I’v used Corroseal on several pickups over the years and it has held up exceptionly well here in Kansas. it MUST be top coated. Spray enamel is a lousy topcoat for a truck frame. I always topcoat with 3m undercoating. Much thicker than enamel and designed to reduce chipping.
You are the man, those guys who make the product should see your review and is what we want to see as consumers, my question is what product is the best because I bought a car from Ohio and has rust problems that I need to fix but with a bunch of products I just need to get the best to treat this rust problem at once obviously I wont use corroseal thank you for taking the time to share the video and for taking the time to do the real test
Glad you found it helpful! Unfortunately, I don’t have a good solution. A product of personal high interest (which I have Not personally tried and do not have any personal experience with) is Cosmoline RP-342 Heavy Rust Preventative (Military-Grade). Something to look into. www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/?gclid=CjwKCAiAiKuOBhBQEiwAId_sKw1lY7j3ESOA-rhaJJMujmAi64AYDQBEgKo88yPhLjUqsto45x1TIxoC8RgQAvD_BwE Another product that I have heard good things about is Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer amzn.to/3qzPfqz I have coated the bottom of my vehicle with a couple different products for this winter and plan to do a review video in the spring on how they have held up. In the end, my personal opinion is that when rust takes over, it cannot be stopped.
Tells me all I need to know. my truck is really rusty underneath and I'd like to stop as much as I could before it rusts through. But it just seems like it'll eventually just have to rust. Awesome video.
Glad you found it helpful! I have had mixed results with this product. I have had the best success on a vehicle frame with Corroseal, then a top coat of rustoleum oil based brush on paint. The oil based is not water soluble and will hold up much longer. But, in the end, I agree that rust is likely inevitable once it starts.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I wonder how it would respond to enamel paint or undercoating. Or even something like fluid film. I appreciate the time you put into it. Not everyone is that patient
@@JMPK23 you got it, I never wash my jeeps, I only use this and fluid film "every year" my 2003 looks as good as my 2013, I'm on the east coast of Canada, salt, snow, rain, mud, ocean spray, rocks... you get the point, but just like fluid film... it has to be maintained, meaning it needs to be reapplied as needed, but this guy grinds the rust off... like that's not making the metal thinner. I would rather have the surface rust, lol
@capnspicy5565 from all of the research I can find since I started looking into this, the only way to prevent it completely is to clean the frame, Epoxy primer and then use an oil based paint, and then use something like fluid film. That or use fluid film once a car rolls off the lot. My silverado definitely benefited when I used a variety of different stuff as a test but ultimately it's still rusting. Only thing I haven't tried is POR15 and I'm trying to save that for my C10 when I'm ready
Glad to hear it’s appreciated. I have several videos that I started this year, but I’m waiting until next year to complete the videos and post them to show long-term results. Thanks!
Ok, thanks. Don’t worry, this was not a permanent application. I needed a short term coating to protect the Corroseal, and I needed it to be clear to be able to see what the Corroseal was doing under the protective coating. Automotive clear coat was a practical choice and it served the purpose. I am not advocating to top coat rust converter with clear coat. This was just a test.
I live on the east coast of Canada, I think the issue is... you expect it to convert the metal into stainless or aluminum, There is no product that will do what you're expecting, short of having it chromed or galvanized... I use this and fluid film on my wranglers, one is an 03 the other's a 13, you see rust, you convert it, end of story, fluid film slows down the amount of time between applications, just out of curiosity, how often do you take it through the car wash?
I just did this for a test, but I personally have no faith in rust converters. I use Blaster Surface Shield every fall, which is similar to Fluid Film. I definitely don’t wash my vehicles as often as I would like to. There is nothing convenient on my regular routes. When I get it washed in the winter, it’s covered in salt again the next day. Loosing battle.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I've watched your videos and seen your results, they definitely differ from mine, I wonder if yours froze at some point, like during shipping, could also be from washing with soap and water, it removes lanolin, the base of fluid film and blaster surface shield. as well vinegar is used to remove latex paint, corroseal is latex based, I noticed you used vinegar in one of your tests, water based latex isn't the strongest barrier, think of house paint. I have places on my 03 jeep that the paint chipped on the hood and surface rusted, I put corroseal on them 4 years ago and they're still black. but I don't ever wash my jeeps. I don't know, I hope you find something that works though, because F*ck Rust.
When you use corroseal you should use Chassie seal not spray paint. Spay paint isn't Durable enough on its own and some have pores like your skin and that's why it can rust underneath the paint
In someone elses video, they used 3 coats of corroseal.. then topcoated with automotive paint. Maybe multiple layers creates a thicker and more durable seal? And what about topping it with rubberized undercoating?
I’m personally not a fan of rubberized undercoating. It is a soft coating that absorbs salt and dirt. They embed into the coating and cannot be cleaned off. Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched comparing rust converters. ua-cam.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/v-deo.html
I spot treated some minor rust on the welds on my F150, I was going to coat it with POR15, but your video has me concerned. Any idea if POR15 or maybe a lanolin based product would work better over corroseal than the clearcoat did ? BTW, corroseal did a great job of turning my gloves black and asphalt driveway white...
