You ever think about live streaming? Simple 2 camera set up. One at the vehicle and one at the bench blah blah Love your vids, contributing to the algorithm
When i was doing my apprentiship in the late 70s,my instructor would go berserk if he caught you using the side of a grinding wheel to sharpen drill bits!!! He reckoned that over time,it would weaken the wheel to the point of it "blowing apart"!!!! Personly,i have never had an issue with them!! 1 tip i was giver on sharpening drill bits was to get a reasonable cutting angle was to place 2 hex nuts together so you have the flats providing an angle that you place the bit cutting edge up to,it will provide you with about 120 degrees and that was near enought to the 60 degrees that the angle should be of each cutting face!!!! Brilliant work again,i look forward to the new videos with relish!!!!! Well done Tony!!!!!!
I did metalwork at school and we were told not to use the side of the wheel. I do use the side occasionally, but I don't press as hard as I may do with the front.
@@BrucePierson At Tech College we did an abrasive wheels course and was shown what happenes when a wheel blows apart!!! Shrapnel from the stone went everywhere at great speed and would result in catastrophic injury to anybody nearby!!! I have used the side to do a gentle grind but not too much!!! Ive had a 41/2" angle grinder grinding disc disintergrate whilst i was using it and that was bad enough,i was lucky as i had a leather welders apron on and that took 99% of the shrapnel but even so,my belly had severe brusing for a week after!!!
@@gordyminiman Yes, definitely only light pressure on the side of the wheel and infrequently. I've had a 4" angle grinder cutting disc explode on me twice, but both times, the shrapnel went away from me because I always have a guard on the angle grinder and it saved me from getting hit.
@@BrucePierson I always keep the guard on with cutting and sanding!!! Mind you,last year i was sanding a weld up and the disc bit into the corner of the weld and span the grider round on the handle(im left handed and always find it hard to sand with a right handed grinder as it only has 2 handle positions!!!) and cut in to my arm just above the wrist!!! No blood as the plastic backing pad cauterised the cut but i still needed 7 stitches at the local Drs surgry much to the wifes relief as she doesnt drive and the nearest hospital A+E is over 12 miles away!!!!!
@@gordyminiman That was bad. Just as well that it "only" hit your arm and not your face. Fortunately, I've only had minor nicks from angle grinders, none requiring medical attention. I only ever use a 4" grinder, even though I have an 8" grinder, but I'm not game to use it. Someone gave it to me ages ago and it does work, but I decided not to use it in case I did what you did!! I hope you don't have any more incidents like that.
A complicated looking repair, that was repaired the simplest and easiest way to do this. Tony you and your step by step process makes a difficult job come together and you have a finish that appears to be factory finished. Another great job, thanks for the video and the tips also great. Later
"that was a rough piece, and now it's not" I love your channel Fitzee and this was one of the most impressive fixes. That sharp, round, sharp panel was beautifully made. Loads of great tips too. Fantastic stuff. Thank you!
i grew up in a garage ...im 53 now but i was getting carried away in buying tools for my projects ...i have a new project which is my hardest yet ...a BMW E30 its STR8 but flooring is rusted till its dust till ants made a large nest in the flooring ...was looking at some vdos to deal with rust ...& came across yours & another & i chose yours because your reminded me of my father ...so now I'm stoked I'm gonna do this like you & like my father ....your are a legend in these times ...my utmost respect
Love ya vids Fitzee just brought 2 of ya stick around tees, one for myself and one for my brother hopefully they get to nz by Christmas... keep em coming champ
Just thinking about Fitzee’s new T-shirt; Stick Around. For a bloke that doesn’t often use a stick welder, I wonder if the T-shirt could be; Keepin’ it Reel… just a thought🤔
Tony , one more step you can do to stop your bit from grabbing is grinding a very slight flat on both cutting edges parallel to the axis of the drill bit on your 1/4 and 5/16 bits. This can be done on the side of your bench grinding wheel or using the side of a cutoff wheel. Give it a try, I'm a retired tool and die guy and learned this many years ago. I've enjoyed following your videos for couple of years now. Really enjoy your sheet metal repair videos.
