The Diamond Pattern Cutting Board
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 січ 2023
- The diamond pattern, or jester's board as I like to call it, is an elegant but whimsical cutting board made from hard maple and walnut. This approach is the easiest way that I have found to replicate a diamond pattern. With fewer cuts and clamps, this is a project that anyone can tackle.
Backing Music...
"Front Porch Blues" by Chris Haugen - Навчання та стиль
Excellent, you explained your steps very well. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
Necessary but only before the final grit. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
It’s so nice to see you back in the shop. I follow you and continue to follow. Always look forward to your videos and posts. Your cutting board designs are second to none. Your explanation to detail is what brought me to your channel. Happy Holidays…
As always, thanks for watching the video and commenting. I’m traveling a bit right now and won’t be back in the shop until late January but check out any videographer you may have missed. Many thanks!
That's fantastic. Thanks for sharing your time and skills.👍
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
I raise the grain only on last sanding. I like your clear presentations
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Spraying between each has always been my approach, but have watched many videos where they did no raising, or only before the last grit. I think ultimately you end up with a nice glasslike surface by raising the grain between each, but maybe there's no difference in the end? I used to actually rinse the board in between grits but found that was overkill and definitely lengthened the process quite a bit. The spray option tends to dry in about 30 minutes so it's not too bad of a delay.
I've found that wetting the end grain does little to actually "hair" the wood since there is little growth or shrinkage lengthwise. I do use a moist rag before the last sanding. However, I do "hair" the wood between each sanding in the finished faces of the boards. The reason being is that the moisture helps the wood fibers curl up - since none of the fibers are laying perfectly parallel to the surface. If you don't, the moisture in the finish will cause the fiber to curl - roughening the surface. Water is cheaper and easier to use. The reason for using the term "hair" is because it is like real hair. When wet it looks nice when combed/brushed. But after drying it curls/frizzes. I've only been using this technique since 1968.
Thanks for watchin g the video and commenting. I appreciate your detailed explanation and expertise. I was barely a toddler in '68. I've tried a couple of different techniques for sanding and raising. I do think a lot of it has to do with the grain orientation at the end and could easily see not raising the grain in many circumstances. I've definitely gotten away from fully rinsing a project and just using a spray bottle filled with water to raise the grain. I had never tried the damp cloth, but will definitely consider it in the future. Many thanks for your comment!
Beautiful piece!
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
Great work, sir!! I'm subscribed
Thanks for watching the video, commenting and subscribing. I appreciate it!
I only raise the grain before final grit. Raising after every grit adds nothing but work and time. For finish, try 100% tung oil cut 50/50 with orange oil solvent; two coats. No more re-oolong every six months.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Appreciate you sharing your process. I've long been on the fence on raising the grain between each grit.
Very nice. Quality you can be proud of
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
I really like that pattern!👌 I’ll have to give it a try! I spray water on my last sanding! Thank you for sharing and glad to see you back! 👍🏻
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Spraying between each has always been my approach, but have watched many videos where they did no raising, or only before the last grit. I think ultimately you end up with a nice glasslike surface by raising the grain between each, but maybe there's no difference in the end?
@@DEJaegerWoodworking thanks for the info! 👍🏻 Have a nice week!
@@billm4560 Definitely give this one a go. If you don't mind sharing, send pics to: dejaegerwoodworking@gmail.com
Great work, cool pattern. I'll give that one a try. I raise the grain only for the last two grits. I have heard of popping between all of the grits so I tried that but found no appreciable difference vs popping last two grits only. And popping between all of the grits lengthens the process quite a bit.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Spraying between each has always been my approach, but have watched many videos where they did no raising, or only before the last grit. I think ultimately you end up with a nice glasslike surface by raising the grain between each, but maybe there's no difference in the end? I used to actually rinse the board in between grits but found that was overkill and definitely lengthened the process quite a bit. The spray option tends to dry in about 30 minutes so it's not too bad of a delay.
Very nice! I usually continue raising the grain until the water doesn't cause any 'furries'. I've found that a fixed number isn't always right, different species and even different boards of the same species seem to vary in the number of times required.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate you sharing your sanding process.
Spritz before last sanding.
Thanks for watching the video and for your contribution to the raising the grain question.
Raising the grain. I will raise the grain after 320g 400g 600g the lower grits will cut regardless the higher grits will tend to fill fine dust into the veins of the wood. If you are doing long grain no need to pop the grain as the grain will not stand up.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it!
Interesting technique, would an easier method be to make an over-size checkerboard and cut off the corners? The off-cuts could then be used to make some nice matching coasters, so you'd even have less waste.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I did consider that option but was a little concerned about the waste I guess. I was trying to figure out a way to build the checkerboard pattern a little offset so that there would be less cutoff, but then it would have been a clamping nightmare. In the end this was the "easiest" way that I can determine to make the board. However, there's always more than one way to skin a cat as they say.
@@DEJaegerWoodworking I just realised, you could even glue the corner off cuts together along the short sides to make matching board of the same size, if you did that you'd have literally no waste.
@@LunchThyme That would require some awful good precision, but yes, you're right.
Beautiful job! Raise the grain between each grit!
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. That's always been my approach, but have watched many videos where they did no raising, or only before the last grit. I think ultimately you end up with a nice glasslike surface by raising the grain between each, but maybe there's no difference in the end.
I only raise the grain before the final grit. I have tried after every grit and it doesn't seem to make an appreciable difference considering I'm not trying for a gloss finish for the final product anyway
Thanks for watching the video and for your input on your procedure for raising the grain.
what kind of table sander do you use, open or closed, if open any issues. I don't have a lot of room for one in my shop. thanks for the video will be giving it a shot.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. The sander is a Jet 16-32. This model can take projects up to 16 inches wide, and it is open ended, so you can turn the project around and sand another 16 inches for a total of 32 inches. I really haven't had any projects wider than 16 inches so I really can't comment on turning a piece through it. However, I've been very happy with it as a drum sander overall.
