AC Contactor Buzzing
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 жов 2019
- Replacing a buzzing contactor
Welcome to my Apartment Maintenance Channel, On this channel I bring you along on service calls, repairs, installs, and everything that a Apartment Maintenance Tech does on a day to day basis. Subscribe for more videos
Music: www.bensound.com - Навчання та стиль
Thank you sooo much for posting this. I replace my run capacitor on my unit. As I was doing so the red wire came off. I wasn’t sure what post to hook it back to on the contractor. It’s a very short wire. Fortunately because of your video it made it easy. In a minute my ac unit is working again. Thank you for posting.
No problem! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching Doug & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Thank you so much for posting this. My husband is always out to sea with the navy and this sound on my hvac unit just came up and I watched a video and I can do it on my own! Thank you!
Glad the video helped out. Thanks for watching Alexis & subscribe to the channel 👍
Your husband is an awesome and lucky man and let him know that some youtube dude says thank you for his service to our great nation and thank you ma'am as a spouse of a service member who is supportive and who stands for your marriage. thank you. Praying for you and yours ma'am.
Thanks for the info.............$20 dollar contactor with this INFO saved the day
Awesome! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching Mike & do me a favor and hit that Subscribe button! 👍
I joined your site on the advice of Lex.
Welcome Larry! 👍
Inside my 240 box there are 2 heavy duty fuses. The contactor is making this identical sound and looks much older and rusted. I think in my case it is feeding power back somehow through those fuses blowing them. I replaced the fuses turned it on and immediately heard a pop and the contactor only had one like charged to 120v and the other was dead.
That's because it blew the fuse on one leg of 120 volts. So there's probably a short or grounded wire somewhere. A good place to start looking (With the power off of course!) After removing the power from the disconnect, remove the access panel on the condenser to expose the contactor, capacitor etc.... Right below the contactor (probably to the right) you'll see wires coming through a small hole from inside the condenser, slightly lift those wires up & look at the bottom of those wires & see if any of them rubbed the wire insulation off to the point where bare wire is exposed & is touching the metal cabinet where the wires come through the hole. If you see a rubbed spot, bare wire, or black spot, chances are that's your issue. If you don't see that, follow those wires from looking down into the condenser & see if any of them are against any copper tubing which will also cause a rub out & cause the fuse to blow. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Paul & Subscribe to the channel 👍
The "Buzz"ards must have been circling that one 🤪👍
Lots of "Buzz"ards around here for sure!
@@ApartmentMaintenance Hi do you have a video about a mini-split unit doing the humming sound? thanks
@@sylvainh2o No sir, I don't. Is the system running when you hear the noise? Or is it trying to start? It's obviously hard to diagnose something over text, but I'll try to help the best I can with what little information I have. You can definitely check the contactor if you know what your doing. Of course always shut the power off before opening up any panels on your equipment, & have a clamp meter handy to check ohms, voltage, amps, inrush, etc...If you don't have the right tools or don't feel comfortable, call an HVAC professional to look at your system. Thanks for watching Sly Bob & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance HI sir, my minisplit unit started to have a humming noise which happens at intervals around every 2minutes for like 10 seconds ( inside the house) . It happens both when running but also continues while turned off for a while. My unit is only 3 years old and I have no idea which part would be the problem to order. Thank you for your videos and the help you provide to so many! Have a nice day!
@@sylvainh2o No problem Bob, I hope you get your issue resolved, & thanks for watching. 👍
Quick question, i was looking the on the video, when you conect the red and black wires, whit the screw, seems like was on the left side red, and right side black, ?? Im a little confused thanks in advance!
That's the high voltage wires coming into the contactor which each leg is 120 volts & it doesn't matter which wire goes where as they both are 120 volts. I know when I put them back on the new contractor I put them on the opposite of the way they were on the old contractor but it doesn't make any difference. Good catch & great question! Thanks for watching Federico & Subscribe to the channel bro 👍
What is the part number for the switch you installed, Thankyou for sharing this video!
