@kmurray9244 - pro tip, It's cite, not site. You're welcome. Have I cited sources? Sure, lots of times; Griswold, Iwasaki, KWA, many books and scientific papers also, to name a few. I've done lab experiments on camera to prove points also. Do I cite every source every time? No, this is a YT channel not a thesis paper. When someone wants to challenge a specific point or fact, they're welcome to do do but no one is welcome to act like a jerk on my channel. So, bye. Some, not all, of the sources that factor into my understanding of the Scottish stones include Tucker, RCAHMS, Canmore, occupants of the quarry in recent times, and my own hands-on investigation. I reference the historically accurate sources on my website. As an aside, I never regurgitate anything from plagiarism websites, Facebook groups, or forum posts
Hey hey great to see a new vid I'm so glad I passed on these stones I did hmm and haw a bit but after watching your vid I feel better bout my choice, Gratz Keith
hi Keith! There were two quarries where WoA was mined. Yours is one of those extracted from the first quarry, the Mekildale quarry, as can be seen from the particular pattern. I use it immediately after a Llynn Idwal, and it gives me a smooth and comfortable shave. Instead I can't find a place for the Dalmore Blue, it's not a bevel setter, not even a good prefinisher in my opinion... I can't understand it, maybe I need to study it better. Greetings from Italy!
Yes, one type of WOA is more black than the other, the later variant is sorta purple/blue. The real/1st WOA is more black is finer. They're two different types of stone it seems, or two grades of the same stone....either way, they're not really the same.
a little while ago someone in a Facebook hone group I'm in posted a picture stating they had a sandstone the seller estimated performed around what a 2k-3k stone would and posted pics of he stone. in my prior research I'd read that the Dalmore Blue came in 2 varieties. A DB stone that had the typical patterning tended to be courser (Bevel setter as I've heard, performance closer to a 1k synth), and then a solid color DB stone no patterning would perform at around 2k-3k. I understand not wanting to give grit levels, I only use them as a rough idea in naturals, they won't perform the same way a synth will. The person from the group tested a patterned DB and the new stone, looked at them under a microscope it did seem with a good amount of certainty that they were both DB stones, just that the new solid color stone was indeed finer than the patterned one. Just some info I've found, no guarantees but hopefully its useful.
I've learned a mud stone when to soft , the slurry is mud and dulls . So only can get to the level of the particals. So just water can really improve the edge by the pure natural particale size. Seems to work depending on the stone...
Yes I see that , slurry with some stones speeds up the process. Also it takes the inate feeling , as of an artist to feel and hear the reaction vibes resonating off the stone to give away its work of perfection on the edge. Is profoundly interesting to me. I can never get enough of your videos as I myself am continually learning... that process is never ending and constitutes for a wonderful hobby and a great shave like nothing else can do..
Hey. I bought myself a paired stone Water of Ayr and Tam O'Shanter 12/3 cm. But I haven't tried it yet. However, I doubt that after Tam O'Shanter working up to a maximum of 6000 grit, you can safely switch to Water of Ayr and get a comfortable shave.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Of course, there are people with very soft facial stubble. I know a man who shaves with a straight razor sharpened at the level of 4000 grit. She shaves off his hair without any effort and negative consequences for the skin. However, I did not mean such rare characters, I am also not that case. I have quite thick and stiff bristles covering the entire shaving area growing in a very uncomfortable direction and I have very thin skin. I was unlucky. I bought the paired stone simply because there was an opportunity. Sooner or later they will disappear from sale.
Although whisker type can play in to it, it's really not always just a matter of how soft someone's whiskers are - I know one person using the TOS to finish and his beard is not 'soft' by any means. There's more to it than that. Best to not assume. If it works for someone then it works, there can be many reasons why something seems to work for person A and not person B. Los of stones are like this - Coticules for example.
I can shave off my white "surgical" (~_-) TOS, and I have pretty coarse hair@@sergey_ru . It wouldn't be my first choice in several lifetimes, but it's possible.
Followup (I'm the guy shaving off a Tam). I have two of those little Tam sticks but never lapped the second one until tonight. It's slightly darker and smells muddier. It's also notably coarser and grainier. I did 30 or 40 laps on that one, then did about the same on half the blade on the finer one and even under 10x there is no comparison; the finer one is much finer, basically polished. So...I don't think I'm crazy after all, there is a wide variability between the same "grade" of stone. I wouldn't be shaving off the coarse one either. I got a small Water of Ayr recently (probably the same source) and it hasn't wowed me but it seems like it has potential.
