How to Fix Mr Coffee Maker
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this video I show you How to Fix Mr Coffee Maker when it won't brew or if it shuts off immediately after turning it on.
• How to Fix Mr Coffee M...
Happy to say it worked and it is still going strong.
The part is : KSD 301
You can get it on ebay for a couple dollars.
Or you can get it on Amazon here:
amzn.to/2q3BrXt
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Shout outs too:
doublewide6 Repairs LLC
The Original Mechanic
Mike Dels
DrcJr77
Phil DeProtine
John Way
The Frugal Toad
JJackyS11
michael mcleish
Crazy Builders
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Use 145C normally closed (NC) switch: KSD301 10A 250V 145C. The 10A 250V are the maximum current and voltage of the circuit. This fixed my Mr coffee of the same model as in the video. When I first tried the 95C switch the coffee pot shut off almost immediately. That was a sad moment because I boasted to my wife that it was an easy fix. The original thermal switch had a number 148 without units. So, I then ordered the 145C switch and it worked. Hooray! Well now I know that it was 148 Celsius! And I no longer have to sleep on a couch... Mr. Coffee engineers must have a good sense of humor -- triwing screwdrivers, seriously?
Thanks! Too many small appliances in the landfill. Just fix it!
Thanks. Found the part on Amazon and had hot coffee 2 days later.
Fantastic! Good Job
$10 for the switch, inflation. Works! Thanks!
Once overseas distributors see u need something price jumps drastically to make as much off u as possible.
I've seen it happen in every industry, especially if supplies are not locally stocked. If locally made it instantly becomes a price match war, quality be dammed. Or better quality till competition is gone then quality drops drastically.
I replaced that on mine a year or three ago, got two for a few bucks like you said. (I got the part number off the side, and had to use a magnifying glass to read it. If you need a magnifying glass to read it and don't have one, try zooming in and taking a photo with your phone.)
My problem NOW is that one of the two little resistors in series has died, and the circuit tester shows it as being open. Not sure if I can get a number off it, but will try... those, I'll have to solder. I have all that, just need the parts.
Very helpful video and comments. My dad had the impression that there was a water pump in this thing which wasn't working, so I began with that impression of repairs, but turns out it's just a bad thermostat or heat plate or that part you pointed out in the video as it's not heating up and there's no beeping happening even though the display panel and lights come on and it holds the time ok. My only problem are the 2 security screws under the rubber stoppers. I believe someone here called them tri-head screws or something? None of my screwdriver kits have something to remove these screws. So I'm on hold or buying a new one. Lol. 😂
i was able to remove those screws with a small flat head
Same, small flathead got them out.
BYPASS THE HEAT SWITCH - I just bypassed the heat switch and jumped the wires together after watching this video. I just plug it in to brew and unplug after :-) Thanks
This is not recommended because if you forget to unplug it you may burn out your heating element once the water is gone.
Also could be a fire hazard.
Mine failed in the closed position. It won't make coffee that way either, it overheats.
Bad juju. Hope you don't forget to unplug it. That coffee maker can be a fire hazard hot-wired that way. Hopefully the thermal fuses save your bacon if the time comes.
The number one cause of home fires are coffee makers, followed by space heaters. The Thermal switch was there to protect you.
I knew this was the problem, but thanks for the part number on Amazon
Any time!
Thanks. Found the part on Amazon and had it making coffee in 2 days.
Glad it helped!
What part did you order from Amazon?
The EASIER HEADACHE is just to buy a NEW Mr. Coffee Maker
The hose on the right is where the clog is. Take the ball out clean it and put it back. Keep the coffee maker clean once a month
The sweatshop that makes these for Mr. Coffee must have got a bad batch of these thermostats. It seems to be a common problem with the 5 cup makers as well.
The couple dollar replacement doesn't hurt too much. It's the $8 shipping.
I find your video very interesting. I have a Mr. Coffee that also stopped working. My model is Mr. Coffee BVMC-PC5BL2 5-cup Programmable Coffee Maker. After I got those tricky 3 screws in the bottom off, the inside looks quite a bit like yours. I need to ask a few questions: 1) When you checked the switch for continuity, the coffeemaker was off, right? When I tested mine my multimeter did not register anything. It remained at 0. I had the coffeemaker off when I tested it. 2) The switch in mine seems to be attached by 2 small screws. Are the screws what I need to take out in order to replace the switch? 3) My switch seems to have connectors for the two wires. Is it simply a matter of pulling the connectors apart with a small pair of pliers to disconnect the wires from the switch?
