You guys are awesome! When I made my first couple videos, I never thought it would turn into something like this, and we couldn't have done it without all y'all! I hope to keep making videos for as long as y'all keep watchin' them!
It works like a compressor bleed valve on a Jet Engine. I love how you thought outside the box on this. My only complaint cern would be duplicating repeatability on spring free length and tension specs. ( as cycle and fatigue along with ambient temperature along with heat transfer to the spring)......what if you reduced the apex diameter at the waste poet with a metered orifice like a washer tack welded in place?
Thank you! Like I said, I really like how these guys work. I've never had any issues with boost pressures drifting, though I wouldn't be surprised if you had to give the spring half a crank a couple months after the initial install. On the '96, I've enlarged the internal gate to 32mm and it still works very well. I've also got this exact unit that I made in the video on a '94 and it's working very well too. Overall I'm just very happy with how they work straight out of the box. I'd be curious how installing an orifice would affect the boost pressure over the RPM range. I'm currently of the mind that the bigger the wastegate port the better based on my experience with mine when I had it stock sized, then opened it up to 25mm then up to 32mm. Also, truth be told, this Spring-gate design wasn't my idea. I got the general idea from some guys running them on HE351's and such.
Well I respect any idea tht has the potenti to simplify the industry and break out of need to buy overpriced complications tht can be solved Inna garage and a beer I've had the same concept for years just nvr took the time to break it all down trial and error... Good job I w HV to watch more videos from u ....
I'm working on a double flow double pressure fuel sys for my common rail rt now and IAM running into extremely high egts flat ground no load. And my air restriction gauge is always pegg'd in the red .. so I've bn assembling a duel filter stem and tryna to make the room and hv a heat barrier is been quite a bitch...plus the boost cntlr. Aux fuel pump filter reg etc I had to ditch the windshield wiper res and coolent res ...well relocate both out of a 89 Honda Accord did the trick I be bn having this thought / fantasy of slapping a 2.0 liter mechanical turbo / supper chrgr pre turbo intake and moving up to a 73-75 mm. Compressor. Have any thoughts on any of the above mentioned / input I'm ina creative lull on overload with all the niffty ideas projects ive created
Yes.. I did it in diesel pusher.. dog at 325.. 40 psi it’s strangely fast.. many people turned up 8.3 and put many miles.. no issues if u have 3060 tranny
Our hx40 good to 40 psi safely.. p pump on 8.3 will do 500 hp with simple adjustments… and I and others have beat on them 100,000 miles.. no I’ll effects..unless tranny isn’t 3060
Hi, the actuator for my wastegate is not holding pressure. The wastegate flapper is shut closed. But the actuator rod does move and open the wastegate when I applied pressure to the actuator. The flapper has no play and sits tight. Can a stucked CLOSED wastegate flapper cause P0299 code. I am getting a P0299 with closed wastegate flapper. Is this possible? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
im not quite convinced. short term this seems like a great idea. over time though the head will weaken that spring changing your settings quite a bit and could cause major problems. or am i incorrect about this.
any idea why my 05 24v grid heater light dings 8 times when truck is fully warmed up going 60? no code or engine light comes on, truck runs fine execept when the light comes on, it stays on for 2 minutes then shuts off and truck runs fine
Unfortunately CR's aren't my forte. after doing some digging I did find this: "NUMBER: 18-006-12GROUP: Vehicle Performance DATE: February 04, 2012 THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 18-011-11 REV. B. , DATED JULY 1, 2011, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE ADDITIONAL OVERVIEW AND DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION. HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS AVAILABLE BY SELECTING “HELP” THEN “HELP CONTENTS” AT THE TOP OF THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW. THE wiTECH SOFTWARE LEVEL MUST BE AT RELEASE 12. 02 OR HIGHER TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE. THE DRBIII® FLASH FILES FOR THIS BULLETIN ARE AVAILABLE ON DealerCONNECT. SUBJECT: Flash: Diagnostic Enhancements For Fuel System OVERVIEW: This bulletin provides Engine Control Module (ECM) software enhancements to improve robustness to fuel system issue detection and two new Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software. Diagnostic procedures for these new DTC's are included in this Service Bulletin on the last 2 pages which may be printed. The two new injector Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) for excessive injector return flow are: · P1222 - LEAK DETECTION DURING MOTORING · P1223 - LEAK DETECTION BASED ON QUANTITY BALANCE **When the fault(s) occur, a solid Wait to Start lamp will illuminate in the cluster along with chiming 10 times. When the fault goes inactive, it will clear the wait to start lamp with no chimes**." Can you double check you don't have any codes? Some may not illuminate the check engine light. Due to my limited knowledge in this area, I would recommend going on a forum and posting your question there as you'll be able to pick the brains of people who have seen this a thousand times. I hope it works out! Take care.