@@NialPowerCork you can create the same effect by rubbing a flat sharpening stone against the the sharp cutting edge of the drill. Not the drill flutes but the working end of the bit to prevent the drill from trying to screw itself I to the previously drilled pilot hole. Hope this helps.
@@fitzeesfabrications hope this helps out. Works well on existing holes in thicker material and avoids a hi torque drill motor wanting to break your arm.
I have been watching your video's over the last month to get tips on doing body work on my rotting truck. All I can say is you have been my guiding light. With no previous body work experience( I'm a cabinet maker) I bought a cheep MIG welder and a sheet of 20 gauge sheet metal and made amazing patch repairs, even complex 2 piece in the wheel wells with rounded edges. I wish I could post pictures of the before and after.
@@fitzeesfabrications Sorry bros. I don't do social media. I ordered new fender panels but the outer wheel houses are rotted out and are170.00 each.(04 Dodge) I'm looking at buying a used bead roller and attempting to make them myself with a tipping wheel and make 2 L shape pieces and spot weld them together to make the U.
Hello from Saskatchewan.. like the accent you sound just like my grandfather that lives on the island. Finally landed myself a job at a rusteration shop few hours away bin buisy packing and moving love doing this work now at 30 I finally found a shop that would take me on for a good wage. You never work a day in your life when you're like what you do. Autobody and rust repair has always bin a hobby of mine now It's going to be my career. Im enjoying the tips and tricks from the channel.
I did some Fitzee style panel repairs today on my 61 C10, pretty happy with them. after using some of your tips...But now watching you make those multiple bends and fabricate that hook, I'm amazed that you make it look so easy...it's not. But thanks for the inspiration.
FITZEE...I noticed on that thicker metal you were able to put a bit more heat on there and possibly weld 1/4 inch at a time to make that panel. This was because of the bend and because of the strength of that bend It would not warp as easily. I think on that small part it would have been beneficial to set up the camera and do it in high speed. It is an easy edit and easy to film, may have helped many people figure out how to do that small part. Great job though on what your doing. Love how you teach people how to simplify the repairs down to small parts.
... after attempting to drill out the spot welds with just one pass of the 1/4" bit, I can attest to the fact that it's more difficult. The bit walks and it takes a lot more force to get just one weld out. Starting with the 1/8" bit for s pilot hole is the way to go! ... then work up in bit sizes as suggested here. Great information! I should have watched this sooner.
I worked at a business that sold and installed truck accessories and tires. He had 2 guys that were tire men and only wanted to do tires. They would get assigned to install something like air bags on a truck to level them with a load. They would try to drill through the new frames with high strenth steel directly with a 1/2" drill bit. Needless to say they could melt the ends off faster than I could sharpen them. Finally got it through their skulls to center punch the hole location and drill a 1/8" pilot hole. Then work up to the 1/2" drill.
When fixing that little hook, you fooled me. I thought that one side was so Rusty you'd cut it off and add on another piece of metal instead. It must be a pain in the butt trying to weld and build up the rusty spots in metal that thin. Turned out excellent. 👍
Hey Tony, great video as usual. I'm rebuilding the bed on my 64 F100. Hundreds of spot welds:( Tomorrow I'll start with the inner bed walls and then the four panels in front and behind the the wheel wells. My plan is to fill the center with wood. You've been a great help! Thanks!
Instead of the starter drill , I use a machinist 1/8 center drill in carbide. Works like a small step drill so the next drill does not have to cut much. 6$ ,two sides and lasts about 100 spot welds. We don't use spotweld cutters anymore. They ended up being a waist of time and money for the work we do. Really like your explanation of work done.
