t start. Any tips please?
Would this issue stop the car from starting? Looking to buy a no start project car which has air in the fuel line, owner has changed pick up pump.... probably a hole in the fuel line somewhere? Is this a common issue on the 1.4 tdci?
@@pdunleavy1982 Didn't think it would, has air before filter, chap has primed and it wants to start but air comes back, obviously a leak in the fuel line somewhere, just wondered if they were prone to leaks in any particular place, rubbing through etc..?
@@jamesmacdonald3090 I think you can buy all the fuel lines and the prime pump and 1 big group of pipes off Ford. Lots of places it could be leaking. Lots of little O rings that could fail. You could try by passing all that and feed it diesel direct and see if it starts.
@@pdunleavy1982 Might just fit a non return valve after the filter if I can't find the leak. I have bought the car as chap had sorted all the previous MOT advisories and it still has a current MOT plus another set of wheels with good tyres, at £250 I can always scrap it. It amazes me how sellers don't list these things in their adverts?
I have a mazda 2 2004, which has a ford engine... I replaced the fuel filter and fuel injector lines (as you show) I put it all back together and there's an even worse leak 🤷🏼♂️... Am I missing something?
I had one where the little metal clips that hold it into the injector had gone lose. I squeezed it tighter and it fixed the leak. Make sure all the connections have pushed all the way into the injector. Run the engine with the air filter housing off and you might see where the leak is.
@@pdunleavy1982 When I was putting the injector lines in they were a tight fit, with some long nose pliers and a little force they popped it, and the put the clips back in. I'v got the air box off now, I can't seem to see where the leak is coming from, but there's fuel sat round that area. All the clips and flush to the metal, no caps. So could it be the metal clips holding it in place... Not holding it?
@@mikeb3315 I thought I had done it right but one of them kept popping out a couple of mm. It could possibly be the injector seal in the head. I think there’s a copper washer in there. I’ve never done that job though.
@@pdunleavy1982 I'll got someone coming back out to take it all apart again lol... I'll update you night if it all works 🤞🏽 Ps I watched a video about changing the injector seals... So maybe that's something to change.
First thing I would check is the glow plugs. Sometimes a good service helps. On these cars I think the glow plugs keep getting warm after the light goes out. Give it 20 seconds before you turn the engine over. Make sure you’ve got good diesel as well.
Great video, thank you, any chance you know where the fuel rail pressure sensor is on these engines? I've been told under the fuel filter housing but it doesn't look like the same part that can be bought..
@@pdunleavy1982 found it 😊.. I had to dismantle half the bloody engine, it was positioned below the fuel filter, on the end of the elusive fuel Rail! Lol
My 1.4 Fiesta TDCI had a Diesel leak it smelled like paint when I had the air con on got it fixed it was a good car but now I have a Ford Focus 1.6 Petrol
Hello, i have a fuel leak coming from this area, but how can I tell the difference between return pipes leak and injector leak? Btw the car works perfectly fine, no fumes in the engine bay, no worrying noises.
@@pdunleavy1982 Thank You for quick reply, i guess i have to look for a set of return pipes. Should i look for original from Ford or aftermarket are good enough?
@@gdfhds970 I would go original from Ford. They’re a pain to get to so best to go original. Be careful with the little clips. They like to fly away. You might have to squeeze a few of them to tighten them up.
I spent all day fixing it, it does solve the problem and now the engine sound better, worth it. I dont have much experience but if you want to do it, you do it. Watch out for the clips, they're expensive (on the nozzles)
Any symptoms similar to juddering? I've been told I need to replace all 4 injectors from my 1.4 tdci fiesta which I find hard to believe so looking into literally everything else first.
@@pdunleavy1982 I would but it is finding which one is knackered. I took it to a delphi garage and they said an impedance test or something determined all 4. I'm guessing the only way to tell at this point is to go to another diesel specialist and ask for a print out of results or something?
@@theimaginativelad3491 is it intermittent? Mine was intermittent for a while then one of them went completely and threw up a fault code. You can still limp the car home on just 3. 4 new injectors is gonna cost a fortune.
@@pdunleavy1982 This video shows the issues better than I can explain. You can hear the juddering, which shows how it felt when under load and then limp mode eventually ua-cam.com/video/UFJ-UebfvK8/v-deo.html
@@theimaginativelad3491 Yeah, it seems the same as what happened to me. Throws up a temporary warning light on the dash. A round cog with a ! In the middle. I would try a different garage who will find the bad injector.
My god, everything is so cramped!