I personally hate spring waste gates .I can never seem to control them properly on compound setups. They either open early allowing a leak or late making boost creep. That's me . Many have great results with them I've read though .
the reason for vaccum waste gate are to dump unwanted pressure after you let off throttle by doing this you are holding heat inside exhaust chambers and will cause melt down, If you want more psi add bigger turbo and intake let engine breath and engine will gain hp my stock hx 35 I got 35 psi stock waste gate by letting engine breath add more fuel too. DO NOT DO THIS to your engine
On a gas engine, this is possible. But on a diesel engine the stock wastegate opens with pressure, vacuum can not open it. So it will never open at idle. On a 12 Valve the way the wastegate is designed it limits boost to ~20 psi, but starts to crack the wastegate open at around 10 psi. So once you throw a boost elbow on it, it'll make 35 psi, but starts to crack open at ~15psi. What that means is once you hit 15 psi, some of the exhaust is being wasted by bypassing the turbine, so in order to spool it further, you'll need more fuel which is more heat and more smoke. This spring gate keeps it closed till around 25 psi which means it will spool faster cooler and cleaner.
My buddy blew a hx35 all stock 12v put a hx40 on it and just plugged it and welded it shut no actuator at all so it keeps building boost and says he just watches the gauges and doesn’t push it to far.. is the residual boost left inside bad? Or cause high egts? Seems even more gutless then before lol seems like it’s fighting to spool down almost??
I just did this with my truck but my boost controller arm was damaged so I had to use a slightly different setup which doesn't allow the spring to be set as tight. Engine seems a little flat in gears 1-3 and then pulls hard in 4th. Should I try a stronger spring?
@@zachglick502 Thanks Zach; I should have mentioned that I had just swapped in a 5 speed when I posted that. Maybe it's just me but having to shift manually makes me more aware of what the engine is doing. I finally put a temporary gauge on the boost line (just a fuel pressure gauge) and I'm getting just north of 35psi; I should probably back off on the spring. My principle shortcoming was that I'm pretty much a gas engine motorhead. I had little awareness of the (stock) governor. It's working just the way it should.
The spring I use has a working range from 12.9 to 30 pounds. More details can be found here: www.mcmaster.com/#9628k58/=162m1ba If you need more spring tension and have extra room, these slightly longer springs can also be used. www.mcmaster.com/#9628k29/=162m4dm Thanks for watching!
CumminsWorks until when in your rpm range do you start making boost I have my 3 inch eye bolt tight all the way I can hit 32psi if I really romp on the pedal but if I'm just cruising along with barely any pedal in it I can get from 0-4 psi in stop and go traffic up at 2000 rpm, and can get to 15psi if I put my foot in it a little more I have a 98.5 24 valve with a 5 speed
CumminsWorks should I just roll with it like this not to interested in hp until I get my 150s in just looking for some good mileage me being in college and all
Here's a graph of Boost/Drive Pressure vs RPM from back when I had this setup installed. s20.postimg.org/wftq77lkd/screenshot_68.png That's with a 96 12 valve in 4th gear flooring it from 900 RPM. If you've got stock fueling, then what you describe sounds fairly normal. Checking for boost leaks and fuel pressure wouldn't hurt though.
CumminsWorks not stock have a airdog 150 and edge juice w attitude cts2 have it on 4x3 with my air dog at a steady 17psi from idle to wot... you think maybe a lil stiffer spring
What is your maximum turbo pressure? I have a 7.3L PowerStroke with a Garret TP38 turbo. Maximum pressure is 23 psi. I want to switch to a bigger turbo. for more PSI.
This is a Dodge Cummins site or for people that have swapped in the 5.9/6.7 L6 in whatever, Not a NO POWER Smoke site. Just kidding, the thing is, the old 7.3 DID, not the early version of the 6.9/7.3 was and is still a good hunk of iron unlike what came as replacement, 6.0,up those engines could last almost as long as a Cummins but that doesn't happen very much. Anyhow, with the PowerStroke the fuel is electronically controlled on all engines, so if you want more boost, you need the ECM tune modified. For the Cummins it is all mechanical until the Pump was replaced with a VP44 or the Common rails came out.
Im new to this but can anyone explain me what do i need to do to increse power of my turbo so my car can run good at low rmp. OR with this test i got more power with higher rmp. or im getting both?
Is this on a gas or diesel engine? On a diesel engine, depending on your setup, this should increase your boost/power at all RPM's, but should have better low RPM performance than most of your typical boost controlling devices currently available. Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with performance parts on gas engines, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, and wouldn't increase performance. I would check out a forum that deals with the engine you're wishing to increase the power on, and ask them there thoughts. Either way though, when installing any boost controlling device, make sure to watch the boost gauge and insure everything is operating within they're limits. And thanks for watching!
It is a diesel! With a diesel, you don't make power by adding boost. But more boost does allow you to add more fuel which does increase power! Picture boost like a key, fuel is the door knob, and power is on the other side of the door. ideally you'd have the key, which then allows you to easily and safely turn the door knob and get to your power. If you don't have a door knob for the key, there's no point in having a key. Or likewise, without the key, you may be able to get your get at the power, but you'll likely break something in the process. With the wastegate closed, it forces more exhaust through the turbine which drives it harder increasing boost. So by increasing the spring tension (tightening the nut) the wastegate stays closed longer thus increasing boost. If your stock wastegate actuator is working well and giving you the results you're wanting, there isn't a huge reason to swap it out, but if you're wanting to up the boost a little, the method shown in the video is very simple, effective and reliable. Take care.
