Hey guys, if you liked this video and found it useful - don't forget to scroll back up and use your tamp to create a firm foundation over that like button :)
Great video. I was so impressed by the patience by which you explain as you go, to instruct and tell us why you do certain things. It is really nice for someone who has the desire to learn but maybe not the actual hands on experience needed to make this happen. Thanks for the wonderful exhibition of knowledge and experience. I feel very blessed to have watched this. New subscriber!!
I have gone to Home Depot and can't find "road based gravel." I bought "all purpose gravel" instead and when I opened it up, I realized it was small gravel that kind of reminds me of pea gravel. I don't think this is what I'm to be using for the Tuff Blocks, but I can't find "road based gravel." Can anyone help??? I'm in the middle of my project! Thanks! :)
Landscape supply stores are always the best bet when it comes to getting aggregate like road base or paver base. Home Depot and Lowe's will have the basics but you'll have a lot more options at landscape stores. The all purpose gravel you have will still be useful. Any type of gravel will provide drainage for the deck blocks. But the benefit of paver base is that it compacts better. Combining the two is the best option so it's not wasted!
@@Buildtuff Thanks! Just saw your reply! Yep, I've got the paver base down, and added the "all purpose" gravel on top to level the Tuff Blocks. Adding the joists today and finishing up this small 4'x8' deck for my "she shed"! Can't wait to post the final video on my channel! Great video tutorial!
I'm following this video almost exactly for an 8x20 shed foundation and it's working out great! Thank you so much for such a great step by step video! 👏
For getting the post height, could you go ahead and put the post in the TuffBlock, hold or clamp the joist level, then just mark the post at the top edge of the joist, avoiding the measuring? Best video I've found - thanks!
That sounds like it would work great. The only downside is you might waste lumber. You'd have to cut the post into smaller sections to be able to walk around and measure them. Or you'd be carrying one huge post around. By using our method, you cut one long post into precise pieces. Otherwise you'd be walking around with a huge post trying to measure it piece by piece (does that make sense?)
@@Buildtuff my ground surface was roughly flat (3" difference between high and low corners). So I pre cut the posts roughly to 16" height and then set up each post in its block and in position against the joist to mark the height for the remaining posts. I put the base up and joists across with the four corner posts holding up first then added the remaining support posts.
I used these for a deck and had a few left over, used them to really quickly put up some platforms I needed for honey bees. I plan to use some next under some of the legs of a platform for some rain barrels for drip irrigation. Really straightforward way to stand up some 4x4 posts.
I am currently in the process of building a floating deck with TuffBlocks, one tip do not install joist hangers in ledger and rim joist prior to installing frame, I did this but variations in pressure treated wood thickness and width caused a lot of frustration. Better to line up top of board level with rim joist and ledger then install joist hanger, will save you a lot of trouble and help keep things level.
I have the the same issue with unlevel ground but my deck will be a lot smaller. I was going to cement the post into the ground to avoid doing all the prep work. The ground is already just dirt. Thanks for the great video.
I wondered the same thing. FWIW I plan on using #9 3" structural screws with a star drive (not just any deck screws that aren't for structural applications).
@Buildtuff Do you have any videos on how to use the tuff blocks under stairs or stringers???. Perhaps a more in depth how to or possibly some further instructions? I like how you used them under the stairs and wanting to try your way but not sure how? Thanks you!
Yup, we have the perfect video for you: ua-cam.com/video/nAdG59g46Jg/v-deo.htmlsi=a4aTLBfYkqV6T7Rj This was April Wilkerson's project where she used TuffBlock under stair stringers.
Awesome, great to hear Danielle! If you want to share pictures of your deck on our social channels feel free to send them to oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com We'd love to see what you built :)
Always love to see new ways to build . The main question I have is this system doesn’t seem to do anything for uplift. And wouldn’t digging 9 holes and doing bearers and joist be cheaper and quicker ? Waiting for concrete to cure doesn’t cost money just go away and come back
Appreciate the feedback Nicholas. It didn't get shown on camera but at the beginning of day 2 before the cameras arrived, the builder anchored the deck down in the corners in case of strong winds and gales. But you're right, in the case of extreme winds, the best solution would be to have in ground concrete posts in a couple of the corners and then use TuffBlocks as intermediaries for the rest. And you're completely right. Adding bearers to the build would mean less supports/holes/TuffBlocks. Once you do that, the downside is you lift the deck up by an additional 6-8 inches on top of the joist and deck board height. So the benefits of having an ultra low profile deck are lost. There are better examples than this deck for that (the only low side here is the one you directly walk onto), for example decks built directly onto patio that need to be ultra low profile without digging. We hope you'll consider using us!
Not just about that - there are also reasons. One being residential codes and property taxes. According to the International Residential code, decks are exempt from "free standing deck" status and classify as personal property if a deck is less than 200 sqft, under 20 inches at any point in height, have cement footers (tuff blocks). Do all of that and the deck you build is not classified as a building on the property - therefore, no regulations, no property taxes owed.
Typically a nail gun is first used to get the framing in place and then screws secure it in place. 3 inches and above is recommended, and I think with this project in some instances 6 inch screws were used.
What was the sealant used on the cut boards? And is there any way to anchor the tuffblocks to the ground so they won't move? I want them to stay in place so they don't get moved accidentally if I bump them. Like, maybe I can backfill with some gravel over them a bit to not only hide them more, but keep them weighed down? or can some sort of spikes be driven down into them to hold them down? I like how you did the stairs.
It was a bitumen sealant. Yes good question- you can use earth anchors to hold the deck in place. Often used for sheds and tents: www.amazon.com/FEED-GARDEN-Anchors-Diameter-Trampoline/dp/B09LCQ6CGY In terms of being weighed down, an average deck is around half a ton (give or take). So the downward force is that of a small car.
@@Buildtuff Thanks! I'm planning on a small 5'x4' deck at an exterior door (but don't want to anchor it to the house). Its basically to make it a bit safer walking out the door. I like how these blocks were used under the stairs. I also like that the stairs were made with boxes instead of stringers. I'm not a fan of stringers. Boxes look sturdier.
Great narration and descriptions! Very impressive demonstration and execution of each stage! What climate and soil shift is this project going to have potential issues with?
Thanks! It's a sub-tropical climate, but deck blocks were primarily designed for states that suffered from freeze thaw. A floating deck moves as a single unit, so it puts no stress on it and was an alternative method to avoid cumbersome frost lines.
We just removed a hot tub and thinking of using tuff blocks to rebuild the deck over the tub and put in some deck stairs. what's that black paint you put on the cut joists to retreat them? and what's that black tape you put on before putting the deck boards down?
Thanks for considering TuffBlock! The black paint you're thinking of is a bitumen wood treatment. Unfortunately this project was a while ago now so I'm not exactly sure where we got it...sorry about that. The black tape is regular old G-tape which is a joist tape. It stops moisture getting trapped on top of your boards.
Good question! I did a breakdown of the cost for this deck and for the materials alone the TuffBlocks were 17% of the total cost. The biggest cost is typically going to be your decking boards (especially if you use composite boards). However I know lumber prices for the foundation had shot up massively this summer. The contractor was of course a big cost factor. But if you're doing it yourself then that saves a big chunk! Hope that helps.
Great video and instructions. Wanting to DIY a deck on my sloping backyard but so intimidated by the thought of digging holes, pouring cement and all. TuffBlocks seem to be the solution I need. Do you have any advice on soil condition to ensure this method is suitable?