Getting the airbox off is the hardest part of this job lol
Thanks for posting. Have you by any chance replaced the copper washer injector seals. Was wondering if it's necessary to remove the fuel filter/lines ? Cheers
TB1M1
I didn’t replace the washers. But I think I could have got the injectors out with the fuel lines just pulled back out the way. Maybe tie them back with some rope.
Hi. Was it really necessary to take the rocker cover off, in order to fix the fuel leak? Can't you access those tiny pipes with the cover still on?
Grammar Nazi
Sorry about late reply. Yeah, I think it would be pretty impossible to do it without taking the cover off.
After i replaced my cracked leak off lines with genuine ford lines im getting tube from injector 4 popping off. I found that its a very easy to remove the hose from the fitting (manufacturers defect?). Replaced whole lines with one from ebay and now i had fitting on injector 4 coming off. Any advice whats going on? Im thinking could it be number 4 injector leaking and cousing higher pressure/flow on overflow side?
It might just need a new metal spring clip. It might be a bit stretched. Or squeeze your old one closed.
can anyone tell me where is the PCV valve is in this engine?
I tried so hard and didn't find any results
I don’t think diesel engines have a PCV valve.
Thanks a lot for the video brother. You have right hand!
Would I be able to take injector out at this end stage great video well said thanks
philip coughlan
Yeah, I think it would be easy enough to get the injector out at this point. I can’t see what else is in the way. I’ve never taken one out myself though.
Yes very simple just a 13 cm bolt holding injector clamp then they come out. Dont lever them or they can break. Just twist them and the come out. Clean off with carb cleaner or oven cleaner to get rid of carbon. Block the 4 inlet holes first though. Ping pong balls fit perfectly as you dont want to be dropping crap in there.
Does anyone know where the air intake for cold start spray is on these engines please?
rantzzz rantzzz
Just straight into the air intake pipe. You shouldn’t really need to use that stuff though. Your heater plugs must be knackered
hi do you need to remove the clips or just push it open s bit and pull pipe out
Think you can just push them back. It’s a long time since I did this job.
Cheers as don't look like clips would come out without removing injector as they pushed in from back
I changed these pipes. After some time leaking started again. Is it possible that injector pressure is displacing the oring? What might be the reason? It is the 3rd time I am changing these orings.
I’m not sure. Are they original Ford O rings? Maybe it’s bad fuel degrading the rubber. Make sure you fit the new ones with rubber grease.
I can’t seem to get the rocker cover back on as the o rings are preventing the cover from going all the way back into the intake manifold should I be easy or does it require a lot of effort, as I don’t want to apply too much pressure on the plastic
I think I cleaned up the O rings and put a bit of grease on them. It took a fair bit of force to push it down.
My ford fiesta 1.4 TDCI 11 plate goes into limp node at about 60 mph , and it went away once removed battery negative and cleared code.it happend again but befor this every time I put my foot down it would jerk back and kind of reduce speed.
Then it went into engine management issues, where only firing on three cylinders, I left it 24 hours and runs on for again but only at low speed for 10 minutes then goes bad .
I an suspecting shit injector.
Well I was going to do a fuel flow test and see what injectors were not perfoming correctly befor taking them out,
I could not believe the amount of stuff I had to remove just to get to the injectors clips never mind do the test ,by the time I got to where you show theres that much disconnected I had no way doing a fuel flow test,
so I am skipping that and giving them a pressure pop test/ and a puls test/and going to test the ohms on the bench / hopefully this will give me enougth to conclude which ones can go back after a propper clean.
I just hope I don`t have intermitton ones, that seem good but the electronic part plays up.as this will not show up on any test not even a scope as far as I know,
But what I would say beings Ive had to get this far just so for piece of mind `ill replace all copper washers all rubber o rings to injecters as they should be done once removed. then replace or flush through return hoses,replace o rings to ports, replace fuel filter / air filter/ clean EGR /
clean MAF sensor, test glow plugs and replace all 4 if one is bad as others will soon follow , new rocker gasket \ check all connectors and wires and check for cracked or split hoses, and check bolts that may of worked loose,
Then if I still have an issue I know these things that have been done caint be the issue, plus I should think when was the last time these were done,
It sounds like an injector problem to me. I would take them all out and get them tested. If one has failed I would consider replacing them all if you can afford it. They play up intermittently. It’s the electrical side that fails usually.
If anyone still comments on this, please can you let me know if there is a trick to getting the pipe back on. I have stripped down and taken the pipe off. But the new pipe isn't going on, looks like it has to push through to a click before I can then put the clips back on. I just can't get them to go
If I remember rightly. I put grease on them and pushed them in with a long nose pliers.