After running a small pilot drill 1/8 or so I switched to them tin coated step drills and keep givener till I’ve drilled the required spot weld diameter needed. I gave up on them spot weld drills too!
buy a good annular cutter spot weld cutter and it will last way longer,55 bucks and ive been using the same one everyday for the last 3 years. doing it with the drills takes forever. if u can justify shop time because u have to buy a 14 dollar tool every week doesnt make sense to me because my labor rate is 160 an hour so i would buy 5 of those a day over diong the same job 3 times to get a panel off.
Great Video! I 'm always open to learning. Thank you for the detailed description of each step in the process. I love how you revived the hook. I do similar things in my shop.
Another beautiful repair! Loved the tip on sharpening drill bits and using a flattened drill bit to clean up before spot welding. Great stuff as always.
Thank you Tony, simplicity, love it 👍 I think you’ve found your retirement hobby, making a series of dolphin artwork from old pick up hooks and hanging them on your wall, like the old ceramic ducks haha you’ll be the hit of the town an overnight UA-cam sensation lol keep up the great work 😊
Love how you said, you built the handle with your bare hands. I would do the same thing but, start with cardboard templates first the hammer form the metal. I love the challenge! Great job as usual.
Hey Fitzee. Try a Unibit after you get the 1/8" hole done. These things chew through sheet steel and make it easier to make a slightly larger hole here and there to break the weld free.
Just want to add that a quality step (Uni)bit is worlds better than the cheap ones. Project Farm did a video on the various brands. Spend the extra money
You sir, have been my muse for restoring my 1978 Fiat Spider. It’s my first project-my first welding and fabricating. I am soon to be a retired surgeon and am having a blast with my new patient (nice to be able to come in for lunch while leaving her on the table…). I loved the partial cut with the cutting wheel to get the sharp bend-brilliant.
Yeah, I bought several types of spotweld cutters. Now I have a box of broken spotweld cutters☹️. Now I just do like you do. I have removed and preserved some parts this way you just have to be careful.
The man knows his bits. I've put those gold titanium nitride bits in the Derex drill sharpener and they just never hold an edge like the old school hardened ones. Also it might be my technique, but with the spot weld cutter I always just blast through both pieces of sheet metal.
I tried the center punch followed by the spot weld cutter but find the cutter still walks since the center punch mark isn’t deep enough to hold the center pin on the cutter. I know drill a 1/8” hole (I try to only go through the first layer, but if I go through both no big deal) then the spot weld cutter stays put. Cheap eBay cutter, double sided, comes with 10 in a pack. Get about 15-20 welds cut per side
So many useful tips in this video. Your content is transforming my skills. Just a quick question about what you use pre-spot weld as the rust proofing paint you mention?
Great tips as always Tony. Have you done any videos on repairing drip rails? That's my next project and I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about it
Glad you don't mind calling out the trolls, Tony. No matter how good you are, there's some keyboard warrior with no ability whatsoever who has all the answers. That's OK. We appreciate your work. Stay with it!
That's a "lie to children". The tool pressure on the side of a flat wheel has to be much lower and the inexperienced are often also in a hurry, so the safe thing is to simply tell people not to do it. My 8" Wolf pedestal grinder has factory tool rests designed for using the side of the wheel and I always have when needed. Other myths are that getting any colour into a HSS bit whilst grinding will remove the temper. I was told that and then the next week we were brazing a piece of HSS to a shank to make a custom tool. Apparently the type of heat was somehow different?!
Love watching you work Fitzy!!! You inspire me to get out there and do some metal work. I always learn something new while watching you. Thanks. Keep tnese videoa coming.
When I was a teenager (I'm 71 now) my Dad taught me how to sharpen drill bits the same way that you do. I taught my son and grandson the same. That being said, even at my age I learn something new every time that you post a new video. You Sir, are a master craftsman. As always, I look forward to your next video.
Same here. My dad gave me a half-dozen industrial grade bits I've ground down to the point I can barely chuck them. I touch them up on my angle grinder.
If you can understand this Fitzy.. blunt the leading edge of your freshly sharpened 5/8 bit, i.e. put a tiny flat on it, the drill will cut just as well but won't tend to pull itself into the metal and catch. This is mainly meant for when you are enlarging a smaller hole.