Glad you enjoyed the video! In terms of soil condition, the main factor is making sure you're building at grade level and that it's stable earth. Removing the top soil usually reveals soil that is compacted that is good for building on. Having soil that drains well (a sand based soil is good for this) helps a lot too. But using aggregate is always a good addition regardless. We wrote an article talking about ground prep, so if you have 2 minutes it's worth checking out: buildtuff.com/blogs/diy-ideas/deck-block-prep-101-the-ultimate-guide-to-preparing-your-ground
Noticed in an ad (comments are turned off) that these are stackable… what advantage do you get out of stacking them? Was it just mentioned because it’s possible? For display purposes in stores? Shipping?
Hi Jarred. Good question. The stackable function is for ease of transport when you're carrying them to site. This means they take up a lot less room per Tuffblock, and don't slide around. You can easily slot 12 TuffBlocks onto your back seat, whereas with concrete blocks you'd need a ton more space, and you'd need to secure them down safely. If you're parking far from the build site, this means you can also hold 12 stacked TuffBlocks in one run, compared with just 1 concrete block. All in all it's only a minor benefit compared with the rest of the benefits TuffBlocks holds, but it's one you'll appreciate once you're building!
It's really up to you, there's no set amount. As a ballpark, anything from 1/2 inch to 2 inches is about right. In honesty, aggregate is a subjective thing and you can use as little or as much as you like. We probably went a bit over the top with it, especially renting a compactor (a tamp is cheap and easy to use). It also depends on the ground. For areas that suffer from any pooling of water after rain then you want to use a lot more. In some cases you can get away without using any aggregate.
Good question Stephen. We used hurricane anchors like these to prevent uplift: www.amazon.com/Ground-Anchor-Augers-Diameter-Folding/dp/B08LZL156F The builder installed them at sunrise on day 02 hence we didn't get to film that part! In hindsight we should have made sure to cover it. We'll make sure to show that on future projects.
Looks fantastic! And what a great video, so well explained. With those step by step instructions I will be building my own deck this spring. Thank you guys! We will send in photos when it is done.
Spot on Brad! There are times when concrete may be necessary but for floating decks that aren't attached to any fixed structure, then TuffBlocks are a great solution.
5:45 - Instead of measuring you can also just scribe where you want to cut the piece once you have them in place. Referential measurement will always be much more accurate 👍🏻
Bro said "whilst", and then gave a math class on the Pythagorean theorem... 😂 GREAT vid, and it looks like a fantastic product. I have a deck rebuild coming up - Looking fwd to trying these out
When the joist needs to be raised less than 1 1/2 inches (the depth of the Tuff Block "socket", thus the minimum it could be raised using a notched 4x4 post)-- how is that best accomplished? Do you simply mound up the paver base under the Tuff Block? Can't be sure from the video. Thanks.
There are a few methods you could use here: 1) Use small 4x4 posts and then have the joist sat on that. You could cut a 4x4 post as small as you like so you could raise your joist up half an inch, 1inch, 2inches etc. 2) Use cuts of 2 inch joists. This is similar to the post but the cuts of joist would fill the joist slot and give more surface area for your frame to sit on 3) Use shims. This is a good example by Wood Bully on how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/8zljVEx5ma8/v-deo.html This is perhaps the simplest and quickest method. Because the shims are wedged into one another, you can get the joist super firm. This is probably more for your micro adjustments. Hope this helps!
Good question. This deck has seen a number of heavy storms and hasn't moved at all for a few reasons. One, it's built on grade level earth that's been compacted. Second, the paver base and mixture of aggregate under the blocks helps with drainage. And third, on a block like this the water runs off quickly downhill. You're probably worse at the bottom of a flood plain or on flat ground that can pool water. In any case, the terraced ground was well prepared by Chris to withstand torrential rain and here it's not an issue.
1. Understand 16” centers. But how far apart are posts under the long boards? 2. What are you sealing the cuts with? 3. What is the name of the tape you’re using on top of the joists? Why measure the vertical posts? Just mark 2 lines. Thanks!
Thanks for the questions. 1. It depends on the joists you're using. 5 feet is pretty typical, but check your local span tables depending on the thickness and type of timber you're using. The thicker the joist, the further apart the supports (posts in this case) will be. 2. It's a bitumen sealant paint 3. It's Gtape. But we also recently launched TuffTape online on the Australia BuildTuff site. Our tape cuts the time to install in half.
If you prepare the terraces properly then this won't be an issue. This deck weighs half a ton and with a wide footprint there's no way it could be shoved even if you wanted to. Saying that, if you wanted 100% peace of mind, you could always concrete in one of the corner posts.
Hello, at 17:20 you refer to the use of a dremel. Im Australia... is this a router and do you need a special attachment? I want to use 140mm x 19mm Merbau decking boards, but cant find anywhere where they are already grooved notched out. THanks
It's a bitumen based sealant. This project was a while back so I'm not 100% which one we used, but if you ask for a bitumen sealant in your local hardware store they should be able to find what you need.
Hi Michael - there shouldn't be any concern with doing a project similar to this on a bigger scale. TuffBlocks are break tested to 11,000lbs per block, so once you scale that up the weight bearing capacity of a whole heap of them is immense. Is it a hot tub you're placing on it?
@@Buildtuff thanks for your reply- looking at putting about a 1100 pound 26 foot geodesic dome with furniture so likely 2000-2500 pounds total. Would like to skip digging so many footers but want to be sure things don’t go bad if a storm were to blow through. Also considered adding ground anchors or earth anchors if I did the tuff blocks to hold to the ground. We may add a hot tub in the future
@@Buildtuff actually watched this and did not even consider using some footers and some tuff blocks. Footers on corners for example only. Very cool ua-cam.com/video/oT9bLQWw5vw/v-deo.html
You can indeed. In fact this is one of the best case uses for TuffBlocks and a huge advantage over other solutions where you can't dig. Concrete blocks have a much taller profile meaning you can't achieve an ultra low profile deck, and additionally TuffBlocks have a perfectly flat base due to the highly engineered injection molding process. The wide flat foot creates a very stable base.
One more question: How did you install the stairs exactly? We are planning on building a similar deck, but I am not sure how to handle the stairs (fixing them to the ground). Most tutorials suggest pouring concrete or putting pavers down - but that seems counter-intuitive when using TuffBlocks for the rest of the deck. Can you help clearifying? Thanks in advance :)
We used TuffBlocks for the stairs the same way we used them for the rest of the deck. They sit on compacted ground with the bottom step in the joist slot. Most of the time you're going to want to use stringers for steps, and to be honest we changed our stair design late in the game. If you want a stair tutorial that uses TuffBlock then we'd recommend April's video here: ua-cam.com/video/nAdG59g46Jg/v-deo.htmlsi=MG4w3PXNRrxfMde5 Hope this helps.
Deck blocks were initially invented for extremely cold climates that suffered from freeze thaw cycles. Because they couldn't dig below the extremely deep frost line they invented the floating foundation method. It works because the structure moves gradually as a single unit with the ground. Bear in mind, this doesn't work for decks attached to a fixed point or raised decks coming off a house where in-ground piers are required. It's a foundation method that works best for sheds, small decks and walkways that are independent of any fixed point.
Hey Kevin - Good question. Floating structures are designed to handle moving ground due to freeze thaw and the system was invented for regions in northern US states like Oregon. As the deck is not attached to a fixed point then it won't suffer any stress or damage and the hot tub + deck will be completely fine. If however you're using a ledger board attached to your house, then you'd require in ground piers below the frost line as you've introduced a fixed point.
Typically deck blocks are used on the surface. But if you do place them into the ground, then make sure you're using treated lumber that's designed to function in the ground. If you're backfilling then typically you're doing this with the existing earth, but aggregate such as gravel can work too.