Can air from the fuel line back from injectors (small diameter tube with orings) prevent a easy start in the mornings?
Yes it can
Where can you source those fuel lines all I can find is the ones that lead to filter and have the hand pump on them (which I've been also advised to swap) I've got air in the lines (seen through the clearish plastic lines) and a duff egr which I tried cleaning but nothing, still got p0404. So new egr, and I'd like to do those lines aswell, but can't find them. Do you know the oem ref code?
ZeCalanga2391 they are the return lines from the injectors so they won’t cause air in your system. They will just cause a leak.
There’s lots of little O rings on this system so if one of those failed that could cause your air. I’m pretty sure you do see air bubbles in those clear lines anyway. Just try a new EGR and cleaning out the air cooler that it connects to.
I've fitted a new return pipe but for some reason number 4 pipe keeps popping out and i don't know y . Ive pushed it in all the way but it keeps popping out.
Stuart Smart I had the same problem on another fiesta. Pull out the metal clip and squeeze it a bit tighter. I think they get a bit stretched and don’t hold the fitting tight enough. You need a good pair of long needle nose pliers.
Hi sir Im ready to do mine ,but in my case its the injector, 3 With my injectors they don`t` have to be programmed for my engine I have been told,
I have a ford fiesta 1.4 TDCI zetec badge on the back but ford told me its a Duratorq engine ,But there`s no bleeding primer rubber bulb on my engine even though it looks like your engine, do you know why, mine is a MK6 2008
piece toyou the newer ones got rid of the bleeding bulb and you have to add one in to bleed. I’m not sure about the injectors. I’ve always been told they need to be programmed.
@@pdunleavy1982 I bought the primer kit today from internet, apparently the garage who specialise on injectors said i was lucky to have this type of engine no programming needed when placing a new injector in.
When we were looking at the engine I told him the error code came up saying open circuit on 3,
The error code said it was number 3 injector,
He said this engine, you count from right to left ,so injector 3 would be as follows 4321 when standing in front of ,engine.
Some thing to do with the way that particular country who help in the car production say that`s the way injectors get read with this model , I don`t think that`s the firing sequence I don`t know but its the way code shows as being the third one,
I am no machinic as you would of noticed I just like to research then do it my self, I like to learn but have a bad back issue so can`t hold a machinic job down,
I can’t get my manifold to sit right and can’t get the 2 10mm bolts inserted at the back just the 8 8mm on the top.. sounds like a tank
Jd Jd only just seen this. Did you get it sorted? It helps the grease the 4 big O rings at the back so they slide in a bit easier.
@@pdunleavy1982 yes I did thanks I put a little smear of grease on and I put a block of wood over manifold and knocked it down with a hammer 🔨
Hi
Could be this leaking cause problem from link?
ua-cam.com/video/reze1mivLzc/v-deo.html
Machine want start - after pumping with hand pump staring normally.
Hi all
I did change the sealer washer and I cleaned the injectors and new glow plug replaced and ventalited the air from the pump but the car won’t start.
Any tips please?
Make sure you have fully bled all the air out. Make sure all electrical connections are clean.
@@pdunleavy1982 thank you very much sir
Would this issue stop the car from starting? Looking to buy a no start project car which has air in the fuel line, owner has changed pick up pump.... probably a hole in the fuel line somewhere? Is this a common issue on the 1.4 tdci?
It’s the return line, so shouldn’t stop it from starting. I’ve got another video about the cam sensor not working. That would stop it from starting
@@pdunleavy1982 Didn't think it would, has air before filter, chap has primed and it wants to start but air comes back, obviously a leak in the fuel line somewhere, just wondered if they were prone to leaks in any particular place, rubbing through etc..?
@@jamesmacdonald3090 I think you can buy all the fuel lines and the prime pump and 1 big group of pipes off Ford. Lots of places it could be leaking. Lots of little O rings that could fail. You could try by passing all that and feed it diesel direct and see if it starts.
@@pdunleavy1982 Might just fit a non return valve after the filter if I can't find the leak. I have bought the car as chap had sorted all the previous MOT advisories and it still has a current MOT plus another set of wheels with good tyres, at £250 I can always scrap it. It amazes me how sellers don't list these things in their adverts?
I have a mazda 2 2004, which has a ford engine...
I replaced the fuel filter and fuel injector lines (as you show) I put it all back together and there's an even worse leak 🤷🏼♂️... Am I missing something?
