TOYOTA CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER Diagnose Remove & Replace tutorial! DIY 4x4 22R 22RE
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2019
- Amazon affiliate links below to products and tools I use in the video (or talk about) below. (I wasn't sponsored to make this video by any product or company, but if you go to Amazon from one of these links and end up making a purchase, I'll get a commission from Amazon on the sale. No extra cost to you.) -Pete
Vacuum caps: amzn.to/2JU6MYg (Toyota hard lines are generally 3/16" (4.75mm) in diameter. You should be able to just go to a local auto parts store and get some, but if you can't, this assorted pack on Amazon should get the job done.)
Flare nut wrenches: amzn.to/2HN7QLV (You may want to look around and get a bigger set that will have the larger sizes you will need to work on the power steering high pressure lines also. Just thinking ahead.)
Mity-Vac testing and bleeding system: amzn.to/2HPbtAG
Multi-pack of wire detailing brushes: amzn.to/2U7OYxG (You can't have enough of these laying around the shop.)
Maxima waterproof grease: amzn.to/2TZZ5Dq
Toyota FSM = Toyota Factory Service Manual - Авто та транспорт
Quick tip, the rubber plug that comes in the new cylinder can be used to cap the line, it will have a slow drip on it; but isn't bad if you're trying to save a few bucks on a cap pack
One of the best videos I've seen on replacing and bleeding a clutch slave cylinder. Very well filmed.
Even though I know how to diag this and replace it, I still like watching your toyota videos!
A nice instruction. Very thorough / professional. From looking for a wet cylinder to the cap to catch the fluid. Be safe wear safety glasses. Most people are allergic to brake fluid. You don't want it on your clothes or shoes or dog. Keep a rag handy as it will easily eat the paint off your car. Careful not to rub your eyes. Well done Pete. Thanks
1992 Toyota 22re 4 cylr. Clutch lost all of it's dot3 fluid. Replaced Master, couldn't get it to prime. So I did the slave cylinder also. No obvious leakage. But after 200k miles I figured it was shot. So replaced the slave. I put 5/16 clear tube on the slave bleeder. Put it above the system. Closed the bleeder on the slave. After not getting prime I pulled vac in the full cup of the master. Low and behold I could feel the pedal get harder as I pumped. I was able to start the truck with no worry about it moving. Thanks Pete. That was a tough one. Not sure what made the difference but glad it's done. Getting to cold out.
Thanks Wheelie Pete , you need more subs , you've saved me a few times from just throwing the entire truck away ,🏄🌊🤓
Man I just love your videos! They're clear and easy to understand. Definitely have helped me fix a few things on my truck. Thanks man!
Good video.
I was bleeding the clutch on my 94 pickup for hours before noticing that my clutch fork had cracked. Perfect timing for a new clutch and rear main seal!
That bumper/rock slider combo is legit! Thanks for the video. Bout to do my ‘86
Thanks for making this video, I followed the instructions and changed my master and slave cylinder, went exactly as described! Thanks man!
This happened to me on the trails out on the Sonoran Colorado desert yesterday! It was a long trip home... Excellent video, will be doing the same this week on my Toyota!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Best vid on UA-cam. I felt confident about changing the slave cylinder on my car but bleeding the fluid stuff scare me. This vid gives me maximum confidence. Thanks for posting and sweet rig.
Toyota has a slave cylinder rebuild kit that is so inexpensive and simple to install that it makes a lot of sense to thoroughly clean and rebuild the cylinder with this OEM kit, particularly on a high mileage car.
(If there is accumulated "varnish" on the cylinder wall, this can be removed with lacquer thinner and Q-tips using a needle nose pliers or a hemostat, since brake cleaner really doesn't cut it.
The push rod may be difficult to get into the new replacement boot supplied in the kit, so the tight rubber seal may be stretched open using needle nose pliers.
Oh wow! Thank you so much! Such a hard topic to get information on. I was so worried about the fluid and how long it would take solo. I also didn't know if it had to be dialed in appropriately. I know the clutch has specific tools and gauges. Saving me hundreds of dollars here!
