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First mistake was prolly buying studio paints (for students and studies, where you spent paint without care) instead of artist line. studio paints has less pigment in them, a bit more oil, and generally better to work impasto, not the qualities you would like for painting minis. oh, also, white spirit, thinner for your alcohol based paints and oils would be useless to strip water based acrylic paints/inks
I highly recommend that you check out "James Wappel" here on UA-cam. He got videos where he discuss basics, pros/cons, techniques etc while you get to watch him (mostly real time) paint minis with oils. The videos are long but worth it.
dood... Gamblin 1980 oil paints... whole set 37ml tubes... Gamsol... all at Michaels, use a coupon... dont give up... do base coat in acrylics then accent over with oils (and typed just as you got to that part on the vid) lol
Abteilung 502 paints dry much faster than artist oils. They are formulated specifically for models. Less oils in the tube but still have a longer working time than acrylics for blending and filtering. It's an alternative if you're interested in researching them. Also putting your artist oils on cardboard and letting it sit for awhile before using them will help soak the oils out of the paint. Modelers recommend this when using artist oils. You'll be amazed at the amount of oil that will soak into the cardboard.
You're not that wrong. We know that some of the Renaissance oil paintings are still wet at the very deepest layers. They were painted so thick that the base layers are pretty much never going to dry. #arthistorian
Yeah I came here to point this out. Years. It takes literally years for oil to dry on the lowest layer closest to the surface of whatever you painted on. This is extended on surfaces that don't have any airflow coming in from the back. In other words, an oil painting on wood panel will take longer to dry than oil on canvas (which on its back is exposed to the environment). And even canvas has been known to be wet for 80+ years. I can't imagine how long it takes for a surface like styrene or resin.
As someone who took a semester of oil painting. One tip i can give is, dawn dish soap is awesome for cleaning the paint! It’ll even get it out of clothes if you’re fast enough!
I paint with oils and acrylics on canvas, and I have some tips that might help! - As a lot of people are stating, oils take forever (weeks) to dry, especially on a nonabsorbent surface. Great for blending, not so great for something you'll be picking up. - You can put oils over acrylic- something that'd speed up your process is doing your base coats in acrylic. The acrylic has to be completely dry, and you CAN'T put acrylic over oils because the acrylic will eventually just crack and flake off. - Liquin is the thinner I use to do washes in oils on canvas. It's got all kinds of health hazards like flammability and skin irritation if you get it on you, but my washes dry within a few hours. I've used linseed oil and solvent free fluid to thin my oils, but liquin is by far my favorite because it dries much more quickly.
Yeah. Just make sure you let it sit long enough to cure before varnishing. On a canvas painting that can take months, but the curing time depends on a tonne of things, but mostly how thick the paint is and most of the time it's pretty thin when used for mini painting. So if you give it a week before you varnish you should be good to go.
YEEEEAH!! I came here to mention liquin! I use so much of it (canvas painting, not minis... YET) and it is a [Crippled] Godsend. 36" diagonal paintings, done in a few days!
@@power_SERG Exactly what Jay said. Because of this you should store the painting somewhere where dust won't accumulate - and fuse itself- on the painting. My college prof talked about how it took MONTHS for one of his to dry completely because he used that really thick, globby style of painting that probably has a name that I can't remember.
What I usually use oils for is a gung wash. It works best on larger flatter surfaces with panel lines and areas for the wash to collect. Take un-thinned oil and slap it on thick over a surface. Then take a lint free cloth and wipe it off. It will leave panel lines and other areas with a nice dirty look. Don't use too dark of oil over to light a surface because it can give a coffee stain appearance.
I swapped to using oils exclusively a while back, and it's something that slowly went from 'this is absolute rubbish' to 'this is the best way to paint things'. A large positive is that you can easily find what pigments are in paints, so color mixing is ezpz. Edit: Add Venetian red and a titanium white to your collection, and you'll have basically anything you'd want to mix basic skin tones (and also the entire palette I used for painting up a ton of goblins).
How different is the techniques from painting traditionally with oils versus painting a mini. From a traditional standpoint, the video was very cringeworthy, lol...though I give him a ton of credit for just jumping into it. I would think for minis, you really have to thin down the oils to a watery consistency to work well with layering and all?
@@mattheweble5550 You don't do layering like you would with acrylics, except if you need to reinforce highlights due to colors getting washed out (and this is only something you'll bother with if you're doing NMM). You do want to thin the oil paint down more than one would for painting on a canvas, but the trick is more to have very little paint on the brush. I'll reference something I did recently, as far as process goes, since I've found James Wappel's approach to be generally good for using oils: Goblin stabba - 0. Prime white, 1. Wash the sucker in a burnt umber/ivory black mix to get the deepest shadows, 2. Wipe off the excess with a sponge so that it only remains in the recesses, 3. Hit the areas with their midtone color (using very little paint on the brush, 4. Hit highlights/areas with color variation with the appropriate tones, blending if necessary (only needed on the cloth areas, where the gradients take up more room), 5. Go back a couple days later to reinforce highlights on the NMM sword and add edge highlights.
@@grady.flanary Ok...so in a sense...it's painting alla prima with really thinned down paints. Do you use any mediums to quicken the curing process on minis?
@@mattheweble5550 I don't bother with it. I'm thinning them down relatively heavily with spirits to begin with (compared to traditional oil painting), so that's making them dry a touch faster. I also like them being semi-workable for longer, since I put NMM on everything, so I like being able to blend the pure-/off-white highlights in slightly, since they get easily muddied if you put them on when doing the rest of it. (Quick edit: I also like them being workable longer so I can adjust blends if I look at the figure the next day or so and think something needs to be touched up, but I just want to use a dry blending brush instead of reactivating the paint/adding more) Dmitry Feschenko (ua-cam.com/video/mMFMFJQla6Y/v-deo.html) advocates using additives like that, as I recall, but he's also using thicker paint and focused far more on display painting, so the importance of having smooth blends you'd get from using mediums is more present.
I smiled heavily. I watched Marcos videos and took a diffrent approach. I painted some models from The Drowned Earth with Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black and White. I put a zenithal prime on and then my satisfaction increased exponetialy :) I put one color in and pushed the others from the shadows or the edge into it. My minis looking like the characters from "No one left to fight" and i love it.
I love these vids where you just try out new things in a process that is not a perfect designed "how to". This is totally my perspective to go through new subjects. Very nice :)
The fact that oil paints have a long dry time make them ideal for blending. Try using it on a magic orb where the colors go into each other. It's really fun to paint with. I am happy for u it's a extra tool in your skillfull hands.
