Fiber I used: amzn.to/3Dbksrt Switch: amzn.to/3MKb7tW SFP: amzn.to/3TqonWO - Check out JUST ANSWER for professional help when you need it: justanswer.9pctbx.net/VyQGZE
Use singel mode fiber(yellow) insted off multimode fiber. price is about the same and it can go longer, and it can handel 100gbit+ and support for mux if you need TB speed.
I was definitely fortunate with this one. What you saw in this video was just as it happened. I had no idea if it would go bad or if the pipe was broken in the middle. I had planned to use lube and prelube the pipe but with the water I figured that might be enough. I wonder what they planned to run in the pipe someday, maybe phone or coax. I think we were at CAT3 cable at that time still if even that much,
@@alexandercruz8346 He's got Starlink. A 10Gig connection can still be useful even if your internet isn't that fast. For things like data transfers in your home network it's really handy. Think about streaming multiple 4k movies from let's say a PLEX server you have set up at home. You have all the movies on some harddrive in one of you computers or even a dedicated server and can stream to many different clients in your home network.
@@jrdwiz Speaking from my experience not a lot of people I know have set up a proper home network. I tried my best to pull cables at home but I live in an ancient farm building and have super thick walls. I can make do with Wifi for the most part right now but I need a lot of APs to cover the whole living area. My network speeds top out at 1Gig but it's fine for now and it's surprisingly reliable. I "only" get 100Mbit fiber into my house, but I can live with that in my rural area. I was really surprised when they offered fiber here where I live. It's 40 bucks a month for that, the Gigabit option is still way too expensive, around $100 or something like that.
When you added an additional pull cord incase you need it in the future, it reminds me of why this is such a great channel. Very clever and I never would think to do smart things like that
Agreed. I listened in the car yesterday and was wondering how you pull anything else in the future. I re-watched today at home and was happy to see you add that string. I hope I'm that smart next time I pull a cable.
Using cat 5 cable is somewhat wasteful. For our water pump for example we used multi string steel wire with plastic coating. I can't be sure what's cost more in your area, but that thing is in water for more than a decade and can still pull a 20 kg pump from 15m with no problems.
I was ready to comment this if he hadn't touched on it. I can't tell you the number of times I've encountered or heard stories of someone finding conduit where they had to use an existing cable to pull a new run with two strings so they could then pull that first run back through and hook it back up.
A lot of times when I would install ethernet through conduit that already had a pull string... I would attach a new line to it like he did, but afterwards I would pull it back so there was just the original string (if it was good). I didn't always do this but if you don't need to replace it, then don't.
I have been watching your channel for a little over a year now. I love the diversity of subjects that you bring to the table. From lawn work to diy electrical projects! Thanks for this fiber video! Fiber can be scary for some, this video Shows how simple it can be to install it yourself! Thanks again!
I was lucky when we purchased our home because the previous homeowner had run hard lines to all the rooms and a fiber optic cable from the main closet to the room above our garage. We only use wifi for our phones and tablets and everything else in our home is on wire or fiber optic. Great video.
I absolutely love that you have transitioned on to ALL things! I subscribed because of your lawn maintenance videos but you just keep expanding in to so many other areas of home/car repair. So glad I subscribed! I always look forward to your videos!
I would recommend running single mode fiber instead of mulitmode. Single mode fiber unlike mulitmode is future proof and will do basically any speed. Pricing is also very similar nowadays. Like cat cable, multi mode fiber has gone through faster and faster versions. Single mode is still the same and still supports up to the highest speed.
Came here to say this. Single mode is the only way to go for any fiber run except for specialty stuff in data centers. The only speed limit is the electronics. They've pushed fiber to over 400 terabit already
What's the actual difference between single and multi? Is it the type/quality of glass used? It doesn't seem to have any bearing on end connector type from what I can tell. Can you use a SM LC cable on the ubiquitous MM transcievers? Looks like you could also use OM5 cable and be good up to 100Gb, assuming MM equipment stays around in the future. Although unless you're a business, utilizing full 10Gb even on a moderate HDD based NAS isn't very common. With 2 VDEVs in my NAS I'm only hitting about 5Gb/s sustained transfer speeds between my editing machine and nas for large files. For very short bursts between an SSD and the NAS RAM cache, it can hit 8-9Gb/s, but not very long obviously. The problem is 10G switches are now just starting to become reasonably priced for the average consumer, I haven't even looked up 40G or 100G switches but I assume they're expensive still? Last I looked 40G transceivers were still in the hundreds. I got my 10G ones for like $25.
@@andrewt9204 the main difference is the diameter of the fiber. SM is much smaller so signals bounce less on the sidewalls resulting in less loss. My ISP offers 25gbit and said in around 2 years expect 100gbit. I don't want to run something that is slower than the SM coming into the house.
@@sschueller Multi-mode can run 100 Gbit/s as well. Single mode is used for distance. No provider would offer services through an OSP through multi-mode because of that. So for shorter distance runs through single mode we commonly have to use attenuator pads on the fiber to take the signal down to an operable dB level to ensure the optics work properly and are not damaged over time from the signal being too hot.
a few tips as some others have pointed out. 1. you shouldn't use that OM3 patch cord that you used for anything but indoor use. You should run either indoor/outdoor, direct burial, or gel filled outdoor rated fiber as the water will break down the jacket of the type you used over time whereas the indoor/outdoor rated is manufactured to resist the ingress of water. Although when using the direct burial type it is usually armored and needs to be properly grounded. 2. you should use a pulling eye on the end of the fiber for pulling though conduit which has a turnbuckle on the end that swivels to keep the fiber from twisting while being pulled.
I disagree for DIY purposes. If I was installing for a customer, I would definitely use the right cable and the pulling eye to avoid a callback - callbacks are very painful for businesses and should be avoided. Also, downtime for business customers can be very expensive for them. But for home DIY, in the worst case you have to replace your fibre. It's cheap. Just replace it. DIYers, don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. Yes the process in this video is not best practice. But it will work fine for most of you.
I’m a believer in pay once, cry once. I rein the same type of fiber in my house from the basement to the second floor. It worked great for a while, but somehow I ended up moving the fiber optic cable just the right way, or should I say the wrong way, and it stopped working. I’ve using a Cat8 why are they can easily run 10 GB plus, haven’t had a problem since. The right cable isn’t that much more expensive, do it one time right, it’ll last you a lifetime. Another advantage is if you run higher grade cable when the world gives the point where 10 GB is slow, you’re already proved it.