Very clear and informative video. Gonna do this on my 87 Starlet in a few days since it decided to give out today. Looks like I'll have it easy, since it's right at the front of the engine bay in my car.
Thanks for the instructions!
Great instruction, video, and pictures. Very knowledgable on ways to do things right.
Good job narrating your video. Easy to follow your steps.
I have driven only Toyotas for years and can do most of the work. My 2001 Celica has no manual !!! Chilton, Haynes, etc. So working online.
Clutch was replaced 10 months ago. Clutch on the 5 speed won't let me get OUT of 1st or second gear especially when cold.
Our local Toyota dealership has a GREAT shop foreman. He is recommending I change the fluid first because, quick, cheap, easy.
The YT videos have not been great until I found this one. Good camera work, lighting, script, audio ... THANKS.
Great job Pete - well sorted and planned out.
Great video! I had to do this two years ago on my 84 along with the master. If your short solid line to your slave is buggered or you just want to get rid of it, you can eliminate the hard line by using a braided stainless rear break line straight from the firewall to the slave.
Yes! Good tip. Since the rear flexible brake line has one male and one female end you can attach the male flexible brake line to the slave cylinder, and then run the female up to the firewall where the upper hard line's flare nut fitting (and mount) is, eliminating the little hard line that is mounted on the engine. Although, that looks like it might be a really fun time getting that fitting put together up behind the engine on the firewall. The rear brake lines can also be installed in-line with a normal front brake line to make extra long brake lines for long travel suspension. I did a video on that years ago... ua-cam.com/video/2MeqSGE6P-0/v-deo.html
Video was super informative and easy to understand every step of the way! Thanks :)
Thank you very much for this video. I really appreciate real time / human error installing.
Thank you for this video! It helped me work on my 1992 Toyota Paseo.
Awesome video!!! Hopefully I'll save some money this weekend doing this myself
Thank you very much for your excellent work. Thank you for your excellent tutorial, I very happy because today I have learned a new thing. Now if I know how to reemplace a clutch slave cylinder thank you again fellow.
Excellent video, doing this and the master clutch on my 2004 Corolla then possible on a 2000 Tacoma later on, I have seen other videos some folks pre fill the cylinders with brake fluid but seems not necessary. I do have a pneumatic tool to circulate the fluid as I intend to replace it with new fluid in the system, I am putting new brake pads as well front and back; both cars shares the brake fluid with the clutch cylinders.
Is worth every second,thank you for a good explanatory video.may just add a block on each side of the tires for the newbies.and under tools to use the G-Pro.
Thank you i may try fixing this myself. That was a really good video.
"once you get over your denial...." hahahaha i almost died laughing!
Youre the man thank you for being so specific.
Mine failed on Christmas Eve, right before me going to a dinner😂
I was able to get the part/fluid/tubing at AutoZone & I changed it in the rain, on the street in less than an hour💪🏽
You should do a video of a walkthrough of your truck, I would definitely watch it. That truck is very nice too by the way!
Wheelie Pete you are my new God
Great video, very simple to follow
Thanks for sharing your video..I'm in Australia and have a 1998 SR5 Hilux 4x4 2.7L petrol..A couple of days ago the clutch pedal went straight to the floor..Had never had this happen in any vehicle before..I put the ute in neutral hopped out and pulled the pedal up by hand..When i got home i checked and can't see leakage anywhere. I drove it again today and the clutch did lose pressure slightly but pulled the pedal up with my foot..It still drives but at least now i know roughly what i'm up against, so sincerely thanks again..
Bloody great video
great video I had the exact issue and it help thank you sr
Thank you for the video on this. My dad has Toyota Condor 4x4 and it sounds like the slave cylinder needs attention. Thanks all the way down south in Cape Town, South Africa.
Thank you so much for your help!
Great video 👍🏽
Great video! Thank you.
FANTASTIC VIDEO!!!!
Love your vids, I like to not have the slave cylinder bolted on so I can more easily thread the line on then bolt it on after line connected.
