Solenoid Testing, Function and Replacement
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- www.wellsve.com/ www.wellsve.com/custom_searche... This video demonstrates how a typical starter solenoid functions, focusing on the Ford design. It takes you step by step through the testing and replacement procedures.
"The information presented in this program is based on a specific diagnostic case and might not directly apply to the vehicle you are repairing. We do not represent or warrant that the information presented is complete or error free. Please take all safety precautions. We disclaim any and all liability for losses, injuries or damages in connection with your repair." - Авто та транспорт
"....needs to be replaced......" not ".....needs replaced.....". That was a joy to hear. Thanks for the video. Still useful after all these years!
I'm not a newbie, but still ended up watching your entire video because it was so well put together. Great job!
As a DIY newbie, I think this video is highly educational and very well done. I like it when you included all the elements required - the video, the real sound, 3D animations and the real work being done. You delivered a lot under just 7 minutes. Thank you and congratulations.
A
I.
Aaa at aa
Mark you are the first ever man to read our post and give us and idea of our problems.
Thank you very much for sharing you knowledge.
Never changed anything on my car and today I grew the balls with your on point video! Thank you lad 🤝
Thank you for the kind words ... very happy we could help you.
My Best,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wow thank you for the kind words. We do put thought into these and try to answer the questions before they are asked.
Thank you again, your comment means a lot to us!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. Happy we could help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the informative video! I learned quite a bit, since I am incredibly uneducated when it comes to automotive electronics.
Best video yet on diagnosing starter troubles!
LA-pro , good and professional video, clear, pin point accuracy throughout! Again great video guys
+John g Thanks for the kind words! Check back often we are putting up new videos every other week! If you go over to our website you can subscribe and get an email every time we have another class. www.wellsve.com/wells_tech.html
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
I mean from youtube channel. You are allways giving us a solution to our problems.
super incredible video, I know
electricity very well and i still learned alot. I cant wait to watch all your videos.
very helpful and informative information. thank you! I hope this may help me in fixing my own car myself!
Hey great news! Thanks for letting me and everyone else know!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@lafemmetragic Thanks for the feedback, very happy we could help you!
Take care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@dosteddaram Thanks for the feedback, very happy we could help!
Take Care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. I try my best to help everyone.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Micheal vs jason
Mark replaced the crankshaft position sensor and is up and running. Thanks for your help!
I am humbled ... all I can say is Thank You!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Disconnect the "S" terminal and connect a test light to it .. like we did in the video. Try to crank the engine and the light should come on bright. If it doesn't it means either you have a problem with the wire to the "S" terminal, neutral safety switch or ignition switch issue.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Best out there so far..i know this stuff ..just like to see what others are up to ..gr8 vid ..wish I was into making these but just learned to text a year ago ..old school.yup..
Thanks for watching! Texting is the first step, up next...video production! :)
Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
Strait to the point and clear thank you! Just wanted to make sure that did don’t get my wires crossed. Cheers 🎉
6. If the switches are showing a valid position combination, attempt to move the shift motor with power and ground applied to the Yellow (YL) and Orange (OR) wires of the shift motor to make it move completely to the 4L or 2H positions, and then recheck the indicated position of the position switches on the flat 8-terminal connection.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@phisherben You are very welcome, it is our pleasure to help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I understand exactly ... thank you for the update! Glad you found the issue. Sometimes lessons are tough to swallow.
Take Care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
You may have what is called a parasitic draw. To check remove one battery cable and connect an amp meter between the cable and post on the battery. Let is sit for about a half hour and read the meter. If it reads more than 50 mamps, you have a draw. Leave the meter hook up and start removing fuses. When you find the right circuit the meter will drop. Then reconnect the fuse and start unplugging what ever is in that circuit.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the lightning fast response! I think you'd be right, however I cannot find the starter either...
Monitor check engine light operation. If it comes on the PCM powers and grnds are OK. if not go there first. if it comes on crank the engine, as soon as the engine starts to turn, the check engine light MUST go out. if not go to the crank sensor and check for about .7v AC output at normal crank speed.
The crankshaft position sensor has a very high failure rate on your vehicle.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
4. If the LED does not illuminate, check the power and ground circuits of the remaining 8-terminal pigtail connector before condemning the shift module.
5. If the module passes self test, check the resistance between the White/Yellow (WT/YL) wire of the 8-terminal flat connector, and the next 4 wires down the connector row, one-at-a-time for indications of open and closed readings that will identify the position of the shift motor.
Thanks ... the blast from our plant to space!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you very much for your video. It is very useful and understandable, even for non-mechanic folks like me.