Just a suggestion - if you have any trunk needs (bridging two buildings or floors for instance), you may want to consider a fiber trunk cable. With single-mode fiber, going from a cable that has a single pair of fibers to 12 pairs, or even 24 pairs can be reasonably affordable (most of the costs are in the external protection of the fiber bundles, not just in the fibers, so scaling can drive the cost per fiber much lower), and the cable diameters aren't huge (read about tight-buffer vs. loose tube). You can choose to just lay that extra trunk cable "just in case", then terminate it when you actually need it.
It's a great idea, some things I would add though. 1. SFP is not 10G rated; you need an SFP+ capable transceiver and switch. 2. Do not use a OM3/4 patch cable outside or really, outside a rack (though you can - situation dependent). Use a rated, outdoor fiber cable (preferably armored) - a tad more expensive, but will last longer. 3. You need to consider multi-mode versus single-mode depending on the distance; given you are under 1000 feet, cheaper multi-mode is fine. (but again something to consider)
Clever trick to avoid stressing the fiber connectors. I've been over the last year installing CAT6A in the house to try to future proof the best I can.
As a networking guy, I would highly recommend going with single-mode fiber. It's much more future-proof and can run farther. To be clear, there is NOTHING wrong with multi-mode; single mode is just the preferred method.
Hmm, we could have a long discussion on this one. I have worked with single mode in campus settings for years but for a home environment or distances that will always be under 2000 feet multimode will always be a much more economical choice. But as you said either could work.
@@SilverCymbal cost used to be a major factor but now they’re almost the same price. Amazon shows a $1 difference in a 50M spool. I always default to single mode as I know no matter how far I go even cheap transceivers can run 40 KM (which is insane to think about). So if I have a long run I can always get a little extra to make sure I have room for incorrect measurements and not have to worry about it. But MM fiber still works great and I have still have thousands of feet deployed that works great everyday. SM just gives me a little extra wiggle room and future proofing. All in all it all depends on the use case which works perfectly for your situation. Great video! People don’t need to spend thousands to get internet to a garage.
@@qazsedcftgbhujmkolp4401 In terms of MSRP, sure. But look at SMF vs MMF in terms of what you can actually buy, especially when considering future-proofing. 40GBASE-LR4 and friends can be found secondhand for
Single mode is a much better option IMHO. With MMF, you WILL have to replace it in 5-10 years, with SMF you will most likely never need to replace it. The cost differences for both cables and optics are next to nill these days, but the performance and future proofing benefits are huge - you can run 100Gbps duplex links on a single SMF cable from the 90's with a BiDi transciever, whereas even just last-gen MMF is now outdated and has no upgrade path (unless your run is very very short).
Regarding the water in your underground conduit, that is very typical. In fact underground conduits are usually considered to be wet locations. The water can collect over time due to condensation as air moves in and out of the conduit with changes in barometric pressure and the coolness of the underground conduit. One method of mitigating the condensation is to plug the ends of the conduit with duct seal which is a mold able compound that can be removed later if needed.
Fellow NH UA-camr here and I got to say this video makes me want to build another building on my property just to run fiber to it. Too bad winter is coming! Great video!
you inspired me to do it. DIY is best. I now have 10 gig all over the house. Very well made vdo. I love it when you shook your head when the kid was asking question about the water. 10 gig, you can copy 20 gig under 2 mins.
This is fine, I'm sure it will work for years unless that water freezes and maybe even then since it's such a short run. I just wanted to throw this option out there. Fiber Store will custom make you fiber cables. This is what we use outdoors: MG-OS2XXXF (just search it on their website) You can get up to 24 fibers in the same cable, specify the length and connectors. The cable is armored so no issues with it getting physically damaged and it can be pulled without issue. They can add a pulling eye to it to attach a pull string. There is also the option to stagger the connectors so they can be pull through small openings. This is a single mode cable so get the appropriate SFP modules. It's going to cost slightly more but it's a more robust solution that an indoor patch cable. Just a personal preference thing. I like to use the SC connectors with BiDi modules. That allows you to use a single fiber per module. It does this by using a different wavelength of light at each end. My preference for SC connector is just that I think they are easier to deal with and clean.
absolutely love these new uploads. Might follow this tutorial as wifi in my suburban area is actually worse then yours beleive it or not. no company, carrier wants to run wires or satellite wifi in my region!
From someone who supported and troubleshooted real Networking. Its not too hard to significantly improve connectivity. The trick is to identify where the bottle neck is and there always seems to be one. Sometimes in the most unlikely places trust me. As long as you understand that you can continue to increase the total throughput. Im a great believer in increasing thoughput. By the way have you seen the distance you can succesfully rn 10 Gig over copper and yes you can do it. Good luck with your project. Nice to see some Gbics in use.
a unsealed pipe will collect water via condensation. The Air will contain moisture which will condense below ground and accumulate over time. I recommend pulling more than a single pair incase there is an issue with the only of the fiber connections. For my Run I used ST connnections since you can always switch out one fiber connection as apposed to a duplex. I like ST since the are unlikely to come loose over time either from temperature swings or vibration.
PERFECT VIDEO! I was puzzled how I was gonna connect the conduit to the house and I see those pull boxes, extremely helpful. Now I just need to figure out how to install that PVC lol
I build Fibre Optic networks for a major mobile telecoms company. We are pushing up to 8.8Tbps (i.e. 8,800 Gbps ) on one pair of fibres between our node sites. Bandwidths are still going up beyond that. Never-ending drive for speed.....
Whoever ran that string in the past was Brilliant. What a huge foresight. Also.. GREAT suggestion on your part to replace the original string from the get go
If you don't have a pull string ran in empty conduit, just tie a plastic bag to a new pull string, stuff it in the conduit, and use a shop vac on the opposing end. The shop vac will suck the plastic bag through the conduit along with the new pull string.
Definitely leave a pull string in when putting in buried conduit. In addition to making it easier to pull next time, it helps to save the work of trying to pull through a collapsed conduit.
One tip - rather than using Cat5 for your pull cord, you can use what's called mule tape, which is purpose built for this type of application. It's also cheaper and has a higher pull capacity before it's compromised (hundreds of pounds vs. a couple dozen pounds before ethernet is comprimised). You do an excellent job of explaining things. Great work!
