Whetstone Grinder Build - Part 2
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- G'day everyone,
This is part 2 of making a whetstone grinder for sharpening my tools. Part 1 can be found here • Whetstone Grinder Buil...
The purpose of the grinder is to grind sharp edges on my tools. A normal grinder spins too fast and produces too much heat and dust. This grinder is much slower and submerges a part of the stone in water to keep the heat down and to stop dust and grit. There is also a honing wheel to remove the burr.
A tormek grinder costs over $1000 AUD which I can not justify, so I made this one instead. I hope you enjoy the video.
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
0:45 - Grinding Wheel
3:44 - Tool Sharpening Jig
8:09 - Making The Water Pan
10:52 - Front Cover
12:06 - MDF Honing Wheel
14:32 - Grinder Complete - Наука та технологія
I'm glad to see that you took something that was out of whack and were able to put it in whack.
Cool tool, I love seeing the rabbit hole of building a worm gear cutter to make a worm drive to make a grinder to sharpen your plane to make furniture.
Especially furniture that you can put worm gear cutters into ...
The circle of "knife".
Hehehe:)
I make violins in my spare time- I use a regular cloth buffing wheel with green oxide to hone my tools to razor sharp- considering those cloth buffing wheels are only a few bucks it’s worth it in my books. I’ve also used the back of an old leather belt as a manual strop.. I’m sure you could glue a belt to your MDF wheel and be set! Enjoyed the build, hope it serves your sharpening needs for years to come!
You could glue a leather belt around that MDF wheel. Neatly bevel the beginning and end and glue it with a good contact adhesive.
That is a really good suggestion Michel! ... but also a little bit helpless ... or without possibly the right words: The last resort? hehehe.
Just joking a little bit:) You know that the saddler or belt maker also had to get his raw materials? It hurts my heart a bit to waste a belt on this when you can buy exactly the same raw materials without practically wasting a good belt. But you're right: a good idea and a last resort at the same time:) I wish that your trousers stay up and have a good one, Michel!:)
Edit: Just a thought: I think we won't get happy with cheap Chinese Imitation leather. And a good belt out of natural and processed leather may not even be the best choice, as it was processed to hold trousers and skirts and not break metal-edges. And the most important: The real leather ones aren't really cheap... :) (40-50 $ and more)
@@dieSpinnt If there is no old belt that can be used, he could simply buy a leather strip. I have seen strips saddle leather 50 inch long 1.5 inch wide at Amazon for around € 14,-
It is better to have a sharp tool you never use, than a dull tool you never use. :)
What better reason to choose a grinding wheel. So that you can “sharpen the braised carbide lathe tooling that you don’t use, and still won’t use”. 🤣Priceless logic, which makes you so special. Keep it up. 👏👏👍😀
God dam. Everyone's an expert in UA-cam comment sections. I think this grinder is pretty dope! Was looking to build my own somehow with a windshield (or wind screen) wiper motor like Stefan Gotteswinter did back in the day, only way lower tolerance and appeal lol.
Maybe the "actually" comments are hidden, but everyone seems pretty positive. Because his design is pretty good, and should make consistent edges without drawing back the temper. I haven't finished the video, but as long as he addresses the manufacturer defect of the excessive radial runout, it'll definitely be a nice sharpener.
A whetstone grinder is definitely useful. I unfortunately overpaid for my Jet one, but it's still very good to use with the stone it came with.
Tip for using your wood chisel: You are using it upside down. If you use it the way you are, with the bevel on the top, the tip of the chisel can only go down into the material that you are chiseling. If you put the beveled face on the bottom, you can direct the tip of the chisel to cut down, up, or level into the material you are cutting.
You may find that keeping your chisels at an angle to the work will give you a cleaner, easier shearing cut.
Also, by putting your plane on its side will help protect your blade from nicks and damage.
Plane iron camber is an essential subtlety in the craft. A bit of the secret magic that makes it all work. Sometimes the camber is very slight. Imperceptible really. But it matters when using the tool. An iron with no camber and square corners leaves tracks flattening and you can't adjust jointing. As in you can't influence the angle by favoring one side of the plane sole or the other. The slightest cambers are made in the honing process by just applying pressure to the corners of the plane iron. Heavier cambers are made by radially grinding the irons. I just figured I'd bring all of that up. The whole camber issue. As it seems to be ignored here.
It occurs to me that if you have a grinding wheel that wobbles and runs out, you could glue a solid plastic plug in the hole, mount the wheel in the lathe chuck (carefully, don't squeeze too hard) and bore a true hole through it. That should get you pretty close. A lot better than the nested bushings that come with the wheel.