@jiujitsukiller9 Thank you, makes us feel like we are doing the right thing with comments like yours!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@val0555 I suggest checking the starter relay. They have a lot of problems with them being intermittent.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle electronics
It is recommended to replace the solenoid with the starter because, if the solenoid has some time on it, it more likely to stick in the "on" position and keep the starter engaged while the engine is running. This would in turn ruin the new starter.
Thank you for the kind words, they me a lot to us,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. If you ever need any assistance on vehicle electronics just let us know, we are here to help the best we can!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Great video. I replaced the starter solenoid in my 1998 F-150. Turns out not to be a problem, but was a problem because it exploded into a thousand pieces when I tried to remove the first nut. Now, it seems like there is a break in the "S" terminal wire. I can't seem to find out how to replace that wire to fix it. Some days it starts, some days it won't. Very frustrating.
The first thing you want to do is check for voltage on the "S" terminal of the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position. If you have constant power there, then turn "on" your headlights and try to start it. If the headlights go out it means either the battery is going dead or you have a bad connection on the battery. If you can jump the solenoid and it cranks, the solenoid is working.
Let me know how it goes,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Well thats a good sign. Does the solenoid click when you try to start the engine? If it does it means it is working. Then check the cable to the starter from the solenoid. You can also try connecting a jumper cable from the solenoid to the starter. If it then cranks the cable is defective. Also check if the wire going to the "S" terminal on the solenoid is getting hot when trying to crank the engine.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
It is typically on the side close to the radiator. There may be a heat shield over the top of it. Look where the transmission meets the engine.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle Electronics
thank you. very simple to understand video.
@MrMentalbreakdown00 No apologies necessary. I like the way you think and please never be ashamed of a question. Its the ones who don't like questions I am worried about. This is a wonderful subject of debate. In my humble opinion on a Ford system i think you are correct. I think it has been called a solenoid for so long no one questions it any longer. However, on other makes it would have to be called a solenoid. I am very open for comments on this one.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
When you turn the key to the start position there must be 12 volts on the wire going to the "S" terminal. Disconnect the wire there and see if you have the 12 volts with the key turned to start. If you don't, check the fuses and the ignition switch.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
What if you get 10v at the signal wire with key turned on and test light lit up?
@drm315 Thank you for the kind words. Most of the music in our videos comes from stock20.com.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@sonico73 Try turning your headlights "on", then try to start it. If the headlights stay bright, check that power is getting to the starter. If it is chances are you need to check the starter. Try tapping it with a hammer while trying to crank it. If that works you need a starter. If the headlights dim while trying to crank, it means a poor connection or bad battery.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. Most of the music in our videos comes from stock20.com.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
1. Access the 4WD shift module and disconnect the 5-pin and 8-pin flat connectors.
2. Perform self-test of the 4WD shift module by pushing the small button on the module and looking at the activity of the Light Emitting Diode (LED) on the module with the ignition switch in the Run position. A pass of the self-test will result in 4 flashes of the LED.
3. If the LED illuminates and stays on, replace the 4WD shift module.
Great video! Helped me diagnose my F-150's starter relay. I understand that this vieeo was from when Reagan was president but its so blurry i had to watch it 7-8 times to really see where the red lead is supposed to be connected when testing the various terminals. I didnt want to connect the test light incorrectly and short out the ignition wiring or something else.
Thanks for the response Mark. I tried keeping the headlights on while trying to crank and the headlights remained on. What next?
Thank you! Great video.
Thanks!
~Mike
You should have 12 volts on both sides of the solenoid when it is activated. Try disconnecting the starter cable and see then. If you have 12 volts on both sides at that time, you have a bad cable to the starter, poor connection on that cable, a bad ground on the starter or block or a bad starter. The NSW is before the solenoid. If the solenoid is clicking (activating) the NSW is ok.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Yes it is very possible! Take the starter into AutoZone and have them test it.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thanks brother, well done. My problem solved thankyou.
thank you for responding. The battery is full and and almost new, can the starter be fried or "stuck"?
@rkrishnasekar Thank you for the kind words. Why did you remove your comment, it was much appreciated.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I believe it is on top of the starter.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@trungdtbk It is our pleasure. If you have a video you would like to see, or you need repair diagnostic information be sure to let me know.
Mark Hicks
Wells Manufacturing L.P.
Turn the headlights "on" and try to start it. If the headlights go out when you try to crank the engine, it means either a low battery, cable or most common a bad connection on the battery.
Let me know,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@evils1z28 Thanks for the kind words.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle Electronics
It sounds like either you have a low battery or a defective cable. When a solenoid just does a series of clicks it means you do not have enough amperage / voltage to hold it "on". Hope this helps!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thanks, I think that's it!