@@SilverCymbal if you are doing a run whare you may dig in the future make sure you have some sort of conditioner in with the fiber so it can be used to locate it
mule tape gets expensive fast though compared to just using what you have on you then putting it back in the box (or leaving in place as a future spare). We kept all the mule tape from doing manhole shots in the middle east, ours was rated to 2100 lbs lol. Came back and used it as rigging for small crane work (under 1T) after that deployment, that stuff is amazing. Tried to buy more later just to have on hand and holy crap it gets expensive fast compared to jet line which is fine for anything residential For example (residential again) You can get 6500 feet of jet for under 50 bucks, getting that much mule tape, even the light stuff, is gonna be hundreds
Here's a tip.. If you have a spool of fibre patch cable like this, put it in a bucket and it wont unspool and tangle.. it will feed in just nicely through your pipe.
I have a Ubiquiti setup, and was able to do 10 gigabit over ethernet between two buildings. I did run two cables, to I have a backup, but I would have gone this route if I had known how easy it was. Great video as always!
Like he said in the video, copper is ok between buildings, but you need lightning protection on both ends. Also, copper is susceptible to freezing so they make gel filled CAT6 cable for outdoor use if it ever goes below freezing. Can't have water in a conduit either or you are going to have a bad day eventually.
This is exactly what I did to my shop, had to put in my own conduit though. Singlemode fiber is the better choice though, you have more sfp options especially if you want to go beyond 10 gig.
If your string breaks or you don't have a pull string put your shop vac on one end of the conduit and feed the string in the other end. I've done this on some pretty long runs.
Brotip: When testing the fiber before running it: Make sure the heat shrink sleeve alternates colours on either side... Yellow white White yellow Or vice versa. If they're they same, break one end open using the side of a blade and swap one end. You can thank me later for saving you 6 hours of frustration.
@@franciscobenitez5651The SFP modules have a TX and an RX port. You need to alternate the fiber so that the TX of one module goes to the RX other. You do the same for the RX side, going to the TX.
I'm planning to have a similar situation in a few years. In my case, I plan to run through conduit, much like you, but I plan to get fiber that has at least some sort of armoring to protect it while pulling (also use pulling lube - helps alot). I've seen fiber that has metal shielding or strong fiber (like kevlar or similar) reinforcing. When they ran fiber to my house, the fiber they used had a tough outer sheathing then fiberglass? rods inside to help protect the fiber from bends and stretching. To terminate it, they used a fusion splicer to splice a patch cable on. It looks like there are new types of connectors coming on the market that make DIY termination possible. The main tools appear to be special strippers and a fiber cleaver. Neither are all that expensive (
you can always buy multistrand fiber that is preterminated to make installation easier. either way always get the outdoor rated cabling when your pulling though underground conduit.
@@ccoder4953 oh gotcha. obviously it doesn't matter if the fiber is preterminated. But yeah, being a Network Engineer I only have experience with professionally fusion spliced fiber, or the preterminated fiber. I dont know about these connectors.
Wow, this guy lives in the middle of the forest and he has 1GB internet speed I live in the city and the internet speed doesn't reach 200MB. Edit: I didn't mention it but I don't have fiber. All I have is a wireless router only.
I am really luck with that. I am setting up some new stuff that will use this fiber and combine all these things into one big network here but it is super economical. I am planning to share these videos in the near future. This link was the first big step, well after the Starlink tower of course.
And here in Australia I am stuck with fibre to the node/exchange and from the pit outside my house with a 30 year old copper cable from the pit to the point In my home. 40mbps maximum download speed only get about 12mbps on average.
I trenched out about 90ft to a location where Im building a shed. Ran two different conduits (one for power and the other data). I ended up assembling the 10ft sections piece by piece and ran the wires/LC fiber while assembling. I was worried trying to pull 2-2-2-4 MHF in 1.5" conduit was going to give me trouble. Totally dont need data out in a shed but I didn't want to regret not doing it. At least I'll be able to make the exterior lights smart and add a security camera or two to give me better coverage of the backyard.
I’ve had 12mbps Internet for years and finally getting fiber this week. Can’t fucking wait. All my life I’ve had shit or no internet while all my friends had it.
HUGE note - Make sure you have at least 1-2 Feet of Slack for Expansion/contraction on both ends for heat swings and temperature changes. And prevent abrasion from rubbing. Put cable lube with pipe and cable as well. Since you have water in there, You very well could have a future break in your fibre line as one end could expreience frozen in the ground while another end is contracting and pulling on it. I would have tried to get sheated or protected direct buriel line in that conduit instead of the thin line. Also i would have run at least 2-3 pairs of cat6 in the cable for future use, separate networks or more to goto a nice managed switch for vlans, security cameras etc. POE switches are LIFEsavers. I had 6 Runs of cat5e almost ruined from years of expansion contraction from +30 to -30c seasonal swings. Luckily i ran Two 1 inch conduits (data/future) and a 3" conduit (power) to garage.
Your tips and tricks are the best! Your advice last year to use shampoo as lube worked so well I decided to try the finger glove condom and it works amazing too!
Heads up with the indoor fibre used in water filled conduit. From my experience, the fibre will fail in about 4-5 years. Outdoor rated, gel filled is the better option for longevity.
Nice video….thanks. I have read on other sites that conduit bodies have too tight of a bend radius for fiber optics so I have been looking for other options to transition from my buried 2” pvc conduit to go into my steel building.
For people who are asking why a 10Gb/s home network. It's not only for the Internet 🙄. Some of us are using it for fast access to NAS with SSD cache for video editing and am sure there are a lot more other uses for 10G.
I'm personally not a fan of underground conduit, but that's just because I've spent the past couple decades dealing with poorly installed wiring conduits at gas stations. lol. Our US customers always seem to spec rigid pipe that's rated more for lateral strength than water intrusion. I much prefer direct burial cable, but I imagine that would be kind of pricy for 200+ feet of fiber optic. Not to mention a lot more work.
10 gig equipment is power hungry right now and also produces too much heat that small equipment sometimes overheats and drops connection just like the early 1gig equipment. Good job on picking 1 gig first.
