The six cyl. Is inherently smooth because of what’s called power balance. Good torque too. I went through a Chev. 250 and it was indestructible. Great job!
I like the way you could stand inside the engine bay straddling the straight six block with your feet, it's very handy when working around that engine and one good reason why it's a good design. V8's are great, but so is the straight six.
I had a 1964 Chevy Pickup step side shorty from Texas, I live in Michigan and bought it when i was 25-26. I rebuilt everything and even Repainted the inside of the Cab. All that was left was to Repaint the exterior. I Could Kick myself for selling it!!!! And it had a 230 C.i. with 3 on the tree, And a 12 bolt Rear End. I feel Sick to my Stomach everytime i think of it. And I feel the Same way only worse when i see What's been taken From us all. God Bless America and God Bless Our Great Republic that manufactured these Great trucks. I'm a 3rd Generation Auto worker. I Voted for Our President Trump and will not Give up. I will Keep my Faith and never Give up on Truth and God and What's Right!! The Truth will always come to light. You have a new Subscriber and Friend. I love the engine in Gray.
My first car was a 64 Impala, whenever it was being worked on I drove my dads 63 C10 that was rotten to the gills but dad had rebuild the 250. I loved driving it even though the linkages for the 3 on the tree was worn out and would often bind up. Standing for God and truth, and we will get our president back, we just have to wait on His timing. God Bless!
I sure like your build. I have a 1961 Apache 30 that is going to get much of the same work done. It came originally with the 235 but had a 292 transplanted into it. So I am watching with great interest.
I hope all is well with you - I have just bought ( sight unseen) a truck with this exact engine in it that as far as anyone can tell me has not run in years. I anticipate a re-build, so, It is incredibly useful to watch you do this work, also very enjoyable to see it done so well. Its inspiring. CM - South Africa. ( PS My engine is circa 1976 General Motors South Africa) 250. Unknown condition.
i just bought my wifes grandpas 1935 chevy standard ( EC i believe) yesterday, this vid will be helping me alot on my journey. thank you so much for taking the time to make these. im subscribed
that Permatex is ok on old engines, but modern OBD2 sensors dont like that stuff. but it will always destroy the gasket if you have to remove a cover or such. On paper / cork gaskets, try grease. smear it thinly over the entire surface of the gasket and then fit it up. this seals the paper, stops leaks, both coolant and fuel/oils. also stops the paper from rotting, and helps the covers come off saving the gasket for reuse if needed.
Your videos have been an incredible resource for working on my 1973 Grumman Olson with the same 292. I documented sealing everything on my channel (rear/front main seal, freeze plugs, push rod covers etc) like you did, but I have to do the head gasket as the last thing to seal up and this is going to make it SO much easier. Thank you so much again :) My page takes a lot of inspiration from yours.
I'm all in with the Permatex. Use it all over the place, pretty much ever gasket gets coated. While I don't use the impact wrench I will run stuff down with a nut driver to save time. On my 250 I did the lump port kit, which was a major upgrade in breathing, as well as HEI, long tube headers, and an intake with a small 4 bbl. Stock cam, so maybe only about a 30-35 HP bump, but that's a lot over 150 stock.
Great job. However, not to criticize, just to improve: 1.- you should have to use a sealing like permatex to fit the suction pipe to the pump, otherwise the oil suction it is not guaranteed 2.- Nothing was explained regarding how to graduate the valves. Because of hydraulic lifters, it should be easy to explain it according to the first and fourth piston´s position
I am at the point of installing new lifters into my existing 250. So, pre-soak lifters overnight in oil, or, no! I am seeing conflicting information online. One video stated if you presoak, it will cause issues with setting lash and to just coat with assembly lube and drop them in. Thoughts from you? Also, thank you for all your help so far. I am one step closer to hopefully stopping the ticking!!
Great Clip. I'm rebuilding a 1958 235 and a lot of your clips have been a great help. Just wondering what your thoughts are on 2020 tech head gasket Vs Old style copper gasket? Cheers PS I liked the plastic sleeve tip but the clutch plug was a winner 😊
Great video! When you placed the head on the block I asked myself whether you were not using guide bolts but then I remembered there were dowels on the block. And as to the sealant on the head bolts, why do that, The bolts are torqued down and what is going to bypass them or anything leak? Nonetheless, I accept that it is necessary for some reason I don't understand. Never had one to loosen up or come out. Just saying. You do a good job and it is amazing how meticulous you are. That is admirable. Is too!
