FIRST OIL CHANGE ON THE BUDGET BUILT MOTOR!
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2022
- FIRST OIL CHANGE ON THE BUDGET BUILT MOTOR!
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A bit of fine glitter in the first oil change after a rebuild is quite common.
Always scary checking a filter after a rebuild!
man everything about this has been scary lol
It’s better not to know
And Woody enters the room........
@@michaelshannon4138 Actually, it's better to know, then you can solve a small problem before it becomes a major. Just my thoughts on it though
Naaaa if you don’t know there is a problem is there really a problem???
This is the relationship with N54. Always keeps your heart in check!! 😂. Nice work brother.
loving these videos brother!!!! Planning on going single on my E90 n54
Based on the description sounds like bits of assembly lubricant type material or arp fastener lube
*edit* I’ve just gotten to the point where you basically said exactly what I was thinking lol
Man the upload speeds are remarkable. Keep up the good work man !
How much glitter should be in my fresh rebuilt motor.....
All of it..😂
I saw a video a while ago (I can't recall exactly what it was) but I do distinctly remember they had the same little gunky type stuff in their engine too. It would just squish to paste when touched just like this. They thought it was possibly gasket maker and/or the assembly lube as well.
Great stuff N54 👏
I had for the first 3 oil changes (100ks, 1000ks, 5000ks) after a rebuild on my N14 JCW motor quite a bit of metal, otherwise no issues and it's been running on 22lb of boost no problems for years now. Running 10w30 diesel oil for the extra zinc. It has seen redline every time it is driven Haha
Please be careful using 10w-60 in these engines, having extra clearance bearings is a plus but if you don’t let the oil warm up properly it could cost you your motor due to being too thick at low temps and can actually clog vital parts of your motor. Also check with your piston manufacturer as well, the pistons I’ll be going with call for 0W-40 oil.
It's against the grain for sure. The Castrol Supercar 10w60, is a different oil to the Castrol TWS 10w60 (this oil is like 20 years old) which had all the S65/S85 bearing problems and caused a lot of the fear with thick oil. I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30/5w40 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me. But each to thier own. All that matters with the weight of the oil is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so. Higher oil pressure should help protect the bearings, to a point of-course.
I thought the right oil for n54 was 5w-30 or 5w-40?
@@Vikturus22 more then likely but when your pushing all this power you need thicker oil for your motor and especially turbos.
Gliter is conrod or main bearings if it presents you might want to drop the pan and check the Bearing clearance with plastic Guage.. also change the o ring on the center cartridge for the oil drain hole
a had similar situation with n54 , i had alum flakes , i tought i was the rod bearing , i checked rod bearing and they were ok, then i cheked oil pump it was ok, then i ckeked main bering, they were ok, then i cheked camshaft lege it was ok , and i dont understand why i found flakes, but on second bmw n54 i had essue with engine serpantin belt it broke and came inside the engine in got stuck in oil pump filter and then i cheked oil pump and it had a lot of scratches inside, ofcourse i flackes in the oil, i changed rod bering and oil pump.
Also check the compression in the cylinders, fingers crossed there all equally the same 🤞
I'm picking that silvery stuff in the filter is a protective coating on the pistons, might pay to ask AMP44 if they coat them in anything before they ship them? Other than that, the oil appeared fine to me (though better to see with the naked eye rather than via a camera, so I'm going off the colour). Good to see you cut the filter apart, easiest way to check it thoroughly. And yes, always expect blackness in the filter on initial startup with a freshly assembled motor, that's the assembly lube washing off and collecting in the filter.
Not sure where you source your filters from, I use Mann filters, get them from Run Auto Parts (I believe they are in Queensland?) and they are very well priced, never had a problem before (E53 diesel, E34 M20, E92 335i running them so far).
And to be honest, I've tried Castrol Edge in mine, not good, switched to Magnatec and way less oil consumption and top end seems cleaner. 10W60 seems a bit heavy for you though, I would've thought a 5W50 would've been better. But each to their own when it comes to oils. Penrite and Nulon believe it or not are also quite good in these motors.
Other than that, great job on the build, sort the niggly little oil leaks and issues, run it for another couple of 100ks then full send, see what happens.
