Building a new addition to the workshop. all the space
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- We dive into a major upgrade for my 30x50 workshop! Adding a big 16x30 lean-to off the back to nearly double our storage!
New merch! - garagebuiltco.com
Tools Used
Milwaukee Bandsaw - amzn.to/2Zqn4OU With This Stand - amzn.to/3d5bqNv
Cheap Plasma Cutter - amzn.to/3hJdbS7
Milwauke Tool Die Grinder - amzn.to/2MoAQu9
Milwaukee Tool Headlamp - amzn.to/2xUWthH
Small Milwaukee Flood Light - amzn.to/2Sf39Ox
Milwaukee Tool Underhood Light - amzn.to/3f5K6jw
Milwaukee Tool Mid Torque 1/2" Impact(2861-20) amzn.to/3b1bqwG
Milwaukee Tool Stubby 3/8" Impact (Small Most Used Tool)- amzn.to/2Jdirid
Milwauke Tool 3/8" Ratchet (Life Changing) - amzn.to/2JcpQhy
Milwaukee Tool 1/4" Ratchet - amzn.to/35VZM41
Milwaukee Tool Ratchet Wrenches - amzn.to/2CYRFKz
M12 Drill/Driver - amzn.to/35QVZoR
M18 Drill/Driver - amzn.to/2p6WuKJ
Gearwrench 3/8 Socket Set Mid Length (Very Nice Sockets) - amzn.to/2VnbMHm
Gearwrench 3/8 Socket Set Deep - amzn.to/3b1pFBH
Multiprocess Welder - amzn.to/3g6y5dK
Drill Bits - amzn.to/3fc4DkZ
Thanks to all who support me on Patreon! - www.patreon.co...
IG - / taylordrifts
Twitter - / taylordrifts
Email For business Inquires - taylordrifts@gmail.com - Авто та транспорт
I’m a simple man I see Taylor put up a video, I come into comments and tell him everything he did wrong
Not enough raccoons.
Matt, Go home you're drunk. lol
I blame the squirrels
Where do you start. My comment usually sounds like a rant and a whole lot of jabber jibbing jabberdoo jabbering
@LS Stop blaming the squirrels and take some responsibility and go home and take Matt with you.
I would put a gutter on the tree side, that way the rain doesn’t erode the ground.
Would also make sure to run it back some too. For it goes into the wood area.
Agree, it's gonna splash sand and grime a surprising amount (all over whatever is back there...) if it just pours off of there....
Love seeing the shop ugrades just as much as the car upgrades
Just a few observations. You never want to have your support boards meet in the middle, they should meet at the upright posts so they won’t sag over time. You need to lag that ledger board into the building with bolts, those screws won’t hold up when you get hurricane winds. You can spray water into the hole and just dump the dry concrete in and mix right in the hole, saves a lot of work. Glad your out there doing things yourself and learning, too many kids these days don’t know how to build anything.
Dry mixing is fine for a fence. Wouldn’t advise for this
the generations are supposed to pass their knowledge down..... so its not the kids fault they werent taught.
He’s messing up lol. He’s not a builder
@@wilderstewart9917couldn't have said it better
Yes this Taylor... you don't have a joint between the your support posts meeting in the open air. That's a super weak point! It is also a big spot for bowing.
Greatest Taylor quote ever!!! " If your not in a good mood not feeling yourself. Just build something, you will feel better." The most Taylor Ray thing ive heard lol I've watched since you just finished the ls miata great work bro's.
I bet you're planning on putting a deck above the lean-to and having a door going to it from the loft inside ;)
Boy, I hope not.
Perfect timing for a T-Ray video!
You may want to put some 45 degree bracing at the posts to keep it from racking lengthwise.
That was the first thing that I saw too......No Y braces.
I just commented the same thing
Also a flashing strip at the top will do ya much better and longer than a bead of silicone.
@@magblevinsyup, that’s why I bought a metal break to make em 😂 way better then just silicone
Only other thing I'd say is gonna have to trim those panels or scab some extensions on those rafters cause 2ft overhang isn't gonna do well in hurricane season
It would be worth adding some diagonal bracing between the 4x4 posts and the 4x4 that you landed the rafters on. With the wind loads that you get down there, it would add a lot of stiffness to the rear of the lean-to. A rear fascia board across the end of the rafters would dress up the ends and also help tie everything together at the outside end.
