Good informative videos brother. I've had a WW2 SS marked K98 for 38 years. Needed treatment. I was only a "Tanker" in the Army, so my Gunsmithing smarts are limited. I just ordered this OXPHOR blue, hoping it'll be a winner. Cerakote & Dura Coat SUCK for gun finishes. I'd rather have worn BLUING than CHIPPED Creakote. (1-64th Armor 3rd I.D.) Hooah!
Again a really great vid Iraqvet, short and sweet. Very informative and probably going to use this info someday. One thing i noticed, cleaning with rubbing alcohol. That alcohol usually has a bit of lanolin added by the manufacturer. I don't know if that would affect the cleaning or not. I use brake cleaner or acetone, nothing but very strong solvent in that after all.
Great video. Just got a fair condition Schmidt Rubin 1896/11 that's pretty rusty, but a great shooter . I've learned a lot from your channel I plan on using this winter for this project gun.
just received a Ithaca 20 gauge,long story short someone was trying to clean it up with mothers metal polish so it just needs a small amount of rebounding!!! Not so smart on his part,The gun has sentiment value to me so I'd like it to look nice!!! Thanks for the video.
Question: Sorry, I know this is ten years old, but it's still very valuable. I'm looking to touch up the blueing on my Colt 1903, but it's very blue. Baby Blue even. This result looks very brown in the video. How do you get a baby blue looking blue job? My pistol has the 1917 factory finish on it.
Enjoyed the vids Eric. I bet it's gonna look great. Midway sells what they call "shooter's swabs" - they work great for applying cold blue. For degreasing I use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) - it works really well. I hope you show the stock you mentioned - I'd like to see the finished product. Keep 'em coming.
exceallint , when i dout , vido show me waht i miss on the paper work , i atyp that read and see to get good ideal of the work that his to be done ,thank you , eddie
I'm a filmmaker and gunowner. IQvet, you seem to have a loyal following and an awesome array of videos. Why not invest in some good video lighting and macro-capable HD cams to up the ante? Really helpful when doing closeups of the bluing
What's the best option for a old sxs shotgun I know hot bluing isn't a option because of the barrel sottering it has pitting and cracked stock on the the neck where the receiver meets the buttstock my grandpa died and left it to me its only worth about $100-200 but has sentimental value
A bench grinder with a wire brush wheel works really fast. Pitting? Really all one can do is have it welded over.. Whole different level of restoration.
I'm not planning on doing this any time soon, if ever, yet I find this series very interesting. Hell, all your videos are interesting. I have a question: Why is it that stainless versions of rifles generally cost more than the blued versions? Isn't the barrel stainless steel either way, and the bluing is just added labor? After you took the finish off that barrel it looked good enough to keep it that way, just got me wondering...
Why even bother replying to a critic who calls himself "poopdogsays"? The sentient viewers know that the presentation is excellent, Felix Unger's commentary notwithstanding.
It wouldn't my first choice for an overall bluing but i guess it is possible in theory. Would come out shoddy unless you were seriously skilled though.
I remember reading somewhere that a mild acid solution can be used to remove bluing. Its supposed to be less harmful to the base metal. I imagine it would work well on small parts. Anybody ever try it? How were the results?
Oh I agree 100%. Using Brakleen would eliminate the wiping. It breaks everything down. It's all that I use when I clean my firearms. So yeah I'm not sure why he insists on using alcohol. It certainly doesn't look like he's inside his house. Then again he is a man so...
You might want to say a few words about gun values before describing refinishing projects. A worn finish on your old deer rifle will diminish it's value. But, on a rifle like the Finn M1891, finish wear is not nearly so damaging to it's value. These arms are participants in making history and were hard used. The people most attracted to such weapons are collectors who, for the most part, value "original condition" above all else. Your Finn M91 may have brought something like $400-$500 depending on condition- ORIGINAL condition. Your refinished (Finn) M91 may look more pleasing to your eyes but, put on Gun Broker will most likely only bring around $300 or less. That is a substantial hit that once done, can - never - be corrected. And in a Finn M91, we are talking about a fairly common weapon. Many others are considerably more valuable... in original condition. It pains me to see what you have done to it. A Finn Mosin-Nagant in the M28 series would have an original value well in excess of $600 but refinished, the value would be no better than your refinished M91. All the above applies equally well to the wood finishes too only, the lines are more blurred. The bottom line is that, once refinished, your gun's value is established the same as any other "used gun" and in original military configuration would have even less value than many older sporting arms. Know what you have and think well on it before refinishing.
Speaking as a professional gunsmith I'd say it's no business of yours what anyones workspace looks like as long as you get a good job done for your money. I used to hate customers like you, fortunately 99% of people aren't such smart-arses. I'd tell you if you are so clever then work on your own fucking guns, I don't want your money.
Your comments would be a whole lot better if you would clean up your spelling and grammar. For example, "videos" should not have an apostrophe in this context, and "a lot" is two words, not one.
