Outstanding video and instructions. I replaced the door actuator on my 2007 Ford Ranger today. Mine had 3 screws holding it on. Needless to say when I was finished it had 2 screws holding it on. The back screw is just too hard to get at. Had a hard time lining it up. Spent about an hour on that alone, but once aligned no problem. Saved at least $150 by doing it myself and I'm 74 years old. Thanks Gary
Hey Jackleg. Your video was perfect in assisting me in replacing my actuator. I was quoted $200+ by a major car maintenance chain for that to be replaced. I did it with the help of your video and the part from Auto Zone for $45!!! I hope you keep posting videos like this. I will definitely refer back to you when I need to fix something else.
Excellent work! I was looking for a good troubleshooting process to check *other* things before cutting the plenum to check for a broken blend door. This did it for me!
Great video! Nice pictures and I really appreciate the help on troubleshooting the switch itself to try and isolate the part that is giving me trouble.
Faith Utz I hope it works. some people say the door can get hung inside the box, but I guess you can still narrow it down. let me know results. it's great to know people can use these videos. :)
+royallhawaii Thanks for the comment. I have some videos that are "video" but I am starting to find that pictures in a presentation can be just as effective.
Ya, thanks for making this video...the repair shop was going to charge me $650 for my 96 Ranger, but I thought that was a little steep, looked at your video and spent less than $100. 👍
Great tip to check.. I have a 95 Ford Ranger XL. That has the same symptoms. I'll go out and check damper right now. Just got back and checked. Apparently mine has a cable running from behind the knob to damper. So that's not problem. Might need new thermo, but replaced that 2 years ago.
Hello Jack. Your videos are really helpful. I just bought a 1996 Range. I went to have it smogged the Tech told me that I needed to perform a drive cycle because it showed some code errors. What would you recommend? Any advice would help. Thank you.
I guess he is saying you need to drive it at least 50 miles before they can do the smog. if you had the battery disconnected it shows a drive time. Is that what he is saying?
My '99 Ranger has this problem. I will tackle it this weekend. It seems a good idea to purchase both items, then return the actuator if the potentiometer replacement fixes it. Thank you.
Hi Jackleg... great video.. I'm an amateur at this so I'm trouble shooting each item. When I use the multi meter on the potentiometer I get a reading of 454 at 20K... is that within tolerances? The actuator for the blend door does turn but its kind of wonky (not smooth) and makes a clicky-grindy noise... bad gears perhaps? but it does turn. Also, when I check the temp of the two heater hoses at the firewall, there is a 20 degree temp difference between them (147 and 125). The vacuum valve seems to be working.
Sound like bad blend door actuator, they usually don't make any noise if you have it pulled out. The temp on the hose is good. If the blend door is moving it means potentiometer is likely working. Much of what I am telling you is a guess since I am not there.
@@Jackleg So I actually... very carefully... popped open the actuator. Everything inside looks pristine. I dabbed on a bit of lubricant and it sounds and seems smoother now so I think it might be ok... I'm kinda stumped here🤔
@@Jackleg No heat.. or rather, the heater will work sporadically, but I haven't gotten anything out of it for awhile. When I saw your video, I thought I had my answer but I guess not.
so will work on a 2010 ranger if they are the same parts I have cold air coming out when I wanted to have heat but just cold air instead so I'm thinking this might be my issue I'm having any info will help thanks
That was my problem. The outside vent was always letting outside air in. So in the winter, so much cold air was coming in it felt like the heat was not on.
I think max AC closes the outside air when it's on is the only difference. It's hard to tell not being there but the switch is suspect to me. That entire climate control in the center console is not very expensive. You can also try one from a junkyard just to see if it changes anything.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to fix a similar problem with a 96 Explorer that I just got. When I pulled down the glove box, there was no actuator. Some one had already removed it and cut up the heater box. I have a new replacement actuator, but there is nothing on the top of the heater box to secure the new actuator to. Are the posts that yours pressed down onto part of the heater box or a separate piece?