Good idea to check the materials safety sheets for oil paint colors even if you're familiar with them for water/acrylic paints because some bad stuff is oil soluble and can be super bad if you accidentally breathe or eat it.
You inspired me to start crafting for my DnD group. Got some pillars made, and was up till 2am last night making like 300 bricks for some ruined modular walls. Love the videos man, thanks.
Hello,as always a cool video,with oil paints I have at the beginning problems with the drying time, but try thinning with lighter fluid, it dries much faster. greetings from Vienna Chris
Welcome to the world of oils! They are amazing and make blending so nice. There are oil accelerants that you can mix into your paints that take dry times from 24ish hours to 12ish hours.
Hey, so, My favorite mini painting streamer Eenie mini on twitch paints quite often w/ oil paint. she's really good at interacting w/ the chat and answers questions about it. She has a bunch of first hand experience. The problem is she just moved so it may be a few weeks until she pops back on streaming. Anyway, thought you might like a resource
This was a great video. It’s fun to see you experimenting with unconventional mediums like this. I wonder if it might be worth checking out water-mixable oil paint. It sounds crazy and I’ve been meaning to try them, but apparently they work very much like normal oils, but without the toxic thinners and if you water them down, they can supposedly dry much more quickly than traditional oils.
Well this was entertaining, the moment you said you were going to paint it entirely using oil paints I was saying no don't do it to my phone 😂 just so you know you can actually come back and use thinner to remove or blend the oil paints days, weeks or years later. Also it wouldn't be useful for this model, but for something with panel lines between armour or similar instead of applying the was all over just dot it (don't paint it) along the panel line and capillary action will draw it along the line for you and will only require minimal clean up where you dabbed the brush on the model. I'd also advise watching scale model videos such as nightshift, they've been using oil and enamel paints for years and do so much more with them than miniature painters.
Why do I have a feeling this is not going to end well? Time to hit play. OK, oil paint on the whole mini, not convinced that is a good thing. The problems I see are drying time, making the paint transparent enough to let the undercoat show, and strength of the hues. Oil paint as washes, looking really nice. I would like to see your results after some more practice.
next to white get also the primary colors magenta, cyan en primary yellow ;) It can take at least a week to dry I m gonna test my water soluble oil paints :) Check James Wappels on twitch or youtube, he s a Bob Ross for miniature painting with oils :)
No, I’m not laughing I was just thinking that even if they are odourless you should have paint in a well ventilated place, but apart from that oil paints are way better than acrylics. You should have bought red, yellow, white black and blue, so you will be able to mix any colour you want
Totally not to poop on the idea of oil paints for washes, but what is the point or benefit of using oils? I’ve used oil paints in a fine art mode and eventually abandoned them because of the pain in the ass maintenance requirements (slow drying time, solvents for thinner, pain to clean up, etc.) I’ve never used oil paints on minis, and I’m just going “why would you do that to yourself...?” Anyways, love all your work. Make a new video when the first one dries!
If you have tons of hours to learn enamel and oil painting on miniatures, check the Zatcaskagoon Miniatures channel, they are the best in the game Btw nice vid as always
@@JamesSmith-co1kt so true ! Marco is doing great job with vibrant color schemes, Zatcaskagoon Miniatures is my fav, just because he goes for the grimdark side of the force haha
As frightening as it is to disagree here, Oil paint does have a shelf life and most people will throw out much of those large tubes. Absolutely there is a huge difference in cheap and quality oil paint but there is middle ground that is perfectly fine to experiment with. Middle quality paint in smaller tube goes for $3 a tube and even cheaper in small sets. More than good enough to decide if oil painting is for you. There are water mixable oil paints and odorless thinners for regular oils. There are various products to thin oil paints with that have different effects including vastly speeding up drying time. Over working oil paints makes mud. If mud is your goal then that is a benefit. If you are not making mud resist the temptation to over work the paint. Less is better. . .
Same thoughts for me! I was already typing the comment when he mentioned him. Marco provides such quality tutorials for advanced painters and beginners alike.
Check James Wappel's channel and his Twitch - the struggle when transitioning to oil colours is normal but once you understand how to layer the paints and to work with thinner it's a whole new world.
I agree. If you're really interested check him out, and he is always willing to help if you have questions about anything. Tons of videos from start to finish on using paints.
Crafters brain: Get the larger one, its cheaper and you'll use it for other crafts Crafter: Naw, I should just get enough to test the product out first Crafters brain: Ummmm did I stutter?
Fun fact: Regarding the smell of grass to the oil paints, the oil medium in many oil paints - linseed oil - is as the name implies extracted from flax seeds and is edible. The pigments on the other hand...
Pigment is also why oil is so expensive. Acrylic paint uses little plastic beads to make up the pigment. Oil generally uses raw materials (although there are synthetic pigments, like aquamarine blue). During the Renaissance, artists had to create pigment from titanium, dirt, coal, beetle shells, etc. which is where a lot of names for colors comes from. It's why artists worked almost exclusively on commission from the Church, nobility, or other rich patrons like the Medici banking family in Italy. They literally had to mine colors, such as cobalt, in places like the Congo, then ship it to the Netherlands/Italy/France/Britain. What's really interesting is seeing the way artists would "cheat" in order to get more out of their paints. For instance, using something like Indigo Blue to cover large areas, then highlight with Cobalt Blue to trick the eye into thinking the entire thing was Cobalt.
Just in case no one has said also check out James Wappel. I was just as scared to try oils but they are sooooooo much fun when you understand what you need to do as its a totally different method of painting.
Full bodied oil paints take literally months to fully cure. You can touch the surface after several days, but it's not really set for a very long time. Your solution for starting with acrylics and then oil washing over is perfect. Also, usually acrylic is immune to oil thinners so a clear coat between layers isn't needed. Test that, thought, I'm not sure it holds for all different kinds of thinners.
I use oils frequently and I've found the only thing you really need to be mindful of with using them on acrylics is washes and thin paints like contrast paints. Those can come off if they're in a very thin layer or if they haven't dried fully, but other than that you can use them together without a whole lot of trouble.
I think the logic behind clear coating before oil washes is just to protect against physically rubbing the acrylic away when you dab it with your cotton bud or whatever. It certainly doesn't thin acrylic. I think it's mostly a belt and braces approach.