Great clear video Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
Either you have a bad starter, negative cable or connection on negative cable. I would first connect a jumper cable from the engine block or better yet the starter housing and to the negative post on the battery. If the starter now works, check all connections from starter to battery negative. If it still will not spin, chances are the starter needs to be replaced.
Stay in touch and let everyone know what you find please.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wow thank you for the kind words! Our videos are done by master techs. No editors, shooters just techs. We do our best, your words mean a lot to us!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
good info , thanks from Middle east
Great video, Question...I have 12v going in but 5.94v output of the same coil. I ordered a new coil but was wondering if there could be another issue. Getting same voltage to the starter.
Hey Trance, thanks for watching! If one side is 12v and the other side less than 12, then you have a voltage drop across the solenoid....time for a new one.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
The solenoid does a single click when you try to start the engine. So I connected a jumper cable to the large post on the starter (key in "off" position, of course) and connected the other end to the "s" terminal and the starter cranked. Then I tried a jumper cable from the battery positive post to the "s" terminal and again the starter cranked (a similar test, I know). So I'm guessing the wire from the "s" post on the solenoid down to the push on fitting on the starter is bad?
Got a question for you Mark! Do you NEED to have the positive cable from alternator to starter solenoid fused? Does it have to have a "fuseable link"?
Hi mark, I was wondering if you could give a possible insight on a car issue. I have a 1994 Honda accord. The car wouldn't crank when I turned the key, it was just silent. I took the battery and starter to autozone and they tested good. Replaced the main relay. Also the fuses are good. Fuel pump sounds like its working. Any insight would be helpful thanks in advance.
Oh also battery cables seem fine
Check the Black/White wire at the automatic transmission gear position switch located underneath the shifter.
If no power to the Black/White wire at the automatic transmission gear selector position switch, check the ignition switch.
If there is power at the Black/White wire, check to see if the power is going through the switch and to the starter.
If power is coming out of the switch on the Black/White wire, check for an open wire or poor connection.
Let us know how it goes,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
It sounds to me like either the battery is defective or the charging system is not working. Start the engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery, you should be charging 14.5 volts with the headlights on, give or take a little.
Let me know,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@DJSkippy If you have any questions, just let me know I will do my best to help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I have a 2001 ford expedition 5.4L. Im having a problem with what i think would be the starter solenoid. What it does is, i go to turn the key and it dies as if there isn't enough power getting to the starter to start it. If i jump it at the solenoid it starts just fine. My battery is fine and my alternator is fine. Please help if you can?? Thanks
First check if there is battery voltage on the connector going to the "s" terminal with it disconnected and the key turned "off". If you do not have voltage, turn the key to the start position and check again. It should only have voltage when the key is turned to start. If you do have voltage, either the switch or the relay could cause this. When you get to this point let me know and I will tell you what to do next.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
2004 Grand Am engine turns slowly. I thought it was the battery, battery tested good at auto zone with good cranking amps. Tried again, had someone crank engion, again turned serpentine belt slowely then I smelled smoke, and starter was very hot. The starter came out but I couldn't get the solenoid mounted above it out. Is it possible the starter (hot) is bad and the solenoid is ok,
It could be one of the above. What is the year, make, model and engine size? I can then tell you the easiest way to test and most common cause for the issue.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I have 12 v on battery side of solenoid and only 7 volts on starter side while attempting to start. Does neutral safety switch come into play before or after starter side of solenoid. What should voltage be on starter side of solenoid.
It could be. Here is something to try: with the key in the start position try lightly tapping the starter. If the engine cranks at that time, you know the starter is defective.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells Vehicle Electronics. My
Nice! Thank you for sharing
Excelente tutorial! I appreciate this video thank you for sharing your knowledge
Helpful, a good add-on may be the difference between solenoid with 4 post, 2 large and two small, between 2 large and 1 small. Thanx for sharing.
Thanks for watching Lindsey!
Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
so if i take the black connector off of the solenoid and bridge that connector it will start right up...if I hook it back up to that solenoid it wont start...doesnt even make 1 click noise. but if while that connector is on there is i bridge the 2 studs that they are bolted to with a metal wrench it starts right up. is that a bad solenoid? i just changed it 3 yrs ago its probably got less than 10000 miles on it. all that voltage testing looks confusing but i guess im gonna have to figure that bad boy out. any info is greatly appreciated thank you
Thanks John Goodman, that was very informative
Hey J. Hinson, thanks for watching! You're right, it does sound like John Goodman :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Hey Mark! Great video! So I replaced the relay on the fender and I'm still getting a "single click" problem which (as you mentioned) indicates the problem could be elsewhere. Where should I start?