This fella must really love that Datsun truck Tony!!!!! You damn near built ( or rebuilt as it were) the whole thing from scratch…. That’s gonna be a fine rig when she’s done…. Can’t wait til you start building that Toyota rocket you have there
When I drill through. I like to use a die grinder and carbide burr to remove the remaining hold on the welds. I defiantly like drilling through when you need to save both pieces.. It's really easy to do damage with a spot weld driller that pop loose or bend the sheet metal if you try to avoid drilling through. When practical. say on a rusty floor section. I like to cut out the piece very close to the spot welds. Then grind down the remain metal where the weld is until it's paper thin. Just peel it off with pilers, pry bar, etc. This is highly preferred when you can't see weld due to rust and you don't want to drill over head. Also, whatever primer you use. You should do a weld test. You want to make sure it doesn't peel when exposed to heat and doesn't just burn away even far from the weld. For Example ZeroRust, really doesn't like heat any where near it and will peel away from even a good distance from the welds. Not what you want. I usually use a weld through primer but I scratch it off in the holes.
This guy is the freaking body repair God, even the Jr. gods watch him for tips an tricks. My 05 yukon has never been straighter or more solid then it is now.
I love the way your brain works! It’s so cool how you could make that tricky piece
One peice at a time
@@fitzeesfabrications I need help please reach me
34:01 How many people understood the 'Rolls Canardly' reference? 😁
It rolls down the hill Canardly get up the other side. Good old saying for way back in the uk
Watching a master at his craft. So enjoyable👍🍺
Incredible job on the hold down hook
Fitzee you are a real wizard. Great job.
Cheers. 🍻
You ever think about live streaming? Simple 2 camera set up. One at the vehicle and one at the bench blah blah
Love your vids, contributing to the algorithm
your craftsmanship is music to my ears, great!
This kind of stuff you don’t learn over nite, great learning tips. Thank’s Fitizee!
Good stuff, I did a cut and butt today on the drivers side trunk rain gutter on my 66 Malibu.
When i was doing my apprentiship in the late 70s,my instructor would go berserk if he caught you using the side of a grinding wheel to sharpen drill bits!!! He reckoned that over time,it would weaken the wheel to the point of it "blowing apart"!!!! Personly,i have never had an issue with them!! 1 tip i was giver on sharpening drill bits was to get a reasonable cutting angle was to place 2 hex nuts together so you have the flats providing an angle that you place the bit cutting edge up to,it will provide you with about 120 degrees and that was near enought to the 60 degrees that the angle should be of each cutting face!!!! Brilliant work again,i look forward to the new videos with relish!!!!! Well done Tony!!!!!!
I did metalwork at school and we were told not to use the side of the wheel. I do use the side occasionally, but I don't press as hard as I may do with the front.
@@BrucePierson At Tech College we did an abrasive wheels course and was shown what happenes when a wheel blows apart!!! Shrapnel from the stone went everywhere at great speed and would result in catastrophic injury to anybody nearby!!! I have used the side to do a gentle grind but not too much!!! Ive had a 41/2" angle grinder grinding disc disintergrate whilst i was using it and that was bad enough,i was lucky as i had a leather welders apron on and that took 99% of the shrapnel but even so,my belly had severe brusing for a week after!!!
@@gordyminiman Yes, definitely only light pressure on the side of the wheel and infrequently. I've had a 4" angle grinder cutting disc explode on me twice, but both times, the shrapnel went away from me because I always have a guard on the angle grinder and it saved me from getting hit.
@@BrucePierson I always keep the guard on with cutting and sanding!!! Mind you,last year i was sanding a weld up and the disc bit into the corner of the weld and span the grider round on the handle(im left handed and always find it hard to sand with a right handed grinder as it only has 2 handle positions!!!) and cut in to my arm just above the wrist!!! No blood as the plastic backing pad cauterised the cut but i still needed 7 stitches at the local Drs surgry much to the wifes relief as she doesnt drive and the nearest hospital A+E is over 12 miles away!!!!!
