Love your videos. Forget the haters. The majority of us gearheadds appreciate the information and tips. It is because of guy's like you that take the time to put out these videos that gives us weekend warriors the opportunity to learn. 👍🇺🇸
clecos are an interesting tool. the aircraft industry has been using millions of them over the years, it is amazing that they never really caught on in the body repair business
I watched the video, it was very excellent, and I thank you for the clarification and advice. I will buy this machine and its accessories. I am an amateur and I think it requires me as an amateur and a beginner in small businesses. Greetings to you and I wish you success. Abdullah from Kuwait
This fellow is trying to do a good job. Here's a few things to think about : #1 Don't put a patch in the middle of a large panel because the welds will eventually show through the body filler(welds create a hard line that won't vibrate like the thinner steel on either side of it . This will cause an effect similar to the fluidity of a wave hitting the immovable shoreline). Also, any tiny fissure or thin spot because of grinding will precipitate a failure. #2 If you have no choice about the repair, make sure you butt weld the patch in ...and no square corners. #3 Try to localize the join within a stiff area or close to a character line to minimize the wave action described earlier. In this case it would be best to put the join right in the flare part of the patch...but in this case the rust was more extensive. #3 Clecos hold the panel...but they cause another problem...a hole to be welded up. More welding causes more warping...more warping causes more filler...more filler increases the chance that it will crack...or lift on either side of the weld. It's better to do a really accurate cut out...which is where the dykem came in on this job, so that the patch panel fits with no more than 1/2 millimetre gap....just position it with one hand...spot weld it at one end with the other. #4 When it comes to cutting spot welds...those cutters will do the job...but then they leave a hole right through the understructure where moisture can easily penetrate. The best thing to do is get a die grinder with a carbide tip...and grind those spot welds down so they are 9/10ths gone...then use a flat blade screw driver like a chisel to bust what's left and cause them to crack and separate . This causes the least distortion to the understructure and it eliminates a hole through to the back of the understructure. I hope this helps.
Awesome video, man! I need to perform this exact metal replacement on the rear arches of my '64 dart (same one in my profile pic). this was clear and RIGHT TO THE POINT without bad music or long-winded intro. Cheers! Don
Nice work. Excellent demo on work and tools. Having the vehicle at proper work height will save your joints, especially your knees. I hope others will follow your lead. Again, nice job and thank you for Sharing.
I bought some clecos about 20+ years ago when I was into car body work alot. Never got to use them once. Much like alot of tools in my garage. Now that you showed me the clamps I have not seen makes me wanna buy a dozen of those.
I liked your video, saw another where the guy cut the panel out and left the cleco areas alone as tabs, would work great in your situation whereas you could tack the top in place, and move out to cut tabs off. Nice video enjoyed watching it
good shit. I've found the best way to store clecos is by taking a 1.5" wide strip of metal, and making two rows of holes, just wide enough that you can jam the cleco pliers in between. Drill holes half way between these and you can stick another two rows of clecos in from the other side. Since clecos are long and skinny, this takes up way less room than a flat tray and saves some space. VS. a bag, it lets you grab them faster, and you can see if you left one on the floor or in a panel easily
@@OutlawEdge I would consider you one of the rare dying breed (an artist) of metal fabricators who's trade skill isn't easily replaced in today's ever evolving manufacturing world.
Yes I,worked as a tool room assistant issuing out tools to,Aircraft Mechanics and we had a huge inventory of Clecos and pliers. Then the Cherry Max rivets as well. They also make screw down type Clecos.
Your a quarter inch drive 3/16 long socket in your drill bit and let the drill stick out about a quarter inch then when it goes thru the steel and into the back piece of steel the bit won't get hung up and break if it hits the inside peice,,you probably already know this tho,,,,nice work k again my man.
like to see more videos . that looks like a dodge quarter panel which I'm going to be starting to fix soon. I was thinking about adhesive, but I bought a welder which I'd rather use.
Good video to show those pins tho if your drilling a hole anyway I find 2.5mm self tappers works just as well but far cheaper than buying that tooling, and I don’t mind losing a self tapper. And small mole grips pin all panels together solid.