Nice "how to", just a tip: When I need a wrench quickly (like when were removing the cap) I have a magnet place strategically holding the tip of the wrench, so I don't have to fish for the wrench while taking a fluid shower. Also, +1 on not pinching the whose, specially on a old one.
That's a great idea!
Great vid! Looks like your in the NW from the wheelin pics at the end
Very informative video thanks
Great video thanks !
Excellent ...i had one and oso opel frontera 2.2 16 v 1997 ...! One thing dyna engine is good .
Very cool. Thanks !
Very useful Video. Great camera work too. let me see what I needed to see.
Sure, you are a true professional..! Both mechanically and video.. I would have I said a lot more dings Dangs and Dangs.. vocals.. absolutely excellent..!
SIR...
great video. thank you
Very informative thank you
Awesome video thanks
Great video. Wish it had captions. Watching in a library with no sound..thks. jc
Nice video 👍👍
Thank you very much!
great video - thanks from Pakistan
THANKYOU
Great video..Thks..jc
Thanks
Love how much room you get inside to work on the master cylinder. My 06 Toyota is super cramped.
The old trucks had a good amount of working room. Not so much on the newer cars/trucks that's for sure...
Another video I seen the guy used plastic to seal the master cylinders reservoir to slow the flow which seemed to work well
You just got a subscriber off of this video buddy. Good video. I’m one of the mechanics kinda between shade tree and I’ll break it before I fix it.
Keen man
Hey buddy awesome video, my 5speed has a soft pedal and is really hard to impossible to go into gear
My first impression would be that if the pedal is soft and it won't go into gear that you have air in the system. Have you tried bleeding it? Pell back the boot on the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid under the boot. If there is, then it's a slow leak and if fluid is getting out, air can get in. Also look under the dash at where the clutch master cylinder attaches to the pedal. See if it's leaking there also. If either are leaking they will need to be replaced.
I replaced quite a few slave cylinders it seems like if you get the wrong brand The shifting is gnocchi It almost works but not quite
Is this lithium grease the same kind as you would use for ball joints? Thks..jc
Brilliant, thanks for sharing... Wondering if this will be the same on a 2000 Camry 5 speed?
I've never done one on a Camry, but the repair principles should be the same.
I wish you had an affiliate link to toyota clutch slave cylinder kit.
Nice job! Thank you.
Only thing I'd think about is how about connecting the line to the slave cylinder first and then bolting the SC to the truck?
You can do that, but you'll need to leave the hard line and fitting a little loose so they'll rotate into optimal position when you hold the SC up and bolt it into position, then you can tighten the fitting down. It's just my personal preference to have the cylinder mounted so I can feel the inverted flare press up against the sealing cone and then bring the fitting down on the back of the flare.
شكرا الترجمة
Was watching, really good instructing, was wondering tho, what kind of grease you used to lubricate the end peice under the rubber sleeve?
Any grease that is safe for seals and o-rings will work. I work on motorcycles a lot so I always have a tub of Maxima Waterproof Grease around the shop bench. It's a good heavy grease that won't wash out and is safe on seals and such. Amazon link: amzn.to/2Em2J54
had my master take a dump on me about two weeks ago...clutch pedal would stick to the floor not fun when driving in the city...decided to replace the master and slave
Not a bad idea to replace both when the master goes down. Gotta bleed the whole system anyway at that point.
Really helpful video. Is this how its done on basically all vehicles? I'm trying to chang mine om my 2003 is200, but I couldn't find any tutorials on that specific model. Thank you if you answer :D
Generally most cars are the same idea as this video. However some slave cylinders are internal meaning inside the transmission bell housing. If this is the case the transmission will need removed unless there is an access plate. To locate the slave cylinder, find the master cylinder attached to the firewall opposite side of the clutch pedal (should be attached to the pedal), once located follow the lines off the master cylinder to find the slave cylinder. Hope that helps
Thank you for making this, but while replacing the slave cylinder I think I may have another issue I was wondering if you could help
First gen 4runner clutch pedal goes to floor, doesn't return.
Slave cylinder leaking so I decided to replace it.