I've been watching for a couple of years now, I think I found you when I was considering buying a mini lathe. I don't know how it is behind the camera, but I'm very impressed by the calm problem-solving and especially the results it's having : on your workshop and subcriber count! It's very impressive what you've been able to build with relatively limited space and resources. I look forward to seeing what is coming next !
Great results there mate
Great job! Anything you make provides more satisfaction, and you did some nice work. At the end of the day - you used it, it did what you needed and you didn’t spend a ton of money on it. And as an added bonus, you used skills gained along the way. That’s something to be proud of.
I only occasionally have to/get to use a lathe or mill or grinder for my work so I am enjoying getting my fix vicariously through your projects. Keep up the awesome work!
You did a great job. I was worried about the pan walls not being high enough for slinging water but it seems like you nailed it.
Love the POVMEK! Take that big Grindr... #fightthepower ❤
Well, that's a nice looking new tool that's working well.
Cheers 👍💪✌
Excellent work. You should be proud.
Super awesome. Congrats on the sweet new tool!!
Great build. I really like the tool holder. I'm not too sure about your use of plastic for your bushings though. A critical factor in preventing the stone from wobbling is the bearing shoulder where the flange for the stone rests. I fear the plastic would be almost instantly distorted when the nut is tightened.
Kicking goals. Cheers.
I'd agree with many of the other comments. First, I love the grinder overall! I may be using it for some inspiration on my own build. I'd reverse the wheel direction, though - The blade should be "cutting" into the stone wheel. But bear in mind should be turning away from the edge for that stropping wheel if you switch directions!
Great build, thanks a lot for sharing!
Very nice build!
outstanding work
Very nice work.
That's a great job, thanks for sharing the project.
Excellent work.
I have a Tormek, but I see yours is every bit as good as mine.
Fantastic job, top man👍
another good tool!!
nice work!
Nice job and solidly constructed, I've seen an old Tormek that had failed and wasn't impressed with the design given what they charge for them. I think your use of acetal for the bearings is a better choice than nylon, it machines better and isn't prone to moisture absorption which can cause nylon to change dimensions.
Tormeks always struck me as a bit of a come on. They are wicked expensive. I'm doing OK with my homemade dry grinder over here. The trick to using dry grinders is to just run the right wheel on them. Which isn't a hard wheel. You want a soft friable tool room wheel. They run a lot cooler. Soft wheels wear a lot faster but if all you're doing is sharpening they still last a long time. I haven't worn one out yet.
I love the simplicity how you designed and built this machine, well done, very good result !
cheers ben.
Great build, enjoyed following the whole process. Have newer seen anyone make a Tormek-style grinder, repect for having a go at it!
A few experiences from owning an older Tormek that might be usefull:
Angled, larger sides to the water tray makes the machine way less messy to use. Also put a magnet in the tray to catch shavings, as these have a tencency to start to rust and stick to the tray. A few drops of oil-water emulsion cutting fluid helps fight the rusting as well.
The ability to adjust the height of the bar that supports the tools is a central feature of the Tormek system. Makes it way easier to adjust tool angles, adapt to different types of holders etc.
The mdf wheel works great for very accurate angles, and probably best with some sort of tool support. A good choise if you mainly intend to use the machine for metal turning tools. The leather covered wheels are better for freehand use and makes a more rounded hone.
Keep up the good work!
MDF is better than soft leather for most applications. Very hard leather (such as rawhide) is best of all.
That would work good for kitchen knives! I love it.
Very good result, I like it! I'm glad you trued that wheel up though, watching the wobble was driving me nuts!!
Nice job.
very cool!!!, now i want to make one, mostly for my metal scraper
Steve Summers made one not too long ago on his channel. You might check that out.
I sugest to you to put neodimium magnet on water tray, to collect metal particles from grinding
You are becoming the most famous and brave toolmaker in the world. Not kidding.
You're definitely getting better at tig welding. Keep at it
Very nice design Artisan Makes. If you want to save some time and money try adapting a stainless steel baking tray for your water pan. You can buy them on line for about $5.
Great tool, super useful! You can get a variable DC transformer really cheap, the 775 motor is very forgiving at voltages between 6v and 20v. I have one that doesn't complain at 25v.
Jobs a Gooden as we say in the UK, great content in all your videos keep up the great work
Absolutely great build! A great follow-up build would be a gouge jig. Something that allows you to rotate a gouge on a set axis to keep your angle and get a very true sharpen.
Speaking to the wheel bore. I have a Tormek and almost every wheel has a bore and surfaces that aren't square.
They recommend using the side of the wheeel for the backs of planes and such but it never works because of the wobble.
