Awesome. As an DIY home owner, I've learned a lot of important techniques here: double joists and how to adapt the tuffblocks to it, taping the joists, blocking across the tuffblocks. Shims (seems simple, but I'm not a pro so that's a new one); concrete fasteners. I can barely wait to get started on my projects.
Definitely thought about that. Just a bit difficult to do on this project since I'm on site and this lumber was 14' long. I'll have to think up of something on the next project haha. Thanks for watching and the suggestion.
in a pinch a heavy tool chest,anything that won't slid easy, can be a good stop block if your working on the ground. with long distances used a box of rocks once for deck boards
When you have to grind concrete like that it’s much easier to cut a 1”” grid pattern nearly to the depth you need with a 5” grinder and diamond cutting wheel . Smash that out then u have very little left to grind . Tip: if you can’t see the finished concrete cut it ,smash it ,and leave it .
Questin: can I build this same deck, but have it be level with the ground? Following similar instructions just dig a deeper foundation? Thank you for sharing
This was fascinating. Loving the look of those blocks. We have to build a wee catio and they'd be fantastic to keep the wood of the ground and prevent rot from underneath. Great job so far.
Where do you find ground contact 2 x 4 product? I learned the hard way using pressure treated 2 x 6 that was not ground contact rated and had to replace after five years due to rot.
Helpful video. What would you do if your concrete step was 4” high instead of 6”? Since the top of the joist would end up higher than the step with the tuff blocks
Just saw your video for this deck patio. I see this deck was placed over a existing concrete slab. The house I bought has a wonky mix of pavers, small existing square concrete slab & small half-circle concrete slab with a massive crack down it’s center. This house is 29 y/o, in could shape. But it was a rental 2 or 3 times in the 29 years. Last owners were a young couple, for 6 yrs, did nothing.. so backyard and “patio” was never maintained. My question is would it be necessary to remove all of the existing concrete & pavers? Can the type of deck you built in your video be built on the bare ground?
The key is get the paver bases where the tuff blocks will be on as level as possible with paver gravel then sand... Then put your weed barrier down and put paver base gravel under each tuff block to make it level... Literally you will have 4 lines of paver base about 20 feet long on top of the weed barrier and adjust to make it level.. The gravel on the concrete base isn't going anywhere
Was just wondering, doesn't the 1500mm span works for both X & Y axis? You seemed to have adopted only for a single axis. My point is if both axis have adopted 1500mm span, you'll use alot less Tough Blocks. Just my thoughts. Great video by the way!
Looking to do the same kind of deck for my son, do you have any suggestions for extending it on to the past the concert on to the grass area? Are the plans on Etzy now?
Looking good Brent. I know you like these Tuff Blocks and they look like a really good material to use for this type of project. Treat those cut ends tho. Oversight? I like the tape too
GREAT question Roger. In all honest it was the one thing I forgot to bring with me at the job site. Thats a step I normally do on all of my deck projects. The tape takes care of it now but since I didn't have the treatment on me I literally made sure that all of the joist ends that where cut are the ends underneath the roof soffit. Thanks so much for mentioning that and watching.
@@BYOTools I forget to bring the right materials and sometimes the tools all the time! I know exactly what you said when you realized you forgot it. Hopefully no children were around when you said it! Thanks for all the great videos again
Beautiful and simple. I plan to take on this project this summer BUT I don’t have concrete to place this on. How different would the process be if I wanted to build a low profile deck on dirt? I’m assuming some type of pretreatment/weed barrier is needed?
Great question and I meant to mention this in the video but I don't believe I did. Depending on the area you could just bring in a plate compactor and compact the soil. If you want to be extra careful that it won't move on you, bring in some rushed rock and compact it that way. Here is the video I did last year with Tuff Block. Not the same type of deck but you will get the idea. Thanks for asking and watching. ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html
What kind of wood is this that it has all those etches in them? We don't have that around here. Im assuming its just a method of penetrating the wood a little more than regular PT.
Curious what kind of 2x4 PT are these? I have looked in menards and THD lumber section and never found any PT 2x4 that look like these. But they seem pretty high quality.