Some head bolts, or studs, thread into a water passageway as opposed to a bolt threading into what's called a blind hole meaning the bottom is closed and doesn't require any sealant. Without the sealant water and coolant can leak into areas occupied by oil and make most people think they have a head gasket leak when they see their oil turn to chocolate milk.
not all the 292 head bolts are blind, some go into the water jacket and water will seep past the threads aand corrode and lock the head bolts to the block making it very difficult to get them out on the next rebuild
Yes please continue your video....just assume not all of us knows cars so any help is appreciated...we have a nice condition 292 straight six that has not started in 7 years where would you start to get it started
Pull the plugs and give each cylinder a small shot of Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug hole and let that sit overnight. Then put a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt and see if you can get it to move. If you get movement, trickle some gas down the brass tube in the top center of the carburetor to fill the bowl and accidentally spill a little down the throat as well. Then try to crank it. If you don't get any firing or coughing from the engine you're points may need to be filed or changed. If it runs as long as you feed gas into it but won't keep running on it own the needle and float in the carb is most likely stuck. You can try tapping around on the body of the carb (lightly) with a wooden hammer handle or hard plastic screwdriver handle. If you get lucky it will shake the needle loose and let it fall. Good luck, thanks for watching, and let me know how it goes!
yers ago i was stationed at naval station memphis at millington tenn, as a fresh 2nd class i didn,t get much money, i was living just barely above poverty level with a wife and 2 small kids,, i discovered an ag wrecking yard where i could buy cheap 292s take them to memphis to an engine rebuilder and make a little money, i had put a 66 corvette 327 in my 62 ford pickup but it cracked a piston and head, so i decided to put in one of those 292 sixes, i had bought an near new engine from a john deere haay conditioner and in ascrap tin pile i found a valve cover with john deere pressed into the cover instead of blank or chevrolet like the massey ferguson stuff, being the hooligan i was, and am, i bought thaat " John Deere/chevy" valve cover and repainted the chevy carb cleaner with john deere decals, some people heard that 292 in my truck and inquired what engine i had, i didn,t fib, i just opened the hood and let them look, i acquired a rep in my little town, that navy man put a john deere in a half ton pickup, he can pull anything!! you auta hear it, seasoned mechanics looked at it and not one saw the cchevy engine, all saw a john deere, i got a lot of fun out of that little 62 ford pickup with its tractor motor, lol i found four of those john deer/292 chevy engines but only one with john deere pressed into the valve cover
later i put 3/4 ton dodge front and rear axles under my little stepside and when peeople asked id say i think it may be a one off john deere proto type pickup thing, no one ever figured it out
Since you asked: You should have checked the ring gap for each ring in the cylinder that it was going to be used in. You shouldn't have touched the main bearing surfaces with your fingers. You should have seated the main bearing caps before torquing them down. You should have installed hardened exhaust seats. Knurling the valve guides is an unacceptable practice. Good God, hammering a damper on. That's all I can take. All that said I'm interested in this engine.
A video that meticulously shows every minute detail can be summed up in one word, boring. I prefer to show in general what I'm doing but if I showed every second of what I did I would loose most of my already small audience. Mechanics have been touching mains with their fingers for 120 years, as I said, I want to feel any grit if any. One way to miss feeling any grit or dirt is to be wearing gloves. Or are you afraid of oil from your hands? I've slavered the thing in assembly lube... I would hardly consider STARTING a damper with a dead blow dangerous, a real hammer yes, but a deadblow? No. I have driven pre-unleaded engines for years without hardened seats with no problems at all and the owner of this truck preferred to use a lead substitute if he felt the need instead of the added expense of hardened seats. Knurling valve guides was common practice for YEARS and in this case was performed by a machinist that was knurling guides before this truck was new. It was a way to get more service out of a head without a huge expense. It is of course understood that it won't last as long as inserts, but look at the truck, do you think the owner minds much? This is a drive it around town every once in a while vehicle, it's not going to SEMA. You may be a very detail oriented and meticulous person and that's great, I do my best to be one too. There are jobs where no expense is spared and you can take all the time in the world, and there are jobs where a guy just wants to get an old truck running to putter around town in. This was the 2nd one. Thanks for watching and I hope you'll return. God Bless
Hey, just joined the channel. Good content! I have a 235 I have rebuilt and I have coolant leaking into the oil. I had the block machine 10 over and the head was machined with new valve guides. Also, it was magna-fluxed and the machinist said he found no cracks. Is there another possibility? I changed the head gasket and still have the same problem.