Hey Dale, the contactor in the video was a single pole, 24v coil, 30 amp contactor. If you need one for your system I would recommend searching your model # & finding the correct part. There's plenty that look just like it but are rated at different voltage & amps. You want to make sure your getting the correct part for your system. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
Very helpful! Is the red side on top of the contactor usually always the common side? I hooked up a 5-2-1 compressor saver and am stumped.
Technically there's not a common side, I was calling it that cause the short red wire that goes from the top of the contactor to the "C" terminal on the capacitor is the common terminal on the capacitor. Here's how I recall the 5-2-1 is insalled, the Yellow with the stripes goes to the Herm terminal on the capacitor, Red to the "C" Common terminal on the capacitor, & the Black wire to the top of the contactor. Obviously I don't know what type of system you have or if any wires got switched around etc...but there should be instructions with it. Thanks for watching S Desai & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Ya I learned that the red wire (top of contactor) to the common terminal (capacitor) means it's the run side and the black wire side is the common side of the contactor (normal cases in single pole). My red wire from the 5-2-1 is connected to CPT terminal on Amrad cap. Sound right?
@@sdesai4047 Do you have the turbo 200 capacitor?
@@ApartmentMaintenance Not the turbo but an Amrad 55/5. It has a CPT. Wanted to make sure I connected it properly
Great video! One of my female quick connects broke on a thicker black wire so I can't attach it back to T2 terminal. Do I need to crimp on a 10-8 gauge yellow quick connect or will a 18-14 be ok? A specific type I'm looking for? They're all a standard width of .250" correct? Thanks so much!
Depends what size wire you have. The female connectors come 12-10awg which are the yellow ones, then you have the blue ones which are 18-14awg I believe, & red is 22-18awg. Obviously it's not going to be a red one. One you strip back your wire see which connector fits best & crimp it on. Thanks for watching R Graz & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thanks so much for the RAPID reply!!
@@rgraz4929 No problem!
@@ApartmentMaintenance It was a 14 gauge wire with a beefy black insulation. Fixed it with an old terminal connector I had laying around. Now I can return the yellows ones I bought at HD. The connector that broke off the T2 goes to the compressor. Now my 35 year old AC is cooling again!!
@@rgraz4929 Awesome! 🔧
Nice video.
Is it OK or perhaps better to upgrade to a dual contactor ?
If it came with a single pole contactor, then just go back with that. That's what the system was designed with, best to stick with that. Thanks for watching Shade tree 👍 Subscribe to the channel if you haven't already 💪
they use wires that are always on for a crankcase heater, so you should go with a single pole one if that was what the unit came with. I guess you could move wires around to keep the crank case heater on but it just complicates things right?
Will a bad contactor cause the outside fan to stay running all day. I turn off thermostat for hours and fan stays on and unplugged thermostat and fan still on outside and occasionally has a loud humm
If the contactor is stuck on, but the compressor would be on as well. Unless you have a bad capacitor or bad fan motor. You can also have a short in the wiring somewhere as well as a bad fan motor. There's plenty of things it could be. Hard to say without seeing it in person. Thanks for watching Cameron & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Outstanding, direct instruction. Would be nice to hear an explanation of the humming, but not necessary. You might invest in a tripod for your camera though, so you can work with two hands. Lots of UA-camrs have this problem.
Appreciate that Robert! I recently got a GoPro & a tripod that I will be using in the near future. In the case of the humming, I believe it's something to do with the coil or the magnet, but not certain on that. They are a cheap part to replace & once you hear them chatter or hum it's good to replace them before they fail. Thanks for watching Robert & hope your Subscribed 👍👍
How can you tell and test if the buzzing is caused by contactor or capacitor without removing either? Fan and compressor not turning. Thanks.
You can have the thermostat set to cooling and go to the outside condenser and pull the disconnect which will kill the high voltage & still allow the low voltage to the contactor & if you still hear the buzzing sound then you know it's the contactor. But just cause it's buzzing doesn't mean the contactor is bad. I just posted a new video where I check the contactor & capacitor, you can watch that video to see how I test both. Thanks for watching RNT & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Hi!
Where is a good place to buy a/c parts reasonably?
