Crank- No Start No Spark Diagnosis/Fix 1996 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN 3.3L
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2018
- MANUALS/DIAGRAMS:
FULL MANUAL (as of 02/06/2022):
drive.google.com/file/d/1Fv_v...
TEMPORARY INCOMPLETE FOLDER LINK AS OF 2/10/21:
we.tl/t-PKFX7n1keP
NOT WORKING AS OF 2/10/21- PLEASE CHECK YOURSELF, IT COULD BE FIXED
oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/ma...
In this video I'll run you through figuring out any possible issue/outcome for a no spark on this 96 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. My issue turned out to be an improperly seated/gapped crankshaft position sensor that was giving me a signal voltage of 1V lower than expected.
Just a quick walkthrough for people new to diagnosing problems with their vehicle for a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L
This will apply to any 3.3 and 3.8L 1996-2000 Grand Caravan and probably the equivalent Plymouth/Chrysler models as well.
The 3.0 and other engine models have slightly different wiring so you will have to follow along with different pin-readings. - Ігри
Thanks for all the work you did creating this video. Caravan/Voyagers are cheap to buy. But we definitely need this knowledge base. By doing this video, you helped a lot of folk who need to keep these rigs going. I am searching for more in-depth videos like this one. Blessings.
Crystal clear! Very useful! I will now have a shot at diagnosing my own Crank No Start No Spark 97 Chrysler Voyager!
Thanks for this informational video it was so needed because I was having the same problem. It was the cam sensor not being placed all the way in with a little push. Much appreciated
Thanks for your clear video. Please do more on this model.
Good job dude he explained it in detail that even I can understand thanks man
Great video Mike.
Easy to understand.
I have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan 240,000 original miles. Just
Valvoline 10W-30 every 3000 miles.
Good decision not to junk Caravan.
FYI. If you haven't already add a transmission cooler and mount in front of auxiliary condenser to extend the life of that 41TE.
I appreciate your time that you took doing this video. Your honest step by step procedure can not be under rated because like you mentioned one little mistake like not getting the crankshaft sendor in all the way is exactly what happened to me as well. It is difficult to tell when the sensor is seated all the way or not when you can not see it. Great job!
Haha, no worries. Figured if I got so much help from UA-cam over the years on car stuff might as well give back.
I was probably like 24 hours from calling a tow truck to bring it to the junkyard since nothing was working and it was street cleaning so I'd get a ticket but luckily it worked. Thanks for your comment 😊
Thanks kid you taught me alot about my van that has the same problem.
On the 2,4L 4 cylinder Caravans its a different Cam sensor (the crank position sensor on these does look more like the one he shows here as his cam sensor), the 2.4L is more a flat plate attached with 2 10mm bolts. The bolts are supposed to be torqued to 7 ft lbs or 84 inch pounds, which could make a difference in the space between, as a rubber O ring on it is compressed down.
I learned something's. For my 96 Dodge Grand Caravan. I'm having a tough time removing the crank shaft sensor. The bolt is out too. It twists but won't come out so far. Thinking of a little WD-40 squirt
Lots of good information.
Well done! Thank you!
Good teaching👌
Thank you for this. I thought my fuel pump or coil pack had gone out, turned out to be the ASD relay.
WHERE A S D LOCATED AT 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
WHAT WAS YOUR PROBLEM ON YOURS
@@dannythacker1029 the Automatic Shut Down relay had gone bad, no other problem. It's a less than $20 part. It's located inside the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment on the driver's side. Remove the cover from the box. On the underside of the box cover you will find information telling you where each relay or fuse is located.
Thanks for the help. Very priciest detail information.
Love this video thanks
Good evening Sir. Great video. I really appreciate the information. By any chance do you know if the 3.3 liter or the 3.8 liter has a timing chain???
Both have timing chains, and it's the same one:
3.8L: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1996,grand+caravan,3.8l+v6,1308822,engine,timing+chain,5724
3.3L:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1996,grand+caravan,3.3l+v6,1308833,engine,timing+chain,5724
Thank you!