You need more details than just the part number "KSD 301". They come in different temperature ranges, and also different orientations of mounting flanges. 145C is probably the right temp?
Correction: The information on mine that I just took out says:
KSD301-G4
125V 16A
148
I assume the 148 means 148C.
Just fixed mine. One of the two thermal fuses there on the bottom that look like resistors was blown, no continuity. I just bypassed it with thick gauge solid copper wire and crimped it on either side of the blown fuse.
Mr Coffee Model BVMC EHX23 - the thermostat is brand RU (backwards R) part number KSD 303 125v 12A 155 degrees centigrade.. Looks like not all the Mr Coffees use the same temp rating thermostat. And there are dozens of companies making those thermostats.
My temp sw failed in the closed position, which will also keep it from making coffee (not to mention the fire hazzard 😳). Thanks for showing me where it is.
Glad you figured it out.
Thank you@
You're welcome
Where do I find the ball valve filler tube to purchase? being such a common item with coffee makers, I would think they were available at any hardware store.
Funny how many people had the same problem…
How do you know which temperature to order? It seems the KD301 is rated at different temperatures. Ideal coffee is supposed to be about 130 degrees F. Do you order one that temperature, or just above that so it shuts off?
Hi,
Which are the connectors you used?
I wonder how to take the two screws off from the bottom that have round rubber covered on the top.
peel off the rubber
Thanks for the video. Is there such a thing as a water pump? What moves the water through the coffee maker to the brew basket?
No, no water pump. Just heat and gravity.
@@FixItYourself Thanks. Maybe that's why I could never find a water pump listed as a part for this machine (ha). In a fit of impatience, while trying to empty water out of the water holder, I smacked the bottom of the machine. I thought I had messed up the water pump with that smack. But since there is no water pump, I'm at a loss to figure out why the machine sounds the "done" tone just seconds after I turn it on and why it takes an hour to brew a few cups of coffee. I'll take any advice but if you use terms like "continuity" or "board", I won't know what you're talking about.
My pot does the same thing, beeps as soon as you turn it on.
I immediately turn it off and turn it back on again and it usually works just fine after that.
If it beeps like its done again, try again.
This coffee machine is a POS. Right out of the box the clock did not keep time, so the automatic brew start was useless. Maybe 35 years ago digital clocks were still buggy, but in 2019? Now the machine beeps 3 times when I turn it on. So the thermo switch is bad. I simply soldered a piece of wire across it's contacts, and it works again. My last Mr. Coffee - did I mention it's a POS?
Thanks brotha! That fixed it.
You're welcome :)
My problem is the plastic tubes, one is melted and where can I find the replacement?
I had to get new fuses for my coffee maker, but I can't micro weld them back, and the solder keeps melting. Should I crimp them?
What fuses did you use? I had one fuse blow out of the two there and I bypassed that bad fuse with a copper wire.
You can solder the connectors but have to use a high melting point solder. Or you could get some barrel connectors and crimp them together.
I have continuity across the switch. What else could it be?
While the video did tell me how to ID the problem, (in my case it is the round thermal switch) I do not know where to get a new one from. Amazon had one at the correct (145 Deg F) rating but it does not have the Flange. Do you know where to buy the correct one for the Mr. Coffee ? I know you can not remove the flange from the old thermal switch. Thank you
Yea I'm pretty sure I reused the flange. It slides out if it.
The one I just worked on has a clamp going around it and the tube to hold it on.
My old thermal switch did not come out of the flange. Had to make a new flange. The clip holding the switch to the tube, is designed to be reused.
I ordered and received my part. I'm ready to open the bottom to discover the four screws are a screw head I've not seen before. The shape is like a tri fixture, not philips which has a quad fixture. What kind of screw head do I need for that?
That's called a tri-wing and you'll find it in a set like this:
amzn.to/2PPkleP
Not sure if you can find it in any stores. Maybe Harbor Freight?