I have a "Love/Hate" relationship with Permatex. I have used it for some 40 years, but last week, I found a "burst" container in the toolbox, in my truck. A quart of acetone later... 😞😞😞
All I know about those is that they had a real tendency to crack. I'm always of the mindset that if it's working, why fix/replace it? I would just recommend that you take it in to an engine shop and get it magnafluxed. If it's ok, why not use it? You may have the one that actually lasts. If you are worried about it however, just replace it. Every time you drive it, or think about your truck you will be worried about it.
Where did you get that white plastic bushing to hold timing cover in center place as you bolted the cover back on 12:31? What size ID/OD was it? Will this work for a 235? Thank you
This is alpine green offered in Dupli-color engine spray paint. The same color used on Detroit diesels and correct for this engine originally. During the 50's and 60's they were typically either Corporate Blue or this green. Most "stovebolt" engines like your 261 would have been gray - like a darker machinery gray. Engine colors weren't always standard even here in the US. In some cases they just used what they had. Considering yours is from Brazil...well, it could be anything.
Go to my channel and you can watch the entire project. If you look at my playlist page you will find them under 1966 Chevy C20. Here is the address for the video where I start the engine for the first time: ua-cam.com/video/HSd0xxpxq18/v-deo.html
So here's a funny story regarding the waterpump... I'm putting a new waterpump on my 250 IL6, and the pulley is rubbing on the housing... I have made an 18ga spacer, because I would have to grind down the pump body (there is no raised rib like the 292 pump) so I'm hoping the spacer shim will work. Accuracy in manufacture, seems to be slipping. 😔😔😔
Everything I’ve read says that the head bolts should be lubed but i haven’t come across anything says to use sealant on the bolts. My application is a Chevy 235. Is the 292 head install procedure different than a 235?
Ok, cool...I had kinda wanted to start fresh, will instead make use of what I have. I did catch your video with the torque down pattern & increments, also the bolt soaking. Any other things a novice would not know to do?
@@TheJayhawker hey there, do you have a photo of where a starter brace/bracket connects on a 292? I do not see a mounting hole on side of engine case. Have been going through starters & was thinking the absence of bracket might be why they eventually bust up.
I agree. Haggerty does some awesome stuff but the ultra high speed time lapse doesn't teach anything and the stop motion photography of the valves and springs walking across the bench tells me these guys are in no hurry
The six cyl. Is inherently smooth because of what’s called power balance. Good torque too. I went through a Chev. 250 and it was indestructible. Great job!
I grew up in the 1960’s and 70’s. Permatex Form-A-Gasket smells like my youth.
I have so much respect for you after seeing your post at the end of your video, as a veteran I thank you and may God Bless you
The thanks is all mine sir! Thank you for your service and may God bless you!
I like the way you could stand inside the engine bay straddling the straight six block with your feet, it's very handy when working around that engine and one good reason why it's a good design.
V8's are great, but so is the straight six.
This series is fantastic. I am getting ready to rebuild my engine and this series is a blessing. Thank you so much.
I like the way you make these vids ,informative with a little clowning seems like you enjoy building motors
Thanks a lot! Everyone seems to take everything way too seriously, we need a lot more clowning around!
I like seeing hands on for visual learning
I had a 1964 Chevy Pickup step side shorty from Texas, I live in Michigan and bought it when i was 25-26. I rebuilt everything and even Repainted the inside of the Cab. All that was left was to Repaint the exterior. I Could Kick myself for selling it!!!! And it had a 230 C.i. with 3 on the tree, And a 12 bolt Rear End. I feel Sick to my Stomach everytime i think of it. And I feel the Same way only worse when i see What's been taken From us all. God Bless America and God Bless Our Great Republic that manufactured these Great trucks. I'm a 3rd Generation Auto worker. I Voted for Our President Trump and will not Give up. I will Keep my Faith and never Give up on Truth and God and What's Right!! The Truth will always come to light. You have a new Subscriber and Friend. I love the engine in Gray.
My first car was a 64 Impala, whenever it was being worked on I drove my dads 63 C10 that was rotten to the gills but dad had rebuild the 250. I loved driving it even though the linkages for the 3 on the tree was worn out and would often bind up. Standing for God and truth, and we will get our president back, we just have to wait on His timing. God Bless!
