1970 Boss 302 Cowl Panel Area
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Possibilites by Jay Someday / jaysomeday
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Come Along by Jay Someday / jaysomeday
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported - CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/-come-a...
Music promoted by Audio Library • Come Along - Jay Somed...
Looking good. Nice work.
Outstanding job on surface prepping the new cowl panel! So whoever buys this one will not have to worry about water leaks into the interior for many years, if ever! You refab these old mustangs to "better than new condition" in many cases. I have one of those $30.00 plastic covers on my old 1965 coupe to prevent rain from entering the cowl panel area through those vents. Purists will vomit then they see these but I am not aiming for a perfect restoration and find this $30.00 plastic cover preferable to hundreds of dollars of front end disassembly to install a replacement cowl. I am not interested in a show car or perfect resto mod. Just a car that I can drive that will run reliably that looks decent. If I were seriously into old mustangs I would buy a 1969 Mach I which is my all-time fav old mustang. But then, of course, I would have to be careful with her and keep her in garage most of the time. Will continue to follow your videos on youtube.
All that new gleaming shiny new metal makes me so happy to see who ever gets this car is goingto be so lucky. Lowered too. It is all so excellent you just gotta love it!
Hey buddy, the reason I love watching you at work is because when one of your bodies is delivered, the client knows that it will easily outlive him or her and probably still look pretty good when his or her kids have matured. Big respect 👍🇬🇧🆒
I really like watching these Mustang videos.
I had one.Fun car with the girls.Blue color.Miss that Boss 302 and fast.Made me smile all the time.
Looking good! 👍👍👍
It's coming together nicely thumbs up 👍.
Excellent work. Enjoying the build. 👍👍😎
I like dis guy....he good...
Ben, I’ve had to pause this within 1 minute... I notice some dust/debris in the floor plan before you moved on to the next stage...! 🤣🤣🤣
I’m loving this project BTW. It reminds me of my ‘70 Fastback 302 auto that I terrorised the locals with on my first (6 months!) stay in US in ‘78...
It never ceases to amaze me as to how much you are willing to replace on a car. What is the determining factor that you are willing to restore one of these,a clear VIN number? I’ve watched a bunch of your videos in the past year or so and I’ve seen you replace like 90% of some of these Mustangs,and they come out beautiful! Just amazes me what you are willing to do.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Without Oxygen rust can’t grow. The right primer stops it in its tracks.👍🏻
Amazing.
Love the way he is always steps ahead so the problems don't start. His knowledge is superior.
Absolutely amazing
Your attention to detail always amazes me! The cowls always rust out and you took that extra time to really coat them. Love the videos!
Can you believe he self taught??..never went school??
Very nice work I must say by the way! Wish I was talented like you.
You make it look easy!
Keep them coming Ben! 👍🏼👍🏼
You really know these cars!!! These videos are amazing! I'm learning a lot about Mustangs here!!!
Amazing sir
This is my favorite UA-cam channel 🙌🏾
Thank you for using my track man! :) You are very talented! 👏🏼
Awesome work !
Amazing work...
Good watching Ben.
I stopped using brush seam sealer, I found that the urethane based sikaflex is far superior and you can also pull it round nicely with a brush.
I'm sure we all have different methods though!
Your videos are very addictive!👍👍
Another fine job.
You really are talented. You really do a nice job on every aspect of the build. (Even my inner die hard "keep it original it's a BOSS !" thinks your doing a real cool build !)
All that with no schoolin...he self taught..cant believe ir..
Wow, those old outer kick panels are in amazing condition, especially considering their position on the car and the other rust in that body. love your attention to detail.. surprised to see you using rattle cans? Surely a Man of your calibre has painting equipment?
Cool video. You do great work
Nice job! Love the way you work.
great job as always Ben
Brother....just came onto your channel. I have a 70 Boss and I really have to say you have Mad Skills. Respect!! New Sub here Man.....Thank You Mark
Love your work mate. well done.