Im not sure it's a good idea to do this to a TDI. BMW's are especially finicky, and the system tends to go nuts due to factory tunes. The only way to do this safely is to 1. Use custom tunes, and 2. A larger turbo. Most European car's are built with very tight tolerance, especially if it's a VGT turbo, and most are. It's hard to get any more power out of a BMW diesel engine becouse there's just not much of an aftermarket support. Tunes and turbo are about all you can get. I've spent almost a year looking into this debating on getting one, but, it just isn't there like an American diesel engine has I.E. Cummins, powerstroke, duramax, international and CAT. As a BMW owner and a diesel owner ( 2 7.3s, 1 24v cummins), if you want to build and play, stick to the big 3, much more options and far less stress on the bank accounts. Tunes for a BMW are way more expensive, way more, starting out at around 2500 and up.
Excellent Question! The turbo is driven by the heat in the engine's exhaust. At little load, you don't inject much fuel, so the fire is small not making much heat, with only a little heat, the turbo doesn't make much boost. At full load, you're injecting lots of fuel, so the fire is very large making lots of heat so the turbo spools. If enough fuel is injected, the turbo will try to make too much boost, causing it to overspeed and potentially blow up, that's when the wastegate comes in to limit boost to prevent failure. You can watch this video to see how boost acts with this setup. The top gauge is EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), this is the exhaust temp going into and feeding the turbo. Second from the top is Boost, this is the pressure that the turbo is making that's feeding the engine and making more power! Third from the top is Drive Pressure, This is the pressure of the exhaust gas feeding the turbo. ua-cam.com/video/Mh2za4VoOAU/v-deo.htmlm Hopefully this answered your question, if not let me know!
can you do a video on how to adjust the boost with the system you just showed ? Id like to get a spring and eyelet ( not ssure on the spring tension tho ( or spring size ) But great video.. also If I put a 4 or 5 inch exhaust on my 97 dodge will it affect boost or create an issue? Thanks
I sure can, I shot a video a couple months back of doing just that, but the footage didn't turn out the way I wanted. But I can give it another shot. A link to the spring I used is in the description of the video, you may be able to get a spring from a hardware store or a tractor supply. Putting a larger exhaust on shouldn't have any negative effects. Depending on your setup, It may increase boost 1 psi at most. I like to make my own eyelets that's a low-profile design for added adjustment and easier installation, would you have any interest in me sending you an eyelet and spring? Or heck, even the whole bracket and mounting hardware if you'd like? I'd have to look at what my costs are, but it wouldn't be much. Take care and Thank Your for your Support and Ideas!
I just bought a 96 ram 3500 the kid has everything wide open on it and the actuator is bad how accurate its the boost reading in regards to spring tension right now currently with the spring used i get about 12. For boost
Boost directly correlates to spring tension. If you want more boost, you gotta increase the spring tension. With only 12 psi, you probably need a stiffer spring.
+CumminsWorks thanks ive been up all night undoing what a child has done to the poor girl so I can get it right and if this will work out till I have funds for a new turbo then you sir are a genius
If you're heavily into the throttle and then instantly let off, then yes it will, simply due to the higher boost pressure. Though a spring-gate would theoretically not do it as much as other boost controllers due to the faster reaction time of the gate. This is a good thing because that flutter is know as "turbo bark" and can damage the turbo.
Hey My brotha , Youre a Great mechanic - great setup - But when are you going to give us a video on the spring tension ? I have an automatic and want all the boost I can get without transmission problems - My truck has 178K on the trans.. also your antifreeze filter setup... TTYL
Thank ya Sir! I've been working on a video regarding the issue with your truck, should be done within the next couple days, after that, the spring tension adjustment is on my short list. Just to clarify though, more boost is only really needed if you're increasing the fueling as well. So unless you've turned up the injection pump, more boost isn't necessary and won't yield any HP gains. Take care man!
They are considerably different. Here's a link to both. www.genosgarage.com/product/sensor-4921497/engine-sensors-2 www.genosgarage.com/product/sensor-3971106/engine-sensors-3
Thanks, now,I put a 03 cummings in a 99 truck that had a cummings in it with a 3 bar map,what can I do to keep it 3,or do I have to run the 4 bar map that came with the 03?
Nja. Standart spring stabilise turbo gass Exit. Over time, the wear of a spring can, of course, replace another. But there is a problem. During Turin, 200 to 950 degrees of normal springs heat up such temperatures. Better to put this kind of original. It has been tested in life. BMW Drifta E39 tds 530
With a welded wastegate, it can no longer function. The wastegates job is to A)prevent catastrophic failure of the turbo by overspeeding, and B)give you the ability to tune the boost to achieve the most performance from your system. Some people will weld the wastegate shut because it will increase spooling ever so slightly, and they're OK with keeping an eagle eye on the gauges to prevent over-boosting. However, that is when compaired with the stock wastegate actuator, or when using a boost elbow. Using the method in the video, the turbo should spool just as quickly as if it was welded.
I would not recommend using this method no. Your GT2556V appears to use a vane system to alter the AR of the turbine housing, which is a superior method to the simple wastegate as shown in the video, but can be trickier to control.