Exactly what I was thinking. It would also help keep those 2x6’s more dry versus being bare.
Those things are called corbels. He should at least use some longer ones to help support the splice.
I was thinking of doing a piece of flashing at the end if I can find something. But a board will work too! And I do plan to ad Y braces in before we paint everything.
Next time maybe paint every piece first, then do the assembly, and then just touch up paint? 95% easyer and faster.
I think I enjoy your home projects more than the car stuff it's crazy I think it's your uncanny ability to connect with us you talk just enough and you work just enough and you make it in a way we can understand it and your videography is great as well it's not too much it's not too little it's blue collar and great
So, a couple of things:
the board attached to the shop is usually referred to as a ledger board.
the supports for the roof are referred to as rafters.
usually the horizontal support beam would be made up of 3-2X6s (or larger) laminated with offset splices not butted on the ends.
roof pitch is usually given as 1 in 12 (1:12) pitch up to 12:12 pitch not in terms of degree of slope.
the boards 1X4 that one screws the roofing into are usually referred to as strapping.
concrete achieves full strength after 28 days.
This is from my experience in constructing houses.
the build looks good for someone not versed with wood frame construction
Great advice by far!!
Stringers are stairs 😂 good for Taylor for getting after it and learning
I knew I had the name wrong for the roof supports. Wood is not my forte which is why I really wanted to build this out of steel. But after getting yanked around by several suppliers. Not being able to get the material. I decided to just give it a shot with wood. Clearly steel building methods + a few inches don’t translate to wood. That said I’m sure it’ll hand in until I have time to build it how I really wanted to from the start.
Also, to the people who comment with things like “you should have done xyz stick to cars” this is how you critique someone’s work. Constructive. Information. Would it have been great if I spent a week doing research before building this. Sure. But I don’t really have the time for that. Would it be better if I hired someone. Probably. But would I have learned anything in the process. No. Did I learn in this process. Absolutely. That’s what matters.
@Taylordrifts
you will never rebuild it until it fails.
Looks good.
Eventually close it in. Lol
Bets on how long it last before the roof sags or hurricane takes it off?
It’ll sag in a year or two, probably. But he’s using joist hangers, post-to-beam brackets, and hurricane straps. Between that and the number of trees in the area, I’d bet he doesn’t have issues with hurricanes, unless it’s a big one.
Yep, 4x4 beam will sag, should marry a 2x6 on each face asap
Just for future reference, If your uprights are 10' apart use 10' 4x4s for the cross bar. You'll tie the joints together with the post bracket and hide all your joints at the same time. Just a little cleaner way of doing it
Looks good I would have used 2x8 for that distance and lot more of a pitch for the roof but your in Fla so you don’t have to worry about snow ⛄️ but definitely need some cross bracing for 4x4 for the wind loads
Yeah in hindsight that makes more sense. I was trying to minimize the joints. But as you said. That would have tied them together better. One of those things. I built it in my head and definitely overlooked a few things. But. I learned! Will do better next time. Long term I would like to build it out of steel. I just wanted to get something done to keep moving on the shop upgrades. I’m definitely not used to accounting for wood sagging over time. Etc etc.
@@Taylordrifts Unlike many others, as you say, you continue learning.
In 20 years, if we still hang around youtube or the next platform, maybe we will see you with a sickass rig doing some woodwork, maybe a cabin (house size) in the woods ^^'
@@Taylordrifts What you did with the bracket in the middle is fine. Probably not going to get much snow. You'd be amazed at what the code allows you to do with screws and brackets.
You need to put some lag bolts into the poles running on the inside of the building if not the first big wind will rip that top down.
You can’t run lag bolts into steel. Through bolts were my original plan. However i didn’t love the idea of drilling massive holes in my shop walls.
@Taylordrifts then at least go on the inside and run some screws from the inside out to the wood or put two corner poles or something else that wall metal is only 28 Gauge still
@Taylordrifts and they do have a bigger screw with a self Tapping end its just like a lag bolt
You need another sea container with side doors for out the back to put the air compressor and tyre machine inside. Will give you more space with in the shop and reduce noise in the shop.