A friend of mine used POR15 on his Jeep frame and he said it didn’t even hold up for a year. I haven’t personally used it, so I don’t have any personal experience. I’m currently at the point of just using Rustoleum paint. I use oil based brush on, which is not water based and holds up great. Or just the spray can if brush on is not appropriate. Another product that you may want to look into is Cosmoline rp-342 I have not personally used it yet, but looks very promising.
I stuck a strip of adhesive backed foam on the back to act as a buffer between the steel bar and the underside of my vehicle. I didn’t want metal on metal contact all year. That could wear the paint off of my vehicle.
Yeah-- that’s too bad- that’s a very short time just 7 months and the Corroseal evidently does not really work-- that’s too bad-- I guess I’ll just stick to blasting the underside of my truck with water and then spraying Wed 40 all over it in the fall and then later in the winter on a warm ish day.
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
I have used Corroseal many times with mixed results. That’s why I wanted to see what was happening under the paint in this video; does it permanently convert rust, or does rust still continue to grow under the paint? I have also heard great things about Cosmoline. However, I believe it is indented to use directly on the metal surface. I’m not sure if it would provide a benefit if it is applied on top of paint. Mastercoat Silver was recently recommended. That may be another option to look into.
Corroseal sucks tbh. I wanted to like it but it always failed me. Try the same test with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Much easier to find and I have had far better luck with it.
Thanks for the real world test. The benefits of Corroseal seem to be minimal. Based on the amount of work, time and cost that goes into trying to stop rust on an already rusting vehicle frame, I would say the amount of grinding, cleaning, Corroseal treatment and painting is not worth the effort for this type of result.
I’v used Corroseal on several pickups over the years and it has held up exceptionly well here in Kansas. it MUST be top coated. Spray enamel is a lousy topcoat for a truck frame. I always topcoat with 3m undercoating. Much thicker than enamel and designed to reduce chipping.
You are the man, those guys who make the product should see your review and is what we want to see as consumers, my question is what product is the best because I bought a car from Ohio and has rust problems that I need to fix but with a bunch of products I just need to get the best to treat this rust problem at once obviously I wont use corroseal thank you for taking the time to share the video and for taking the time to do the real test
Glad you found it helpful!
Unfortunately, I don’t have a good solution.
A product of personal high interest (which I have Not personally tried and do not have any personal experience with) is Cosmoline RP-342 Heavy Rust Preventative (Military-Grade). Something to look into. www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/?gclid=CjwKCAiAiKuOBhBQEiwAId_sKw1lY7j3ESOA-rhaJJMujmAi64AYDQBEgKo88yPhLjUqsto45x1TIxoC8RgQAvD_BwE
Another product that I have heard good things about is Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer amzn.to/3qzPfqz
I have coated the bottom of my vehicle with a couple different products for this winter and plan to do a review video in the spring on how they have held up.
In the end, my personal opinion is that when rust takes over, it cannot be stopped.
I think its good. Might just need to reapply annually.
Yes!!!! I was waiting for this!!
Tells me all I need to know. my truck is really rusty underneath and I'd like to stop as much as I could before it rusts through. But it just seems like it'll eventually just have to rust. Awesome video.
Glad you found it helpful!
I have had mixed results with this product. I have had the best success on a vehicle frame with Corroseal, then a top coat of rustoleum oil based brush on paint. The oil based is not water soluble and will hold up much longer. But, in the end, I agree that rust is likely inevitable once it starts.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I wonder how it would respond to enamel paint or undercoating. Or even something like fluid film. I appreciate the time you put into it. Not everyone is that patient
@@JMPK23 you got it, I never wash my jeeps, I only use this and fluid film "every year" my 2003 looks as good as my 2013, I'm on the east coast of Canada, salt, snow, rain, mud, ocean spray, rocks... you get the point, but just like fluid film... it has to be maintained, meaning it needs to be reapplied as needed, but this guy grinds the rust off... like that's not making the metal thinner. I would rather have the surface rust, lol
@capnspicy5565 from all of the research I can find since I started looking into this, the only way to prevent it completely is to clean the frame, Epoxy primer and then use an oil based paint, and then use something like fluid film. That or use fluid film once a car rolls off the lot. My silverado definitely benefited when I used a variety of different stuff as a test but ultimately it's still rusting.
Only thing I haven't tried is POR15 and I'm trying to save that for my C10 when I'm ready
Awesome long term review. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful, happy to help!
Thank you! This video and the testing method are great.
I appreciate it. Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for long term review
Glad to hear it’s appreciated. I have several videos that I started this year, but I’m waiting until next year to complete the videos and post them to show long-term results. Thanks!
Clearcoat is not designed to be used directly on a converter, it is designed to be used on paint.
Ok, thanks. Don’t worry, this was not a permanent application. I needed a short term coating to protect the Corroseal, and I needed it to be clear to be able to see what the Corroseal was doing under the protective coating. Automotive clear coat was a practical choice and it served the purpose. I am not advocating to top coat rust converter with clear coat. This was just a test.
