I could watch you for HOURS putting these models together. The engineering and precision of your skills is remarkable. Also you always give such great tips and tricks. Thank you for doing these videos and providing such great inspiration. Can't wait for the next one in the series.
I've watched you build a couple of these 350 scale Enterprise's, and it is always informative and enjoyable keep going and we will all keep watching.🖖👍👍
Thanks for more great info!I like others do not mind if the video is longer.When you are learning and being taught new things in a very easy to understand way the time flows right by!
First of all, I have been watching your videos for years and you have taught me a great deal. Thank you so much. One comment though: I could be wrong, but I don't think they ever showed the port side of the ship in the original series. Maybe you should change up which windows are lit hypothetically. Just a thought.
I wanted to order one too (back last summer). In 2019, I bought my 'stuff', learned alot and then had a few painting failures (don't use decant Montana paints), then covid happened and thought I would just buy one. The covid crap wore off and I became energized to attempt to build again. I am tempted to buy one from Boyd just so I can have a visual, in person goal staring me in the face every day. I watched the series in the late 60's and was completely consumed by it.
Boyd it would be great if somewhere you listed ALL of the paints, glue (type), and other products you use somewhere in these videos. Because with all of your experience, I'd prefer to buy and only use the same materials that you do. Or if you have a detailed materials list somewhere else please reference it so we can all gather required materials. Again we so appreciate the time and effort you put forth in these videos. Best regards John
👆 this, bigly... a complete list would be extremely useful, one could order or obtain everything needed... Check off until complete, then start the build process, and not have to worry about missing things ....
@@ernestgalvan9037 Agreed! Great idea. It's so annoying to start a build and then realize you are missing something and you have to stop and wait for it to be delivered.
@@JohnJohnsonLiveTodayRadio Check out his recent video on what you need to get started. He goes through the list. ua-cam.com/video/F9oPv__aFAE/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/v1lF6XLCqeQ/v-deo.html
@@RankinImagery Mr. Rankin: Thank you for the link. I looked and looked but couldn't see where one had been listed before. I appreciate you directing me to the right location. Much appreciated! best regards, John
@@JohnJohnsonLiveTodayRadio It's not specific to TOS 1/350, but to most models he builds. If you have not built any models in the past, y ou may want to start with something smaller (I did) because this is an expensive kit, especially if you buy the lighting kit. I am about to start my first 1/350 and I have the Tenacontrols lighting kit, but have decided to use that lighting kit on the next 1/350 because the first 1/350 might not turn out as well as I would like. If there is anything different that he uses on the 1/350 he usually says it in the video. Also, when I first started about 20 months ago, I was gunho to start with the 1/350 and just go slow and careful. NOPE. When cutting the shuttle parts from the sprue, I inadvertantly cut off the locator tabs (only one) and that right there told me I need to start with something smaller and LESS expensive.
I got the 1/537 TOS cutaway or some people call it 1/650 TOS and I put brass flat bars in the pylons to keep them from flexing under the nacelle weight
Thanks Boyd. Very interesting. That's my project for 2021. Don't think we can get Anitas Heather Gray in the UK. Do you or anyone reading this have a viable alternative? Cheers
No I don't but I have lit those windows with SMD's. I opened up a new trench next to the windows with a grinder and then glued the SMD's on off to the side of each one and ran the wires down and into the hull.
Question, you said that you put the clear plastic windows in after all your light blocking and flat white with "regular model glue." Won't regular model glue react with the paint causing it not to dry? Are you talking about Canopy Glue? Thanks.
I use regular model glue and it works fine. It dries plenty strong enough to hold the window plastic secure. I wouldn't do that on a main structure joint though. Those will have pressure on them and need to be as strong as possible.
