had to put a nut on the bottom of my clutch cause every time i pulled it, it would get too loose and it wouldn't "engage" factory it didn't even come with a bolt and it didn't start happening until 2 months after i got it
If you bend one fork, order both and replace them as a pair. If somehow one of them bent that same load was felt by both and the odds that the other one is damaged is pretty good. Even if it doesn't look bent, it can still be weakened. It's always a good idea to replace them in pairs. I've tried the replace the one that looked slightly bent route to save a bit of money. What I didn't see was that there was ever so slight bend on the other side that I had to roll the shaft on a known flat surface to detect. That was just enough bend to cause repeat seal failures and leaks on a Honda 450. The dealer mechanic caught it when he put a straight edge on it and there was a gap where there shouldn't have been one.
@@spitescorner So you bought a used bike with a bent fork and a new fork to repair it. Honestly a big guy like yourself needs a better built bike for all your weight if you expect to do any real off road semi hard riding.
Carb backfiring like that when you blip the throttle, to me, indicates a very lean condition. Adjust the A/F ratio and if needed swap the pilot jet accordingly. Adjusting a single cylinder carb is actually pretty simple because you can do it by ear easily. First close the pilot screw all the way in and note how many turns it was, just in case you want to put it back where it was. Then open the pilot about 2.5 turns and start the bike and let it properly warm up, take it for a spin if you want. You want the bike at full operating temperature. After warming up, if the pilot screw is on the fuel side start turning the pilot screw back to closed 1/2 or 1/4 turn at a time to lean it. At some point (if not immidietly) you will hear the idle revs start dropping and engine may even die. When they start to drop, your engine is getting too lean so start backing of 1/4 turn a time. Your goal is the find the spot where the idle revs are the highest AND the smoothest. The optimal spot is somewhere between the points where your revs are highest (not too lean) and where your idle becomes sputtery from choking on too much fuel (too rich). You can easily hear all this happening on a single cylinder engine. Find the both spots of too rich and too lean and find the happy medium between them. Blip the throttle too. Your revs should increase and decrease quickly without hestitation and hanging (very lean) or stumbling (rich) when returning back to idle. If the pilot screw is on the air side, you still have the same goal. The operation of the screw is just reversed, tightening is richer and opening is leaner. So start opening the screw first to find the spot where your revs start to drop from being too lean. Just don't let drop the pilot screw fall. 😁 Just in case that happens you know your pilot jet is way too big and you ran out of adjustment headroom. *Edit* oh, when you find the optimal spot, if A/F screw is on the fuel side and if you had to open the the screw more than 3.5 turns you want a bigger pilot jet. If it is less than 1 turn you want smaller pilot jet. Usually as a rule of thumb the optimal range is usually 1.5 and 3 turns before you want to consider changing the pilot jet to smaller or bigger. If it is air screw, I do not remember exactly what the range was. I think it was between 2 and 4 turns or such. 🤔
go with a 17t/45t sprocket setup, its much happier at 55+mph. also I put shinko 705s on mine and it got rid of that sketchiness with the stock chinese tires. I actually got stranded with a flat on the stock tires and then ended up crashing trying to limp to somewhere with cell service . (tire came off rim; oops, lesson learned) Not sure how much money you wanted to put into this bike, but the tires and gearing made this thing actually ridable on the street! Take care!
To be fair,I am a few inches shorter and weigh 220, on a grom sat up I am lucky to get real speed of 55. I have to tuck as close to the tank as possible to hit low 60s with +4 rear sprocket. That bike may be much faster than a grom when you get the fueling set.
Sounds to me like it needs a slightly larger pilot jet, cracking the throttle and then dying, too much air and not enough gas to make a full combustion. I would personally step up a size or two with the pilot jet and try it there 👍🏻
Because they don't trust Amazon. They know it's China and China and Russia will probably attack London first before New York City. That'll be the second one
.. Yes I'm on your side. I'm just saying the enemy definitely doesn't like you guys either. They even fight in England forever and you guys have had had such a great run with so many great kings and queens so they still have beef over that and holding grudges over that. And yes they hate America too. But trust me they want to attack you and us. I wonder who the access and the allies are going to be a going to see you like a list of each side
Definitely iran, Indian north Korea Russia China, South America and Africa will be divided. Some of the countries are for the bad guys and summer for the "good" lol all bad guys imo
Just a tip, put the motorcycle in gear and rotate the engine from rear wheel, that way you dont need to open any additional covers which you dont have a new gasket for and when putting back together might cause a oil leak.
@@spitescorner Once had a BMW K1600 that had the valves checked/adjusted and it leaked from that same cover and it was o-ring aswell. Just something to keep in mind.
It doesn't like snapping the throttle: try dropping the main jet needle one clip, or use half step washer. Possibly, use a thicker needle, and re-adjust clip height. For "burbling" (too fat) at upper rpm range, use a battery vent tube (clear tube) on overflow teat, holding loose carb in hand with clear tube looped up beside carb body, open overflow screw. Work looped hose up and down to purge air and mark fuel level in tube. Turn fuel off, open overflow, dump float bowl contents (gas) into pot. Invert (dry) carb, remove float bowl, and bend float tang down ( up when right side up) . What you're trying to do is keep fuel level 2-3 mm below float bowl gasket surface (leaning fuel delivery). Experiment with this until desired result is achieved.
I bought a hawk off a dude for dirt cheap in 2017. 4,000ish miles (on the odo, speedo broke years ago) of hard use and commuting it is still going strong. Modified ebay exhaust made it even better along with sprockets and obligatory valve adjustment. Is it worth buying new? Maybe but used for $400 for 100% sure. It sits in the Texas sun every day while my "good" bikes are safe in the garage. Oh, insurance is a few pennies a day.