@@kallisto9166 yeah that makes sense. I HAVE had mineral spirits rub off my primer until it got down to bare plastic, but i was really scrubbing. I will say however that I do varnish oils before putting acrylics on them. I've had some weird spotting happen before, especially with washes.
Varnishes are tricky... Supposedly, you protect the acrylic with them, but they often get crackled or gunky when in contact with thinners... I've learned to avoid them, except at the very end of the process. If you stay away from cotton and those damn fibers and use a brush dumped in turpentine instead, you'll have much more control.
Oils can be great fun and is a challenge worth trying out. So glad to see you branching out and trying new things! I find that a good gloss varnish before adding the wash makes all the difference, and then this again to fix before adding another layer. They also do thinners/ mineral oil they say is odorless, there's still a slight smell but not what you're used to.
This video pretty much shows why I am always amazed by anyone who attempts to use oils to paint their minis. The amount of patience involved is incredible.
Windsor & Newton makes a set of really nice "water mixable" oils. They behave like oils, but you can clean up/ thin with soap and water. They're a great choice if you're working in an enclosed space and/or don't want to use solvents.
I've been using those and I'm becoming a bit skeptical of them. Had some great results, but also some problems. One major thing is the fact that when you thin with water instead of alcohol you lose the flow that seems to be one of the things that make oil washes really great. I've also had some weird interactions with other colors, especially inks, but that might be due to not having enough varnish between layers. Actually planning to get some regular oils for next time I'm painting to compare, but haven't done it yet.
@@nightdew4934 Have you tried them with spirits instead of water? I know the cool feature of them is the water soluble aspect but I think they work like normal oil paints of you use spirits
@@BurntWeeny435 That's a good idea. I've been on somewhat of a break from miniature painting, but I'll try that once I get back to it. Smaller tubes of oil paint are pretty cheap though, so I'll probably get at least a black or something to compare with.
Watching this and hearing that you'll try entirely using oils... I can see where this will go. Haven't watched much yet, but I am predicting that your idea of oil paint then oil wash will not work, as the basecoat will take forever to dry. Always basecoat with acrylics, then use oils for either washes or blends, in my opinion. Also, I primarily use thick paint, as I find it easier to manipulate, but that is opinion, and not really guidance.
I'm only halfway through the video so you've probably already figured this out, but I want to pass this along in case it can be of help. (not commenting from my art channel whoops) I paint model horses in oils, and with model horses you have to have a super flat, non-textured end surface or it won't sell as well as it could. I've figured out in my own trial and error, that oils are the opposite of acrylics. Use a drying agent to speed up the drying process (I use cobalt but there are others) and don't overdo it or you could get cracking from the oils drying too quickly. (and use thin layers, they'll dry to a workable layer-over state overnight) White and black stay wet a lot longer than other pigments, so plan for that when using them. Use mineral spirits to clean your brush in-between layers if you don't want brush textures; don't thin your paint Use the paint straight out of the tube and put it on an absorbent palette like cardboard to absorb excess oil. add a drop of drier and mix it in, and then take a very small amount on your brush, and dry-brush onto the model. Oils spread, so you're able to work it in a dry-brush way a LOT more than with acrylics Other than that, play around with different soft brushes (I use acrylic-intended brushes for oil painting) and shapes, and try different stroke techniques to get different effects. Ever since figuring out how to use oils to paint models, I really only use my airbrush for base coats anymore :D Keep up the great content!!
I LOVE Marco’s videos! He does such a good job explaining how to use other mediums for miniature painting. I was so excited to hear you give him a shout out! He needs more love! I’m also quite enjoying your new inspirational experiments! Keep up the awesomeness!
4 year degree from expensive art school talking: (explained in mini painting terms) First, paint thinner (turpentine) is used to clean your brush, not as the paint medium (what you thin the paints with). With Acrylic water is your cleaner and your medium. For this, you want to be using a fast drying oil medium like Liquin to get your paint to the consistency you want (aka thin). Then use the turp rinse your brush. The only real harmful chemical to breath in is the terp. Get a small Silicoil Brush cleaning jar. Fill it to the coil (half full-ish) and it will last you for a real long time. After your done for the session wash out your brush with some brush soap. Also, don't mix your oil painting brushes with your acrylic brushes. Once they are used for oil, I wouldn't use them for acrylic again. Turp residue will breakdown the paint.
Experimentation, experimentation, experimentation. Trial and Error, this is what I love about the hobby. Again and again trying new things is always fun and challenging at times with results to learn from and appreciate.
Sometimes rushing headlong into things like that is fruitful and produces unexpected results. Also can be quite fun! Don't bash yourself for not studying oils beforehand - we all do that from time to time... and begin checking the manuals only after breaking our new toys 😉 Your first treant should fully dry in about a month (but the outer layers must cure quicker and allow for finishing touches) and will be rocking the bookshelf along with his friend. Thank you for this unusual episode, personally I'm sure going to dig out my old oil paints and see if I can make washes out of them!
Gotta say the reason I enjoy your videos so much is your willingness to explore new things without fear of making mistakes. Gives me the bravery to try new things and just jump in! Very cool project!
First try was LOL. But seriously: For oil painting you NEED to do some research first. Besides Mr.Frisoni amazing videos, there are others way more detailed explaining how to do GORGEOUS blends EASILY, using oils over acrylic paint. And also: Abteilung 502 man, really. In the end, you will end up trying NMM with EASE, using oil blending methods. Try it!
Buy some Abteilung 502 oil paints. They are made for miniatures. They are made with less linseed oil. Winsor Newton paints have a ton on linseed oil therefore take a long time to dry. Then you could go back and try the same way you were first painting. A tree would not showcase their strengths though. The washes as you found out would be great. The oil paint would give you blends with very little effort. Get the Abteilung 502 skin set and paint a bust. That is the next level. Undercoat in acrylic NO NEED TO CLEAR COAT...waste of time.
As soon as I heard you talking about drying times I knew disaster was imminent. My wife does oil paintings on canvas and she talks about it taking months to dry. She puts on thicker coats but yeah, it takes a while. A lot of the miniature painters I watch talk about using oils after they put most of the paint on with acrylics, using the oils for things like the washing and for the final touches. But go you for diving right into the deep end.
A little detail. Check the Rune stone video on Twitch from James Wappel on his Wappelicious channel. His make up sponge technique is the greatest. He has a great suggestion on a starter kit.
