Ladies and gentlemen take it from a guy who have done this for 35 years, it takes a very skilled person to eyeball a straight line without laying a line. This guy knows exactly what he's teaching.
NICE WORK , SIR, I AM LEARNING LIKE NEVER BEFORE, MY DAD USED TO SAY ´´YOU NEVER REALLY STOP LEARNING , SPECIALLY WHEN THE THINGS YOU LEARN ARE GOOD ENOUGH TO BE HONORED WITH HARD WORK´´, HE LIVED 85 YEARS AND HIS WORDS ARE STILL HERE , WITH ME AS I WALK ON THIS LAND... HE USED TO ENJOY TEACHING ME AND OTHERS ALL HE KNEW... I MISS HIM SO MUCH...KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK , KEEP TEACHING...
Back in school we used lime and sand mix and some gray coloring to practice our columns and walls. Then when done we would have to tear it down clean up the brick and our fake mortar mix was thrown into the mixer dry to beat the clumps out of it and it was ready to used again and again for practice.....thanks for the great videos
Makes it look easy, your'e a real pro! I just tried my first column today, laid up 6 levels of 4 bricks only, took me 4 hours and looks like a dogs breakfast compared to yours. Thanks for the tutorial, it helped a lot, I'll get there!!
Great bricklaying skills,you can tell this from 80's,house doesn't have tyvek,vapor barrier,house wrap.Would never fly today's standards.Very skilled mason.
I do floor covering, had no clue on brick laying! All these videos are very helpful! I like doing my own work. I have been practicing, of course no were as good or as fast...but thanks to these videos I can now do my own!!! Thank you for these videos! Wished you lived next to me!!! Would help you for free on the side just to learn more!
So wish I’d found this video before trying 1.5 brick 6 foot piers for our driveway gates for the first time. Didn’t appreciate the need for rebar and only filled the centre with concrete. Second time I closed the gates they snapped the pillars around course 4 or 5 and toppled over! Soul destroying rebuild with 16mm rebar lengths chemically resined 400mm into the concrete foundations followed!
Hi I have a question about the column you built for the gate that was on a concrete slab. You put rebar in it--and said you would reenforce it with mortar. Can I build a column on concrete steps doing the same? Putting rebar in it with concrete? Without it tipping over?
I’m thinking about doing this for structural support . I enjoyed watching your video 👍😁 also it looks like this video was made back in the 90s or early 2000s I miss the good old days 😉
Obviously this is a very old video; but it is very well done and will defnitly help me build my pillar; I have a very difficult time finding the right brick here in Phoenix area; need 12x4x4 or 9x3x3 with holes, not solid.
I want to brick up my house which has asbestos siding on it,I know I will have to build a new footer around perimeter, any ideas on this subject.??? Should I apply a 30 lb roofing felt or house wrap.?
Kind of an old video, but maybe somebody will answer: if you aren't saving the mortar that you scrape out with that rake, is there some other benefit to using the rake to remove the mortar instead of leaving the mortar flush with the brick? I've always liked the look of brick laid with the mortar sort of spilling out of the joint (although I know that just uses a lot of mortar - but back to the initial question - if you aren't going to scrape the mortar back into your bucket and use it, what's the benefit of raking it?).
Say, do you ever hose down the bricks that you’re going to lay with, water, to keep the bricks from sucking all the moisture out of the mortar? I’m learning so much from your vids!! Thank you so very much!!!
Pardon my ignorance, but since brick is so porous, why isn't there a moisture barrier behind it? I know very little about bricklaying; however, when a house uses standard siding there is a house-wrap type of moisture/vapor barrier used. Is there a reason it isn't used here? Is it not needed?
Paul Best wish I lived over there I wanna be a brick mason so bad I practice all the time but it’s really hard to find someone to take time to give lessons in person
This is by far the best vid I found. But I need bit more about how to do foundation. I am planning to build a automated sliding gate with intercom. Any tips?
Never use "s" mortar for brick. It is too strong, clay brick are not "structural" if any cracking occurs you want it to be in the joint not the brick. "S" is stronger than the brick.
