WHAT ARE BASE MATERIALS//Why Are Certain Base Materials Used-All About Aggregates-Road Base Material
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- Опубліковано 7 бер 2021
- In today's Down & Dirty we're talking about aggregates. My buddy Allen and his son Noah over at Construction Machinery Channel asked what are base materials and why are certain base materials used?
Go and checkout Allen's channel here:
/ @constructionmachinery...
We'll talk about...
1:01 Class 2 Sand
4:11 2ns Sand (Septic Sand)
5:57 Pea Stone (Pea Gravel)
7:35 6A Stone
8:44 21AA
11:50 1x3 Crushed Concrete
13:00 Geo Fabric, Bridge Ability
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I want to Honesty Congratulated you for this video ! ❤ You are kind of Unique with this kind of very important topic!
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Absolutely useful! Very to the point!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much!! Very interesting and I have learned a lot here, Thanks brother
I appreciate it brother!
Great overview, well thought out and easy to understand. Appreciate the knowledge. Please keep them coming. Sub’d!
Thank you for the support! I appreciate you subbing!
love this video, in depth info for us newbies
Thanks for watching!
Nice job Bryan, you explained everything really well. You also answered my question about the use of that fabric too. Next time I record at some new sites when the season starts I'm going to understand a lot more about the base materials and which is best depending on the application. Once again, thanks bud 👍🏻
Thanks Allen! I appreciate the idea for the topic.
@@DieselandIron No problem
God bless you and your family. That lesson was a success and I hope you had fun too. 😊
Thanks Jean!
Thanks for the lesson 🙂
Thanks for watching!
So true about lack of standards in naming convention 😂. Watching channels from other states, I hear crusher run that looks like 3/4 minus, drain rock that others call river rock, etc
Keeps things spicy for us in the field!
Awesome video man
Thanks Richy! I appreciate it.
You make the best videos!!
Thanks!
The labyrinth reference had me laughing! “Ole Charlie Bear”!! 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you!! Dear God I was hoping someone would appreciate that. I was afraid the reference would be too old 😂
Honestly, great video. Thank you for putting this out. I'm living overseas and struggling to build a decent road to my homestead
Glad these have been helpful!
Its amazing the way different material is called different names in different places. Road base for us in the desert is ABC. a combination of rock normally 3/4, some 1/2, and some fines to lock it in. We do have pea gravel and various screened gravel sized and the a number of crushed. 3/4, 3/4 minus same with 1"" or 1/2" all crushed and screened, or for the xx minus crushed and mixed. And we have alot of granite of different colors, usually named after the pit it was mined from. Used for decorative and dirt roads and driveways, and up in Flagstaff we get cinders. Volcanic cinders of various sizes. Thank you and be safe.
Thanks for the support brother!
I love seeing how different things are done in different areas👍 we crush concrete and asphalt at a 30% mix for quarry A gravel which is probably like your 21A . We only do that once in a while to get rid of spoils people dump off
99% of the time quarry A Gravel consists of 3/4 granite and stone dust also granite.
Love the video Bryan👍
Thanks James! I was afraid most guys would fall asleep for this one 😂 I agree though, it is really interesting seeing how different areas do things
@@DieselandIron I love this kind of information👍what can I say I’m a construction nerd 😂
@@gibsonlandscapeconstructio7984 amen to that! I love a good nerd out
Grat video.
Thanks William!
I'm an inspector in that field and you did a pretty good job explaining
Thank you! I know but a tiny drop from that fountain of knowledge. My goal was to give guys on the job a basic understanding of why we use some of the materials we do.
@@DieselandIron you did that.
@@Dbeststuff thanks for backing me up boss
All the guys at my work classify rock by the inch mostly then there's size- and clean. we use 6in clean as our base ,cause we're in muddy Wisconsin, then add a few inches of 1in- to the top to seal it, crown it, and make it smooth.
It's amazing to me how much variation there is in terminology between states. Thanks for the comment!
Same here in north MS.
I have a 3ft drop..I'd like to put the 3by1 concrete to build up the ground for a driveway.. Needs to be 20ft wide sloping for 27 feet to keep the grade at 3/4 inch per foot..