There are more than a few TOS users out there I think, lol. Yes, different TOS are finer and coarser, like the darker one in my video is coarser. TOS wasn't a grade - just a type - the grade, if present, was on the label,. There was an extra fine one, very pale grey when dry. Was called White TOS I have one now, unlabeled though. Same source. None of them impressed me as finishers but it is what it is. The black WOA proves out as being a hair finer than all, but just enough to make a change and not enough to make me wanna go that route too often. The blue/purple WOA is not in the same league.
Atoma plates are very good quality. Precision/flat, very durable. I have done a lot of lapping with my 400 and it took a long time ro break in/mellow out. The diamonds are held into the nickel very very good (better than any diamonds plate i have ever used) As long as a feller keeps water running and keeps tge grit flushed between the stone that being lapped and the diamond plate theses plates can lap more than a hundred feet of stone. Ultra Sharp diamond plates ( rank 2nd to Atoma) are what DMT used to be (meaning not spotty displacement of diamonds, like the are now). The only thing is they're super aggressive , meaning way coarser than their grit rating, and take forever to break in. I don't use them for lapping only for sharpening knives and other tools.
DMT plates are very good quality, esp their lapping plates. I'm going to be buying a couple new ones in the next few weeks actually. They are different than Atomas in style and have to be used differently. I prefer to lap with Atoma mostly due to the surface style. Atoma plates are good quality but not always flat. The DMT lapping plates are certified flat, for those that feel they need it. Frankly, I was not impressed with 'Ultra Sharp' plates, they seem like a budget version of DMT. Grit rating was way off and the surface was very uneven. I could make them work, but I don't like wrestling with subpar gear. Thankfully, Amazon accepts returns easily so I'm getting refunded soon. I'm going to get 2 DMT Dia-Fine plates instead.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Yeah the Dmt coarser grits have even diamond displacement all the way to the edges. The finer Dmts don't have even distributed diamonds all the way to the edges, now that was a few years ago so they may have gotten better. I do like the xxc Dmt, diamonds are even all the way to the edges. I have the 8*3, i would like the 4*10 but she is pricy! My atoma plates are precise i have a precision straight edge (not a Chinese one) and they read flat with aluminum foil thickness of feeler gauges how evee thick that is, i dont claim to be smart and know decimal or thousandths of my thinnest feeler gauge, (i would have to look) I fine the Ultra sharp once broken in, which takes time finish (my knives) as good as dmts did 15 years ago
@@michaelshults7675 I've worn out a good dozen Atoma, and sold probably hundreds of others, the flatness is sporadic, intermittent. Some are flat, some are not. Most are not perfectly flat. It doesn't really matter for lapping stones though. Close enough is fine. Any manufacturer can run into isolated production issues, doesn't mean their entire catalog is suspect. DMT will replace out of spec plates. I only ever had one Duofine that had surface problems and I have had a good number of DMTs over the years. Have had finer plates from them without issues, recently too, but if I did receive one with a bad surface they'd replace it with a good one. Glad you like the Ultra Sharp plates but they didn't jazz me and they remind me of the cheap Chinese plates from Alibaba. I'll stick with DMTs for grinding steel and Atomas for lapping stones. If I need a disposable plate I can get them at Harbor Freight.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Every body's mileage will vary. You cannot test flatness on the diamond side really on a plate with a straight edge, it will give you a false reading, because the diamonds protrude above the surface, and any diamond plate . On a Atomo that aluminum plate (without the diamond pad/sheet) is plenty of close to dead flat. There is no way of verification that the Dmt lapping plate is dead accurate and flat, again because the 120 mesh diamonds protrude above the surface of the plate . I do agree Dmt, Atoma, are flat enough for lapping a piece of rock that's going to hone an imperfect razor(honed by a fallible person), and shave with imperfect skin . Its just a hobby it ain't the Olympics or aerospace toleraces Sometimes we make thia hobby more complex than it really is
@@michaelshults7675 I've bought Atoma's aluminum plates separate from the pads, many many times, and they're not really all that flat, or square, most of the time. The pad's RA varies, due to the materials being used, somewhat, also. When combined, things to not get flatter. They're flat enough, but it's easy enough to see the tolerances are not all that tight. DMT uses lasers to gauge the flatness of their plates prior to coating, and the surface condition, texture, RA after coating have to pass their standards. The top and back of my last 10x4 diafine was dead flat. Doesn't matter but it is what it is. As with everything, there are tolerances to live with, it's just that the tolerances are tighter with the certified flat plates. I've said it a million times, no one really needs an absolutely flat plate to make a flat stone. My worn Atomas are so far out of flat it's not funny but my stones are dead flat within .001" tolerance. The only reason any of it matters, to me, is because people keep asking me for perfectly flat diamond plates and I want them, everyone, to know the Atomas are not certified to be that flat. Their abrasive pads are attached to the aluminum with an adhesive backing by hand, that alone tells us what sort of tolerances and accuracy to expect. I also tell everyone asking that they're more than good enough but some guys just want to be told their gear is perfect or something. Another point of interest for me is that I use the dead 10x4 DMT to lap Arks with SIC, that dead flat plate makes life a little bit better.