Good content Silver Cymbal, and I'm glad you show yourself on video now, unlike your earlier videos. Just a helpful suggestion here, you may want to slow down just a bit when you're talking, especially since you're going over technical things. Just makes it a bit easier to digest and understand what you're saying.
That's a very nice compliment. For IT stuff that has been my job since I was 15 but for my DIY I like to try things & make many mistakes but eventually learn. You have to be willing to know that sometimes you mess up and it's ok and try it again.
People need to pay attention to minimum bend radius for fiber or you can end up with intermittent data transmission errors. I suggest using a piece of PVC of the right diameter and secure the cable to it for any bends. Existing conduit probably has bends tighter than spec but you may be fine. Standard SFP only support 1GB. SFP+ is needed for 10Gb.
Water can get in to the conduit due to Enzo being open or more likely and never getting covered doing construction. Also conversation is a method of water ingress. And depending on code, location and installer they don't necessarily have to be glued since the expectation is that it's going to be a wet install and water resistant cable should be run.
Plastic pipe is your friend. It's cheap and will protect your wires if you do any digging in the future; I'd say 3 to 5 inch pipe. Plus you if you oversize the pipe you can pull plenty of new wires in the future if/when you need it. Make sure to properly cap it. If your doing direct burial then always consider putting in hybrid or an extra cable with heavy gauge copper to carry DC if you at all suspect POE might be useful.
Consider running "outside plant" (OSP) fiber outside so water in the conduit doesn't damage it and use pulling lube. Water often gets into the conduit via condensing in the cooler part underground and by flooded vaults.
Yes, get ready !! We currently have 5 Gig residential circuits out as of last year and now installing and building the circuits to transmit 25 Gig residential in the very near future. Do you need that no, Over kill yes, bragging rights YES.
Yet I can't even get fiber even though a state capital city. Oh wait though...ATT took millions of dollars to run fiber to a few apartment buildings in the city so they can now say they have Fiber there
The electricity in each house is grounded. If you have two houses then you are already working with two ground points. If you then lay a copper cable, you will very quickly have phantom currents and ground loops. This can also happen in high-rise buildings with a lot of cables. Or if you connect several buildings on a large property. With fiber optics you get around the problem.
I have one that has a protective sleeve on it for underground use. but it will also go though a pipe. I have not done it yet but once I get the house redone then I will run the fiber though. In my office were the internet is at with my servers its all set up for 10G to all servers and computers with a 10gb switch. I will be getting a new switch that is 1gb POE with 10g uplink ports it will have 4 of them 2 will be linked while the other 2 will be used in the home if I ever want to do 10g to any devices the POE is for all my cameras and poe devices.
All i can see in the thumbnail is the outlet going 😲 and i can't believe i never saw it before 🤣🤣🤣 You're so very informative, i cannot use some of the knowledge in my apt for the obvious reasons, but i still enjoy sharing the videos with my home-owner friends 🧐😳🤔
Awesome video. I do own a business in IT and started a young adults ministry at my church. There's a small house on the church property, it's empty but would love to turn that place into a place where young adults can hang out or have any church activity there. the space between the house and church is far apart because of the parking lot. What is the best solution to bring fiber the church so the house can have internet?
Fiber I used: amzn.to/3Dbksrt Switch: amzn.to/3MKb7tW SFP: amzn.to/3TqonWO - Check out JUST ANSWER for professional help when you need it: justanswer.9pctbx.net/VyQGZE
Thx
Cool 😎
Use singel mode fiber(yellow) insted off multimode fiber. price is about the same and it can go longer, and it can handel 100gbit+ and support for mux if you need TB speed.
The switch you linked to only has SFP not SFP+ port, from what I see. Not 10gig
That cable is not outdoor rated.
Amazed at how seemingly easy it was for you guys to pull that cable through. Every time I've had to it involved soap, water, and anger.
I was definitely fortunate with this one. What you saw in this video was just as it happened. I had no idea if it would go bad or if the pipe was broken in the middle. I had planned to use lube and prelube the pipe but with the water I figured that might be enough. I wonder what they planned to run in the pipe someday, maybe phone or coax. I think we were at CAT3 cable at that time still if even that much,
@@SilverCymbal love how forward thanking they were
Still depends on your area, even if you have fiber network at home if ISP ransmission is throttled way below 10G its gonna be useless.
@@alexandercruz8346 He's got Starlink. A 10Gig connection can still be useful even if your internet isn't that fast. For things like data transfers in your home network it's really handy.
Think about streaming multiple 4k movies from let's say a PLEX server you have set up at home. You have all the movies on some harddrive in one of you computers or even a dedicated server and can stream to many different clients in your home network.
@@jrdwiz Speaking from my experience not a lot of people I know have set up a proper home network. I tried my best to pull cables at home but I live in an ancient farm building and have super thick walls. I can make do with Wifi for the most part right now but I need a lot of APs to cover the whole living area.
My network speeds top out at 1Gig but it's fine for now and it's surprisingly reliable. I "only" get 100Mbit fiber into my house, but I can live with that in my rural area. I was really surprised when they offered fiber here where I live. It's 40 bucks a month for that, the Gigabit option is still way too expensive, around $100 or something like that.
When you added an additional pull cord incase you need it in the future, it reminds me of why this is such a great channel. Very clever and I never would think to do smart things like that
Much appreciated, I learned all these lessons after making many mistakes. Glad I can help others learn from them
Agreed. I listened in the car yesterday and was wondering how you pull anything else in the future. I re-watched today at home and was happy to see you add that string. I hope I'm that smart next time I pull a cable.
Using cat 5 cable is somewhat wasteful. For our water pump for example we used multi string steel wire with plastic coating. I can't be sure what's cost more in your area, but that thing is in water for more than a decade and can still pull a 20 kg pump from 15m with no problems.
I was ready to comment this if he hadn't touched on it. I can't tell you the number of times I've encountered or heard stories of someone finding conduit where they had to use an existing cable to pull a new run with two strings so they could then pull that first run back through and hook it back up.
A lot of times when I would install ethernet through conduit that already had a pull string... I would attach a new line to it like he did, but afterwards I would pull it back so there was just the original string (if it was good). I didn't always do this but if you don't need to replace it, then don't.
"Are you stuck in the 90s?" Yes, yes I am.
I pretty much am too but I do like 10gig
1990’s: “This house has central air _and_ central vacuum!”
2020’s: “Did I hear aircooling _and_ tiny subways for my home networking?”