Go with a 17t front sprocket, maybe go down a tooth or 2 in the rear and go down to a PE28M nibbi. The PE30M nibbi is rated for 250cc to 300cc. Technically the hawk 250 is a 231cc if I'm not mistaken
Because I can't afford a nicer one. Even with the cash spent, I'm in this bike for like $1500 including the bike. Offroad, it'll be alright. Also these bikes are all over South and Central America and the Asain markets doing alright.
17:44 if snapping the throttle in a carb bike causes it to shut down, it probably has to do with the afr being off, probably too much air and not enough fuel, maybe the 22 jet is too small, a 24/26 might be a better option i also noticed it didnt go above ~7k rpm, these engine can run to 10k when tuned correctly (mine can reach 11k with stock engine but some creative extras) so that may as well be because it doesnt get enough fuel to to beyond 7k, almost like a faulty rev limiter
reposting an old comment of mine in case anyone wants to know the best upgrades for these bikes imo : huge upgrades for chinese bikes list from my experience: -carb/air filter/exhaust (oem exhaust comes choked as hell, so a more "free" exhaust will help it become rev happy) -ignition coil wire assembly (yes, the whole thing, it was so shitty in my bike that it felt like a camshaft upgrade, it didnt even reach 9k with the "oem" one comfortably and once I changed it I didnt even realise i was banging 11k on 5th without struggling) -gearing and tires, no real explanation needed -brake pads/brake fluid extra upgrades if you feel spicy: - plastic tank and weight reduction in general -big bore kits and camshafts are available and do work apparently (havent done them myself) -better brake cylinders, relatively cheap upgrade, rcb makes good products for bikes like these (you might have to drill a whole for the rear brake screw) - crf/kx/yz/ktm costumes can go in these bikes with a bit of fabrication (and weight savings)
These bikes are set up for near ocean level, the market for most of these bikes doesn't have the high altitudes you can have in the US, most of them will not be ridden at that altitude and require rejetting to get the most out of those engines. I don't have a link handy but there are tables available for either carb he's using with the correct size for each altitude range. He does likely have an AFR issue.
Try raising the throttle needle one notch in the carburettor slide to see if that stops engine dying when you snap the throttle open or try a different profile needle. Carbs can be trial and error without the right tuning tools. Many years ago , I used a special spark plug made by "Gunson" that enabled you to see the combustion flame colour which told you if you were running rich or weak at various revs.
@@Jim-nm1en Looking at a sparkplug only tells you that it's got a mixture problem at some point in the RPM range, it doesn't tell you where. That's where sensors make a big difference on modern motors.
@@spitescorner mine is still using the stock air box too, so a 110 or even a 115 (depending on your elevation) would probably do the trick. there is a guy on youtube named motocheese that did a carb tune on the hawk 250 that helped me out quite a bit.
Is it that when the throttle plate opens too much vacuum is lost to pull fuel through the jet? And it's the pump that that corrects the issue by forcing fuel through to maintain fuel air mixture.
All combustions need 2 things: a fuel and an oxidizer. The Hawk chokes when you twist the throttle farther is because it lacks air (oxidizer), it has fuel, but without the right amount of oxidizer, it can't maintain the reaction going. The reason for the air intake to be a box is to provide constant air flow to the engine, without a box it consumes the air next to the intake, leaving no oxygen left to burn (like when the firefighters blow up explosive charges to put out fires by consuming the air).
Bigger carburetors don't give more gas. They pass more air. Carb cfm need to match the cfm passed by the engine at max VE and max RPM. You can assume you your wide open throttle VE is not better than 85%. Take the displacement and multiply it by max RPM. Then multiply that number by .5 because it's a four stroke. Then multiply that number by .85 for you volumetric efficiency (VE). Then buy the correct carb.
Get a wideband O2 sensor and rig up a gauge to see how close your jetting is, or take it to a dump tuner shop to see how your jetting and settings are. Pull the spark plug to see how it looks. Love the content.
I heard you mention these videos weren’t do the greatest. I have loved them. I absolutely love watching people troubleshoot and wrench on videos. Especially on rediculous projects like this!
Every carbureted bike I've owned has shut off if you snap the throttle like that before it's fully warmed up. I'm assuming it's because the mixture isn't quite right until everything's up to temperature.
Even though you found the other needle too rich and still think it's rich, lean is one reason that can cause an engine to die when snapping the throttle. If you like the jet you have in there in general, maybe try fiddling the fuel-air screw a bit.
Its called a vacuum carb. Replace it with a Keihin FCR with accelerator pump. In the real world, you're not going to wind that grip fast anyhow. However, with an accelerator pump the engine will get a shot of fuel down the throat revving the engine until the vacuum builds to draw fuel through the main jet.
The Hawk has never claimed to be the quality of a top 5 Japanese bike; simply read the specs. It’s a “250” pumping out 14hp for goodness sake. If your expecting that then don’t be a cheapskate and buy a Honda or whatever. The Hawk is an amazingly reliable and solid enduro-it’s not capable of hard on or off road use. It’s not built for that; it’s heavy, steel framed, and not very powerful. That being said the Hawk is AMAZING for what you pay and if viewed realistically is worth every penny. Plus, it’s just a ton of fun to upgrade with way lower cost parts😂
A new chain and 17t front 45t rear. 28mm PWK nibbi carb will cruise 60 all day. Stock chain is garbage and that hawk probably is 16t front 50t rear. Will still be good off road and won't be useless on road
Inhave the exact setup on the carburetor,But my issue is that the carburator is touching the bike frame near the floatbowl. Did you run into this issue?