I like your work, i do the same job. i can't believe you guys still use those shit spot weld cutters, get a wurth spot weld drill.. those cutters were shit 40yrs ago when they were first introduced..
@@OutlawEdge They look like a normal drill, but the cutting end looks like a milling cutter with a little spike, to centralise it in the middle of the spot weld..
The spot weld cutter was a great tool until I broke 2 of them and the boss got pissed. They are a little pricey. I switched to pop rivet drills, short double-sided bits for a pilot hole. Much happier boss!
@@JuanHernandez-ub3ez Our cutters were 35 bucks each. If the weld was a little rough or user had the cutter crooked, it would grab and break the cutter. It was like a big drill bit breaking through thin metal. Body work 101. Don't do that! Thanks CM
This is great, thanks for taking the time to post it. Been looking for a good way to trace panel patches and the best way to do it so I get a good butt weld. Dumb question tho....the hole in the original metal goes away, but how do you fill the one in the new patch? Esp, there where your access is limited. I got a couple of spoons but not sure the best way to fill the holes from clecos and sheet metal screws. Thanks agin for posting this.
sjhippie just a small spot weld but hold a piece of copper behind the hole as u weld it up so it gets really good penetration bro. 👍 thanks for. Watching
Ever thought about getting yourself a air punch/panel flange tool? Punch the holes in the repair panel, flange ,epoxy (panel bond) ,cleco in place and done!
Good job, thanks..... Once your metal is finished cut, how do u hold the new pcs in place, are they butt welded? Or a small lap weld, or a verrrrry small gap? Thanks.
Yes they are reusable over and over. Ive never even worn one out 👍😃 they are amazing tools. These are used by the military on aircraft over and over to build planes. So they are actually military grade. Thanks for watching
Angelo Nicassio u can weld up the hole in the panel before bodywork. But they also have clamp style clecos so u dont have to drill holes in the panels. Thanks for watching
Good job on video. I’m no body man but kind of jack of all I bought a 03 Toyota Tacoma new frame under it. Small amount of rust on bed over rear tires. Would you weld in new or fiberglass it
Tommy Anderson honestly the fiberglass will fall out after time. I would weld in a new panel and after welding clean the welds really good and cover all your welds with fiber putty before doing any final bodywork or primer. It will last forever that way. 👍
What kind of truck is that? Looks maybe about an 03 Silverado? Do they sell just a patch panel or did you have to get the whole bedside? I just ask, because if you had to buy the whole bedside, why not replace the whole thing if you already had the bed off? Just as much work, without all the bondo and extra holes required... but if they sell just a patch panel like that piece, then that's pretty cool. Still a great helpful video on clecos, thumbs up.
Tony Krogman thats not a dumb question at all bro. You take a small scrap of sheet metal and drill holes in it to put the clecos in. So u would have one cleco on the panel and one cleco on the second panel to hold it in place. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
"butt clamps" work best (in my opinion) for tacking the panels in place after everything is cut, cleaned, and prepped. i bought 16 butt clamps for $25 on ebay (new & free shipping)
Don't need anything drill bit you just said it would have sent her points in the middle of it and then that little thing rides in The dimple like a grill does no need for a center hole just a heavy punch mark
only need 1 toolfor different size clecos? or is it like every other useful thing i want a tool for each size of clecos costing me too much money so that i wont buy it !
Same thing here in Germany Brother, my daughter had an accident on her way to Spain with her Nissan Maxima QX which is a Infiniti i30 in the US. The drill bit we did the same method because this spring loaded pin is a PITA. Keep up the good work actually I stoped by to check those Clecos out. Here's how we did it ua-cam.com/users/shortsr1MeVe5Uf10?si=SaGtMmGkkoMU1E73
Jimmy Johnson maybe cause i had a cold. UA-cam is nothing but whining ass bitches. Why do they always troll? Lol. Theres many other videos to waste your time watching 👍
Darrel Holmgren belt sander for what? These clecos only hold the panel in place to be welded properly. Isnt a belt sander for woodworking? Thanks for watching
@@OutlawEdge To glue on a F-150, 8 ft box side, you need about 10 good buddies, every clamp/vice grip you can get, and a glue-free test run. No beer until success!! It is like a shuttle launch, ONE chance to victory.