I have shaved off a TOS for quite a while now. To be honest it probably is a pre finish stone but I've just had very good results with it. I agree it's not equivalent to an 8k. I just get a very clean edge. That said, im not the guy who needs to have hairs jumping off my face at the very sight of a razor. The TOS just does the job and its comfortable. I enjoy these shave videos a lot but at the end of the day it's a 4 minute process i do every other day.
Everyone is different, horses for courses they say. I don't like diamond paste edges but some say they 'need' them. Like DE blades, some swear by Feathers while saying Dorcos are bad. I think Dorkos shave well enough for me to not care about Feathers.
@@terrysmith4889 I could and have made my daily driver razor split atoms in the past. It's a 13/16" Wade and Butcher that I bought on eBay for $40 and " refurbished". I don't need or care to have my razor splitting atoms every time I shave. I am just trying to shave and go to work.
very interesting i have a buddy has one and says the same good stone but not up there with your top finishers . yes my friend every body’s is different. me i like a mega keen edge my buddy likes a softer edge but i don’t tell him you need a sharper edge , i am happy he has found the edge that suits his face and shaving style 👍
Variety is the spice of life, a little sharper a little smoother a little milder, etc - whatever works, works... thank you for watching and commenting - and happy honing!
The Kanji says Chikara - means strength or power. Hatanaka has used a stamp that people refer to as Maruka - Maru means circle Ka is the phonetic pronunciation of the symbol. In 1996, Kiss put out an album "Chikara" and you can see the same artwork on some of the releases and swag.
@@KeithVJohnson1 ok so circle with k in middle is the maruka or best known? sorry i know this is not a jnat forgive me. but what is this new green circle on alot of stones being sold now? the stamps literally look like they were just stamped. i cant even make out whats in the middle of it.green circle with wings in middle maybe. i was also told this was maruka by a japanese guy
@@jackhere4594 When discussing Jnats - the so called 'Maruka stamp" which can only be used by Hatanaka, has 4 characters inside a border, the first character is the circled Ka, Chikara, Phonetically - Maru (circle) and Ka, kanji character. On its own, a circled Ka on a stone is not the Maruka stamp. I don't know the green stamp you are talking about, so I can't advise. Yes, this sidebar convo is outside of the video's topic by a long shot so it's best to move forward.
@@jackhere4594 I stay out of conversations about stones being sold by others because it just pisses people off and I do not like to argue online. There is only one Maruka stamp, and you can see a photo of one on my website at the top of the "Tennen Toishi" page and you can find the definition and characters for that stamp in my Jnat Glossary. There is no new Maruka stamp, there is no other type of Maruka stamp. The only Maruka stamp out there has these characters inside a border - ㋕正本山 - anything else is b/s.
@kmurray9244 - pro tip, It's cite, not site. You're welcome. Have I cited sources? Sure, lots of times; Griswold, Iwasaki, KWA, many books and scientific papers also, to name a few. I've done lab experiments on camera to prove points also.
Do I cite every source every time? No, this is a YT channel not a thesis paper. When someone wants to challenge a specific point or fact, they're welcome to do do but no one is welcome to act like a jerk on my channel. So, bye.
Some, not all, of the sources that factor into my understanding of the Scottish stones include Tucker, RCAHMS, Canmore, occupants of the quarry in recent times, and my own hands-on investigation. I reference the historically accurate sources on my website.
As an aside, I never regurgitate anything from plagiarism websites, Facebook groups, or forum posts
I could listen to you talking about stones all day
Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words too! Happy Honing!