Hey BuildTuff, Liked the video, I like the product, however, I am curious as to how on say a full raised deck, total elevated surface 2'-3' from ground level, how you would keep the deck from racking, or would you go with standard building practices and put in concrete piers in the corners to "lock it in".
Good question. There's a video on this subject by Hammered Halo DIY that explains how to brace a deck to stop it from racking: ua-cam.com/video/gsi8u0Mu1z4/v-deo.html You've also got 'V bracing' in this video by Dr Decks: ua-cam.com/video/ne1olZHI66E/v-deo.html Ultimately reducing racking has less to do with the footings and more to do with the construction of the sub-frame itself. If you use a combination of bracing techniques and bridging between joists (as well as building to code, using checked in posts, use appropriate size & amounts of fasteners etc) then you're going to have a sturdy deck.
This type of build on sloping concrete is difficult to create a perfect solution. You can 1) continue to build with the slope and dynabolt some of the TuffBlocks into the concrete 2) use shims to adjust the angle (again dynabolted in) 3) create small concrete pads (very time consuming) We advise that TuffBlocks should be level before building on them but the first option can work with very slight slopes. 3 degrees is a judgement call and you're best placed to make that decision. Sorry if this isn't the perfect answer. In the meantime we'll think of a method to overcome this because it's a common scenario!
From memory this was 2x8. It was filmed 3 years ago so don't quote me on that! But either way you should build to your local allowable span tables so check what that is and adjust your build to suit.
Hi there - where did you build this deck? I am thinking about applying this method to our porch in VT - and I am wondering if the temperatures of the soil / freezing ground water call for a different method? Looking forward to your advise!
So long as the deck is floating and not attached to a fixed structure then you should be ok. The floating deck system was originally designed 50 years ago in norther states. Because floating decks move gradually as a single unit it puts no stress on it.
TuffBlocks have a load rating of 1700lbs per block. Break tested to 11,000lbs each. So for a standard sized hottub then you should be ok, but do the math first! We've had many people placing hottubs on top of them with no problem. It's a good idea to use a higher density of TuffBlocks directly under the tub to be sure. Floating decks using deck blocks can typically be built no higher than 3 feet, but this changes depending on your local building codes as well as if you're using it in combination with in ground concrete. Hope this helps!
@@Buildtuff Thank you! I am rebuilding a current hot tub deck and making it so the top of the hot tub is level with upper deck that's about 4 foot high. so the hot tub that's 34' high, I only need to make it approx. 14" so a 12 inch joist would work great with 2.5 inch tuff block and 2 inch deck boards ; )
The steeper slope won't make a difference so long as your terraces are completely flat. As for the longevity of TuffBlock, they're break tested to 11,000lbs per block and have an ultra high UV rating. They'll almost certainly outlast the lumber in your subframe. TuffBlocks are ICC-ES certified which you can read here: buildtuff.com/pages/icc-certification
The floating foundation method works great in areas with frost heave. In fact this method was designed primarily for areas in the northern states where freeze and thaw is an issue back in the 80s and it's been a tried and trusted method ever since. So long as you do a solid job of preparing the ground by building on grade level earth, compacting the ground and using paver base for drainage then you're good to go.
Thanks Nims! The pole system was from a rental company that do festoon lights for events. They were 2 metal stakes with a pole inserted between them for each of the poles. It was probably not stable enough for any shade fabric because it would eventually pull the poles inward. Unless the stakes were inserted very deep into the ground, then it might work.
...that is what the compacting of soil is for. Can shifting happen, yes, but the packed soil plus the thick grass will help the dirt stay put. The slope doesn't look so extreme to cause a "pull". Looks like the yard drains well, so whatever water falls on in, moves down with ease
Hi Nick. Good question. It uses the floating foundation method which was originally designed in north america for states where freeze and thaw was an issue. The deck 'floats' on top of the ground and adjusts for movement. It's a method that has grown very popular since it's inception over 50 years ago and has stood the test of time.
Very clear instructions Many people I follow are building off-grid in the wilderness, I would like to see this system used in such places with ONE builder and no high-end power tools or conveniences. Let's get real
Thank you for making and sharing this video. I want to surprise my wife this fall by making a floating 16x16 deck. You have me so much confidence and I can definitely do it myself. However I have no idea how much and what size of lumber I need to buy. Do you have plans and a material list? And the most important, where do I buy the build tuff here in my area?
Hi Salvador, thanks for the kind words and I'm glad this video gave you confidence to go out there and build! I'm sure your wife will love the deck you build. We'd love to help you in any way possible. Please send an email to me and I'll give you a full list of materials used to build this, along with plans: oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com
Yup TuffBlocks are ICC-ES certified to perform comfortably from -20F to +125F. They're UV stabilized, load rated to 1700lbs and break tested to 11,000lbs per block. It's an incredibly durable deck block and even though we offer a 25 year warranty, we've never received one back with millions of units sold. Hope this helps.
@@finbah5706 100%, we've sold millions of units and haven't had a single person use their 25 year warranty. TuffBlocks are extemely strong, resilient and durable throughout all climates.
To prevent uplift you can use earth anchors: www.amazon.com/Earth-Ground-Securing-Trampoline-Canopies/dp/B0B4V93BY8/?th=1 They're relatively cheap and easy to install. They're commonly used with large scale tents and trampolines. Decks like this weigh comparable to a small car, but earth anchors will make sure there's no uplift in high wind areas.
Excellent Video Guys. I've been watching dozens of UA-cam Vids for Weeks on Building a Floating Deck and this is the Best. The Only Modification I'd make to it would be the Addition of some Post, especially for the end where there is a 2'+ Drop off the Side. Not much is needed... Just show what would be required to Add Posts and Railing...
If you're worried about high winds you can tie the project down using earth/hurricane anchors. They're cheap and easy to install: www.amazon.com/Jayzod-Shelters-Canopies-Trampoline%EF%BC%8C4-Included/dp/B08H4DZCV4
For tie down you can use earth anchors like they use for sheds or tents which you can find here: www.amazon.com/VASGOR-Anchors-Diameter-Canopies-Securing/dp/B08RN2NH9R This will give you peace of mind in the event of extreme wind events and is simple to install.
I followed this video and did something really similar for a 12x12 deck. The problem is that my overhang with the blocking has some sag to it when I step on it. Did you encounter this problem?
So long as they're supported in line with your local span tables then you're good to go. 25ft would just require more supports along the span. If you can't find 25ft then you could butt join the joists with a support under the join and then screw a plate that goes across both joists. This article (#6) shows you a demonstration: www.davidcosby.co.uk/joining-timbers/
Codes vary from region to region. Saying that, floating decks that use deck blocks are very common and if a floating deck is below a certain size it doesn't require a permit. In terms of code, the key is that it can't be attached to a fixed structure. In terms of TuffBlock itself, it's gone through rigorous testing to become ICC certified which you can view here: icc-es.org/report-listing/esr-4628/
Great video guys. 👍😃 I recently learned a cool technique so you don’t have to rip down your last decking board…. Only fix off 1 side of the joists and let the other side hand long…. When you get close to the other side with your decking then you can figure out where your last board lands….. and trim your joists to suit. :) For an open area like that it would work really well :)
I tried to do this myself but somewhere along the way I forgot I was doing that and now I’m gonna have a weird end piece lol. Too far along to fudge the spaces too
Hi James - let me get in touch with the builder to find out the specific brand of sealant we used when building this deck. Hopefully he remembers! If in doubt any all purpose lumber sealant will do the trick.
