What I love about your log buildings, is that they look natural and never fake looking. The natural look will always blend in with the outdoors and look like they were always there, very pleasing to the eye and soul. :)
We put synthetic chinking on our cabin which expands and contracts with our cabin logs. We have been in the cabin for 25 years and have not needed to patch it. I chinked inside and out. It looks great. I can understand using the more inexpensive concrete.
I'm not a fan of modern cement or perma chink. Both seal in moisture. Nails and wire will rust. Limestone pinning with NHL3.5 or NHL2.0 will breath and alow logs to dry inside. Just saying.
Noah you are the...MAN..I have learned so much from Your show thank you soooo Much. Also this is my second log home. New property new Trees and now Rocket Stoves At 66 years young I can't think of a more rewarding.time except maybe The Kids. I am building a horse camp For WILD MUSTANGS, TO TRAIN AND SELL TO MUSTANG LOVERS. SO TRULY THANKS...MY NEW FRIEND. TIM & Petey Petey is a 120 lb. Pit Bull buddy. Love
I always wanted to know this. Thanks for sharing. I have also always wondered, why so many ppl have termite damage to their homes, when some log cabins have stood since settler times, seemingly unaffected by termites.....
Cool! The interior of mine needs repair, its over 200 years old. The exterior has been covered a few times. has 3 extra inches, thick wood siding, Insulbrick, various roll coverings and today has cedar shake panels that I will remove at some point for metal. Would be nice to see the cabin, but I know its only still here because it was covered so many times.
Hi Noah, I chinked my cabin about like you did, but after several yrs. I had some shrinking of the logs or concrete so I ordered permachink paint, it just paints on and doesn't change anything except it seals the concrete and no more cracks. Also at the edges top and bottom it really adhieves to that really well. It has sand in it so no one can even tell its on . I did out and inside and its as beautiful today as it was 20 yrs. ago.Love your videos. Can you do one on tagging a log house? ty ,Kay
I’ve been looking for an answer to what the light material between the logs is for a while now. So glad to see this video & understand the process! Wonderful video & very informative.
Have you considered packing bundles of straw between the logs tightly end to end, cutting that flush, and cementing over that? One more thing to get from your land instead of the hardware store. Or would the straw be significantly less insulating than the foam you think?
My dad was into the buckskin mountain man circuit. The old fort in Fort Wayne IN got rebuilt back in the 80s. First thing dad said after he saw how the changing was done is that they done it wrong. Instead of it going from the underside of the top log to going over the top of the bottom one the hollow between the logs was filled then it went on the outside of both. Like dad said when it rains the water will get trapped between the chinking and the log when it runs down the side. Dad said in roughly 20 years it would need rebuild again. Dad was a history buff was in the living history reenactments he knew what he was talking about in most history subjects. When the contractors that was hired to rebuild the fort was informed about their mistake, I even heard them say, they stated that they were the experts and knew what they were doing. Part of the structure has been removed since then because of ro and not rebuilt due to cost. The experts didn't care they got paid and it made it between 15-20 years before needing re-done again
Thank you for your video Noah! I am a Boy Scout who picked up a doozy of an Eagle Project trying to rechink badly-done Indian Cabins at a National Park. I'm having a bit of trouble finding supplies... or anyone that knows really anything... I had a few questions I was wondering if you could help me with. My original recipe was right off the internet: Clay, Hydrated Lime, and Feed Salt. Hydrated Lime is expensive and hard-to-find, does pulverized garden lime work as well? I also noticed your recipe is much cheaper than mine, and the ingredients are way easier to find. What is the ratio of masonry sand to concrete? Do bulk-washed/quikrete products work for both? It would be a huge help if you could give me some technical info on this!
Hmm well. How this traditionally is done (here in Norway) is to debark a large pine tree in stripes. four stripes down the main trunk and then wait a few years. What happens is that the inner wood goes all the way out to the surface in the debarked areas. You then cut the tree and remove the outer wood with a "bile" (a broad-bladed ax). You end up with somewhat rectangular logs that can stand 1000 years without maintenance. Most older cabins here in Norway are made that way. They fit perfectly together and you don't need any concrete there! Would be bad for insulation too! What we use between the logs - if any space at all - is a moss named Hylocomium splendens (I don't know the English name). It was used for this purpose for a couple of thousand years at least in Scandinavia (and as toilet paper). No cement or mud or whatever is used here! Some of these pine log buildings have now stood for a 1000 years here in Norway and still doing fine. A bit of char now and then is fine too. I think your way of doing it is caused by English immigrants who don't know how to do it and made their own tradition. That's fine. I should add: In England, they do not have a tradition for log houses as we do in Scandinavia (because their forests are different without Spruce or Pine trees). So they kinda reinvented it after coming to North America. It is fine and seems to work if it is not cold. But do not try to build something like that in the high North in Canada, Scandinavia, or Siberia! But what do I know?
I have tried a small batch of the recipe i asked you about although it would work in remote areas it did not hold up structurally. I will be using your recipe . Thanks again
yeah I love that color that you use I really wish that you could make another video that’s more detailed so that people have a better chance to get a better job done on their cabin.
It's in the chinking academy, as there is a lot more than just color to give you that wow affect with a job done right that will last and not ruin the logs.