The first segment doesn't talk about ending height calculations and how to figure foundation/footing starting elevation in regards to brick bed joints ending at a precise height. Second segment has the rebar being placed in the middle of the column AFTER the concrete is poured... the column isnt anchored at all.
the reply about the vapour barrier that i commented on was when you were laying the soldier course on the back wall, not the pier i know that as i am a brick layer myself in Canada, all our houses up north have vapour barrier ,deu to our climate
Short answer rebar needs to be embedded into footing with an L shape. Footings for gates are usually undersized or not deep enough. When planning for a gate you need to consider length and weight of gate, what type of opener is appropriate for column hinge location. You need to plan well and do your homework. I’ve heard it said you can’t overbuild a gate footing!😂
We call those "Chariots" The Brick pointing gadget with two wheels and a nail for a particular finish and pieces of hosepipe or dowling whereby giving the desired effect also we have some very talented Bricklayer's Stu Crompton in particular has UA-cam channel and he just keeps getting better all the time people like him are drawing those at home showing them all the way to lay brick and the industry is better for that, Rodian Montague is another talented lad also on UA-cam showing the public that You too can do this, obviously for a profesion City & Guilds which is the older Merit needed to Qualify as a Bricklayer and NVQ 's but with all this Coronar Virus and place's on lockdown i suspect there will be quite a few Homemade Barbeques being Built and i maybe one of them. !!
Cement is a fine binding powder that is never used alone but is a component of both concrete and mortar, as well as stucco, tile grout, and thin-set adhesive. Mortar is composed of cement, fine sands and lime; it is used as a binding material when building with brick, block, and stone.
The second column is just going to be a big sponge... Hopefully it doesn't go through any freeze/thaw cycles. Would be best to use a half 8" block, stack that upto height, then fill it solid with grout and rebar.. Blue skin and flash your block, Then put your brick veneer around it and leave a few weeper holes...
Michael Didn't forget, it just wasn't required back in the 80s when this was filmed. Good eye though, by todays standards it most definitely would be required.
They are there, just hard to see. Because this was a series of videos we put together back in the late 80's, they where meant to be viewed in chronological order, and the one just before this one covered brick ties, But I assure you they are there.
Boy them soldiers though. Man do you know how long it took me to learn how to lay them properly. Laying soldiers and headers use to have me frustrated 😂
Back here in the UK we call your "header joint" a perp joint or perp. Short for perpendicular of course. The trig, or twig, we call a 'tingle'. These are generally made using a strip of thin card doubled over to enclose the line at the fold and held in place by a brick weighing it down. The level tapping question is about level of craftsmanship and also the nature of the level. I was working on a new bus station back in the 70s when my brand-new Stabila 4 foot level took a tumble from the top of a 5-lift pole scaffold. It was sickening to watch it hit what seemed like every bearer and cross-brace on its downward series of collisions until it bounced off a pile of brick into the mud. When I shinned down to the ground I was fearing the worst. I'd only bought it a couple of days beforehand, but when I went off and tested it against the site standard it was spot on all round, undamaged. I couldn't have afforded a replacement - I was still using the WHS kite-pattern trowel, with one edge tempered for cutting brick and a metal pommel that anchored the tang to the handle. We called it the Work Hard or Starve, or the Work Hard and Starve, depending on the going rate. Whatever, I wouldn't have tapped a level with that trowel. Usually I would use the butt-end of the brick hammer to tap the brick to the level line. Like John Graham said, tapping the level was a minor sin when I was doing my time. Use the level to test the work - use the trowel or brick hammer to set the work to the line.
On a long run lay brick by eyeball- when you get within say 6’ check distance- it should be the layout multiple plus a joint. If layout is say 3” ( brick+ joint) then at 6’ measurement should be around 72 1/2”- check every foot after that making adjustments in joint thickness 😎
If you are looking up at it the botttom of the soldier is a lot more noticeable than the top. If you level it to the bottom line you have a nice clean straight edge.Any variation in the top is usually not enough to cause problems if you are continuing your field above it. Just Sayin....
To Quinn, WTF.. You make no sense! The columns were level. The only thing I saw was attaching a Concrete Decorative Cap to to the column that was not mortared! That IMO is dangerous, safety hazard. The columns & the soldier courses looked good.
Jeffrey McMillan as for the concrete cap I agree & posted that the other day it should have been mortared in. HOWEVER AS TO QUINN BEING CORRECT YOUR ARE BOTH WRONG ! HE USED 2 STRINGS { LINES } ON THE TOP HEIGHT! AS WELL AS AN OUTSIDE EDGE TO CONTROL THE EXTRUSION. BRICKS ARE NOT PERFECT! HIS SOLDIER COURSE IS FINE.