I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30 Catrol Edge/5w40 Penrite HPR5 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me. But each to thier own. My understanding is all that matters with the weight of the oil is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so.
Hi. I'm glad possibly found what was wrong . Put a cheap oil for flushing a engine. Then a proper oil. You may have a lot of dirt inside.
Remember that oil weight is directly proportional to bearing clearances. High weight oil with tighter bearing clearances = excessive oil pressure. The second number is the viscosity @ 100c. Usually on a freshly built motor you dont want to run a thicker oil unless you are getting the oil very hot. So keep that in mind.
I think it's going to get spicy in OZ!! 😅
n54 runs hotter inherently. 120C. I feel like 5w40 or 5w30 is perfect for the car.
I have mentioned it a few times, but I fitted xtra clearance bearings. I run all our high power N54s on this, apart from the og 17t engine that was on the recommend 5w30 and it had the worst bearings.
@@ZeroTo60Tube what about the main bearing ? Are they extra clerance too ? And what's the spec on the clerance
@@FriendlyIntentions No but they have done 150-160,000ks. Again 10w60 in ohhrlys unopened motor is sweet and it looked better than the motor run on 5w30. Have you had the chance to compare the oils side by side and see how bearing wear is effected at the 700hp ish mark? Can you explain it a little better as to why the 10w60 is an issue. Most people say it is, but thats because they have read it's bad. Not many people can explain why.
Been meaning to ask do you not worry about walnut blasting/carbon build up? Did see you do it while head was off
Hopefully nothing to worry about with the stuff in the oil filter. Have you compression tested it yet?
That debre in the filter is coating material from bearings
Hello mate !! Awesome videos as always, what oil do you suggest for a n54 335 07 with 100k miles ? Hot climate , 5w40 will be better than 5w30 and what brands are good ? Thanks
Castol 10w60. All day.
I purchased a while ago a Mexico-made MANN Filter Copy? it had a wax-like coating it worked okay But then I bought again a MANN filter this time made in Germany it was wax-free and the filter material was more like a cotton t-shirt vs cardboard wax-like paper that seems restrictive with oil flow IMO also I over tighten the oil filter and it was making bad suction noises I retighten the next day to spec the noise stopped 👍
Haha this was awesome to watch it reminded me of my recent horror story with my car where I thought I had chunks of metal at the bottom of my drained oil, it turned out to be tiny bits of sand and stone that was stuck on the bottom cover of the car as the Z4 has a carpeted one, while draining the oil I kept bumping and knocking it. None of the material was ferrous so it baffled me! I kept changing oil and checking the filter for metal, by the time I got to the 5th oil change in around 2 weeks I had realized what had happened. I put an empty bucket under the car and knocked the under tray and bam it was full of glittery sand ( basically tiny pieces of quarts etc that look like metal when submerged in oil). I thought my bearings were shot or cam ledgers so I also removed the vanos filter to check for metal but everything was always clean. FML!
Also every time I removed my oil cap the oil was clean and glitter free but then on the right side it looked like microscopic glitter running down just like what I just saw in your video! That made me panic too, till I setup a camera there and let it film for a good 10 mins and then saw it was tiny microscopic bubbles and if left for long enough they all disappear due to popping. I brought a friend over with a E92 335i and removed his oil filter cap and saw the same thing. Stress inducing this shit!
Your car would have loved a bunch of new oil in a row :)
Assembly lube in the filter?
Assembly lube in the filter for sure, oil looked ok to me but if it stays like that then get a bit concerned.. with the nearing clearances you had by the plasti guage I'd probably wanna run like a 15w50 or even a 15w 40 at lowest the 60w may be a bit thick for it, its a fresh engine now and the bearing clearances determin the oil viscosity you need to use to keep adequate oil pressure etc etc
Well my clearance was on the large side of "in spec". I went with the extra clearance ACL mainly with running the thicker oil in mind. I really need to get an oil pressure guage on it and see what the oil pressure is doing.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah that would be a good idea im sure it's fine tho if it wasn't there would be alot more metal in that oil and filter
Those filter looks like the original MANN filter, reason I dont like using those filters is they have teflon or paperish seal on the inside of the filter to seal off to that center cage or cartridge, so oil can bypass filter because not really a perfect seal. I recommend and I've been running on all BMWs for years now, MAHLE oil filters, they have rubber seal to seal to that inner cartridge so no chances of oil bypassing filter and they hold up great! Made in Austria, they are also a BMW OE supplier. MAHLE part # OX387D. Basically goes for the whole lineup that uses that Oil filter housing. N51-N55 and S55.