The product is a tar based in ground timber protector. Which country are you from? This is one in Australia which is similar: www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-1l-monocel-in-ground-timber-protector_p0039110?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNIJsuuHk7q8WnWzXQVOvO0dcLptvl2_VLiiG2RtVEbUghMupGwtIHhoCOTgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
What confused me was at 5.14, why the post isnt inserted into the tuff block to determine that the bearer i level, when the uphill end is in the tuffblock?? How can it be level at the lower end, once it is inserted????
Yes, you'll want to use earth/hurricane anchors. These auger into the soil and then attach to the subframe. They're typically use with large scale tents or sheds, but also work great for floating decks: www.amazon.com/Jayzod-Shelters-Canopies-Trampoline%EF%BC%8C4-Included/dp/B08H4DZCV4 You can also use duckbill earth anchors, and we made a short demonstration video here: ua-cam.com/users/shorts1HuYofBBTD4
Great to hear! You can purchase TuffBlocks in Lowe's (USA), Home Depot (CAN) or Bunnings (AUS). Alternatively you can purchase directly online at www.buildtuff.com
For a typical sized jacuzzi then yes. TuffBlocks are load rated to 1700 lbs each, and break tested to 11,000 lbs per block. To be safe, it's good to use more directly under the jacuzzi itself and double check your numbers! We've had lots of jacuzzies built with TuffBlocks underneath, and we've had someone using 6 IBC water tanks weighing over 6 tons on top. So they're more than strong enough.
This is indeed very helpful and has given me confidence on building a floating deck. The only problem I can't get my mind around, and wasn't really covered in the video, is how do you level the two corner tuff blocks in relation to each other? I noticed in the video that one of the top corners ended up having a post. Also, my deck is going to be 21 feet wide, so I will need to have two pieces of lumber on my joist hanger sides. Do I join them together first? Or can it be done one at a time? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Leslie, you're right...we didn't cover in detail that top left corner post with the mini post. The best solution is going to be using a string line with stakes and a mini spirit level on the string. This channel 'Essential Craftsman' has the best video on UA-cam for using string line: ua-cam.com/video/cv6BdwMe560/v-deo.html The key is to not worry about the level of the TuffBlock, but to make sure it's completely flat. Once you know the height required using a string line, then cut your post to height. You're correct, the top left TuffBlock did have a very small post and that was to counter the slight slope. If you do this correctly for the top end joist and one cross joist then the other 2 should be perfectly level as well. Hope this helps!
Is putting a post on a tuffblock and putting cross piece that is secured to the post sitting in the 2 by space in the same tuffblock then running to the next tuffblock good
Hey Richie, what you're describing sounds like it would work perfectly. However we'd love to know more. If you want to reach out to describe your project in more detail (possibly through a picture/diagram) feel free to get in touch: marketing@buildtuff.com
The deck itself is going to weigh around 1500-2000 lbs (depending on what's on top) and with the wide base and compacted ground then it's not going to go anywhere. It's the equivalent of a small car.
I have an uneven asphalt driveway and some grass on the side i want to do the width, how do I level the asphalt? Can this tuffblock be used directly to that floor? I'll appreciate any answer or suggestions
Hi Andres - it all depends on how steep your asphalt is. You might be able to get away with a very slight angle. What is the slope %? Have you checked out the walkway video? This walkway was built on a very slight slope: ua-cam.com/video/PRuNK1WUYwQ/v-deo.html
@@Buildtuffhi, driveway problem is not the slope or angle, my issue is that i have yo lift the poles for a three feet high deck, so the driveway floor is inestable . How moldable is the base of these tuffblocks? My concern is the staggering of the block after i install the 4x4 pole and frame deck...
@@andresmorales4407 If you can message me at oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com I can give you better answers in more detail. Photos would be a great help to see the problem you're dealing with
We're not 100% sure of it's composition but usually it's a combination of different aggregate materials such as sand, crushed rock, clay, crusher dust etc.
Hey guys, if you liked this video and found it useful - don't forget to scroll back up and use your tamp to create a firm foundation over that like button :)
Great video. I was so impressed by the patience by which you explain as you go, to instruct and tell us why you do certain things. It is really nice for someone who has the desire to learn but maybe not the actual hands on experience needed to make this happen. Thanks for the wonderful exhibition of knowledge and experience. I feel very blessed to have watched this. New subscriber!!
OMG! Wish they had these tough blocks 30 yrs ago! I said I’d never build another deck but this is definitely the easiest and best way to go.
We love to hear stories like these. Best of luck if you go ahead with your deck!
I think Tuffblock is best used on hard surfaces like concrete and bricks. I built one with this and it presented a challenge with leveling.
As a woman wanting to build my own floating deck this vid is everything I needed to know!
That's awesome to hear! Best of luck with your project.
I have gone to Home Depot and can't find "road based gravel." I bought "all purpose gravel" instead and when I opened it up, I realized it was small gravel that kind of reminds me of pea gravel. I don't think this is what I'm to be using for the Tuff Blocks, but I can't find "road based gravel." Can anyone help??? I'm in the middle of my project! Thanks! :)
Landscape supply stores are always the best bet when it comes to getting aggregate like road base or paver base. Home Depot and Lowe's will have the basics but you'll have a lot more options at landscape stores. The all purpose gravel you have will still be useful. Any type of gravel will provide drainage for the deck blocks. But the benefit of paver base is that it compacts better. Combining the two is the best option so it's not wasted!
@@Buildtuff Thanks! Just saw your reply! Yep, I've got the paver base down, and added the "all purpose" gravel on top to level the Tuff Blocks. Adding the joists today and finishing up this small 4'x8' deck for my "she shed"! Can't wait to post the final video on my channel! Great video tutorial!
I'm following this video almost exactly for an 8x20 shed foundation and it's working out great! Thank you so much for such a great step by step video! 👏
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful ! 👍
Very nicely done. You covered all the bases, and made it easy to follow for DIY folks as well as professionals. Great job.
Thanks for the feedback! Glad we've been able to help.
For getting the post height, could you go ahead and put the post in the TuffBlock, hold or clamp the joist level, then just mark the post at the top edge of the joist, avoiding the measuring? Best video I've found - thanks!
That sounds like it would work great. The only downside is you might waste lumber. You'd have to cut the post into smaller sections to be able to walk around and measure them. Or you'd be carrying one huge post around. By using our method, you cut one long post into precise pieces. Otherwise you'd be walking around with a huge post trying to measure it piece by piece (does that make sense?)
@@Buildtuff my ground surface was roughly flat (3" difference between high and low corners). So I pre cut the posts roughly to 16" height and then set up each post in its block and in position against the joist to mark the height for the remaining posts. I put the base up and joists across with the four corner posts holding up first then added the remaining support posts.
Such a good video. Super informative. Anyone could build a deck from watching this.
I don't think anyone should start building a deck unless you know how much effort and time it will take. It's at least 100 hours of hard labor.
I used these for a deck and had a few left over, used them to really quickly put up some platforms I needed for honey bees. I plan to use some next under some of the legs of a platform for some rain barrels for drip irrigation. Really straightforward way to stand up some 4x4 posts.
Awesome that's great to hear. Glad you enjoyed using TuffBlock. Build On!
I am currently in the process of building a floating deck with TuffBlocks, one tip do not install joist hangers in ledger and rim joist prior to installing frame, I did this but variations in pressure treated wood thickness and width caused a lot of frustration. Better to line up top of board level with rim joist and ledger then install joist hanger, will save you a lot of trouble and help keep things level.
I have the the same issue with unlevel ground but my deck will be a lot smaller. I was going to cement the post into the ground to avoid doing all the prep work. The ground is already just dirt. Thanks for the great video.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Great vid! What type pf screws were used to secure the posts??