Love your videos. Forget the haters. The majority of us gearheadds appreciate the information and tips. It is because of guy's like you that take the time to put out these videos that gives us weekend warriors the opportunity to learn. 👍🇺🇸
Thanks 🙏 thats why i do these videos brother. People like you! ARCO
Good explantion on how to use the clecos, thanks a lot..
clecos are an interesting tool. the aircraft industry has been using millions of them over the years, it is amazing that they never really caught on in the body repair business
Your uploads are never boring, always full of informative ideas and not long winded..perfect online tutor.
Us ol timers we just used sheet metal screws. Also used to use lead not plastic for filler.
I'm digging brass out of the spot welds in my quarters some old timer left in there right now. Just how they did things then
I watched the video, it was very excellent, and I thank you for the clarification and advice. I will buy this machine and its accessories.
I am an amateur and I think it requires me as an amateur and a beginner in small businesses.
Greetings to you and I wish you success.
Abdullah from Kuwait
This fellow is trying to do a good job. Here's a few things to think about : #1 Don't put a patch in the middle of a large panel because the welds will eventually show through the body filler(welds create a hard line that won't vibrate like the thinner steel on either side of it . This will cause an effect similar to the fluidity of a wave hitting the immovable shoreline). Also, any tiny fissure or thin spot because of grinding will precipitate a failure. #2 If you have no choice about the repair, make sure you butt weld the patch in ...and no square corners. #3 Try to localize the join within a stiff area or close to a character line to minimize the wave action described earlier. In this case it would be best to put the join right in the flare part of the patch...but in this case the rust was more extensive. #3 Clecos hold the panel...but they cause another problem...a hole to be welded up. More welding causes more warping...more warping causes more filler...more filler increases the chance that it will crack...or lift on either side of the weld. It's better to do a really accurate cut out...which is where the dykem came in on this job, so that the patch panel fits with no more than 1/2 millimetre gap....just position it with one hand...spot weld it at one end with the other. #4 When it comes to cutting spot welds...those cutters will do the job...but then they leave a hole right through the understructure where moisture can easily penetrate. The best thing to do is get a die grinder with a carbide tip...and grind those spot welds down so they are 9/10ths gone...then use a flat blade screw driver like a chisel to bust what's left and cause them to crack and separate . This causes the least distortion to the understructure and it eliminates a hole through to the back of the understructure. I hope this helps.
Mark Anthony thanks but I prefer changing the bed side but this guy wanted a patch which in my opinion are garbage. Lol. Take care. Thanks for sharing
@@OutlawEdge Yeah, I figured there was a reason...co$t...LOL! Complete panels are way better !
Awesome video, man! I need to perform this exact metal replacement on the rear arches of my '64 dart (same one in my profile pic). this was clear and RIGHT TO THE POINT without bad music or long-winded intro. Cheers! Don
Long winded intros- oooooh they are the worst. I hate when people recite the exact name of the video. Like, dude I know what I clicked on. Get to it😂
Nice work. Excellent demo on work and tools. Having the vehicle at proper work height will save your joints, especially your knees. I hope others will follow your lead. Again, nice job and thank you for Sharing.
I bought some clecos about 20+ years ago when I was into car body work alot. Never got to use them once. Much like alot of tools in my garage. Now that you showed me the clamps I have not seen makes me wanna buy a dozen of those.
I liked your video, saw another where the guy cut the panel out and left the cleco areas alone as tabs, would work great in your situation whereas you could tack the top in place, and move out to cut tabs off. Nice video enjoyed watching it
Always thumbs up here. Like the way you do your videos man. Laid back and very informative. Thanks.
Thanks brother I really appreciate your support to the channel 👍 ARCO
the clecos are cool, an the little clamp ones are really cool, i am loving watching these videos!! cant wait to see how it turns out!