I went outside and looked. It is hard to tell, but it looks like mine has a mounting bracket that screws in to the top of the box. The bracket has the post sticking up. (that's what it looks like). I will do a little more digging and see if that is actually what it is. Some people cut the box open when the blend door is stuck or broken. I hope that is not your case. I will let you know what I find.
The only thing I could find related was the image on this page. www.fordrangerforum.com/electrical-tech/121925-blend-door-cable-controled-electronic.html It shows a mounting bracket. I think my ranger has one, but I could not tell how many screws it has or how it is mounted.
Brad Simpson I have seen some people comment that the door actually gets stuck inside the box. many DIY folks cut a hole in the black box. I will look around for remedies tonight when I get home. sorry I have nothing more concrete. what year is your ranger?
its a 97 explorer but basically same setup. i finally got heat today by putting my finger on the part of the actuator that spins(still installed) and pressing down while turning the temperature select knob back and forth. no noise ever came from actuator but there was an audible change in airflow when heat started. im not sure what i did but hope this helps someone. i also read that the seal on bottom of blend door becomes soft and sticky over time causing it to stick....dont know if true
Where is the actuator for the knob on the right? My vents have defaulted to defrost and I need to locate the actuator that controls changing the air diversion between floor, vent, A/C, and defrost.
if your actuator and potentiometer both work then that is the reason you cut it open and move it manually. if you don't you pay around 1500 bucks for the garage to fix it
Jim Bandy it was a problem in the design that ford should have recalled. The door should move free, it's just the fact that they used a metal arm to move a plastic door and the plastic breaks
Mark Simmons you can't turn down the temperature? Mine was the temperature knob. I can tell you it was really easy to turn and the new one had much more resistance.
Can anyone help me. My truck, the heat is always stuck on but only when im going at highway speeds or above 50 do I feel the heat. Sometimes it comes out by my feet sometimes the defrost sometimes both. But when I stop moving the heat stops coming out. Very annoying to drive in the summer time
I am totally guessing here. If heat always comes out it could be the actuator or the temperature potentiometer in the console. your blend door is currently in the heat and outside air position, that is why you feel the heat while on the interstate (outside air is pushing it into the cabin). It's hard to tell without taking some things apart and looking. All the parts impact each other. :(
Jackleg I appreciate the reply so much. Thank you. The thing thats weird is I can still control my heat and the heat settings (high and low) but when I go to turn it off it just doesnt stop I dont know ill have to look further into it. Thank you!
One of the best explained video's ever. I love UA-cam.
I hope it helped you out.
Outstanding video and instructions. I replaced the door actuator on my 2007 Ford Ranger today. Mine had 3 screws holding it on. Needless to say when I was finished it had 2 screws holding it on. The back screw is just too hard to get at. Had a hard time lining it up. Spent about an hour on that alone, but once aligned no problem. Saved at least $150 by doing it myself and I'm 74 years old. Thanks Gary
Gary Smith thanks for the comment Gary and I am glad it helped.
how did you get the back screw out
Lori Kinney my ranger had clips Lori and not screws. I am hoping someone will see your question and respond.
Hey Jackleg. Your video was perfect in assisting me in replacing my actuator. I was quoted $200+ by a major car maintenance chain for that to be replaced. I did it with the help of your video and the part from Auto Zone for $45!!! I hope you keep posting videos like this. I will definitely refer back to you when I need to fix something else.
That is awesome Ashley. That makes it all worth while.
Excellent work! I was looking for a good troubleshooting process to check *other* things before cutting the plenum to check for a broken blend door. This did it for me!
I hope it works for you!
I have to fix my truck soon. It only blows very hot air. Thank you for posting this great video!!😀👍
Great video! Nice pictures and I really appreciate the help on troubleshooting the switch itself to try and isolate the part that is giving me trouble.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the troubleshooting techniques. Ended up having to replace the blend door anyway.