Quais madeiras o sr. usou? Seria muito enriquecedor se vc colocasse na descrição o tipo de madeira que vc usa nos trabalhos.
Obrigado por assistir o vídeo, e pelo seu comentário. A madeira utilizada é bordo duro e nogueira. Os comprimentos iniciais são 18 polegadas de comprimento x 2 polegadas de largura x 1 polegada de espessura, ou 45,72 cm x 5,08 cm x 2,54 cm.
Is that a ridgid table saw? Looks like mine. Mine lacks 1 degree from going 45. Hope it doesn't affect it to much
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Yes, it's a Ridgid table saw. I've never had the 1 degree issue you're describing.
@@DEJaegerWoodworking makes me wonder if maybe it was off square by 1 degree to start with. I checked it with speed square while back.
Curious to know what grit you use on your drum sander.... And I only water pop at 220 grit with my ROS, then lightly hand sand with 320 to finish my boards.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Typically I have 100 grit installed on the drum sander but depending on the grain orientation of the project may go as low as 80 or as high as 120.
As someone who can't cut a straight line with a table saw, I really admire your work. But what happened to your laser logo on this board. It showed you adding it, but when you added the feet, it wasn't on that side ... and when you turned it over to do the final wipe down, I didn't see it there either.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. The logo is there, but it's really hard to see because most of it is in the dark wood of the triangles.
New to woodworking and have a question. Why is it necessary to use water to lift the grain between sandings?
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. Raising the grain helps with a smoother finish by lifting the fibers to be sanded back down. Some woodworkers do this between each grit of sandpaper and others only lift the grain before the last grit of sandpaper. Then, some don't do it at all. It really depends on the smoothness of the surface that you're going for in your project.
Can you answer a question about problems that im having wit endgrain cutting boards?
Possibly, what's up?
@@DEJaegerWoodworking I'm a woodworker that makes cutting boards to sell at craft shows and the like. In the past few years I've noticed that with the end grain boards that they will curl in the heat/sun. Why is this happening with my end grain boards. And is there any way to fix this. One idea I've been thinking about is to get the board to settle back and then to add a border to act as a brace. Can you add any ideas or thoughts as to what's going on and to any solutions? Thanks
@@laff000 Are all of the pieces in an endgrain arrangement on the board? What about the moisture content of the initial wood that you are using? Is it kiln dried? I think a border wouldn't likely solve the issue as it should really be in an endgrain alignment as well.
@@DEJaegerWoodworking all kiln dried. Walnut, maple, cherry. Yes on the arrangement.
Can you expand on the heat/sun issue? Are these new boards that you have out in the sun on display at a craft show? If so, then it might help to alternate sides exposed to the sun. It doesn't take a lot to dry out one side of a cutting board which would cause the cupping you're describing. It's why I always tell customers to expose both sides of the cutting board to water when cleaning instead of just rinsing and cleaning the dirty surface and placing them on edge to dry. You may also want to display your boards on edge rather than laying them flat (in addition to alternating the sides exposed to the sun). Lastly, even though you have likely treated your finished boards with oil and conditioner, if they are being exposed to sun for several craft shows then you may want to keep them oiled on a regular basis to assist in helping to prevent the warping/cupping.
Raise the grain last grit..just my opinion/experience
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I’ve had a lot of viewers indicate the same. Thanks!
You forgot to say, first get $50,000 dollars worth of woodworking machines and tools.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate it! Oh, I’m a very small shop and probably don’t have more than $5000 invested in larger power tools.
We'll see if it takes high dollar tools to make this. Mine are under 2g
@@truthh8322 send me pics if you finally project. It’s good to get perspective on what tools folks have available and what they do to adapt the project to those tools. Dejaegerwoodworking@gmail.com
@@DEJaegerWoodworking I'm gonna try a diamond pattern down the middle of mine first. See if it comes out good or not. I'll keep ya posted
Do you watch home improvement videos and say "you forgot to say, first you gotta have the money to buy a house"? Also a $680 Rigid table saw is hardly conducive to needing $50,000 of equipment. That $1400 drum sander is the most expensive thing we saw, and that isn't even necessary, but extremely useful.
Precision does not mean accurate.
Context?
@DEJaegerWoodworking Example, you can have a watch that is accurate, or it always tells you a time that is very close to being correct but always slightly different. It is accurate, but not precise. I have a watch that always tells me a time that is 3 minutes slow, but exactly 3 minutes slow every time. My watch is inaccurate but very precise. Calibration can generally cure inaccuracy, but no amount of calibration can cure an imprecise instrument. In your situation, you wanted the position of the pieces to be as accurately positioned as possible for glue-up. If your drum sander randomly changed its depth of cut, it would turn out imprecise pieces that no matter how you tried, you could never line them up as accurately as you wished. An accurate watch tells you many little lies, but a precise one tells you the same big or little lie every time. The size of this lie could be improved by calibration, depending on how it's made.
Precision is a result of quality components and manufacturing skills. It produces results that are repeatable. When precise manufacturing starts deviating, you know something has changed: parts have worn, operators change their procedures or attention, or maybe even a change in temperature causes a change in machine clearances, etc.
@@johnrains8409Thanks for your clarification.
Алкаш.😂Я думал он доску строит, а он самогон гонит.
Спасибо за просмотр видео и комментарий. Я подумал, что мне нужно разместить на разделочной доске что-то кроме фруктов и овощей.
@@DEJaegerWoodworking Да это шутка была, я не против алкоголя. Красиво смотрится.