I've been working on my 66 c10, these videos have been very helpful
Have a 1965 K20 with a 292 love that motor
I sure like your build. I have a 1961 Apache 30 that is going to get much of the same work done. It came originally with the 235 but had a 292 transplanted into it. So I am watching with great interest.
I have my dad's '60 Apache with the 235. It's rotten to the gills but I would love to get it up and running again.
ur work is good enough to put this good engine on the road again as should be... go ahead
Love that truck... I had a 61 gmc 1 ton fleetside
Great bushing installation tool !!
excellent. perfectly documented
I hope all is well with you - I have just bought ( sight unseen) a truck with this exact engine in it that as far as anyone can tell me has not run in years. I anticipate a re-build, so, It is incredibly useful to watch you do this work, also very enjoyable to see it done so well. Its inspiring. CM - South Africa. ( PS My engine is circa 1976 General Motors South Africa) 250. Unknown condition.
i just bought my wifes grandpas 1935 chevy standard ( EC i believe) yesterday, this vid will be helping me alot on my journey. thank you so much for taking the time to make these. im subscribed
Welcome aboard! Check out my 1948 Chevy playlist for a lot of videos that would better pertain to your '35.
I’m trying to some like that on my chevy 230 , I wanna dual exhaust but don’t know what diameter should I use , any suggestions ?
Me gustó su trabajo
Nice work, will definitely help with my rebuild!
Nice work on the great videos
that Permatex is ok on old engines, but modern OBD2 sensors dont like that stuff. but it will always destroy the gasket if you have to remove a cover or such. On paper / cork gaskets, try grease. smear it thinly over the entire surface of the gasket and then fit it up. this seals the paper, stops leaks, both coolant and fuel/oils. also stops the paper from rotting, and helps the covers come off saving the gasket for reuse if needed.
Your videos have been an incredible resource for working on my 1973 Grumman Olson with the same 292. I documented sealing everything on my channel (rear/front main seal, freeze plugs, push rod covers etc) like you did, but I have to do the head gasket as the last thing to seal up and this is going to make it SO much easier. Thank you so much again :) My page takes a lot of inspiration from yours.
I'm all in with the Permatex. Use it all over the place, pretty much ever gasket gets coated. While I don't use the impact wrench I will run stuff down with a nut driver to save time. On my 250 I did the lump port kit, which was a major upgrade in breathing, as well as HEI, long tube headers, and an intake with a small 4 bbl. Stock cam, so maybe only about a 30-35 HP bump, but that's a lot over 150 stock.
Merry Christmas! looks good
Love me some Detroit diesel alpine green!!
Great job. However, not to criticize, just to improve:
1.- you should have to use a sealing like permatex to fit the suction pipe to the pump, otherwise the oil suction it is not guaranteed
2.- Nothing was explained regarding how to graduate the valves. Because of hydraulic lifters, it should be easy to explain it according to the first and fourth piston´s position
I hate those people that need the camera in their face while making a video, so thank you for your video
My pleasure
I am at the point of installing new lifters into my existing 250. So, pre-soak lifters overnight in oil, or, no! I am seeing conflicting information online. One video stated if you presoak, it will cause issues with setting lash and to just coat with assembly lube and drop them in. Thoughts from you? Also, thank you for all your help so far. I am one step closer to hopefully stopping the ticking!!
I personally just drop them in. I'm happy to help.
Depends if you have solid or hydraulic lifters. Soak hydraulic lifters to limit wear on start up
Great Clip. I'm rebuilding a 1958 235 and a lot of your clips have been a great help. Just wondering what your thoughts are on 2020 tech head gasket Vs Old style copper gasket? Cheers
PS I liked the plastic sleeve tip but the clutch plug was a winner 😊
Great video! When you placed the head on the block I asked myself whether you were not using guide bolts but then I remembered there were dowels on the block. And as to the sealant on the head bolts, why do that, The bolts are torqued down and what is going to bypass them or anything leak? Nonetheless, I accept that it is necessary for some reason I don't understand. Never had one to loosen up or come out. Just saying. You do a good job and it is amazing how meticulous you are. That is admirable. Is too!
Some head bolts, or studs, thread into a water passageway as opposed to a bolt threading into what's called a blind hole meaning the bottom is closed and doesn't require any sealant. Without the sealant water and coolant can leak into areas occupied by oil and make most people think they have a head gasket leak when they see their oil turn to chocolate milk.
not all the 292 head bolts are blind, some go into the water jacket and water will seep past the threads aand corrode and lock the head bolts to the block making it very difficult to get them out on the next rebuild
New sub here! Thank you for the info!