@@gordyminiman That was bad. Just as well that it "only" hit your arm and not your face. Fortunately, I've only had minor nicks from angle grinders, none requiring medical attention. I only ever use a 4" grinder, even though I have an 8" grinder, but I'm not game to use it. Someone gave it to me ages ago and it does work, but I decided not to use it in case I did what you did!! I hope you don't have any more incidents like that.
Im new to doing rust repair work on my car. We are so lucky to have Fitzee share his knowledge with us all. Cheers from Australia ;)
Keep up the good work Fitzee! Helps in my projects that I’m documenting myself
I learn something new every time I watch your videos.
Thank you sooo much for sharing. 🙂
A complicated looking repair, that was repaired the simplest and easiest way to do this. Tony you and your step by step process makes a difficult job come together and you have a finish that appears to be factory finished. Another great job, thanks for the video and the tips also great. Later
I really miss seeing your work and it puts me in a good mood
Another interesting and informative video showing how to go about a very tricky repair.
I really miss seeing your work and it puts me in a good mood
"that was a rough piece, and now it's not" I love your channel Fitzee and this was one of the most impressive fixes. That sharp, round, sharp panel was beautifully made. Loads of great tips too. Fantastic stuff. Thank you!
More great tips from the master i love how he keeps it so simple
Awesome episode! Your a great teacher
i grew up in a garage ...im 53 now but i was getting carried away in buying tools for my projects ...i have a new project which is my hardest yet ...a BMW E30 its STR8 but flooring is rusted till its dust till ants made a large nest in the flooring ...was looking at some vdos to deal with rust ...& came across yours & another & i chose yours because your reminded me of my father ...so now I'm stoked I'm gonna do this like you & like my father ....your are a legend in these times ...my utmost respect
The best tutoring on car restorations. Common sense solutions which have transformed my skills on restoring a classic car. Thank you
Love ya vids Fitzee just brought 2 of ya stick around tees, one for myself and one for my brother hopefully they get to nz by Christmas... keep em coming champ
Thank you
Just thinking about Fitzee’s new T-shirt; Stick Around. For a bloke that doesn’t often use a stick welder, I wonder if the T-shirt could be; Keepin’ it Reel… just a thought🤔
Tony , one more step you can do to stop your bit from grabbing is grinding a very slight flat on both cutting edges parallel to the axis of the drill bit on your 1/4 and 5/16 bits. This can be done on the side of your bench grinding wheel or using the side of a cutoff wheel. Give it a try, I'm a retired tool and die guy and learned this many years ago. I've enjoyed following your videos for couple of years now. Really enjoy your sheet metal repair videos.
Your second guy to point this out. Very interesting. I love learning new things this one is a good one
I can’t quite visualise what you mean, any sketch anywhere I could look at?
@@NialPowerCork you can create the same effect by rubbing a flat sharpening stone against the the sharp cutting edge of the drill. Not the drill flutes but the working end of the bit to prevent the drill from trying to screw itself I to the previously drilled pilot hole. Hope this helps.
@@fitzeesfabrications hope this helps out. Works well on existing holes in thicker material and avoids a hi torque drill motor wanting to break your arm.
@@mjm7187 thank you, I’ll give that a shot. Appreciate it.
Love the video!! Your perspective of how to fix things is refreshing.
Thanks for the tips. You can see that this is something you master very well. When you do, it seems very easy.
I have been watching your video's over the last month to get tips on doing body work on my rotting truck. All I can say is you have been my guiding light. With no previous body work experience( I'm a cabinet maker) I bought a cheep MIG welder and a sheet of 20 gauge sheet metal and made amazing patch repairs, even complex 2 piece in the wheel wells with rounded edges. I wish I could post pictures of the before and after.
I have a facebook page just for that. Pop over and let us see your work.
@@fitzeesfabrications Sorry bros. I don't do social media. I ordered new fender panels but the outer wheel houses are rotted out and are170.00 each.(04 Dodge)
I'm looking at buying a used bead roller and attempting to make them myself with a tipping wheel and make 2 L shape pieces and spot weld them together to make the U.