Removed hard line from slave, no fluid comes out even though reservoir is full!
If fluid isn't leaking from the hard line something is blocking the fluid from draining from the clutch master. If the pedal is on the floor it could be possible the piston in the master cylinder is stuck so far forward that it's blocking the reservoir, keeping it from draining. There's probably a LOT of air in the system too. You're going to need to do a full bleed once you figure out what's up with the master cylinder.
Check every day for any drippings
Excellent video sir. Do you have one on the oil pump as well? I have an 86 w/ 22RE
This video is for the front main seal, but it's also how to remove and replace the oil pump on a 22R series: ua-cam.com/video/5eozfLpEJds/v-deo.html
@@WheeliePete answered my question. Thank you sir
Any ideas on why I still have a dead clutch after replacing a bad slave and master and bleeding the clutch? It just has no pressure.
It's either a bunch of air in the system still, or the piston in either the master or the slave cylinders is out of position or not extended to the point it's pushing the rod into the clutch fork. Did you have to really mess with the pedal linkage when you were putting in the new cylinders? Having to do lots of adjustment to the pedal linkage is a sign somethings not right with the way the master is mounted or the piston it out of position. I've seen some very goofy things happen over the years. I
Question - My clutch slave cylinder went on my 1988 4runner, so a lot of fluid leaked out to the point where i couldn’t see any fluid in the reservoir under the hood. It was well below the minimum line. I got a new slave cylinder and fluid and bleeding kit. My question is - will the process require any extra steps since more fluid drained in my case? Or will I be able to follow the same steps in the video, and just have to bleed it for longer since more air probably got in?
Thank you - from a grateful subscriber!
So what I would do is if the clutch master reservoir drained out and you suspect there is air in the system up there, I would first install the clutch slave. Then I would open the bleeder screw on the clutch slave with a hose attached from it to the bleeder kit reservoir. Start filling the clutch master cylinder reservoir and let it drain down, until you see straight fluid being pushed through the hose on the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. It would help if you have an extra person during this to keep and eye on the clutch master cylinder reservoir and keep it full as you are doing this. Once you see nothing but fluid coming out the bleeder screw with the hose on it. Close the bleeder screw and then test the clutch pedal and see how it feels. If it feels spongy or you have to pump it to build pressure you'll need to start in with pressure or vacuum bleeding just like you do with brakes.
For the master cylinder idk if u would say it's seepage. But I looked under the dash where u looked and it did feel a lil oily idk if that's ok or not. Back story tho, I was driving just fine and I went to down shift and I completely Lost the pedal, I have no pressure anymore. It was just fine before
Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. There shouldn't be any brake fluid at all coming out of the cylinder into the cab. You'll have to replace it and then bleed the system.
my AISIN 7mgte slave cylinder has 220,000 miles i m replacing it anyway but can it last longer?
I'd leave it alone until it starts leaking. Just have a spare ready to go. That's quite a life though on the original! If you can afford to buy AISIN again, I would.
my next project, thank you! what type of grease did you use?
I just used some bearing grease I had laying around. Just use something that won't wash out and is safe for rubber seals. I think I specifically used Park bicycle bearing grease because I have a huge tube of it right next to the work bench. You are basically just trying to coat surfaces that will rust and provide a little lubrication between the pushrod of the clutch slave and the throwout bearing fork arm.
Do you think Silicon paste will be ok?
I’ve got an MR2T that squeaks loudly when I first start it with the clutch engaged. It never does it after that though. This started when I replaced my Master, slave and fluid. I know it’s bled properly but when I get up under there I can push the clutch farther away from the flywheel by hand. One of the MR2 specialty shops makes an extended piston for the slave cylinder. You think that would help?
It’s a serious PITA to change on a midengine car plus the turbo is in the way. I’ve done it on my turbo Celica ST-205 a few times in minutes but it takes hours on the MR2 so I don’t want to do it again if the extended slave piston isn’t going to help.