This would be great...IF the boost sensor (MAP sensor) didn't shut fuel down when it sees 20psi. You could weld your waste gate shut, and you'd ONLY make 20psi. Now, you will get faster spools with a tighter wastegate, but not higher boost pressures. You'll spool faster, but also defuel faster as well (the MPA sensor feeds info to the ECM that tells the injector pump to shut fuel down)
@@zachglick502 boost foolers are good for two things. 1: black smoke, 2: throwing codes 😁 The ECM will sense a loss of proper feedback, or other sensors will counteract the map sensor and you'll lose boost/power again. Boost foolers are about a smuch as a power adders as big wheels are on Jeep's. They may look cool, but that parking lot doesn't pose much of a threat to anyone but fan boys
@@MrGhostVortex Interesting, considering its a simple additional circuit of resistors and capacitors, the ECM would see exactly what you want it to see.
@@MrGhostVortex I don't see how on a mechanical injection engine. The only time I could see the ECU getting upset is on newer common rail trucks, but even 3rd gen common rail Cummins trucks can have compound turbos and no tune with no codes. Trucks with VP44 ECU's correct based on pedal position and MAP, given commanded load. Therefore a fooler would simply simulate a high load command scenario, by relaying that the MAP is still within the ECU's limitations, and the ECU given pedal position and RPM would adjust injection timing and pulse width to match.
As long as you have a boost gauge and keep boost at a safe level, you can do it on any turbo. The stock safe limit for the 94-98 12 valves Cummins is around 35 psi with the stock turbo. Though on a stock truck, there isn't much point in increasing boost unless you plan on upping the fueling as well. Take care and thanks for watching!
You can also just play with pump adjustments for free! There's enough adjustments in the pump for quite a bit of fun! If do have to be a little careful about slipping clutches though.
I hope to soon! My editing computer is down for a motherboard right now, but once it's back up and running I hope to tackle some more how-to's! Thank you for your ideas and support!
Am I not sure I understand your comment. Did you mean "Safety Margin"? If so, then, well, sorta. But there are thousands of people running there HX35's at 35psi, with very few reporting issues. Whenever you turn something up to make it faster you're removing some safety margin, whether that's engines, turbos, or computers. If you meant "Safety Features", then well not really as the gate is still very functional, it just won't open until a higher PSI now. If it was as simple as buying a larger turbo, then it'd be a no-brainer, but I don't want the extra lag a bigger turbo would have. So instead I'm working on building a compound turbo system to hopefully get the best of both worlds. But this mod alone is very simple and should easily support 300-350hp.
"Never ending circle that only gets interrupted by breaking parts" LOL - LIKE!!!
How long before the spring gets weakened thru heat transfer
12v cummins, can you do more videos on 20 year old technology.
Subscribed !! Kool info !! Ive turned wrenches for years but not much on diesels ,, Keep the vids coming please
You guys are awesome! When I made my first couple videos, I never thought it would turn into something like this, and we couldn't have done it without all y'all! I hope to keep making videos for as long as y'all keep watchin' them!
A spring from a truck Break is about same size i think, 30 Pound or 13 Kilo. and 2,6 inch or 6.5 cm long.
How much boost before you have to stud the head?
I hear 45 psi
It works like a compressor bleed valve on a Jet Engine. I love how you thought outside the box on this. My only complaint cern would be duplicating repeatability on spring free length and tension specs. ( as cycle and fatigue along with ambient temperature along with heat transfer to the spring)......what if you reduced the apex diameter at the waste poet with a metered orifice like a washer tack welded in place?
Thank you! Like I said, I really like how these guys work. I've never had any issues with boost pressures drifting, though I wouldn't be surprised if you had to give the spring half a crank a couple months after the initial install. On the '96, I've enlarged the internal gate to 32mm and it still works very well. I've also got this exact unit that I made in the video on a '94 and it's working very well too. Overall I'm just very happy with how they work straight out of the box. I'd be curious how installing an orifice would affect the boost pressure over the RPM range. I'm currently of the mind that the bigger the wastegate port the better based on my experience with mine when I had it stock sized, then opened it up to 25mm then up to 32mm.
Also, truth be told, this Spring-gate design wasn't my idea. I got the general idea from some guys running them on HE351's and such.
Well I respect any idea tht has the potenti to simplify the industry and break out of need to buy overpriced complications tht can be solved Inna garage and a beer
I've had the same concept for years just nvr took the time to break it all down trial and error...
Good job I w HV to watch more videos from u ....
I'm working on a double flow double pressure fuel sys for my common rail rt now and IAM running into extremely high egts flat ground no load. And my air restriction gauge is always pegg'd in the red .. so I've bn assembling a duel filter stem and tryna to make the room and hv a heat barrier is been quite a bitch...plus the boost cntlr. Aux fuel pump filter reg etc I had to ditch the windshield wiper res and coolent res ...well relocate both out of a 89 Honda Accord did the trick I be bn having this thought / fantasy of slapping a 2.0 liter mechanical turbo / supper chrgr pre turbo intake and moving up to a 73-75 mm. Compressor. Have any thoughts on any of the above mentioned / input I'm ina creative lull on overload with all the niffty ideas projects ive created
Question. Isn't this just pretty much bypassing the wastegate? Couldn't you achieve the same results by unplugging and closing off boost reference?