I watched many, many videos before choosing this BYOT approach for our deck in Australia. I watched all the BYOT videos many times along the way and they were fantastic. As rookies, we needed the tips and details provided - very much appreciated. Our deck looks fantastic and we could not have done it without BYOT! Many thanks...
I am interested in building a 12 x 20 low profile deck similar to this one, do you have any plans for a 12 x 20? I will be using pressure treated for the decking.
When we have a deck this low how do we clean out underneath it? My deck is going to be underneath a Locust tree that has tiny leaves and seeds that fall through the cracks. I'm wondering how one cleans a low deck to get rid of rotting organic material and standing water?
If the concrete is stable now and won't shift around much anymore then you should be just fine to use these. You could shim out the footings where it is needed or use 4x4 posts like i did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html Thanks so much for the question and for watching Kyle. Truly appreciate the support.
You can but I recommend that you put some crushed rock down first as base and then compact it. Here's a video of what I've done in the past. ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html
Always wondered why so much blocking is added to deck frames. They are an essential part of a wall frame, but a wall has very different applied forces to a deck. I appreciate that they are intended to prevent joists twisting, but when the bottom of each joist is connected to the bearer and the top is firmly held in place by the deck boards (unlike a wall), the chance of the joists twisting seems minimal. One or two blocks at midway points, especially on larger spans makes sense, but I see blocking every 16" on some frames. What are the requirements in US and Canada? Having looked through our codes, I can't find any requirements for deck frame blocking in AUS and NZ. Any structural engineers care to comment? cheers
GREAT question Sasha. In all honest it was the one thing I forgot to bring with me at the job site. Thats a step I normally do on all of my deck projects. The tape takes care of it nowadays but since I didn't have the treatment on me I literally made sure that all of the joist ends that where cut are the ends underneath the roof soffit. Thanks so much for mentioning that and watching.
Good morning! Love your videos! I am requesting your advise on a 10’x12’ floating deck lwe want to build like this video for our 81”x64” hottub. How far apart do you recommend the joist be and how make of the tuff blocks should we use? Should we have more tuff block under the hottub?
Great job matey!! looking superb as always! Can I ask a rude question pls, can you let me know the rough amount you charged for this job, labour and materials separate. Am just interested to see what the market prices are like over there compared to here in spain. tks for your time and for sharing.
Nice one! I’m interested in doing something similar over my patio - but my patio isn’t level with water pooling in areas. Any suggestions on how to deal with the water pooling? And do you shim under the blocks or under the 2x4s?
Hey Brent love the video. Per your suggestion would love the plans for a similar build I am looking at which is 15ft wide and 21 ft long. I too am building over concrete which has a bit of a fall so may need to put in some posts towards the one end within the tuff blocks to secure level.
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
what is the max weight that this kind of deck can handle? Like, could it hold a hot tub or would you frame out an opening and place it on the concrete? Loved the video! Thanks for being human too. It's nice to see pros needing to go back and rework something, because no one is perfect.
TuffBlocks themselves are load rated to handle the weight of a full regular hot tub with a load rating of 1700lbs per block (break tested to 11,000lbs per block). When you use a number of TuffBlocks directly under the hot tub this is enough to handle the weight, but it's always best to check your maths depending on the size of the tub.
When i saw the distance of the rings in that 2x4 i really appreciate the quality och scandinavian lumper instead of something that grew in 6 years then harvested
LOL, I like the low profile but dude! You talk about not have to mess with foundations or footings, but you built it on a concrete slab, who poured the slab? Its a new slab. Yeah and I got to agree with the guy about the cost of the plastic vs wood.
When you're cutting many short pieces on the radial arm saw, just put the clamp in a small piece of wood at the right side, then feed and cut, feed, cut... makes for quick work of that.
Nice, but the material costs in my area are insane. Just one of those plastic foot pads are $15 plus tax each. Makes one wish they had done such a project 5 years ago.
YES It would have been haha. In all honesty the client didn't want me to jack hammer it out and I thought it was going to be easier to grind down then it was. Next time I run into this one it will definitely be jacked hammered out. Good question and thanks for watching.
Amateur Question : Wood can expand. How does this not cause problems when the frame is squeezed tight up against the structure of the house foundation and the steps ?