Yes please continue your video....just assume not all of us knows cars so any help is appreciated...we have a nice condition 292 straight six that has not started in 7 years where would you start to get it started
Pull the plugs and give each cylinder a small shot of Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug hole and let that sit overnight. Then put a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt and see if you can get it to move. If you get movement, trickle some gas down the brass tube in the top center of the carburetor to fill the bowl and accidentally spill a little down the throat as well. Then try to crank it. If you don't get any firing or coughing from the engine you're points may need to be filed or changed. If it runs as long as you feed gas into it but won't keep running on it own the needle and float in the carb is most likely stuck. You can try tapping around on the body of the carb (lightly) with a wooden hammer handle or hard plastic screwdriver handle. If you get lucky it will shake the needle loose and let it fall. Good luck, thanks for watching, and let me know how it goes!
Pull the plugs and Dump Marvel Mystery Old in the cylinders for a few Days. Then put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and work it back and forth.
yers ago i was stationed at naval station memphis at millington tenn, as a fresh 2nd class i didn,t get much money, i was living just barely above poverty level with a wife and 2 small kids,, i discovered an ag wrecking yard where i could buy cheap 292s take them to memphis to an engine rebuilder and make a little money, i had put a 66 corvette 327 in my 62 ford pickup but it cracked a piston and head, so i decided to put in one of those 292 sixes, i had bought an near new engine from a john deere haay conditioner and in ascrap tin pile i found a valve cover with john deere pressed into the cover instead of blank or chevrolet like the massey ferguson stuff, being the hooligan i was, and am, i bought thaat " John Deere/chevy" valve cover and repainted the chevy carb cleaner with john deere decals, some people heard that 292 in my truck and inquired what engine i had, i didn,t fib, i just opened the hood and let them look, i acquired a rep in my little town, that navy man put a john deere in a half ton pickup, he can pull anything!! you auta hear it, seasoned mechanics looked at it and not one saw the cchevy engine, all saw a john deere, i got a lot of fun out of that little 62 ford pickup with its tractor motor, lol i found four of those john deer/292 chevy engines but only one with john deere pressed into the valve cover
later i put 3/4 ton dodge front and rear axles under my little stepside and when peeople asked id say i think it may be a one off john deere proto type pickup thing, no one ever figured it out
Did the oil pan ever leak? You mentioned the new gasket design has you skip 6 bolts. Any leaks?
No leaks as I was breaking it in. I'm in getting very close to finishing the wiring harness and then we will drive it!
Since you asked: You should have checked the ring gap for each ring in the cylinder that it was going to be used in. You shouldn't have touched the main bearing surfaces with your fingers. You should have seated the main bearing caps before torquing them down. You should have installed hardened exhaust seats. Knurling the valve guides is an unacceptable practice. Good God, hammering a damper on. That's all I can take. All that said I'm interested in this engine.
A video that meticulously shows every minute detail can be summed up in one word, boring. I prefer to show in general what I'm doing but if I showed every second of what I did I would loose most of my already small audience. Mechanics have been touching mains with their fingers for 120 years, as I said, I want to feel any grit if any. One way to miss feeling any grit or dirt is to be wearing gloves. Or are you afraid of oil from your hands? I've slavered the thing in assembly lube... I would hardly consider STARTING a damper with a dead blow dangerous, a real hammer yes, but a deadblow? No. I have driven pre-unleaded engines for years without hardened seats with no problems at all and the owner of this truck preferred to use a lead substitute if he felt the need instead of the added expense of hardened seats. Knurling valve guides was common practice for YEARS and in this case was performed by a machinist that was knurling guides before this truck was new. It was a way to get more service out of a head without a huge expense. It is of course understood that it won't last as long as inserts, but look at the truck, do you think the owner minds much? This is a drive it around town every once in a while vehicle, it's not going to SEMA. You may be a very detail oriented and meticulous person and that's great, I do my best to be one too. There are jobs where no expense is spared and you can take all the time in the world, and there are jobs where a guy just wants to get an old truck running to putter around town in. This was the 2nd one. Thanks for watching and I hope you'll return. God Bless
Awsum job
Great video-thanks! Also, not sure if anyone asked, what is that paint color you put on the engine? Looks great.
Alpine Green also used on Detroit Diesels I believe. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJayhawker Thank you!
Which Permatex sealer do you use on the bolts? I’m doing my ‘59 270 GMC head this week. GREAT video. 👍
Form-A-Gasket - Thanks!