When u plug line then waste gate blows past spring pressure at 30.. this gets u past 30
Will this work on a cummins 8.3 mechanical, with a hx40 turbo?
Yes.. I did it in diesel pusher.. dog at 325.. 40 psi it’s strangely fast.. many people turned up 8.3 and put many miles.. no issues if u have 3060 tranny
Our hx40 good to 40 psi safely.. p pump on 8.3 will do 500 hp with simple adjustments… and I and others have beat on them 100,000 miles.. no I’ll effects..unless tranny isn’t 3060
Hi, the actuator for my wastegate is not holding pressure. The wastegate flapper is shut closed. But the actuator rod does move and open the wastegate when I applied pressure to the actuator. The flapper has no play and sits tight. Can a stucked CLOSED wastegate flapper cause P0299 code. I am getting a P0299 with closed wastegate flapper. Is this possible? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
im not quite convinced. short term this seems like a great idea. over time though the head will weaken that spring changing your settings quite a bit and could cause major problems. or am i incorrect about this.
Thats whem you just tighten the nut again..
Awesome video, the music not so much sorry man.
Can't argue with that... Someday I'll have this all figured out, but that is not this day.
@@CumminsWorks What's to figure out? No music. None. Zero. Nix the music. It's an unnecessary distraction.
any idea why my 05 24v grid heater light dings 8 times when truck is fully warmed up going 60? no code or engine light comes on, truck runs fine execept when the light comes on, it stays on for 2 minutes then shuts off and truck runs fine
Unfortunately CR's aren't my forte. after doing some digging I did find this:
"NUMBER: 18-006-12GROUP: Vehicle Performance
DATE: February 04, 2012
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 18-011-11 REV. B. , DATED JULY
1, 2011, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE
HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE ADDITIONAL OVERVIEW AND
DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION.
HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS
AVAILABLE BY SELECTING “HELP” THEN “HELP CONTENTS” AT THE TOP OF
THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW.
THE wiTECH SOFTWARE LEVEL MUST BE AT RELEASE 12. 02 OR HIGHER TO
PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE.
THE DRBIII® FLASH FILES FOR THIS BULLETIN ARE AVAILABLE ON
DealerCONNECT.
SUBJECT:
Flash: Diagnostic Enhancements For Fuel System
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin provides Engine Control Module (ECM) software enhancements to improve
robustness to fuel system issue detection and two new Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's).
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module
(ECM) with new software.
Diagnostic procedures for these new DTC's are included in this Service Bulletin on the last
2 pages which may be printed.
The two new injector Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) for excessive injector return flow
are:
· P1222 - LEAK DETECTION DURING MOTORING
· P1223 - LEAK DETECTION BASED ON QUANTITY BALANCE
**When the fault(s) occur, a solid Wait to Start lamp will illuminate in the cluster along with
chiming 10 times. When the fault goes inactive, it will clear the wait to start lamp with no
chimes**."
Can you double check you don't have any codes? Some may not illuminate the check engine light.
Due to my limited knowledge in this area, I would recommend going on a forum and posting your question there as you'll be able to pick the brains of people who have seen this a thousand times.
I hope it works out! Take care.
Had same problem. Was 2 injector tubes loosing pressure tightened them down no problems now
What I need to do get more horsepower sir in my m11?
I personally hate spring waste gates .I can never seem to control them properly on compound setups. They either open early allowing a leak or late making boost creep. That's me . Many have great results with them I've read though .
seem like you know your stuff. definitely subscribing
the reason for vaccum waste gate are to dump unwanted pressure after you let off throttle by doing this you are holding heat inside exhaust chambers and will cause melt down, If you want more psi add bigger turbo and intake let engine breath and engine will gain hp my stock hx 35 I got 35 psi stock waste gate by letting engine breath add more fuel too. DO NOT DO THIS to your engine
On a gas engine, this is possible. But on a diesel engine the stock wastegate opens with pressure, vacuum can not open it. So it will never open at idle. On a 12 Valve the way the wastegate is designed it limits boost to ~20 psi, but starts to crack the wastegate open at around 10 psi. So once you throw a boost elbow on it, it'll make 35 psi, but starts to crack open at ~15psi. What that means is once you hit 15 psi, some of the exhaust is being wasted by bypassing the turbine, so in order to spool it further, you'll need more fuel which is more heat and more smoke. This spring gate keeps it closed till around 25 psi which means it will spool faster cooler and cleaner.
what spring did you use here
I have a 2500 06 turbo diesel truck and I’m wondering will by doing this will it work really well ?
My buddy blew a hx35 all stock 12v put a hx40 on it and just plugged it and welded it shut no actuator at all so it keeps building boost and says he just watches the gauges and doesn’t push it to far.. is the residual boost left inside bad? Or cause high egts? Seems even more gutless then before lol seems like it’s fighting to spool down almost??
The Hx40 has a bigger turbine housing so it wont spool as fast as his old HX35 ....it will seem doggyer till the revs are up.
Could u make me one of those plates and what pound spring and how big was it
I just did this with my truck but my boost controller arm was damaged so I had to use a slightly different setup which doesn't allow the spring to be set as tight.