This man is running in the 90s
1930s
I have been watching your channel for a little over a year now. I love the diversity of subjects that you bring to the table. From lawn work to diy electrical projects! Thanks for this fiber video! Fiber can be scary for some, this video Shows how simple it can be to install it yourself! Thanks again!
That eye roll when feeding the line got me.
It was Phantastic 😂
I was lucky when we purchased our home because the previous homeowner had run hard lines to all the rooms and a fiber optic cable from the main closet to the room above our garage. We only use wifi for our phones and tablets and everything else in our home is on wire or fiber optic. Great video.
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I absolutely love that you have transitioned on to ALL things! I subscribed because of your lawn maintenance videos but you just keep expanding in to so many other areas of home/car repair. So glad I subscribed! I always look forward to your videos!
I would recommend running single mode fiber instead of mulitmode. Single mode fiber unlike mulitmode is future proof and will do basically any speed. Pricing is also very similar nowadays. Like cat cable, multi mode fiber has gone through faster and faster versions. Single mode is still the same and still supports up to the highest speed.
Sounds like you may have installed a dedicated circuit or two lol
Came here to say this. Single mode is the only way to go for any fiber run except for specialty stuff in data centers. The only speed limit is the electronics. They've pushed fiber to over 400 terabit already
What's the actual difference between single and multi? Is it the type/quality of glass used? It doesn't seem to have any bearing on end connector type from what I can tell. Can you use a SM LC cable on the ubiquitous MM transcievers?
Looks like you could also use OM5 cable and be good up to 100Gb, assuming MM equipment stays around in the future.
Although unless you're a business, utilizing full 10Gb even on a moderate HDD based NAS isn't very common. With 2 VDEVs in my NAS I'm only hitting about 5Gb/s sustained transfer speeds between my editing machine and nas for large files. For very short bursts between an SSD and the NAS RAM cache, it can hit 8-9Gb/s, but not very long obviously.
The problem is 10G switches are now just starting to become reasonably priced for the average consumer, I haven't even looked up 40G or 100G switches but I assume they're expensive still? Last I looked 40G transceivers were still in the hundreds. I got my 10G ones for like $25.
@@andrewt9204 the main difference is the diameter of the fiber. SM is much smaller so signals bounce less on the sidewalls resulting in less loss. My ISP offers 25gbit and said in around 2 years expect 100gbit. I don't want to run something that is slower than the SM coming into the house.
@@sschueller Multi-mode can run 100 Gbit/s as well. Single mode is used for distance. No provider would offer services through an OSP through multi-mode because of that. So for shorter distance runs through single mode we commonly have to use attenuator pads on the fiber to take the signal down to an operable dB level to ensure the optics work properly and are not damaged over time from the signal being too hot.
a few tips as some others have pointed out.
1. you shouldn't use that OM3 patch cord that you used for anything but indoor use. You should run either indoor/outdoor, direct burial, or gel filled outdoor rated fiber as the water will break down the jacket of the type you used over time whereas the indoor/outdoor rated is manufactured to resist the ingress of water. Although when using the direct burial type it is usually armored and needs to be properly grounded.
2. you should use a pulling eye on the end of the fiber for pulling though conduit which has a turnbuckle on the end that swivels to keep the fiber from twisting while being pulled.
I disagree for DIY purposes. If I was installing for a customer, I would definitely use the right cable and the pulling eye to avoid a callback - callbacks are very painful for businesses and should be avoided. Also, downtime for business customers can be very expensive for them. But for home DIY, in the worst case you have to replace your fibre. It's cheap. Just replace it.
DIYers, don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. Yes the process in this video is not best practice. But it will work fine for most of you.
Realistically, what's the time frame for breaking down something like that jacket? Are we talking like a year or like 10 years?
I’m a believer in pay once, cry once. I rein the same type of fiber in my house from the basement to the second floor. It worked great for a while, but somehow I ended up moving the fiber optic cable just the right way, or should I say the wrong way, and it stopped working. I’ve using a Cat8 why are they can easily run 10 GB plus, haven’t had a problem since. The right cable isn’t that much more expensive, do it one time right, it’ll last you a lifetime. Another advantage is if you run higher grade cable when the world gives the point where 10 GB is slow, you’re already proved it.
I'm doing a 200' run of cat6 to my new barn right now. Definitely going to pull some fiber with it now too!! Thanks for the vid!
So glad it was helpful, even if it takes some time it will basically be forever for you.
Make sure to put surge suppressors on each end of the cat6 and make sure they are properly grounded.
This will help greatly in the friction you'll encounter: www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Lubricant-Klein-Tools-51015/dp/B000MKH3BW
I'd go with Single Mode fiber with LC connectors. It supports higher speeds and longer runs. You can get 1000ft off Amazone for $200.
Just a suggestion - if you have any trunk needs (bridging two buildings or floors for instance), you may want to consider a fiber trunk cable.
With single-mode fiber, going from a cable that has a single pair of fibers to 12 pairs, or even 24 pairs can be reasonably affordable (most of the costs are in the external protection of the fiber bundles, not just in the fibers, so scaling can drive the cost per fiber much lower), and the cable diameters aren't huge (read about tight-buffer vs. loose tube).
You can choose to just lay that extra trunk cable "just in case", then terminate it when you actually need it.
It's a great idea, some things I would add though.
1. SFP is not 10G rated; you need an SFP+ capable transceiver and switch.
2. Do not use a OM3/4 patch cable outside or really, outside a rack (though you can - situation dependent). Use a rated, outdoor fiber cable (preferably armored) - a tad more expensive, but will last longer.
3. You need to consider multi-mode versus single-mode depending on the distance; given you are under 1000 feet, cheaper multi-mode is fine. (but again something to consider)
Clever trick to avoid stressing the fiber connectors. I've been over the last year installing CAT6A in the house to try to future proof the best I can.
As a networking guy, I would highly recommend going with single-mode fiber. It's much more future-proof and can run farther. To be clear, there is NOTHING wrong with multi-mode; single mode is just the preferred method.
Hmm, we could have a long discussion on this one. I have worked with single mode in campus settings for years but for a home environment or distances that will always be under 2000 feet multimode will always be a much more economical choice. But as you said either could work.