Hey Noah, I know that the kit log cabins where the wood is touching require annual maintenance to keep them from rotting away, but I was curious what your thoughts are on chinking, because essentially aren't you sealing off a section of the log with cement and therefore creating a space where the air can't circulate to dry it? And what type of insulation would you use? I assume the insulation would create even more of a damp space for mold/rot to set in? Thanks Noah, love your videos.
My dad has a 50 year old hunting camp made of logs way back in the woods across a lake. The 'chinking' is needing an upgrade. It was obviously done right the first time. I would like to go to the camp and do some work. So putting this on top is ok? I can just make a mixture of masonry sand and dyed cement and go on top of it and it will stick? There are some cracks...and a few pieces have fallen away...but other than that it is in pretty good shape.
For the method I recommend, you need to remove the old chinking and install wire lath and slather the mix on top of that. The details are covered in the Chinking Academy.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley I am looking at your Chinking Academy on-line course - does it include how to do it on round logs? And does it show the best way to remove old chinking? Love to take the course to learn more! Thanks!
Hey Noah, may I like to ask a question. Wondering if you used some hydraulik lime in the past and would like to know your experience especially about the moisture adsorbant between hydraulik lime and cement. Kind regards David
Thank you for the best video on the internet on "chinking!" Question. I'm doing a log veneer on my home in the high country of Colorado. How do I keep water from getting behind the cement chink so it doesn't rot out the wood from behind? Thank you so much! Jim
JW--Thanks for kind words. I don't do log veneers, so I am not the best one to answer your question on that one! My best general advice is that you always want water to wick away from the cabin/structure...not into it.
getting more and more excited to build my own little house. But it will have to wait for a while. Just got my third child. have to choose my priorities.
Great video Noah - very informative! Please advise, when moving to the inside, do you also have a top recess in chinking or can it be flush given indoors? Interested how much time you leave to cure/dry between outside chinking / internal foam / internal chinking? Thanks, Phil
Thanks Phil. On the inside you do not strictly have to recess the top for a slope. However, recessing the top and bottom will allow greater exposure of the log and visual interest. The cement needs to be dry to the touch. I'd recommend allowing it to cure for a week or so in dry weather as a general rule of thumb before insulating.
You make that look easy. The bottom 1/3 of the log cabin I'm looking to buy is made of concrete and big rocks like 8-20in brown rocks and white mortar or concrete maybe. I've seen abandoned houses with similar lower sections. Do u think they're solid? How long do they last. The fire place is similar but smaller brown rocks. Probably 3-6 in. It looks old style..I've never seen a house still lived in with similar building materials in my life.
Looking what you are doing propably you might need to look after interesting development on the cement industry around water / sun protection. So now days you got cement for just reparation which is almost like the reinforced with metal bars concrete or cement which is waterproof for roofs or cellars or you add on plasticification products for cement that are used for pools.
Absolutely great video! So much knowledge and wisdom thank you for your time. My son and I create projects when we go to the mountains to make a small cabin project of all natural materials is there a way to use chinking and what materials could we use. we were thinking mud and sand and water mixture. We understand it may only hold up for a couple years but maintenance will be required every year we are there. Thank you for your time and knowledge Sir. Travis
Can a cabin be built with smaller gaps between the logs, say 2 inches max maybe even 1 inch, so that the chinking area is reduced? Is there any downside to this?
I'm considering building a tiny cabin for my garden shed. I used to have a book by Charles Mcraven; he showed a method very similar to yours, with one key difference. He used the tip of his chainsaw to cut a groove on the underside of each log, approximate 1" in and 1" in depth. He nailed his lathe on the top of each log, but just let the lathe float in the log above. Would you consider this a good practice, allowing for a bit of movement, particularly when erecting green logs?
I'm not sure you'll give out your secret but may I ask what exactly is the cement recipe you use? I really appreciate your videos and like all master craftsmen you make it look easier than it actually is.
I use a brand of dyed cement called Flamingo C74 that I pick up at my local ready-mix dealer. I use this brand not because it is any better or worse than any other brand with regard to function... but this one offers me a consistent color that I find very pleasing.
You've got plenty of time.... I'm now 60 and ever so slowly gearing up to build my next one. Having land is a GREAT start... start working on those plans and gathering stone for your foundation.
Have you heard of the recipe for chinking that is 2 parts clay 1 part wood ashes and half part salt . I am building a survival cabin in the northern woods of michigan with red pine i harvested. I want to keep it as natural as possible would i need the mesh my gaps are only 1 inch wide .thanks great video
Hi John, Congrats on building a cabin! Yes indeed, there are as many recipes for chinking as there are cabins that have been built... I've heard many over the years. All of the natural methods work reasonably well for a while but require regular maintenance... my technique is the result of decades of observance and trial... it does and amazing job at keeping the weather out, while looking good, and so far... never needing maintenance, repair, nor replacement. If I had to choose between your recipe and modern synthetic chinking... I'd choose yours.
quick question- @7:00 when he mentions adding another layer of Diamond mesh, does he mean on the inside after the foam or another layer on the outside? .... im assuming inside lol 🤣
What are you using for a foam sealant? I’m in the process of chinking right now. I’m using 3 parts sand, 1/2 Portland cement, 1/2 part mortar type N. love your informative vids 👍
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley thanks for the reply. I’ve heard different thoughts on this for VOC’s, do you recommend regular expansion or low expansion like used in window frames / door frames?
I live in Florida and have lots of oak and pine trees are these type trees ok to build a cabin from?Thank You for sharing your video,I found it very informative!!!