Joe Quinn YOU ARE NOT CORRECT! HE UTILIZED. 2 LINES 1 FOR THE EXTRUSION 2ND FOR HEIGHT. THEY ARE FINE! WHAT MASONRY PROFESSIONALS USE SPEC MIX! FOR ANY JOB OVER 100 BRICKS ? SO YOU ARE NOT A PROFESSIONAL!
a bricklayer never hits his level puts it off and nothing will be plumb or level same with the brick it should be pushed into position not hit into position i would have been slapped as an apprentice for doing that
John Graham Wood level were the most likely to go of true as the bulbs were set and adjustable people should not follow what you say the re bar you use in the col should be tied into and cast in the footing all that will happen is the col will come away gate and all please don't show people the wrong things I don't rate you at all I am sorry I cringe each time you hit your level a brick should've said lac d you n position not hit
Karina Sorry not following your logic; re your statement "people should not follow what you say on the rebar you use in the column should be tied into and cast in the footing all that will happen is the column will come away gate and all please don't show people the wrong things" can you explain this better thanks, My understand was rebar should be in the concrete base and up the column thus tying this into one solid piece (foundation and structure)
![HOW TO BUILD A BRICK PIER [Bricklaying for beginners e.p.16]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ijgKZt4Nkf0/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO BUILD A BRICK PIER [Bricklaying for beginners e.p.16]](/img/tr.png)
This is the type of teacher people need. Very clear, very simplistic, no beating around the bush. To the point. 👌🏻
Ladies and gentlemen take it from a guy who have done this for 35 years, it takes a very skilled person to eyeball a straight line without laying a line. This guy knows exactly what he's teaching.
NICE WORK , SIR, I AM LEARNING LIKE NEVER BEFORE, MY DAD USED TO SAY ´´YOU NEVER REALLY STOP LEARNING , SPECIALLY WHEN THE THINGS YOU LEARN ARE GOOD ENOUGH TO BE HONORED WITH HARD WORK´´, HE LIVED 85 YEARS AND HIS WORDS ARE STILL HERE , WITH ME AS I WALK ON THIS LAND... HE USED TO ENJOY TEACHING ME AND OTHERS ALL HE KNEW... I MISS HIM SO MUCH...KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK , KEEP TEACHING...
I'm such a begginer, I didn't even know the standy-up bricks were called soldier courses, so thank you. Excellent video.
Another excellent video. I like the review at the end to highlight the points made during the video. Thank you for sharing.
Back in school we used lime and sand mix and some gray coloring to practice our columns and walls. Then when done we would have to tear it down clean up the brick and our fake mortar mix was thrown into the mixer dry to beat the clumps out of it and it was ready to used again and again for practice.....thanks for the great videos
Makes it look easy, your'e a real pro! I just tried my first column today, laid up 6 levels of 4 bricks only, took me 4 hours and looks like a dogs breakfast compared to yours. Thanks for the tutorial, it helped a lot, I'll get there!!
Great bricklaying skills,you can tell this from 80's,house doesn't have tyvek,vapor barrier,house wrap.Would never fly today's standards.Very skilled mason.
elams1894 did you get better?
elams1894 I just did the same yesterday, with training mortar.took me a couple of hours ,5 courses high, so
will keep practicing, good luck, brian uk,
Jaja u funny
Thank you. Clear, concise, informative.
I do floor covering, had no clue on brick laying! All these videos are very helpful! I like doing my own work. I have been practicing, of course no were as good or as fast...but thanks to these videos I can now do my own!!! Thank you for these videos! Wished you lived next to me!!! Would help you for free on the side just to learn more!
You have great videos... Explaining each move ..things to look out for and why you do them!! Great craftsman for sure!!!!!
I can't even believe what I'm seeing at 9:42 Where's the house wrap or vapor barrier?? Unbelievable! ...Nice looking masonry though.
Likely in Nevada or a very dry climate. But I agree, house wrap would be good practice anywhere.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you very much.
So wish I’d found this video before trying 1.5 brick 6 foot piers for our driveway gates for the first time. Didn’t appreciate the need for rebar and only filled the centre with concrete. Second time I closed the gates they snapped the pillars around course 4 or 5 and toppled over! Soul destroying rebuild with 16mm rebar lengths chemically resined 400mm into the concrete foundations followed!
Hi I have a question about the column you built for the gate that was on a concrete slab. You put rebar in it--and said you would reenforce it with mortar. Can I build a column on concrete steps doing the same? Putting rebar in it with concrete? Without it tipping over?