Great question, and often times something people forget about! Unless I'm missing something, I think he's going to be ok: 1) The vast majority of expansion happens across the grain. This means boards get wider/thicker, but not longer. With that in mind, the "rim joist" (the board between the two steps that is almost touching the house) isn't going to be a problem because it won't get longer. But what about the joists? They are orientated in a way where getting thicker would look like it would squish between the concrete steps, right? Well, he'd be ok there too. Because each joist has open space (10ish inches on both sides) to expand. So their movement won't move the rest of the framing - they will get get thicker/thinner in their own place. This is unlike a wood floor, where the wood is butted up against each other and each board's expansion adds up across the entire floor. In this case the only one that MIGHT move things is the one against the step since it getting thicker would push against the concrete. But that much movement is a very small amount. 2) He's using Pressure Treated lumber - I missed the type he's using, but most of the time it means that the wood is already very wet... and will only shrink going forward. So he might get a small gap... but nothing that should be a big deal
I can't help it: "the Max span for the toughblocks is 59" or if you're on the metric system, 1,500mm." 🤔 lol, 150cm*..... it is a lot more manageable a number to work with 😅
that isn't that low profile. I have 3 inches to the door threshold...that is low profile. I have to use 2x2 boards, pressure treated just to make that work. And the boards will be laying directly on the concrete. Water never pools on the deck and is mostly covered, so it should be fine. Mine also won't be screwed into the pavement, because it is boxed in on 3 sides and weighs 500 lbs...so not moving anywhere and I don't have to put a bunch of holes in my concrete.
So if I build a deck and I have TimberTech as a sponsor does that mean it's a GIANT commercial to you? Please be mindful of the fact that I never take my audience for granted and keep them in mind when I take on sponsorships. I turn down the VAST majority of brands that ask to sponsor the channel and only work with brands that fit into a video where it would be a natural fit. This is exactly what you are getting in this video. Please think about that next time and thank you for watching.
I'm pretty sure you wasted a whole lot of money with those blocks.....you have one under every board! What? Did someone tell you to do that? LOL each tuffblock is good for 1,700 lbs.! You even stated that.....feel embarrassed yet?
Hey Guys! It's SO important to protect your decking with a protective layer - you are absolutely right... however, the tape you have there looks to be a butyl tape which over time will wear and crack in the ranging temperatures and environments. The longevity of the decking framework is increased with any protection you give it however our tape has a guarantee of an extra 25+ years of longevity on your decking framework. We care so much about our end consumers' projects that we have designed this deck tape in-house with a specially designed adhesive that is patented! Our tape is: Non-Butyl Completely UV Stable Repositionable Easy-to-tear (no knife needed) but ultra strong Permanent Adhesive Bond For 50 years Self-Seals Around Fasteners Made with sustainable & recycled materials Can Be Applied to Damp Timber or Below Freezing (Not in the rain or wet timber) Available in 10 different widths We would LOVE to send you some free samples of our range and see what you make of them?? It would mean a lot to us but also potentially save you time application, better value for money, and a more robust product overall. Please contact us if you are interested. Video example here below (6.32 mins in): ua-cam.com/video/4WkBUC8cPrg/v-deo.html Thanks very much Walther Strong
Awesome. As an DIY home owner, I've learned a lot of important techniques here: double joists and how to adapt the tuffblocks to it, taping the joists, blocking across the tuffblocks. Shims (seems simple, but I'm not a pro so that's a new one); concrete fasteners. I can barely wait to get started on my projects.
You got that kick back comment right...especially the way you were crosscutting with the fence. But, I do like your videos. Thanks for posting.
Nice to have reality straight lumber too.
Good option installing over concrete. To make the repetitive cuts more efficient setup a stop block using your miter saw. Keep up the good work. 👍
Definitely thought about that. Just a bit difficult to do on this project since I'm on site and this lumber was 14' long. I'll have to think up of something on the next project haha. Thanks for watching and the suggestion.
in a pinch a heavy tool chest,anything that won't slid easy, can be a good stop block if your working on the ground. with long distances used a box of rocks once for deck boards
Agreed on both accounts.
I think it wouldve been a bit better to raise the deck to be flush with the high side of the step and just deckover it.
You do fabulous work. Whoever trained you gets much credit and our respect. Gets tips for us folks out here whom have built decks with no training.