This isn't a Mann, but it's a pretty good copy of it. Wouldn't be surprised if its made in the same place.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yea thats why I was saying looks like a Mann filter. Just didn't see the markings on it tho. Some of the china ones I've seen collapse inside the housing. Why its important to have that cage there. Fram, WIX and couple others I've pulled out in pieces what looked like a sock stuffed into housing lol but thats also due to the fact some people don't service their cars. Or use china cheap parts and follow dealer recommended 10k miles oil intervals.
Man never seen oil as clean as that drains out of a N54!
I wonder what compression test results you would get cause it seems not much blowby there, unlike other n54s
I’d take that as a win! What ur possibly seeing in the filter is parts of the old filter and possibly crap from the engine rebuild, a little bit of glitter is normal for the first few changes as everything beds in, also have you changed the oil cooler thermostat with a BMS one? As could be that making a noise inside the filter housing! Otherwise we’ll done! You’ll find out properly when you start putting load on the engine!
Havent changed the thermostat. It was that oring it seems. However i wondering how long till this one starts doing it, but on first start that noise has gone.
@@ZeroTo60Tube mosselman do a good thermostat adapter plate
Metal - now that you have got down to the brass tacks, this engine could be the new gold standard for 0-60 and will endure many, many lead footed launches and become the star of this silver screen. An iron fist in a velvet glove. 👍
uses maan filters best oem come with rings
Let me know what you figure out with the ultrasonic sound! I am getting the same issue but mine started after the port injection and sheet metal intake install! I have no vacuum leaks and it’s odd
It was that seal in the filter housing, after starting it back up she's quiet now.
I did my n51 oil pan gasket and found similar aluminum like stuff in the filter. My guess is thread sealant on the last oil pan bolts which pushed into engine by new bolt. Just a theory.
That's what I was thinking. Even looked like little threads. I think you are right
Very possibly. I did reuse pretty much every bolt in the motor too. (Apart from head bolts and cam bolts)
very glad nothing major was wrong!
That’s normal after a rebuild it’s bedding in long as it’s not big chunks it’s soft almost paste!
Ok, So ever since I added a oil cooler to my 2008 335xi I have had a droning sound that changes with RPM. At 1st I thought something was rubbing, then I thought it was just the sound of oil flowing through the cooler. Obviously factory setup's don't do this. Maybe I too have a loose gap in the oil filter housing at the small o-ring? I had purchased and installed a used housing (with cooler line hook-ups) off eBay when I added the aftermarket cooler.
Can't wait to see if your nose is gone. Thanks Man. Cheers
This is the only car we have thats done it. However this oil filter housing was on the original very abused and neglected engine. You can pull the basket out of the coil filter cap and check that oring fitment quite easy.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Agreed. I just changed my oil but might pull the filter out and check it. I have an aluminum cap btw. Thanks Brother
@@tazwinsulose Let me know how it goes please. Its not a URO part is it?
That is completly normal. I believe it to be the aluminium coming from the threads on the filter cap. Every time you remove the gap the glitter flows from the threads.
Use MANN filters if u can get them.