I'm looking for a video to answer are your logs square (or taller rectangle) and the exterior chinking is angled for rain run-off to not cause rot or are the logs also cut with, for example, 1/4" top recess so water runs down the log to a drip edge so that water doesn't settle or run-in to the chinking or top of the log beneath it? Thank you for your work and your teaching
I like the use of the wire lath but when the chinking inevitably gets wet from rain is there a concern with the wire lath rusting and bleeding through the cement as I have seen happen so many times in bathrooms?
I was going to ask about using a "Cob" mix instead aka straw/mud or clay and even cow manure and/or hair etc. Seems like the original log cabins resorted to these methods in the past.
He says he doesn’t use a synthetic cement product for chinking but later goes on to say he uses a spray foam insulation. My understanding of cement with synthetic fibres is one of several options where a fibrous material is added for strength. I’m not saying it is a good choice for a log home/cabin but the rationalization against it based on aesthetics seemed a bit silly.
Thank you!!! Yes indeed... I will officially become an old man on Tuesday... I turn 60. I'm trying to be positive about it... here are my current thoughts... 1) I've avoided quick sand my entire life which I thought for certain I would have to deal with by now. 2) I have yet to be put in jail... it's not that I'm a bad person... but I've always felt that one day they would come after me. lol 3) I'm still alive. I made it this far... after witnessing so many wonderful young people pass away long before they could live their dreams out.
Psalm 90:12 So teach us to number our days, That we may gain a heart of wisdom. I think 60 is the new 40! I'm about 14 years behind you, so I'm wanting to see anyone older than me stay young, selfishly, I guess.
Thank you your video was very informative. I am new to this and wonder if chinking can be done in the winter or do you have to wait until warmer weather?
The mortar needs to be able to dry. If the "winter" allows for that in your area, you will be okay. Otherwise, you will need to wait until things warm up. :)
would you recommend this type of chinking for round logs as well? I`m planning to build log cabin tiny homes on wheels -would you recommend chinking them this way as well? Or do you think the chinking will crack up during transportation of the log cabins on wheels?
Hi Noah ........... Why is it you do not use a lime based mortar in place of the cement . This would allow the wood to breath just as lime wash and lime wash paints do . .............. ? Keep going . Love your videos and passion .
I guess for a variety of reasons.... my experience with lime mortar has been that it is not nearly as durable... it tends to bleed down the surface of the log which is not attractive and raises concern about durability. To be honest I have never seen lime mortar on a cabin that is older than five years old and that one didn't look very good. ... whereas I have seen over a thousand cemented one... and have done hundreds myself... all decades old. I don't want to ever be closed minded to the use of lime mortar... it is a nice product... (there are some things I have strong opinions about... but I'm just fine with lime mortar ... although many opinionated proponents of it often claim that cement will hurt the logs... which is something I've never seen when applied in such thin applications as this chinking is done.
Awesome video. A relative of mine owns a double wide trailer. It needs major repairs, and as I was watching this video, I was wondering if it would be possible to use this on the exterior. I know it would probably end up being cheaper to haul the thing away but.. I am curious. Also, My dream home is a log cabin, and you did say to start out small. Thanks.
I'd think about building a log cabin as an addition to the trailer... and then one day when the trailer has lived out it's life you would have a great cabin left to enjoy!
Excuse my ignorance but isn't chinking used to prevent exterior air infiltration into the interior space? Basically keeping the cold air out? I'm wondering about the chinking example in your video. It doesn't completely fill the space between the logs. Is chinking now only used aesthetically to hide insulation between logs these days and of course help slough water?
Chinking as i demonstrate here is to make an airtight seal with a thin layer of cement on metal lath. If using modern methods, then the space between the exterior and interior chinking would be filled with spray foam insulation to assist in keeping the structure air tight.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley thanks a million for replying.. im in Georgia and everyone says cedar does horrible down here.. i own a logging comoany and some the best water resistant wood is white oak.. we sale them to whiskey barrel makers.. so i was thinking that... or live oak.. because they build ships out of live oaks
Is it just a matter of taste/preference where someone may prefer a round log cabin with thinner chinking than the cabin shown here with squared logs and very thick/wide chinking?
I have had no issues with any cabin that I have built with the cement chinking on lath...but if you prefer to use lime for whatever reason, I say go for it!
Hi Noah Have a question about your favorite sealer I couldn’t asks a question under your sealer. My question is what’s your thoughts using it on womanize lumber? also can it be used on a deck and ramp without being slippery ? Hope you didn’t mind me asking here Thanks Andy
I like ur cabin but why did u go so far apart with ur logs I'm getting ready to do this in the next year and I'm studying what to do and how to do this correctly ur video was very helpful thks
I have watched others build log homes and one man stated the reason the gap was so large on his home was because of the type of logs he used. The longs were not universal in diameter so to scribe them the same would take to much material off to make them fit close together.
I have a log home,and every fall, the animals ( we live in the woods) chew through the Chinking to get to the warmth during winter. I have a 5 Gal. bucket of Chinking, but I'm not sure what to use as a backing to put it on? I've seen some video's where Styrofoam Insulation is used.Any ideas??
Only problem with your method is it will crack in many locations as it cures and as your house moves , lathe helps but does not eliminate cracking,… just quoted a 50 year old log cabin , 80% was cracked about every foot,…
Wow new viewer and I Love your style! I was wondering is there a reason for not leaving a rounded edge of log on the outside? is it more prone to rot that way? Just wondering if there was a way to keep the outside round.
