Nice to see a Real Sword still wandering around. 😊 Some suggestions, just in case it helps: - For a 455mm inner barrel, you need 80-90% of air volume in the cylinder. A Type 1 cylinder or a type 0 (full volume, no port) would be more appropiate. If the cylinder air volume is less than that, the bb will stil be in the barrel when the piston impacts the cylinder head. That means two problems: The pneumatic system will not be in optimal performance (You´ll need a stronger spring), and the impact of the piston on the cylinder head may move your gun before the bb has gone out of the barrel, causing some level of inaccuracy. - Adjusting the AoE decreases the piston travel. This means less time to accelerate. I wouldn´t say "don´t do it". I would do it too, but keep this in mind, because there are more things that will add up to this problem. - Short stroking will also decrease the piston acceleration time. You´ll need an even more strong spring. If you watch the back of the gearbox and the original piston, you will see that you can use a full piston just by cutting a bit of plastic at the back of it, on it´s upper section. The gearbox has got a window in it´s back to allow the teeth rack of the piston to go further back. No need to make such a drastic short stroking. - If the spring is very strong, it could end up breaking your gearbox. That would be a big problem, since it would be very difficult to find a spare gearbox shell. I would suggest to radius the corners of the cylinder place of the gearbox. I would also suggest to try to optimize everything so you can use the weakest spring possible to get the same fps. This will extend the life of your gearbox.
What I would do: - Radius gearbox. - Correct AoE 50% (That´s enough) - Avoid short stroke by modifying the piston just as the original one, or short stroke 1 tooth (2 maximum). This would help keeping a good cylinder-barrel air volume ratio and enough piston travel to allow the piston to accelerate as much as possible. - Install a Type 1 or type 0 cylinder. If you want to keep the cylinder you show on the video, then you could change the inner barrel for a shorter one. 360mm would be Ok for that cylinder. I´d rather change the cylinder though.
Cheers guys thanks for the pointers. If I get around to it, I will put some of your advice into practice. I am having accuracy problems. Power and consistency are fine at the moment.
Well, then let me tell you: If you suspect the hop chamber is not working fine, the Real Sword one is perfectly fine. And it doesn´t really matter it´s made of plastic. In fact, you could ask yourself: If I fall to the ground over my gun and something has to break, what do I want to break? The hop chamber, or the magazine? Plastic hop up chambers have more advantages than people think, and the RS ones work perfectly. I am an old airsofter. I am not familiar with maple leaf hop buckings. For good accuracy, what I use is Guarder silicone transparent hop buckings. They give very good and stable hop effect. The only problem with those is they cause double feeding in AK´s. I did solve that problem on my own, but the solution requires some work. My secondary choice are G&G green hop buckings. They produce very good hop effect, and do not cause double feeding. Just in case you are curious, here´s how I solve the problem (My 6 AK´s have Guarder buckings inside): ua-cam.com/video/sBhWZbt18W0/v-deo.html (Use english subs. They are not perfect, but you´ll get the point)
Nice to see a Real Sword still wandering around. 😊
Some suggestions, just in case it helps:
- For a 455mm inner barrel, you need 80-90% of air volume in the cylinder. A Type 1 cylinder or a type 0 (full volume, no port) would be more appropiate. If the cylinder air volume is less than that, the bb will stil be in the barrel when the piston impacts the cylinder head. That means two problems: The pneumatic system will not be in optimal performance (You´ll need a stronger spring), and the impact of the piston on the cylinder head may move your gun before the bb has gone out of the barrel, causing some level of inaccuracy.
- Adjusting the AoE decreases the piston travel. This means less time to accelerate. I wouldn´t say "don´t do it". I would do it too, but keep this in mind, because there are more things that will add up to this problem.
- Short stroking will also decrease the piston acceleration time. You´ll need an even more strong spring. If you watch the back of the gearbox and the original piston, you will see that you can use a full piston just by cutting a bit of plastic at the back of it, on it´s upper section. The gearbox has got a window in it´s back to allow the teeth rack of the piston to go further back. No need to make such a drastic short stroking.
- If the spring is very strong, it could end up breaking your gearbox. That would be a big problem, since it would be very difficult to find a spare gearbox shell. I would suggest to radius the corners of the cylinder place of the gearbox. I would also suggest to try to optimize everything so you can use the weakest spring possible to get the same fps. This will extend the life of your gearbox.
What I would do:
- Radius gearbox.
- Correct AoE 50% (That´s enough)
- Avoid short stroke by modifying the piston just as the original one, or short stroke 1 tooth (2 maximum). This would help keeping a good cylinder-barrel air volume ratio and enough piston travel to allow the piston to accelerate as much as possible.
- Install a Type 1 or type 0 cylinder. If you want to keep the cylinder you show on the video, then you could change the inner barrel for a shorter one. 360mm would be Ok for that cylinder. I´d rather change the cylinder though.
Cheers guys thanks for the pointers. If I get around to it, I will put some of your advice into practice. I am having accuracy problems. Power and consistency are fine at the moment.
Well, then let me tell you: If you suspect the hop chamber is not working fine, the Real Sword one is perfectly fine. And it doesn´t really matter it´s made of plastic. In fact, you could ask yourself: If I fall to the ground over my gun and something has to break, what do I want to break? The hop chamber, or the magazine?
Plastic hop up chambers have more advantages than people think, and the RS ones work perfectly.
I am an old airsofter. I am not familiar with maple leaf hop buckings. For good accuracy, what I use is Guarder silicone transparent hop buckings. They give very good and stable hop effect. The only problem with those is they cause double feeding in AK´s.
I did solve that problem on my own, but the solution requires some work.
My secondary choice are G&G green hop buckings. They produce very good hop effect, and do not cause double feeding.
Just in case you are curious, here´s how I solve the problem (My 6 AK´s have Guarder buckings inside):
ua-cam.com/video/sBhWZbt18W0/v-deo.html
(Use english subs. They are not perfect, but you´ll get the point)