Hence the change oil after first start up 🤨 you’ve been lucky so far🤣
oil wise Id of gone with a 5w60 or 0w60 but you live in a hot climate so 10w60 is 🤷🏻♂️ but people have run it in N54
I made the mistake to install the oil squirtes wrong... 4 of them shot away and were in the oilpan. Had aluminium all over the oil Filter but decided to just replace the squirters and fill it up with oil again, so far so good :D Still pushing 600hp and 820nm :P
Ohhh man
Mama I sure wish I could get some Penrite 5w50 y'all get real sun oils down yonder
I'm not a fan of the Castrol 10W60. BMW turned their back on Castrol since the bearing problems at the V10 and V8 engines. Castrol knew the specs of these engines. But maybe they were both wrong. BMW for the bearings Quality and Castrol did not meet the bearing specs🤔🤷♂️. Btw you should only use the The Mann HU 816X filter. Like the Alpina B7 has his specific Mann oil filter. Good luck. Dutch regards Nico
I think the main problem was most drivers without mechanical sympathy would rev the motor out long before the 10w60 could ever warm up to get to the lower viscosity those engines need to run correctly
It's against the grain for sure. The Castrol Supercar 10w60, is a different oil to the Castrol TWS 10w60 (this oil is like 20 years old) which had all the S65/S85 bearing problems. I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30/5w40 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me. But each to thier own. All that matters with the weight of the oil is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Okay. Great to know. Maybe it's also climate-related. In Europe the N57 diesel engine is a notorious one. I heard in Australia it's kinda bulletproof. So the recommended oil temperature is a "problem" in Europe. I have to drive my almost stock 335i for 20 minutes to get my 90 degrees(C) in the oil. Dutch regards, Nico.
5w-50, is the highest you should be using. After rebuilding a engine you should’ve used non synthetic oil 0w-20 or break in oil for the first start up, then do the first oil change using synthetic 5w-40 motor oil after 250-500 miles
hahaha, ahh man, imagine doing everything by the book. However regarding the oil. It's against the grain for sure, especially in colder climates. I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 supercar and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30/5w40 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me. But each to their own. All that matters with the weight of the oil is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so. Most manufacturers are only using the thinner oil to help with efficiency. Well that and a stock motor is now built with fair good tolerances and at stock power levels the thiner oil is fine. There are thinner race oils i would use over the 10w60, but 10w60 does what we need for a retail priced product. To get a similar level of protection from a proper race oil would cost significantly more.
arp lube or piston coating if you pistons skirts were coated
THEY WERE
@@ZeroTo60Tube i just had that same issue on my car with manley pistons,the coating was coming off and clogging the oil pickup tube,you need to keep checking you oil filter often,i think the loose tolerances cause slap and scrape the coating off or bad prep job was done on the piston also e85 doesnt help as its very corrosive.now im installing new uncoated pistons
I’m using 0w-40 on a freshly built LT1 after GM started using 0w-40 on the 2022 LTs
All OEs seem to have moved to thinner oils, while it feels good to follow suit you have to remember the thinner the oil, the easier the motors will meet emissions targets. OE manufacturers are not worried about the motor lasting 10+years. Or worried about what the motors go through when modified. Just another consideration when increasing the power levels. The OE oil was designed for a stock motor to get through the warranty period and meet emissions.
@@ZeroTo60Tube noted thats what I thought also I’ll switch oil next oil change to see if theres any difference
Getting good at the clickbait thumbnails
Thanks man, i'm trying to be the youtuber twat......
what brand of oil filter are you using ?
This particular one is Transgold. However they will be rebranding someone else's. Not sure on the true origin.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I recommend Mann oil filters, if you can get them in Aus. I think they are the best quality, along with the correct o-rings in the box. Never had any issues.
Andrew 180 grams of hychill minus 30 thats what my e92 335i uses and its cold cheers glenn
Considering regulations in QLD, i might not do the AC video. But i know so many people using hychil. I couldnt believe it when i found out anyone can buy it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube and it is 100% legal go figure
that oil looks amazing tbh lol. your bearings and rings set themselves and clearanced themselves upon first few miiles of driving under load so you will always see alittle glitter on first change.,
IF YOUR OIL FILTER HOUSING IS FUCKED DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR, the pressure is not right, even if its reading correct from the sensors!!!! if theres any blowby on the seals in the ooil filter housing, youll start throwing ghost vanos codes. lol beware.
The scariest of moments, as other have said its a fresh rebuilt so a bit of glitter is expected, silicon also ends up looking like alloy when in oil for w/e reason.
Also just noticed your question in the other comment, Im from Chile, fellow southern hemisphere
Ahhhh Chile? What is the car scene like there?