I got one at Ace as part of a kit
Bought the ksd 301therostat from Amazon to replace mine that was bad except the coffee pot will only work about 20 sec before shutting off.
what is shutting it off? The thermostat?
Hi! I appreciate the video tutorial. I've tested thermal fuse, thermostat and heating element and they all have continuity. Do you have any idea what else could be a problem?
Maybe the circuit board is bad. In which case, time to buy a new one.
KSD301 is shutting off at 95C, not enough to boil the water.
Same thing happened to me. Then I purchased 145C switch and it works now.
My coffee machine as continuity on all the wires, but it’s not heating ? What could be my problem ?
star testing at wall plug
For me it just says on, it doesn’t percolate. No noise nothing.
My problem was that both thermal fuses blew. I replaced them and they blew again. The problem is that the thermostat is stuck ON and not regulating the temperature of the coil. Similar thermostats are available at different ratings. At what temp. is the recommended rating?
So the problem is with the same part only you have the reverse of my problem.
Mine wouldn't go on and yours wouldn't go off.
I'm not sure off the top of my head for the temp rating.
The one listed at the link worked for me and quite a few others.
But do it at your own risk of course. :)
Took the part out and it is part number KSD301-GR 125V 16A.
On Ebay & Amazon I am only finding 250v 10A versions??? Also, some of the KSD301's have a temperature range? Is the 250v 10a compatible for these coffee makers? Thanks!!!
You need to replace it with a 16A KSD-301 with the same temperature specification as your original.
The two critical specifications you need to pay attention to are the temperature specification and the voltage/amperage. For example, if you have a 145C 16A thermostat, it is designed to handle a current of up to 16A at the specified voltage when in the closed state. In my opinion, I would always recommend not exceeding the temperature rating of your original switch (you don't want your plastic coffee maker to start to melt or worse yet, catch fire because it was not designed to handle 195C, right?). And you should never replace the thermostat with one rated to handle a lower amperage (e.g. don't replace a 16A thermostat with a 10A one). While it is preferable to always replace with components of the same rating, it is OK electrically to replace a 10A thermostat with one that is rated to handle 16A. Similarly, stick with the same voltage rating if at all possible, keeping in mind to never replace the thermostat with one rated to handle a lower voltage (for example, never replace a 250V thermostat with a 125V). But if necessary, it is OK to replace a 125V thermostat with one rated to handle up to 250V).
thanks, but on my way to Wal Mart
well at least you gave it a shot
The link for the thermal switch is for 95 Deg C switch ... way hotter than the original part which had a temperature of 145 Deg Farenheit ... Do not want to use a unit that would make it that much hotter. How about a link to a unit with the correct temperature ? ? Thank you
145 F? Are you sure about that? I have seen 145 C maybe you read it wrong. Too bad the video doesn't manage to show the lettering on the thermostat, the whole point of the video being the thermostat, in 7 minutes not one good picture.
@@taterlysaladman9377 Agreed. Usually, the ratings on those thermostats are at 145 C/293 F.
Thats exactly what happened to mine ..... getting the spare parts isn't easy though.
Very rarely does the thermostat go. Its usually one of the thermal fuses..
Hi, I tested the part and I do have continuity in my fuse. However, the hot plate will still not warm up. It clicks on just like in your video and doesn't click off until I turn it off. Any advice? Thanks.
Sounds like your heating element is bad. Does anything get hot?
Might be ready for the bin. Save the thermistor.
How do you know what temperature of thermostat to use? ksd301 comes in all different temps also in both normally open and normally closed.
My coffee maker appears exactly as one in video. My thermostat says -
KI 31 ; 14893 ; 125V 10A.
There is no temperature listed on it. I assume KI 31 is same as ksd301 mounting since the one in the video fits.
If yours worked fine after fixing it them I guess the 145 c temp
The 145 temp on Amazon is around $6. You can get China direct on Ebay 2 or $3.
When I first tried the 95C switch, the coffee maker shut off almost immediately, but with 145C it works properly.
Wait whats cottonunity lol
lol
I am dam African means that electron pass through with a given pause of conductor
Nope going in the trash! Not worth repairing they are junk
They are junk but mine is still working now, knock on wood.