I've started doing this with my TH hives ,works very well ,thankyou.Something I did is put up a sheet of ply between the hives as a temporary and removed it 4 to 5 days later.The TH didn't like another hive too close but I have them about 300mm apart now and no fighting.
First time commenting but nick you are amazing and I have learnt so much from your videos. Your knowledge of these tiny creatures doesn't cease to amaze me and your videos demonstrate this. Additionally, your passion and care for native bees is something this world needs more of!
Wow thank you for writing such a thoughtful message. I am glad I have been able to help. When I started there wasn’t much help around so it’s been a goal of mine to help others. It’s great getting feedback now, from others who are giving it a go.
I think it will!!! 😄 The trick with eduction is to constantly monitor them. After they have made the tunnel and a few honey pots adding your brood should speed them along like crazy. But it isn’t over at that time. Once the hive is full of bees and they are making lots of structure ensuring that you add either a couple of queen cells or “New brood” will Help you have certainty that a new queen will happen. 👍🏼
Nick, I’ve watched a video on in vitro making queens. The difficulty was that it was in Hindi with English translations on a rolling header. Do you know of way to rear queens to expand hives quicker then splitting or trapping. I’m having difficulty buying hives in the Philippines and the price is double a months salary in the PI. I really need many hives to increase my coconut and banana harvests.
Hi, if you were to split the hives, could you do so in position? or would you recommend removing the one you wish to split. Or can you split multiple at the same time or would it go crazy? And would you leave them in position and just move to the side?
Hi Nick, Thank you for all your very informative videos 👌🏼. Have you ever tried to educt a weak hive that has no queen and low numbers? I’m wondering as an experiment could I connect a very weak micro hive to a stronger hive but only at night and disconnect each morning and see what happens? The 2 Hives are within a foot of each other already and the brood in the weak queen-less hive was donated from the one I’d be connecting to. My thought is they would help work at night and maybe gain a virgin queen? Or do you think that only fighting will occur? Tho I was told they only fight when flying into another hive not one connected at night or via eduction tube. Any thoughts??. Thanks again for all you’ve done it’s very appreciated.
No once your hives have lived together a good 3 months they will all work as a team. Honey collection, brood work or opening any of the hives is fine. However if you introduce a new hive into the middle of you line of boxes it will be destroyed very fast by the full force of all the boxes.
Dave Baxter there are many types of swarms. Check out the playlists on this Chanel and you will find a video with types of swarms. This will help a little to determine what type of swarm you have.
John Downey if in nsw make either of the ones on the blog under hive design. I have drawn up some pictures with measurements there. Go the the base of the page and there will be link to the updated version. 👍🏻
Michael Jade you may have another hive robbing yours? If it appears to be brown and spiked on their legs, then it is wax and they are making a new hive somewhere.
@@australiannativebee3662 my bees seem to be taking large clumps of something in their mouths and taking it out of the entrance, any idea what they are doing?
Ask on a couple of bee sites. I'm in Sydney and I've been told Sydney is about the lower limit for them. If they were in a shed, or conservatory or something in Melbourne you'd be safer. facebook.com/groups/sydneynativebees
They are happy together but vertical stacks are better then what I have in the video. The reason being is it allows the bees gps to more accurately end up in the correct hive. Ie less drift. They work as a super colony to defend and if one gets attacked you better be ready for a return defense swarm 3x as big as the attacking one. 😄👍🏻
I used to sell them but not so much anymore. When first building a colony it is best to leave the honey super off because a smaller space helps them to regulate humidity. Later once hive is full I put them on.