Engine seems a little flat in gears 1-3 and then pulls hard in 4th.
Should I try a stronger spring?
That's a typical automatic, everyone I've ever driven lunges into OD. You're fuel cutting at 20 psi, get a boost fooler and you'll be down the road.
@@zachglick502 Thanks Zach; I should have mentioned that I had just swapped in a 5 speed when I posted that.
Maybe it's just me but having to shift manually makes me more aware of what the engine is doing.
I finally put a temporary gauge on the boost line (just a fuel pressure gauge) and I'm getting just north of 35psi; I should probably back off on the spring.
My principle shortcoming was that I'm pretty much a gas engine motorhead. I had little awareness of the (stock) governor.
It's working just the way it should.
What spring weight did you use? Already did the spring mod using a 11.5lbs spring
The spring I use has a working range from 12.9 to 30 pounds. More details can be found here: www.mcmaster.com/#9628k58/=162m1ba
If you need more spring tension and have extra room, these slightly longer springs can also be used.
www.mcmaster.com/#9628k29/=162m4dm
Thanks for watching!
CumminsWorks until when in your rpm range do you start making boost I have my 3 inch eye bolt tight all the way I can hit 32psi if I really romp on the pedal but if I'm just cruising along with barely any pedal in it I can get from 0-4 psi in stop and go traffic up at 2000 rpm, and can get to 15psi if I put my foot in it a little more I have a 98.5 24 valve with a 5 speed
CumminsWorks should I just roll with it like this not to interested in hp until I get my 150s in just looking for some good mileage me being in college and all
Here's a graph of Boost/Drive Pressure vs RPM from back when I had this setup installed.
s20.postimg.org/wftq77lkd/screenshot_68.png
That's with a 96 12 valve in 4th gear flooring it from 900 RPM.
If you've got stock fueling, then what you describe sounds fairly normal. Checking for boost leaks and fuel pressure wouldn't hurt though.
CumminsWorks not stock have a airdog 150 and edge juice w attitude cts2 have it on 4x3 with my air dog at a steady 17psi from idle to wot... you think maybe a lil stiffer spring
What is your maximum turbo pressure? I have a 7.3L PowerStroke with a Garret TP38 turbo. Maximum pressure is 23 psi. I want to switch to a bigger turbo. for more PSI.
This is a Dodge Cummins site or for people that have swapped in the 5.9/6.7 L6 in whatever, Not a NO POWER Smoke site. Just kidding, the thing is, the old 7.3 DID, not the early version of the 6.9/7.3 was and is still a good hunk of iron unlike what came as replacement, 6.0,up those engines could last almost as long as a Cummins but that doesn't happen very much. Anyhow, with the PowerStroke the fuel is electronically controlled on all engines, so if you want more boost, you need the ECM tune modified. For the Cummins it is all mechanical until the Pump was replaced with a VP44 or the Common rails came out.
Will this stop turbo barking?
It may reduce it slightly, but I wouldn't market it as such.
Im new to this but can anyone explain me what do i need to do to increse power of my turbo so my car can run good at low rmp. OR with this test i got more power with higher rmp. or im getting both?
Is this on a gas or diesel engine? On a diesel engine, depending on your setup, this should increase your boost/power at all RPM's, but should have better low RPM performance than most of your typical boost controlling devices currently available. Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with performance parts on gas engines, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, and wouldn't increase performance. I would check out a forum that deals with the engine you're wishing to increase the power on, and ask them there thoughts. Either way though, when installing any boost controlling device, make sure to watch the boost gauge and insure everything is operating within they're limits. And thanks for watching!
CumminsWorks well its bmw e46 320d so i should move away from this vacume actulator with nuts? If u know what i mean,
CumminsWorks less its opens more power or more its opens more power?
It is a diesel! With a diesel, you don't make power by adding boost. But more boost does allow you to add more fuel which does increase power! Picture boost like a key, fuel is the door knob, and power is on the other side of the door. ideally you'd have the key, which then allows you to easily and safely turn the door knob and get to your power. If you don't have a door knob for the key, there's no point in having a key. Or likewise, without the key, you may be able to get your get at the power, but you'll likely break something in the process.
With the wastegate closed, it forces more exhaust through the turbine which drives it harder increasing boost. So by increasing the spring tension (tightening the nut) the wastegate stays closed longer thus increasing boost.
If your stock wastegate actuator is working well and giving you the results you're wanting, there isn't a huge reason to swap it out, but if you're wanting to up the boost a little, the method shown in the video is very simple, effective and reliable.
Take care.
Im not sure it's a good idea to do this to a TDI. BMW's are especially finicky, and the system tends to go nuts due to factory tunes. The only way to do this safely is to 1. Use custom tunes, and 2. A larger turbo. Most European car's are built with very tight tolerance, especially if it's a VGT turbo, and most are.
It's hard to get any more power out of a BMW diesel engine becouse there's just not much of an aftermarket support. Tunes and turbo are about all you can get.
I've spent almost a year looking into this debating on getting one, but, it just isn't there like an American diesel engine has I.E. Cummins, powerstroke, duramax, international and CAT.