I've never had the pleasure of working on a mid-engine car. I bet it's a treat (sarcasm). I've had squeaking with a clutch before but it's usually the throwout bearing or the ears of the clutch fork being dry against the throwout bearing cradle and then when press the clutch I get a squeak. Fixing either of those things means dropping the tranny. When you say you can move the clutch away from the flywheel you mean moving the arm so it pulls the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate fingers right? I can see where a longer push rod from the slave might take up some of that slack, but I'm not sure where the squeak is coming from. Have you got under there and had someone push on the clutch with the car off and see if the squeak is in the arm pivot? If it's squeaking only when the car is running I'd be leaning towards the throwout bearing. Since you changed the slave and master recently and re-bled everyrthing, it might be just applying more force to the bearing intitally, or it might be engaging quicker, or in a slightly different spot. Tough one to pin down and the lack of working room just makes it that much worse...
WheeliePete
Yes, that’s a better explanation. It actually sounds as if the clutch is only partially engaged and rubbing on the flywheel even though the pedal is depressed. It only does this on start-up. I can try getting someone to push the clutch and start the car while I hold the arm at full extension. Unfortunately, I’m the only mechanical person I know, so that’ll be difficult. I thought about bypassing the clutch switch and starting it in neutral without the clutch.
It really is a PITA to change that slave and the bleeder valve is located almost a foot lower on a bleed block where the rubber line starts. I wonder if there isn’t still air trapped in the slave itself.
If the bleeder is lower than the slave there's probably air trapped in the slave or the line to the slave from the bleeder. Can you fill the slave and the line dangling them below the bleed block and then put them up into position? I bet there's a special procedure for dealing with this. You have a factory service manual for this car? I'm wondering if there's a special process for this one. If it was fine before the new master and slave, chances are it's something with the new installed parts. Air would keep the clutch from possibly disengaging as the air would compress and not let the slave push the arm as effectively.
Can you grease pin touch points on piston and arm after installed? Forgot this step and have a squeek now.
You should be able to, but you might have to un-bolt the cylinder from the engine to get the pin out. Make sure you do it reasonably quickly though as when you pull the piston rod out the piston in the slave cylinder may start moving out just from gravity on the fluid in the line. The squeak is more likely coming from the pivot point of the arm that goes into the transmission, or the clutch throw-out bearing, or contact points of the arm to the throw-out bearing housing inside the transmission bell housing. Those are inaccessible without dropping the transmission.
@@WheeliePete thanks for the reply. I figured its the rod to clutch fork since i had no noise prior to slave/master install. Thanks again.
I put on a new slave and bled it properly clutch engagement is spot on but bite is high?, could the push rod be a different size or do I need to adjust pedal?, thanks 😊
Not sure what you mean by "bite is high"? Do you mean you mean the pedal is too high (feeling) when you go to press on it and activate the clutch? You can adjust the height of the peal a bit under the dash by messing with the yoke from the clutch master cylinder to where it interfaces with the pedal, but that's about it. A properly bled system with fresh fluid and no air in it will begin moving the clutch arm almost immediately when you step on the clutch pedal.
@@WheeliePete to pull off in first gear the clutch doesn't engage until right at the top, bite is high so pulling off is different I'm not use to it, normally it like half way up like most cars, it wasn't that high before I changed the slave, it has been bled properly and new fluid put in, if it had air in I'm told it would be low it isn't, it drives great no slipping and gear change is silky smooth but feels weird, I'm told a pedal adjustment could help.
Yeah, if it had air it would take longer for the down pedal stroke to disengage the clutch because it would have to compress the air before it moved the fluid. You can sure try adjusting the pedal. That linkage is pretty easy to get to if you're able to get under the dash.