You might want to say a few words about gun values before describing refinishing projects. A worn finish on your old deer rifle will diminish it's value. But, on a rifle like the Finn M1891, finish wear is not nearly so damaging to it's value. These arms are participants in making history and were hard used. The people most attracted to such weapons are collectors who, for the most part, value "original condition" above all else. Your Finn M91 may have brought something like $400-$500 depending on condition- ORIGINAL condition. Your refinished (Finn) M91 may look more pleasing to your eyes but, put on Gun Broker will most likely only bring around $300 or less. That is a substantial hit that once done, can -never- be corrected. And in a Finn M91, we are talking about a fairly common weapon. Many others are considerably more valuable... in original condition. It pains me to see what you have done to it. A Finn Mosin-Nagant in the M28 series would have an original value well in excess of $500 but refinished, the value would be no better than your refinished M91. All the above applies equally well to the wood finishes too only, the lines are more blurred. The bottom line is that, once refinished, your gun's value is established the same as any other "used gun" and in original military configuration would have even less value than many older sporting arms. Know what you have and think well on it before refinishing.
Great work and thanks for the ideas!! Can't imagine a better way to spend the afternoon than refinishing an old rifle other than reloading!
A Scotch-brite "red general use" pad also works as good and sometimes better than sanding, especially around contours and tight spots.
Good informative videos brother. I've had a WW2 SS marked K98 for 38 years. Needed treatment.
I was only a "Tanker" in the Army, so my Gunsmithing smarts are limited. I just ordered this OXPHOR blue, hoping it'll be a winner.
Cerakote & Dura Coat SUCK for gun finishes. I'd rather have worn BLUING than CHIPPED Creakote.
(1-64th Armor 3rd I.D.) Hooah!
Your videos got me started into my career as a gunsmith :) big thank you to all at Moss pawn and gun from a grateful subscriber!
Again a really great vid Iraqvet, short and sweet. Very informative and probably going to use this info someday.
One thing i noticed, cleaning with rubbing alcohol. That alcohol usually has a bit of lanolin added by the manufacturer. I don't know if that would affect the cleaning or not. I use brake cleaner or acetone, nothing but very strong solvent in that after all.
Great video. Just got a fair condition Schmidt Rubin 1896/11 that's pretty rusty, but a great shooter . I've learned a lot from your channel I plan on using this winter for this project gun.
just received a Ithaca 20 gauge,long story short someone was trying to clean it up with mothers metal polish so it just needs a small amount of rebounding!!! Not so smart on his part,The gun has sentiment value to me so I'd like it to look nice!!! Thanks for the video.
a friend of mine from work recomended applying the blueing with very fine steel wool. He thinks he gets a more even result. have you tried this?
Holy crap it is a M91 Dragoon.
I have been using Oxpho for many years. best cold blue on the market.
Question: Sorry, I know this is ten years old, but it's still very valuable. I'm looking to touch up the blueing on my Colt 1903, but it's very blue. Baby Blue even. This result looks very brown in the video. How do you get a baby blue looking blue job? My pistol has the 1917 factory finish on it.
I really like these videos
Enjoyed the vids Eric. I bet it's gonna look great. Midway sells what they call "shooter's swabs" - they work great for applying cold blue. For degreasing I use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) - it works really well. I hope you show the stock you mentioned - I'd like to see the finished product. Keep 'em coming.
exceallint , when i dout , vido show me waht i miss on the paper work , i atyp that read and see to get good ideal of the work that his to be done ,thank you , eddie
Thanks for these videos - excellent information!
I'm a filmmaker and gunowner. IQvet, you seem to have a loyal following and an awesome array of videos. Why not invest in some good video lighting and macro-capable HD cams to up the ante? Really helpful when doing closeups of the bluing
...Nice video on Gun Blueing...Thank You!!
Very useful and informative video. cheers
this is a handy little series, i have two single shot shotguns that REALLY need to be blued... thanks :D
What's the best option for a old sxs shotgun I know hot bluing isn't a option because of the barrel sottering it has pitting and cracked stock on the the neck where the receiver meets the buttstock my grandpa died and left it to me its only worth about $100-200 but has sentimental value
Dont you have a polishing/buffing wheel set up? after the sanding, a buffing wheel will make that barrel SMOOTH!
Would putting the barrel in a long box and using a glass lid in the high sun ( in the summer ) heat it up enough?
can you replace kroll oil with ballistol , Remi oil or wd40, Thanks
Thanks for posting! : )
@flyingturtle1 you can soak the action in vinegar to remove bluing
A bench grinder with a wire brush wheel works really fast. Pitting? Really all one can do is have it welded over.. Whole different level of restoration.
I'm not planning on doing this any time soon, if ever, yet I find this series very interesting. Hell, all your videos are interesting. I have a question: Why is it that stainless versions of rifles generally cost more than the blued versions? Isn't the barrel stainless steel either way, and the bluing is just added labor? After you took the finish off that barrel it looked good enough to keep it that way, just got me wondering...