You sir, are a genius. Thank you.
Nice job Fitzee, all the tips and tricks are great, learning a great deal. Thank you. Wishing you a wonderful Holiday Season. Take care 👍
Hello from Saskatchewan.. like the accent you sound just like my grandfather that lives on the island. Finally landed myself a job at a rusteration shop few hours away bin buisy packing and moving love doing this work now at 30 I finally found a shop that would take me on for a good wage. You never work a day in your life when you're like what you do. Autobody and rust repair has always bin a hobby of mine now It's going to be my career. Im enjoying the tips and tricks from the channel.
I did some Fitzee style panel repairs today on my 61 C10, pretty happy with them. after using some of your tips...But now watching you make those multiple bends and fabricate that hook, I'm amazed that you make it look so easy...it's not. But thanks for the inspiration.
Great tips -- as always - thanks for the content - each one provides great tips.
Love it!!! Always learning whenever I watch your videos 👌👌👌 now I need to make that vise grip jig you used for patching those plug holes.
You can buy them on line cheap. Harbor freight, princess auto carries them
FITZEE...I noticed on that thicker metal you were able to put a bit more heat on there and possibly weld 1/4 inch at a time to make that panel. This was because of the bend and because of the strength of that bend It would not warp as easily. I think on that small part it would have been beneficial to set up the camera and do it in high speed. It is an easy edit and easy to film, may have helped many people figure out how to do that small part. Great job though on what your doing. Love how you teach people how to simplify the repairs down to small parts.
Another great and useful vid. Thanks Fitzee
... after attempting to drill out the spot welds with just one pass of the 1/4" bit, I can attest to the fact that it's more difficult. The bit walks and it takes a lot more force to get just one weld out. Starting with the 1/8" bit for s pilot hole is the way to go! ... then work up in bit sizes as suggested here. Great information! I should have watched this sooner.
A good step drill bit works great for spot welds too. Great video, always look forward to your new ones 👍
Keep em coming, love watching em.
Another great video Tony. Keep 'em coming !
You always amaze me! To take something so old and rusty and make it new again is a wonderful talent. There’s a lot of artistry to what you do!
I worked at a business that sold and installed truck accessories and tires. He had 2 guys that were tire men and only wanted to do tires. They would get assigned to install something like air bags on a truck to level them with a load. They would try to drill through the new frames with high strenth steel directly with a 1/2" drill bit. Needless to say they could melt the ends off faster than I could sharpen them. Finally got it through their skulls to center punch the hole location and drill a 1/8" pilot hole. Then work up to the 1/2" drill.
After all the bad weather conditions you had, I'm glad to see you safe and we'll..
Excellent tips as usual, thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍
When fixing that little hook, you fooled me. I thought that one side was so Rusty you'd cut it off and add on another piece of metal instead. It must be a pain in the butt trying to weld and build up the rusty spots in metal that thin. Turned out excellent. 👍
The tips were good. Thank you!
Love the fab on the hook 🪝 😍 still my hero lol
Hey Tony, great video as usual. I'm rebuilding the bed on my 64 F100. Hundreds of spot welds:( Tomorrow I'll start with the inner bed walls and then the four panels in front and behind the the wheel wells. My plan is to fill the center with wood. You've been a great help! Thanks!
Love your work and enjoy how you explain what/why/how things are done. Great teacher. Thank you.
Instead of the starter drill , I use a machinist 1/8 center drill in carbide. Works like a small step drill so the next drill does not have to cut much. 6$ ,two sides and lasts about 100 spot welds. We don't use spotweld cutters anymore. They ended up being a waist of time and money for the work we do.
Really like your explanation of work done.