Always great to see a new video Keith, Thanks!
You're welcome, and thank you for watching and commenting!
Yes, I love to watch them to. Great fun and learning from keith...
Hey hey great to see a new vid I'm so glad I passed on these stones I did hmm and haw a bit but after watching your vid I feel better bout my choice, Gratz Keith
They're ok, just not the 'to die for' type...better than average tho....good to see ya Johnny... happy honing!
hi Keith! There were two quarries where WoA was mined. Yours is one of those extracted from the first quarry, the Mekildale quarry, as can be seen from the particular pattern. I use it immediately after a Llynn Idwal, and it gives me a smooth and comfortable shave. Instead I can't find a place for the Dalmore Blue, it's not a bevel setter, not even a good prefinisher in my opinion... I can't understand it, maybe I need to study it better. Greetings from Italy!
Yes, one type of WOA is more black than the other, the later variant is sorta purple/blue. The real/1st WOA is more black is finer. They're two different types of stone it seems, or two grades of the same stone....either way, they're not really the same.
a little while ago someone in a Facebook hone group I'm in posted a picture stating they had a sandstone the seller estimated performed around what a 2k-3k stone would and posted pics of he stone. in my prior research I'd read that the Dalmore Blue came in 2 varieties. A DB stone that had the typical patterning tended to be courser (Bevel setter as I've heard, performance closer to a 1k synth), and then a solid color DB stone no patterning would perform at around 2k-3k. I understand not wanting to give grit levels, I only use them as a rough idea in naturals, they won't perform the same way a synth will. The person from the group tested a patterned DB and the new stone, looked at them under a microscope it did seem with a good amount of certainty that they were both DB stones, just that the new solid color stone was indeed finer than the patterned one. Just some info I've found, no guarantees but hopefully its useful.
I've learned a mud stone when to soft , the slurry is mud and dulls . So only can get to the level of the particals. So just water can really improve the edge by the pure natural particale size. Seems to work depending on the stone...
Slurry on this stone was counterproductive for razor finishing.
Yes I see that , slurry with some stones speeds up the process. Also it takes the inate feeling , as of an artist to feel and hear the reaction vibes resonating off the stone to give away its work of perfection on the edge. Is profoundly interesting to me. I can never get enough of your videos as I myself am continually learning... that process is never ending and constitutes for a wonderful hobby and a great shave like nothing else can do..
Hey.
I bought myself a paired stone Water of Ayr and Tam O'Shanter 12/3 cm. But I haven't tried it yet. However, I doubt that after Tam O'Shanter working up to a maximum of 6000 grit, you can safely switch to Water of Ayr and get a comfortable shave.
Some people say they shave comfortably off the TOS.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Of course, there are people with very soft facial stubble. I know a man who shaves with a straight razor sharpened at the level of 4000 grit. She shaves off his hair without any effort and negative consequences for the skin. However, I did not mean such rare characters, I am also not that case. I have quite thick and stiff bristles covering the entire shaving area growing in a very uncomfortable direction and I have very thin skin. I was unlucky. I bought the paired stone simply because there was an opportunity. Sooner or later they will disappear from sale.
Although whisker type can play in to it, it's really not always just a matter of how soft someone's whiskers are - I know one person using the TOS to finish and his beard is not 'soft' by any means. There's more to it than that. Best to not assume. If it works for someone then it works, there can be many reasons why something seems to work for person A and not person B. Los of stones are like this - Coticules for example.
I can shave off my white "surgical" (~_-) TOS, and I have pretty coarse hair@@sergey_ru . It wouldn't be my first choice in several lifetimes, but it's possible.
Followup (I'm the guy shaving off a Tam). I have two of those little Tam sticks but never lapped the second one until tonight. It's slightly darker and smells muddier. It's also notably coarser and grainier. I did 30 or 40 laps on that one, then did about the same on half the blade on the finer one and even under 10x there is no comparison; the finer one is much finer, basically polished. So...I don't think I'm crazy after all, there is a wide variability between the same "grade" of stone. I wouldn't be shaving off the coarse one either.
I got a small Water of Ayr recently (probably the same source) and it hasn't wowed me but it seems like it has potential.