When I built my version when they first came out iused the polar lights kit witch had some good point and alot of bad. I believe they contracted a company to build the kit. They where a Japanese company and the language barrier and the fact that they didn't know about star trek polar lights had done a first grade job on the model fredom picturesw but they had a few days to see the actual 11 foot model that was going thrue a major repair it was hanging in the Smithsonian since 1974 when it was donated by Desi lu studios it had small renovations over the years when it first arrived they had know idea where the wires went or voltage so they had electricians in to try to figure it out but because the lighting was installed after the model was built they had drilled a big hole on what would be the port side and when it became a series the main engine domes witch where just red now some on or a group came up with using large Christmas lights on the perimeter then blinking lights in the middle and then appliance motors to run a fan cage and broken mirror glass to deflect the light and a coating of a clear flat sealant and it was amazing in my opinion even by today's standars. The fact that l.e.d tec had continued to grow enough could be used to light the model without the build up of heat the real 11 footer could only run for short times or it may start a fire but the kit for the model was close but it was designed for and people who had less experienced people then even me the soldered connection ions where difficult so I didn't trust them in places that wouldn't have any access after it was sealed the whole bussard lighting was very close but my blinking bulbs never worked right they did send me 3 othrs but it was always the same all and all I hadn't put a model together since I was 8 years old never painted one or lite one and I don't have a work area so I built it on my bed took of the mattress covered it with a tarp primed and found a rattle can that's paint color was close and it was and easy model to build I put it together with some painters tape and it was solid the plastic was very thick and rugged but after being on display for all those years there where issues with the light ING plus the color got yellow so I tried my own retail cleaned it with a mixed cleaner then once I saw the real color I tried fixing some lights the motors where always to fast and loud then one stopped some of the l.e.d.s no longer worked I try to contact polar light and they where very good but the new bussard circuit boards had been changed so I found the updated light kit on the net read about the improvements and saw a u tube video that really showed how nice it was so I found the cheapest price ordered it and have been slowly fixing it up the boards work perfect the motors are geared and slower like the show plus there very quiet though I never did anything on this scale if I keep going slow I think it might end up much better than the first attempt.
OH OH ME ME MY TURN!!!.. Hey Boyd, In your next video can you talk a little bit about that DC power supply your using to pre-test your lights?.. I'm looking at building more than a few lighted kits over the next few years and I think it would be a good idea if I get one for myself.. How it works.. What's the best options needed in one etc.... Thanks
I am not an expert model builder, but I can tell you that a simple power supply works perfect for me. You can find these on Amazon (DC power supply). I bought mine about 20 months ago and glad I did. You can use batteries, but, for me, it much better and easier using a power supply. About $60 bucks on Amazon. I would watch some videos on UA-cam about volts and current if you do not have any experience in that area. I did. I not an expert at model builder, but I am an expert about gathering information I feel passionate about
@@RankinImagery Oh Hey Bill what's up?. 60 bucks at Amazon, Well that gives me an idea of a cost range atleast.. Thanks J.D. p.s. Boyd sure makes it look easy don't he :/
@@Spindrift-id1ez I greatly appreciate that guy. Should I ever go to a modeling convention I owe him lunch at least. If it's not a budget buster and you want to build lighted models (more than say 2) you should get one.
@@RankinImagery Oh I'm gonna be building more than a few lighted models before I get around to my Jupiter 2 and then Enterprise. In fact I just got my Martian War Machine in the other day and I ordered Tenacontrols light/sound system for it. Looks pretty simplistic so I think that's going to be the first one I do with electronics installed.. My biggest problem is going to be paints, There is absolutely no hobby store here in Sheridan (ya it sucks) so I'll probably order them all thru Culttvman, Looks like Steve has all the colors I'll need. It also Sounds like he's dying to get rid of that stock too so I'm hoping I can work out a deal with him, Especially considering when the time comes I'll be ordering maybe fifteen to twenty jars of the Model Master colors.. If not more J.D.
@@Spindrift-id1ez i’m getting close to finishing my Martian war machine hopefully within the next week or two. I’ve been using Vallejo model air metallic copper paint for the war machine. There are a couple videos with tips about how to build a martian war machine ...if you haven’t seen them let me know and I’ll list a link. Also there is a Facebook group for the Martian war machine too.
Yes, everywhere on this ship except the lower saucer center dome. That I light in regular white because it's a sensor dome and supposed to look different.