Adding this question to my list of ideas for a Down & Dirty topic. Due to lack of time, I'm starting to take consulting calls on the side. If you'd be interested in that, shoot me a message at thatdiggerdude@gmail.com. Thanks for the support brother!
@dieselandiron thanks for the info. Being you're based in MICHIGAN, would the aggregate of a road bed be the same in a southern state like Georgia or Alabama? Due to freezing not being an issue as much down here.
That's a good question. I'm not familiar with road building techniques in your area so it would be hard to say without looking at some prints. I would think the only major difference would be the sub grade materials and the amount of drainage taken into consideration. This allows water to get away from the road bed so freezes won't cause the road to heave. That's all speculation though...
I’ve been binge watching your channel the past couple weeks, are you also from Michigan?
I appreciate the views brother! I'm from Howell. Where are you at?
@@DieselandIron Hell yeah. I’m around Detroit. Came straight here after 4 years in the military back in 2019. Had zero experience in machines, never even pulled a trailer in a pickup...lol want to go into agriculture so I watched UA-cam videos daily my last couple years in the service, now I’m a supervisor for turf management and athletic field renovations. I still love ag but after running skids and loaders last year, earthwork is growing on me. I watched your laser videos last week before shooting grade for the first time. I was so nervous but we just wrapped up finish grade and we’re dead on for slope thanks to you! lol
Bryan, that was excellent.!!
Could you expand on it a bit though?
Not all of us are "fancy" (LOL) and live in Michigan on paved roads. Maybe you could expand this out to gravel road construction and materials.
Also, any chance you could touch on calculating compaction on these different base materials?
Let me see what I can do. When you refer to calculating compaction, are you referring to how much settlement you'll get during compacting or how many passes it will take?
@@DieselandIron Mainly settlement during compaction. I usually use Spikes compaction calculator, and sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn't. I'm mainly talking about a slab on grade type pad that I need to get to grade and have compacted with a vibratory roller, and rebuilding long gravel drives and turn arounds, where I have to scarify, grade, and compact the base, and grade and compact the gravel surface.
@@waynevincent5448 The honest truth is there isn't a good method outside of the initial estimation (using calculators or just a rough rule of 1.5-2" per 1ft lift) and then doing some onsite tests to dial it in. The method we often used when running GPS on our equipment was to do a trial area with the dozer set to finish grade. We would have the water truck hit the material and then roll it before having the dozer come back over top of the material. Using the GPS we could set the blade to "grade" and then adjust grade down till the blade touched the top of the material. The cut offset shown on the GPS would be our adjustment number for rolling out the material. For instance if we had a fill of .85' and the material compacted to be .15' lower than finish grade, we would set the GPS to perform a 1' fill with the loose material. When the roller came around it would settle to where it needed to be. From there it's just a matter of doing periodic spot checks from time to time.
@@DieselandIron Thanks for the reply, and the info. I will give that method a try, and see if it gets me where I want to be. I just hate realizing I'm going to be a 1/2" low on a 753' by 12' driveway on a Friday afternoon! Seems like I'm always short, and rarely long on material. I usually see the issue when I'm pulling material from pits other than my main supplier, which I think points back to QC at the pit itself.
Thanks for everything you do on this channel, I'm really glad I subscribed! Really looking forward to getting my "Hone Your Craft" hoodie that I ordered on Sunday.
@@waynevincent5448 I hear you. Material estimation is an artform and I'll just leave it at that!
I didn't realize that was your order. I truly appreciate the support brother! Let me know if you've got any issues with the order and I'll get them corrected for you.
You can explain things really well.
I have a question. I'm remodeling a bathtub on a slab foundation. I'm currently trenching the drains, and have tons of crushed concrete. Should I use the crushed concrete as backfill before I pour my concrete? Some of the pieces are really large (5 inches+), so I might not use those.
You could most likely get away with doing that and depending on your slab thickness you will most likely never have a problem. My only issue with this is the fact that you will have a fair amount of voids in your back fill material which doesn't give you the strongest base. That being said, it's a bathroom. You're not going to be driving a truck over this area so you should be just fine.