I wondered the same thing. FWIW I plan on using #9 3" structural screws with a star drive (not just any deck screws that aren't for structural applications).
Wow thanks for such a great video with all the little details!!!!
@Buildtuff Do you have any videos on how to use the tuff blocks under stairs or stringers???. Perhaps a more in depth how to or possibly some further instructions? I like how you used them under the stairs and wanting to try your way but not sure how? Thanks you!
Yup, we have the perfect video for you:
ua-cam.com/video/nAdG59g46Jg/v-deo.htmlsi=a4aTLBfYkqV6T7Rj
This was April Wilkerson's project where she used TuffBlock under stair stringers.
Just built a 10x14 deck and used these decking blocks so much easier ! Just loving my back porch now
Awesome, great to hear Danielle!
If you want to share pictures of your deck on our social channels feel free to send them to oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com
We'd love to see what you built :)
Always love to see new ways to build . The main question I have is this system doesn’t seem to do anything for uplift. And wouldn’t digging 9 holes and doing bearers and joist be cheaper and quicker ? Waiting for concrete to cure doesn’t cost money just go away and come back
Appreciate the feedback Nicholas. It didn't get shown on camera but at the beginning of day 2 before the cameras arrived, the builder anchored the deck down in the corners in case of strong winds and gales. But you're right, in the case of extreme winds, the best solution would be to have in ground concrete posts in a couple of the corners and then use TuffBlocks as intermediaries for the rest.
And you're completely right. Adding bearers to the build would mean less supports/holes/TuffBlocks. Once you do that, the downside is you lift the deck up by an additional 6-8 inches on top of the joist and deck board height. So the benefits of having an ultra low profile deck are lost. There are better examples than this deck for that (the only low side here is the one you directly walk onto), for example decks built directly onto patio that need to be ultra low profile without digging. We hope you'll consider using us!
Nicholas .... your practicality along similar lines to my observation!
Not just about that - there are also reasons. One being residential codes and property taxes. According to the International Residential code, decks are exempt from "free standing deck" status and classify as personal property if a deck is less than 200 sqft, under 20 inches at any point in height, have cement footers (tuff blocks). Do all of that and the deck you build is not classified as a building on the property - therefore, no regulations, no property taxes owed.
Does this method of making decks would pass the inspection in NJ ?
Wish I had some info on the poles used for the lights.😊
I assume you're using joist hangers and running screws into the joists and blocking. What length should the screws be?
Typically a nail gun is first used to get the framing in place and then screws secure it in place. 3 inches and above is recommended, and I think with this project in some instances 6 inch screws were used.
What was the sealant used on the cut boards? And is there any way to anchor the tuffblocks to the ground so they won't move? I want them to stay in place so they don't get moved accidentally if I bump them. Like, maybe I can backfill with some gravel over them a bit to not only hide them more, but keep them weighed down? or can some sort of spikes be driven down into them to hold them down?
I like how you did the stairs.
It was a bitumen sealant. Yes good question- you can use earth anchors to hold the deck in place. Often used for sheds and tents:
www.amazon.com/FEED-GARDEN-Anchors-Diameter-Trampoline/dp/B09LCQ6CGY
In terms of being weighed down, an average deck is around half a ton (give or take). So the downward force is that of a small car.
@@Buildtuff Thanks! I'm planning on a small 5'x4' deck at an exterior door (but don't want to anchor it to the house). Its basically to make it a bit safer walking out the door. I like how these blocks were used under the stairs. I also like that the stairs were made with boxes instead of stringers. I'm not a fan of stringers. Boxes look sturdier.
Great narration and descriptions! Very impressive demonstration and execution of each stage! What climate and soil shift is this project going to have potential issues with?
Thanks! It's a sub-tropical climate, but deck blocks were primarily designed for states that suffered from freeze thaw. A floating deck moves as a single unit, so it puts no stress on it and was an alternative method to avoid cumbersome frost lines.
We just removed a hot tub and thinking of using tuff blocks to rebuild the deck over the tub and put in some deck stairs. what's that black paint you put on the cut joists to retreat them? and what's that black tape you put on before putting the deck boards down?
Thanks for considering TuffBlock! The black paint you're thinking of is a bitumen wood treatment. Unfortunately this project was a while ago now so I'm not exactly sure where we got it...sorry about that. The black tape is regular old G-tape which is a joist tape. It stops moisture getting trapped on top of your boards.
lol just the pic of this build on your site and was like wtf. Duh it was sloping yard . Great job
What's the name of the product you used to seal the post after you made the cuts?
Literally any exterior wood sealer dude
Looking at these to be the support to a shed...budget... 24 blocks x $9ea...$, plus other materials. Were these blocks 30% of your total build cost?
Good question! I did a breakdown of the cost for this deck and for the materials alone the TuffBlocks were 17% of the total cost. The biggest cost is typically going to be your decking boards (especially if you use composite boards). However I know lumber prices for the foundation had shot up massively this summer. The contractor was of course a big cost factor. But if you're doing it yourself then that saves a big chunk! Hope that helps.
Great Product...how does stay tied to the ground during heavy winds?
You can use earth anchors for this. They're cheap and simple to install into the ground.
Great video and instructions. Wanting to DIY a deck on my sloping backyard but so intimidated by the thought of digging holes, pouring cement and all. TuffBlocks seem to be the solution I need. Do you have any advice on soil condition to ensure this method is suitable?
Glad you enjoyed the video! In terms of soil condition, the main factor is making sure you're building at grade level and that it's stable earth. Removing the top soil usually reveals soil that is compacted that is good for building on. Having soil that drains well (a sand based soil is good for this) helps a lot too. But using aggregate is always a good addition regardless.
We wrote an article talking about ground prep, so if you have 2 minutes it's worth checking out:
buildtuff.com/blogs/diy-ideas/deck-block-prep-101-the-ultimate-guide-to-preparing-your-ground
Noticed in an ad (comments are turned off) that these are stackable… what advantage do you get out of stacking them? Was it just mentioned because it’s possible? For display purposes in stores? Shipping?
Hi Jarred. Good question. The stackable function is for ease of transport when you're carrying them to site. This means they take up a lot less room per Tuffblock, and don't slide around. You can easily slot 12 TuffBlocks onto your back seat, whereas with concrete blocks you'd need a ton more space, and you'd need to secure them down safely. If you're parking far from the build site, this means you can also hold 12 stacked TuffBlocks in one run, compared with just 1 concrete block. All in all it's only a minor benefit compared with the rest of the benefits TuffBlocks holds, but it's one you'll appreciate once you're building!
Is there a lumbar calculator available for the deck size?
How deep is the initial layer of fine paver base?
It's really up to you, there's no set amount. As a ballpark, anything from 1/2 inch to 2 inches is about right. In honesty, aggregate is a subjective thing and you can use as little or as much as you like. We probably went a bit over the top with it, especially renting a compactor (a tamp is cheap and easy to use). It also depends on the ground. For areas that suffer from any pooling of water after rain then you want to use a lot more. In some cases you can get away without using any aggregate.
What about wind uplift? Can get pretty gusty sometimes.
Good question Stephen. We used hurricane anchors like these to prevent uplift:
www.amazon.com/Ground-Anchor-Augers-Diameter-Folding/dp/B08LZL156F
The builder installed them at sunrise on day 02 hence we didn't get to film that part! In hindsight we should have made sure to cover it. We'll make sure to show that on future projects.
Looks fantastic! And what a great video, so well explained. With those step by step instructions I will be building my own deck this spring. Thank you guys! We will send in photos when it is done.
Nice work, if any one would like to do deck in their backyard DIY , this video gives you clear idea about it.