Sorry for the delay on my response, I didn't see your comment until now. You would have to have a EPA certification or a business license to purchase AC parts at any hvac supply house. Lowes or Home Depot doesn't sell hvac parts. Otherwise your best bet might be to find some place online, just be careful where you buy from to make sure it's quality parts & legit. Thanks for watching Picasso! Subscribe to the channel.
I've been struggling to understand how this noise was coming out of my compressor. It's such a victory just to hear that all too familiar noise and have a really good suspicion that I've got the same problem.
Yep, more than likely it's the contactor. Cheap fix & you shouldn't have that noise anymore. Of course that's if that's the noise your hearing. Hopefully for your sake that's all it is. Thanks for watching Daniel & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Just to follow up on this a bit, I noticed while poking around that the AC disconnect (pull type) is stuck so I can't pull it out to disconnect. Some Googling and reasoning has me thinking this could be creating an electrical problem that could either cause the buzz or damage the contactor over time. I'll be replacing them both and hoping for the best! Thanks again, subscribed. Great work.
@@jalkut The disconnect being stuck in doesn't effect the contactor to where it would damage it. The disconnect is high voltage coming out to the condenser, & aslong as the breaker is turned on at your electrical panel there will be 240 volts going to the disconnect. The contactor buzzing sound is from the low voltage coil inside the contactor. There's always high voltage going to the bottom of the contactor when the breaker is on, & when there's a call for cooling low voltage (24 volts) is sent out to the contactor coil and it pulls in the Contactor which sends the 240 volts up to the top of the contactor which feeds the compressor & condenser fan motor. In order to change the contactor, you want to make sure the thermostat is off inside the home which shuts off the low voltage (24 volts), & either remove the disconnect or shut off the breaker for the condenser. Then you need to use a multimeter to verify that the power is off at the contactor by putting each meter lead on the screws that hold the wires in at the bottom of the contactor to make sure you don't have 240 volts. Then put one meter lead on the ground screw and put the other meter lead on one screw at the bottom of the contactor, then put it on the other screw at the bottom of the contactor to verify you don't have 120 volts on each hot leg. Hope that helps. Now obviously the disconnect not pulling out is an issue I would get fixed or replaced cuz you want to be able to shut the unit down from outside if needed. Thanks again for watching & hope you Subscribed to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thanks for the perspective, and I'll be very careful with the shutoff both at breaker and disconnect before doing any replacements.
@@ApartmentMaintenance Hope I'm not boring you with all the follow-ups, but just FYI the contactor didn't turn out to be the problem. I did end up replacing the disconnect. Didn't replace the capacitor but I think the noise is coming from the compressor. I was able to disconnect the compressor from electric and the fan runs quietly enough. Anyway! I am probably going to hire a HVAC expert after all, but it was worth a shot. Thanks again for the great video!
You don't need to discharge the condenser after removing the breaker?
You would discharge the capacitor if you were replacing it. I was just changing the contactor so as long as power is off your good to go. Thanks for watching Mathieu 👍👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Perfect thank you !
Good
👍👍
Does it matter what terminals the yellow and blue wire go on, either top or bottom terminals?
Are you referring to the low voltage wires that connect on sides of the contactor ?
@@ApartmentMaintenance yes
@@JS-xr9ri First things first, always make sure your power is off before touching any wires. Pull the disconnect for the condenser, and shut the thermostat off as well that way there isn't 24 volts going to the contactor, which is for the yellow & blue wire. Then double check your voltage with a multimeter to confirm the power is off before touching anything. As for the 2 low voltage wires the small (blue & yellow) wires, it doesn't matter if you put them on the top or bottom terminals on the side of the contactor. Just make sure you have everything hooked up property on the contactor. It's always good to take a picture of the old one and refer to it when ur hooking up the new one, or just leave the wires connected to the old one and un-mount it from the condenser and mount the new one, then do 1 wire at a time. Thanks for watching J S & Subscribe to the channel 👍
How many ohms should it read to know if it’s good or bad? I thought anything between 18 ohms is okay... just wanted to make sure
These contactors on my property read anywhere from 17 - 18 ohms on a good one. This one read 19.6 which is not terrible but alittle higher than I like to see cuz anything 20 or higher I would replace. But the reason why I replaced this contactor was the buzzing noise. Thanks for watching ! Hope your SUBSCRIBED! 👍
Rich F makes sense bro thanks! I work on the same units as you so any advice comes in handy. Much appreciated
I've noticed you have switched two bottom cables. It doesn't matter where they go to? Just trying to learn. I hear similar sound and want to check all the options.