“no one will watch an hour video”.... Speaking for myself..... I want to LEARN HOW to build and paint models. I want to LEARN the techniques of preparing parts (remove from sprues, sand or trim edges, fix sinkholes, etc) , learn how to glue parts together, LEARN how to prep for painting, LEARN how to paint with brush and airbrush... As long as the author is ALSO SHOWING, not just skipping the HOW IT’S DONE.... Remember, some of us have no idea how to do some of these things... WATCHING someone do it can give us the “Yeah, I should try that, looks not too difficult” confidence we need. And believe me, even your errors or “whoopsies” can instruct us... I have watched far too many “build” videos or “how-to” videos where the author just showed the end results, doing everything off-camera. What did I learn?? Nothing. Please, don’t dumb down your videos. Keep showing, keep explaining, and I for one will keep watching, and keep giving “thumbs up”. Thank you
I could watch you for HOURS putting these models together. The engineering and precision of your skills is remarkable. Also you always give such great tips and tricks. Thank you for doing these videos and providing such great inspiration. Can't wait for the next one in the series.
Get a lot of enjoyment watching you put these big kits together - very therapeutic methinks.
You can sure tell you've built a lot of these! Your experience and knowledge really show, which is awesome to watch.
Thanks, after 46 of these things I've picked up on a trick or two. :)
I'd watch you for an hour!!! Great updated videos Boyd.
Thanks Liam, have you built one of these yet?
Hoping to later this year Boyd. I’ve had it in my stash for quite some time. Building the 1/350 NX-01 at present.
@@LiamDillon Awesome, that is a really nice kit.
I've watched you build a couple of these 350 scale Enterprise's, and it is always informative and enjoyable keep going and we will all keep watching.🖖👍👍
This is like a masterclass. I’d watch for hours. Ready to learn brother keep it up man, appreciate it!
Thanks and will do.
This series has been a joy to watch. It’s making me want to build a third 1/350 kit!
Thanks for more great info!I like others do not mind if the video is longer.When you are learning and being taught new things in a very easy to understand way the time flows right by!
Great, it's hard to keep it short and still get in the important stuff I'm trying to share.
I’d watch this for hours on repeat. I’m getting ready to start this kit - my one big project for 2021. Learning lots from you - thanks!
Great, I'm glad to hear that you found it useful. :)
Nice video - and thanks for the inventory list at the end! Very helpful for some of us.
So far I built 3 of these Enterprise ships! Its really enjoyable! With lights of course! Working on my 5 th one now with the new light kit!
“...people aren’t going to sit for a whole hour and watch this...”. Yes we are! Most likely more than once.
"Most likely more than once." Exactly!!!!
First of all, I have been watching your videos for years and you have taught me a great deal. Thank you so much. One comment though: I could be wrong, but I don't think they ever showed the port side of the ship in the original series. Maybe you should change up which windows are lit hypothetically. Just a thought.
Excellent job on my starship...can't wait to see the finished masterpiece.
Thanks Tim, it won't be long now.
I wanted to order one too (back last summer). In 2019, I bought my 'stuff', learned alot and then had a few painting failures (don't use decant Montana paints), then covid happened and thought I would just buy one. The covid crap wore off and I became energized to attempt to build again. I am tempted to buy one from Boyd just so I can have a visual, in person goal staring me in the face every day. I watched the series in the late 60's and was completely consumed by it.
This was cool to see how u get this stage prepped great job 🖖😁
Thanks, after building so many of these i have it down to a pretty good routine that works pretty well.
@@TrekWorks I bet lol that's why I'm a big fan of trek works u do outstanding work
@@TrekWorks Thank you for sharing that knowledge!
Greatly appreciate it Boyd!
Boyd it would be great if somewhere you listed ALL of the paints, glue (type), and other products you use somewhere in these videos. Because with all of your experience, I'd prefer to buy and only use the same materials that you do. Or if you have a detailed materials list somewhere else please reference it so we can all gather required materials. Again we so appreciate the time and effort you put forth in these videos. Best regards John
👆 this, bigly... a complete list would be extremely useful, one could order or obtain everything needed...
Check off until complete, then start the build process, and not have to worry about missing things ....