Vince Venturella and James Wappel are two names I'd recommend for looking into painting miniatures with oil paints. Thanks for sticking through with it, even though the initial go around was nowhere near what you were expecting! ^_^
oh man. I felt it when you tested out painting oil straight on. I have never had a good experience with that. A week of dry time? No thanks! Your second attempt was great and really shows the (accessible) strength of oils: Enhancing underlying acrylic colours.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial www.jerrysartarama.com/lukas-berlin-water-mixable-oil-colors?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0caCBhCIARIsAGAfuMzheQe5yvZFHY8D2bHBN8w1BqZ6Ykvc0bj1WaPKA4E2eyaO2OG4AgMaAu1rEALw_wcB Absolutely nuts, and I also did a double take at first. But yeah. Somehow they invented water soluble oil paints.
@@zerakielvmark The "white spirit" / "low odour" thinners you get from art or hobby suppliers are a mixture of similar hydrocarbons that behave like turpentine, but are not the identical to traditional turpentine, and are not in the same health risk categories as turpentine. While I probably only know enough to get me into trouble, and am far from an expert, I do not believe they should be a huge cause for concern unless you are using them a great deal in a very poorly ventilated space. On the other hand, turpentine comes from trees, while white spirit is a petroleum product. So, regardless of the personal health risks, I do wonder about their environmental risks (says someone who has shelves full of unassembled, unpainted plastic models that are all petroleum products).
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Water souluble oils basically have soap in them to make oil and water mix. They aren't as "Creamy" as normal oil paints, but they are fully compatible with both regular oils and water based paints like watercolor and gouache. Don't know about acrylic. They also tend to cure a bit faster than normal oil paints as well, and cleanup is far easier.
I watched hours of painting tutorials before I started painting my 40k army, and no amount of instructional videos could compare to the knowledge I gained from a single brush stroke. Nice to see that rule applies to even pros, such as yourself.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 What does this have to do with anything I said? I'm sorry if you misunderstood, but I never said Bob Ross invented the names of these paints, I'm just saying that the names remind me of him.
@@SneakingMOUSE - Bob Ross is not well known in the UK. Heard of him mainly through parodies on youtube. So, those traditional paint names have no such connotations for me. What they do have however is a link to the past since the same paint names have been used for centuries. There is that clearer? As an aside I added a dig at Citadel and their crazy proprietary names. Not only are those names unhelpful, in that words like Snorgle Grumple don’t mean anything, but they actually are a hindrance in that they divert people from learning those traditional colour names which are deeply entwined in art history. So, no they don’t remind me of Bob Ross, they remind me of school art lessons and painting when I was a kid, and also about classic painters like Rembrandt who ground their own oil paints, using a pestle and mortar and mixed in some linseed oil.
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First mistake was prolly buying studio paints (for students and studies, where you spent paint without care) instead of artist line. studio paints has less pigment in them, a bit more oil, and generally better to work impasto, not the qualities you would like for painting minis.
oh, also, white spirit, thinner for your alcohol based paints and oils would be useless to strip water based acrylic paints/inks
I highly recommend that you check out "James Wappel" here on UA-cam. He got videos where he discuss basics, pros/cons, techniques etc while you get to watch him (mostly real time) paint minis with oils. The videos are long but worth it.
dood... Gamblin 1980 oil paints... whole set 37ml tubes... Gamsol... all at Michaels, use a coupon... dont give up... do base coat in acrylics then accent over with oils (and typed just as you got to that part on the vid) lol
Abteilung 502 paints dry much faster than artist oils. They are formulated specifically for models. Less oils in the tube but still have a longer working time than acrylics for blending and filtering. It's an alternative if you're interested in researching them.
Also putting your artist oils on cardboard and letting it sit for awhile before using them will help soak the oils out of the paint. Modelers recommend this when using artist oils. You'll be amazed at the amount of oil that will soak into the cardboard.
@@KrullMaestaren this
Nice tree broski. Those tubes of paint will be in your family for many generations.
Just paint bravely, amirite? ;)
😂
In a hundred years, people will still speak in hushed whispers about the oil-painted ent that is still drying
You're not that wrong. We know that some of the Renaissance oil paintings are still wet at the very deepest layers. They were painted so thick that the base layers are pretty much never going to dry. #arthistorian
Funny because it's true. But the student grade Wintons are a bit faster drying.
Yeah I came here to point this out.
Years. It takes literally years for oil to dry on the lowest layer closest to the surface of whatever you painted on. This is extended on surfaces that don't have any airflow coming in from the back. In other words, an oil painting on wood panel will take longer to dry than oil on canvas (which on its back is exposed to the environment). And even canvas has been known to be wet for 80+ years. I can't imagine how long it takes for a surface like styrene or resin.
I misread that for "dying" instead of "drying", still funny :D
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As someone who took a semester of oil painting. One tip i can give is, dawn dish soap is awesome for cleaning the paint! It’ll even get it out of clothes if you’re fast enough!
I paint with oils and acrylics on canvas, and I have some tips that might help!
- As a lot of people are stating, oils take forever (weeks) to dry, especially on a nonabsorbent surface. Great for blending, not so great for something you'll be picking up.
- You can put oils over acrylic- something that'd speed up your process is doing your base coats in acrylic. The acrylic has to be completely dry, and you CAN'T put acrylic over oils because the acrylic will eventually just crack and flake off.
- Liquin is the thinner I use to do washes in oils on canvas. It's got all kinds of health hazards like flammability and skin irritation if you get it on you, but my washes dry within a few hours. I've used linseed oil and solvent free fluid to thin my oils, but liquin is by far my favorite because it dries much more quickly.
What if you seal the oils, can you put acrylic on top of them?
Yeah. Just make sure you let it sit long enough to cure before varnishing. On a canvas painting that can take months, but the curing time depends on a tonne of things, but mostly how thick the paint is and most of the time it's pretty thin when used for mini painting. So if you give it a week before you varnish you should be good to go.
YEEEEAH!!
I came here to mention liquin!
I use so much of it (canvas painting, not minis... YET) and it is a [Crippled] Godsend.
36" diagonal paintings, done in a few days!
@@power_SERG Exactly what Jay said.
Because of this you should store the painting somewhere where dust won't accumulate - and fuse itself- on the painting.
My college prof talked about how it took MONTHS for one of his to dry completely because he used that really thick, globby style of painting that probably has a name that I can't remember.