This product looks amazing. So I don't have to dig any holes and mix concrete?
Spot on Brad! There are times when concrete may be necessary but for floating decks that aren't attached to any fixed structure, then TuffBlocks are a great solution.
@@Buildtuff uiuiu
5:45 - Instead of measuring you can also just scribe where you want to cut the piece once you have them in place. Referential measurement will always be much more accurate 👍🏻
I was wondering the same thing. Make a mark right where you have the board.
Bro said "whilst", and then gave a math class on the Pythagorean theorem... 😂
GREAT vid, and it looks like a fantastic product. I have a deck rebuild coming up - Looking fwd to trying these out
Haha thanks, good luck with the project!
When the joist needs to be raised less than 1 1/2 inches (the depth of the Tuff Block "socket", thus the minimum it could be raised using a notched 4x4 post)-- how is that best accomplished? Do you simply mound up the paver base under the Tuff Block? Can't be sure from the video. Thanks.
There are a few methods you could use here:
1) Use small 4x4 posts and then have the joist sat on that. You could cut a 4x4 post as small as you like so you could raise your joist up half an inch, 1inch, 2inches etc.
2) Use cuts of 2 inch joists. This is similar to the post but the cuts of joist would fill the joist slot and give more surface area for your frame to sit on
3) Use shims. This is a good example by Wood Bully on how to do that:
ua-cam.com/video/8zljVEx5ma8/v-deo.html
This is perhaps the simplest and quickest method. Because the shims are wedged into one another, you can get the joist super firm. This is probably more for your micro adjustments.
Hope this helps!
@@Buildtuff Thanks, this is helpful. I have already used composite shims for the smaller adjustments (
What is it you’re using to treat the places you’ve cut to prevent rot?
It's a bitumen based sealant
How does it hold up in heavy rain, will the bedding wash away?
Good question. This deck has seen a number of heavy storms and hasn't moved at all for a few reasons. One, it's built on grade level earth that's been compacted. Second, the paver base and mixture of aggregate under the blocks helps with drainage. And third, on a block like this the water runs off quickly downhill. You're probably worse at the bottom of a flood plain or on flat ground that can pool water. In any case, the terraced ground was well prepared by Chris to withstand torrential rain and here it's not an issue.
are you using 2 by 6 joists or 2 by 8?
Also are you using treated lumber throughout the frame?
No, totally untreated indoor wood only
1. Understand 16” centers. But how far apart are posts under the long boards?
2. What are you sealing the cuts with?
3. What is the name of the tape you’re using on top of the joists?
Why measure the vertical posts? Just mark 2 lines.
Thanks!
Thanks for the questions.
1. It depends on the joists you're using. 5 feet is pretty typical, but check your local span tables depending on the thickness and type of timber you're using. The thicker the joist, the further apart the supports (posts in this case) will be.
2. It's a bitumen sealant paint
3. It's Gtape. But we also recently launched TuffTape online on the Australia BuildTuff site. Our tape cuts the time to install in half.
I love the product, my question is will a 10x12 on a slope be able to move with people shifting around. Wouldn’t want it shoved into the pool
If you prepare the terraces properly then this won't be an issue. This deck weighs half a ton and with a wide footprint there's no way it could be shoved even if you wanted to. Saying that, if you wanted 100% peace of mind, you could always concrete in one of the corner posts.
Hello, at 17:20 you refer to the use of a dremel. Im Australia... is this a router and do you need a special attachment? I want to use 140mm x 19mm Merbau decking boards, but cant find anywhere where they are already grooved notched out. THanks
Dremel at Bunnings comes with all the little attachments for about 90 bucks mate.
What wood sealer do you use after cutting the pressure treated timber ?
It's a bitumen based sealant. This project was a while back so I'm not 100% which one we used, but if you ask for a bitumen sealant in your local hardware store they should be able to find what you need.
@@Buildtuff so like asphalt sealer/filler? That's what came up when searching at home Depot
Any concern doing something like this with the 4x4 posts on a larger scale? Say a 30x30 with a few thousand pounds on it ?
Hi Michael - there shouldn't be any concern with doing a project similar to this on a bigger scale. TuffBlocks are break tested to 11,000lbs per block, so once you scale that up the weight bearing capacity of a whole heap of them is immense. Is it a hot tub you're placing on it?
@@Buildtuff thanks for your reply- looking at putting about a 1100 pound 26 foot geodesic dome with furniture so likely 2000-2500 pounds total. Would like to skip digging so many footers but want to be sure things don’t go bad if a storm were to blow through. Also considered adding ground anchors or earth anchors if I did the tuff blocks to hold to the ground. We may add a hot tub in the future
@@Buildtuff actually watched this and did not even consider using some footers and some tuff blocks. Footers on corners for example only. Very cool
ua-cam.com/video/oT9bLQWw5vw/v-deo.html
Can you use these over an existing paver patio that is level?
You can indeed. In fact this is one of the best case uses for TuffBlocks and a huge advantage over other solutions where you can't dig. Concrete blocks have a much taller profile meaning you can't achieve an ultra low profile deck, and additionally TuffBlocks have a perfectly flat base due to the highly engineered injection molding process. The wide flat foot creates a very stable base.
Great Video
One more question: How did you install the stairs exactly? We are planning on building a similar deck, but I am not sure how to handle the stairs (fixing them to the ground). Most tutorials suggest pouring concrete or putting pavers down - but that seems counter-intuitive when using TuffBlocks for the rest of the deck. Can you help clearifying? Thanks in advance :)
We used TuffBlocks for the stairs the same way we used them for the rest of the deck. They sit on compacted ground with the bottom step in the joist slot. Most of the time you're going to want to use stringers for steps, and to be honest we changed our stair design late in the game. If you want a stair tutorial that uses TuffBlock then we'd recommend April's video here:
ua-cam.com/video/nAdG59g46Jg/v-deo.htmlsi=MG4w3PXNRrxfMde5
Hope this helps.
So how do these things work north of the Mason Dixon line, like where the ground freezes?
Deck blocks were initially invented for extremely cold climates that suffered from freeze thaw cycles. Because they couldn't dig below the extremely deep frost line they invented the floating foundation method. It works because the structure moves gradually as a single unit with the ground. Bear in mind, this doesn't work for decks attached to a fixed point or raised decks coming off a house where in-ground piers are required. It's a foundation method that works best for sheds, small decks and walkways that are independent of any fixed point.
I'm building a deck for a hot tub. How do you account for frost heave? I'm in Portland, Oregon, where the frost depth goes to 12 inches.
Hey Kevin - Good question. Floating structures are designed to handle moving ground due to freeze thaw and the system was invented for regions in northern US states like Oregon. As the deck is not attached to a fixed point then it won't suffer any stress or damage and the hot tub + deck will be completely fine. If however you're using a ledger board attached to your house, then you'd require in ground piers below the frost line as you've introduced a fixed point.
What size are the joists?
What tool belt is that ?
No buckle to stab you when bending over
If you put the tuff blocks and post in ground, should you back fill it with gravel or something?
Typically deck blocks are used on the surface. But if you do place them into the ground, then make sure you're using treated lumber that's designed to function in the ground. If you're backfilling then typically you're doing this with the existing earth, but aggregate such as gravel can work too.
Hey BuildTuff, Liked the video, I like the product, however, I am curious as to how on say a full raised deck, total elevated surface 2'-3' from ground level, how you would keep the deck from racking, or would you go with standard building practices and put in concrete piers in the corners to "lock it in".