@@ernestgalvan9037 Agreed! Great idea. It's so annoying to start a build and then realize you are missing something and you have to stop and wait for it to be delivered.
@@JohnJohnsonLiveTodayRadio Check out his recent video on what you need to get started. He goes through the list. ua-cam.com/video/F9oPv__aFAE/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/v1lF6XLCqeQ/v-deo.html
@@RankinImagery Mr. Rankin: Thank you for the link. I looked and looked but couldn't see where one had been listed before. I appreciate you directing me to the right location. Much appreciated! best regards, John
@@JohnJohnsonLiveTodayRadio It's not specific to TOS 1/350, but to most models he builds. If you have not built any models in the past, y ou may want to start with something smaller (I did) because this is an expensive kit, especially if you buy the lighting kit. I am about to start my first 1/350 and I have the Tenacontrols lighting kit, but have decided to use that lighting kit on the next 1/350 because the first 1/350 might not turn out as well as I would like. If there is anything different that he uses on the 1/350 he usually says it in the video. Also, when I first started about 20 months ago, I was gunho to start with the 1/350 and just go slow and careful. NOPE. When cutting the shuttle parts from the sprue, I inadvertantly cut off the locator tabs (only one) and that right there told me I need to start with something smaller and LESS expensive.
I got the 1/537 TOS cutaway or some people call it 1/650 TOS and I put brass flat bars in the pylons to keep them from flexing under the nacelle weight
I hope after this you do a 1/350 refit walkthrough. Or even a 1/350 NX-01.
Looking good!
Thanks buddy.
Thanks Boyd. Very interesting. That's my project for 2021. Don't think we can get Anitas Heather Gray in the UK. Do you or anyone reading this have a viable alternative? Cheers
Tony, tamiya TS-81 is the closest to Heather Gray I have seen.
@@henryschmitt7577 Thanks, I'll check that out :-)
It’s called Royal Light Gray
Hello Boyd, quick question, have you any videos on lighting the 3 windows on the pylons? Thank you in advance.
No I don't but I have lit those windows with SMD's. I opened up a new trench next to the windows with a grinder and then glued the SMD's on off to the side of each one and ran the wires down and into the hull.
Question, you said that you put the clear plastic windows in after all your light blocking and flat white with "regular model glue." Won't regular model glue react with the paint causing it not to dry? Are you talking about Canopy Glue? Thanks.
I use regular model glue and it works fine.
It dries plenty strong enough to hold the window plastic secure. I wouldn't do that on a main structure joint though. Those will have pressure on them and need to be as strong as possible.
When I built my version when they first came out iused the polar lights kit witch had some good point and alot of bad. I believe they contracted a company to build the kit. They where a Japanese company and the language barrier and the fact that they didn't know about star trek polar lights had done a first grade job on the model fredom picturesw but they had a few days to see the actual 11 foot model that was going thrue a major repair it was hanging in the Smithsonian since 1974 when it was donated by Desi lu studios it had small renovations over the years when it first arrived they had know idea where the wires went or voltage so they had electricians in to try to figure it out but because the lighting was installed after the model was built they had drilled a big hole on what would be the port side and when it became a series the main engine domes witch where just red now some on or a group came up with using large Christmas lights on the perimeter then blinking lights in the middle and then appliance motors to run a fan cage and broken mirror glass to deflect the light and a coating of a clear flat sealant and it was amazing in my opinion even by today's standars. The fact that l.e.d tec had continued to grow enough could be used to light the model without the build up of heat the real 11 footer could only run for short times or it may start a fire but the kit for the model was close but it was designed for and people who had less experienced people then even me the soldered connection ions where difficult so I didn't trust them in places that wouldn't have any access after it was sealed the whole bussard lighting was very close but my blinking bulbs never worked right they did send me 3 othrs but it was always the same all and all I hadn't put a model together since I was 8 years old never painted one or lite one and I don't have a work area so I built it on my bed took of the mattress covered it with a tarp primed and found a rattle can that's paint color was close and it was and easy model to build I put it together with some painters tape and it was solid the plastic was very thick and rugged but after being on display for all those years there where issues with the light ING plus the color got yellow so I tried my own retail cleaned it with a mixed cleaner then once I saw the real color I tried fixing some lights the motors where always to fast and loud then one stopped some of the l.e.d.s no longer worked I try to contact polar light and they where very good but the new bussard circuit boards had been changed so I found the updated light kit on the net read about the improvements and saw a u tube video that really showed how nice it was so I found the cheapest price ordered it and have been slowly fixing it up the boards work perfect the motors are geared and slower like the show plus there very quiet though I never did anything on this scale if I keep going slow I think it might end up much better than the first attempt.