Excellent!
this is a good video mike
thank you Mr. Ross, I appreciate the kind words. Surely it helped you fix your 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan ;-)
So to test my asd relay just simply connect test light to ground and touch the connector to the ignition coil with the test light while someone turn the key to the on position and I should see the test light light up for a second??? I did watch the full video I just want to be 100% sure!..thanks
One end of the test light goes to the B+ (battery positive) connector that goes to the coil pack. The other end touches ground. Whenever someone puts the key in and turns it right before crank, it should light up for a second, yeah. You could also just swap a different relay from your fuse box to see if it fixes it- if it didn't, it's probably not the ASD relay.
If you've got any other questions let me know :-)
What if you get no light on the first test but changing the ASD relays out still does not get the light? I'm still not able to get spark or start the car. It seems coil control number 1 is grounded out.
Learn from my experience - '02 3.3 V6 Grand Voyagers / Dodge Caravan have one sort of tone wheel, '04 3.3 V6 has a later tone wheel, so after swapping a newer motor in to replace an older one, the ECM can't read crank position, and you'll get the same sort of 'Cranks but doesn't start' shown here.
I need some help. I got the same vehicle you worked on. The code called for a camshaft sensor or single wire. I replaced camshaft sensor. Could it be i didn't push it in enough? When i stary this van it cranks but no start. I thought i jumped the time? Your insight is greatly appreciated
What code # did you get? Sometimes the definitions are different between scanners so it might be slightly off. It's possible you didn't push it in all the way- the new sensors are all from the same factory and don't seem to be an EXACT fit for the port in the engine. I had to push in pretty hard.
If you have a multimeter unplug the battery and probe the pins from the camshaft plug to the PCM. You might have a melted harness somewhere, so be on the lookout for that. The battery has to be disconnected if you're doing a continuity test otherwise even a short will show up as a continuous circuit since it will pass through the battery.
If you need help with that in detail I can explain it more or try my best to.
Also, if you wouldn't mind- how did you get the code? OBD reader or the check engine flash procedure to check codes?
Thanks. Great video - very helpful. The link to the repair manual does not seem to work ?
I have a few of the files saved which I uploaded to a temporary link, now in the description. I don't have all of them, unfortunately, but hopefully the original host of the files fixes it soon. I tried looking online if someone else had backed it up publicly to no avail. The wiring diagrams are in the one i uploaded.
Also kindly reference this page: www.columbuslibrary.org/content/alldata
This is a login for my.alldata.com- i just confirmed it works. It will have most everything you need.
I have a 96 town and country but mine has the 3800 XLI with alarm. will this work the same on it? new cam and crank sensor plus $289.20 computer. it looks like the coils are located in same spot too. is there a relearn I need to do? very nice video Mike! thx
The alarm may be a little of an issue but there are services (on eBay too if i recall) that will program your replacement PCM to work with your BCM (body control module).
Sometimes there are issues with the BCM's locking out new computers but if the services do their job properly there shouldnt be a problem. I actually ran into one computer from a junkyard that refused to work because of the BCM but another one worked fine.
The wiring for your vehicle should be the same but i'm not 100% sure. The service manual in the description has instructions for the 3.3L (mine) and I think the 3.8L was the same set.
The diagnostic method for the sensors will be the same.
To summarize: Cam and crank sensor replacement- no relearn at all, it's just plug and play, they are simple devices. PCM- possibly but if you exchange it online I think they program in your Body Control Module to prevent any issues.
Regardless, if the PCM you get doesn't work there's not much you can do to fix it without the original dodge computer hookups but those cost like 3 grand even for emulators. You'd just need another one.
If I can clarify anything let me know!
Mike Walko thx a lot Mike. I’m checking my wiring as we speak I do have the 8 volt reference now I’m gonna check what the signal voltage. I’ll let you no.