Hey there! In the wild stingless bees use a few different methods to defend against ants. 1) a long entrance tube that is constructed of a special sticky resin to stop ants from sitting at the entrance. 2) a dark sticky mess of resin placed around the hive entrance is another method they use. 3) bees carrying blobs of resin in their mandibles and waiting at the entrance of the hive to stick them on ants. If you have stingless bees and are wanting to protect them from ants you can do a few things. Use a water barrier or grease on your hive post or use some tubing to extend their entrance hole. To help them defend. I hope this helps answer your question? Kind regards Nick
Australiannativebee Thank you very much for your reply. Yesterday, I open my bamboo hive after seeing many ants around it. turned out the bees has all dead. So regret that I undermine the danger of ants. three weeks ago, I open the hive. There were many dead bees inside. Didn't bees put their dead outside? or maybe there was a kind of disesase?
Yes it's sad when this happens. Generally speaking ants only move into an established hive when they get a weakness. Low bee numbers, hive overheating, another bee swarm overtaking and killing lots of guard bees. Diesease at least here is a very rare to wipe out a hive.
Australiannativebee It makes me confuse the ants attack din't happen until I open the hive. Anyway, my stingless bee species is trigona laviaceps. I don't know if they are also presents in Australia. The honey pot were irregular in arrangement and also very small, about 5 to 7milimeter in diameter. have a good day, mate!
I've started doing this with my TH hives ,works very well ,thankyou.Something I did is put up a sheet of ply between the hives as a temporary and removed it 4 to 5 days later.The TH didn't like another hive too close but I have them about 300mm apart now and no fighting.
First time commenting but nick you are amazing and I have learnt so much from your videos. Your knowledge of these tiny creatures doesn't cease to amaze me and your videos demonstrate this. Additionally, your passion and care for native bees is something this world needs more of!
Wow thank you for writing such a thoughtful message. I am glad I have been able to help. When I started there wasn’t much help around so it’s been a goal of mine to help others. It’s great getting feedback now, from others who are giving it a go.
You're welcome :). I just started my first eduction today... fingers crossed it works out
I think it will!!! 😄 The trick with eduction is to constantly monitor them. After they have made the tunnel and a few honey pots adding your brood should speed them along like crazy. But it isn’t over at that time. Once the hive is full of bees and they are making lots of structure ensuring that you add either a couple of queen cells or “New brood” will Help you have certainty that a new queen will happen. 👍🏼
I’ve moved my two hockingsi hives closer together too quickly now I have the biggest fighting swarm !
For the last two days now !
Nick, I’ve watched a video on in vitro making queens. The difficulty was that it was in Hindi with English translations on a rolling header. Do you know of way to rear queens to expand hives quicker then splitting or trapping. I’m having difficulty buying hives in the Philippines and the price is double a months salary in the PI. I really need many hives to increase my coconut and banana harvests.
Hi Nick. Can you recommend a place I can purchase a good quality hive from? Thanks.
Hi Nick I am wondering where about do you live. I am wondering for to see when you harvest honey
Hi, if you were to split the hives, could you do so in position? or would you recommend removing the one you wish to split. Or can you split multiple at the same time or would it go crazy? And would you leave them in position and just move to the side?
Hi Nick, Thank you for all your very informative videos 👌🏼. Have you ever tried to educt a weak hive that has no queen and low numbers? I’m wondering as an experiment could I connect a very weak micro hive to a stronger hive but only at night and disconnect each morning and see what happens? The 2 Hives are within a foot of each other already and the brood in the weak queen-less hive was donated from the one I’d be connecting to. My thought is they would help work at night and maybe gain a virgin queen? Or do you think that only fighting will occur? Tho I was told they only fight when flying into another hive not one connected at night or via eduction tube. Any thoughts??. Thanks again for all you’ve done it’s very appreciated.
will they all got upset at once when you extract the honey or doing brood transfer?
In other words, will they chain-triggered when one hive disturbed?
No once your hives have lived together a good 3 months they will all work as a team. Honey collection, brood work or opening any of the hives is fine. However if you introduce a new hive into the middle of you line of boxes it will be destroyed very fast by the full force of all the boxes.
Hi Native bee.
Can you tell me what is the result of a swarm? Why are they swarming?