I’m thinking about doing this for structural support . I enjoyed watching your video 👍😁 also it looks like this video was made back in the 90s or early 2000s I miss the good old days 😉
hi can i use brick columns to carry roof trussers
I did my first brick job today at home trying to fix some exterior stairs…what a Fing mess! Hopefully it lasts a few weeks 😆
Obviously this is a very old video; but it is very well done and will defnitly help me build my pillar; I have a very difficult time finding the right brick here in Phoenix area; need 12x4x4 or 9x3x3 with holes, not solid.
I want to brick up my house which has asbestos siding on it,I know I will have to build a new footer around perimeter, any ideas on this subject.???
Should I apply a 30 lb roofing felt or house wrap.?
In the first example, is it possible that the brick pier get filled with water or humidity and gets damaged that way? Any experience out there?
Very beautiful, but it would be more convenient if a lamp is installed on the post, it can be used for lighting and decoration
Thank you for the teaching. It’s very well explained.
trig means to straiten or tidy up.One trigs a line with a twig.maybe a small branch?
Kind of an old video, but maybe somebody will answer: if you aren't saving the mortar that you scrape out with that rake, is there some other benefit to using the rake to remove the mortar instead of leaving the mortar flush with the brick? I've always liked the look of brick laid with the mortar sort of spilling out of the joint (although I know that just uses a lot of mortar - but back to the initial question - if you aren't going to scrape the mortar back into your bucket and use it, what's the benefit of raking it?).
Say, do you ever hose down the bricks that you’re going to lay with, water, to keep the bricks from sucking all the moisture out of the mortar? I’m learning so much from your vids!! Thank you so very much!!!
yes in the heat of summer it can help to wet the brick down, especially if your in the desert like we are.
This guy really knows what hes talking about
Quality workmanship. What year is this though? Feels early 90's.
late 80s early 90s
@@learntolaybrick thanks for your answer and taking the the time to reply.
So simple and precise in explanation.. Nice job!
Hook the end of the rebar before you set it in the footing it acts like an anchor
Beautiful Mountains in the background
Pardon my ignorance, but since brick is so porous, why isn't there a moisture barrier behind it? I know very little about bricklaying; however, when a house uses standard siding there is a house-wrap type of moisture/vapor barrier used. Is there a reason it isn't used here? Is it not needed?
How deep should the concrete footing be for the Columns? Should the fitting have rebar in it?
Come to England and learn to lay bricks the traditional way tried and trusted for generations as in my case 4 generations.
Paul Best wish I lived over there I wanna be a brick mason so bad I practice all the time but it’s really hard to find someone to take time to give lessons in person
Go brush your teeth..of you have any...
This is by far the best vid I found. But I need bit more about how to do foundation.
I am planning to build a automated sliding gate with intercom. Any tips?
What do you with the gaps in the mortar. Or is this just a demo and that normally would not happen.
Thanks. Nothing is classier than brick.
Do any bricks have holes on the outside like the so on the others for grip
He makes it look very easy! Skilled.
Wish I'd seen this before my first masonry project.
What are your thoughts on Smith Levels? That and your thoughts on Type N vs Type S mortars for laying brick veneer like in the video?
Never use "s" mortar for brick. It is too strong, clay brick are not "structural" if any cracking occurs you want it to be in the joint not the brick. "S" is stronger than the brick.
The first segment doesn't talk about ending height calculations and how to figure foundation/footing starting elevation in regards to brick bed joints ending at a precise height.
Second segment has the rebar being placed in the middle of the column AFTER the concrete is poured... the column isnt anchored at all.
the reply about the vapour barrier that i commented on was when you were laying the soldier course on the back wall, not the pier i know that as i am a brick layer myself in Canada, all our houses up north have vapour barrier ,deu to our climate
carl witteveen how many months is it too cold to lay
Good bricky he recaptures the squeezed out mud and taps his trowel clean to keep from smearing the brick.
How does the column carry the load of the gate when the rebar is not part of your footing it’s just floating in the pier
Short answer rebar needs to be embedded into footing with an L shape.
Footings for gates are usually undersized or not deep enough.
When planning for a gate you need to consider length and weight of gate, what type of opener is appropriate for column hinge location.
You need to plan well and do your homework.