Good catch, and no it doesn't matter which one is on what side at the bottom. Each leg coming in the contactor is 120 volts which total 240 volts. Now only if your comfortable & at your own risk a good way to know for sure is to turn your thermostat on for cooling, & remove the disconnect or flip the breaker for the outdoor condenser & if it's the contactor buzzing you will hear it very good cause the compressor & fan will be off, but the contactor will still be pulled in cause the thermostat is still calling for cooling. Thanks for watching Lesio333 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thank you for the tip. I will definitely try it.
Today I've removed the cover to hear it better. Some days I hear it very loud. Today I do but not so much. Would contactor behave this way? Or it's pointing to something different?
@@lesio333 Yeah it can definitely be louder some days, & not so much others. If you do that test I said about you will know for sure if it is or isn't.
@@ApartmentMaintenance I did this I turned off the breaker but had the thermostat set to cold still and it was still buzzing. My fan works idk if the compressor does or not. I'm not getting cool air when I turn it on cold at the thermostat. But the blower inside works and filter is clean. Like I said the condenser fan works idk if the compressor is on or not (I seriously can't tell by ear if it's just the fan blowing or if the compressor is on.) But the refrigerant line isn't cold and when you put your hand over the top of the condenser fan it's not warm air it's cool air. If I replaced the contactor do you think it might fix the problem I'm having where the house isn't cooling? Or do you think it may be the capacitor that I should replace? Or should I just replace both of them? Or do you think it's a wiring issue?
@@AaronHatcher It's really hard to say without being there. But either the capacitor is bad, it's low on charge which means the system has a leak, there could be a restriction somewhere, it could be alot of things. With the indoor unit running u know that's not the issue. With the condenser fan running you know ur getting high voltage & low voltage to the outdoor condenser. Now it's just a matter of finding out if the compressor is working. Even through the contactor is making a noise, it's still working otherwise the fan wouldn't be running on the outdoor unit. So replacing the contactor is to quiet the noise it's making, & possibly replacing the capacitor might fix the no cooling issue. You would need to shut the power off to the system, then use a multi meter to test the capacitor. First you will have to read the capacitor that's installed so you know what the rating is for it so you know what your looking for when you test it with a multimeter or clamp meter, any type of meter that has the capacitor testing capabilities. On the meter it may be marked as MFD, CAP, uF, nF, or a symbol with a sideways T and what looks like a curved letter E beside it. You can do a visual check of the capacitor to see if it's showing any signs of it being bad, but that's not always the case. For visual signs, look to see if there's any type of oil down the sides of it, or if the top is bubbled up where the wire connections are. It should be flat on top. Good luck, & remember shut the breaker off to the AC unit before opening the panel. Safety First! If you don't feel comfortable, call a hvac technician. Thanks 👍
Here's a useful tip...whenever you do this or something similar take lots of pictures that you can referenc e to wire it back in..
Yes that is a great tip for replacing anything with wires that you aren't familiar with or it's your first time doing it. Obviously if it's something you do regularly then you should know how to do it properly & wire it correctly. But it's still good to have a picture that way you don't second guess yourself. Thanks for watching Daniel & subscribe to the channel 👍
I got the same buzzing noise coming out now ... how can I pick the right contactor, help please?
Check the label on the side of the contactor, see what volt your coil is, and write down all the info on it and get the same one. Or better yet, just get the model and serial of your condensing unit and search it on Google and it will give you a parts list and tell you what contactor is the replacement. Thanks for watching Muthana & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Apartment Maintenance this info helped me a lot determined the exact part I need.... thank you 🙏
Would this cause a buzzing inside of the unit?
Mine will buzz every 30 seconds or so.
Yeah more than likely I would say it's the contactor. Unless the system is not cooling, it could be the compressor trying to start. It's hard to say without seeing it of course.