@@SilverCymbal cost used to be a major factor but now they’re almost the same price. Amazon shows a $1 difference in a 50M spool. I always default to single mode as I know no matter how far I go even cheap transceivers can run 40 KM (which is insane to think about). So if I have a long run I can always get a little extra to make sure I have room for incorrect measurements and not have to worry about it.
But MM fiber still works great and I have still have thousands of feet deployed that works great everyday. SM just gives me a little extra wiggle room and future proofing.
All in all it all depends on the use case which works perfectly for your situation. Great video! People don’t need to spend thousands to get internet to a garage.
Single mode cables aren't the problem; single mode equipment is more expensive.
@@qazsedcftgbhujmkolp4401 In terms of MSRP, sure. But look at SMF vs MMF in terms of what you can actually buy, especially when considering future-proofing. 40GBASE-LR4 and friends can be found secondhand for
Single mode is a much better option IMHO.
With MMF, you WILL have to replace it in 5-10 years, with SMF you will most likely never need to replace it.
The cost differences for both cables and optics are next to nill these days, but the performance and future proofing benefits are huge - you can run 100Gbps duplex links on a single SMF cable from the 90's with a BiDi transciever, whereas even just last-gen MMF is now outdated and has no upgrade path (unless your run is very very short).
Use outdoor/direct burial rated cable, even in the conduit. The water will get back in.
Regarding the water in your underground conduit, that is very typical. In fact underground conduits are usually considered to be wet locations. The water can collect over time due to condensation as air moves in and out of the conduit with changes in barometric pressure and the coolness of the underground conduit. One method of mitigating the condensation is to plug the ends of the conduit with duct seal which is a mold able compound that can be removed later if needed.
Many (most?) long-haul fiber trunks are pressurized (dry nitrogen) so they can tell when anything goes wrong.
Fellow NH UA-camr here and I got to say this video makes me want to build another building on my property just to run fiber to it. Too bad winter is coming! Great video!
you inspired me to do it. DIY is best. I now have 10 gig all over the house. Very well made vdo. I love it when you shook your head when the kid was asking question about the water. 10 gig, you can copy 20 gig under 2 mins.
This is fine, I'm sure it will work for years unless that water freezes and maybe even then since it's such a short run. I just wanted to throw this option out there. Fiber Store will custom make you fiber cables. This is what we use outdoors: MG-OS2XXXF (just search it on their website) You can get up to 24 fibers in the same cable, specify the length and connectors. The cable is armored so no issues with it getting physically damaged and it can be pulled without issue. They can add a pulling eye to it to attach a pull string. There is also the option to stagger the connectors so they can be pull through small openings. This is a single mode cable so get the appropriate SFP modules. It's going to cost slightly more but it's a more robust solution that an indoor patch cable.
Just a personal preference thing. I like to use the SC connectors with BiDi modules. That allows you to use a single fiber per module. It does this by using a different wavelength of light at each end. My preference for SC connector is just that I think they are easier to deal with and clean.
Once again you put out a great “how to vid”, always learning from your channel.
I appreciate that!
Great little breakdown on fiber. Good job on the pulling eye. Fiber optics has gotten so much easier for the everyday person.
For narrow conduits you can use BiDi SFP modules, which require only one connector per side, making it almost the same diameter as a cat6.
Bidirectional (WDM) SFPs, use single-mode fiber, which is more costly than duplex multi-mode.
@@markarca6360 BiDi transceivers work fine on OM3 your just distance limited to 500m for 1Gig and 200m for 10Gig. The cable he used was OM3.
absolutely love these new uploads. Might follow this tutorial as wifi in my suburban area is actually worse then yours beleive it or not. no company, carrier wants to run wires or satellite wifi in my region!
Used to hate having to pull cables through underground conduit back when I was working for the phone company. Lol Nicely done!
Good to see you gettin jiggy wit it SC.
Dude, you did a very decent JOB!!👍👍👍👍👍 pulling cables is part of my line of work.
You win first place for the most clickbait thumbnail I have ever seen. It worked cause now I'm here.
From someone who supported and troubleshooted real Networking. Its not too hard to significantly improve connectivity. The trick is to identify where the bottle neck is and there always seems to be one. Sometimes in the most unlikely places trust me. As long as you understand that you can continue to increase the total throughput. Im a great believer in increasing thoughput. By the way have you seen the distance you can succesfully rn 10 Gig over copper and yes you can do it. Good luck with your project. Nice to see some Gbics in use.
a unsealed pipe will collect water via condensation. The Air will contain moisture which will condense below ground and accumulate over time.
I recommend pulling more than a single pair incase there is an issue with the only of the fiber connections. For my Run I used ST connnections since you can always switch out one fiber connection as apposed to a duplex. I like ST since the are unlikely to come loose over time either from temperature swings or vibration.
PERFECT VIDEO! I was puzzled how I was gonna connect the conduit to the house and I see those pull boxes, extremely helpful. Now I just need to figure out how to install that PVC lol
Instead of using air to remove the water, I'd recommend a shop vac to suck, then hook it up in blow mode to air dry for a few minutes
I build Fibre Optic networks for a major mobile telecoms company. We are pushing up to 8.8Tbps (i.e. 8,800 Gbps ) on one pair of fibres between our node sites. Bandwidths are still going up beyond that. Never-ending drive for speed.....
Whoever ran that string in the past was Brilliant. What a huge foresight. Also.. GREAT suggestion on your part to replace the original string from the get go
If you don't have a pull string ran in empty conduit, just tie a plastic bag to a new pull string, stuff it in the conduit, and use a shop vac on the opposing end. The shop vac will suck the plastic bag through the conduit along with the new pull string.
@@JuiceSpringsteen88 great tip
Definitely leave a pull string in when putting in buried conduit. In addition to making it easier to pull next time, it helps to save the work of trying to pull through a collapsed conduit.
AWESOME video! There is water in the conduit because of condensation :)
Outstanding Brother!
I had no Idea prices and parts have become so DIY friendly!
Cheers, Eric
One tip - rather than using Cat5 for your pull cord, you can use what's called mule tape, which is purpose built for this type of application. It's also cheaper and has a higher pull capacity before it's compromised (hundreds of pounds vs. a couple dozen pounds before ethernet is comprimised).
You do an excellent job of explaining things. Great work!