Doing valve clearances on a bike like that isn't too bad. I'm in the middle of doing them for an 07 Triumph Bonneville I recently picked up. If the clearances are out of spec you have to remove the cam (or both cams) takes out these little puck shims that sit under the cam lobes, measure them with a micrometer and figure out what size shim you need to order to get the correct clearance. Kind of a pain in the butt... at least compared to what I'm used on vintage bikes.
Without sprocket gearing changes you have reached the limit in speed around 55. You forgot to tuck in and roll downhill! I can tell you didn’t have any strong Texas winds as a headwind or 55 would have seemed unreachable. 😝 It’s interesting to throttle the nuts off a slow bike though. Different to keeping a fast bike going speed limit slow. Your bike height and your height are much higher than a Grom or a Scooter so your surface area to the wind acting as a brake is much greater forces against your speed as a result.
How do the Chinese manage to make so much crap! They can (and do) make good things, but without guidance, they suck! I’ve got a crap clone 125cc made out of eBay bits, and that gets to 55 eventually.
It is NORMAL for the bike to bog on immediate WOT like that because your carburetor does NOT have an accelerator pump. When you snap the throttle to WOT, there is a momentary LEAN condition created. The accelerator pump compensates for this by literally spraying right into venturi. As you can tell on yours, when rolling on the throttle it is fine. No amount of pilot jet is enough to overcome the snapping of WOT throttle...note I am only talking about a single carb. This doesn't apply to multiple carburetors. When jetting the carb you need to ride it. You can't tune it when it's at rest with no load. Only change one circuit at a time starting with pilot jet, then Needle and finally main jet. Learn to read the spark plugs because that is the best tool for your AFR. Spark plugs will tell you exactly what your changes are doing in the combustion chamber. I would also double check you have no air leaks or vacuum leaks as they will cause lean condition and you will chase it by going fatter on your jets.
The 28mm is large as you would want for a true 250cc engine and the hawk doesn’t have a true 250cc but has a smaller engine and then marketing just called it a 250. 😝 30 is overkill for sure. You will find it a lot easier and quicker to tune the correct jet sizes and air/fuel idle mixture screw on a 28 than you ever will on that 30.
you put a smaller front sprocket and it will be worse . you a need a bigger front sprocket . or a smaller rear sprocket . 23.38 ,i think you got abit confused there .
That old hawk has a non counterbalanced engine. The new Hawk X 250 gets you a counterbalanced engine. You can get brand new engines and transmission for less than the price of a new replacement seat for a Japanese or Harley cruiser so you can have a lot of fun on a budget modifying and performance improving a Chinese bike. The cheaper education for motorcycle mechanical aptitude and hands on.
I always adjust my valves with an impact wrench. I mean, you can't be too careful - if a valve comes loose that means trouble. Hitch them down tighter than a snare drum. Valve covers the same.
Carbureted bikes don't respond well to stupid throttle inputs. They don't have a computer to actually think for you. You should try flat slides on a Busa.
Man who has ridden Harley motorcycles says that is way too tight? Doesn’t matter if Harley or Chinese, vibrations will work any non tight bolt loose and all motorcycle riders know loctite blue is your friend. It’s not if but when a bolt will loosen and fall off while going down the road due to engine vibrations over time. Just randomly turning the bolts when putting it back on it looks like you should go put some loctite on if you are not using a torque wrench or have years of muscle memory to know you have the appropriate torque on the bolts. Otherwise you’ve just loosened them so they randomly work loose while riding a lot faster than when they were tight.
The reason the bike dies when you quickly turn the throttle is because it creates a super lean condition where the valve opens quickly and air rushes into the cylinder but there's nearly not enough fuel; obviously this would never happen in a fuel injected bike but there are some carbureted motorcycles out there with something called an accelerator pump, this so called accelerator pump is part of the carburetor body that squirts fuel to match the air intake that takes place when you quickly and suddenly turn the throttle.
Carbureted motorcycles can stall when you snap the throttle open while idling due to a sudden increase in air and fuel entering the engine. When you snap the throttle, it creates a rapid demand for more air and fuel, which can disrupt the delicate balance needed for combustion at idle. This can lead to an overly rich or lean air-fuel mixture, causing the engine to stall. Modern fuel-injected motorcycles are better at managing these rapid throttle changes, making them less prone to stalling in such situations. So you can encounter this on all your carburetor bikes which you have in the past already experience encountering.
Bogging off idle to full throttle is common to non constant velocity carbs. You go very lean when the slide goes full up and the needle pulls out of the jet but the throttle body does not have the air velocity to suck up any gas. Do not operate a non-cv carb in this manner or richen the mixture and look for a compromise.
These Bikes are not worth stinking any more money into the gains you get from Upgrading parts is so minimal kind of pointless Only people benefitting are the people who are selling the upgraded parts
The throttle snap die is too big of a carb. The larger that venturi is, the less vacuum signal the jets see. Especially when you snap the throttle open bc vacuum drops to almost zero. Doesn't mean it's not the best size for max power, just not snappy
That's what I was thinking. I ordered a smaller carb JIC. They're like $70 each so it's no biggie. This one was designed for 250-300cc, the new one is 200-250.
The bike cutting out when you whip the throttle wide open on idle means it's STILL getting too much fuel. Adjust the fueling just a little, & you should be golden, it'll also perform better throughout the rev range
What's the deal with the left mirror placement? Is there a valid reason for it or did you just say phuck it, you live there now? And the lack of power is something that a cheap Turbo kit can easily fix. Either that or it will cause spontaneous disassembly of the engine.