OH OH ME ME MY TURN!!!.. Hey Boyd, In your next video can you talk a little bit about that DC power supply your using to pre-test your lights?.. I'm looking at building more than a few lighted kits over the next few years and I think it would be a good idea if I get one for myself.. How it works.. What's the best options needed in one etc.... Thanks
I am not an expert model builder, but I can tell you that a simple power supply works perfect for me. You can find these on Amazon (DC power supply). I bought mine about 20 months ago and glad I did. You can use batteries, but, for me, it much better and easier using a power supply. About $60 bucks on Amazon. I would watch some videos on UA-cam about volts and current if you do not have any experience in that area. I did. I not an expert at model builder, but I am an expert about gathering information I feel passionate about
@@RankinImagery Oh Hey Bill what's up?. 60 bucks at Amazon, Well that gives me an idea of a cost range atleast.. Thanks J.D.
p.s. Boyd sure makes it look easy don't he :/
@@Spindrift-id1ez I greatly appreciate that guy. Should I ever go to a modeling convention I owe him lunch at least. If it's not a budget buster and you want to build lighted models (more than say 2) you should get one.
@@RankinImagery Oh I'm gonna be building more than a few lighted models before I get around to my Jupiter 2 and then Enterprise. In fact I just got my Martian War Machine in the other day and I ordered Tenacontrols light/sound system for it. Looks pretty simplistic so I think that's going to be the first one I do with electronics installed.. My biggest problem is going to be paints, There is absolutely no hobby store here in Sheridan (ya it sucks) so I'll probably order them all thru Culttvman, Looks like Steve has all the colors I'll need. It also Sounds like he's dying to get rid of that stock too so I'm hoping I can work out a deal with him, Especially considering when the time comes I'll be ordering maybe fifteen to twenty jars of the Model Master colors.. If not more
J.D.
@@Spindrift-id1ez i’m getting close to finishing my Martian war machine hopefully within the next week or two. I’ve been using Vallejo model air metallic copper paint for the war machine. There are a couple videos with tips about how to build a martian war machine ...if you haven’t seen them let me know and I’ll list a link. Also there is a Facebook group for the Martian war machine too.
Nice ! ! !
What's that spray you use on the glue after you glue things down?
Zap accelerator. Do search on Amazon and it should come up. Works great!
@@RankinImagery Thanks! I'm soooo new at all this....
Do you use warm white led's in the saucer and the secondary hull?
Yes, everywhere on this ship except the lower saucer center dome. That I light in regular white because it's a sensor dome and supposed to look different.
So the CA doesn't affect the wire insulation?
CA glue doesn't actually melt plastic or vinyl like model glue so it doesn't affect it at all.
“no one will watch an hour video”....
Speaking for myself..... I want to LEARN HOW to build and paint models. I want to LEARN the techniques of preparing parts (remove from sprues, sand or trim edges, fix sinkholes, etc) , learn how to glue parts together, LEARN how to prep for painting, LEARN how to paint with brush and airbrush...
As long as the author is ALSO SHOWING, not just skipping the HOW IT’S DONE....
Remember, some of us have no idea how to do some of these things...
WATCHING someone do it can give us the “Yeah, I should try that, looks not too difficult” confidence we need.
And believe me, even your errors or “whoopsies” can instruct us...
I have watched far too many “build” videos or “how-to” videos where the author just showed the end results, doing everything off-camera.
What did I learn?? Nothing.
Please, don’t dumb down your videos. Keep showing, keep explaining, and I for one will keep watching, and keep giving “thumbs up”.
Thank you
People won't sit for an hour....but 53 minutes....