Question, my friction plate wont disengage when pedal is fully depressed. Flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate and concentric slave + bearring are replaced 2 months ago and have done 2500miles with them without any problem. The problem started occuring when a friend of mine launched my car from a standstill and wanted to shift to 2nd. I've checked the shifting mechanism, bleeded but none worked. In first gear with clutch pedal depressed to the floor and accelerating the car creeps forward when close to redline. The slave cylinder moves out instantly when I'm depressing the clutch pedal, also it doesn't slip
What i did notice is the level in the clutch resevoir is decreasing when the pedal is depressed and raises again when releasing (no leaks under the car or at the pedal)
Hmmm...I wish I could see it in person. If the rig is creeping forward with the clutch all the way in, then the clutch is not fully disengaging from the flywheel which means something in there isn't doing it's job. Could be a problem with the throwout bearing arm, but then you mentioned the fluid level chaining in the master cylinder reservoir and that got me thinking... The fluid level in the reservoir shouldn't move when you depress the pedal. The system, when filled and bled is just moving the same volume of fluid back and forth between the master and the slave pistons. The fluid in the reservoir is really there for bleeding purposes, and to replace any that leaks out if you have a slow leak, giving you a visual warning something's going wrong. It could be the master piston has a bad spot and you're pushing some of the fluid back up into the reservoir maybe? That would account for the changing fluid level as well as the clutch not disengaging. Just tossing out ideas here.
@@WheeliePete Haha thats kind of you, I asked a fellow saab 9-3 rider to check if his fluid lowers and raises when depressing and releasing the pedal. He said his doesn't.
Btw here are couple videos i made:)
ua-cam.com/video/rEwSidoYk1c/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/4DBcsVEktq0/v-deo.html
This job is much, much, much,harder than shown on a 1992 2 wheel drive. You have to completely compress the spring loaded slave cylinder all the way in and find a way to keep it compressed and be able to remove whatever you use to compress it after you bolt it in place. I used zip ties. It is so tight that you can barely get 2 hands in there and cannot fit a helper. One of the single worst jobs have have done on any truck .
It should not take much force at all to move the rod and piston back into the slave cylinder when you are mounting the new (dry) slave cylinder. You simply push the rod against the clutch fork and the rod will move the slave cylinder piston back a bit while you get the slave cylinder body lined up with mounting holes. If you look at time 19:13 in the video you can see the actual spring behind the piston, it's barely anything. Now, if the hydraulic line is installed and there's no air in the system you'd have to fight hydraulic pressure to push the piston back and that would be pretty hard. If for some reason you were trying to hook up a slave cylinder that is connected to the hydraulic system and full already, you could just crack the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder while you're trying to get it into position. That release of pressure would let the piston push backwards much easier why you try to line up the slave cylinder body with the bolt holes. (Put a hose on the bleeder screw to route fluid to a container when you crack the bleeder.) If you can't push the piston back inside a new (dry) slave cylinder with light pressure something is probably wrong with the part itself (at least as 22r series engines goes.)
I had to replace both the master and slave clutch cylinders. Once things warmup I could not shift, there was no external leakage and no drop in fluid. But we later found out that the fluid leak from one region to another internally.
If I replace the slave clutch, do I have to replace the master clutch also, and in the same time ? (Toyota 4runner 1994 SR5)
Nope. They are separate parts. If the master isn't leaking, no reason to replace it unless you just really want to.
@@WheeliePete Thx to your reply.
God bless you !
Hi Pete, long story short, 2015 Hilux ( europeean tacoma ) with 220k on the clock, and original clutch, everything works mint, no leaks, but the pedal it's hard as f$#$#$. I bleed the slave cylinder this morning, and for 10 min, the clutch pedal was operating very smothly, after that it went back to be hard again. can be the slave cylinder ? or i am just in the denial phase and it s the clutchit self ? thanks,
If it operated like normal and then hardened up it could be the master or slave. Maybe the piston in one of those two is freezing up? But yeah, at 220K on the clock that clutch is probably paper thin by now and is probably due, but I don't think it would cause a hard pedal like you are describing. That sure sounds like a hydraulic problem...unless the throwout bearing housing is frozen to the input shaft inside the bellhousing and is having a hard time sliding back and forth. If you end up doing a clutch job that stuff will all get cleaned up and replaced.