Cuz there was a ram mount on the handlebar, and I was to lazy to take the mirror mount off the KLR. This way, no one could complain about it only having one
My Orion rxb125L is pretty sweet. Build quality was way better than I expected. Even came with fully adjustable suspension and electric \kick start. Just waiting on sumo wheel set now. Might be gearing. My 125 goes 55 np and hit 63 downhill with a tailwind. I'm only 160lbs on a 160lb so could fector in. Definitely interested in seeing you bore it out. I'm looking at the Daytona 190 with bore kit and 4v head. These Chinese are great for kick around bikes. The stock tires are trash.
@@carlitosbrigante6889 yeah I was going to do all the stuff myself till my annoying DMV was saying bonded title so I used streetohv, figured I didn't care about Texas plate for now anyways.
The hawk 250 has roughly 14 hp, the grom has like 9.7? Hawk has maybe 5-6 more HP than a grom, not twice as much LOL The hawk "250" is actually a 229 CC lol, and a sluggish, old one.. Also, yes, if you're on stock gearing it's designed for offroad torque, not top speed. My hawk has aftermarket gearing, chain, nibbi carb and exhaust and tops out at around 65-68 mph on flat road.(with my almost 300lb ass on it) I rarely go above 55-60ish though. Just doesn't feel right redlining nonstop lol Plus I live off backroads where the speed limit is 45.
I had many problems on my bike but let me just tell you it’s definitely a bike to just experience on sure there were issues with it but idk man I like the bike
Get old xr250l or dr250s or klr250 or xt350 all better bikes... Even a European bike would be better than a Chinese bike... But then again CM moto is kool
I'm really enjoying these wrenching videos because I have a Magician that is falling apart faster than I can fix it. And I'm actually learning a lot more here since nobody on the interwebs or real life has heard of the Ricky Power Sports brand. That makes it really hard to find parts and knowledge.
Bro what. Ricky power sports isn't the brand, they're just the dealer. The parts you're looking for don't have to be "Ricky Powersports" magician parts, they can be ANY magifican parts, or even any parts that happen to fit your engine. Like if you find that the zongshen engine is the same as the magicians (highly likely) then you can be zongshen engine parts. Almost all of these modern Chinabikes use only 2 engines as far as I can tell anyway, Lifans or Lifan copies like zongshen.
Hi Spite. I’m stopping in Manor TX this week for a couple days. My son lives there. I’m starting a 4500 mile trip around the southwest this week, passing through Texas, then to California, and finally back home to Tennessee. Would be fun to meet up and say “hi” for a minute. Let me know if that seems fun for you!
If you want to join in on the weekly livestreams check out the Patreon! www.patreon.com/spitescorner
The super tight valve cover bolts, when averaged with the other loose bolts on the bike, gives an overall correctly torqued motorcycle. lol
had to put a nut on the bottom of my clutch cause every time i pulled it, it would get too loose and it wouldn't "engage"
factory it didn't even come with a bolt and it didn't start happening until 2 months after i got it
Hawk is such a fun little POS! I love mine.
If you bend one fork, order both and replace them as a pair. If somehow one of them bent that same load was felt by both and the odds that the other one is damaged is pretty good. Even if it doesn't look bent, it can still be weakened. It's always a good idea to replace them in pairs.
I've tried the replace the one that looked slightly bent route to save a bit of money. What I didn't see was that there was ever so slight bend on the other side that I had to roll the shaft on a known flat surface to detect. That was just enough bend to cause repeat seal failures and leaks on a Honda 450. The dealer mechanic caught it when he put a straight edge on it and there was a gap where there shouldn't have been one.
Yeah I would have except I didn't order the fork. It came with when Dork sold it to me.
@@spitescorner So you bought a used bike with a bent fork and a new fork to repair it. Honestly a big guy like yourself needs a better built bike for all your weight if you expect to do any real off road semi hard riding.
Carb backfiring like that when you blip the throttle, to me, indicates a very lean condition. Adjust the A/F ratio and if needed swap the pilot jet accordingly.
Adjusting a single cylinder carb is actually pretty simple because you can do it by ear easily. First close the pilot screw all the way in and note how many turns it was, just in case you want to put it back where it was. Then open the pilot about 2.5 turns and start the bike and let it properly warm up, take it for a spin if you want. You want the bike at full operating temperature.
After warming up, if the pilot screw is on the fuel side start turning the pilot screw back to closed 1/2 or 1/4 turn at a time to lean it. At some point (if not immidietly) you will hear the idle revs start dropping and engine may even die. When they start to drop, your engine is getting too lean so start backing of 1/4 turn a time. Your goal is the find the spot where the idle revs are the highest AND the smoothest. The optimal spot is somewhere between the points where your revs are highest (not too lean) and where your idle becomes sputtery from choking on too much fuel (too rich). You can easily hear all this happening on a single cylinder engine. Find the both spots of too rich and too lean and find the happy medium between them. Blip the throttle too. Your revs should increase and decrease quickly without hestitation and hanging (very lean) or stumbling (rich) when returning back to idle.
If the pilot screw is on the air side, you still have the same goal. The operation of the screw is just reversed, tightening is richer and opening is leaner. So start opening the screw first to find the spot where your revs start to drop from being too lean. Just don't let drop the pilot screw fall. 😁 Just in case that happens you know your pilot jet is way too big and you ran out of adjustment headroom.
*Edit* oh, when you find the optimal spot, if A/F screw is on the fuel side and if you had to open the the screw more than 3.5 turns you want a bigger pilot jet. If it is less than 1 turn you want smaller pilot jet. Usually as a rule of thumb the optimal range is usually 1.5 and 3 turns before you want to consider changing the pilot jet to smaller or bigger.
If it is air screw, I do not remember exactly what the range was. I think it was between 2 and 4 turns or such. 🤔
^^All of that!!