When you have to grind concrete like that it’s much easier to cut a 1”” grid pattern nearly to the depth you need with a 5” grinder and diamond cutting wheel . Smash that out then u have very little left to grind . Tip: if you can’t see the finished concrete cut it ,smash it ,and leave it .
I love seeing all these new products. Some of them are outside of my budget but they are definitely the way to go.
Thanks so much for watching and mentioning that. Always appreciate your support as always :)
Questin: can I build this same deck, but have it be level with the ground? Following similar instructions just dig a deeper foundation? Thank you for sharing
Fantastic addition and great for the kids, well don!
Since the deck is near flushed to your patio door. How are you tackling the possibility of water seeping through during rainy days?
Before you announced that it was sponsored by tuff blocks, I already knew. They’re like $10 a piece, and you had 60 million of them
i was just about to say the same, block cost more than the deck itself..lmao
@@robest109 facts haha
That's one expensive sexy beast of a deck!
I use 4x4 blocks instead. 200x cheaper
@@b3arwithm3 I was hoping someone posted an alternative Thanks 😊
Suggestion : Yes, prices vary globally. But it would be helpful to provide a guide to the area, the quantity of materials used, and their price
This was fascinating. Loving the look of those blocks. We have to build a wee catio and they'd be fantastic to keep the wood of the ground and prevent rot from underneath. Great job so far.
Love hearing that Emer and thanks so much for watching. I really do love how useful these blocks are.
Question. When I framed (a billion years ago) we often offset our blocking to allow full nailing each block. Is this still allowed?
what was the point of the deck if you already have a slab?
Where do you find ground contact 2 x 4 product? I learned the hard way using pressure treated 2 x 6 that was not ground contact rated and had to replace after five years due to rot.
Brent, we need to get you up to one million subscribers!
Helpful video. What would you do if your concrete step was 4” high instead of 6”? Since the top of the joist would end up higher than the step with the tuff blocks
Just saw your video for this deck patio.
I see this deck was placed over a existing concrete slab.
The house I bought has a wonky mix of pavers, small existing square concrete slab & small half-circle concrete slab with a massive crack down it’s center.
This house is 29 y/o, in could shape. But it was a rental 2 or 3 times in the 29 years.
Last owners were a young couple, for 6 yrs, did nothing.. so backyard and “patio” was never maintained.
My question is would it be necessary to remove all of the existing concrete & pavers?
Can the type of deck you built in your video be built on the bare ground?
The key is get the paver bases where the tuff blocks will be on as level as possible with paver gravel then sand... Then put your weed barrier down and put paver base gravel under each tuff block to make it level... Literally you will have 4 lines of paver base about 20 feet long on top of the weed barrier and adjust to make it level.. The gravel on the concrete base isn't going anywhere
are 2 by 4 strong enough for deck? Just curious, I am planning to build my own on half concrete and half on rocks.
This is exactly what I would like to do in my backyard! I would love a 16x16 deck plan.
Was just wondering, doesn't the 1500mm span works for both X & Y axis? You seemed to have adopted only for a single axis. My point is if both axis have adopted 1500mm span, you'll use alot less Tough Blocks. Just my thoughts. Great video by the way!
Hi great video. Requesting plans for a 20'x30' on grass. Mahalo!
Looking to do the same kind of deck for my son, do you have any suggestions for extending it on to the past the concert on to the grass area? Are the plans on Etzy now?
Great job once again. Question can you make any adjustments on those Tuff blocks if the concrete is not perfectly level?
Very nice, this is exactly what I'm planning to do in my deck 22.5ft x 12ft
Looking good Brent. I know you like these Tuff Blocks and they look like a really good material to use for this type of project. Treat those cut ends tho. Oversight? I like the tape too
GREAT question Roger. In all honest it was the one thing I forgot to bring with me at the job site. Thats a step I normally do on all of my deck projects. The tape takes care of it now but since I didn't have the treatment on me I literally made sure that all of the joist ends that where cut are the ends underneath the roof soffit. Thanks so much for mentioning that and watching.
@@BYOTools I forget to bring the right materials and sometimes the tools all the time!
I know exactly what you said when you realized you forgot it. Hopefully no children were around when you said it!