You are going to want flashing between the ledger and the building. Unfortunately, there is no way (that I know of) to do this 100% properly after the rafters have already been hung. I built pretty much this exact kind of lean too off of my shop, and I did not properly flash it. It lasted about 7 years before the ledger rotted and I had to demolish the entire thing and start over. About the only thing I can suggest at this point, outside of 'step back and punt', is just to seal the living crap out of the space where the roof meets the wall, and reseal it every year or so.
And, if you have not already put the metal on, I would come back in and flash over the ledger board as good as you can, working around the rafters.
I forgot to mention the flashing. Lol
I can’t find anywhere to get flashing. It’s tough to do this kind of stuff when you’re not a contractor with accounts. I was considering using the RV tar tape at that joint to seal it. And keep the roof panels as tight to the shop wall as possible.
@@Taylordriftsjust bend your own, you can get aluminum flashing at home depot in a roll
Check out zip tape since you have already framed
I would have pulled a sheet of tin back, since it's horizontal, and stuffed custom flashing up behind it, bent from the same tin so it fits the curvature fine. This is the proper way to prevent a future leak there, but the foam makes this challenging.. Without flashing at least 4 inches vertical behind the tin, and 4-6 inches under/over the exterior new roof, it will likely leak into your nice shop and down the wall within the year...
Taylors youtube comment section has got to be my favorite by far! Such an awesome/knowledgeable community here.
I saw your comment where you said your dad passed long ago so you had to teach yourself most of what you know, lost the comment and couldnt find it again but I thought I'd share: My Dad passed 15 years ago when I was 13 years old. Prime age for getting learnt some stuff. I didnt get to learn a lot and have had to teach myself on many occassions. I have to say that I've been able to tackle a lot of around the house projects just by watching you and some other DIY projects here on youtube. I was fairly familiar with basic vehicle maintenance as well, but watching your channel gave me confidence to do some more advanced maintenance. I changed my brakes on both of my vehicles by myself successfully. Had my ASE certified buddy come check my work to be totally safe but it gave me confidence to know that I can learn things like that on my own using the internet and common sense + preexisting knowledge. There will always be critics man, but a lot of people seem to forget where they came from. I'm just happy you shared your experience and knowledge with us and a lot of us will learn from it and hope we can all continue sharing knowledge. Thanks for what you do T-ray, you da man.
A 2x6 can only span around 12’6” before it will begin to sag. Your beam at the end would ideally be double 2x8’s with a 1/2” piece of treated plywood between them. And your ledger should be a 2x8. Any joints in a joist or beam should be at a post. It’s too late for all these things. You will want to add a flashing after your roof goes on, to protect the ledger. Even though it’s treated, it will still rot. The caulk will hold moisture. Get some L flashing, and fasten it to the wall, and use a urethane caulk to seal the flashing to the wall, then run your siding screws into it.
Oh, and every hole in a Simpson hanger or strap should have a nail in it.
Josue is a gift. Make sure you keep him happy. :)
Get this man to a million subs! This has literally became one of my favorite channels. I love the variety of one day vehicles, next day concrete, next day shop projects. Its just so fun to see the evolution of everything. Slowly but surely making amazing things come to fruition. 10/10 would recommend.
Looking forward to the boys making the top side a balcony and putting a level two door from the inside mez out.
I'm so hyped for this. Man I know im getting old now where this is just as exciting as a 1k+ hp drift vette laying down smoke.
I would move the stacker to the corner of the tire machine , once that is done move the welding and grinding stations under the stacker since they are mobile , the wheel stations move them to the side where the grinding stations are now , that way you will have a 20 x 20 loft area instead of two 10 x 20 sections on the both sides of the stacker.
If I remember right he said he wanted the stacker in the middle so he can bring cars in and out the back door on and off the stacker
I love that you are getting in and doing it all yourself. Sure, it might not be perfect but it just goes to show what can be done with basic tools and knowledge. Really fires me up to try and tackle something like this knowing that you dont need to be a builder to make something perfect for your own needs! Love the content!
Man o man it looks good! Why didn't you think about making the cover a deck for the 2nd floor? to help lock the framing in place and to prevent lateral movement, Add a 4x4 or 4x6 notched knee brace(picture upside down peace sign) at each post and use some 6" or 8" TimberLok/GRK screws so that it does not sway as much in the wind or act as a possible sail. Otherwise, it looks great and I love how you use hardware!! Those looked like H1a or H1 and LUS26, if they are simpson. for the end rafters, use H2.5a's. I am a Senior estimator for a top 5 national Lumber yard. I personally would have done a 2-2x10 beam at the same spacing you did and then used 2x8's for rafters due to span and I am a big guy that would have to attached the tin/metal roof.