I have Original slave cylinder on my 86. It does not leak. Opinion on replacing it anyway? Already replaced clutch master cylinder. Thks..jc
I would leave it alone until it starts leaking. The only thing that can really fail are the seals so if it's not leaking the seals are still good. They don't tend to catastrophically fail so if you just check it once in a while (pull the boot back and look for brake fluid seepage/leakage) and then replace it once it starts to leak.
@@WheeliePete Ok, thanks for the info...jc
It might be less frustrating to connect the line to the slave cylinder before mounting the slave cylinder to the transmission.
It's about the same amount of frustration with the added bonus of having to hold the slave cylinder with one hand and trying to get the hard line fitting going with the other hand while fluid is draining over everything. Over the years I found that leaving the cylinder mounted and in a fixed position while undoing the clip to give the hard line some movement makes it easier to get the hardline fitting started into the cylinder. Leaving the slave cylinder mounted also lets you push the hard line through the fitting and seat the line flare against the cylinder cone and then screw down the fitting (doing that helps to #1 slow down the leaking and #2 makes getting the fitting started easier. You absolutely do not want to cross thread that fitting into the cylinder...
That dam denial
Could you have someone keep topping the master cyl. while your fighting to get the line below started?
You could do that. It drains pretty fast, but there's actually quite a bit of fluid up in that reservoir. If you managed to drain a whole reservoir trying to get the fitting back into the slave cylinder there would probably be something else wrong (like messed up threads on the fitting or the new slave.)
My hard lines are broken, what do? auto store guy sold me some rubber high pressure ones but no adaptor to fit into the slave cylinder?
You'll need to put in a new hardline. You can usually buy a long straight hard line with the right size fittings on it and a bending tool, but you'll have to bend it to fit your application. You can also hard line without the fittings and a flaring tool and make your own custom length hard lines, but it does take practice to get the flares right. If you go that route, watch a lot of tutorial videos and buy a quality flaring tool. The cheap ones will make your life miserable.
Could you tell me about your camera and audio setup? Also your upload settings (bitrate) because the quality is spot on!
So I think on that video I was using both my phone Pixel and a GoPro Hero8 to do the filming. I do most of the audio as voice over work during editing. I use a Samson Meteor mic on a boom for audio when doing voice over. I match my export bitrate settings when I render video to whatever the source video's bitrate was. I render and export the video from my editing software at the highest possible .mp4 settings my software will allow. I shoot in 2.7k and 4k, but I generally render to 2560x1440 which is the first UHD standard UA-cam will recognize and automatically apply the VP09 codec to instead of the crappy avc1 codec when they render (compress) the file that is uploaded to them. So basically, shoot in as high a resolution as you can, edit and render your master file in a bitrate as close to the source material as you can, upload a big file to UA-cam that is 2560x1440 or larger to force the VP09 codec be applied by UA-cam when they compress your source file for streaming. On a side note, I figured out a few years ago that upscaling my GoPro 1920x1080 60p action video to 2560x1440 60p and sharpening the image 10-15% in the editor and then uploading that to UA-cam would result in the VP09 codec being applied and the video would look soooooo much better on UA-cam playback. Upscaling the video from 1920x1080 to 2560x1440 didn't degrade the picture enough to be noticeable (sharpening in the editor helps also), but the difference in playback quality between the VP09 codec and the avc1 codecs that UA-cam uses is staggering. The VP09 codec can be applied to any video size, but UA-cam will only use it on 1920x1080 or smaller videos that are either getting lots of views, or are being posted by a popular channel. (Popular videos or channels being more worthwhile to UA-cam to take the time to apply the better VP09 codec). The VP09 codec will automatically be applied if the video is 2560x1440 or larger. You can see what codec has been applied to any video by right-clicking on the video window as it plays in UA-cam and then click "Stats for Nerds" and it will bring up a live stats window for the video's data in real time. I'll try and remember to put up a community post with a screenshot of the stats for nerds screen when I get home.
@@WheeliePete Im using an Insta360 One R for music and this is truly helpful information.
@@WheeliePete your video is super smooth and the audio is great considering it came from the Samson mic you seem to really know your equipment. What audio editor do you use?