As a BMW owner and a diesel owner ( 2 7.3s, 1 24v cummins), if you want to build and play, stick to the big 3, much more options and far less stress on the bank accounts.
Tunes for a BMW are way more expensive, way more, starting out at around 2500 and up.
I see know why there is that little hole on the top of turbo, is for the air of wastegate to exit, wright? Mechanic is not really difficult. thx Man
So when your accelerating and let off the pedal, you'll have 30psi sitting there? Won't that ruin something overtime?
Excellent Question! The turbo is driven by the heat in the engine's exhaust. At little load, you don't inject much fuel, so the fire is small not making much heat, with only a little heat, the turbo doesn't make much boost. At full load, you're injecting lots of fuel, so the fire is very large making lots of heat so the turbo spools. If enough fuel is injected, the turbo will try to make too much boost, causing it to overspeed and potentially blow up, that's when the wastegate comes in to limit boost to prevent failure.
You can watch this video to see how boost acts with this setup.
The top gauge is EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), this is the exhaust temp going into and feeding the turbo.
Second from the top is Boost, this is the pressure that the turbo is making that's feeding the engine and making more power!
Third from the top is Drive Pressure, This is the pressure of the exhaust gas feeding the turbo.
ua-cam.com/video/Mh2za4VoOAU/v-deo.htmlm
Hopefully this answered your question, if not let me know!
That's definitely not what he asked. He was asking about the residual pressure when letting off the throttle, after building boost.
can you do a video on how to adjust the boost with the system you just showed ? Id like to get a spring and eyelet ( not ssure on the spring tension tho ( or spring size ) But great video..
also If I put a 4 or 5 inch exhaust on my 97 dodge will it affect boost or create an issue? Thanks
I sure can, I shot a video a couple months back of doing just that, but the footage didn't turn out the way I wanted. But I can give it another shot. A link to the spring I used is in the description of the video, you may be able to get a spring from a hardware store or a tractor supply. Putting a larger exhaust on shouldn't have any negative effects. Depending on your setup, It may increase boost 1 psi at most.
I like to make my own eyelets that's a low-profile design for added adjustment and easier installation, would you have any interest in me sending you an eyelet and spring? Or heck, even the whole bracket and mounting hardware if you'd like? I'd have to look at what my costs are, but it wouldn't be much.
Take care and Thank Your for your Support and Ideas!
Sure !! In fact I'll shoot ya message .!! Thanks Bro !!!!
@@CumminsWorks I would like to know your cost. I have a 95 3500 12v with hx35
I just bought a 96 ram 3500 the kid has everything wide open on it and the actuator is bad how accurate its the boost reading in regards to spring tension right now currently with the spring used i get about 12. For boost
Boost directly correlates to spring tension. If you want more boost, you gotta increase the spring tension. With only 12 psi, you probably need a stiffer spring.
+CumminsWorks thanks ive been up all night undoing what a child has done to the poor girl so I can get it right and if this will work out till I have funds for a new turbo then you sir are a genius
Have to take my exhaust manifold off, not looking forward to it.....12 valve
Legendary Eagle a lot of fuckin heat and a lot of pb blaster😂😂
Hey Great vid. I have got 1998 12 valve, you think it has a wastegate? To lazy look right now. Thanks!!
Yes, sir, it should!
Also. Will it make a sound when you let off the throttle when you do this mod? Like a "flutter" of some sort?
If you're heavily into the throttle and then instantly let off, then yes it will, simply due to the higher boost pressure. Though a spring-gate would theoretically not do it as much as other boost controllers due to the faster reaction time of the gate. This is a good thing because that flutter is know as "turbo bark" and can damage the turbo.
What/where to get this spring?
Hey My brotha , Youre a Great mechanic - great setup - But when are you going to give us a video on the spring tension ? I have an automatic and want all the boost I can get without transmission problems - My truck has 178K on the trans.. also your antifreeze filter setup... TTYL
Thank ya Sir! I've been working on a video regarding the issue with your truck, should be done within the next couple days, after that, the spring tension adjustment is on my short list. Just to clarify though, more boost is only really needed if you're increasing the fueling as well. So unless you've turned up the injection pump, more boost isn't necessary and won't yield any HP gains. Take care man!
Thanks Bro , you know you have a place to kick off your shoes in TN
How do you seal off whatever from your old wastegate?
What year cummins did this come off of?
It's off a '96, but 94 to early '98 should be identical.
What is the difference in the Map sensors in 1999 from the 2003, can they interchange? anybody know?
They are considerably different. Here's a link to both.
www.genosgarage.com/product/sensor-4921497/engine-sensors-2
www.genosgarage.com/product/sensor-3971106/engine-sensors-3
Thanks, now,I put a 03 cummings in a 99 truck that had a cummings in it with a 3 bar map,what can I do to keep it 3,or do I have to run the 4 bar map that came with the 03?
I'm not really the guy to ask, but if you're using a 03 engine and ECU, I would stick with the 03 map sensor.
Thanks
lolz non waste gated dinosour turbo all the way
I've got a 1st Gen 18cm housing on my truck right now and bro it's doo doo!!!
A man breaking parts I hate that word ha ha ha and is very costly
You kinda sound like Mordecai from Regular Show... Just an observation.