What I usually use oils for is a gung wash. It works best on larger flatter surfaces with panel lines and areas for the wash to collect. Take un-thinned oil and slap it on thick over a surface. Then take a lint free cloth and wipe it off. It will leave panel lines and other areas with a nice dirty look. Don't use too dark of oil over to light a surface because it can give a coffee stain appearance.
I swapped to using oils exclusively a while back, and it's something that slowly went from 'this is absolute rubbish' to 'this is the best way to paint things'. A large positive is that you can easily find what pigments are in paints, so color mixing is ezpz.
Edit: Add Venetian red and a titanium white to your collection, and you'll have basically anything you'd want to mix basic skin tones (and also the entire palette I used for painting up a ton of goblins).
How different is the techniques from painting traditionally with oils versus painting a mini. From a traditional standpoint, the video was very cringeworthy, lol...though I give him a ton of credit for just jumping into it. I would think for minis, you really have to thin down the oils to a watery consistency to work well with layering and all?
Amen brother
@@mattheweble5550 You don't do layering like you would with acrylics, except if you need to reinforce highlights due to colors getting washed out (and this is only something you'll bother with if you're doing NMM).
You do want to thin the oil paint down more than one would for painting on a canvas, but the trick is more to have very little paint on the brush.
I'll reference something I did recently, as far as process goes, since I've found James Wappel's approach to be generally good for using oils:
Goblin stabba - 0. Prime white, 1. Wash the sucker in a burnt umber/ivory black mix to get the deepest shadows, 2. Wipe off the excess with a sponge so that it only remains in the recesses, 3. Hit the areas with their midtone color (using very little paint on the brush, 4. Hit highlights/areas with color variation with the appropriate tones, blending if necessary (only needed on the cloth areas, where the gradients take up more room), 5. Go back a couple days later to reinforce highlights on the NMM sword and add edge highlights.
@@grady.flanary Ok...so in a sense...it's painting alla prima with really thinned down paints. Do you use any mediums to quicken the curing process on minis?
@@mattheweble5550 I don't bother with it. I'm thinning them down relatively heavily with spirits to begin with (compared to traditional oil painting), so that's making them dry a touch faster. I also like them being semi-workable for longer, since I put NMM on everything, so I like being able to blend the pure-/off-white highlights in slightly, since they get easily muddied if you put them on when doing the rest of it. (Quick edit: I also like them being workable longer so I can adjust blends if I look at the figure the next day or so and think something needs to be touched up, but I just want to use a dry blending brush instead of reactivating the paint/adding more)
Dmitry Feschenko (ua-cam.com/video/mMFMFJQla6Y/v-deo.html) advocates using additives like that, as I recall, but he's also using thicker paint and focused far more on display painting, so the importance of having smooth blends you'd get from using mediums is more present.
I've searched for a channel about black magic and found a good video with a very talented man! 👏👍🌳💚🌱
I smiled heavily. I watched Marcos videos and took a diffrent approach. I painted some models from The Drowned Earth with Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black and White. I put a zenithal prime on and then my satisfaction increased exponetialy :)
I put one color in and pushed the others from the shadows or the edge into it. My minis looking like the characters from "No one left to fight" and i love it.
I love these vids where you just try out new things in a process that is not a perfect designed "how to". This is totally my perspective to go through new subjects. Very nice :)
The fact that oil paints have a long dry time make them ideal for blending. Try using it on a magic orb where the colors go into each other. It's really fun to paint with. I am happy for u it's a extra tool in your skillfull hands.
Good idea to check the materials safety sheets for oil paint colors even if you're familiar with them for water/acrylic paints because some bad stuff is oil soluble and can be super bad if you accidentally breathe or eat it.
Thankfully I’m not a paint eater/brush licker so I don’t have to fight that urge while working with oils.
My medium of choice is Testor oils. They're fairly inexpensive and easy to work with, since they're specifically formulated for plastic models.
You're a kinesthetic learner 😄 Thanks for being so real and informative 😀
You inspired me to start crafting for my DnD group. Got some pillars made, and was up till 2am last night making like 300 bricks for some ruined modular walls. Love the videos man, thanks.
Hello,as always a cool video,with oil paints I have at the beginning
problems with the drying time, but try thinning with lighter fluid, it dries much faster.
greetings from Vienna
Chris
I'm attempting some of the oil wash techniques used on tanks, it didn't start well that I bought a thinner that wasn't for proper oil paints...
my first ever model paint was oils, since i started with revell (my dad likes revell)
Welcome to the world of oils! They are amazing and make blending so nice. There are oil accelerants that you can mix into your paints that take dry times from 24ish hours to 12ish hours.
Mix a little liquin oil painting medium with your oils and they will dry faster. Most quality oil paints have linseed oil in them. Have fun!
This video was a rollercoaster! I highly recommend Gamblin's line of products for future :) W+N is great too tho!
Hey, so, My favorite mini painting streamer Eenie mini on twitch paints quite often w/ oil paint. she's really good at interacting w/ the chat and answers questions about it. She has a bunch of first hand experience. The problem is she just moved so it may be a few weeks until she pops back on streaming. Anyway, thought you might like a resource
I painted a self portrait with a palette knife and oils in 2014, it's still drying.
Just sold me on dipping into oils for washes. Thanks!
Winsor and Newton paints are based on linseed oil. Thus the organic smell.
You are so very brave! Oil paints terrify me 😂 P.S. that moving time lapse shot was lovely 💯
Congratulations, BMC, with your new hobby: To paint solely with earth tones oil paint on canvas :]
This was a great video. It’s fun to see you experimenting with unconventional mediums like this. I wonder if it might be worth checking out water-mixable oil paint. It sounds crazy and I’ve been meaning to try them, but apparently they work very much like normal oils, but without the toxic thinners and if you water them down, they can supposedly dry much more quickly than traditional oils.
You actually pronounced it right! Terra verde means green land!
I like it👍👍
I'm taking bets on when that first ent will be dry ~*~*~
I like the Broccoli man ^^,
Well this was entertaining, the moment you said you were going to paint it entirely using oil paints I was saying no don't do it to my phone 😂 just so you know you can actually come back and use thinner to remove or blend the oil paints days, weeks or years later. Also it wouldn't be useful for this model, but for something with panel lines between armour or similar instead of applying the was all over just dot it (don't paint it) along the panel line and capillary action will draw it along the line for you and will only require minimal clean up where you dabbed the brush on the model.
I'd also advise watching scale model videos such as nightshift, they've been using oil and enamel paints for years and do so much more with them than miniature painters.
