You should warn people to never seal an ecu with any adhesive coming from a caulking gun, because some are conductive like PU glue...and others release acid fumes when drying like bathroom silicone... both will destroy the ecu , pu glue will short it immediately if it touches any component or trace and silicone will corrode it over time..... the best thing to use is rtv silicone, making sure its non acid type. Rtv silicone is very good as insulator , its durable and usually non acid.. just go to a car parts store and search for gasket silicone or whatever...it comes in black red or grey
That's a good point. I tend to forget I spent a long time testing the best type of sealers before I found one that worked. I use permatex 81173 (oxime silicone rubber) and it has worked the best imo. www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tds/81173.pdf
i thank you very very much for this very valuable info,i am starting on this and is very important this knowledge,one question how much heat you use for desoldering?
350c is typically a safe heat to use while learning. Personally, I usually leave my station on max heat and airspeed but this should only be done after you have a lot of experience using hot air because if used incorrectly you will damage things easily.
Last time I tried Kess3 it failed to read these through obd. Only worked in boot mode. Since I didnt need to read flash there is really no reason to remove pcb from glue'd heatsink side to access boot pin imo. The eeprom is so easy to remove its no issue for me.
25 днів тому
I was told that after a delete you would not be able to read the VIN number with a scan tool, is that right?
Great information, i would like to purchase more eeprom data information as i can't really find any sources online. Would you be interested in selling some eeprom decoding, location to immo, vin, and other information needed to code a ecu, cluste, bcm, etc. I got all the means of reading and writing, but most of the time, i send the .bin file out to have it modified as i can't understand which address and values to change. Thank you.
I dont have much time to organize stuff to sell like that but I post stuff once in awhile on my website www.autoelectronics101.com. I just created a forum there as well for situations just like what you need. You can make a post there with the file you need help with and I will help if I can.
very nice and informative sir! well done!
Thanks prof from Algeria
thanks again man saved me a bunch of money!
Your videos are very helpful to us other techs. What program or equipment you use to read hexa decimal bytes? Thanks
You should warn people to never seal an ecu with any adhesive coming from a caulking gun, because some are conductive like PU glue...and others release acid fumes when drying like bathroom silicone... both will destroy the ecu , pu glue will short it immediately if it touches any component or trace and silicone will corrode it over time..... the best thing to use is rtv silicone, making sure its non acid type. Rtv silicone is very good as insulator , its durable and usually non acid.. just go to a car parts store and search for gasket silicone or whatever...it comes in black red or grey
That's a good point. I tend to forget I spent a long time testing the best type of sealers before I found one that worked.
I use permatex 81173 (oxime silicone rubber) and it has worked the best imo. www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tds/81173.pdf
legend! thanks for this
Hello, thank you very much for your explanation
Nice work
i thank you very very much for this very valuable info,i am starting on this and is very important this knowledge,one question how much heat you use for desoldering?
350c is typically a safe heat to use while learning. Personally, I usually leave my station on max heat and airspeed but this should only be done after you have a lot of experience using hot air because if used incorrectly you will damage things easily.
Nice job! Could you please tell us what heat station you are using sir? Thanks a lot for sharing!
I use older Quick 861DW and Metcal HCT 900. Mostly the quick.
You can use Ktag to read the eeprom on the ME7.5 without removing it
Last time I tried Kess3 it failed to read these through obd. Only worked in boot mode. Since I didnt need to read flash there is really no reason to remove pcb from glue'd heatsink side to access boot pin imo. The eeprom is so easy to remove its no issue for me.
I was told that after a delete you would not be able to read the VIN number with a scan tool, is that right?
No, Ive never experienced that on these.
@@ecurepair Would you be willing to do one for my 03 jetta if i sent it to you?
Sure I dont mind doing that
Good joob 👊
Great information, i would like to purchase more eeprom data information as i can't really find any sources online. Would you be interested in selling some eeprom decoding, location to immo, vin, and other information needed to code a ecu, cluste, bcm, etc. I got all the means of reading and writing, but most of the time, i send the .bin file out to have it modified as i can't understand which address and values to change. Thank you.
I dont have much time to organize stuff to sell like that but I post stuff once in awhile on my website www.autoelectronics101.com. I just created a forum there as well for situations just like what you need. You can make a post there with the file you need help with and I will help if I can.
Ok great. Thank you for the information. I already signed up to your site.
Is it same for me 7.1.1
yes
Fyi your ebay and
Amazon links arent working even copy pasted them.
Thank you for the heads up. They do work for me, I think maybe my site was just down for a little while.
@ecurepair the links in the description I mean.