I have noticed that I can sit and watch someone build a Mustang, day after day :) I enjoy it immensely too. Never heard of that 1" body drop though, is that a common thing, or?
Unreal. So you basically could have cut the roof off this body and welded it onto a rust free one and called it a boss 302. Amazing work.
WOOHOO.... taking a break from my build just to watch....
Looking good! Great call on the seam sealer water allways find a place to hide what type did you use ?
So good, I watched it twice!
Really appreciate how neat and organized you are. A mark of a true professional. Where did you purchase the can of seam sealer?
Thank you, I cant remember where but it is 3m brand
That thing is like 10000% solid. Every ford I have owned from that era had cowl rust.
They didn't treat the metal at all.
@@superduty4556 yeah and guess where the torque boxes are. Right underneath it.
Makes one wonder if that was yet another built in 'planned' 'life shortening' technique the big three were known for.... to insure the next models new buyer, that is. GM did it, only makes sense Ford did too.
@@Rev22-21 I think they only expect these cars to be good and reliable for 10 years. Yeah at that point they probably caught on they need to sell cars to make cars.
@@Rev22-21 Volkswagen didn't treat the floor pans of their cars either. I was probably a cost-saving measure.
People didn't run their cars into the ground like today I don't think.
Starting to come together! Looks awesome!
New to the channel. Perfection!!!!
Any chance you could share measurements for a 67 fastback? Pictures of the measurements you have taken to make sure every body panel lines up true. I wouldn’t mind paying for it.
God dude u are amazing.
I know you wire wheel the rust then hit with the red oxide primer, but aren't you worried about eventually rust through?
Impressive job!!
I need some work on my 70 mach 1. Easy job for you .it was hit years ago in front they put a 69 rad support in it . And prob had damage on drivers side quarter panel. Im.in wisconsin .
Lot of work to save the vin and pink, but what can you do.
What size welder? Clamps? Do a video on tools.
Quality as usual!....what seam sealer are you using??
I'm interested in knowing what seam sealer that is too.
Its 3m brand
@@petersonrestorations Thank you!
Awesome work! What primer/paint do you use? Can you show your spot welds before they are ground down?
For the most part I use an epoxy primer or good bare steel primer.
I've watched a lot of these cowl panel replacements. I plan doing one this summer on a 66 coupe. I havent see anyone really paying much attention to trying to get the proper centering location of the cowl. Place it on and start welding. I'm worried about centering, gaps when the fenders are reinstalled, having the export brace holes line up properly. Is it just as simple as placing a tapered rod in the export brace holes?
Great work.. we see you from buenos Aires .. whats about the chasis numbers when you change a panel .?
In a previous video he stated a non-original engine had replaced the car's factory engine, making it not a practical candidate for restoration. Instead he is going to do a Coyote swap resto-mod. You might want to review the previous videos to bring yourself up to speed.
Before I hopefully start watching videos on this channel, are car projects completed? Or its multiple cars at different levels of completion?
This 70 will be a full resto finished this year
Any reason you would not use POR15 in those hidden areas. It has always been my understanding that primer absorbs and attracts moisture and has been my experience as well.
It's prob epoxy primer or some kind or etching primer. It will be fine. POR has to have something to bond to. Rust pits or coarse sand blasted etc. Even roughed up with 80 grit works. Clean bare metal cleaned with say a wire wheel won't git POR the bite it needs. I've seen it peel right off frame rails
POR 15 is for amateurs. Sandblast and etch primer or epoxy is best whenever possible.
@@dewanitheriault3372 Woah someone didnt have their coffee yet.
That was a LOT of clamps to weld up a cowl, lol.... #dynacornonafriday Hopefully my 68 cowl pieces are made on a Tuesday, LOL
Wonder how many of these are “restored” by others with those door sills and cowl full of mud and mouse nests.
Just wondering if you have kept track of how many cars you have saved from the grave. 👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Not off the top of my head but I have pictures from each
I would really use 2k primer, they make it in a rattle can now.....