@@ZeroTo60Tube very damn weird lol
slammed cars are still a thing just like the "fast and furious" wanna be (biggest scene by far locally)
drag is all the cry but since there's pretty close to no events or them being waaay too expensive people take certain locations to go drag and not bother people, same applies but with less people in drifting
trackdays guys are few but we go to everywhere we can to race legally, we have 4 tracks in the country that host events and work and 1 that has been shrunk due to house building, which made it to the point that events cant be hosted there due to noise complaints
The 3 most popular cars to mod are the renault clio, the nissan v16 (sentra b13, yes that car was sold here until like 3 years ago) and the toyota yaris (the old one)
Since there's no fabrication of car parts at all locally, you either DIY or import everything, which makes it quite hard to do thing great but not impossible, add the null laws to support the car scene and you get an idea, can you believe that tint was ilegal until 2020? (or tires since we get chinese brand crap like there's no tomorrow, ever heard of ling long?)
Then due to exploits of importers that sell cars the prices are ridiculously high even before the pandemic, a used old r35 is 50kusd at the cheapest, an e92 m3? 40k usd, the n54 335i? its going for around 25k usd now if properly mantained
But all in all, the people who really like cars is great, we all are very passionate even if limited and are quite honest about it
@@Pho6oZ Interesting about the pricing. You are looking at 100k+ for R35 here and e92 m3s are between 50k and 90k. But our n54s are really 20-30k (stock ones)
@@ZeroTo60Tube wait ar ethose prices usd or aud? algo 100k for a new or used r35?
Cause if those are the prices USD, its actually cheaper to buy them here than there. But its surprising how much of a gap there is between the m3 and the 335i
@@Pho6oZ AUD all used, new a GTR is around $200-250k here. G80 m3 is 180-200K. A new e92 335 was $120k back in 2006 (half the price of a house back then).
naver uses fabi filters at all
Penrite assembly hand moisturiser
Its quite nice actually.
My guess is assembly lube.
Oh you said it in the video lol. Oops
60w is too thick!
The bottom number is (0w, 5w, 10w, etc) is what matters at start up. The top number relates to oil viscosity when the oil is at operating temp, and since he'll be doing roll racing with ALL THE BOOST, it's going to get hot af. 60 as the top number is good.
It's against the grain for sure. The Castrol Supercar 10w60, is a different oil to the Castrol TWS 10w60 (this oil is like 20 years old) which had all the S65/S85 bearing problems. I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30/5w40 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me. But each to thier own. All that matters with the weight of the oil is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so.
You're not still running 10w-60 or something crazy are you? MAX a 40 not 60 after the winter rating
Our winters still see 30deg c during the day and only drop to 12-15 at night. I have only stripped OHHRLYs motor which was run on 10w60 and the OG 17T motor ran on 5w30/5w40 and the 17t bearings looks a lot more worn than ohhrlys. In fact it was seeing ohhrlys bearings after the beating that thing went through that cemented using 10w60 for me, in fact the bearing on the rod that snapped still didn't look too bad. But each to their own. All that matters with these retail oils and weight ratings is that the oil pressure is in spec. The thicker oil will make more oil pressure but use more power while doing so. When you have the motor making nearly 3 times the power it was intended to make on 5w30, its obvious changing oil spec needs to be a consideration.
@@ZeroTo60Tube For the clearances of this engine it's all about flow rather than oil pressure. As I think you went undersize bearings (eg more clearance) you might get away with it, but that oil is for the 80s and 90s M cars; even the modern M5 with 600+ HP still uses 5w30 or 5w40
You will always have metallic in the oil on a new build
👍👍
Typical break in stuff, she’s fine.
Disaster averted lol
Assembly lube
Typ break in stuff, she should be fine.
Second...oil in this engine :)
Sorry - you timed it WITHOUT a timing tool?!
no..... well i didnt do that properly either. I didnt tension the timing the chain with the timing chain tensioner tool....... But the cam ledged are supposed to be clamped together, then bolted on then the clamps removed. I just aligned it by eye.
5-40 ftw
Thats what Aussie oil companies recommend for the stock n54. We are pretty hot climate, so i know what i am doing wont work for everyone.
"By me, not properly" 😅
haha
first
I just started my n54 build 3 weeks ago,I used maxpeeding rods with custom trauma pistons .I also almost had a heart attack when I checked the filter,but. The machine shop that assembled the shortblock used assembly lube with alot of moly in it and it scared the crap out of me. Been watching you for a while keep up the good work.