@@ApartmentMaintenance definitely not cooling. May be the capacitor too it seems to be reading very low.
This is frustrating. MY AC is 2 years old (though in florida) and I just had it serviced but it's buzzing (lower pitch than that but definitely an electrical buzz). How did the AC guy not note that there was an issue
Sorry I somehow missed your comment 2 months ago & I was checking my comments for any that were possibly missed. I don't know why the AC guy didn't address the buzzing noise from your Condenser, but I would of called them back out there. If your comfortable with electrical you can determine if it's the contactor buzzing while the unit is running remove the disconnect which removes the 240 volts that power the condenser & if you still hear the buzzing sound while the disconnect is removed it's definitely the contactor as the coil on the contactor will still be energized with 24 volts from the thermostat. Of course only do this if you feel comfortable as I stated earlier. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching Vanquished & Subscribe to the channel
@@ApartmentMaintenance I was comfortable until I got zapped, which was very uncomfortable.
@@whitemailprivilege2830 Everyone gets zapped at one point or another doing this kind of work along with every electrician out there. Thanks for watching White Mail & Subscribe to the channel 👍
If the contactor is buzzing could it cause a cooling issue. When the thermostat is switched to cold but the ac is shut off at breaker the contactor still makes buzzing noise until you turn the thermostats off.
The reason the contactor is still buzzing after the breaker is shut off for the condenser is cause the breaker shuts the high voltage off (240 volts) the coil in the contactor that pulls the plastic switch in runs off low voltage (24 volts) & gets power from the thermostat. When u switch your thermostat over to AC, the thermostat sends 24 volts out to the contactor which pulls in the switch and creates a path for the high voltage that turns on the compressor & fan motor at the outdoor unit. When the system is powered up & off, there is 240 volts sitting live at the bottom of the contactor at all times and when there's a call for cooling the thermostat basically tells the contactor to pull in which will allow the high voltage to pass through the contactor to the wires for the compressor & condenser fan motor to turn on. So if your changing the contactor you need to shut the breaker off for the AC & shut the thermostat off. To answer your other question about it causing a cooling issue, if the contactor isn't allowing the voltage to pass through then yes that would cause it not to turn on. Thanks for watching Anarchy & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Hi,great video, I have question the contactor from condenser unit it make noise (buzzing) plus not even the fun moves, doesn’t start at all, it’s 2 different issues ? Or should be be replaced the contactor to resolve the issues ?? Please help
@@gury0771 Hard to say without seeing it in person, but it could be the capacitor as well. Would need a multimeter to verify everything. Thanks for watching gury0771 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thanks I will replace the capacitor
Question, the fan is running in my outside unit but the compressor is not running and the contact is humming so could that be the reason my compressor is not running or could it be the hard start? Please help 😁
If the contactor is pulled in it would be sending the high voltage across the contactor. I would check the capacitor to make sure it's good. If your saying it has a hard start on it, then the compressor must of had trouble starting in the past & it finally went. Unless your calling the capacitor a hard start.
@@ApartmentMaintenance a tech installed about 6 years ago a what looks to me a capacitor with what looks like a relay , but there are two other what look to me like capacitors one is large and one is small
@@jasonb4350 Definitely hard for me to say without seeing it in person, but i would guess the one with the relay is most likely a hard start kit. The other 2 capacitors your saying you have would be for the fan & compressor. The tech probably didn't have the correct size capacitor on his truck for your unit, so he installs 2 capacitors (which is fine). More than likely the little one is for your fan & the larger one is for the compressor. The fan capacitor would have the size on it showing what size it is such as (5.0 or 7.5, on the label). The bigger capacitor would have the size shown on it as well which depends on what size your system is, that capacitor would show (30mfd, 35mfd, 40mfd, 45mfd, 50mfd, 60mfd, 70mfd, 80mfd). That's the capacitor you would want to check the mfd on with a multimeter to see if it's good or bad. You need a meter that can test for microfarads. The meter would have a setting that says Cap, mfd, uF, or a symbol that looks like a sideways T & a rounded arrow pointing left. Always shut the power off to the system before removing any panels on the system. If you don't feel comfortable doing it I would call a professional hvac company to diagnose it. Even if the capacitor is bad, you won't be able to buy one at any HVAC supply houses without a contractors license or EPA Certification. They don't sell them at Lowes, home depot etc... Online would be your only place to purchase one.