Hey, just joined the channel.
Good content!
I have a 235 I have rebuilt and I have coolant leaking into the oil. I had the block machine 10 over and the head was machined with new valve guides.
Also, it was magna-fluxed and the machinist said he found no cracks.
Is there another possibility?
I changed the head gasket and still have the same problem.
Oh my goodness…you just talked about using sealant on the head bolts and that is something I overlooked.
Wow!
So.... just exactly when can you get started on mine ?
I have a "Love/Hate" relationship with Permatex. I have used it for some 40 years, but last week, I found a "burst" container in the toolbox, in my truck. A quart of acetone later... 😞😞😞
Love the channel. Is that high temp silicone you are using for the water pump and head bolts etc. ?
Permatex Form - A - Gasket
For its day the 292 was "bullet proof".
I have a 79 GMC with an Intercalhead 250ci . If I rebuild this engine should I find a different head with separate intake and exhaust manifolds?
All I know about those is that they had a real tendency to crack. I'm always of the mindset that if it's working, why fix/replace it? I would just recommend that you take it in to an engine shop and get it magnafluxed. If it's ok, why not use it? You may have the one that actually lasts. If you are worried about it however, just replace it. Every time you drive it, or think about your truck you will be worried about it.
Where did you get that white plastic bushing to hold timing cover in center place as you bolted the cover back on 12:31? What size ID/OD was it? Will this work for a 235? Thank you
I seam to have misplaced my head dowel pins. Would you happen to know the part#. I have searched the inter web with no success.
I was about to cringe when I say you put the impact on that head bolt
Whats the color you painted it. My 261 from Brazil is a green that looks close and i havent been able to match it yet. Mines def not alpine green
This is alpine green offered in Dupli-color engine spray paint. The same color used on Detroit diesels and correct for this engine originally. During the 50's and 60's they were typically either Corporate Blue or this green. Most "stovebolt" engines like your 261 would have been gray - like a darker machinery gray.
Engine colors weren't always standard even here in the US. In some cases they just used what they had.
Considering yours is from Brazil...well, it could be anything.
Can you please do a video of you starting and running in the motor I going to do a 68 250ci need all the help I can get
Go to my channel and you can watch the entire project. If you look at my playlist page you will find them under 1966 Chevy C20. Here is the address for the video where I start the engine for the first time: ua-cam.com/video/HSd0xxpxq18/v-deo.html
So here's a funny story regarding the waterpump... I'm putting a new waterpump on my 250 IL6, and the pulley is rubbing on the housing... I have made an 18ga spacer, because I would have to grind down the pump body (there is no raised rib like the 292 pump) so I'm hoping the spacer shim will work. Accuracy in manufacture, seems to be slipping. 😔😔😔
Everything I’ve read says that the head bolts should be lubed but i haven’t come across anything says to use sealant on the bolts. My application is a Chevy 235. Is the 292 head install procedure different than a 235?
Yes, the two are very different. You shouldn't use it on your 235 but you certainly do on the next generation of engines.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated
A guide to swap head in on a 292? Can it be done without dropping motor.?
Motor in a chevy g30 van
Absolutely, you can pull the heads off of almost any engine without pulling the motor.
Ok, cool...I had kinda wanted to start fresh, will instead make use of what I have.
I did catch your video with the torque down pattern & increments, also the bolt soaking.
Any other things a novice would not know to do?
heads are all interchangeable, only difference is some 292s have hardened valve seats and rotators on exhaust valves
@@TheJayhawker hey there, do you have a photo of where a starter brace/bracket connects on a 292? I do not see a mounting hole on side of engine case. Have been going through starters & was thinking the absence of bracket might be why they eventually bust up.
Is that a Wright tool box?
StorLoc
20:33 anybody know what size those spacers are on the passenger side mount?
What diameter would you use for a dual exhaust set up ?
I think the dual exhaust manifolds out there for sale are built for 2 1/4" pipes.
Dad taught me to flatten the bolt holes on the pan cause guys over tighten the bolts an the cork dosen't sit flat evenly.
I enjoy these vids more than the over dramatic and over produced
I agree. Haggerty does some awesome stuff but the ultra high speed time lapse doesn't teach anything and the stop motion photography of the valves and springs walking across the bench tells me these guys are in no hurry
do not drive the dumber on , you have increased the thrust washer lash .
No sealant on the head bolts and every bolt are in the water jacket "major fail"
had permatex on every single bolt, major win.