I have this same carb and engine, it does the same, gargling rich wide open and lean on idle. The 30mm carb is just too large for a 223cc engine.
go with a 17t/45t sprocket setup, its much happier at 55+mph. also I put shinko 705s on mine and it got rid of that sketchiness with the stock chinese tires. I actually got stranded with a flat on the stock tires and then ended up crashing trying to limp to somewhere with cell service . (tire came off rim; oops, lesson learned)
Not sure how much money you wanted to put into this bike, but the tires and gearing made this thing actually ridable on the street! Take care!
Just a heads up, a lot of those "300cc big bore" kits only move up the engine from 229cc to a true 250cc.
You wouldn't believe how many 63cc China 72cc kits there are in the 50cc scene
There’s a true 250 and like 267ish or something
Those kits won't fit, 15mm pin on the engine and 16mm pin on the kit.
In the words of Karl Childers “ ain’t got no gas”. 16:06
"ain't got no gas in it"* if you're going quote something, do it right
To be fair,I am a few inches shorter and weigh 220, on a grom sat up I am lucky to get real speed of 55. I have to tuck as close to the tank as possible to hit low 60s with +4 rear sprocket. That bike may be much faster than a grom when you get the fueling set.
My hawk 250 83 on the highway it’s moddded tho got the carb done valves 14t front teeth, rear, 42 t or 40
I’m 200lbs
I was about to say there needs to be some carb work because i can hit 60 on my gy6 swapped ruckus.
Sounds to me like it needs a slightly larger pilot jet, cracking the throttle and then dying, too much air and not enough gas to make a full combustion. I would personally step up a size or two with the pilot jet and try it there 👍🏻
Yeah I'd say it's leaning out. It either needs a bigger pilot or an accelerator pump
thank f... amazon can't sell motorcycles in the UK... but we do rugby though....
Because they don't trust Amazon. They know it's China and China and Russia will probably attack London first before New York City. That'll be the second one
At least the football makes life bearable, depending on which team you support.....
People forget they have been fighting with United Kingdom way before America was even created
.. Yes I'm on your side. I'm just saying the enemy definitely doesn't like you guys either. They even fight in England forever and you guys have had had such a great run with so many great kings and queens so they still have beef over that and holding grudges over that. And yes they hate America too. But trust me they want to attack you and us. I wonder who the access and the allies are going to be a going to see you like a list of each side
Definitely iran, Indian north Korea Russia China, South America and Africa will be divided. Some of the countries are for the bad guys and summer for the "good" lol all bad guys imo
You’ve got to replace both forks
Just a tip, put the motorcycle in gear and rotate the engine from rear wheel, that way you dont need to open any additional covers which you dont have a new gasket for and when putting back together might cause a oil leak.
True, but this doesn't use a gasket. Just an o ring and it was still in good shape.
@@spitescorner Once had a BMW K1600 that had the valves checked/adjusted and it leaked from that same cover and it was o-ring aswell. Just something to keep in mind.
It doesn't like snapping the throttle: try dropping the main jet needle one clip, or use half step washer. Possibly, use a thicker needle, and re-adjust clip height. For "burbling" (too fat) at upper rpm range, use a battery vent tube (clear tube) on overflow teat, holding loose carb in hand with clear tube looped up beside carb body, open overflow screw. Work looped hose up and down to purge air and mark fuel level in tube. Turn fuel off, open overflow, dump float bowl contents (gas) into pot. Invert (dry) carb, remove float bowl, and bend float tang down ( up when right side up) . What you're trying to do is keep fuel level 2-3 mm below float bowl gasket surface (leaning fuel delivery). Experiment with this until desired result is achieved.
I am here for the epic christmas music :D
I bought a hawk off a dude for dirt cheap in 2017. 4,000ish miles (on the odo, speedo broke years ago) of hard use and commuting it is still going strong. Modified ebay exhaust made it even better along with sprockets and obligatory valve adjustment. Is it worth buying new? Maybe but used for $400 for 100% sure. It sits in the Texas sun every day while my "good" bikes are safe in the garage. Oh, insurance is a few pennies a day.
Go with a 17t front sprocket, maybe go down a tooth or 2 in the rear and go down to a PE28M nibbi.
The PE30M nibbi is rated for 250cc to 300cc.
Technically the hawk 250 is a 231cc if I'm not mistaken
Well you can get a new KLX 230 for 4999 and not have a sketchy bezos bike
I don't know why people risk their life on cheap busted machines.
Because I can't afford a nicer one. Even with the cash spent, I'm in this bike for like $1500 including the bike. Offroad, it'll be alright. Also these bikes are all over South and Central America and the Asain markets doing alright.
17:44 if snapping the throttle in a carb bike causes it to shut down, it probably has to do with the afr being off, probably too much air and not enough fuel, maybe the 22 jet is too small, a 24/26 might be a better option
i also noticed it didnt go above ~7k rpm, these engine can run to 10k when tuned correctly (mine can reach 11k with stock engine but some creative extras) so that may as well be because it doesnt get enough fuel to to beyond 7k, almost like a faulty rev limiter
reposting an old comment of mine in case anyone wants to know the best upgrades for these bikes imo :
huge upgrades for chinese bikes list from my experience:
-carb/air filter/exhaust (oem exhaust comes choked as hell, so a more "free" exhaust will help it become rev happy)
-ignition coil wire assembly (yes, the whole thing, it was so shitty in my bike that it felt like a camshaft upgrade, it didnt even reach 9k with the "oem" one comfortably and once I changed it I didnt even realise i was banging 11k on 5th without struggling)
-gearing and tires, no real explanation needed
-brake pads/brake fluid
extra upgrades if you feel spicy:
- plastic tank and weight reduction in general
-big bore kits and camshafts are available and do work apparently (havent done them myself)
-better brake cylinders, relatively cheap upgrade, rcb makes good products for bikes like these (you might have to drill a whole for the rear brake screw)
- crf/kx/yz/ktm costumes can go in these bikes with a bit of fabrication (and weight savings)
These bikes are set up for near ocean level, the market for most of these bikes doesn't have the high altitudes you can have in the US, most of them will not be ridden at that altitude and require rejetting to get the most out of those engines. I don't have a link handy but there are tables available for either carb he's using with the correct size for each altitude range.