My friend has a 05 chryler town & country 3.8ltr. Something blew her asd 20amp fuse so, i replaced the fuse & it blew the fuse again. I swapped her horn relay with the asd relay & it started but now, it misses. Any & all help is appreciated! Thank you in advance!!!
The 2005 model is different than the model I have so I cant offer any vehicle specific advice. Here's a link to what i think is the correct wiring diagram- i'm not 100% sure.
www-5.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2004/docs/rs/rswiringdiagram.pdf
8W-30-2 6 10 16 21 24 and 32 show fuel/ignition system diagrams using the ASD relay. Page 134 on the PDF.
If i'm thinking correctly, a short anywhere in the ignition coil/fuel injection system would cause the ASD relay to blow. Try examining the plug wires and fuel injector cables, if i had to guess it's something in there.
Here's the service manual for the car, there might be some procedure to check misfires under power systems, 8N.
www.scribd.com/document/342480877/2005-chrysler-t-c-dodge-caravan-service-manual-pdf
Thanks
This is a great video. So I tested the spark plug and getting spark. Does this mean it's a fuel issue and not electrcial issue?
More than likely fuel or compression, I'd lean towards fuel if it's sudden. Fuel pumps on these are not spectacular, rockauto.com has them cheap but just rent a fuel rail tester from AutoZone and check the pressure. Any check engine light?
@@mikewalko536 no check engine. Good spark. Although I only tested one plug. Drove home last night no issue. Woke up this morning it turns over. It seems to be a fuel issue. I'm going to replace filter since is 20 bucks. Pump is 180. I'm up in Canada so prices are little higher here. Found a decent video on dropping the tank a few inches to remove pump.
Thank you, really helped out.
I was hopping you would show how to test spark plug coil. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for commenting! To test the coil, check out booklet 8D in the manuals linked in the description.
The testing values are on page 8D-9 or page 9 of the PDF.
Hi, your video is very clear but I have another situation. I put the key on, the light turn on and does not flash. It stay on. Why? :)
Try swapping the asd relay with another relay- something must be wrong with the asd relay circuit if it's not turning off automatically
WOW THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH THIS 3.3 !!!!!!! I'M HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH MINE, SO WE WILL TRY TO EXAMINE THE CRANK SENSOR DEPTH AND GO FROM THERE. AGAIN,, GOOD JOB
I HAVE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH OTHER CARS, THE REALITY IS WE ARE JUST HUMAN , THE CHALLENGES TO TODAYS MECHANIC ARE MIND BOGGLING. AGAIN THANK YOU FRO SHARING AND DON'T FEEL EMBARESSED WE ARE ALL TRYING TO KEEP WHEELS MOVING. FRIEND ME ON F.B. DENNIS OATLEY
What was your outcome Dennis?
mine just shut off today in heavy traffic. all sensors are new. any chance of this being the best issue. I was having no problem. now I have no fuel, and no spark.
Initial guess is a bad ASD relay- no fuel pump, no spark? Definitely electrical. Check the ASD relay first, then go through your fuses. Make sure your battery is good- check voltage and connections. Let me know what you've troubleshot.
Hallo guys i having issue with this car i try to crank there is no sparks ⚡️ at all .. after i troubleshoot i found the crank and cam sensor have sticker at the surface after i removed the sticker ... the spark ⚡️ is working the car manage to start but 3-4 sec only .. and after 3 times crank the sparks is gone back .. anyone have any experience with this issue please help me 🙏 thank you
so mike walkdo - at 2:16 what light is it that is supposed to go on just as you turn the key one click before start? is it a light in the dash board?
Test light tool
My 2001 caravan won't start. It sounds like its close to starting but just wont. I put a new battery in it and hooked it up to a code reader and got p0601 pcm needs replaced and reprogrammed. Although I seen this can keep a car from starting sometimes a car can run with this error. Any ideas? Could it be a fuse? Im planning on ordering the part tomorrow and just wanted to see if any automotive savvy ppl had any suggestions
Can you check if you have spark at the plugs? Cars are pretty straightforward, they need three things. Air/compression, fuel, and spark. Figure out if you have spark first. Take a plug out and put the side of the threads to ground or bare metal while someone cranks the engine. If you see the tip flash your issue might be fuel or air. If it sounds like it's getting close it might be a compression issue, but it's strange you're getting that code.