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment. :)
Thank you for taking the time to explain and share. Getting ready to try it now.
Faith Utz I hope it works. some people say the door can get hung inside the box, but I guess you can still narrow it down. let me know results. it's great to know people can use these videos. :)
Great video! I am having the same problem ! Thank you for posting this!
I liked your presentation. Goes to show that you don't have to use video to make a good descriptive presentation.
+royallhawaii Thanks for the comment. I have some videos that are "video" but I am starting to find that pictures in a presentation can be just as effective.
Thank you Jackleg for this information, this video really helped me out lots.
Ron West glad it helped! always good to hear that.
Ya, thanks for making this video...the repair shop was going to charge me $650 for my 96 Ranger, but I thought that was a little steep, looked at your video and spent less than $100. 👍
Awesome. that's what it is all about!
Great video, very well done! Thank you
Very good video, good explain everything, thanks
I hope it helps you. Thanks for the comment.
Great tip to check.. I have a 95 Ford Ranger XL. That has the same symptoms. I'll go out and check damper right now. Just got back and checked. Apparently mine has a cable running from behind the knob to damper. So that's not problem. Might need new thermo, but replaced that 2 years ago.
ChrisFix has another great video on troubleshooting. It looks like he either has a ford or mazda. ua-cam.com/video/-XjXTVJhFLM/v-deo.html
Thank you, Sir. Big help for me.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment.
Hello Jack. Your videos are really helpful. I just bought a 1996 Range. I went to have it smogged the Tech told me that I needed to perform a drive cycle because it showed some code errors. What would you recommend? Any advice would help. Thank you.
I guess he is saying you need to drive it at least 50 miles before they can do the smog. if you had the battery disconnected it shows a drive time. Is that what he is saying?
My '99 Ranger has this problem. I will tackle it this weekend. It seems a good idea to purchase both items, then return the actuator if the potentiometer replacement fixes it. Thank you.
Hi Jackleg... great video.. I'm an amateur at this so I'm trouble shooting each item. When I use the multi meter on the potentiometer I get a reading of 454 at 20K... is that within tolerances? The actuator for the blend door does turn but its kind of wonky (not smooth) and makes a clicky-grindy noise... bad gears perhaps? but it does turn. Also, when I check the temp of the two heater hoses at the firewall, there is a 20 degree temp difference between them (147 and 125). The vacuum valve seems to be working.
Sound like bad blend door actuator, they usually don't make any noise if you have it pulled out. The temp on the hose is good. If the blend door is moving it means potentiometer is likely working. Much of what I am telling you is a guess since I am not there.
@@Jackleg So I actually... very carefully... popped open the actuator. Everything inside looks pristine. I dabbed on a bit of lubricant and it sounds and seems smoother now so I think it might be ok... I'm kinda stumped here🤔
@@sarawood4603 what is the actual problem you are having? What's the symptoms? Not sure I can help but will try. :)
@@Jackleg No heat.. or rather, the heater will work sporadically, but I haven't gotten anything out of it for awhile. When I saw your video, I thought I had my answer but I guess not.
@@sarawood4603 Ford ranger? What year?
Thanks
Good info, thank you 👍👍👍
Thank you for the comment. I hope it helps you.
Jackleg sure did 👍👍
What if I am getting heat but for some reason it constantly throwing out heat to the floor vents even if its switched off
great viv my brother.
Kevin honey hope it helps or helped. Thanks for the comment.
so will work on a 2010 ranger if they are the same parts I have cold air coming out when I wanted to have heat but just cold air instead so I'm thinking this might be my issue I'm having any info will help thanks
That was my problem. The outside vent was always letting outside air in. So in the winter, so much cold air was coming in it felt like the heat was not on.
I have an 08 and all I get is heat unless I have max AC on......could this be related to the same components?