There are more than a few TOS users out there I think, lol. Yes, different TOS are finer and coarser, like the darker one in my video is coarser. TOS wasn't a grade - just a type - the grade, if present, was on the label,. There was an extra fine one, very pale grey when dry. Was called White TOS I have one now, unlabeled though. Same source. None of them impressed me as finishers but it is what it is. The black WOA proves out as being a hair finer than all, but just enough to make a change and not enough to make me wanna go that route too often. The blue/purple WOA is not in the same league.
Atoma plates are very good quality. Precision/flat, very durable. I have done a lot of lapping with my 400 and it took a long time ro break in/mellow out. The diamonds are held into the nickel very very good (better than any diamonds plate i have ever used) As long as a feller keeps water running and keeps tge grit flushed between the stone that being lapped and the diamond plate theses plates can lap more than a hundred feet of stone. Ultra Sharp diamond plates ( rank 2nd to Atoma) are what DMT used to be (meaning not spotty displacement of diamonds, like the are now). The only thing is they're super aggressive , meaning way coarser than their grit rating, and take forever to break in. I don't use them for lapping only for sharpening knives and other tools.
DMT plates are very good quality, esp their lapping plates. I'm going to be buying a couple new ones in the next few weeks actually. They are different than Atomas in style and have to be used differently. I prefer to lap with Atoma mostly due to the surface style. Atoma plates are good quality but not always flat. The DMT lapping plates are certified flat, for those that feel they need it. Frankly, I was not impressed with 'Ultra Sharp' plates, they seem like a budget version of DMT. Grit rating was way off and the surface was very uneven. I could make them work, but I don't like wrestling with subpar gear. Thankfully, Amazon accepts returns easily so I'm getting refunded soon. I'm going to get 2 DMT Dia-Fine plates instead.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Yeah the Dmt coarser grits have even diamond displacement all the way to the edges. The finer Dmts don't have even distributed diamonds all the way to the edges, now that was a few years ago so they may have gotten better. I do like the xxc Dmt, diamonds are even all the way to the edges. I have the 8*3, i would like the 4*10 but she is pricy! My atoma plates are precise i have a precision straight edge (not a Chinese one) and they read flat with aluminum foil thickness of feeler gauges how evee thick that is, i dont claim to be smart and know decimal or thousandths of my thinnest feeler gauge, (i would have to look)
I fine the Ultra sharp once broken in, which takes time finish (my knives) as good as dmts did 15 years ago
@@michaelshults7675 I've worn out a good dozen Atoma, and sold probably hundreds of others, the flatness is sporadic, intermittent. Some are flat, some are not. Most are not perfectly flat. It doesn't really matter for lapping stones though. Close enough is fine. Any manufacturer can run into isolated production issues, doesn't mean their entire catalog is suspect. DMT will replace out of spec plates. I only ever had one Duofine that had surface problems and I have had a good number of DMTs over the years. Have had finer plates from them without issues, recently too, but if I did receive one with a bad surface they'd replace it with a good one. Glad you like the Ultra Sharp plates but they didn't jazz me and they remind me of the cheap Chinese plates from Alibaba. I'll stick with DMTs for grinding steel and Atomas for lapping stones. If I need a disposable plate I can get them at Harbor Freight.
@@KeithVJohnson1 Every body's mileage will vary. You cannot test flatness on the diamond side really on a plate with a straight edge, it will give you a false reading, because the diamonds protrude above the surface, and any diamond plate . On a Atomo that aluminum plate (without the diamond pad/sheet) is plenty of close to dead flat. There is no way of verification that the Dmt lapping plate is dead accurate and flat, again because the 120 mesh diamonds protrude above the surface of the plate . I do agree Dmt, Atoma, are flat enough for lapping a piece of rock that's going to hone an imperfect razor(honed by a fallible person), and shave with imperfect skin . Its just a hobby it ain't the Olympics or aerospace toleraces Sometimes we make thia hobby more complex than it really is
@@michaelshults7675 I've bought Atoma's aluminum plates separate from the pads, many many times, and they're not really all that flat, or square, most of the time. The pad's RA varies, due to the materials being used, somewhat, also. When combined, things to not get flatter. They're flat enough, but it's easy enough to see the tolerances are not all that tight. DMT uses lasers to gauge the flatness of their plates prior to coating, and the surface condition, texture, RA after coating have to pass their standards. The top and back of my last 10x4 diafine was dead flat. Doesn't matter but it is what it is. As with everything, there are tolerances to live with, it's just that the tolerances are tighter with the certified flat plates. I've said it a million times, no one really needs an absolutely flat plate to make a flat stone. My worn Atomas are so far out of flat it's not funny but my stones are dead flat within .001" tolerance. The only reason any of it matters, to me, is because people keep asking me for perfectly flat diamond plates and I want them, everyone, to know the Atomas are not certified to be that flat. Their abrasive pads are attached to the aluminum with an adhesive backing by hand, that alone tells us what sort of tolerances and accuracy to expect. I also tell everyone asking that they're more than good enough but some guys just want to be told their gear is perfect or something. Another point of interest for me is that I use the dead 10x4 DMT to lap Arks with SIC, that dead flat plate makes life a little bit better.