Good question. There's a video on this subject by Hammered Halo DIY that explains how to brace a deck to stop it from racking:
ua-cam.com/video/gsi8u0Mu1z4/v-deo.html
You've also got 'V bracing' in this video by Dr Decks:
ua-cam.com/video/ne1olZHI66E/v-deo.html
Ultimately reducing racking has less to do with the footings and more to do with the construction of the sub-frame itself. If you use a combination of bracing techniques and bridging between joists (as well as building to code, using checked in posts, use appropriate size & amounts of fasteners etc) then you're going to have a sturdy deck.
How level does a tough block need to be? Could you use them to build a deck on a poured concrete patio with a 3% slope without leveling each block?
This type of build on sloping concrete is difficult to create a perfect solution. You can
1) continue to build with the slope and dynabolt some of the TuffBlocks into the concrete
2) use shims to adjust the angle (again dynabolted in)
3) create small concrete pads (very time consuming)
We advise that TuffBlocks should be level before building on them but the first option can work with very slight slopes. 3 degrees is a judgement call and you're best placed to make that decision.
Sorry if this isn't the perfect answer. In the meantime we'll think of a method to overcome this because it's a common scenario!
what dimension of wood did u guys use?is it 2x8 or 2x10?
From memory this was 2x8. It was filmed 3 years ago so don't quote me on that! But either way you should build to your local allowable span tables so check what that is and adjust your build to suit.
Hi there - where did you build this deck? I am thinking about applying this method to our porch in VT - and I am wondering if the temperatures of the soil / freezing ground water call for a different method?
Looking forward to your advise!
So long as the deck is floating and not attached to a fixed structure then you should be ok. The floating deck system was originally designed 50 years ago in norther states. Because floating decks move gradually as a single unit it puts no stress on it.
Will these take a weight of a hot tub? how high can platform be?
TuffBlocks have a load rating of 1700lbs per block. Break tested to 11,000lbs each. So for a standard sized hottub then you should be ok, but do the math first! We've had many people placing hottubs on top of them with no problem. It's a good idea to use a higher density of TuffBlocks directly under the tub to be sure.
Floating decks using deck blocks can typically be built no higher than 3 feet, but this changes depending on your local building codes as well as if you're using it in combination with in ground concrete.
Hope this helps!
@@Buildtuff Thank you! I am rebuilding a current hot tub deck and making it so the top of the hot tub is level with upper deck that's about 4 foot high. so the hot tub that's 34' high, I only need to make it approx. 14" so a 12 inch joist would work great with 2.5 inch tuff block and 2 inch deck boards ; )
How do those tough blocks work long term and on steeper slopes.
The steeper slope won't make a difference so long as your terraces are completely flat. As for the longevity of TuffBlock, they're break tested to 11,000lbs per block and have an ultra high UV rating. They'll almost certainly outlast the lumber in your subframe.
TuffBlocks are ICC-ES certified which you can read here:
buildtuff.com/pages/icc-certification
Here in the N.E mostly clay , and frost heaves .
Rain and frigid Temps is terrible conditions for building most things.
How would these hold up?
The floating foundation method works great in areas with frost heave. In fact this method was designed primarily for areas in the northern states where freeze and thaw is an issue back in the 80s and it's been a tried and trusted method ever since. So long as you do a solid job of preparing the ground by building on grade level earth, compacting the ground and using paver base for drainage then you're good to go.
I wonder if there us a way to elevate the ground instead.
hi there - what size are you joist here? 2x6 or 2x8?
Amazing product, can't wait to build one deck at my back yard!
Turned out great. What pole system did you use for the lights? Can sails be attached to the poles for shade?
Thanks Nims! The pole system was from a rental company that do festoon lights for events. They were 2 metal stakes with a pole inserted between them for each of the poles. It was probably not stable enough for any shade fabric because it would eventually pull the poles inward. Unless the stakes were inserted very deep into the ground, then it might work.
@@Buildtuff ah ok. Thank you for the quick reply
@@nimster64 You're welcome
What type of sealer are you using?
I'm not sure of the specific brand but it was a bitumen sealer
So how does the water affect the level wouldnt the dirt eventually shift after a couple of good showers
...that is what the compacting of soil is for. Can shifting happen, yes, but the packed soil plus the thick grass will help the dirt stay put. The slope doesn't look so extreme to cause a "pull". Looks like the yard drains well, so whatever water falls on in, moves down with ease
Not under frost line would that be some trouble in the winter? was thinking it may shift ......
Hi Nick. Good question. It uses the floating foundation method which was originally designed in north america for states where freeze and thaw was an issue. The deck 'floats' on top of the ground and adjusts for movement. It's a method that has grown very popular since it's inception over 50 years ago and has stood the test of time.
Very clear instructions Many people I follow are building off-grid in the wilderness, I would like to see this system used in such places with ONE builder and no high-end power tools or conveniences. Let's get real
Thank you for making and sharing this video. I want to surprise my wife this fall by making a floating 16x16 deck. You have me so much confidence and I can definitely do it myself. However I have no idea how much and what size of lumber I need to buy. Do you have plans and a material list? And the most important, where do I buy the build tuff here in my area?
Hi Salvador, thanks for the kind words and I'm glad this video gave you confidence to go out there and build! I'm sure your wife will love the deck you build.
We'd love to help you in any way possible. Please send an email to me and I'll give you a full list of materials used to build this, along with plans:
oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com
I tried emailing that address and got an error saying that email doesn’t exist, are you sure that’s the right spelling?
@@canaanwilhelmsson-haack5653 I received your email thanks so it all works fine
can these be used in cold weather states where frost happens like here in Maine? do they withstand changes in temp?
Yup TuffBlocks are ICC-ES certified to perform comfortably from -20F to +125F. They're UV stabilized, load rated to 1700lbs and break tested to 11,000lbs per block. It's an incredibly durable deck block and even though we offer a 25 year warranty, we've never received one back with millions of units sold. Hope this helps.
@@Buildtuff so I can just lay them on a flattened compacted solid ground and they will hold up my deck? plastic wont crack?
@@finbah5706 100%, we've sold millions of units and haven't had a single person use their 25 year warranty. TuffBlocks are extemely strong, resilient and durable throughout all climates.
So is there nothing stopping the deck from lifting up, other than weight?
To prevent uplift you can use earth anchors:
www.amazon.com/Earth-Ground-Securing-Trampoline-Canopies/dp/B0B4V93BY8/?th=1
They're relatively cheap and easy to install. They're commonly used with large scale tents and trampolines.
Decks like this weigh comparable to a small car, but earth anchors will make sure there's no uplift in high wind areas.
Excellent Video Guys. I've been watching dozens of UA-cam Vids for Weeks on Building a Floating Deck and this is the Best. The Only Modification I'd make to it would be the Addition of some Post, especially for the end where there is a 2'+ Drop off the Side. Not much is needed... Just show what would be required to Add Posts and Railing...
Thanks Michael appreciate the kind words and the constructive feedback! That's something we'll factor in when we build our next raised deck.
30” or less you don’t need railings, bud
will high winds pick that up like a sail?
If you're worried about high winds you can tie the project down using earth/hurricane anchors. They're cheap and easy to install:
www.amazon.com/Jayzod-Shelters-Canopies-Trampoline%EF%BC%8C4-Included/dp/B08H4DZCV4
@@Buildtuff thanks
What happens if there is heavy wind or a hurricane? Does it get picked up and fly away like a sail?
For tie down you can use earth anchors like they use for sheds or tents which you can find here:
www.amazon.com/VASGOR-Anchors-Diameter-Canopies-Securing/dp/B08RN2NH9R
This will give you peace of mind in the event of extreme wind events and is simple to install.
I followed this video and did something really similar for a 12x12 deck. The problem is that my overhang with the blocking has some sag to it when I step on it. Did you encounter this problem?