I think max AC closes the outside air when it's on is the only difference. It's hard to tell not being there but the switch is suspect to me. That entire climate control in the center console is not very expensive. You can also try one from a junkyard just to see if it changes anything.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to fix a similar problem with a 96 Explorer that I just got.
When I pulled down the glove box, there was no actuator. Some one had already removed it and cut up the heater box. I have a new replacement actuator, but there is nothing on the top of the heater box to secure the new actuator to.
Are the posts that yours pressed down onto part of the heater box or a separate piece?
I went outside and looked. It is hard to tell, but it looks like mine has a mounting bracket that screws in to the top of the box. The bracket has the post sticking up. (that's what it looks like). I will do a little more digging and see if that is actually what it is.
Some people cut the box open when the blend door is stuck or broken. I hope that is not your case. I will let you know what I find.
The only thing I could find related was the image on this page. www.fordrangerforum.com/electrical-tech/121925-blend-door-cable-controled-electronic.html
It shows a mounting bracket. I think my ranger has one, but I could not tell how many screws it has or how it is mounted.
I need to replace the blend door on my 1997 Ranger, you have a video for that?
Eliza Hibbard sorry, I do not. I only have videos for items that have broke on my trucks.
any tips if the door is stuck? the actuator works and i have coolant flow through the heater core but still cold air. anything besides cutting a hole?
Brad Simpson I have seen some people comment that the door actually gets stuck inside the box. many DIY folks cut a hole in the black box. I will look around for remedies tonight when I get home. sorry I have nothing more concrete. what year is your ranger?
its a 97 explorer but basically same setup. i finally got heat today by putting my finger on the part of the actuator that spins(still installed) and pressing down while turning the temperature select knob back and forth. no noise ever came from actuator but there was an audible change in airflow when heat started. im not sure what i did but hope this helps someone. i also read that the seal on bottom of blend door becomes soft and sticky over time causing it to stick....dont know if true
I’m not so lucky I have screws and trying to figure out how to get it out…. Hoping I don’t have to take the dash out
I bought a little 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver set from advance auto for something similar.
FYI. My potentiometer read 4700 on my multitester. All things being different I guessed that was probably good too and it was. 2006 B2300
Where is the actuator for the knob on the right? My vents have defaulted to defrost and I need to locate the actuator that controls changing the air diversion between floor, vent, A/C, and defrost.
That is probably vacuum controlled. I have never worked on one see if I can find a video for you when I have an opportunity.
It was a vacuum issue. thx
if your actuator and potentiometer both work then that is the reason you cut it open and move it manually. if you don't you pay around 1500 bucks for the garage to fix it
Is the door stuck inside the box in that case? Good to know.
Jim Bandy it was a problem in the design that ford should have recalled. The door should move free, it's just the fact that they used a metal arm to move a plastic door and the plastic breaks
Mine runs constantly? Any ideas
Mark Simmons you can't turn down the temperature? Mine was the temperature knob. I can tell you it was really easy to turn and the new one had much more resistance.
Mark Simmons you ever find out why? I got the same problem
@@kylehager9694 resister switch.on firewall below blower motor 13 bucks at nappa
Can anyone help me. My truck, the heat is always stuck on but only when im going at highway speeds or above 50 do I feel the heat. Sometimes it comes out by my feet sometimes the defrost sometimes both. But when I stop moving the heat stops coming out. Very annoying to drive in the summer time
I am totally guessing here. If heat always comes out it could be the actuator or the temperature potentiometer in the console. your blend door is currently in the heat and outside air position, that is why you feel the heat while on the interstate (outside air is pushing it into the cabin). It's hard to tell without taking some things apart and looking. All the parts impact each other. :(
Jackleg I appreciate the reply so much. Thank you. The thing thats weird is I can still control my heat and the heat settings (high and low) but when I go to turn it off it just doesnt stop I dont know ill have to look further into it. Thank you!
Amigo you help me please?
Thanks.
Thanks