@@DieselandIron Thanks for replying. The slab is going to be around 4" thick. Ideally I would want 3/4" minus gravel? Or would it be clean? I live in a pretty wet area, but I don't think water should be penetrating the bathroom floor.
great video and subject content on road construction. Just out of curiosity what do they call that white chalk powder material that they throw on top of the dirt just prior to placing rebar. Most recently I seen it even in a light green color. What is it used for. Thanks and keep them videos coming.
Thanks for the compliment! I'll have to do some investigating on your question. We don't have a prep material that goes down before the concrete roadway is laid. Is the powder mixed into the dirt or is it just directly applied and then concrete poured over top? What state are you in? I'll try to get to the bottom of this...
@@DieselandIron thanks for the quick reply and potential follow up. I reside near Houston, TX. From what I recall the white stuff appears to be placed over the bare dirt. It doesn't appear to be mixed in. Also, I see similar stuff sometimes used on commercial building sites just after grading for the foundation has been completed and before concrete has been poured.
@@bklynbob9039 let me do some homework and see if I can figure out what that would be. We don't have anything like that up here in Michigan but that doesn't necessarily mean anything.
@@DieselandIron Ok, now I'm curious. Did you find out anything about the powder?
At first this sounded like concrete powder, but that’s normally tilled or mixed into the ground before the road is paved
I have a collapsed 1940s raised concrete porch and I would really like to be able to use that old concrete from the suspended pad broken up into chunks as filler between the new cinder blocks I'm going to pour a footing for and build up along the outside. It's like a four or five foot Gap top to bottom. I'm wondering if I can fill that 4 ft with the old broken up concrete and some gravel or dirt before graveling or if it's hopeless and I need to pay the cost of having it dragged off.
The only issue with filling spaces with broken concrete is the fact that you have voids until the material really has time to settle. There will be pockets between the concrete chunks that dirt won't get into until water is present.
Help! I’m a chemical engineer not a civil engineer lol, so I know little about this! Making a homemade driveway strong enough so school bus can use our driveway as the new turnaround (since the City accidently got rid of the only turn around for our entire neighborhood street, so I have to drive kids 4 x / day until my driveway is complete!). I have the geo tech fabric but debating at what point I lay it on the rock. My main question is HOW would you grade the road if the fabric is already laid down?? I have both 1-3” angular basalt which is strong and drains nicely. Some of which is down already in parts of the driveway but not all. I also have 3/4” angular clean gravel. I do need to do a little more road grading but worried if I lay the fabric too soon I will accidentally tear it up. I am using a box blade (with teeth that can be removed), and also just a regular bucket on a decent sized John Deere. I have already cut the public street asphalt road along the edge and already need to do repairs since parts have cracked off. No one ever talks about this hard part of how to connect the public asphalt road to a renovated gravel driveway (ours is now 100’ wide and shaped like a T so the bus has enough swing room before they back in to our driveway to turn around. I’m really worried about the edge and it is tough to cut down into the ground so close to the live without anything breaking.
I also bought commercial strength Truegrid paver grids for the top layer of gravel to help with distribution but was going to put it all the way next to the asphalt but along a block and concrete line next to the asphalt which will, hopefully, allow me to REPAIR parts broken off or cracks it now has. Doh! Hubby getting impatient and says I’m way over engineering it and we should have just added more gravel but I know that would have just ended up to be a muddy mess eventually (it was already actually but the parts I added the larger 1-3” aggregate and resloped myself has helped immensely!
But how do you grade with fabric below the rock (“very carefully…”?)?
Thank you for any advice!!
If it were me, I would peel back all of your existing stone until you get to dirt. Keep it in a nice clean pile where you can easily push it back out. Once you have your area graded flat, lay out the fabric and overlap layers by a foot or so. Now push the stone back out onto the fabric. If you use your box blade and drive in reverse you should be able to grade the stone nice and flat out onto the fabric without too much of an issue. Keep 4-6 inches of stone above the fabric to give you a nice drive that won't flex under the weight of the bus. If you are still having issues you might try capping that off with some screened asphalt millings. After a month or so of hot sun combined with the weight of the bus and cars driving over it, it should tighten up and feel almost like an asphalt road. As far as tying into the existing road, dig down about eight inches to 1 foot right at the edge of the road, about 1-1.5 feet back. Fill that entire area with stone. That will give you a nice solid base for your transition from the existing road to the driveway. That should last you for awhile!