He does indeed
Nja. Standart spring stabilise turbo gass Exit. Over time, the wear of a spring can, of course, replace another. But there is a problem. During Turin, 200 to 950 degrees of normal springs heat up such temperatures. Better to put this kind of original. It has been tested in life. BMW Drifta E39 tds 530
Would this work on a 1991 cummins
It would if your 1991 has a wastegate. In stock form, I don't think it does.
Why don't you just weld the waste gate?
With a welded wastegate, it can no longer function. The wastegates job is to A)prevent catastrophic failure of the turbo by overspeeding, and B)give you the ability to tune the boost to achieve the most performance from your system. Some people will weld the wastegate shut because it will increase spooling ever so slightly, and they're OK with keeping an eagle eye on the gauges to prevent over-boosting. However, that is when compaired with the stock wastegate actuator, or when using a boost elbow. Using the method in the video, the turbo should spool just as quickly as if it was welded.
Nice video you said 0 fabrication dude its ok just kiding
awesome guys! can i use this method on Garret GT2556V?
I would not recommend using this method no. Your GT2556V appears to use a vane system to alter the AR of the turbine housing, which is a superior method to the simple wastegate as shown in the video, but can be trickier to control.
ca you tell me how to control it without electronics, just trying to put gt2556v(bmw) on my discovery 1 2.5l tdi (also VE pump :D), Thx guys!
Gt 2556v has vacuum wastegate, can i put a Boost wastegate?
I bet that the actuator already on it is indeed boost actuated.
it's vacuum from bmw e39 530 2003 , the question is , it will work at 25psi if i change it to boost actuated? thanks!
This would be great...IF the boost sensor (MAP sensor) didn't shut fuel down when it sees 20psi. You could weld your waste gate shut, and you'd ONLY make 20psi.
Now, you will get faster spools with a tighter wastegate, but not higher boost pressures. You'll spool faster, but also defuel faster as well (the MPA sensor feeds info to the ECM that tells the injector pump to shut fuel down)
And that, is where the boost fooler comes in handy, ehyo!
@@zachglick502 boost foolers are good for two things. 1: black smoke, 2: throwing codes 😁
The ECM will sense a loss of proper feedback, or other sensors will counteract the map sensor and you'll lose boost/power again. Boost foolers are about a smuch as a power adders as big wheels are on Jeep's. They may look cool, but that parking lot doesn't pose much of a threat to anyone but fan boys
@@MrGhostVortex Interesting, considering its a simple additional circuit of resistors and capacitors, the ECM would see exactly what you want it to see.
@@zachglick502 MAPs isn't the only sensor feeding the ECM regarding fuel....
@@MrGhostVortex I don't see how on a mechanical injection engine. The only time I could see the ECU getting upset is on newer common rail trucks, but even 3rd gen common rail Cummins trucks can have compound turbos and no tune with no codes. Trucks with VP44 ECU's correct based on pedal position and MAP, given commanded load. Therefore a fooler would simply simulate a high load command scenario, by relaying that the MAP is still within the ECU's limitations, and the ECU given pedal position and RPM would adjust injection timing and pulse width to match.
ok.this is more like a trial and error thing finding that spring to work the same as the diaphragm inside the actuator
could i do this with my stock 96 cummins? will it destroy anything?
As long as you have a boost gauge and keep boost at a safe level, you can do it on any turbo. The stock safe limit for the 94-98 12 valves Cummins is around 35 psi with the stock turbo. Though on a stock truck, there isn't much point in increasing boost unless you plan on upping the fueling as well.
Take care and thanks for watching!
CumminsWorks guess i got to upgrade the injectors first. 100hp injectors.
You can also just play with pump adjustments for free! There's enough adjustments in the pump for quite a bit of fun! If do have to be a little careful about slipping clutches though.
CumminsWorks you should post a video. that would be awesome.... im learning watching videos. . 👍
I hope to soon! My editing computer is down for a motherboard right now, but once it's back up and running I hope to tackle some more how-to's! Thank you for your ideas and support!
Why wouldn't u just unplug the vacuum line and plug it off. Wastegate will not open when line is unplugged.
This setting only for diesel!!!
My god must be some good coke t t t t t today junior,,,,,,,,,,, smells good
Cool mod bud. Tnx
Ever heard of a wire wheel and paibt?? Lol smdh
M.
yeah, i'm sure.....NOT !
Just buy a bigger turbo 😲 your deleting all the safety for you turbo by doing this!
Am I not sure I understand your comment. Did you mean "Safety Margin"? If so, then, well, sorta. But there are thousands of people running there HX35's at 35psi, with very few reporting issues. Whenever you turn something up to make it faster you're removing some safety margin, whether that's engines, turbos, or computers. If you meant "Safety Features", then well not really as the gate is still very functional, it just won't open until a higher PSI now.
If it was as simple as buying a larger turbo, then it'd be a no-brainer, but I don't want the extra lag a bigger turbo would have. So instead I'm working on building a compound turbo system to hopefully get the best of both worlds. But this mod alone is very simple and should easily support 300-350hp.
Does this work on a 2017 dodge 6.7 cummins?