What did you brush on there (grey stuff) was it seam sealer? If so, is it waterproof? Looking to use it for a repair I need to do. Is it better to get a caulk tube of it and brush it with an acid brush -- or it doesn’t matter? Thanks for responding!
gonna need you to build me a 65/66
Ugh primer in those areas..... I hope it’s etch primer at least to prevent the rust that will happen even more than it already is rusted. This build deserves the best protection it can get. It’s gonna be sick
#savingtherustbuckets 👍🏼👍🏼💪🏼💪🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
I was wondering what Model Lincoln MIG welder you are using and what settings you use for heat and wire speed on the thin sheetmetal
I believe a 180 and usually C 4
If the floorboard is raised by two inches, how were you able to fit the firewall between the lower cowl panel and the floor/tunnel without chopping up the firewall? Unless I missed something. Thank you.
I raised the floor 1 inch and I will be cutting and alternating the firewall to fit properly later
You’re car better than factories.😊
Im curious how ur sub frame is going to mount, if it goes an inch up u will have to trim the aprons an inch to sit on them correctly? But than the engine bay will be an inch shorter would there be engine hood Clarence issues, and fender fitment?
Fenders wont change at all but you are correct with the other parts. Just have to alter things to make them all work together
Its not needed to use red oxide primer over the E-coat and I would have painted over the seam sealer.
Where is a good place to find A pillars for these things? Thanks.
Where were the new floor pan and other body parts sourced from?
How much do you have to keep to keep the VIN valid.
I saw a guy tear out everything off a 70 Chevelle SS and re-rivet the VIN 9n a car with a better body. He called the restoration an OE donor body.
Unless he has had someone come out from the highway patrol office to verify the changes on the new title it is illegal. Because the body panels are all stamped with part of the serial number. A buddy of mine had a friend changing cabs and beds on a truck and he told him he had to do this to make it legal. That is how they trace stolen parts or complete vehicles.Ronnie.
@@brdnsky6417 stamped in 1970? I doubt it. What he did with that Chevelle is totally bogus.
In Mr Petersen's case, I'm sure it's legal. How much of the original car is necessary?
As long as the VIN tag on the windshield matches what's on the vehicle registration, it's a moot point. What you said that other guy did on that Chevelle sounds somewhat shady and may even be borderline illegal. He stated in an earlier video this car is NOT going to be a concours, numbers matching restoration, as the car's original Mach 1 engine was lost, and a non-original engine had been installed in its place. The state doesn't really care about what gets swapped into what as long as the number on the VIN tag on the windshield matches what's on the vehicle registration. In 49 states, generally, after a car is twenty five years old, it's emissions exempt (even in California if the car was made before the 1975 model year). The state generally doesn't patrol car shows or check VINs unless the car is reported stolen.
@@houseofno I understand what your saying about numbers matching for restorations, but here in N.C. if you take a truck cab off of one truck with a title and put it on another frame from another with a title you have to get the highway patrol to make a new title. It will have that year of that cab because you have two titles. One for the frame and another for the cab. That is what the law is. Now I know this is done all the time but by law you are not suppose to do that by law. Because you will have two different numbers. They have gotten pretty strict here. I bought a car with a S.C. title and for me to get a tag I had to get the highway patrol to come out and check the numbers on the car before I could get a tag. But like I said I understand it's done all the time. It's just when you have two numbers and you have numbers on frames and cabs, here you need to do it. Just to cover your self. Some where someone could cry about this part was this persons. Well you need to be able to prove what you got. Ronnie.
What brand of replacement panels do you use?
What kind of paint do you use in the spray cans ?
Where did you get your replacement panels? Are they from Dynacorn?
Where did the VIN tag go?
At what point does a restoration become a clone?
So should I have just scrapped it instead of saving it?
What is that platform the shell is sitting on? Also what type of seam sealer are you using? Ronnie.
3m sealer and it's an all steel platform I made
@@petersonrestorations Thanks for the info. Ronnie.