@@mikewalko536 I didn't see this comment. Here's where I'm at now. I got the programmed pcm installed and now the car cranks still but if I press on the gas it kicks. It sounds and feels like the car starts for a split second then just goes off. It'll only kick like that when the gas is being pressed while cranking. I hear the fule pump kick on when the key is is the on position btw. I haven't checked the spark plugs. I was kinda thinking my fule filter is bad clogged cause I ran my car low on fule often. Mine is 2001 caravan 3.3 v6 btw
Im having the same exact issue i just changed the spark plugs new wires new battery but it wont turn over. I tried using starting fluid but still nothing so i figure it has to be spark but i cant find the solution
@@brandonwilliams9597 Brandon Williams gas you can check by undoing a nut on the fuel rail and pressing the valve, it is kind of like a tire valve. If you have pressure there then you are likely fine with fuel. Try unplugging your map/maf sensor, I don't recall which one the Dodge has but if I recall correctly it puts the car into closed loop mode when you do that so it won't take in actual air content into the air fuel calculations and instead will just dump a predetermined amount of fuel per cycle.
Check if you have spark at the plugs first since that's easiest to determine.
Your plugs likely didn't all go bad at the same time.
Very strange issue tbh but checking things off one by one is best. How come you got a new pcm in the first place, was this the issue you were trying to solve?
@@mikewalko536 well I got the car started now and where it will idle. Now its giving me p0202 p0202 p0205 injector circuit open and so when it runs is very weak. I seen caravan have a issue where the wire harness melts and it could be spitting out the codes because of a short idk. Didn't have any issues until I let the car sit couple days then bad battery bad pcm. Fixed the pcm now these codes? Strange
Front HL flashing odometer, RPM meter, gas meter, hot/cold meter needles are measuring back and forth and cranking to stall and battery goes down from 13vdc to 8vdc. I started with jumping and cables then shut down again. Prior to battery gas smells for sulfur oximeter hot battery, and also; later the CD 6 disc lights flashing but when CD deck flashing stop everything else stopped going haywire. As a result, no start. Cordoba Chrysler. Not ⛽ but when you get a ⛽ can 🥫 you up 😉 I started to stall and battery 🔋 on it as well and battery goes to stall ⛽ again 😂 Cordoba Chrysler? For 1978? What$$?
Bro! I’m having that problem right now are you close to Houston
New York- the camshaft/crank sensors you can buy online now suck, sometimes they work for 5 minutes and sometimes they last for years.
@@mikewalko536 i have a 1996 dodge intrepid! We went to Oreily and changed out the cam shaft sensor, coil and the crank sensor but it still want start
It just turn over and want start it’s a 3.5 liter
@@WARRENB2006 follow the procedure in the video, it should tell you what is wrong if it's in the ignition circuit
@@WARRENB2006 no codes? Take out a sparkplug and touch the threads to some bare metal on the engine/frame, crank and check if you see a spark. If you do it's probably not the ignition circuit
I had a crank no start condition, this test led to change the ignition pack and cables (light on at key on and continuous light). the ignition pack and cables were fine, it was a permanent ground in the PCM. Can be checked by seeing if there is a continuity between one of the ignition pack connector pins for the cylinders and ground.
Great find, the pcm is usually the last thing to break in most cars, so that's odd. Gotta remember to take out the battery doing continuity tests otherwise it completes the circuit through the battery
Good morning sir and nice to meet you!
My vehicle (2003 DODGE CARAVAN SE) is giving me 3 codes (P1684) (P0201) and (P0420).
Are you able to please show me on video how to apply these 3 diagnostic tests for code (P0201)?