Great video thanks
You musta worked in a salon the way you handled that hairdryer..Would it be the same concept to blue my AK?..Any quick tips?
how would you handle sanding or metal work around lettering on the barrel?
Costco sells some nice equipment, even. :)
Thanks for your posts. Any advice on bluing a 440c stainless steel knife blade. All advice welcomed and greatly appreciated. Thanks
Why not use the wheel buffer to buff the steel? Like you did in the last vid....
Nice video, what grit of sandpaper did you use? i'm going to re blue my old airgun :)
Do you sand the flat areas as well with kroil?
Why even bother replying to a critic who calls himself "poopdogsays"?
The sentient viewers know that the presentation is excellent, Felix Unger's commentary notwithstanding.
@krazedlunatick I have a .22 I should blue also. I'd be willing to bet this is what a lot of people do as the there first gunsmithing project.
so I can use that stuff for a rifle that's never been blued before?
It wouldn't my first choice for an overall bluing but i guess it is possible in theory. Would come out shoddy unless you were seriously skilled though.
I remember the old days of youtube when there was a 10 minute video time limit.
I remember reading somewhere that a mild acid solution can be used to remove bluing. Its supposed to be less harmful to the base metal. I imagine it would work well on small parts. Anybody ever try it? How were the results?
Is there any reason you wouldn't use Brakleen to degrease everything?
+Lonewlf7676 Was wondering the same thing myself.
Oh I agree 100%. Using Brakleen would eliminate the wiping. It breaks everything down. It's all that I use when I clean my firearms. So yeah I'm not sure why he insists on using alcohol. It certainly doesn't look like he's inside his house. Then again he is a man so...
Any brake cleaner is a great degreaser. And it's great for killing wasps too. lol
A soak in household white vinegar will remove existing bluing and save a shitload of sanding time.
You might want to say a few words about gun values before describing refinishing projects. A worn finish on your old deer rifle will diminish it's value. But, on a rifle like the Finn M1891, finish wear is not nearly so damaging to it's value. These arms are participants in making history and were hard used. The people most attracted to such weapons are collectors who, for the most part, value "original condition" above all else. Your Finn M91 may have brought something like $400-$500 depending on condition- ORIGINAL condition. Your refinished (Finn) M91 may look more pleasing to your eyes but, put on Gun Broker will most likely only bring around $300 or less. That is a substantial hit that once done, can - never - be corrected. And in a Finn M91, we are talking about a fairly common weapon. Many others are considerably more valuable... in original condition. It pains me to see what you have done to it.
A Finn Mosin-Nagant in the M28 series would have an original value well in excess of $600 but refinished, the value would be no better than your refinished M91.
All the above applies equally well to the wood finishes too only, the lines are more blurred. The bottom line is that, once refinished, your gun's value is established the same as any other "used gun" and in original military configuration would have even less value than many older sporting arms.
Know what you have and think well on it before refinishing.
What grit sandpaper did you use?
can i use something other than kroil? like rem oil or hoppes?
what about a 1911 frame?
Lemon juice will take bluing off almost instantly.
Does it cause rusting or staining? No issues with it?
You sound like Kenny Powers!
@krazedlunatick Try your hand at rust bluing. It's just as simple and the results are far more permanent.
Danny McBride?
Don’t use kroil oil. It is the worst thing to wipe guns down with
Dont round the edges please.
i am the 10,000th viewer!
That's kind of a crappy thing to say, try to be more kind.
i kept thinking you were saying "thin" not "Finn" you really should call it "Finnish" just not to offend anyone :)
Speaking as a professional gunsmith I'd say it's no business of yours what anyones workspace looks like as long as you get a good job done for your money.
I used to hate customers like you, fortunately 99% of people aren't such smart-arses.
I'd tell you if you are so clever then work on your own fucking guns, I don't want your money.
Your comments would be a whole lot better if you would clean up your spelling and grammar. For example, "videos" should not have an apostrophe in this context, and "a lot" is two words, not one.
You might want to say a few words about gun values before describing refinishing projects. A worn finish on your old deer rifle will diminish it's value. But, on a rifle like the Finn M1891, finish wear is not nearly so damaging to it's value. These arms are participants in making history and were hard used. The people most attracted to such weapons are collectors who, for the most part, value "original condition" above all else. Your Finn M91 may have brought something like $400-$500 depending on condition- ORIGINAL condition. Your refinished (Finn) M91 may look more pleasing to your eyes but, put on Gun Broker will most likely only bring around $300 or less. That is a substantial hit that once done, can -never- be corrected. And in a Finn M91, we are talking about a fairly common weapon. Many others are considerably more valuable... in original condition. It pains me to see what you have done to it.
A Finn Mosin-Nagant in the M28 series would have an original value well in excess of $500 but refinished, the value would be no better than your refinished M91.
All the above applies equally well to the wood finishes too only, the lines are more blurred. The bottom line is that, once refinished, your gun's value is established the same as any other "used gun" and in original military configuration would have even less value than many older sporting arms.
Know what you have and think well on it before refinishing.