He does likely have an AFR issue.
Try raising the throttle needle one notch in the carburettor slide to see if that stops engine dying when you snap the throttle open or try a different profile needle. Carbs can be trial and error without the right tuning tools. Many years ago , I used a special spark plug made by "Gunson" that enabled you to see the combustion flame colour which told you if you were running rich or weak at various revs.
Unique placement of that left hand mirror.
@@Jim-nm1en Looking at a sparkplug only tells you that it's got a mixture problem at some point in the RPM range, it doesn't tell you where. That's where sensors make a big difference on modern motors.
The guy (or machine) that tightened the valve cover bolts was 110% dedicated to his job
These valve covers aren’t going anywhere soon, boss
i put the different front and rear sprockets on mine and i can do about 65 wide open, and 55 cruises nicely. my carb has a 105 jet in it.
Good to know. I'm going to try a 110 on a 28 mil carb and see how it does
@@spitescorner mine is still using the stock air box too, so a 110 or even a 115 (depending on your elevation) would probably do the trick. there is a guy on youtube named motocheese that did a carb tune on the hawk 250 that helped me out quite a bit.
Maybe should have stuck with stock carby.
Try richening up the idle circuit with that idle mixture screw. It might decrease that off idle bog.
I’d either say get the lifan kpx250 or big bore this guy
The throttle snap thing might be a lack of an accelerator pump/a malfunctioning one. A "pumper" carb would fix this issue I believe.
Is it that when the throttle plate opens too much vacuum is lost to pull fuel through the jet? And it's the pump that that corrects the issue by forcing fuel through to maintain fuel air mixture.
I want to see you mod the crap out of this thing and SEND IT.
It shall be sent
All combustions need 2 things: a fuel and an oxidizer. The Hawk chokes when you twist the throttle farther is because it lacks air (oxidizer), it has fuel, but without the right amount of oxidizer, it can't maintain the reaction going. The reason for the air intake to be a box is to provide constant air flow to the engine, without a box it consumes the air next to the intake, leaving no oxygen left to burn (like when the firefighters blow up explosive charges to put out fires by consuming the air).
Bigger carburetors don't give more gas. They pass more air. Carb cfm need to match the cfm passed by the engine at max VE and max RPM. You can assume you your wide open throttle VE is not better than 85%. Take the displacement and multiply it by max RPM. Then multiply that number by .5 because it's a four stroke. Then multiply that number by .85 for you volumetric efficiency (VE). Then buy the correct carb.
Get a wideband O2 sensor and rig up a gauge to see how close your jetting is, or take it to a dump tuner shop to see how your jetting and settings are. Pull the spark plug to see how it looks. Love the content.
I heard you mention these videos weren’t do the greatest. I have loved them. I absolutely love watching people troubleshoot and wrench on videos. Especially on rediculous projects like this!
Every carbureted bike I've owned has shut off if you snap the throttle like that before it's fully warmed up. I'm assuming it's because the mixture isn't quite right until everything's up to temperature.
If you've jetted it correctly you probably also need to mess with the air/fuel mix for part throttle
Even though you found the other needle too rich and still think it's rich, lean is one reason that can cause an engine to die when snapping the throttle. If you like the jet you have in there in general, maybe try fiddling the fuel-air screw a bit.
Its called a vacuum carb. Replace it with a Keihin FCR with accelerator pump. In the real world, you're not going to wind that grip fast anyhow. However, with an accelerator pump the engine will get a shot of fuel down the throat revving the engine until the vacuum builds to draw fuel through the main jet.
The Hawk has never claimed to be the quality of a top 5 Japanese bike; simply read the specs. It’s a “250” pumping out 14hp for goodness sake. If your expecting that then don’t be a cheapskate and buy a Honda or whatever. The Hawk is an amazingly reliable and solid enduro-it’s not capable of hard on or off road use. It’s not built for that; it’s heavy, steel framed, and not very powerful. That being said the Hawk is AMAZING for what you pay and if viewed realistically is worth every penny. Plus, it’s just a ton of fun to upgrade with way lower cost parts😂
A new chain and 17t front 45t rear. 28mm PWK nibbi carb will cruise 60 all day. Stock chain is garbage and that hawk probably is 16t front 50t rear. Will still be good off road and won't be useless on road
Holy shit that thing was bent!
This poor boy needed some loving. And another new fork. Can I send you the bill? 🤣🤣
Inhave the exact setup on the carburetor,But my issue is that the carburator is touching the bike frame near the floatbowl. Did you run into this issue?
Doing valve clearances on a bike like that isn't too bad. I'm in the middle of doing them for an 07 Triumph Bonneville I recently picked up. If the clearances are out of spec you have to remove the cam (or both cams) takes out these little puck shims that sit under the cam lobes, measure them with a micrometer and figure out what size shim you need to order to get the correct clearance. Kind of a pain in the butt... at least compared to what I'm used on vintage bikes.
Give setting valve clearances on a Ducati a try, will make your triumph ones seem very easy.