PS- If your metal siding seem is just above your ledger location on the wall , look at maybe finding some "Coil Stock" from Lowe's that matches your siding and break it to just past a 90 so that you can add a transition flashing with the Coil Stock and fasten down to the new metal roof. and silicone the flashing up under the metal siding before re-attaching the siding. Good Luck!!
Taylor your the only one on youtube that can make this style of content work, keep it going been loving the videos, been watching since you picked up the miata with adam
I agree. I'm all in on the content whether it's car builds, bus builds, or shop builds.
Helping my dad with his overland gladiator build today got me feeling like a professional so I’m definitely picking up a work shirt
Get yourself a Cleetus tshirt that says
Stand back I build this.
As someone who knows almost nothing about woodworking and building things in general I enjoy these to the fullest. Funny how my interests have changed as i've aged(about to turn the big 30) so I feel like I'm almost learning along with you. The criticism in your comment section is awesome too, no finger pointing, just a bunch of dudes aiding along in the process. Keep up the good work guys!!
Objective achieved - you got it built so you can store stuff when building a mezzanine inside.
But the best thing is you did it yourself & you’v learned from the experience.
It is impossible to do something we haven’t done before & nail it 100% perfect every time. Even with a heap of research you’d likely be doing it with different tools than your teaching source & each job has different solutions for different problems that only get found through experience.
I reckon you did great!!
shop vids may be my fav vids so far! cant wait to have my own place like to to work on!
Your lumber dimensions seem way too small for the distances involved, especially if you figure wind loads. 4x6 posts as a minimum. 2x10 ledger with 2x10 rafters, 2x4 stringers and a triple 2x10 beam might pass minimum code recommendations. 22:05
No snow load ... 2x8 is fine
Next time just drop a sono tube. Fill it with concrete. And stick in a post bracket. Makes measuring it out much easier much faster.
Nice work and a great addition, 16' span on those 2x6's is way to long though, they will sag over time just from their own weight.
This is why I work with steel. Should have stuck to my original plan. I have very limited wood experience. But it’s so much easier to get an projects worth than steel.
@Taylordrifts see how long it last then rebuild it better with steel once you got the loft you can do a porch or patio which would still help with cover the stuff underneath
These shop addition videos really be getting me juices flowing
Tip for next time you have to mix concrete by hand: grab an extra one of those clear tarps and you and your buddy each take a side grabbing 2 corners each. from there you dump your bag of concrete on the tarp and add your water. then youll basically be lifting/rolling the concrete back and forth between the two of you until it mixes up well enough to pour. and you can pour directly from the tarp which makes that part easier too.
When you said if you are in a bad mood just go build something. I 100% agree and have used that distraction to create some very kool stuff. When I retired I build a ManCave in 1000 sq ft. industrial spot. 1/4 shop, 1/4 recording studio, 1/4 Man Cave, 1/4 full kitchen. Geez, oh yeah, I am suffering. Have really enjoyed your journey since the house search. Respect bro!
Here in Canada, 4x4s require to be cemented 3 feet down, and that’s with a 10 inch sonotube. Im a carpenter who works for a contractor, we always use sonotubes for cement. Apparently it’s better then just pouring it into the hole. But 3 feet is usually the go 2 for depth of concrete. Your discretion on sonotube size or hole width. Over all the work looks good in my books! Maybe add some Y bracing like someone else said up at the top. Stop it from shifting sideways!
And I agree with Taylor! Just build somethin! Have Fun, learn, gets you out of any hard/dark times! Another add, in Canada we have 1x3s! Idk if y’all get them down there. What sucks about canada is that a lot of our A grade quality wood goes to y’all, and we get the B grades. B grade tends to be rougher, not as nice, more knots. Stuff like that. And we give y’all the nice A grade! So I love seeing work done like this in America!
I don’t think the ground in Florida ever freezes, so you don’t have have to worry about being below the frost line. And it hurts me every time I see someone put wood into concrete in the ground, it will rot away over time no matter what.