Q: Does BMC mess around when trying something out?
A: No
Oils are addictive.
Why do I have a feeling this is not going to end well? Time to hit play.
OK, oil paint on the whole mini, not convinced that is a good thing. The problems I see are drying time, making the paint transparent enough to let the undercoat show, and strength of the hues.
Oil paint as washes, looking really nice. I would like to see your results after some more practice.
set up for life, more like a few life times
Hey Black Magic Craft, What slicer do you use for your resin 3d printer?
I’ve always used chitubox but just tried lychee for the first time last week.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial I'll try that thanks
Artist quality paints made today are not the same as those from the past. Today’s dry a LOT faster.
My daughter paints in oils. It can take multiple days to dry.
I have to get a 3d printer. I'd not be game to try that on a $100 miniature
The varnish to protect the acrylics, whether inks or regular paints, should not be necessary. I'd actually be more worried about the rattlecan primer.
Not gonna lie. The first one at the beginning looked like a broccoli. Ghaa and now I want to eat cooked broccolo.
next to white get also the primary colors magenta, cyan en primary yellow ;)
It can take at least a week to dry
I m gonna test my water soluble oil paints :)
Check James Wappels on twitch or youtube, he s a Bob Ross for miniature painting with oils :)
No, I’m not laughing I was just thinking that even if they are odourless you should have paint in a well ventilated place, but apart from that oil paints are way better than acrylics. You should have bought red, yellow, white black and blue, so you will be able to mix any colour you want
This man went and bought enough oil paint for various lifetimes, 🤣
Well the Ent will think it's it's fast drying paint.
Totally not to poop on the idea of oil paints for washes, but what is the point or benefit of using oils? I’ve used oil paints in a fine art mode and eventually abandoned them because of the pain in the ass maintenance requirements (slow drying time, solvents for thinner, pain to clean up, etc.) I’ve never used oil paints on minis, and I’m just going “why would you do that to yourself...?” Anyways, love all your work. Make a new video when the first one dries!
If you have tons of hours to learn enamel and oil painting on miniatures, check the Zatcaskagoon Miniatures channel, they are the best in the game
Btw nice vid as always
I agree ,him and Marco do really nice work with oils.
@@JamesSmith-co1kt so true ! Marco is doing great job with vibrant color schemes, Zatcaskagoon Miniatures is my fav, just because he goes for the grimdark side of the force haha
Yeah washes are where it's at.
As frightening as it is to disagree here, Oil paint does have a shelf life and most people will throw out much of those large tubes. Absolutely there is a huge difference in cheap and quality oil paint but there is middle ground that is perfectly fine to experiment with. Middle quality paint in smaller tube goes for $3 a tube and even cheaper in small sets. More than good enough to decide if oil painting is for you. There are water mixable oil paints and odorless thinners for regular oils. There are various products to thin oil paints with that have different effects including vastly speeding up drying time. Over working oil paints makes mud. If mud is your goal then that is a benefit. If you are not making mud resist the temptation to over work the paint. Less is better. . .
Renoir and Cézanne think they're so cool with their slow-drying oil paints, but I don't see them putting out a video every week
Death makes you lazy.
still waiting for their projects to dry I expect!
"So, I don't know where to start." Marco Frisoni, here on youtube; is where you start. Edit: and there he is, mentioned at the end of your video. Lol
Totally agree. Marco is quality. The Grimdark Compendium also shows some great oil techniques.
Same thoughts for me! I was already typing the comment when he mentioned him.
Marco provides such quality tutorials for advanced painters and beginners alike.
Marco is good but your oil paint god is James Wappel
My wife just asked why I was watching a guy playing with broccoli. I can't unsee it now.
I thought the same thing. A broccoli ent.
@@m_d1905 He goes by the name Brent.
@@MonkeyJedi99 from Goobertown
Is your wife single by any chance?
@@CapitalNick Nah, she's married to some ugly dude
BMC - I'm just gonna wait for this to dry overnight.
Me - *Dies laughing*
Yeah...I chuckled at that, lol.
He checked every 15 minutes. Lol. He's too much.
May take longer than that
@@stinkyham9050 will.not dry for 3 fays
ive had canvas dry for months hahaah
When I read the title I was like “oh god, this is gonna go well...”
Check James Wappel's channel and his Twitch - the struggle when transitioning to oil colours is normal but once you understand how to layer the paints and to work with thinner it's a whole new world.
This is the way to go. Wappel is THE MASTER on oil paints with miniatures.
I agree. If you're really interested check him out, and he is always willing to help if you have questions about anything. Tons of videos from start to finish on using paints.
Somewhere the hairs on the back of James Wappel's neck just stood up for no reason.
Shout out to Marco Frisoni, he changed my painting life
Heeeelloooo guuuyys!
Crafters brain: Get the larger one, its cheaper and you'll use it for other crafts
Crafter: Naw, I should just get enough to test the product out first
Crafters brain: Ummmm did I stutter?
When anything remotely useful is on sale. Better buy it while it is cheaper to save money. One year later find it in the bottom of your storage box.
Be careful with owning too much oil... Merica likes that stuff alot
Did someone say oil...😏
You know it takes 14 days to dry..lol
Fun fact: Regarding the smell of grass to the oil paints, the oil medium in many oil paints - linseed oil - is as the name implies extracted from flax seeds and is edible. The pigments on the other hand...
Yeah, don't eat lead white. It's made from... lead. And there's a lot made from other heavy metals and other nasty things.
Pigment is also why oil is so expensive. Acrylic paint uses little plastic beads to make up the pigment. Oil generally uses raw materials (although there are synthetic pigments, like aquamarine blue). During the Renaissance, artists had to create pigment from titanium, dirt, coal, beetle shells, etc. which is where a lot of names for colors comes from. It's why artists worked almost exclusively on commission from the Church, nobility, or other rich patrons like the Medici banking family in Italy.
They literally had to mine colors, such as cobalt, in places like the Congo, then ship it to the Netherlands/Italy/France/Britain. What's really interesting is seeing the way artists would "cheat" in order to get more out of their paints. For instance, using something like Indigo Blue to cover large areas, then highlight with Cobalt Blue to trick the eye into thinking the entire thing was Cobalt.
@@jayward8943 is that why my hair fell out! wow I never knew that eating paint was bad for you. the more you know
@@nekrataali they don't use plastic beads as pigment lmao, unless you're talking about cutting pigments
Just in case no one has said also check out James Wappel. I was just as scared to try oils but they are sooooooo much fun when you understand what you need to do as its a totally different method of painting.