Love the vids.... But I think you need a theme song for when your hacksawing all the time. I'm gonna recommend ACDC big guns because you gotta have some huge arms by now🤣🤣🤣🤣😁😁😁😁😁 keep up the good work and I hope you enjoy the laugh
To your comment about a diamond wheel-
I would be careful going down that route. Diamond abrasives remove a lot of material pretty darn fast. If you accidentally start on the wrong angle or introduce too much pressure, it can lead you down a rabbit hole trying to correct it. I have a lapping process that I’ve implemented at work and I quickly moved away from diamond abrasives and have stuck with #1200 silicon carbide since. Time/accuracy/finish seems to be the best with silicon carbide when it comes to slower processes imo- even when compared to super high grit diamond. For your process, it would probably be fine, but I wanted to throw a word of caution since I’ve delt with it myself!
nice !
Nice!
Instead of gluing that tool rest bar in place you should added a thumb screw to allow you to slide the guide back and forth between lapping/strop side and the grinding wheel. 👍👍
looking good! i was thinking about your unsupported worm screw drive end, and inspired by vanover custom's recent slow-speed grinder build, had the idea that you could just extend the near end of the worm drive and use it to hold a bearing, rather than having to deal with attaching it to the case or anything like that.
To get the best results, you should build a holder for the drills that also slides on the jig bar...
That way, you keep the exact same angle when rotating the drill to grind each flute which should keep them centered and even which will produce a better cut when drilling metal...
Super cool! Pun intended!
For giggles you can Add a third arm for a 1/2 wide finger belt sander it is the hot thing for a lot of knife lappers in the states. Mostly got popular with some tool companies because you can make a convex blade shape with less Tallent and cheaper jigs. Far less sustainable than those big old wheels though. Cool project BTW fun to watch.
I know you have a small workshop and space is at a premium, but have you considered trying powdercoating for your parts? You'd need to put an oven somewhere but you might be able to store the gun etc inside it when not in use. I know everything comes down to space in that workshop but i think it might improve the quality of your corrosion prevention over spray cans. Excellent build for a budget as always 👌
Great
Next episode, attachment for drill bits
Blinking excellent! Good work chap. No need to pour shame on your welds on the water bath btw, even once you've tried your best to grind off the zinc, previously galvanised steel is a 🤬 to weld nicely.
Hey, you can use the grinder to smooth out those awesome tig welds😀
That's a great result mate👍
If you ever need something folded and welded in stainless like that little tray feel free to hit me up, it would be fun to do a collab.
I have a leather strop, a leather stropping belt for my belt sander, and two mdf wheels for my bench grinder. One for black rouge, one for green. And yes, if you’re sharpening knives, try the green chromium oxide for the final edge polishing. The white aluminum oxide does alright, but that green is a machine. Know what I mean? Screen Jean clean peen? The mdf does just as well as the leather strop does. I kind of prefer the hand strop though. The delicate work seems to come out better when it’s done by hand carefully.
I was thinking of doing something similar but with with angle grinder pinions, you can find them as replacement parts and are dirt cheap, they come with a key so machining a slot in the motor's shaft would be pretty easy
An angle grinder bevel gear setup wouldn't give the reduction required without additional gearing. If you want something off the shelf you could probably use a windscreen wiper motor.
id like to see a drill sharpening jig on this, that's able to slide on the stem for equal coverage of the grinding wheel
Rather than just using the MDF, i glued an old leather belt (the kind that keeps trousers up) to mine and it I has been great
you should add a dressing attachment to the 16mm bar so you can true up the silicon carbide wheel
So many bloody experts on you tube l wonder what they have made 😂😊
The joys of home made tools, I've always been amused by the idea of all the UA-cam machinists/engineers rebuilding the world after World War III
could glue on a bit of leather, or maybe have a few mdf wheels where you glue on various grits of sand paper or such. might even work with some felt for polishing things up.
Excelent video mate.
I'm thinking to so some modifications in my sharpening setup and will use some of your ideas.
By the away, I'm eager to see what would be your approach for a knife sharpening dig ( please, consider doing a video about it soon 😊 )
u should include in the videos footage of u do the calculations/positioning/planning, watching the actual machining is nice but seeing some of the back ground stuff is quite interesting.
Looking good, though I'm not convinced on the aluminium rail. You can get away with the jigs being aluminium, but I think the rail will begin to gall and distort fairly rapidly over time. My version is using 316 stainless, jigs are getting brass bushings.
I'm late to the party, and if it's already been addressed in the comments, I apologize. I don't have a grinder for sharpening plane irons and chisels, although I wish I did at times. When sharpening your plane iron or chisel, it's important to flatten the back. I would sharpen and strop the bevel on your grinder and then take it to a flat stone to knock the bur off of the back. The other common problem people have using hand tools on wood is the inability to read the grain direction of the wood. Always plane and chisel with the wood grain, and remember that end grain isn't easy for anyone.