@@joec9680 I know some old dudes who drill a whole in the post and oil it ever so often for fencing. I wonder if you could flex seal the part of the post in the ground, and if that would help. I’d assume so? I think it would
@@joec9680 and you’re right, they don’t gotta worry about the frost line! I was just talkin about up here. But it’s still good to go deeper if you can, leverage over time does crazy things.
There are easy ways to get good deals on steel. I definitely agree you did this perfectly for a home gamer. This is satisfying to watch. Excited to see how you get the trailer cover and bus parking area done. That being said..... look into local government and richie bros auctions in your life. If you can wait for the right time, you will get the best materials cheaper than wood. Just something I learned doing this kind of stuff over the nearly 40 years I've been alive. My dad taught me this kind of stuff since I can remember.
If the board that is on the outside of the building is lined up with the board on the inside of the building for your floor . You could run bolts through both parts . And make it way stronger than it would be with screws or nails .
Looks good man! Cleaning out our shop atm too, treasures everywhere!
cool lean-to! what are you going to use for flashing up under the wall sheet metal and on top of the roofing panels? without flashing, the ledger board will get wet and rot.
The header boards at the roofline of the lean-to should be bolted into the framework/studs of the shop
Just wanna say I love these shop/side project upgrades you put out. As someone who’s working to having something similar to this when I finally get my piece of land, this is more then adequate to fill that need and fuel the fire.
Shop videos are always great! Man, I want a stacker lift like that. I need it for all my projects.
There are a lot of great videos and good advise from friends about how to do a project like this, but in my experience you learn best by doing things the best you know how and finding out by living with it what you would do differently next time. Nice project, thanks for sharing!
Giving me real inspiration to build my pole barn, reminding us that you tore down the old shop to build what suits your needs because what I need now might not work for what ill need later, and what you said at 15:32
Thanks for plugging your merc!!! Designs look updated and fresh. Love the work man
Steve Wallis would absolutely love your foliage behind the shop for stealth camping. 🤣
Definitely should do more of the work shirts I missed out!
The Milwaukee cordless saws are fantastic. It’s amazing how good they really are. They only use my corded sees on the job site is at the plywood pile. Only because it can cut 3 sheets at once 3/4”.
Crazy, i just built a big 18 foot leantoo off of my 30x50 shop. But added it to the side so have 18x50 feet of storage! Good work!
I would have pulled permits and added a guess suit loft with a garage add-on. Since nice job fellas.
Brother, grab some headlamps and keep plugging along! Sometimes when the days get shorter gotta do what you gotta do.
Finally the loft project begins, i'm hyped af for it lets goooo!
I love to see how Josue gets more and more comfortable in front of the camera.
He's a solid guy for sure!
Awesome improvement but add some triangle braces so it stays square in the next big wind storm
You should get one of those handheld double whisk concrete mixers
This doesn’t count towards your total shop footprint? I know when you were trying to find/build something you mentioned permits and shops are only allowed to be a certain size compared to your total lot Sq ft.
Looks good, will for sure add more usable space, I would have cut those 4x4 cross braces into 3 pieces and landed them on the posts tho, would make for a much cleaner more professional look
Always climbing and progressing.. it’s incredible to see how far you have come since first getting the Miata to now.. absolutely amazing Taylor keep it up brotha 📈
Such a satisfying result!
I'm old lol, 52 yrs old. Been a carpenter my whole life. I did a 16x16 lean too off the back of my house for covered patio space. I used 4x6 posts so I could notch the tops for my doubled up 2x8 beam. You can carriage bolt threw post ears from your notch and tie post/beam securely together. I just worry your 4x4 "beam" may sag over time. You have a great attitude and build cool stuff. That's why I watch...
Great job, fellas! That is all!
How about add the horizontal frame pieces before concrete. That way most of the dimensions will be held solid before concrete.
Would have been cool to do a hangout spot up there and a door from the inside loft
I don’t known if you will see this but a good idea when your done with that is make a tarp system for the sides so it’s easy access buts it also covered from the side elements as well
can't wait for the loft build
Sweet! Nice work Taylor you def have some carpentry skills. Instead of pouring a concrete slab I was thinking you could use 4 inches of pea gravel that you could compact yourself.. That's what I did on my lean-to off my garage 6 years ago and it works like a champ even up here in northern Vermont.
A tip for using screws without splitting the wood is to rub the screws on a bar of soap and get them coated with soap and then screw them in the wood.