I live on the east coast of Canada, I think the issue is... you expect it to convert the metal into stainless or aluminum, There is no product that will do what you're expecting, short of having it chromed or galvanized... I use this and fluid film on my wranglers, one is an 03 the other's a 13, you see rust, you convert it, end of story, fluid film slows down the amount of time between applications, just out of curiosity, how often do you take it through the car wash?
I just did this for a test, but I personally have no faith in rust converters. I use Blaster Surface Shield every fall, which is similar to Fluid Film.
I definitely don’t wash my vehicles as often as I would like to. There is nothing convenient on my regular routes. When I get it washed in the winter, it’s covered in salt again the next day. Loosing battle.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I've watched your videos and seen your results, they definitely differ from mine, I wonder if yours froze at some point, like during shipping, could also be from washing with soap and water, it removes lanolin, the base of fluid film and blaster surface shield. as well vinegar is used to remove latex paint, corroseal is latex based, I noticed you used vinegar in one of your tests, water based latex isn't the strongest barrier, think of house paint. I have places on my 03 jeep that the paint chipped on the hood and surface rusted, I put corroseal on them 4 years ago and they're still black. but I don't ever wash my jeeps. I don't know, I hope you find something that works though, because F*ck Rust.
When you use corroseal you should use Chassie seal not spray paint. Spay paint isn't Durable enough on its own and some have pores like your skin and that's why it can rust underneath the paint
Chassis seal?
Wow that held up terribly, thanks for the insight!
Awesome video.
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
In someone elses video, they used 3 coats of corroseal.. then topcoated with automotive paint. Maybe multiple layers creates a thicker and more durable seal? And what about topping it with rubberized undercoating?
I’m personally not a fan of rubberized undercoating. It is a soft coating that absorbs salt and dirt. They embed into the coating and cannot be cleaned off.
Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched comparing rust converters. ua-cam.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/v-deo.html
I spot treated some minor rust on the welds on my F150, I was going to coat it with POR15, but your video has me concerned. Any idea if POR15 or maybe a lanolin based product would work better over corroseal than the clearcoat did ? BTW, corroseal did a great job of turning my gloves black and asphalt driveway white...
A friend of mine used POR15 on his Jeep frame and he said it didn’t even hold up for a year. I haven’t personally used it, so I don’t have any personal experience.
I’m currently at the point of just using Rustoleum paint.
I use oil based brush on, which is not water based and holds up great.
Or just the spray can if brush on is not appropriate.
Another product that you may want to look into is Cosmoline rp-342
I have not personally used it yet, but looks very promising.
Not much will protect from road salt or sea salt. Especially when the top coat is being blasted with road debris.
What did the other side of the bar look like?
I stuck a strip of adhesive backed foam on the back to act as a buffer between the steel bar and the underside of my vehicle. I didn’t want metal on metal contact all year. That could wear the paint off of my vehicle.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial - could also show you what an actual water impermeable coating would have done over the product.
Yeah-- that’s too bad- that’s a very short time just 7 months and the Corroseal evidently does not really work-- that’s too bad-- I guess I’ll just stick to blasting the underside of my truck with water and then spraying Wed 40 all over it in the fall and then later in the winter on a warm ish day.
I’m using Blaster Surface Shield every fall.
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
I have looked at quite a few Corroseal reviews and see your very same review word for word on every one of them. Do you work for Corroseal?
One million likes
I appreciate it! Glad you found it helpful!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial very real review of this stuff they must pay alot for advertising
I'm planning on applying corroseal, with a topcoat, and then cosmoline over top of that. Any reason why that wouldn't work?
I have used Corroseal many times with mixed results. That’s why I wanted to see what was happening under the paint in this video; does it permanently convert rust, or does rust still continue to grow under the paint?
I have also heard great things about Cosmoline. However, I believe it is indented to use directly on the metal surface. I’m not sure if it would provide a benefit if it is applied on top of paint.
Mastercoat Silver was recently recommended. That may be another option to look into.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial than you!
So the moral of the story is that rust is going to win anyways, no matter what you do.
That has been my experience.
Corroseal sucks tbh. I wanted to like it but it always failed me. Try the same test with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Much easier to find and I have had far better luck with it.
Thanks for the recommendation. I will look into it.
Strange... They both have the same chemical to convert rust.
@@dontblameme6328 which is?
@@FIVEVEEZEE Dilute phosphoric acid
@@lollerskates1992 no it doesn’t.
Thanks for the real world test. The benefits of Corroseal seem to be minimal. Based on the amount of work, time and cost that goes into trying to stop rust on an already rusting vehicle frame, I would say the amount of grinding, cleaning, Corroseal treatment and painting is not worth the effort for this type of result.
I think yours is about the fifth video I have watched on this product. It has failed every time. Useless product.
I agree.
Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched comparing rust converters. ua-cam.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/v-deo.html
Who cares it didn't hold for 1 year
It's a waste of time and money
This is the review i was looking for, this stuff is trash
Glad you found it helpful. I have not had good results with it over the last several years.