I like these type of lessons, it teaches you not only the workflow but also many little tricks and all the theory in action, Please make a series of these types of tutorials
Starting around 4:15 you use Alpha Range and Inpainting to create the rest of the pic to the edge. I tried this with an existing file and it won't work: I enlarged the canvas for a bleed with a transparent background (the image will print, and I can't simply enlarge the image to bleed as the text will go outside the safe area). The Alpha command apparently does not see the canvas the same way it does in your file, and thus will not select the transparent area; even when I select it, the Inpainting option is not available. Is there a way to make AP create this bleed for me using this method? Cloning and other methods will take too long, and I have about 15 files that this needs to be done to. I greatly appreciate your help and thank you in advance!
Some thoughts: Before doing this, ensure the layer is rasterised (Layer/Rasterise & Trim). A stronger alternative is Document/Flatten. Make sure you use Select/Alpha/Partially Transparent (not Transparent). Then Edit/Inpaint.
Hi I've been watching your tutorials for a while now and they're very useful. I do have one question. I've been trying to figure out a way to edit masks. For example using levels or any adjustment on a mask. Is it possible? Thanks.
It's a known limitation. Fudge to be able to do it: in Channels panel, right-click Mask Alpha, Create Greyscale layer. Ensure this new layer is above image. Reduce opacity so you can see image below. Edit the grayscale layer. Pull up opacity again. Right-click it and Rasterise to Mask. Then delete old mask and reposition edited mask to same position.
Wow that's a lot of work! I recently downloaded ON1. Their masking abilities are incredibly easy. I hope infinity makes some changes if they want to stay competitive.
Love the editing tutorial. I save them all from all of those presenting the great info related to AP. Two things about the image do concern me. I wonder why the image was taken with a shadow effect of some buildings (?) cast over the whole image and particularly over the painting in the background. Also, the choice of clothing take the eye to the red sweater and controls the view with the eye seldom being able to seek the subjects face. The eye will always go to the lightest and brightest area of the photograph which in a portrait ought to be the mask of the face. Due to size relationships also, the second area that the viewer is directed to is the painting which also diminishes the impact of the subjects face. Just a couple thoughts. Looking forward to many more of your tutorials which I thoroughly enjoy.
Great comment. Thanks! Keep them coming. Some rationale: The shadows were what attracted me, especially of bottles that subtly showed that this was a vintner. It also creates triangles, which are always nice. Yes, red does attract the eye and it's a large block. I could have done a colour change on it though I am always minded of time when doing videos. The red does pull the eye to the person, and then to the face, which is the key area of sharpness.
I use a Sony A7R2, which takes 42Mpx images. I use compressed RAW, with file size 40Mb. No problems. I use a big and chunky desktop with oodles of memory, disc space and processor power -- photo editing these days needs this!
Before my request, is there some way I can contribute for all your time, effort, and knowledge that you share? Also, is there a different way to send you a request or communicate? A Request: It would be of great help to see a tutorial on taking a pdf with a somewhat complicated background that the edges need to be recreated extending the edges a 1/4" on all sides for a bleed (for printing). (The poster/header text is too close to the edges to simply enlarge the whole image as that would make the text go outside of the safe area.) Some background edges I can clone, some edges I can stretch, but many I cannot easily recreate an edge extension. It would be great to see some different methods, but especially one that is quick yet somewhat accurate. I tried the Alpha command/Inpainting that you used, but unfortunately it did not work well for the image I was working on: A transparent ice-filled cup at a 45 degree angle bleeding off the lower left, and circular swirly lines running off the right side, with a solid brown background that has a (top) dark to (bottom) light gradient applied. I truly enjoy your tutorials and always look forward to learning from you! With much appreciation, Joey
Cheers, Joey. Best help is to spread the word. Getting known is always the hardest thing. You can contact me via changingminds.org, which I also write (follow the 'contact' link from any page). Inpainting is clever and sometimes amazing. Other times it just can't cope. To produce a picture that will go edge-to-edge with a crop I'd ensure the original had detail at the edges which can be cropped. You just then need to ensure the 'main' area is protected and the 'croppable' edge is where it needs to be.
@@inaffinityforaffinityphoto3220 thank you very much for your reply. Unfortunately, I have no control over the image I received from my client, and apparently he doesn't have much control either otherwise we would have bleeds on the thing like it's supposed to be, right :-) so I was trying to get a method that's quick but accurate for continuing the image a quarter of an inch on each side of the Border
This is masterly in both its content and delivery. You are an expert in explaining and demonstrating the nuances of editing so many thanks.
Very helpful as always, thanks for posting.
Great work, well explained...Thank You!
I learnt six new things in just this one video! Amazing!
Welcome back. I have missed your tutorials.
Terrific, as usual. Perhaps add a before and after at the very end. Back and forth a couple of times, pointing out what's been changed.
Good point. I do try to do this, but I don't always remember!
I like these type of lessons, it teaches you not only the workflow but also many little tricks and all the theory in action, Please make a series of these types of tutorials
I'll certainly keep adding these from time to time.