Dave Baxter there are many types of swarms. Check out the playlists on this Chanel and you will find a video with types of swarms. This will help a little to determine what type of swarm you have.
Id like to get some bees but i do not want the honey. So how big a box should i make. Thanks
John Downey if in nsw make either of the ones on the blog under hive design. I have drawn up some pictures with measurements there. Go the the base of the page and there will be link to the updated version. 👍🏻
Cheers Nick it was good lesson. Please Nick , can you tell me why my bees are taken pollen from the hive and disappearing then coming back for more?
Michael Jade you may have another hive robbing yours? If it appears to be brown and spiked on their legs, then it is wax and they are making a new hive somewhere.
@@australiannativebee3662 my bees seem to be taking large clumps of something in their mouths and taking it out of the entrance, any idea what they are doing?
@@australiannativebee3662 and they some bees seem to be taking the sticky resin that surrounds the entrance hole, does that mean they are robbing it?
@@liamstothard7574 the clumps of something in their mouth are bee's excretory byproducts and some dead bees.
Hy mate
I have 6 QLD carbonaria hives, i am moving to Melbourne in 2 months and planning to bring them with me. Will they survive there? Thanks
Ask on a couple of bee sites. I'm in Sydney and I've been told Sydney is about the lower limit for them. If they were in a shed, or conservatory or something in Melbourne you'd be safer. facebook.com/groups/sydneynativebees
Hi Nick, so you find they are happier in a line than in a stack so to speak? Is a stack of 4 hives in 2 rows ok?
They are happy together but vertical stacks are better then what I have in the video. The reason being is it allows the bees gps to more accurately end up in the correct hive. Ie less drift.
They work as a super colony to defend and if one gets attacked you better be ready for a return defense swarm 3x as big as the attacking one. 😄👍🏻
Thanks for that. :)
Wow, you have so many of the hives. Do you sell them? If yes do you ship it oversea? Don't use install supers for these hives?
I used to sell them but not so much anymore. When first building a colony it is best to leave the honey super off because a smaller space helps them to regulate humidity. Later once hive is full I put them on.
I wonder in their defence mechanism against ants and other intruders.
Could you help me on that?
thank you
Hey there! In the wild stingless bees use a few different methods to defend against ants.
1) a long entrance tube that is constructed of a special sticky resin to stop ants from sitting at the entrance.
2) a dark sticky mess of resin placed around the hive entrance is another method they use.
3) bees carrying blobs of resin in their mandibles and waiting at the entrance of the hive to stick them on ants.
If you have stingless bees and are wanting to protect them from ants you can do a few things.
Use a water barrier or grease on your hive post or use some tubing to extend their entrance hole. To help them defend.
I hope this helps answer your question?
Kind regards
Nick
Australiannativebee Thank you very much for your reply.
Yesterday, I open my bamboo hive after seeing many ants around it. turned out the bees has all dead.
So regret that I undermine the danger of ants.
three weeks ago, I open the hive. There were many dead bees inside. Didn't bees put their dead outside? or maybe there was a kind of disesase?
Yes it's sad when this happens. Generally speaking ants only move into an established hive when they get a weakness. Low bee numbers, hive overheating, another bee swarm overtaking and killing lots of guard bees. Diesease at least here is a very rare to wipe out a hive.
Australiannativebee It makes me confuse the ants attack din't happen until I open the hive.
Anyway, my stingless bee species is trigona laviaceps.
I don't know if they are also presents in Australia.
The honey pot were irregular in arrangement and also very small, about 5 to 7milimeter in diameter.
have a good day, mate!
Hi in you great clip 6:34 in i see what seems to be a bee with 2 yellow dots on its wings was that a bee in hive number 2 ?
Great eyes!! It certainly is a bee. She is carrying a full load of pollen on her legs. 👍🏻
Hi.I like so much
Salam satu hobi, saya dari indonesia🥰🥰🥰😍
Hai nick..pls send 1 box to malaysia