Thanks for all the great videos again
Beautiful and simple. I plan to take on this project this summer BUT I don’t have concrete to place this on. How different would the process be if I wanted to build a low profile deck on dirt? I’m assuming some type of pretreatment/weed barrier is needed?
Great question and I meant to mention this in the video but I don't believe I did. Depending on the area you could just bring in a plate compactor and compact the soil. If you want to be extra careful that it won't move on you, bring in some rushed rock and compact it that way. Here is the video I did last year with Tuff Block. Not the same type of deck but you will get the idea. Thanks for asking and watching. ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html
@@BYOTools thank you so much for taking the time and energy to respond to my question!
What if your height are different on your slab, can you make adjustments with the tough blocks?
What kind of wood is this that it has all those etches in them? We don't have that around here. Im assuming its just a method of penetrating the wood a little more than regular PT.
Curious what kind of 2x4 PT are these? I have looked in menards and THD lumber section and never found any PT 2x4 that look like these. But they seem pretty high quality.
Beautiful as always.
Thanks so much for watching and love hearing that.
I only have 4.5" from ground to top of finish floor from the step into my living room, is that even possible?
I definitely want those plans!
Thanks!
I watched many, many videos before choosing this BYOT approach for our deck in Australia. I watched all the BYOT videos many times along the way and they were fantastic. As rookies, we needed the tips and details provided - very much appreciated. Our deck looks fantastic and we could not have done it without BYOT! Many thanks...
I am interested in building a 12 x 20 low profile deck similar to this one, do you have any plans for a 12 x 20? I will be using pressure treated for the decking.
When we have a deck this low how do we clean out underneath it? My deck is going to be underneath a Locust tree that has tiny leaves and seeds that fall through the cracks. I'm wondering how one cleans a low deck to get rid of rotting organic material and standing water?
In Cali currently, concrete deck blocks are $10... Mite as well go with poly hahahaha
how the heck do you get it into square when you already have all the joists in place? the joists will keep it in whatever shape it is.
Fun video to watch and very informative. Thanks so much! 🙂
Thanks so much for watching Sheena. Truly appreciate the support.
What color are the deck panels? Do you have a product link for that?
What do you do if you don’t have a nice cement surface to go on. Say dirt instead of
How do these do on concrete patios that may have shifted and aren’t perfectly level?
If the concrete is stable now and won't shift around much anymore then you should be just fine to use these. You could shim out the footings where it is needed or use 4x4 posts like i did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html Thanks so much for the question and for watching Kyle. Truly appreciate the support.
Can you use tuff blocks on bare ground?
You can but I recommend that you put some crushed rock down first as base and then compact it. Here's a video of what I've done in the past. ua-cam.com/video/hwYbY3LYLv4/v-deo.html
Do you really need ALL of those tough blocks. Couldn't you do every other in a staggered pattern?
Always wondered why so much blocking is added to deck frames. They are an essential part of a wall frame, but a wall has very different applied forces to a deck. I appreciate that they are intended to prevent joists twisting, but when the bottom of each joist is connected to the bearer and the top is firmly held in place by the deck boards (unlike a wall), the chance of the joists twisting seems minimal. One or two blocks at midway points, especially on larger spans makes sense, but I see blocking every 16" on some frames. What are the requirements in US and Canada? Having looked through our codes, I can't find any requirements for deck frame blocking in AUS and NZ. Any structural engineers care to comment? cheers
No Copper Green or similar wood preservative on the cut ends of the pressure treated lumber?
GREAT question Sasha. In all honest it was the one thing I forgot to bring with me at the job site. Thats a step I normally do on all of my deck projects. The tape takes care of it nowadays but since I didn't have the treatment on me I literally made sure that all of the joist ends that where cut are the ends underneath the roof soffit. Thanks so much for mentioning that and watching.
With the Tuff Blocks, how do you accommodate the slope of the patio? Patios are always sloped away from the house. Shims? That doesn't seem right.
You have to use paver base crushed gravel to level each of those ltuff blocks... I am doing a 20x14 deck and this is my plan
Good morning! Love your videos! I am requesting your advise on a 10’x12’ floating deck lwe want to build like this video for our 81”x64” hottub. How far apart do you recommend the joist be and how make of the tuff blocks should we use? Should we have more tuff block under the hottub?