1st Diagnostic Test
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the fuel injector harness connector.
Remove the ASD relay from the IPM.
Turn the ignition on.
Jumper the fused B+ circuit and the ASD relay output circuit in the IPM.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (K342) ASD relay output circuit.
Does the test light blink/flicker brightly?
If yes, go to next step.
If no, repair the open in the (K342) ASD relay output circuit.
2nd Diagnostic Test
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the Fuel Injector harness connector.
Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness connector.
Measure the resistance of the fuel injector driver circuit between the fuel injector harness connector and the PCM harness connector.
Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?
If yes, go to next step. If no repair the open in the fuel injector driver circuit.
3rd Diagnostic Test
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the fuel injector harness connector.
Disconnect the PCM harness connector.
Measure the resistance between ground and the fuel injector driver circuit in the fuel injector harness connector.
Is the resistance below 100 k/ohms?
If yes, repair the short to ground in the fuel injector driver circuit.
If no, go to next step.
You have an issue with something on injector #1, either the wire or the plug or the injector itself. that's the second code. First code is that you disconnected the battery, third is catalytic converter, not that urgent.
Try unplugging the injector wire on cylinder 1. It should be the passenger side rear (left side back when your standing at the hood facing the engine). I can't do a video for you but I can spend some time to run you through stuff you need help with
What specifically do you have confusion about in the instructions?
@@mikewalko536
Honestly all of it!
@@mikewalko536
I can understand and respect that you can't do a video for me at this time to show me all the steps but if your ever able to please lmk a price.
Chrysler Voyager 2.0 L.zapalila się kontrolka oleju, odrazu zgasł i już nie odpalił, olej dolalem bo było minimum. Kontrolka zgadła ale silnik nie zapala i nie ma iskry.
Gdzie powinienem szukać przyczyny
wyjmij baterię na 10-15 minut. może to tylko problem z poziomem oleju zapamiętany w komputerze. silnik kręci, ale nie odpala, prawda?
czy jesteś w stanie zrozumieć wideo, czy muszę go przetłumaczyć.
@@mikewalko536 najważniejsze rozumiem. Jakieś podstawy angielskiego mam😁
@@mikewalko536 dziękuję Sprubuję
@@mikewalko536 czyli wychodzi że ten pojazd ma taką funkcję że wyłącza silnik jak jest mało oleju 🤔
@@krzysztofjaskiewicz7435 tak. jak poziom oleju jest niski, wyłącza silnik. jeśli kontrolka oleju nie jest włączona, to nie jest ten problem.
Jak przekręcisz kluczyk żeby włączyć prąd, ale nie włączyć silnika, upewnij się że kontrolka oleju nie jest wypalona.
nie sądzę, że to jest twój problem.
czy dostajesz +12V do B+ jak odpalasz silnik?
jeśli obejrzysz video, bardzo szybko zorientujesz się, która część jest problemem
at 2:16 Mike Walko say's turn key and light should go on... shows us a light bulb going on... light bulb (a prop) - not a bulb in the minivan but just a bulb he connected to a switch and power source to show us what it looks like when a bulb is turned on and off... like duh...
You connect a test light to the battery + wire that would go into the coil pack.
This lets you know if there's power going to that circuit when you're cranking.
It's explained at 1:23 that you need to hook up the test light to these specific terminals.
Why can't you just tell which relay is the asd relay????
2:56 it's the bottom most relay, it says it's taped.
You need to check the diagram if you don't have a 3.3L model to figure out which one it is.
@@mikewalko536 the diagram I found is upside down. It's at the top of the fuse box not the bottom. Problem solved though. It was a bare wire on the upstream heated oxygen sensor.
Mike Walko - at 2:16 - "turn key and light should turn on..." what light? you show us a light bulb turning on - light bulb in your video has nothing to do with any light in the van. so tell us mike walko - what light are you talking about? light on the dash board? what light on dashboard?
lol
Thank you!