No it wasn't boring 😂 thanks for the detailed information 👍 and the guys that ran u out of the pit they're what class A or C😂😂 thanks for the great video 😎
Glad you enjoyed it! The pit was actually super accommodating and didn't look at me too weird when I told them what I was doing 😂😂
Thanks for the reply and good to know they didn't cause u are putting out detailed and accurate information for people getting into this field
I’m doing a foundation next week very sandy soils. We will see how it goes!!
That's going to be a fun one. Good luck!
How do you grade on TOP of already laid fabric?? I’m worried I’ll go too far and accidentally ding / tear it?!
Time and practice! After awhile you get pretty good at knowing where you are in relation to your sub base. Occasionally you'll go a little deep and rip the fabric a little. Back blade it off and lay it flat and push stone back onto it and you'll be fine.
@@DieselandIron thank you! Glad to know even the pros can tear a little too sometimes….! 😉😊👍🏼
😎
I've been told anything above 2" will rip and tear the fabric... So can 3" replace the fabric? You said you put 3" on top of fabric all the time... so I'm wondering why the manufacturer and distributor are saying nothing more than 2"... I can't see it being shredded... I CAN see a few jacket pointed pieces poking through occasionally but over the majority of the area it would keep the mud from squishing up through... Im thinking 2 rolls at $400 each is like 200 tons pricewise of stone... Im thinking it's cheaper to add extra stone...
We have commonly-used 2 and 3 in crushed concrete over top of fabric without issues. I'm with you, I can see a couple spots getting some holes poked in it but overall the fabric isn't going to fail. I don't know what kind of stone you are using but $400 for 200 tons seems awfully cheap.
@@DieselandIron Thank you so much for the reply. I'd love to be able to talk further with you about it. I've had a hard time finding any clear guidance of when to use fabric.. I have a self serve quarry nearby that sells rock anywhere from $9-11/yard... My dump trailer can hold about 5 yds... And they charge $50/load anyways so that's what I was going with...
@@DieselandIron And I did my math wrong. $800 would give me 16 loads at $50/load and 5 tons per load makes 80 tons.. Sorry...LOL... Yeah 200 tons would be like 5 bucks a ton...
@@HiddenValleyHomestead haha I was going to say, I need to send a couple train cards your way to bring some out here and turn a profit! 😂
@@HiddenValleyHomestead shoot me an email at thatdiggerdude@gmail.com. I'd be more than happy to talk with you.
How do you know when you’re down to organic material when you digging?
Smell and sight. Organics have a very musty, decaying smell and are generally pretty dark soils. When you get past them you will start to see sand or lighter colored clay. Organic material is soft as well which is why we remove it before building something. You can't ever get it to compact because of the decomposing material.
@@DieselandIron okay thanks I’ve always wondered that.
@@dantekeskin1512 you got it!
Any questions about NY/NJ aggregate just ask me! I run the loader in a quarry in NJ. If I don't know the answer, I can ask around.
Nice! Feel free to pitch in on anything I missed or overlooked.
You pretty much nailed it. Like you said different names here but same material. And you probably know but didn't mention, those "veins" they get all the round material from is actually formed from an ancient riverbed. This is why it's round because it was smoothed by the water rushing over it.
We don't have too many of those out here so we mostly have manufactured or crushed stone and sand. My quarry is on Arcadian granite which we blast, crush, and wash for everything from 5"x9" gabien down to ultra fine pipe sand and "pond fill" which is so fine it's like clay.
Because we crush the material, it is ideal for concrete and asphalt mixing due to the sharp angles and rough edges like you said gives it great compaction.
@@wraith0127 I was trying to balance the interesting aspects with going too far down the rabbit hole. I thought about talking about water eroding the rock to its various shapes and the impact of glaciers in our area but I figured I'd lose people. I go pretty far down the nerd hole. I chatted with the civil engineer for an hour because I was genuinely having a good time 😂
Very true lol!
Thank you sir!
what is the size of aggregates for road base?
It all depends on your local governments requirements. Most DOT's set the standards on this.
How i contact you?
Shoot me an email at contact@dieselandironproductions.com
Bryan science class
That's right baby! School is in session!
He's a good teacher 👍🏻