@@inaffinityforaffinityphoto3220 Thank you
Very informative, I always learn something in your great tutorials, thanks Dave!
Love 5-6 minutes series
Nice tutorial. I would be nice if you gave access to the image you are using for people to follow along.
Starting around 4:15 you use Alpha Range and Inpainting to create the rest of the pic to the edge. I tried this with an existing file and it won't work:
I enlarged the canvas for a bleed with a transparent background (the image will print, and I can't simply enlarge the image to bleed as the text will go outside the safe area). The Alpha command apparently does not see the canvas the same way it does in your file, and thus will not select the transparent area; even when I select it, the Inpainting option is not available. Is there a way to make AP create this bleed for me using this method? Cloning and other methods will take too long, and I have about 15 files that this needs to be done to.
I greatly appreciate your help and thank you in advance!
Some thoughts: Before doing this, ensure the layer is rasterised (Layer/Rasterise & Trim). A stronger alternative is Document/Flatten. Make sure you use Select/Alpha/Partially Transparent (not Transparent). Then Edit/Inpaint.
@@inaffinityforaffinityphoto3220 Thank you for your quick reply. Rasterizing did it! :)
You're awesome!
Keep up the great videos!
How do you get the screen you are showing in this video?
It's just the normal screen when you start with Affinity Photo. Or am I missing your question?
Hi I've been watching your tutorials for a while now and they're very useful. I do have one question. I've been trying to figure out a way to edit masks. For example using levels or any adjustment on a mask. Is it possible? Thanks.
It's a known limitation. Fudge to be able to do it: in Channels panel, right-click Mask Alpha, Create Greyscale layer. Ensure this new layer is above image. Reduce opacity so you can see image below. Edit the grayscale layer. Pull up opacity again. Right-click it and Rasterise to Mask. Then delete old mask and reposition edited mask to same position.
Wow that's a lot of work! I recently downloaded ON1. Their masking abilities are incredibly easy. I hope infinity makes some changes if they want to stay competitive.
Love the editing tutorial. I save them all from all of those presenting the great info related to AP. Two things about the image do concern me. I wonder why the image was taken with a shadow effect of some buildings (?) cast over the whole image and particularly over the painting in the background. Also, the choice of clothing take the eye to the red sweater and controls the view with the eye seldom being able to seek the subjects face. The eye will always go to the lightest and brightest area of the photograph which in a portrait ought to be the mask of the face. Due to size relationships also, the second area that the viewer is directed to is the painting which also diminishes the impact of the subjects face. Just a couple thoughts. Looking forward to many more of your tutorials which I thoroughly enjoy.
Great comment. Thanks! Keep them coming.
Some rationale: The shadows were what attracted me, especially of bottles that subtly showed that this was a vintner. It also creates triangles, which are always nice. Yes, red does attract the eye and it's a large block. I could have done a colour change on it though I am always minded of time when doing videos. The red does pull the eye to the person, and then to the face, which is the key area of sharpness.
What size photo files do you start with in Affinity? I am having trouble with Affinity handling my D850 photo files.
I use a Sony A7R2, which takes 42Mpx images. I use compressed RAW, with file size 40Mb. No problems. I use a big and chunky desktop with oodles of memory, disc space and processor power -- photo editing these days needs this!
Before my request, is there some way I can contribute for all your time, effort, and knowledge that you share?
Also, is there a different way to send you a request or communicate?
A Request: It would be of great help to see a tutorial on taking a pdf with a somewhat complicated background that the edges need to be recreated extending the edges a 1/4" on all sides for a bleed (for printing).
(The poster/header text is too close to the edges to simply enlarge the whole image as that would make the text go outside of the safe area.)
Some background edges I can clone, some edges I can stretch, but many I cannot easily recreate an edge extension. It would be great to see some different methods, but especially one that is quick yet somewhat accurate. I tried the Alpha command/Inpainting that you used, but unfortunately it did not work well for the image I was working on: A transparent ice-filled cup at a 45 degree angle bleeding off the lower left, and circular swirly lines running off the right side, with a solid brown background that has a (top) dark to (bottom) light gradient applied.
I truly enjoy your tutorials and always look forward to learning from you!
With much appreciation, Joey
Cheers, Joey. Best help is to spread the word. Getting known is always the hardest thing. You can contact me via changingminds.org, which I also write (follow the 'contact' link from any page).
Inpainting is clever and sometimes amazing. Other times it just can't cope. To produce a picture that will go edge-to-edge with a crop I'd ensure the original had detail at the edges which can be cropped. You just then need to ensure the 'main' area is protected and the 'croppable' edge is where it needs to be.
@@inaffinityforaffinityphoto3220 thank you very much for your reply.
Unfortunately, I have no control over the image I received from my client, and apparently he doesn't have much control either otherwise we would have bleeds on the thing like it's supposed to be, right :-) so I was trying to get a method that's quick but accurate for continuing the image a quarter of an inch on each side of the Border