Thank you for that tip, I have not seen that stuff I will have to give it a try. Thank you
@@SilverCymbal if you are doing a run whare you may dig in the future make sure you have some sort of conditioner in with the fiber so it can be used to locate it
mule tape gets expensive fast though compared to just using what you have on you then putting it back in the box (or leaving in place as a future spare). We kept all the mule tape from doing manhole shots in the middle east, ours was rated to 2100 lbs lol. Came back and used it as rigging for small crane work (under 1T) after that deployment, that stuff is amazing. Tried to buy more later just to have on hand and holy crap it gets expensive fast compared to jet line which is fine for anything residential
For example (residential again) You can get 6500 feet of jet for under 50 bucks, getting that much mule tape, even the light stuff, is gonna be hundreds
“It’s just water”. 😂. I can guarantee you that everyone laughed at that one. 👍
Here's a tip.. If you have a spool of fibre patch cable like this, put it in a bucket and it wont unspool and tangle.. it will feed in just nicely through your pipe.
I agree with you, wired is always a nice way to go over these new wireless technologies. I'm old school that way.
Incredible! you're truly way ahead of the game.
Much appreciated thank you!
I have a Ubiquiti setup, and was able to do 10 gigabit over ethernet between two buildings. I did run two cables, to I have a backup, but I would have gone this route if I had known how easy it was. Great video as always!
Like he said in the video, copper is ok between buildings, but you need lightning protection on both ends. Also, copper is susceptible to freezing so they make gel filled CAT6 cable for outdoor use if it ever goes below freezing. Can't have water in a conduit either or you are going to have a bad day eventually.
@@bobherman9950 yeah I can't imagine many homeowners know what lightning arrestors and ground blocks are 😖
This is exactly what I did to my shop, had to put in my own conduit though. Singlemode fiber is the better choice though, you have more sfp options especially if you want to go beyond 10 gig.
singkle mode is not the best choice as the transievers are mroe expensive and it is pointless for runs less than a 1km lol
@@jonneymendoza Sure it'll work fine. The price difference is a few dollars, so singlemode is still the best option for future proofing.
My god dude, You do everything perfectly. I love it!
It is a blessing to not have blazing speed to a GARAGE. If you need/want it, it isn't a garage/shed.
If your string breaks or you don't have a pull string put your shop vac on one end of the conduit and feed the string in the other end. I've done this on some pretty long runs.
Your videos are always great. I always look forward to them and recommend others to your channel.
Silver Cymbal has all the best toys.
Great video. Love your help! Miss having my kids around to help.😂
Brotip:
When testing the fiber before running it:
Make sure the heat shrink sleeve alternates colours on either side...
Yellow white
White yellow
Or vice versa. If they're they same, break one end open using the side of a blade and swap one end.
You can thank me later for saving you 6 hours of frustration.
Not sure if I'm just dumb(probably), but can you explain why you should do that?
@@franciscobenitez5651The SFP modules have a TX and an RX port. You need to alternate the fiber so that the TX of one module goes to the RX other. You do the same for the RX side, going to the TX.
thanks for the demo and info, have a great day
Very informative and excellent great video!
I will probably never have to do this task but it is still great information! Awesome 👏
Thank you for this video! Exactly what I’m looking to do.
I'm planning to have a similar situation in a few years. In my case, I plan to run through conduit, much like you, but I plan to get fiber that has at least some sort of armoring to protect it while pulling (also use pulling lube - helps alot). I've seen fiber that has metal shielding or strong fiber (like kevlar or similar) reinforcing. When they ran fiber to my house, the fiber they used had a tough outer sheathing then fiberglass? rods inside to help protect the fiber from bends and stretching. To terminate it, they used a fusion splicer to splice a patch cable on.
It looks like there are new types of connectors coming on the market that make DIY termination possible. The main tools appear to be special strippers and a fiber cleaver. Neither are all that expensive (
you can always buy multistrand fiber that is preterminated to make installation easier. either way always get the outdoor rated cabling when your pulling though underground conduit.
@@ccoder4953 oh gotcha. obviously it doesn't matter if the fiber is preterminated. But yeah, being a Network Engineer I only have experience with professionally fusion spliced fiber, or the preterminated fiber. I dont know about these connectors.
Wow, this guy lives in the middle of the forest and he has 1GB internet speed I live in the city and the internet speed doesn't reach 200MB.
Edit:
I didn't mention it but I don't have fiber. All I have is a wireless router only.
I am really luck with that. I am setting up some new stuff that will use this fiber and combine all these things into one big network here but it is super economical. I am planning to share these videos in the near future. This link was the first big step, well after the Starlink tower of course.
Yes; those who inist that "everyone has high-speed internet" haven't a clue. There was a town in Louisiana that didn't get phone service until 2005.
200?! I can barely even get 3
Im in the country, gravel road, city nearest me has a population of less than 200 (short 20 miles away) and I have gigabyte up and down.
And here in Australia I am stuck with fibre to the node/exchange and from the pit outside my house with a 30 year old copper cable from the pit to the point In my home. 40mbps maximum download speed only get about 12mbps on average.
Man 10 jigglybits is a nice connection speed!
I trenched out about 90ft to a location where Im building a shed. Ran two different conduits (one for power and the other data). I ended up assembling the 10ft sections piece by piece and ran the wires/LC fiber while assembling. I was worried trying to pull 2-2-2-4 MHF in 1.5" conduit was going to give me trouble. Totally dont need data out in a shed but I didn't want to regret not doing it. At least I'll be able to make the exterior lights smart and add a security camera or two to give me better coverage of the backyard.
I’ve had 12mbps Internet for years and finally getting fiber this week. Can’t fucking wait. All my life I’ve had shit or no internet while all my friends had it.
How is it?
HUGE note -
Make sure you have at least 1-2 Feet of Slack for Expansion/contraction on both ends for heat swings and temperature changes. And prevent abrasion from rubbing.
Put cable lube with pipe and cable as well.
Since you have water in there, You very well could have a future break in your fibre line as one end could expreience frozen in the ground while another end is contracting and pulling on it.
I would have tried to get sheated or protected direct buriel line in that conduit instead of the thin line.
Also i would have run at least 2-3 pairs of cat6 in the cable for future use, separate networks or more to goto a nice managed switch for vlans, security cameras etc.
POE switches are LIFEsavers.
I had 6 Runs of cat5e almost ruined from years of expansion contraction from +30 to -30c seasonal swings.