@@ApartmentMaintenance thanks brother
@@jasonb4350 No problem! Subscribe to the channel & hit that thumbs up on the video. 👍
If I shut the breaker and the thermostat... what are my chances on getting electrocuted?
If your not comfortable or unsure I wouldn't mess with anything your not familiar with. Also need a multimeter to test & verify electrical components for operation. But I would strongly recommend having a professional or someone with experience test, replace, or trouble shoot any device. Thanks for watching Crazislick & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Can you install a cont2p030024v (2 pole) instead of a cont1p030024v (1 pole) Contactor. I installed a 2 pole but is still buzzes.
As long as it's not a heat pump with a crankcase heater. Cuz by installing a two pole contactor there aren't 120 volts coming in at all times now. But if it's still buzzing it may be a defective contactor. While the system is running go out to the outdoor unit & pull the disconnect out. All the high voltage components will shut off (compressor & fan motor), the only thing still energized will be the contactor with 24 volts. If you can still hear the buzzing then it's definitely the contactor, if the buzzing goes away then it's not the contactor. Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Thank you kindly for the response, no buzzing when pulling the disconnect. Not sure what it is as I suspected it was the Contactor. Could the capacitor be on its way out causing buzzing? @@ApartmentMaintenance
@@user-lp1hr9ig2g I guess it's possible, I never heard one buzz but they are inexpensive so it would be the next cheapest part to try. Good luck with it & Thanks for watching.
Replaced the capacitor and it stopped buzzing, it was going bad on the fan side when tested with a resistance meter, just stayed on OL @@ApartmentMaintenance
maybe i need to check my contactor again. i did this but still making noise... new contactor, new motor, new capacitor but still have the noise... but i got a extra contactor... i will try to replace again.
Interesting! It's possible you received a bad contactor. But the best way to confirm the noise is coming from the contactor is to turn the system on & go outside to the condenser & shut the disconnect off at the condenser (depending on what type of disconnect you have, you would either pull the disconnect out or flip the switch). Once you do that listen for the noise your hearing & if you still hear it it's definitely the contactor cause the thermostat is still sending 24 volts of power to the contactor since the thermostat is set to cool. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Datenth & Subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
Thanks and my neighbor says thanks
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching & subscribe to the channel 👍
why you replace the contactor but its reading 0.19v and the new contactor reading 0.17v
Replaced it cuz of the buzzing sound. It still ohm'ed out good but the noise is annoying & the contactor coil will eventually go bad. Thanks for watching Tony & Subscribe to the channel 👍
You've switched the bottom wires. It doesn't matter where they go?
No it doesn't matter cause they are both 120 volts of incoming power which totals 240 volts. The contactor itself will switch the power on or off by the thermostat calling for cooling from the Y signal on the thermostat. Thanks for watching Lesio333 & Subscribe to the channel 🛠️👍
@ApartmentMaintenance thank you very much for the video and very quick answer. My AC is buzzing, it stops for an hour or so when turn ac off an on. I was suspecting contactor and your video answered all my questions. Thanks for teaching us.
So, you are claiming the slightly difference resistance was the (unlikely but possible) issue, you never mentioned inspecting the actual Contact points.
Buzzing is generally created by an electrical arc, either internal to a magnetic switch with damaged Points or to External Damaged Contacts.(most likely)
The Magnetic switch is low voltage. Why no simple power disconnect test before replacing, to confirm?
* At least you have given me one more test to conduct before throwing parts at a problem.
I was replacing the contactor due to the buzzing sound & just ohmed it out to show what range it should be in, & said it was reading alittle high but changing it due to the noise. Thanks for watching crxess & Subscribe to the channel 👍
And four hundred dollars the man told me what it would cost to replace mine.