@@setitzu I just looked at this video again and I shot a lot of this one with an upside-down GoPro strapped to my forehead (puts the GoPro view pretty close to between my eyes.) The audio for the live action shots was just what the GoPro picked up from the mic on the GoPro. It actually does quite well with audio when it's right near the source (my voice). The shots and video on the workbench are mostly voice over recorded during video editing. The video is a bit smoother because it was shot in 60 frame per second video. This one I actually recorded in 1920x1080, but because there wasn't any real fast action shots I didn't bother upscaling to 2560x1440 to get the vp09 codec. However, once this video started getting lots of views, UA-cam did run the video through and apply the vp09 codec because that's what the "Stats for nerds" window is showing the current codec is for the 1920x1080 60p video playback. My voice-over audio is just done in front of my editing computer and I use the audio editing utility in my software to work the audio tracks. My software lets me extract the audio tracks and adjust the levels, curves, tone, etc. inside the video as I'm making it. I use Magix Movie Edit Pro Premium (2021). I'm not in love with that software, there's better ones out there that are more user friendly, but I've been using Magix for many years through lots of different versions and I just know how to make it do what I want so I'm not in a hurry to learn a new software. This is the mic I use: amzn.to/3sCeLw1 And this is the boom I use to bring the mic up to my face when doing voice over: amzn.to/3sCeLw1 Basically it's just a microphone stand and the end of it screws into the bottom of the meteor mic, then I can cantilever it over in front of me. I do also use a pop filter in front of the mic to help cut down on noise: amzn.to/3j873Gy (Amazon affiliate links)
Im going to experiment shooting with more frames and see if the video looks better that way. I think it will and Im inspired. Thank you for all the valuable input!
Can you please help me!! I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that just got a new clutch installed. Once installed I noticed the clutch pedal was weak when pressing. I tried to bleed the system at the slave cylinder but couldn’t get it to keep pressure at the slave so I replaced the master cylinder. (Thinking it had weak pressure overall) the clutch pedal would go to the floor when bleeding the slave and would get stuck down. I’d have to pull the pedal back up to get pressure back. After the master cylinder was replaced I got the same pedal to the floor experience when bleeding at the slave. When the pedal gets stuck the only way to get my pedal back with pressure was to pull it back out. I’m not sure what to do. The only other tip I can give is that when the pedal gets stuck to the floor when cracking the bleeder screw in the slave I close off the bleeder and can press in on the slave cylinder rod that is on the shift fork and as I press it down the clutch pedal pops back up. I’ve tried gravity bleeding it too and the pedal will again go to the floor. Would this be a bad slave and not master?? Or any idea?? When bleeding I had my fluid all the way full to eliminate any air. Thanks!!!
It's most likely air trapped in the system. It can be frustrating. When you installed the master, did you bench bleed it? If you hooked up the master fully including the hydraulic line and then filled it, you can have a LOT of air still trapped inside the master cylinder body. At that point to get rid of the trapped air you'll probably have to crack the fitting at the master (messy). When you bleed using the clutch pedal method, you don't want to let that pedal reach the floor. You have someone stand on it with pressure, then you crack the fitting and close it quickly, if the pedal hasn't reached the floor (communicating with the person working the pedal), you can do it again, but don't bottom out the pedal, then once the bleeder screw is tight, have the person in the cab SLOWLY let the pedal come back up. From what you described, I'm thinking you've probably got air trapped in the master.
@@WheeliePete If I put a strong vacuum at the slave cylinder and crack the bleeder there will that get the air out of the system? Using a pneumatic suction pump?
Next time place a piece of plastic under the rubber cap of the reservoir, that way you have no air and your seepage at the moment the line is disconnected is greatly reduced.
What would happen if you install the push rod of the slave cylinder in the opposite direction?
It's just a steel rod, kind of like a long pill. The only difference in each end of the rod is that there is probably a groove towards one end that the dust boot locks into. If you have it backwards in the slave cylinder the boot is going to be free-floating on the end of the rod.
@@WheeliePete ok. thanks for the information. I will change it when I do my oil change. Great video man!!!