Hey thank you! Rounded logs tend to be prone towards water leakage... Perhaps this video I created earlier might explain it... ua-cam.com/video/VN-kA_60_Xk/v-deo.html
Great video Noah, We live in Arizona's Sonoran Desert (North Phoenix) and have vertical logs called Viga Logs to hold up various roofs and some of them have very wide cracks in them (3/4"). Do you think filling them with your formula would work on a vertical unpainted log?_____ Or would just leaving them alone be fine?_____ I've been subscribed to you for quite a while now and really enjoy your work
Noah, Where can I find Flamingo C74? I'm in Northern Wisconsin and can't seem to find this exact product, is there a alternative that would be more available at a "Farm and Fleet or a Home Depot ect?"
Hi Tim. It's not available everywhere. I addressed this exact question at length in HHTV episode #70 You are definitely not the first person to ask. Thank you for following along!
Hi Noah! I love your videos, amazing and truly beautiful structures! Very inspiring. With regards to "wheelbarrel".... yeah no lol. Wheelbarrow (BA ROW) :)
Pretty much! They aren't exactly parallel because both the inside and outside applications slope slightly inward from bottom to top. We apply the diamond mesh wire lathing on the outside first, then apply a thin layer of cement. Allow it to cure for weeks, while checking for leaks. (wow, I made a rhyme... I'll have to remember that quote!) And then we apply a layer of foam on the inside of that exterior chinking, and then apply mesh and cement again this time on the inside. Think of an ice cream sandwich... or an Oreo cookie.
Hi Noah! I'm really loving the videos and the website. Obviously you have years of experience with the cement based chinking, but what is it that makes some builders (e.g. Mark Bowe at Barnwood Buliders) absolutely despise cement based products if you've had so much success with it? I know expansion and contraction of the logs seems to be the biggest issue so how does the cement stay adhered to the logs over the years? Many thanks!
Hi Noah, thanks for the in depth reply. It's kind of funny, there's actually a DIY promo spot that Mark is in where he bangs on the logs on the side of a cabin and says, "Don't. Use. Cement. Chinking." I live in Lewisburg, WV and am friends with Mark. I'm pretty certain he's not getting paid to promote silicone products. It's more likely that he's had to repair several log homes that have had cement applied improperly. I love all things wood, and I'm obsessed with timber frames and traditional log homes. One day I may build my own. I have to say that your work here has inspired me to begin thinking about doing this. Keep up the great work and best regards. -Ned
The stripes of light cement and dark wood look terrific. I absolutely love this look even indoors. There is no need for fancy wall treatment.
Agreed !
You never paint the walls some modern color that will all to soon go out of style or hang some dreaded wall paper designs
What I love about your log buildings, is that they look natural and never fake looking. The natural look will always blend in with the outdoors and look like they were always there, very pleasing to the eye and soul. :)
Simply put, I like your videos because you give people information, you know from years of experiance, to be the truth.
Thanks you w96725!
We put synthetic chinking on our cabin which expands and contracts with our cabin logs. We have been in the cabin for 25 years and have not needed to patch it. I chinked inside and out. It looks great. I can understand using the more inexpensive concrete.
I appreciate the feedback and comment, but that has not been my experience. I am sincerely glad it has worked out for you!
Did you use Perma chink brand ? We did our cabin on Oregon coast and it hasn't cracked or released in twenty five years
I'm not a fan of modern cement or perma chink. Both seal in moisture. Nails and wire will rust. Limestone pinning with NHL3.5 or NHL2.0 will breath and alow logs to dry inside. Just saying.
Noah you are the...MAN..I have learned so much from
Your show thank you soooo
Much.
Also this is my second log home. New property new
Trees and now Rocket Stoves
At 66 years young I can't think of a more rewarding.time except maybe
The Kids.
I am building a horse camp
For WILD MUSTANGS, TO TRAIN AND SELL TO MUSTANG LOVERS.
SO TRULY THANKS...MY NEW
FRIEND.
TIM & Petey
Petey is a 120 lb. Pit Bull buddy.
Love
I always wanted to know this. Thanks for sharing. I have also always wondered, why so many ppl have termite damage to their homes, when some log cabins have stood since settler times, seemingly unaffected by termites.....
Cool! The interior of mine needs repair, its over 200 years old. The exterior has been covered a few times. has 3 extra inches, thick wood siding, Insulbrick, various roll coverings and today has cedar shake panels that I will remove at some point for metal. Would be nice to see the cabin, but I know its only still here because it was covered so many times.
Hi Noah, I chinked my cabin about like you did, but after several yrs. I had some shrinking of the logs or concrete so I ordered permachink paint, it just paints on and doesn't change anything except it seals the concrete and no more cracks. Also at the edges top and bottom it really adhieves to that really well. It has sand in it so no one can even tell its on . I did out and inside and its as beautiful today as it was 20 yrs. ago.Love your videos. Can you do one on tagging a log house? ty ,Kay
Beautiful art of work! so relaxing to watch.
Thank you! Cheers!
My favorite video so far! I look forward to trying (and probably cussin' a bit!) every step of building my little cabin.
I’ve been looking for an answer to what the light material between the logs is for a while now. So glad to see this video & understand the process! Wonderful video & very informative.
Glad I could help! There is a video playlist called "chinking" that covers all that I have done on chinking on the channel.