Good teacher - I learned something from it -Thank you
not bored at all Bud......thanks for the tip
Thanks. I subscribed. I just bought my cleco set. Your videos have helped me a lot.
good shit. I've found the best way to store clecos is by taking a 1.5" wide strip of metal, and making two rows of holes, just wide enough that you can jam the cleco pliers in between. Drill holes half way between these and you can stick another two rows of clecos in from the other side. Since clecos are long and skinny, this takes up way less room than a flat tray and saves some space.
VS. a bag, it lets you grab them faster, and you can see if you left one on the floor or in a panel easily
Northern man i would love to see some video or pics of that. Sounds awesome 👍
Great video bro! Answered all of my questions with some straight forward examples. Much appreciated! 👍🏻
Thanks for tip. "Clecos", I have to remember that.
They are one of our most used tools in the shop 👍
@@OutlawEdge I would consider you one of the rare dying breed (an artist) of metal fabricators who's trade skill isn't easily replaced in today's ever evolving manufacturing world.
Thanks 🙏 😊
Yes I,worked as a tool room assistant issuing out tools to,Aircraft Mechanics and we had a huge inventory of Clecos and pliers. Then the Cherry Max rivets as well. They also make screw down type Clecos.
Thanks for the video, I have seen them before but never really had an understanding of how they worked.
Thank you for showing this ..i never knew how to use them 👍🏼
Great video explaining how to use clecos and trace a template of an area for cutting.
nice job explaining Clecos. I'm using them to rebuild a 1992 Airstream.
Sring loaded center punch has worked good for my spot weld tool to guide for me just putting out there, keep up the good work ethics.
Great tutorial bud! I'll get myself a cleco setup now that I know how to use them.
Your a quarter inch drive 3/16 long socket in your drill bit and let the drill stick out about a quarter inch then when it goes thru the steel and into the back piece of steel the bit won't get hung up and break if it hits the inside peice,,you probably already know this tho,,,,nice work k again my man.
Really good informative tutorial. And the comments section has a lot of great info from from everyone. You got really good viewers.
KickDownDoors thanks so much for the awesome comments brother 👍🇺🇸
Great job explaining how to use clecos and I hope you'll do a video about how you plan on cutting the panel along those nice scribed lines.
That would be a cool follow up
we always used sheet metal screws self drilling. they do just fine for the same thing.
I've subbed mate!
Great explanations and no BS. Keep the car stuff coming. 👌
Great job!
I cut out for the new panel with the new panel cleco'd in place, except I cut at a 45 that way the panrl pushes up flush and makes it easier to weld
Very informative, great stuff
Great vid Arco, I’ve never used clecos but was thinking of getting a set. I definately will now 👍
You wont regret it 👍 they are super handy brother! Thanks for watching! ARCO
Thanks for the information you explain the situation well great video. John Rooney St. Anne's Lancashire uk
john Rooney thanks brother. Hello from big Falls Minnesota USA 🇺🇸
yeah, very thorough sir
Nice video 👍🏻
Thank you. Good lesson.
Nice and informative thanks!
Nice, never used em, I did have a pneumatic crimp tool for doing patch panels,
Great videos! Subscribed!
like to see more videos . that looks like a dodge quarter panel which I'm going to be starting to fix soon. I was thinking about adhesive, but I bought a welder which I'd rather use.
Fantastic video. Thank you.
Good video to show those pins tho if your drilling a hole anyway I find 2.5mm self tappers works just as well but far cheaper than buying that tooling, and I don’t mind losing a self tapper. And small mole grips pin all panels together solid.
Thanks. Very helpful!
I like your work, i do the same job. i can't believe you guys still use those shit spot weld cutters, get a wurth spot weld drill.. those cutters were shit 40yrs ago when they were first introduced..
Thecreepingmingesniffer. I didn’t even know the exist. But I definitely will check into that 😀👍
@@OutlawEdge They look like a normal drill, but the cutting end looks like a milling cutter with a little spike, to centralise it in the middle of the spot weld..