To remove galvanization from sheet metal...soak in a tub of vinegar for a few hours, the acid will etch it off pretty well (saw it on YT...ya know YT certified lol)
Ooh...also a strip of leather glued around that wood wheel then filled with that grinding compound would make one heck of a stropping wheel for knives and such
Very cool on the build! That worm gear is good stuff [nice and slow and plenty of torque]! I wonder if a "bullet brass" one would be a bit more rugged ;)
Keep em coming!!!!
Lye is somewhat more effective (makes a lot of difference when removing thick "hot-dip" zinc layer) and safer too (for the steel, that is) as it dissolves zinc but not steel. So you can just drop a piece of whatever you need remove zinc off of into a bucket with concentrated lye (caustic soda - the one used for unclogging drains is good enough) solution, and leave it overnight, and sleep well knowing steel won't be attacked.
Also, cover the bucket - it will not only ensure safety of all the spiders in yer shop, but (as added benefit) will prevent CO2 absorption from atmosphere, which would turn caustic soda into baking soda - and these two ARE NOT the same "sodas" ;-)
Awesome, the only thing that i would have changed is the aluminum rod for a stainless one just so it lasts longer
those motors are used in 12v and 18 v drills coming out of china , this means those motors are cheap and easy to replace but also you have that headroom to speed up the motor by increasing the voltage upto about 20v with no issues in case you need that additional speed ,
You really should put a magnet in the bottom of the pan. When the sludge is freefloating it will stay on the wheel and pack in the grit. You'll end up having to resurface it more often than expected.
If you want the best possible Sharp Edge, you should have bought the Diamond Wheels...
If you really want to ensure the motor doesn't get wet, next time you take the case apart, add a thin bead of silicone sealant along each edge/mating face and on the threads of each bolt, then even if the case gets wet, the silicone will ensure it stays out of the motor area...
Great build. A little wax on the sole of the plane will further improve the shoothness of the cuts :)
Hey, it came out so good looking.. If you were to sell this you have to make a case of comparison, for your own use you know what you want and what you got!
I would really like to see this adapted for a knife
Whaaat!, using a grinder, I expected you to use your trusty hacksaw ;)
You don't need to worry about your gear, some garage door openers use Delrin for their driven gear.
Love your channel, mate. You will soon realize that a silicone carbide wheel is very slow for grinding HSS.
Smart tool 😀 can you glue an old belt round the honing wheel?
👍👍
If you use a square rod as a guide with a rounded end that is clamped in, you can actually set an angle of attack and not rely on the actual tool you want to sharpen to find the "right" angle.
I just love how intensely SQUARE it is
You could fasten a thick piece of leather around the MDF, could possibly give you better results.
Nice little grinder :)
Have you considered making a small press brake for your sheet metal workings?
You may find that a CBN wheel will do the job for you. There are a number ranging from $51 on Ebay to $230 at Carbatec.. Cool build mate.
I'm not too sure such wheels are suitable in a grinder running at such a slow speed. I'd find a way to check that out before purchasing one.
@@crichtonbruce4329 At least Ryobi low speed grinder I've seen comes with one.
@@lawriealush-jaggs1473 Thanks. I didn't know that. All the ones I've seen advertised were for normal speed bench or pedestal grinders.
What would your thoughts be on someone purchasing a mini lathe and this being their first project? Asking for a friend...
Since your shaft is not perfect and the hole in the grinding wheel is off center you will want to re-true the wheel every time you remove it because the clocking will most likely change when remounting. The eccentric motion would make your grinding angle change by a few degrees during each revolution.
This can be compensated for by drawing a line on the spindle and the wheel when taking it off. As any remedy prevention is the cure.
He could drawl a line on the non smooth surface of the wheel, the slick soft plastic of the spacer and the smooth metal spindle. Good luck trying to perfectly line up all three while tightening a nut.
A better suggestion would be to keyway everything or ... hear me out ... redress the wheel.
@@pb222221 its not about perfection, its about good enough
I can't remember what plastic you used, but for comparison my ebike motor (bbs02) uses a metal to nylon worm drive and while it does have a MUCH coarser thread it also deals with much higher forces and goes for 1000s of hours so... seems good :)
Make a tool grinder ❤❤
... does the mdf honing really also work for HSS tools for the lathe ?? (just recently ordered an finishing stone tho but i have access to plenty of mdf offcuts, so.....)
Doesn’t make as big of a difference to the hss lathe tools and drills as it does to the chisels. I’m the future I’m going to skip honing the lathe tools and use a small diamond stone I have
is the reamer holder at 6:35 made from an old toolmakers clamp with some bars welded onto it?
I think it’s some mild steel square bar with the ends turned down and a v cut in the middle. Held together with screws. That’s my best guess since the tool itself is probably 90-100 years old