Without sprocket gearing changes you have reached the limit in speed around 55. You forgot to tuck in and roll downhill! I can tell you didn’t have any strong Texas winds as a headwind or 55 would have seemed unreachable. 😝 It’s interesting to throttle the nuts off a slow bike though. Different to keeping a fast bike going speed limit slow. Your bike height and your height are much higher than a Grom or a Scooter so your surface area to the wind acting as a brake is much greater forces against your speed as a result.
How do the Chinese manage to make so much crap! They can (and do) make good things, but without guidance, they suck! I’ve got a crap clone 125cc made out of eBay bits, and that gets to 55 eventually.
It is NORMAL for the bike to bog on immediate WOT like that because your carburetor does NOT have an accelerator pump. When you snap the throttle to WOT, there is a momentary LEAN condition created. The accelerator pump compensates for this by literally spraying right into venturi. As you can tell on yours, when rolling on the throttle it is fine. No amount of pilot jet is enough to overcome the snapping of WOT throttle...note I am only talking about a single carb. This doesn't apply to multiple carburetors.
When jetting the carb you need to ride it. You can't tune it when it's at rest with no load. Only change one circuit at a time starting with pilot jet, then Needle and finally main jet. Learn to read the spark plugs because that is the best tool for your AFR. Spark plugs will tell you exactly what your changes are doing in the combustion chamber. I would also double check you have no air leaks or vacuum leaks as they will cause lean condition and you will chase it by going fatter on your jets.
The 28mm is large as you would want for a true 250cc engine and the hawk doesn’t have a true 250cc but has a smaller engine and then marketing just called it a 250. 😝 30 is overkill for sure. You will find it a lot easier and quicker to tune the correct jet sizes and air/fuel idle mixture screw on a 28 than you ever will on that 30.
All thr headaches fornbuying a cheap bike... spent a biy more yo buy a wr250 and get some riding content instead of wrenching content😅
I’d say for 1500 or 2k for this bike might as well end up saving you some money and get a 250 honda
you put a smaller front sprocket and it will be worse . you a need a bigger front sprocket . or a smaller rear sprocket . 23.38 ,i think you got abit confused there .
That old hawk has a non counterbalanced engine. The new Hawk X 250 gets you a counterbalanced engine. You can get brand new engines and transmission for less than the price of a new replacement seat for a Japanese or Harley cruiser so you can have a lot of fun on a budget modifying and performance improving a Chinese bike. The cheaper education for motorcycle mechanical aptitude and hands on.
I always adjust my valves with an impact wrench. I mean, you can't be too careful - if a valve comes loose that means trouble. Hitch them down tighter than a snare drum. Valve covers the same.
I just weld them in place with my oxy torch, then bracket them bouble bolted skookum as frigg. Because fuck using the proper torque, am i right?
Carbureted bikes don't respond well to stupid throttle inputs. They don't have a computer to actually think for you. You should try flat slides on a Busa.
PE30 and 122 main jet did not solve my throttle stutter at high throttle positions. I am going down to a 28 PWK.
Man who has ridden Harley motorcycles says that is way too tight? Doesn’t matter if Harley or Chinese, vibrations will work any non tight bolt loose and all motorcycle riders know loctite blue is your friend. It’s not if but when a bolt will loosen and fall off while going down the road due to engine vibrations over time. Just randomly turning the bolts when putting it back on it looks like you should go put some loctite on if you are not using a torque wrench or have years of muscle memory to know you have the appropriate torque on the bolts. Otherwise you’ve just loosened them so they randomly work loose while riding a lot faster than when they were tight.
The reason the bike dies when you quickly turn the throttle is because it creates a super lean condition where the valve opens quickly and air rushes into the cylinder but there's nearly not enough fuel; obviously this would never happen in a fuel injected bike but there are some carbureted motorcycles out there with something called an accelerator pump, this so called accelerator pump is part of the carburetor body that squirts fuel to match the air intake that takes place when you quickly and suddenly turn the throttle.
Carbureted motorcycles can stall when you snap the throttle open while idling due to a sudden increase in air and fuel entering the engine. When you snap the throttle, it creates a rapid demand for more air and fuel, which can disrupt the delicate balance needed for combustion at idle. This can lead to an overly rich or lean air-fuel mixture, causing the engine to stall. Modern fuel-injected motorcycles are better at managing these rapid throttle changes, making them less prone to stalling in such situations. So you can encounter this on all your carburetor bikes which you have in the past already experience encountering.
Big bore, a bit of carb setting up and she'll hit 70 !.....maybe more, it's got to be done Spite 😎
My 125cc's can smoke that
Should make a video with mamni scoob comparing this with his desert sled both on and off road
Im very familiar with Chinese bikes and they're nasty... the motor's tend to be reliable though
So many facets of fun watching this from garage to road to inspection! Is Austin ready for The Hawk…? 😂
I have a kp mini 150 and it will hit 62 (gps) on flat ground and nothing in front of me. I can't imagine the hawk being tapped at 55
I don't like Amazon but i like your chanel so there goes that I'm watching it
Bogging off idle to full throttle is common to non constant velocity carbs. You go very lean when the slide goes full up and the needle pulls out of the jet but the throttle body does not have the air velocity to suck up any gas. Do not operate a non-cv carb in this manner or richen the mixture and look for a compromise.
These Bikes are not worth stinking any more money into the gains you get from Upgrading parts is so minimal kind of pointless
Only people benefitting are the people who are selling the upgraded parts
You're lean on idle, probably. Get a gunson color tune.
Edit: your low top speed makes me wonder if you are lean on main too.
Bad vale or bad timing would cause that backfire threw the carb. I'd rip all that wiring out an redo it
I believe you should have went with the 26mm carb and try turning the idle up
Spite can you review motorcycles from india? Like the pulsar ns200, dominar 400, rr310, xpulse. Xmr , apache 200
None of those bikes exist in the US.