I’ve heard it said you can’t overbuild a gate footing!😂
We call those "Chariots" The Brick pointing gadget with two wheels and a nail for a particular finish and pieces of hosepipe or dowling whereby giving the desired effect also we have some very talented Bricklayer's Stu Crompton in particular has UA-cam channel and he just keeps getting better all the time people like him are drawing those at home showing them all the way to lay brick and the industry is better for that, Rodian Montague is another talented lad also on UA-cam showing the public that You too can do this, obviously for a profesion City & Guilds which is the older Merit needed to Qualify as a Bricklayer and NVQ 's but with all this Coronar Virus and place's on lockdown i suspect there will be quite a few Homemade Barbeques being Built and i maybe one of them. !!
Muito mas muito bom ver como o carinho profissional e dedicação a profissão trazendo ótimos resultados , parabéns.
No moisture barrier?
That OSB is rotten by now!
why didnt you record from the start of column?
Your awesome pal 👍
What kinda footing are you on?
Learned a lot great video 👍
those mountains make me want to go hiking
Why are you using mortar instead of cement?
Cement is a fine binding powder that is never used alone but is a component of both concrete and mortar, as well as stucco, tile grout, and thin-set adhesive. Mortar is composed of cement, fine sands and lime; it is used as a binding material when building with brick, block, and stone.
@@learntolaybrick Thanks
do you stll have videos for sale?
Yes all videos are available at learntolaybrick.com
THIS MAN IS A GOOD MACHANIC....my old LOCAL 3 instructor had his attitude and skill
HE IS NOT A MACHANIC
Nice bond on the brick veneer
No AVB behind the brick veneer? House is going to leak like a sieve.
Thank you. You were really helpful.
is that a w.rose trowel
Well done, sir!
love to hear you bcoz your voice resemble to John F Kennedy who is my ideal leader. Your work is also excellent.
Excellent instruction! Thank you.
The second column is just going to be a big sponge... Hopefully it doesn't go through any freeze/thaw cycles.
Would be best to use a half 8" block, stack that upto height, then fill it solid with grout and rebar.. Blue skin and flash your block, Then put your brick veneer around it and leave a few weeper holes...
Thanks, great video. Nice brick work.
Very detailed awesome
No moisture inside house?
Sir，Did you forget to put waterproof on it before laying brick?
Michael Didn't forget, it just wasn't required back in the 80s when this was filmed. Good eye though, by todays standards it most definitely would be required.
+Learn To Lay Brick okay, saw lots of comments for that issue.
It all depends the county where he’s living
Well done bro.
Good video.. are you in Hawaii
Thank you very much for his channel.
Soon I will use all your knowledge to improve this world.
Thank you very much for the videos.
Its amazing so many different size colomns
Good work, bro
no brick ties?
They are there, just hard to see. Because this was a series of videos we put together back in the late 80's, they where meant to be viewed in chronological order, and the one just before this one covered brick ties, But I assure you they are there.
I figured they were there but not visible. Thanks for the reply. Your an excellent mason.
no vapor barrier haha
Brick ties for a pier only if other brickwork will be butting into it otherwise is a waste.
Roman Corners will touch a wall up nicely.
Хочу заказать такойже мастерок как у вас, как это сделать
Boy them soldiers though. Man do you know how long it took me to learn how to lay them properly. Laying soldiers and headers use to have me frustrated 😂
Back here in the UK we call your "header joint" a perp joint or perp. Short for perpendicular of course. The trig, or twig, we call a 'tingle'. These are generally made using a strip of thin card doubled over to enclose the line at the fold and held in place by a brick weighing it down.
The level tapping question is about level of craftsmanship and also the nature of the level. I was working on a new bus station back in the 70s when my brand-new Stabila 4 foot level took a tumble from the top of a 5-lift pole scaffold. It was sickening to watch it hit what seemed like every bearer and cross-brace on its downward series of collisions until it bounced off a pile of brick into the mud. When I shinned down to the ground I was fearing the worst. I'd only bought it a couple of days beforehand, but when I went off and tested it against the site standard it was spot on all round, undamaged.
I couldn't have afforded a replacement - I was still using the WHS kite-pattern trowel, with one edge tempered for cutting brick and a metal pommel that anchored the tang to the handle. We called it the Work Hard or Starve, or the Work Hard and Starve, depending on the going rate. Whatever, I wouldn't have tapped a level with that trowel. Usually I would use the butt-end of the brick hammer to tap the brick to the level line. Like John Graham said, tapping the level was a minor sin when I was doing my time. Use the level to test the work - use the trowel or brick hammer to set the work to the line.
One thing that none of these videos show is how the mason gets the vertical joint the proper width; they seem to eyeball it.
On a long run lay brick by eyeball- when you get within say 6’ check distance- it should be the layout multiple plus a joint.