Luckily i ran Two 1 inch conduits (data/future) and a 3" conduit (power) to garage.
thanks a lot!!! so nice reverb
Nice, cheap and easy install.
thats awesome, i wish Australia would reach good speeds, right now 1gb speeds are a dream, you struggle to get 100mbps and thats a top plan here
Your tips and tricks are the best! Your advice last year to use shampoo as lube worked so well I decided to try the finger glove condom and it works amazing too!
"It's just water" hahahaha such a dad face.. My father has the same one😂
Heads up with the indoor fibre used in water filled conduit. From my experience, the fibre will fail in about 4-5 years. Outdoor rated, gel filled is the better option for longevity.
I love your videos
That is really nice of you to say, thank you
Nice video….thanks. I have read on other sites that conduit bodies have too tight of a bend radius for fiber optics so I have been looking for other options to transition from my buried 2” pvc conduit to go into my steel building.
For people who are asking why a 10Gb/s home network. It's not only for the Internet 🙄. Some of us are using it for fast access to NAS with SSD cache for video editing and am sure there are a lot more other uses for 10G.
Very informative video today 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I'm personally not a fan of underground conduit, but that's just because I've spent the past couple decades dealing with poorly installed wiring conduits at gas stations. lol. Our US customers always seem to spec rigid pipe that's rated more for lateral strength than water intrusion. I much prefer direct burial cable, but I imagine that would be kind of pricy for 200+ feet of fiber optic. Not to mention a lot more work.
10 gig equipment is power hungry right now and also produces too much heat that small equipment sometimes overheats and drops connection just like the early 1gig equipment. Good job on picking 1 gig first.
I used MoCA adapters in my home....i love em.
Well done. U should do more videos
That is very nice of you to say, thank you
Good content Silver Cymbal, and I'm glad you show yourself on video now, unlike your earlier videos. Just a helpful suggestion here, you may want to slow down just a bit when you're talking, especially since you're going over technical things. Just makes it a bit easier to digest and understand what you're saying.
How did you learn how to do all this stuff? Genuinely curious what your resources are. Thank you for all the videos. You are the dad I never had.
That's a very nice compliment. For IT stuff that has been my job since I was 15 but for my DIY I like to try things & make many mistakes but eventually learn. You have to be willing to know that sometimes you mess up and it's ok and try it again.
@@SilverCymbal thank you.
These days??? watch YT vids
Great video. Thank you 🙏
People need to pay attention to minimum bend radius for fiber or you can end up with intermittent data transmission errors. I suggest using a piece of PVC of the right diameter and secure the cable to it for any bends. Existing conduit probably has bends tighter than spec but you may be fine.
Standard SFP only support 1GB. SFP+ is needed for 10Gb.
Water can get in to the conduit due to Enzo being open or more likely and never getting covered doing construction. Also conversation is a method of water ingress. And depending on code, location and installer they don't necessarily have to be glued since the expectation is that it's going to be a wet install and water resistant cable should be run.
Plastic pipe is your friend. It's cheap and will protect your wires if you do any digging in the future; I'd say 3 to 5 inch pipe. Plus you if you oversize the pipe you can pull plenty of new wires in the future if/when you need it. Make sure to properly cap it. If your doing direct burial then always consider putting in hybrid or an extra cable with heavy gauge copper to carry DC if you at all suspect POE might be useful.
Consider running "outside plant" (OSP) fiber outside so water in the conduit doesn't damage it and use pulling lube.
Water often gets into the conduit via condensing in the cooler part underground and by flooded vaults.
great video, only suggestion I have it not using patch rated fiber for outdoor work. Make sure you get something that’s weather rated.
Great video and presentation !!!
Yes, get ready !! We currently have 5 Gig residential circuits out as of last year and now installing and building the circuits to transmit 25 Gig residential in the very near future. Do you need that no, Over kill yes, bragging rights YES.
Yet I can't even get fiber even though a state capital city. Oh wait though...ATT took millions of dollars to run fiber to a few apartment buildings in the city so they can now say they have Fiber there
2:33 ah sounds easy enough “go out in your yard and dig a trench”
I was running fiber optics in the UK through pipes 30 years ago its easy.
The electricity in each house is grounded. If you have two houses then you are already working with two ground points. If you then lay a copper cable, you will very quickly have phantom currents and ground loops. This can also happen in high-rise buildings with a lot of cables. Or if you connect several buildings on a large property.
With fiber optics you get around the problem.
Ethernet actually galvanically isolates the equipment from the endpoints if it's not using POE...
Klein Tools wire pulling lubricant helps when pulling wires as well
shampoo too.
I have one that has a protective sleeve on it for underground use. but it will also go though a pipe. I have not done it yet but once I get the house redone then I will run the fiber though. In my office were the internet is at with my servers its all set up for 10G to all servers and computers with a 10gb switch. I will be getting a new switch that is 1gb POE with 10g uplink ports it will have 4 of them 2 will be linked while the other 2 will be used in the home if I ever want to do 10g to any devices the POE is for all my cameras and poe devices.
would be so fun after all that hard work plugging it in .. you remember you have a 110Kbps line :P
Good stuff
I've heard a number of times that those conduits Always get water in them. Get direct burial cable at least for copper or powered fiber
I have a similar need and distance
Used your links thanks.
Awesome video!!!
All i can see in the thumbnail is the outlet going 😲 and i can't believe i never saw it before 🤣🤣🤣
You're so very informative, i cannot use some of the knowledge in my apt for the obvious reasons, but i still enjoy sharing the videos with my home-owner friends 🧐😳🤔
Water comes from condensation. No way to stop it. Sandy backfill can help. That’s why underground cable is rated UF.
Great video but you need an SFP+ switch and transceiver to get 10 gigabit. Regular SFP only goes up to 4.5 gigabit
Are you stuck in the 90s?
Whatcha talking about Willis? We never left.
Go to infinite cables. You can get a meter of indoor/outdoor armored cable for 88 cents. Stuff is pretty tough.
Awesome video. I do own a business in IT and started a young adults ministry at my church. There's a small house on the church property, it's empty but would love to turn that place into a place where young adults can hang out or have any church activity there. the space between the house and church is far apart because of the parking lot. What is the best solution to bring fiber the church so the house can have internet?
idk why, but the "now wait one second here grandpa" had me rolling hahah