@@lewiscollins1045 yeah mate they are shit, wurth is the way now
Cool videos mate👍thanks for your advices!
I had a dozen or so Clickos, i loved them. I guess the bastards that stole em did too.
Karma will kick their lame asses brother. 👊
The spot weld cutter was a great tool until I broke 2 of them and the boss got pissed. They are a little pricey. I switched to pop rivet drills, short double-sided bits for a pilot hole. Much happier boss!
Hf sells them cheap and free warranty i believe :)
@@JuanHernandez-ub3ez Our cutters were 35 bucks each. If the weld was a little rough or user had the cutter crooked, it would grab and break the cutter. It was like a big drill bit breaking through thin metal. Body work 101. Don't do that! Thanks CM
Do you have a video of what you're doing from start to finish? And you have great videos to learn by
Vermont Jeff no but u can check more older vids. I usually do jobs in order on UA-cam. Thanks
Nice little tools Gene Gorringe Mi ✌️🇺🇲
Watched a handful videos of bs and this one explains it perfectly
Sweet brother Gene Gorringe Mi ✌️ 🇺🇲
You've got great content boss.
Great tips brother! Keep it up! 👍👍
Lucky Matts Rod Shop subbed! Thanks brother!👍😀
Great video
This is great, thanks for taking the time to post it. Been looking for a good way to trace panel patches and the best way to do it so I get a good butt weld. Dumb question tho....the hole in the original metal goes away, but how do you fill the one in the new patch? Esp, there where your access is limited. I got a couple of spoons but not sure the best way to fill the holes from clecos and sheet metal screws. Thanks agin for posting this.
sjhippie just a small spot weld but hold a piece of copper behind the hole as u weld it up so it gets really good penetration bro. 👍 thanks for. Watching
@@OutlawEdge Got it, thanks much!
Ever thought about getting yourself a air punch/panel flange tool? Punch the holes in the repair panel, flange ,epoxy (panel bond) ,cleco in place and done!
We keep buying them and they are junk. They keep breaking 🥺🥺🥺
Good job, thanks.....
Once your metal is finished cut, how do u hold the new pcs in place, are they butt welded?
Or a small lap weld, or a verrrrry small gap?
Thanks.
Yup after u cut panels u simply butt weld them together slow and watch your heat. So there is no warpage. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
Good video, thumbs up!
That you! I was unfamiliar with clecos!
Ordering them right away
Good info thanks man
Awesome , versatile tool , can you reuse them ?.
Yes they are reusable over and over. Ive never even worn one out 👍😃 they are amazing tools. These are used by the military on aircraft over and over to build planes. So they are actually military grade. Thanks for watching
ha that awsome she would love that!! lol relax guy imjoking around no hard feelings , jeez take care man , no stress
Kevin Bryant no problem brother. Just keep your shitty comments to yourself. Thanks for watching
What about the hole in the new panel? What about holding the new panel in place after you cut out the rest? Thanks for explaining how they work!
Angelo Nicassio u can weld up the hole in the panel before bodywork. But they also have clamp style clecos so u dont have to drill holes in the panels. Thanks for watching
Can't beat Cleco, as there are different types.
What size drill bit did you use and nice video
I guess you use the same size drill bit as cleco or maybe just a little bit bigger ????
Sweet I knew how to use Clecos
Carolina Man lol thats funny👍
That came out wrong lol
Good job on video. I’m no body man but kind of jack of all I bought a 03 Toyota Tacoma new frame under it. Small amount of rust on bed over rear tires. Would you weld in new or fiberglass it
Tommy Anderson honestly the fiberglass will fall out after time. I would weld in a new panel and after welding clean the welds really good and cover all your welds with fiber putty before doing any final bodywork or primer. It will last forever that way. 👍
What kind of truck is that? Looks maybe about an 03 Silverado?
Do they sell just a patch panel or did you have to get the whole bedside? I just ask, because if you had to buy the whole bedside, why not replace the whole thing if you already had the bed off? Just as much work, without all the bondo and extra holes required... but if they sell just a patch panel like that piece, then that's pretty cool.