Great job matey!! looking superb as always!
Can I ask a rude question pls, can you let me know the rough amount you charged for this job, labour and materials separate. Am just interested to see what the market prices are like over there compared to here in spain. tks for your time and for sharing.
Nice one! I’m interested in doing something similar over my patio - but my patio isn’t level with water pooling in areas. Any suggestions on how to deal with the water pooling?
And do you shim under the blocks or under the 2x4s?
I'm looking to do this at 14" high... what would change?
Hey Brent love the video. Per your suggestion would love the plans for a similar build I am looking at which is 15ft wide and 21 ft long. I too am building over concrete which has a bit of a fall so may need to put in some posts towards the one end within the tuff blocks to secure level.
On a floating deck is it optional for 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8 depending on the desired finished planned the lay of the land?
The author does like to from scratch, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
What if your concrete patio is not level? Are those tuff blocks adjustable?
You have to shim between block and joist.
Brent's back at it again, trolling us with that "Let's get started" that sounds bananas. Get some dude.
Interesting product. What kind of siding is that?
what is the max weight that this kind of deck can handle? Like, could it hold a hot tub or would you frame out an opening and place it on the concrete? Loved the video! Thanks for being human too. It's nice to see pros needing to go back and rework something, because no one is perfect.
TuffBlocks themselves are load rated to handle the weight of a full regular hot tub with a load rating of 1700lbs per block (break tested to 11,000lbs per block). When you use a number of TuffBlocks directly under the hot tub this is enough to handle the weight, but it's always best to check your maths depending on the size of the tub.
How do you adjust the leveling?
Can you address on your next deck build good ways of anchoring a floating deck?
I'd love to see this as well - especially using the Tuff blocks which effectively act as giant shims
Setup a stop block on your mitre saw
YEP! I need to figure out that one on LONG cuts haha. Thanks so much for watching.
@@BYOTools love the content
@@BYOTools come to think of it, I wish you showed some cost effective options for DIY'ers
When i saw the distance of the rings in that 2x4 i really appreciate the quality och scandinavian lumper instead of something that grew in 6 years then harvested
Awesome work sir!!
i would have offset the inner joist / tuffblocks ones by 2 inches so you wouldn't need to topnail it. but nice work!
LOL, I like the low profile but dude! You talk about not have to mess with foundations or footings, but you built it on a concrete slab, who poured the slab? Its a new slab. Yeah and I got to agree with the guy about the cost of the plastic vs wood.
When you're cutting many short pieces on the radial arm saw, just put the clamp in a small piece of wood at the right side, then feed and cut, feed, cut... makes for quick work of that.
That process I know is "stop block."
Nice, but the material costs in my area are insane. Just one of those plastic foot pads are $15 plus tax each. Makes one wish they had done such a project 5 years ago.
How much did you charge?
I love it. Can i get someone to put down a deck for me..
Why u don’t use 2x 8 stronger .2x4 weakness
11:42 Rookie question: Wouldn't it be easier to just get rid of concrete steps with the jackhammer?
YES It would have been haha. In all honesty the client didn't want me to jack hammer it out and I thought it was going to be easier to grind down then it was. Next time I run into this one it will definitely be jacked hammered out. Good question and thanks for watching.
@@BYOTools gotcha, make sense. Thanks for great content. Waiting for part2
"I didn't even have to pour any concrete footings with these tough blocks!"
How do you level deck
Amateur Question : Wood can expand. How does this not cause problems when the frame is squeezed tight up against the structure of the house foundation and the steps ?
Great question, and often times something people forget about! Unless I'm missing something, I think he's going to be ok:
1) The vast majority of expansion happens across the grain. This means boards get wider/thicker, but not longer. With that in mind, the "rim joist" (the board between the two steps that is almost touching the house) isn't going to be a problem because it won't get longer. But what about the joists? They are orientated in a way where getting thicker would look like it would squish between the concrete steps, right? Well, he'd be ok there too. Because each joist has open space (10ish inches on both sides) to expand. So their movement won't move the rest of the framing - they will get get thicker/thinner in their own place. This is unlike a wood floor, where the wood is butted up against each other and each board's expansion adds up across the entire floor. In this case the only one that MIGHT move things is the one against the step since it getting thicker would push against the concrete. But that much movement is a very small amount.