I have shaved off a TOS for quite a while now. To be honest it probably is a pre finish stone but I've just had very good results with it. I agree it's not equivalent to an 8k. I just get a very clean edge.
That said, im not the guy who needs to have hairs jumping off my face at the very sight of a razor. The TOS just does the job and its comfortable. I enjoy these shave videos a lot but at the end of the day it's a 4 minute process i do every other day.
Everyone is different, horses for courses they say. I don't like diamond paste edges but some say they 'need' them. Like DE blades, some swear by Feathers while saying Dorcos are bad. I think Dorkos shave well enough for me to not care about Feathers.
@@KeithVJohnson1 absolutely. Wish more people understood that in the straight razor world.
@@JeffSmith-eq3kc IF YOU CANNOT SPLIT ATOMS WITH IT JUST THROW IT AWAY
@@terrysmith4889 I could and have made my daily driver razor split atoms in the past. It's a 13/16" Wade and Butcher that I bought on eBay for $40 and " refurbished". I don't need or care to have my razor splitting atoms every time I shave. I am just trying to shave and go to work.
@@KeithVJohnson1 hello keith, may i ask which dorcos you've found to work well for you?
Kieth do you sell Cashew lacquer? How can I buy from your website . Not Etsy store. Thank you…
I do not sell Cashew., I only sell on Etsy, not my site.
Kieth, when you said you sealed it. Did you seal it with cashew lacquer? Thank you….
Not Cashew, was some sort of clear spray paint.
I have one of those water of ayr and tam o shanter combos with the box and labels- Never used it 😂
They can be fun options but maybe not the best options....lol
Great vid
Thank you! Happy Honing!
very interesting i have a buddy has one and says the same good stone but not up there with your top finishers . yes my friend every body’s is different. me i like a mega keen edge my buddy likes a softer edge but i don’t tell him you need a sharper edge , i am happy he has found the edge that suits his face and shaving style 👍
Variety is the spice of life, a little sharper a little smoother a little milder, etc - whatever works, works... thank you for watching and commenting - and happy honing!
is that the maruka stamp at the end? some japanese are tellin me that green stamp with circle is maruka but some reason i dont believe that.
The Kanji says Chikara - means strength or power. Hatanaka has used a stamp that people refer to as Maruka - Maru means circle Ka is the phonetic pronunciation of the symbol. In 1996, Kiss put out an album "Chikara" and you can see the same artwork on some of the releases and swag.
@@KeithVJohnson1 ok so circle with k in middle is the maruka or best known? sorry i know this is not a jnat forgive me. but what is this new green circle on alot of stones being sold now? the stamps literally look like they were just stamped. i cant even make out whats in the middle of it.green circle with wings in middle maybe. i was also told this was maruka by a japanese guy
@@jackhere4594 When discussing Jnats - the so called 'Maruka stamp" which can only be used by Hatanaka, has 4 characters inside a border, the first character is the circled Ka, Chikara, Phonetically - Maru (circle) and Ka, kanji character. On its own, a circled Ka on a stone is not the Maruka stamp. I don't know the green stamp you are talking about, so I can't advise. Yes, this sidebar convo is outside of the video's topic by a long shot so it's best to move forward.
@@KeithVJohnson1 where can we talk about this so i can send u the new green stamp all are sayin is maruka?
@@jackhere4594 I stay out of conversations about stones being sold by others because it just pisses people off and I do not like to argue online. There is only one Maruka stamp, and you can see a photo of one on my website at the top of the "Tennen Toishi" page and you can find the definition and characters for that stamp in my Jnat Glossary. There is no new Maruka stamp, there is no other type of Maruka stamp. The only Maruka stamp out there has these characters inside a border - ㋕正本山 - anything else is b/s.