Check the starter wires and battery cables and ensure the battery has a proper charge.
Hey Mark, I have an issue with a 2003 Hundai Accent 1.5 manual. It has worked fine all along, and was just left sitting for a short period, a few weeks, now it won't start. The battery is fine, as is the starter relay, when you hit the ignition the starter can be heard spinning fine, it just seems like it's simply not extending the gear to mesh with the ring gear to crank the engine. Sound like just a solenoid issue to you? There is no unusual noise, just the starter spinning away contently.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord that has been experiencing faults for about 3 month now. It all started when i left my lights on one day and had to jump start. Since i tend to often do that, after that jump start, my car started to have a click when i yank the ignition to start it, then the second yank would turn it on.First thought was the starter, but then the starter was replaced 2012, so i was doubtful. The car had survived with the start up problem until yesterday. I try to yank it for about 5 minutes and it would get a feeling just off the edge to start but not enough power.Now it completely died, no sound at all. I jump start my battery and left it on for about 20 minutes, turned it off and on a few times after that, and it was ok. Woke up today and the entire car has dim lights, there is a short rattle noise in the first yank, follow by no sound at all. Not sure what my next move is after watching all these informal videos, any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Thank you!
super helpful Thanks!
I have a 2004 Kia Sedona. Turn the key to ON and all accessories and lights work fine...turn to crank vehicle and nothing. Took starter out had it tested at AutoZone tested good. Battery is good. Tried to jump vehicle off to get it started nothing. All fuses are good. Changed out ignition switch still nothing. Any ideas?
Stacey, this could be caused by a bad starter relay maybe. On your Sedona instead of a solenoid mounted on the side of the engine compartment, it is actually attached to the starter. I would inspect for power to the S terminal. Maybe time to have a shop test this thing?
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
@mybasshas7strings Hello, I am not sure why the starter would make a rattling sound at mid temperatures, but that sure does not rule it out. I would have a friend turn the key and I would go under the hood to try to pinpoint the problem. Put your hand on the starter, feel and listen to see if it is the cause. Id you are listening by the engine you kust might be able to detect the problem.
Let me know how it turns out of if you have any further questions,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
The coil could be the cause, but it is rare. If you can, check for an injector pulse. You will need a noid light to do this. You can borrow one at your local AutoZone store. If you do not have an injector pulse, chances are your crankshaft sensor is defective.
Let me know what you find,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you i will try that.
If the starter is spinning but not engaging the flywheel. Either the bendix drive in the starter is bad or there are teeth missing or wore on the flywheel. Pull the starter and inspect the flywheel. If looks good have the starter tested and probably replaced.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I've lookd EVERYWHERE for the starter solenoid in my 1988 Toyota Supra mk3. Any idea where it is?
I just replaced my starter on my 2002 f150 4.2 6cyl... I thought it was the starter because it would start after hammering the starter a few times... Advance Auto also said it is for sure the starter. After replacing the starter it started the next day it would not turn. A friend took a screwdriver and touching the battery and starter connections and vehicle started. Is the solenoid bad or is it something else?
Temujin, it could be the starter solenoid. Use a test light and test it just like we show in the video. If you have any more questions let me know!
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
Unfortunately, I beleive the tester would most likely cost more than the solenoid. I think I will just replace the solenoid which cost about $20.
Alright, sounds good. If you need any more help let me know!
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
Hi, Ive an e39 Bmw 1999, Was driving perfect but today I go to drive it and turn the key all lights come on buy nothing else happens... no click and no crank? Any ideas before i bring to garage?
Mark I checked for spark on the 1998 Ford Explorer and don't seem to have any. Could the ignition coil be a cause for this problem.
Mark can you tell me where is crankshaft position sensor is located on my Explorer 1998.
Tried spraying starter fluid in throttle body would not start. Could you tell me where to start for spark. It drove home one evening and later that night just would not turn over.
Hey, i took out the starter and it was stuck, got it loose and now it works great, wierd!
What if my battery will charge fine and it starts fine at first try but after i turn off the car the battery losses voltage and it clicks like on your video. i replaced the old alternator before i had this problem. I have checked all the terminals and cables and all are good. It seems like their might be a short circuit.
I have a vt 650 shadow, and i have volts in and out of the solenoid but when i click the start button the solenoid just clicks and no volts out, this happens when the handlebar button is off AND on. Dont know if you could help me with this cuz its a mc, but any ideas would help!
So, if the solenoid starts when bridging the main connectors, will not start by key but the key wire is showing signs of power, does that mean the solenoid needs replaced?