I had one where the little metal clips that hold it into the injector had gone lose. I squeezed it tighter and it fixed the leak. Make sure all the connections have pushed all the way into the injector. Run the engine with the air filter housing off and you might see where the leak is.
@@pdunleavy1982
When I was putting the injector lines in they were a tight fit, with some long nose pliers and a little force they popped it, and the put the clips back in.
I'v got the air box off now, I can't seem to see where the leak is coming from, but there's fuel sat round that area.
All the clips and flush to the metal, no caps.
So could it be the metal clips holding it in place... Not holding it?
@@mikeb3315 I thought I had done it right but one of them kept popping out a couple of mm. It could possibly be the injector seal in the head. I think there’s a copper washer in there. I’ve never done that job though.
@@pdunleavy1982 I'll got someone coming back out to take it all apart again lol... I'll update you night if it all works 🤞🏽
Ps I watched a video about changing the injector seals... So maybe that's something to change.
Are these external injectors
Nathan Reid
I don’t know what you mean.
@@pdunleavy1982 These days cars have Direct injection where the injectors are in the cylinder head compared to the old days.
Nathan Reid
All injectors go into the cylinder head.
The difference is the new ones are electronically controlled.
My 1.4TDCi is hard to start in the mornings. How do I do?
First thing I would check is the glow plugs. Sometimes a good service helps. On these cars I think the glow plugs keep getting warm after the light goes out. Give it 20 seconds before you turn the engine over. Make sure you’ve got good diesel as well.
How much did you charge to fix this. exact same problem with mine just want an idea.
This is on my dads car so no charge. It’s probably 2-3 hrs work. Maybe quicker.
The pipes are about £20 from Ford
@@pdunleavy1982 Lol, I found the problem my-self but didn't have the time and a mechanic wanted to charge me 220 total with 70 for the pipe.
Great video, thank you, any chance you know where the fuel rail pressure sensor is on these engines? I've been told under the fuel filter housing but it doesn't look like the same part that can be bought..
I’m not sure where it is.
@@pdunleavy1982 found it 😊..
I had to dismantle half the bloody engine, it was positioned below the fuel filter, on the end of the elusive fuel Rail! Lol
My 1.4 Fiesta TDCI had a Diesel leak it smelled like paint when I had the air con on got it fixed it was a good car but now I have a Ford Focus 1.6 Petrol
What did you do to get it fixed? Think I've got the same problem
@@ryanmccrone8091 My local Garage had to clean the injectors etc
Hello, i have a fuel leak coming from this area, but how can I tell the difference between return pipes leak and injector leak? Btw the car works perfectly fine, no fumes in the engine bay, no worrying noises.
I would say it’s most likely the return pipes if there’s no performance issues.
@@pdunleavy1982 Thank You for quick reply, i guess i have to look for a set of return pipes. Should i look for original from Ford or aftermarket are good enough?
@@gdfhds970 I would go original from Ford. They’re a pain to get to so best to go original. Be careful with the little clips. They like to fly away. You might have to squeeze a few of them to tighten them up.
@@pdunleavy1982 Thank You for advice, Cheers.
Gonna replace this little thing now, my smels like diesel so bad and ive replaced the injector seals
I spent all day fixing it, it does solve the problem and now the engine sound better, worth it. I dont have much experience but if you want to do it, you do it. Watch out for the clips, they're expensive (on the nozzles)
Any symptoms similar to juddering? I've been told I need to replace all 4 injectors from my 1.4 tdci fiesta which I find hard to believe so looking into literally everything else first.
Just replace the injector that is knackered. I’ve done this on a few cars and it’s been fine. The other 3 had plenty of life in them.
@@pdunleavy1982 I would but it is finding which one is knackered. I took it to a delphi garage and they said an impedance test or something determined all 4. I'm guessing the only way to tell at this point is to go to another diesel specialist and ask for a print out of results or something?
@@theimaginativelad3491 is it intermittent? Mine was intermittent for a while then one of them went completely and threw up a fault code. You can still limp the car home on just 3. 4 new injectors is gonna cost a fortune.
@@pdunleavy1982 This video shows the issues better than I can explain. You can hear the juddering, which shows how it felt when under load and then limp mode eventually ua-cam.com/video/UFJ-UebfvK8/v-deo.html
@@theimaginativelad3491
Yeah, it seems the same as what happened to me. Throws up a temporary warning light on the dash. A round cog with a ! In the middle. I would try a different garage who will find the bad injector.
Were u from bro
Birminham