WoW! Glad the video helped out Terry. Thanks for watching & Subscribe to the channel 👍
What did you charge for that fix honestly? I want to know how much extra i am paying for all these service repairs at my restaurant. I just had a tech replace the motor on a dish unit and it broke and then the tech came and said it was contactor but 1st tech tested them when he came out and said they were good so i end up buying a new motor and set of contactors plus expedited hauling/shipping and 3 trip charges for nearly 6500 when i can get a new unit with warranty for 8500. And im paying an extra guy to come in and handwash and sanitize dishes for 10days so im getting a little.....well Im a little pissed and i like my local hvac guys but these Hobart techs man......its a damn racket.
I work for a property management company so I'm paid hourly for whatever I do. But if I was doing this job as a side job & it was the contactor I would charge $100 for diagnostic, part, & labor. Which is very cheap compared to an HVAC company. They have more overhead than what I would have doing side jobs. Where are you located? Thanks for watching Dapv144 & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance absolutely brother. I think 100 is fair and honest and you'd likely get more with the market charging the way it is especially in Eastern NC. The beach houses need property managers and a lot of that is HVAC. Im thinking about changing industries.
@@dapv144 I'm actually moving to NC next month but in the triangle area.
@@ApartmentMaintenance Nice. The RDC is alright. Homes are way Over-priced in that area especially Cary, but It's literally the heart of the Tarheel state. Plenty to do for entertainment, nice Shops and boutiques, decent dining, schools and universities are best in the state around there, and in your line of work, You'll have plenty of demand. Hope it beats Your expectations and best of luck with The Move. One thing though..... Carolina drivers don't use the fast lane correctly especially on 95.... make sure you have a dashcam!
@@dapv144 Appreciate the info. What is a decent area around Raleigh where homes are affordable? I'm renting at first until I find an area to purchase so I want to be looking in the right area.
We had ants inside.. can we just clean it?
That's hard for me to say without seeing it. You can try to clean it, but might be best to replace the contactor. Thanks for watching Ampman & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I called the hvac guy since it only got maintained 2 weeks ago
@@ampman.travels Good choice. 👍
So if it’s buzzing just replace it? Not much of an explanation. It’s easy to replace components but understanding the underlying problem is more than swapping out parts.
Yes cuz if it's buzzing not only is it annoying to the home owner, it's not going to get any better & it's going to fail in the future as the buzzing noise is a sign that something is wrong with the contactor to cause it to start buzzing. Which each case is different & would need further diagnosing to determine why it's failing. There might not be any reason other than the part is just going bad as lots of things do now a days. Great question & Thanks for watching Robert & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Ok
Thanks for watching SLS554 👍
I am going to be changing out the old contactor and putting in a new contactor. I will order a new Contactor. My heat pump is making Buzzing sounds and the fan does not come on. I will let you know if the new Contactor repair the heat pump.
Good lesson!!!!
@@sls554 If the fan doesn't come on I would check the capacitor as well. The contactor would most likely just be the cause of the buzzing noise.
@@ApartmentMaintenance Thanks great information. Do you have a video show how to test and remove the capacitor thanks so much.
So when this is happening, it no longer is cooling huh?
If the contactor is just buzzing but the switch or plunger (plastic piece with contacts on the back side) is pulled in, the condensing unit should be running. The buzzing is just annoying & that is coming from the 24 volt coil on the backside of the contactor. Thanks for watching ShyRage & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Oh ok. Mine willl work fine. SOmetimes the compressor sounds quiet while other days it sounds loud. Eventually it will buzz like crazy. WHen the buzzing starts, the fan is no longer exhausting hot air so I know the compressor is off but it humms like crazy. No cold air blowing inside when this happens
@@ShyRage1 Interesting, capacitor could be weak & not starting the compressor, but it's really hard to say without seeing it in person.
@@ApartmentMaintenance whats interesting about it is the last unit did this. When the new unit was installed, I thought that problem would be long gone. Eventually it happened two weeks after installation. It happens randomly. A tech came out but the problem would not replicate. Now, whenever it happens, I turn the system off for about 5 and then restart.
It really is weird.
@@ShyRage1 Could be something in the wiring like a short & it's an intermittent problem.