2) He's using Pressure Treated lumber - I missed the type he's using, but most of the time it means that the wood is already very wet... and will only shrink going forward. So he might get a small gap... but nothing that should be a big deal
@@slopes83 Thank you very much for your very comprehensive reply, and greetings from Prague, CZ !
I can't help it: "the Max span for the toughblocks is 59" or if you're on the metric system, 1,500mm." 🤔 lol, 150cm*..... it is a lot more manageable a number to work with 😅
Where is part 2?! x
12” OC? Never seen that in framing.
I'm guessing he's going to install composite deck boards. Most of them require 12" OC as the max distance.
Yeah he did composite decking and with 2x4.. You got to go 12 inch oc or it's gonna bounce like crazy
Ini sagat laku di indonesia
미국에서 이정도 시공하며는 금액이 얼마나 할까? 궁금하내
It will cost about $5000 , it depends on location . Translate it to Korean. You’re welcome.
3:35 that's what she said!
please share the plans
Great to hear! Thanks for the input and what size would you like to see? 21' x 14'?
@@BYOTools that would be appreciated!
Cool
Thanks so much for watching.
إذا نزل المطر فوقه هل يوثر عليه ذالك
Instead of grinding down the concrete step, I would have just removed it. Faster, cheaper and easier for me .
That’s wild never seen 2x4 used for a deck 😅
🙏👏👍💪
Thanks so much for watching and your support as always Alain.
Used a sh!t ton of tuff blocks.
at least half of those Tuff blocks could be replaced with a joist hanger in this application.
Kids can't walk up or down 1 step? That's understandable if they are disabled. Otherwise, they just wanted to cover the concrete patio.
Looks like an expensive project hm..
Looks really expensive....
The plastic deck blocks are 2/3rds of the cost! He spent more on plastic than wood!
that isn't that low profile. I have 3 inches to the door threshold...that is low profile. I have to use 2x2 boards, pressure treated just to make that work. And the boards will be laying directly on the concrete. Water never pools on the deck and is mostly covered, so it should be fine. Mine also won't be screwed into the pavement, because it is boxed in on 3 sides and weighs 500 lbs...so not moving anywhere and I don't have to put a bunch of holes in my concrete.
If you want to enjoy your deck, dont do what he did on the table saw. It is an accident waiting to happen. Use a stop block on your miter saw instead.
Bro spent more on plastic than on wood
>$10 dollars for a plastic square
Yeah, I'd rather not, thanks.
giant commercial,. no thanks
So if I build a deck and I have TimberTech as a sponsor does that mean it's a GIANT commercial to you? Please be mindful of the fact that I never take my audience for granted and keep them in mind when I take on sponsorships. I turn down the VAST majority of brands that ask to sponsor the channel and only work with brands that fit into a video where it would be a natural fit. This is exactly what you are getting in this video. Please think about that next time and thank you for watching.
I'm pretty sure you wasted a whole lot of money with those blocks.....you have one under every board! What? Did someone tell you to do that? LOL each tuffblock is good for 1,700 lbs.! You even stated that.....feel embarrassed yet?
Wasted time and money.
Hey Guys!
It's SO important to protect your decking with a protective layer - you are absolutely right... however, the tape you have there looks to be a butyl tape which over time will wear and crack in the ranging temperatures and environments. The longevity of the decking framework is increased with any protection you give it however our tape has a guarantee of an extra 25+ years of longevity on your decking framework. We care so much about our end consumers' projects that we have designed this deck tape in-house with a specially designed adhesive that is patented!
Our tape is:
Non-Butyl
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Repositionable
Easy-to-tear (no knife needed) but ultra strong
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Self-Seals Around Fasteners
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Can Be Applied to Damp Timber or Below Freezing (Not in the rain or wet timber)
Available in 10 different widths
We would LOVE to send you some free samples of our range and see what you make of them?? It would mean a lot to us but also potentially save you time application, better value for money, and a more robust product overall. Please contact us if you are interested.
Video example here below (6.32 mins in):
ua-cam.com/video/4WkBUC8cPrg/v-deo.html
Thanks very much
Walther Strong
Grinding the step….omg