Still a great helpful video on clecos, thumbs up.
K B the customer only wanted a patch put in. I prefer changing the bedside tho 👍
@@OutlawEdge Gotcha. Great work though, keep it up!
Great vid thanks for the explanation. Dumb question but what do you use to hold panel in place after you cut it out to tack weld?
Tony Krogman thats not a dumb question at all bro. You take a small scrap of sheet metal and drill holes in it to put the clecos in. So u would have one cleco on the panel and one cleco on the second panel to hold it in place. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
"butt clamps" work best (in my opinion) for tacking the panels in place after everything is cut, cleaned, and prepped. i bought 16 butt clamps for $25 on ebay (new & free shipping)
Nice job. Subbing
And the rust behind the panel? Great shit
Marcus Schniertshauer the rust was taken care of before this was painted. We changed inner fenderwells too. Thanks for watching
Awsome
Good video, did you make a video on you cutting and welding in the new panel?
Michael K not sure if i did a video for this truck but i do have lots of other fabrication and welding videos. Thanks for watching brother
Don't need anything drill bit you just said it would have sent her points in the middle of it and then that little thing rides in The dimple like a grill does no need for a center hole just a heavy punch mark
Subbed 👍
How do you know what size cleco to use, thanks for sharing.
NOLAW47 it just depends on what size drillbit you use. You drill a 3/32” hole to join the panels then u would use a 3/32” cleco. Thanks bro
only need 1 toolfor different size clecos? or is it like every other useful thing i want a tool for each size of clecos costing me too much money so that i wont buy it !
Yes u only need one tool for all the different sizes of clecos 👌🏼
Ok so what removes the red layout dye? Thinner, Acetone?
Aceondrums58 yup it comes off really easily with acetone or wax and grease remover 😀👍🇺🇸
what do you use to fill the drilled hole on the new panel?
The hole gets welded up after the panels are welded on 👍
Но с русскими субтитрами было бы лучше! 📢👍❓❓❓❓
How did you get Steven Seagal to do this video?
Does Harbor Freight sell those Cleco tool and fasteners? 😎
Dave Wargo No I’ve never seen them at Harbor freight. The only spot that I’ve seen them is eBay or Amazon thanks for watching
ebay, amazon or aircraft spruce and specialty.
I like clecos too , but I like Dzus fasteners more . Can't have one without the other . At least not worth a shit.
Dick Danger clecos are for fab work. Dzus fasteners are for drag racing right?
Same thing here in Germany Brother, my daughter had an accident on her way to Spain with her Nissan Maxima QX which is a Infiniti i30 in the US. The drill bit we did the same method because this spring loaded pin is a PITA. Keep up the good work actually I stoped by to check those Clecos out. Here's how we did it ua-cam.com/users/shortsr1MeVe5Uf10?si=SaGtMmGkkoMU1E73
First!!! 😅
Where does the hole go
Weld it closed and grind it clean
It is cut off with the rest if the scrap part
i think hes on the blow, not that theres anything wrong with that , anyone else notice that
just an honest hard worker that shares his shortcuts, wish you could do the same...Pappy
@@OutlawEdge right off her tits lol koo video man..im ordering me some clecos
Y does he keep sniffiling
Jimmy Johnson maybe cause i had a cold. UA-cam is nothing but whining ass bitches. Why do they always troll? Lol. Theres many other videos to waste your time watching 👍
White dust be around :)
Belt sander is a thousand times faster those drill things never work worth shit
Darrel Holmgren belt sander for what? These clecos only hold the panel in place to be welded properly. Isnt a belt sander for woodworking? Thanks for watching
Darrel, please post a video on how to remove spot welds with a belt sander. I am curious about your technique.
Pop rivits
use panel adhesive
buck smith other shops use adhesive but we weld all our panels. Someday i will try the adhesive. Thanks for watching
glue is never going to compete with welding
@@OutlawEdge To glue on a F-150, 8 ft box side, you need about 10 good buddies, every clamp/vice grip you can get, and a glue-free test run. No beer until success!! It is like a shuttle launch, ONE chance to victory.