Oh no! I'm just starting to build my deck and am worried about having the same problem. Were you able to determine the root cause and/or a fix?
what do you do when you need to run joists longer than 16ft? lets say 25?
So long as they're supported in line with your local span tables then you're good to go. 25ft would just require more supports along the span. If you can't find 25ft then you could butt join the joists with a support under the join and then screw a plate that goes across both joists. This article (#6) shows you a demonstration:
www.davidcosby.co.uk/joining-timbers/
Is the turf block code allowed? Am just not sure that my city will allow that
Codes vary from region to region. Saying that, floating decks that use deck blocks are very common and if a floating deck is below a certain size it doesn't require a permit. In terms of code, the key is that it can't be attached to a fixed structure. In terms of TuffBlock itself, it's gone through rigorous testing to become ICC certified which you can view here:
icc-es.org/report-listing/esr-4628/
Just learning.............Why not wet the paver base to make it settle in?
Great video guys. 👍😃 I recently learned a cool technique so you don’t have to rip down your last decking board….
Only fix off 1 side of the joists and let the other side hand long…. When you get close to the other side with your decking then you can figure out where your last board lands….. and trim your joists to suit. :) For an open area like that it would work really well :)
I tried to do this myself but somewhere along the way I forgot I was doing that and now I’m gonna have a weird end piece lol. Too far along to fudge the spaces too
What is the black stuff you used on the post after you cut it to retreat it?? Help PLEASE
Hi James - let me get in touch with the builder to find out the specific brand of sealant we used when building this deck. Hopefully he remembers! If in doubt any all purpose lumber sealant will do the trick.
The product is a tar based in ground timber protector. Which country are you from? This is one in Australia which is similar:
www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-1l-monocel-in-ground-timber-protector_p0039110?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNIJsuuHk7q8WnWzXQVOvO0dcLptvl2_VLiiG2RtVEbUghMupGwtIHhoCOTgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
are you using 2x6 or 2x8 boards?
What confused me was at 5.14, why the post isnt inserted into the tuff block to determine that the bearer i level, when the uphill end is in the tuffblock?? How can it be level at the lower end, once it is inserted????
Definitely going to give this a go
Awesome, good luck with the build John
I have tried everything I know how to make a floating deck, but it still wont float! Do I need to put it in the water first?
Is there a way to anchor the Tuff Blocks so the floating deck doesn't become a flying deck in extreme weather?
Yes, you'll want to use earth/hurricane anchors. These auger into the soil and then attach to the subframe. They're typically use with large scale tents or sheds, but also work great for floating decks:
www.amazon.com/Jayzod-Shelters-Canopies-Trampoline%EF%BC%8C4-Included/dp/B08H4DZCV4
You can also use duckbill earth anchors, and we made a short demonstration video here:
ua-cam.com/users/shorts1HuYofBBTD4
About how much did this project cost? I'd like to do something similar in my backyard, but it'd be nice to know what to expect for an estimated cost.
This is awesome! I’d love to have a floating deck and fire pit in my backyard!
Go for it :) Hopefully this video has shown you how achievable it is.
@@Buildtuff for sure! I’ve started researching TuffBlocks and am getting deck plans drawn up.
@@francescagalati95 We'd love to see how it turns out.
Inam building a deck soon. Where can I get these?
Great to hear! You can purchase TuffBlocks in Lowe's (USA), Home Depot (CAN) or Bunnings (AUS). Alternatively you can purchase directly online at www.buildtuff.com
The Excavating hand tool looks like a tool that I remember from Thailand
Hey guys, If I set a jacuzzy on top that deck it will be ok???
For a typical sized jacuzzi then yes. TuffBlocks are load rated to 1700 lbs each, and break tested to 11,000 lbs per block. To be safe, it's good to use more directly under the jacuzzi itself and double check your numbers! We've had lots of jacuzzies built with TuffBlocks underneath, and we've had someone using 6 IBC water tanks weighing over 6 tons on top. So they're more than strong enough.
This is indeed very helpful and has given me confidence on building a floating deck. The only problem I can't get my mind around, and wasn't really covered in the video, is how do you level the two corner tuff blocks in relation to each other? I noticed in the video that one of the top corners ended up having a post. Also, my deck is going to be 21 feet wide, so I will need to have two pieces of lumber on my joist hanger sides. Do I join them together first? Or can it be done one at a time? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Leslie, you're right...we didn't cover in detail that top left corner post with the mini post.
The best solution is going to be using a string line with stakes and a mini spirit level on the string. This channel 'Essential Craftsman' has the best video on UA-cam for using string line:
ua-cam.com/video/cv6BdwMe560/v-deo.html
The key is to not worry about the level of the TuffBlock, but to make sure it's completely flat. Once you know the height required using a string line, then cut your post to height. You're correct, the top left TuffBlock did have a very small post and that was to counter the slight slope. If you do this correctly for the top end joist and one cross joist then the other 2 should be perfectly level as well.
Hope this helps!
Any advice on what to do if settling occurs?
Just burn it down and start over
Is putting a post on a tuffblock and putting cross piece that is secured to the post sitting in the 2 by space in the same tuffblock then running to the next tuffblock good
Hey Richie, what you're describing sounds like it would work perfectly.
However we'd love to know more. If you want to reach out to describe your project in more detail (possibly through a picture/diagram) feel free to get in touch: marketing@buildtuff.com
@@Buildtuff building a wood shed
I cannot send pic, keeps getting address unknown. Please allow me or send separate email
@@richienatale8861 Sorry it didn't work. You can try either 'info@buildtuff.com' or my personal email 'oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com'
@@Buildtuff hi neither email worked, both got bounced back. I am building a woodshed. I want to have the post and the joists in the same tuffblock
4:35 1st mistake circular saw no earplugs on yet has around his neck. Almost perfect but 1st error...
How stable if hit with a lawnmower? Would it move or slide? When I say lawnmower, I mean like a riding or zero turn.
The deck itself is going to weigh around 1500-2000 lbs (depending on what's on top) and with the wide base and compacted ground then it's not going to go anywhere. It's the equivalent of a small car.
Can you use a ground cloth or weed Barrier with Tuffblocks?
Yeah definitely. It was used in our latest video with Austin from Chicago who built his deck using weed mat.
Is it the same process if I were laying the tuffblocks on a sloped concrete slab?
TuffBlocks are designed primarily for ground where the surface under each block is level. How sloped is the concrete slab?
@@Buildtuff the slope is about 5 degrees
same question here, my concrete patio has very minor slope, not sure if OK to use TuffBlock
I have an uneven asphalt driveway and some grass on the side i want to do the width, how do I level the asphalt?
Can this tuffblock be used directly to that floor?
I'll appreciate any answer or suggestions
Hi Andres - it all depends on how steep your asphalt is. You might be able to get away with a very slight angle. What is the slope %? Have you checked out the walkway video? This walkway was built on a very slight slope: ua-cam.com/video/PRuNK1WUYwQ/v-deo.html
@@Buildtuffhi, driveway problem is not the slope or angle, my issue is that i have yo lift the poles for a three feet high deck, so the driveway floor is inestable . How moldable is the base of these tuffblocks? My concern is the staggering of the block after i install the 4x4 pole and frame deck...
@@Buildtuff or tilted
@@andresmorales4407 If you can message me at oliver.truswell@buildtuff.com I can give you better answers in more detail. Photos would be a great help to see the problem you're dealing with
what's the composition of the paver base?
We're not 100% sure of it's composition but usually it's a combination of different aggregate materials such as sand, crushed rock, clay, crusher dust etc.