After running a small pilot drill 1/8 or so I switched to them tin coated step drills and keep givener till I’ve drilled the required spot weld diameter needed. I gave up on them spot weld drills too!
buy a good annular cutter spot weld cutter and it will last way longer,55 bucks and ive been using the same one everyday for the last 3 years. doing it with the drills takes forever. if u can justify shop time because u have to buy a 14 dollar tool every week doesnt make sense to me because my labor rate is 160 an hour so i would buy 5 of those a day over diong the same job 3 times to get a panel off.
Robert McDonald Do you have a link to where you get that two sided carbide but? I've seen guys using them, don't know where to get them.
I find spot weld drill bits don't last. Brilliant tips again, keep em coming. 👍
I guess im going to give the sharpening thing a go. Thanks Fitzee!
Great Video! I 'm always open to learning. Thank you for the detailed description of each step in the process. I love how you revived the hook. I do similar things in my shop.
Another beautiful repair! Loved the tip on sharpening drill bits and using a flattened drill bit to clean up before spot welding. Great stuff as always.
Thank you Tony, simplicity, love it 👍 I think you’ve found your retirement hobby, making a series of dolphin artwork from old pick up hooks and hanging them on your wall, like the old ceramic ducks haha you’ll be the hit of the town an overnight UA-cam sensation lol keep up the great work 😊
Love how you said, you built the handle with your bare hands. I would do the same thing but, start with cardboard templates first the hammer form the metal. I love the challenge! Great job as usual.
Love your videos ❤️
❤ love watching you shape and work the metal ❤
Hey Fitzee. Try a Unibit after you get the 1/8" hole done. These things chew through sheet steel and make it easier to make a slightly larger hole here and there to break the weld free.
Just want to add that a quality step (Uni)bit is worlds better than the cheap ones. Project Farm did a video on the various brands. Spend the extra money
I've driven a couple of those Rolls-Kan'ardlys! 😄🤣 I love you channel.
fantastic work and explanation Frizee
Awesome, very helpful sir. Thank you!
Another educational excellent video. Very nice repair.
New subscriber....REALLY enjoy your channel! Thanks for sharing your talents.
love your work champ vinnei from down under
another great repair awesome job
You sir, have been my muse for restoring my 1978 Fiat Spider. It’s my first project-my first welding and fabricating. I am soon to be a retired surgeon and am having a blast with my new patient (nice to be able to come in for lunch while leaving her on the table…). I loved the partial cut with the cutting wheel to get the sharp bend-brilliant.
Many thanks for such great tips!
Removing my rear quarters in favor of OEM metal gtr rear ones soon. Seen many different youtubers do it. So this is nice to add to the library
Yeah, I bought several types of spotweld cutters. Now I have a box of broken spotweld cutters☹️. Now I just do like you do. I have removed and preserved some parts this way you just have to be careful.
Spot-on!!
The man knows his bits. I've put those gold titanium nitride bits in the Derex drill sharpener and they just never hold an edge like the old school hardened ones. Also it might be my technique, but with the spot weld cutter I always just blast through both pieces of sheet metal.
How about a Bob's your uncle shirt? Another great video.i hope we get a couple more before the holidays. Merry Christmas !!-
I tried the center punch followed by the spot weld cutter but find the cutter still walks since the center punch mark isn’t deep enough to hold the center pin on the cutter. I know drill a 1/8” hole (I try to only go through the first layer, but if I go through both no big deal) then the spot weld cutter stays put. Cheap eBay cutter, double sided, comes with 10 in a pack. Get about 15-20 welds cut per side
So many useful tips in this video. Your content is transforming my skills. Just a quick question about what you use pre-spot weld as the rust proofing paint you mention?
Great tip again
We had a rolls canadlly ,it roll down the hill and can hardly get up
Yes the old pickups vs new, big difference. The new ones have a few spot-welds and the same panels are then finished with glue 😢
Great tips as always Tony. Have you done any videos on repairing drip rails? That's my next project and I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about it
No I haven't done any videos but done them in the past. Crusty project might have something rusty on thr drip rail.
🙋🏼♂️boa noite irmão parabéns amigo pelo seu trabalho 🙌🏻 👍🏻 🇧🇷
haha I am about to remove 100 spot welds on a roof and I am going to do my best to save as much as possible. Wish me luck!