Have you considered packing bundles of straw between the logs tightly end to end, cutting that flush, and cementing over that? One more thing to get from your land instead of the hardware store. Or would the straw be significantly less insulating than the foam you think?
These videos are very high quality. Good job
My dad was into the buckskin mountain man circuit. The old fort in Fort Wayne IN got rebuilt back in the 80s. First thing dad said after he saw how the changing was done is that they done it wrong. Instead of it going from the underside of the top log to going over the top of the bottom one the hollow between the logs was filled then it went on the outside of both. Like dad said when it rains the water will get trapped between the chinking and the log when it runs down the side. Dad said in roughly 20 years it would need rebuild again. Dad was a history buff was in the living history reenactments he knew what he was talking about in most history subjects. When the contractors that was hired to rebuild the fort was informed about their mistake, I even heard them say, they stated that they were the experts and knew what they were doing. Part of the structure has been removed since then because of ro and not rebuilt due to cost. The experts didn't care they got paid and it made it between 15-20 years before needing re-done again
Thank you for your video Noah! I am a Boy Scout who picked up a doozy of an Eagle Project trying to rechink badly-done Indian Cabins at a National Park. I'm having a bit of trouble finding supplies... or anyone that knows really anything... I had a few questions I was wondering if you could help me with. My original recipe was right off the internet: Clay, Hydrated Lime, and Feed Salt. Hydrated Lime is expensive and hard-to-find, does pulverized garden lime work as well?
I also noticed your recipe is much cheaper than mine, and the ingredients are way easier to find. What is the ratio of masonry sand to concrete? Do bulk-washed/quikrete products work for both? It would be a huge help if you could give me some technical info on this!
Hmm well. How this traditionally is done (here in Norway) is to debark a large pine tree in stripes. four stripes down the main trunk and then wait a few years. What happens is that the inner wood goes all the way out to the surface in the debarked areas. You then cut the tree and remove the outer wood with a "bile" (a broad-bladed ax). You end up with somewhat rectangular logs that can stand 1000 years without maintenance. Most older cabins here in Norway are made that way. They fit perfectly together and you don't need any concrete there! Would be bad for insulation too! What we use between the logs - if any space at all - is a moss named Hylocomium splendens (I don't know the English name). It was used for this purpose for a couple of thousand years at least in Scandinavia (and as toilet paper). No cement or mud or whatever is used here! Some of these pine log buildings have now stood for a 1000 years here in Norway and still doing fine. A bit of char now and then is fine too. I think your way of doing it is caused by English immigrants who don't know how to do it and made their own tradition. That's fine.
I should add: In England, they do not have a tradition for log houses as we do in Scandinavia (because their forests are different without Spruce or Pine trees). So they kinda reinvented it after coming to North America. It is fine and seems to work if it is not cold. But do not try to build something like that in the high North in Canada, Scandinavia, or Siberia! But what do I know?
Thanks for a great comment Fred! Cheers to you and the other "vikings" in Norway!
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley Sorry I was a bit cocky in my reply above. But I think there is a little bit of truth to it.
I have tried a small batch of the recipe i asked you about although it would work in remote areas it did not hold up structurally. I will be using your recipe . Thanks again
Never knew how that was done. Thanks.
I don't think it is. I think that's just how he does it. His wood looks 200 years old already.
Thank you! Been chinking since I was born… but you did a way better job . Thanks
yeah I love that color that you use I really wish that you could make another video that’s more detailed so that people have a better chance to get a better job done on their cabin.
It's in the chinking academy, as there is a lot more than just color to give you that wow affect with a job done right that will last and not ruin the logs.
Really enjoyed your video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Hey Noah, I know that the kit log cabins where the wood is touching require annual maintenance to keep them from rotting away, but I was curious what your thoughts are on chinking, because essentially aren't you sealing off a section of the log with cement and therefore creating a space where the air can't circulate to dry it? And what type of insulation would you use? I assume the insulation would create even more of a damp space for mold/rot to set in? Thanks Noah, love your videos.
My dad has a 50 year old hunting camp made of logs way back in the woods across a lake. The 'chinking' is needing an upgrade. It was obviously done right the first time. I would like to go to the camp and do some work. So putting this on top is ok? I can just make a mixture of masonry sand and dyed cement and go on top of it and it will stick? There are some cracks...and a few pieces have fallen away...but other than that it is in pretty good shape.
For the method I recommend, you need to remove the old chinking and install wire lath and slather the mix on top of that. The details are covered in the Chinking Academy.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley I am looking at your Chinking Academy on-line course - does it include how to do it on round logs? And does it show the best way to remove old chinking? Love to take the course to learn more! Thanks!
Nice job mate. I’m a builder in Australia and we don’t have this type of building here as the termites would eat it within a couple of years.
Hey Noah, may I like to ask a question. Wondering if you used some
hydraulik lime in the past and would like to know your experience
especially about the moisture adsorbant between hydraulik lime and cement.
Kind regards David
Thank you for the best video on the internet on "chinking!" Question. I'm doing a log veneer on my home in the high country of Colorado. How do I keep water from getting behind the cement chink so it doesn't rot out the wood from behind? Thank you so much! Jim
JW--Thanks for kind words. I don't do log veneers, so I am not the best one to answer your question on that one! My best general advice is that you always want water to wick away from the cabin/structure...not into it.