100% this. James is the man when talking about painting with oils.
He's also insanely helpful over on Twitch when he's on!
He's THE guy
There's a Bob Ross, oil painting, and happy little trees joke in here somewhere....
Probably also something with "smells like grass" and trees
Full bodied oil paints take literally months to fully cure. You can touch the surface after several days, but it's not really set for a very long time. Your solution for starting with acrylics and then oil washing over is perfect. Also, usually acrylic is immune to oil thinners so a clear coat between layers isn't needed. Test that, thought, I'm not sure it holds for all different kinds of thinners.
I use oils frequently and I've found the only thing you really need to be mindful of with using them on acrylics is washes and thin paints like contrast paints. Those can come off if they're in a very thin layer or if they haven't dried fully, but other than that you can use them together without a whole lot of trouble.
I think the logic behind clear coating before oil washes is just to protect against physically rubbing the acrylic away when you dab it with your cotton bud or whatever. It certainly doesn't thin acrylic. I think it's mostly a belt and braces approach.
@@kallisto9166 yeah that makes sense. I HAVE had mineral spirits rub off my primer until it got down to bare plastic, but i was really scrubbing.
I will say however that I do varnish oils before putting acrylics on them. I've had some weird spotting happen before, especially with washes.
You can paint entirely with oils, correctly thinned they dry overnight. They're not just for washes, they're incredible in the their own right.
Varnishes are tricky... Supposedly, you protect the acrylic with them, but they often get crackled or gunky when in contact with thinners... I've learned to avoid them, except at the very end of the process. If you stay away from cotton and those damn fibers and use a brush dumped in turpentine instead, you'll have much more control.
Oils can be great fun and is a challenge worth trying out. So glad to see you branching out and trying new things! I find that a good gloss varnish before adding the wash makes all the difference, and then this again to fix before adding another layer.
They also do thinners/ mineral oil they say is odorless, there's still a slight smell but not what you're used to.
I always find the odorless ones give me the worst headaches, even when I use precautions. I try to stay away from thinners as much as possible.
For anyone looking to watch more oil painting stuff James Wappel does magical things with them and makes it looks effortless!
When are you going to paint your happy little trees? Beat the devil out of your paintbrush?
He was a master of oil on oil painting, after all . . . .
An ent was such a fitting test piece.
This video pretty much shows why I am always amazed by anyone who attempts to use oils to paint their minis. The amount of patience involved is incredible.
Properly thinned they dry overnight. My first oil painted minis took about three weeks to dry till I got the consistency correct.
You can speed up the drying time with a light box, UV speeds up oils drying time. Markus has a video
Windsor & Newton makes a set of really nice "water mixable" oils. They behave like oils, but you can clean up/ thin with soap and water. They're a great choice if you're working in an enclosed space and/or don't want to use solvents.
I've been using those and I'm becoming a bit skeptical of them. Had some great results, but also some problems. One major thing is the fact that when you thin with water instead of alcohol you lose the flow that seems to be one of the things that make oil washes really great. I've also had some weird interactions with other colors, especially inks, but that might be due to not having enough varnish between layers. Actually planning to get some regular oils for next time I'm painting to compare, but haven't done it yet.
@@nightdew4934 Have you tried them with spirits instead of water? I know the cool feature of them is the water soluble aspect but I think they work like normal oil paints of you use spirits
@@BurntWeeny435 That's a good idea. I've been on somewhat of a break from miniature painting, but I'll try that once I get back to it. Smaller tubes of oil paint are pretty cheap though, so I'll probably get at least a black or something to compare with.
Watching this and hearing that you'll try entirely using oils... I can see where this will go. Haven't watched much yet, but I am predicting that your idea of oil paint then oil wash will not work, as the basecoat will take forever to dry. Always basecoat with acrylics, then use oils for either washes or blends, in my opinion. Also, I primarily use thick paint, as I find it easier to manipulate, but that is opinion, and not really guidance.
Way better, I advise you to check James Wappel. He is the best reference for painting with oils. Great video.
I'm only halfway through the video so you've probably already figured this out, but I want to pass this along in case it can be of help.
(not commenting from my art channel whoops) I paint model horses in oils, and with model horses you have to have a super flat, non-textured end surface or it won't sell as well as it could. I've figured out in my own trial and error, that oils are the opposite of acrylics.
Use a drying agent to speed up the drying process (I use cobalt but there are others) and don't overdo it or you could get cracking from the oils drying too quickly. (and use thin layers, they'll dry to a workable layer-over state overnight)
White and black stay wet a lot longer than other pigments, so plan for that when using them.
Use mineral spirits to clean your brush in-between layers if you don't want brush textures; don't thin your paint
Use the paint straight out of the tube and put it on an absorbent palette like cardboard to absorb excess oil. add a drop of drier and mix it in, and then take a very small amount on your brush, and dry-brush onto the model. Oils spread, so you're able to work it in a dry-brush way a LOT more than with acrylics
Other than that, play around with different soft brushes (I use acrylic-intended brushes for oil painting) and shapes, and try different stroke techniques to get different effects. Ever since figuring out how to use oils to paint models, I really only use my airbrush for base coats anymore :D
Keep up the great content!!
I LOVE Marco’s videos! He does such a good job explaining how to use other mediums for miniature painting. I was so excited to hear you give him a shout out! He needs more love! I’m also quite enjoying your new inspirational experiments! Keep up the awesomeness!
Please do a video comparison of your home-made wash VS oil wash VS manufactured washes
Holy crap you those tubes will last you forever! Also definitely Check out James Wappel’s videos on oil painting miniatures.
Me: "Cool new BMC video! It's not even Thursday yet!"
10 seconds later: ...wait.
I haven’t painted with oil paint in like 12 years. I was like 😈 when you talked about letting the first one dry lol
4 year degree from expensive art school talking: (explained in mini painting terms) First, paint thinner (turpentine) is used to clean your brush, not as the paint medium (what you thin the paints with). With Acrylic water is your cleaner and your medium. For this, you want to be using a fast drying oil medium like Liquin to get your paint to the consistency you want (aka thin). Then use the turp rinse your brush. The only real harmful chemical to breath in is the terp. Get a small Silicoil Brush cleaning jar. Fill it to the coil (half full-ish) and it will last you for a real long time. After your done for the session wash out your brush with some brush soap. Also, don't mix your oil painting brushes with your acrylic brushes. Once they are used for oil, I wouldn't use them for acrylic again. Turp residue will breakdown the paint.