Wonderful!! It's a real treat when when I get a prompt that you have another video come up. Keep them coming!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
RecurringUndergrowthSurfacingTomorrow.... Thanks for sharing.
As I expected, another Great video! Thanks
Glad you don't mind calling out the trolls, Tony. No matter how good you are, there's some keyboard warrior with no ability whatsoever who has all the answers. That's OK. We appreciate your work. Stay with it!
Amazing work. Enjoy your channel and the content. Happy Holidays to you and yours! 😊👍🏻
Nicely done 👍🏼
Great tips, ty
Giving my old shop teacher the fits by grinding on the side of that wheel. Lol. Great stuff Tony!
I can hear my old foreman telling me "thats a ****** time bomb lad"
That's a "lie to children". The tool pressure on the side of a flat wheel has to be much lower and the inexperienced are often also in a hurry, so the safe thing is to simply tell people not to do it. My 8" Wolf pedestal grinder has factory tool rests designed for using the side of the wheel and I always have when needed.
Other myths are that getting any colour into a HSS bit whilst grinding will remove the temper. I was told that and then the next week we were brazing a piece of HSS to a shank to make a custom tool. Apparently the type of heat was somehow different?!
Love watching you work Fitzy!!! You inspire me to get out there and do some metal work. I always learn something new while watching you. Thanks. Keep tnese videoa coming.
My sharpened drill bit would look like that broken bit 🤷🏻♂️
I have been doing this type of revamping for a lot of years I’m 69 but you sir are a craftsman pleasure to watch
When I was a teenager (I'm 71 now) my Dad taught me how to sharpen drill bits the same way that you do. I taught my son and grandson the same. That being said, even at my age I learn something new every time that you post a new video. You Sir, are a master craftsman. As always, I look forward to your next video.
Same here. My dad gave me a half-dozen industrial grade bits I've ground down to the point I can barely chuck them. I touch them up on my angle grinder.
@@Silverhorn2 Same here. My wife bought me a jig to sharpen drill bits, it’s still in the package some where in tool box #2.
well, looks like Peanut viewed and approved this spot weld edition ...lol, keep em' coming Tony, it's getting cold to play outside ...
Спасибо огромное за то, что вы делитесь своими секретами в работе. Все было очень понятно и очень интересно.
If you can understand this Fitzy.. blunt the leading edge of your freshly sharpened 5/8 bit, i.e. put a tiny flat on it, the drill will cut just as well but won't tend to pull itself into the metal and catch.
This is mainly meant for when you are enlarging a smaller hole.
awesome video's i really enjoy watching and learning from you
Wow what timing! Currently cutting out the remnants of the old floors and firewall out of my 70 Challenger. Great tips!
This fella must really love that Datsun truck Tony!!!!! You damn near built ( or rebuilt as it were) the whole thing from scratch…. That’s gonna be a fine rig when she’s done…. Can’t wait til you start building that Toyota rocket you have there
Love the music montage! I love your videos Tony. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with us all!
When I drill through. I like to use a die grinder and carbide burr to remove the remaining hold on the welds. I defiantly like drilling through when you need to save both pieces.. It's really easy to do damage with a spot weld driller that pop loose or bend the sheet metal if you try to avoid drilling through. When practical. say on a rusty floor section. I like to cut out the piece very close to the spot welds. Then grind down the remain metal where the weld is until it's paper thin. Just peel it off with pilers, pry bar, etc. This is highly preferred when you can't see weld due to rust and you don't want to drill over head. Also, whatever primer you use. You should do a weld test. You want to make sure it doesn't peel when exposed to heat and doesn't just burn away even far from the weld. For Example ZeroRust, really doesn't like heat any where near it and will peel away from even a good distance from the welds. Not what you want. I usually use a weld through primer but I scratch it off in the holes.
This guy is the freaking body repair God, even the Jr. gods watch him for tips an tricks. My 05 yukon has never been straighter or more solid then it is now.