Do you have a video where you explain the lathe wire installation process in more detail?
I have done so in my Log Cabin Academy, and will provide information on just the wiring and chinking in the upcoming Chinking Academy.
More detail, come on now, aluminum nails, galvanized mesh- lathe, pound in nails apply mud, ,,..
In the marine industry cement ballast in Wood boats and ships has proved to create a alkaline environment preventing or slowing rot and insect damage.
getting more and more excited to build my own little house. But it will have to wait for a while. Just got my third child. have to choose my priorities.
Whew!... you've got your hands full for sure! A WONDERFUL period of life!
Yes indeed full hands and hopefully I can use those extra two hands in a few years
have you broken ground yet, or still waiting for someday?
Great video Noah - very informative! Please advise, when moving to the inside, do you also have a top recess in chinking or can it be flush given indoors? Interested how much time you leave to cure/dry between outside chinking / internal foam / internal chinking? Thanks, Phil
Thanks Phil. On the inside you do not strictly have to recess the top for a slope. However, recessing the top and bottom will allow greater exposure of the log and visual interest. The cement needs to be dry to the touch. I'd recommend allowing it to cure for a week or so in dry weather as a general rule of thumb before insulating.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley thank you Noah!
You make that look easy. The bottom 1/3 of the log cabin I'm looking to buy is made of concrete and big rocks like 8-20in brown rocks and white mortar or concrete maybe. I've seen abandoned houses with similar lower sections. Do u think they're solid? How long do they last. The fire place is similar but smaller brown rocks. Probably 3-6 in. It looks old style..I've never seen a house still lived in with similar building materials in my life.
Excellent summary man
Glad you liked it!
Isn’t the cement going to crack when the log expands and contracts?
Apparently not.
Yes and it will not your wood
Looking what you are doing propably you might need to look after interesting development on the cement industry around water / sun protection. So now days you got cement for just reparation which is almost like the reinforced with metal bars concrete or cement which is waterproof for roofs or cellars or you add on plasticification products for cement that are used for pools.
Thank you so much, I'll be watching all the videos,
Is the wood sloped in any way to direct water outward? ORDid you just cut the logs level?
Absolutely great video! So much knowledge and wisdom thank you for your time. My son and I create projects when we go to the mountains to make a small cabin project of all natural materials is there a way to use chinking and what materials could we use. we were thinking mud and sand and water mixture. We understand it may only hold up for a couple years but maintenance will be required every year we are there. Thank you for your time and knowledge Sir.
Travis
looks like midwest snips...those are my favorite ones
Can a cabin be built with smaller gaps between the logs, say 2 inches max maybe even 1 inch, so that the chinking area is reduced? Is there any downside to this?
I'm considering building a tiny cabin for my garden shed.
I used to have a book by Charles Mcraven; he showed a method very similar to yours, with one key difference. He used the tip of his chainsaw to cut a groove on the underside of each log, approximate 1" in and 1" in depth. He nailed his lathe on the top of each log, but just let the lathe float in the log above.
Would you consider this a good practice, allowing for a bit of movement, particularly when erecting green logs?
Skilled with that trowel
Can't find video 28. Does the type of nail matter? What kind of foam do you use ?
I'm not sure you'll give out your secret but may I ask what exactly is the cement recipe you use? I really appreciate your videos and like all master craftsmen you make it look easier than it actually is.
I use a brand of dyed cement called Flamingo C74 that I pick up at my local ready-mix dealer.
I use this brand not because it is any better or worse than any other brand with regard to function... but this one offers me a consistent color that I find very pleasing.
I am about to take on the endeavor of chinking our new log cabin. What is the ratio of sand to cement that you use?
outstanding work. Thx.
I have dreamed of a log home all my life,I am now 50years old ,Own my own land but have yet to have a beautiful log home.
You've got plenty of time.... I'm now 60 and ever so slowly gearing up to build my next one. Having land is a GREAT start... start working on those plans and gathering stone for your foundation.
Have you heard of the recipe for chinking that is 2 parts clay 1 part wood ashes and half part salt . I am building a survival cabin in the northern woods of michigan with red pine i harvested. I want to keep it as natural as possible would i need the mesh my gaps are only 1 inch wide .thanks great video
Hi John, Congrats on building a cabin! Yes indeed, there are as many recipes for chinking as there are cabins that have been built... I've heard many over the years. All of the natural methods work reasonably well for a while but require regular maintenance... my technique is the result of decades of observance and trial... it does and amazing job at keeping the weather out, while looking good, and so far... never needing maintenance, repair, nor replacement.
If I had to choose between your recipe and modern synthetic chinking... I'd choose yours.
quick question- @7:00 when he mentions adding another layer of Diamond mesh, does he mean on the inside after the foam or another layer on the outside? .... im assuming inside lol 🤣
Do you put anything on the logs to seal the logs?
Clinking is the hard filler Dobbin is the soft material
Nice explanation.!!! I wanna ask if you can also use this chinking formula for round logs gap. It is way thinner gap
Thanks for this
My pleasure!
What are you using for a foam sealant?
I’m in the process of chinking right now.
I’m using 3 parts sand, 1/2 Portland cement, 1/2 part mortar type N.
love your informative vids 👍
I have no specific brand recommendation on the foam sealant..in my experience they all work about the same.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley thanks for the reply.
I’ve heard different thoughts on this for VOC’s, do you recommend regular expansion or low expansion like used in window frames / door frames?
