I Tried to Make My Car As Quiet As A Bentley...

[@nicklol7878]

I did the same with my Mk1 Aygo same material made a huge difference. I added additional rubber weatherproofing to the doors and boot which massively decreased the wind noise. Also adding kilmat to the doors makes a more satisfying thump haha

[@jamieaygo]

The rubber weather proofing around the doors and boot is a good shout and is something I'll add, so thanks for sharing! I miss that satisfying thump, so I look forward to the day, ha!

[@toneconsultant]

The video was awesome so thank you. I believe there is one things folks should understand though. This material doesn't have to cover every inch of space. Yes, filling in these tiny cracks looks great, but there is absolutely no benefit in going back to fill those tiny spots. We aren't trying to waterproof and cover every spot. The dampening material stops the metal from vibrating or reverberating sound. A 1/4 inch or 2 cm is not gonna make ANY measurable sound difference. With that said, since it takes hours of time to do, and you're going to cover it all up, it's OK if it doesn't look "fancy.". f you only want to dampen sound, those sliver of areas you missed are OK to be missed.

[@jamieaygo]

Thank you! Yes, it's been quite a popular bit of feedback and I know on the higher end cars like the BMW's that they add butyl mats very strategically, so if I end up doing it again, I'll be sure to use sound proofing mats sparingly.

[@user-cs9xk7jb6h]

I believe many others said that, but you ll be fine with only 50 to 60% of surface coverage. In some places even less.

[@jamieaygo]

Yeah, good shout.

[@Aygo-zx8dr]

That first sound at the very beginning of the video sounds like the buckle of the seat belt vibrate against the B-pilar!

[@jamieaygo]

Good shout, that. It very well might be. I still get a ton of noise and vibration travel through the different panels anyway, so will be good to see the results once it's all done!

[@rkan2]

The most important places to put the sound insulation are the wheel arches and firewall/dashboard as that is where the driver usually is. Putting some thicker or absorbing cloth in the roof helps with reflections.

[@mandymoo7406]

I have an aygo at work and it is indeed the seat belt passenger side, only way to cure the rattle is to clip it into the seat

[@velmuruganbalasubramanian9804]

I own a 2018 Toyota Yaris/Vios. There’s OEM sound dampening on the roof more than other parts and the car seems remarkably quiet.

[@jamieaygo]

Thanks for adding to this. Nice to hear that this is added to other models in Toyota's line up.

[@karm9180]

I have a face lift mk2. At startup it sightly vibrates for about five seconds, is it normal? The dealer says is normal for a 3 cylinder, but my father drove a Daewoo Matiz (later Chevy Spark) for 10 years , 3 cylinder also and I didn't notice any vibrations at startup. And it was a much cheaper car than aygo. But then I drove only 4 cylinder cars until now... The car is basically new, only 3000 miles.

[@jamieaygo]

Mine hasn't done that, but a few seconds should be fine. As long as it runs and you don't notice any oil leaks, I don't think I'd worry too much. Some people have mentioned something similar to yours, but only when the AC is on. I used to drive an Audi A3 2.0 TDI and that shook like shaggy after he'd seen a ghost, so it seems yours is minimal. Is it still doing it?

[@matteochiantore4769]

Man I think I have figured out what it is. Check if the passenger seatbelt is somehow badly clipped between the door panel and the seat, because the higher rpm during cold start makes it vibrate as you describe it.

[@Mariazellerbahn]

No rust issues in the boot floor there but if any rust did start coming through, you wouldn't see it.

[@sayanpal9491]

Does adding the soundproofing material on the bonnet and boot make any significant difference? Asking because I cant do any further than this on my own as it would require taking apart door trims and seats.

[@jamieaygo]

Hey, Sayanpal! I am actually doing that at the moment. Editing the video as we speak, so you'll soon know how to remove the door cards and trim. You definitely notice having only the boot and the bonnet done. It kind of sounds like when you put cotton wool in your ears. It slightly muffles sounds from certain directions. Still, ideally, you need to sound proof the whole car for it to make a difference.

[@JP-bh7wb]

I hope those sound deadening matts you put on the bonnet are heat proof

[@jamieaygo]

Thanks for the comment, JP. Yes, the mats are fine. It also helps that I have kept the original heat proof cover on the bonnet, too. Kilmat's own website says: "Kilmat is great within the temperature range from -49 F to 212 F; this material is non-absorbing, optimally thick, and completely safe."

[@matteochiantore4769]

@@jamieaygowell then watch out man, inside the bonnet of a car temperatures reach way more than 100°C

[@soundseeker63]

I'll be interested to see how this turns out. I could do with some more soundproofing in my Civic mk8, excessive road noise is one of the few flaws in that car's long distance refinement. But why bother with the bonnet? Thats not going to make any difference to the driving experience at all. Behind the door cards on the other hand..

[@jamieaygo]

Hey, SoundSeeker. That's a fair point, as doing the bonnet doesn't add much with respect to sound deadening, but it will help with panel vibration and make the car sound slightly more elegant on the road when passing people at slower speeds. I am actually on with the door panels now, so stay tuned for that.

[@rkan2]

"mm thick square feet" - What is this, the US?😂

[@jamieaygo]

I'm a bit of mix, mate. I spent a lot of years out of the country, so I tend to mix measurements regularly, ha!