It's hard to do reviews on bikes they don't have in the US. Unless someone pays him to go to India and test them.
Spite get a garage whiteboard! It will help with the intros and staying focused.
The throttle snap die is too big of a carb. The larger that venturi is, the less vacuum signal the jets see. Especially when you snap the throttle open bc vacuum drops to almost zero.
Doesn't mean it's not the best size for max power, just not snappy
That's what I was thinking. I ordered a smaller carb JIC. They're like $70 each so it's no biggie. This one was designed for 250-300cc, the new one is 200-250.
Isn't that why the accelerator pump was invented? My '83 Honda comes with one.
I see one of my favorite songs playing on your phone “Pull harder on the strings of your martyr” by Trivium 👍🏻 I would also recommend Shogun
I like shogun, but Ascendancy and In Waves just hit different. That and the Phalanx of Court of thr Dragon
Forgot to mention in my other comment if you're only at like 100 miles the engine hasn't broke in yet, it really opens up after 500 or so miles on it
That's a nice banana peel? hanging on the side of your lift.🤢
Lesson learned?? Always replace forks in pairs spite
I didn't order the forks. The replacement came with
I'd say on a China bike you only replace what it needs cuz who says the two replacements you get are anywhere close in performance anyhow
The bike cutting out when you whip the throttle wide open on idle means it's STILL getting too much fuel. Adjust the fueling just a little, & you should be golden, it'll also perform better throughout the rev range
You need to modify your intake...you added fuel without adding air.
Buddy love watching ur videos...
What's the deal with the left mirror placement? Is there a valid reason for it or did you just say phuck it, you live there now?
And the lack of power is something that a cheap Turbo kit can easily fix. Either that or it will cause spontaneous disassembly of the engine.
Cuz there was a ram mount on the handlebar, and I was to lazy to take the mirror mount off the KLR. This way, no one could complain about it only having one
Dude just straight the forks on a hydraulic press
Not sure that Dork did you any favors with this bike.
It’s a air screw adjustment problem
Do you have a link to the crank case pod filter??
Why did you change the dash ? ... and where / what did you order ?
The Christmas music is confusing me. Did I miss a couple of months off my life and not notice?
I mean, it wouldn't be the first time...
I'm trying to manifest colder weather. I'm playing Christmas music to get in the mood lol
Your just channelling your inner shadetree surgeon
These motorcycles are fine if you use them with some tact.
My Orion rxb125L is pretty sweet. Build quality was way better than I expected. Even came with fully adjustable suspension and electric \kick start. Just waiting on sumo wheel set now.
Might be gearing. My 125 goes 55 np and hit 63 downhill with a tailwind. I'm only 160lbs on a 160lb so could fector in.
Definitely interested in seeing you bore it out. I'm looking at the Daytona 190 with bore kit and 4v head. These Chinese are great for kick around bikes. The stock tires are trash.
I have an Apollo RXF Freeride with a Daytona 212 on street legal form bought it from Orión Powersports, and street legalized it with Dirt Legal.
@@carlitosbrigante6889 yeah I was going to do all the stuff myself till my annoying DMV was saying bonded title so I used streetohv, figured I didn't care about Texas plate for now anyways.
The hawk 250 has roughly 14 hp, the grom has like 9.7? Hawk has maybe 5-6 more HP than a grom, not twice as much LOL The hawk "250" is actually a 229 CC lol, and a sluggish, old one.. Also, yes, if you're on stock gearing it's designed for offroad torque, not top speed. My hawk has aftermarket gearing, chain, nibbi carb and exhaust and tops out at around 65-68 mph on flat road.(with my almost 300lb ass on it) I rarely go above 55-60ish though. Just doesn't feel right redlining nonstop lol
Plus I live off backroads where the speed limit is 45.
I had many problems on my bike but let me just tell you it’s definitely a bike to just experience on sure there were issues with it but idk man I like the bike
I wish I knew all this in 2020
Them sprocket robbing u of top speed
Thanks Spite, this was such a great video. Really enjoyed it mate.
You need a different air cleaner and or jetting and needle swap
Spite: "This shouldn't take long."
Valves: *chuckles*
Spite: "Welp..."
Been there done that lmaoooo
China + Motorcycle = NO
Get old xr250l or dr250s or klr250 or xt350 all better bikes... Even a European bike would be better than a Chinese bike... But then again CM moto is kool
I'm really enjoying these wrenching videos because I have a Magician that is falling apart faster than I can fix it. And I'm actually learning a lot more here since nobody on the interwebs or real life has heard of the Ricky Power Sports brand. That makes it really hard to find parts and knowledge.
Bro what. Ricky power sports isn't the brand, they're just the dealer. The parts you're looking for don't have to be "Ricky Powersports" magician parts, they can be ANY magifican parts, or even any parts that happen to fit your engine. Like if you find that the zongshen engine is the same as the magicians (highly likely) then you can be zongshen engine parts. Almost all of these modern Chinabikes use only 2 engines as far as I can tell anyway, Lifans or Lifan copies like zongshen.
They put those bolts on while the paint is still tacky.
Needs a smaller back sprocket!!!!!
Hi Spite. I’m stopping in Manor TX this week for a couple days. My son lives there. I’m starting a 4500 mile trip around the southwest this week, passing through Texas, then to California, and finally back home to Tennessee.
Would be fun to meet up and say “hi” for a minute. Let me know if that seems fun for you!
Bike has one fork. 2 fork tubes.
“ClearAnce” but who cares these days? Love your content btw
My photo editing suite doesn't have spell check lol.