If layout is say 3” ( brick+ joint) then at 6’ measurement should be around 72 1/2”- check every foot after that making adjustments in joint thickness 😎
Great info . Thank you
Just started school for this
I love his posture
Isn't this third bond not quarter.
popa dodge he has got it wrong he only has to do the math to work out it is 3rd bond well spotted!
popa dodge actually he has given you the wrong measurements the brick is 3" by 12"
+mark heathcote 3 5/8 x 11 5/8 to be exact. 4 x 12 are not actual measurements, they are nominal!
+popa dodge yes you are correct
Yes it is.
Nice Video!
Bill K i
If you are looking up at it the botttom of the soldier is a lot more noticeable than the top. If you level it to the bottom line you have a nice clean straight edge.Any variation in the top is usually not enough to cause problems if you are continuing your field above it. Just Sayin....
To Quinn, WTF.. You make no sense! The columns were level. The only thing I saw was attaching a Concrete Decorative Cap to to the column that was not mortared! That IMO is dangerous, safety hazard.
The columns & the soldier courses looked good.
I was talking about the soldier in the veneer
Jeffrey McMillan as for the concrete cap I agree & posted that the other day it should have been mortared in. HOWEVER AS TO QUINN BEING CORRECT YOUR ARE BOTH WRONG ! HE USED 2 STRINGS { LINES } ON THE TOP HEIGHT! AS WELL AS AN OUTSIDE EDGE TO CONTROL THE EXTRUSION.
BRICKS ARE NOT PERFECT! HIS SOLDIER COURSE IS FINE.
Joe Quinn YOU ARE NOT CORRECT! HE UTILIZED. 2 LINES 1 FOR THE EXTRUSION 2ND FOR HEIGHT.
THEY ARE FINE! WHAT MASONRY PROFESSIONALS USE SPEC MIX! FOR ANY JOB OVER 100 BRICKS ?
SO YOU ARE NOT A PROFESSIONAL!
You can use the top line for range (to keep it plumb ) and level the bottom of the brick to the bottom line.
was this filmed in 2015? maybe 2002?
1989
there's a coyote or a fox below his right arm at about 4:40. great video btw
It's a horse
I've been a bricklayer for over 35 years never use a taker for exterior work eventually you'll have water damage rakings for interior work only
hes in a warm climate,
and a dry one too. Second driest in the country.
Down here in muggy louisiana, we never rake joint. We need a nice smooth joint finish to help with moisture.
where is your vapour barrier behind the brick?
What are the cores of the column bricks prefilled with ?
They just have mortar in them, during filming we did many many takes, so we tore it down and rebuilt it many times.
OK, thanks for reply.
Brilliant video thank you
just keep a strait edge for the level bashing.and use a level to check the plummet .
Your bricks will plummet mate
nice work mate. here in Canada required black paper first
Some sort of vapor bearier I hat the way chip board swells and deteriorates slow Rory sucks.
a bricklayer never hits his level puts it off and nothing will be plumb or level same with the brick it should be pushed into position not hit into position i would have been slapped as an apprentice for doing that
And me!
John Graham that's how I was taught as an apprentice
back in the day levels were expensive nice wood levels.. I beat my level and they keep true for years and years..
John Graham
Wood level were the most likely to go of true as the bulbs were set and adjustable people should not follow what you say the re bar you use in the col should be tied into and cast in the footing all that will happen is the col will come away gate and all please don't show people the wrong things I don't rate you at all I am sorry I cringe each time you hit your level a brick should've said lac d you n position not hit
Karina Sorry not following your logic; re your statement "people should not follow what you say on the rebar you use in the column should be tied into and cast in the footing all that will happen is the column will come away gate and all please don't show people the wrong things" can you explain this better thanks, My understand was rebar should be in the concrete base and up the column thus tying this into one solid piece (foundation and structure)
No one:
Not a single fucking soul:
Empty void and space:
UA-cam Recommendation: Watch some dude lay bricks
This video was made in the 80s I wonder if this man still doing this for a living..
He is retired but still does estimating and teaching and service projects to help those in need.
Phil Simms is a pretty good mason.
Noticed you don't have water barriers on wood framed walls
yes in our area through the 80's and 90's it wasn't required and a lot of home owners chose to skip it. Defiantly required by todays codes.
i like the mic cord from his back.. must be a while ago? we have had whireless for sometime now... lol but he is damm good!!!
chimney man Yup filmed back in the 80, these where originally available on VHS.
Tapping on the level! 2 demerits!