Liquin will dry in less than 24 hours, BTW.
Experimentation, experimentation, experimentation. Trial and Error, this is what I love about the hobby. Again and again trying new things is always fun and challenging at times with results to learn from and appreciate.
I repainted my 40k starter set half a dozen times before getting more models later down the line. Wasted so much on testors paint.
@@antigrav6004 That's something I should start doing, just have one dedicated model for testing.
Sometimes rushing headlong into things like that is fruitful and produces unexpected results. Also can be quite fun!
Don't bash yourself for not studying oils beforehand - we all do that from time to time... and begin checking the manuals only after breaking our new toys 😉
Your first treant should fully dry in about a month (but the outer layers must cure quicker and allow for finishing touches) and will be rocking the bookshelf along with his friend.
Thank you for this unusual episode, personally I'm sure going to dig out my old oil paints and see if I can make washes out of them!
Dude! James Wappel’s videos are your friend. He’s the god of oil on minis. Watch him!
I always appreciate your “ride the learning curvewith me” videos. Makes me feel less intimidated by new techniques!!
Ninjon also has some videos where he explains oil paints/washes for beginners.
I have a mini I painted with oils more than 2 months ago. Still waiting for it, to dry. :D After that project I bought a bottle of accelerator.
Gotta say the reason I enjoy your videos so much is your willingness to explore new things without fear of making mistakes. Gives me the bravery to try new things and just jump in! Very cool project!
First try was LOL.
But seriously: For oil painting you NEED to do some research first. Besides Mr.Frisoni amazing videos, there are others way more detailed explaining how to do GORGEOUS blends EASILY, using oils over acrylic paint.
And also: Abteilung 502 man, really.
In the end, you will end up trying NMM with EASE, using oil blending methods. Try it!
Buy some Abteilung 502 oil paints. They are made for miniatures. They are made with less linseed oil. Winsor Newton paints have a ton on linseed oil therefore take a long time to dry. Then you could go back and try the same way you were first painting. A tree would not showcase their strengths though. The washes as you found out would be great. The oil paint would give you blends with very little effort. Get the Abteilung 502 skin set and paint a bust. That is the next level. Undercoat in acrylic NO NEED TO CLEAR COAT...waste of time.
Watch one video by James Wappel......will answer every question and correct your "mistakes".
As soon as I heard you talking about drying times I knew disaster was imminent. My wife does oil paintings on canvas and she talks about it taking months to dry. She puts on thicker coats but yeah, it takes a while. A lot of the miniature painters I watch talk about using oils after they put most of the paint on with acrylics, using the oils for things like the washing and for the final touches. But go you for diving right into the deep end.
A little detail. Check the Rune stone video on Twitch from James Wappel on his Wappelicious channel. His make up sponge technique is the greatest. He has a great suggestion on a starter kit.
Windsor & Newton makes a product called Liquin. Mix it with your oil paint and it will dry overnight at the latest.
Vince Venturella and James Wappel are two names I'd recommend for looking into painting miniatures with oil paints.
Thanks for sticking through with it, even though the initial go around was nowhere near what you were expecting! ^_^
oil paints ... i always start with dark then lighten with light colors ... ya oil is opposite of airbrush :)
oh man. I felt it when you tested out painting oil straight on. I have never had a good experience with that. A week of dry time? No thanks!
Your second attempt was great and really shows the (accessible) strength of oils: Enhancing underlying acrylic colours.
I am seriously looking at some water soluble oils. Yes, apparently they exist! Isn't that CRAZY?
What.....what?
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial www.jerrysartarama.com/lukas-berlin-water-mixable-oil-colors?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0caCBhCIARIsAGAfuMzheQe5yvZFHY8D2bHBN8w1BqZ6Ykvc0bj1WaPKA4E2eyaO2OG4AgMaAu1rEALw_wcB
Absolutely nuts, and I also did a double take at first. But yeah. Somehow they invented water soluble oil paints.
It's Def worth looking into! Much safer for your health since you don't need turpentine.
@@zerakielvmark The "white spirit" / "low odour" thinners you get from art or hobby suppliers are a mixture of similar hydrocarbons that behave like turpentine, but are not the identical to traditional turpentine, and are not in the same health risk categories as turpentine. While I probably only know enough to get me into trouble, and am far from an expert, I do not believe they should be a huge cause for concern unless you are using them a great deal in a very poorly ventilated space.
On the other hand, turpentine comes from trees, while white spirit is a petroleum product. So, regardless of the personal health risks, I do wonder about their environmental risks (says someone who has shelves full of unassembled, unpainted plastic models that are all petroleum products).
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Water souluble oils basically have soap in them to make oil and water mix. They aren't as "Creamy" as normal oil paints, but they are fully compatible with both regular oils and water based paints like watercolor and gouache. Don't know about acrylic.
They also tend to cure a bit faster than normal oil paints as well, and cleanup is far easier.
I watched hours of painting tutorials before I started painting my 40k army, and no amount of instructional videos could compare to the knowledge I gained from a single brush stroke. Nice to see that rule applies to even pros, such as yourself.
There are modified oil paints that are soluble in water. Just throwing that out there.
Is it just me or do other people immediately think of Bob Ross when they hear colors like "yellow ochre"?
Titanium wuhite and Cadmium brown (think it was brown). Love watching Bob Ross.
Edit: maybe that was red not brown?
Those names have been used literally for centuries. Just shows you the amazing power of Citadel with all their b.s. paint names.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 What does this have to do with anything I said? I'm sorry if you misunderstood, but I never said Bob Ross invented the names of these paints, I'm just saying that the names remind me of him.
@@SneakingMOUSE - Bob Ross is not well known in the UK. Heard of him mainly through parodies on youtube. So, those traditional paint names have no such connotations for me. What they do have however is a link to the past since the same paint names have been used for centuries. There is that clearer?
As an aside I added a dig at Citadel and their crazy proprietary names. Not only are those names unhelpful, in that words like Snorgle Grumple don’t mean anything, but they actually are a hindrance in that they divert people from learning those traditional colour names which are deeply entwined in art history.
So, no they don’t remind me of Bob Ross, they remind me of school art lessons and painting when I was a kid, and also about classic painters like Rembrandt who ground their own oil paints, using a pestle and mortar and mixed in some linseed oil.