I live in Florida and have lots of oak and pine trees are these type trees ok to build a cabin from?Thank You for sharing your video,I found it very informative!!!
I would imagine so!
I'm looking for a video to answer are your logs square (or taller rectangle) and the exterior chinking is angled for rain run-off to not cause rot or are the logs also cut with, for example, 1/4" top recess so water runs down the log to a drip edge so that water doesn't settle or run-in to the chinking or top of the log beneath it?
Thank you for your work and your teaching
I like the use of the wire lath but when the chinking inevitably gets wet from rain is there a concern with the wire lath rusting and bleeding through the cement as I have seen happen so many times in bathrooms?
I thought concrete was porous and would absorb moisture?
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Noah, can these homes be built over a basement? Probably a silly question but we do not want another house on a crawl.
Awesome Video!!
Thank you!
You were very informative about chinking, but instead of a trowel can you use a big piping bag?
My only recommendation is with a trowel.
How long do yo have to let the logs settle and shrink before you add the chinking?
2:00 I appreciate that, Im of the same lines of thinking.
Hi. Can you share the brand and model of the snips you are using? They look like they work well.
This is a great video
Thank you!
My house was built in 1850. It was chinked with a mud straw mixture
I was going to ask about using a "Cob" mix instead aka straw/mud or clay and even cow manure and/or hair etc. Seems like the original log cabins resorted to these methods in the past.
They used whatever was available
Thx!
He says he doesn’t use a synthetic cement product for chinking but later goes on to say he uses a spray foam insulation. My understanding of cement with synthetic fibres is one of several options where a fibrous material is added for strength. I’m not saying it is a good choice for a log home/cabin but the rationalization against it based on aesthetics seemed a bit silly.
Glad to see you back! Isn't your birthday this month???!! Happy Birthday!
Thank you!!!
Yes indeed... I will officially become an old man on Tuesday... I turn 60.
I'm trying to be positive about it... here are my current thoughts...
1) I've avoided quick sand my entire life which I thought for certain I would have to deal with by now.
2) I have yet to be put in jail... it's not that I'm a bad person... but I've always felt that one day they would come after me. lol
3) I'm still alive. I made it this far... after witnessing so many wonderful young people pass away long before they could live their dreams out.
Psalm 90:12 So teach us to number our days,
That we may gain a heart of wisdom.
I think 60 is the new 40! I'm about 14 years behind you, so I'm wanting to see anyone older than me stay young, selfishly, I guess.
I was 46 years old yesterday... lol... that's how fast the years go by. So, hold on.
Thank you your video was very informative. I am new to this and wonder if chinking can be done in the winter or do you have to wait until warmer weather?
The mortar needs to be able to dry. If the "winter" allows for that in your area, you will be okay. Otherwise, you will need to wait until things warm up. :)
Thank i have some land and want to build a house from the cedar trees on the land
would you recommend this type of chinking for round logs as well? I`m planning to build log cabin tiny homes on wheels -would you recommend chinking them this way as well? Or do you think the chinking will crack up during transportation of the log cabins on wheels?
I do not advocate for round logs on log homes. The chinking will crack as you hit bumps and other terrain features in a mobile log home.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley our log home is over 100 years old and has round logs. Do you chink the same way?
Is it necessary to angle the chinking on the interior logs as well? Or can one make it all flush with the surface? Thanks in advance.
As I understand, the angle is only for shedding water. No need to angle on the inside.
Hi Noah ........... Why is it you do not use a lime based mortar in place of the cement . This would allow the wood to breath just as lime wash and lime wash paints do . .............. ? Keep going . Love your videos and passion .
I guess for a variety of reasons.... my experience with lime mortar has been that it is not nearly as durable... it tends to bleed down the surface of the log which is not attractive and raises concern about durability. To be honest I have never seen lime mortar on a cabin that is older than five years old and that one didn't look very good. ... whereas I have seen over a thousand cemented one... and have done hundreds myself... all decades old.
I don't want to ever be closed minded to the use of lime mortar... it is a nice product... (there are some things I have strong opinions about... but I'm just fine with lime mortar ... although many opinionated proponents of it often claim that cement will hurt the logs... which is something I've never seen when applied in such thin applications as this chinking is done.
Thanks Noah . Appreciated
Awesome video. A relative of mine owns a double wide trailer. It needs major repairs, and as I was watching this video, I was wondering if it would be possible to use this on the exterior. I know it would probably end up being cheaper to haul the thing away but.. I am curious. Also, My dream home is a log cabin, and you did say to start out small. Thanks.
I'd think about building a log cabin as an addition to the trailer... and then one day when the trailer has lived out it's life you would have a great cabin left to enjoy!
Handmade Houses with Noah Bradley Thanks Noah, somehow I thought that's what you would say, because it makes sense.
Excuse my ignorance but isn't chinking used to prevent exterior air infiltration into the interior space? Basically keeping the cold air out? I'm wondering about the chinking example in your video. It doesn't completely fill the space between the logs. Is chinking now only used aesthetically to hide insulation between logs these days and of course help slough water?
Chinking as i demonstrate here is to make an airtight seal with a thin layer of cement on metal lath. If using modern methods, then the space between the exterior and interior chinking would be filled with spray foam insulation to assist in keeping the structure air tight.
Can you use white oak logs to build a cabin? If so how well do they hold up?
Yes, they are exceptional and hold up quite well!