Let’s go boy!!!! Love the builds!
I can’t wait to see this finished and this loft get started on! So much potential with a loft inside
I see that you don't need to account for any snow load to your structures 😜
I find the way you put your poles down a bit strange.
At least here in Norway, we would avoid any direct contact between wood and dirt, because it rots very quickly.
We would pour the concrete in the ground and put the poles on top of a galvanized foot bracket tied to the concrete above ground.
But anyways, love to watch your videos, keep posting :)
The merch looks fire. I love the GB logo, kind of has that group d logo vibe
Pretty great looking build so far but I do have a few suggestions to make it even better!
First off, I've seen a lot of other people mention it, but having the break in the cross-pieces land on top of the posts would probably be better. But I also see you acknowledged that in several other comments.
The other thing I saw that I didn't really see mentioned in other comments is that I feel like there should be something between the ledger board that you attached to the side of the metal building and the metal siding as a sort of moisture barrier. I know you mentioned that you caulked the top side of it and I'm sure after you have the metal roof panels on, there will be flashing to direct water away as well, but I'd still be worried about if there is any sort of moisture (especially since you're in Florida) that gets trapped between the wood and the metal. It obviously will help a ton to keep rain out to have the caulking and flashing, but I'd still think there's a decent possibility of moisture getting trapped there and rotting out your ledger board.
Nice work guys!
Should put a deck off the loft above the lean-to. Would be a killer hang out area.
Notice the day to night transition getting wood? That's them going through and trying to find straight pieces. 🤣
Looks amazing Taylor it would also be so awesome to see something similar to this on the other side but obviously bigger to fit that nice new trailer and maybe use some sort of gravel instead of concrete alot cheaper.
Love the content! If you give the pressure treated wood some time to dry out in the sun and give it a good coat of primer, the paint will hold up much longer-learned that the hard way 😂
I drive a big truck and that was some good backing onto garage! That was tight!
At first I was concerned that you didn't have enough slope for the lean-too roof... then I remembered you don't have to worry about snow!
I’ve slowly gotten used to watching UA-camrs in Florida make these… construction is so different with snow.
Been looking for an excuse to buy a work-shirt and the perfect opportunity showed up!
Run your pad a few feet past the end so you have a walk way that’s out of the grass and if you ever wanna inclose a end wall it will be a lot easier. Could even do a few feet wide walk way down the side of the shed to the lean too as well if you getting a concrete truck in. No hand mix if you wanna do it later on.
If you set your hose to mist and spray it over the concrete mix as you are emptying the bags into the wheel barrow, you will stop a lot of the concrete dust coming up while being light enough water that you won't risk over wetting the mix.
Alternatively, you can just put the mix in dry using the same method to stop dust coming out of the hole. Only downside to putting it in dry is that it takes a hell of a lot longer to set up.
Great Job
Tip for next time you put a post in the ground... Coat it in truck bed liner 6 inches above the concrete fill line... It will last for an eternity... But if it were me, I would do the entire post... Only because they are the only other anchors besides the header on the building for a lean to...
YESSSSS One step closer to te loft build
I would do some rafter blocks between the rafters to add some rigidity. It doesn't take much wood, and will be well worth it in added structural integrity of your roof, especially if you plan on walking on it to screw down the metal roofing.
I’d let you build me a race car or a lean to, all day long! Props for getting after it and getting it done!
The end rafters you can use a Simpson h25 twist strap
Nice work. Definitely satisfying to build it yourself.
I really enjoy watching these shop videos. Keep em coming yo.
You could have used 4x6 on top of the 4x4 posts and Simpson strong ties have every bracket available to take care of what your doing. If I remember correctly you used H1 and h2.5 brackets
nice project, as a jack of all trades I really enjoy the non car content too!
seeing a Taylor ray post on my feed is the greatest day of the week every single time!🤘
If you're going to be doing more evening/night work outside getting some of Milwaukee's big battery powered work lights might be a good idea. I've seen people like Ron Pratt at Midwest Truck light up large crash scenes when he's cleaning them up at night; they appear to work really well.
Love watching you work - gives me motivation to keep working on my projects.
awesome work guy's !
oh! i like the screws in the posts for the cement to grab onto! very good idea TRay!
Taylor you should do a drag build on the monte carlo!