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley thanks a million for replying.. im in Georgia and everyone says cedar does horrible down here.. i own a logging comoany and some the best water resistant wood is white oak.. we sale them to whiskey barrel makers.. so i was thinking that... or live oak.. because they build ships out of live oaks
The Barnbuilders on TV disagree with using cement. They use stuff that can move/flex. That sounds like a better idea.
Is it just a matter of taste/preference where someone may prefer a round log cabin with thinner chinking than the cabin shown here with squared logs and very thick/wide chinking?
Hello, I dont want to offend or criticize. Why is there such a large gap between the logs?
What not use Lime mortar it crack will cure and seals,it allows the walls to breed .
I have had no issues with any cabin that I have built with the cement chinking on lath...but if you prefer to use lime for whatever reason, I say go for it!
How about a tour video of the log cabin.
Hi Noah
Have a question about your favorite sealer I couldn’t asks a question under your sealer.
My question is what’s your thoughts using it on womanize lumber? also can it be used on a deck and ramp without being slippery ?
Hope you didn’t mind me asking here
Thanks Andy
You could but it might be slippery. You should experiment with a small section of wood and see what occurs. YMMV.
Always costs less to do it right than do it over.
I like ur cabin but why did u go so far apart with ur logs I'm getting ready to do this in the next year and I'm studying what to do and how to do this correctly ur video was very helpful thks
I have watched others build log homes and one man stated the reason the gap was so large on his home was because of the type of logs he used. The longs were not universal in diameter so to scribe them the same would take to much material off to make them fit close together.
I have a log home,and every fall, the animals ( we live in the woods) chew through the Chinking to get to the warmth during winter. I have a 5 Gal. bucket of Chinking, but I'm not sure what to use as a backing to put it on? I've seen some video's where Styrofoam Insulation is used.Any ideas??
Only problem with your method is it will crack in many locations as it cures and as your house moves , lathe helps but does not eliminate cracking,… just quoted a 50 year old log cabin , 80% was cracked about every foot,…
What about the natural sinking and compressing of the logs that takes place over the first few years? No risk of the concrete cracking?
That is why you age your timber first for a couple years, so it has already done that when you move to construction
Informative. Thank you
Wow new viewer and I Love your style! I was wondering is there a reason for not leaving a rounded edge of log on the outside? is it more prone to rot that way? Just wondering if there was a way to keep the outside round.
Hey thank you!
Rounded logs tend to be prone towards water leakage... Perhaps this video I created earlier might explain it... ua-cam.com/video/VN-kA_60_Xk/v-deo.html
Great video Noah, We live in Arizona's Sonoran Desert (North Phoenix) and have vertical logs called Viga Logs to hold up various roofs and some of them have very wide cracks in them (3/4"). Do you think filling them with your formula would work on a vertical unpainted log?_____
Or would just leaving them alone be fine?_____
I've been subscribed to you for quite a while now and really enjoy your work
Noah, Where can I find Flamingo C74? I'm in Northern Wisconsin and can't seem to find this exact product, is there a alternative that would be more available at a "Farm and Fleet or a Home Depot ect?"
Hi Tim. It's not available everywhere. I addressed this exact question at length in HHTV episode #70 You are definitely not the first person to ask. Thank you for following along!
So there is air space behind that diamond mesh? Is that a good thing? Is it supposed to be airtight to the outside? Or it doesn't matter?
Hi Noah! I love your videos, amazing and truly beautiful structures! Very inspiring.
With regards to "wheelbarrel".... yeah no lol. Wheelbarrow (BA ROW) :)
Do you have to let the logs dry out for a couple years before you can build so they don't shrink?
Noah...Can our western alder be used in a cabin? If so, would you expect any longevity...
Is the foam sealant between the outer and inner chinking the spray in kind? Would any type of insulation be acceptable such as fiberglass?
I would think fiberglass would work fine.
So, am I getting it right , that there are 2 parallel strips of lathe in the joint?
Pretty much!
They aren't exactly parallel because both the inside and outside applications slope slightly inward from bottom to top.
We apply the diamond mesh wire lathing on the outside first, then apply a thin layer of cement.
Allow it to cure for weeks, while checking for leaks. (wow, I made a rhyme... I'll have to remember that quote!)
And then we apply a layer of foam on the inside of that exterior chinking, and then apply mesh and cement again this time on the inside.
Think of an ice cream sandwich... or an Oreo cookie.
Hi Noah! I'm really loving the videos and the website. Obviously you have years of experience with the cement based chinking, but what is it that makes some builders (e.g. Mark Bowe at Barnwood Buliders) absolutely despise cement based products if you've had so much success with it? I know expansion and contraction of the logs seems to be the biggest issue so how does the cement stay adhered to the logs over the years? Many thanks!
Hi Noah, thanks for the in depth reply. It's kind of funny, there's actually a DIY promo spot that Mark is in where he bangs on the logs on the side of a cabin and says, "Don't. Use. Cement. Chinking." I live in Lewisburg, WV and am friends with Mark. I'm pretty certain he's not getting paid to promote silicone products. It's more likely that he's had to repair several log homes that have had cement applied improperly. I love all things wood, and I'm obsessed with timber frames and traditional log homes. One day I may build my own. I have to say that your work here has inspired me to begin thinking about doing this. Keep up the great work and best regards. -Ned
Is yer cement a blend of portland and masonry cement or straight portland? Thanks!