I admire your patience and willpower. I don’t even fancy cutting a piece of 2x4 with handsaw ( lazy, I know) and here you are chopping blocks of steel with hacksaw.
I just bought a band hacksaw because of having to cut big chunks of steel ..hand power works but its so much nicer to get it done accurately without muscle pain and in less than a minute.
@@TalRohan Hand power has its place though I find that ferrying a part around a room, pulling out machines, and setting jigs just doesn't work for me, so I reach for my hand tools a lot
@@skilletborne I get that too. Especially with long pieces of stock...moving those around to a mchine or even getting a safe spot to use and angle grinder sucks
Nice project Tip for deburring acetal: use a fine brass wire brush Acetal is also notoriously hard to glue, better just crossdrill shaft and gear and pin it in place. More diameter on the flange would help too
And lose the main thing that differentiates him from every other metalworking channel? Plus he gets hundreds of comments like yours, which boosts his "viewer engagement".
@@johncoops6897 I think a power hacksaw would be a great project and one that I would enjoy watching both for the making of it as well as the design of it.
I had a thought that if water getting past the bushings were to be a problem you could do what RC boats do. RC boat propeller shafts are a threaded shaft that is constantly pushing water out of the shaft tube. If you were to thread the shaft that goes through the bushing like 1 thread per inch or 1 thread per 25mm and keep it a shallow cut I don't think it would overly wear the bushing but would help to keep the water out. Looking forward to the next video.
Don't RC boats work with box seals, or sometimes even labyrinth seals? A threaded shaft would only push water out when it's running, when it stops it would leak if it doesn't have any other means to keep the water out.
From the ones I have worked on there were no seals just grease on what looks like twisted wires that made a thread that would push the water to the propeller. That's why I thought a single thread would work on this grinder.
Great video as always! 👍👍 A super cheap alternative to something like this, and water/oil stones is Sandpaper on a sheet of Tempered Glass. That's how I sharpen all my plane irons, and chisels. I took a sheet of tempered glass I had from an old Stereo Cabinet I had laying around, bc I don't throw anything out lol, and I glued sandpaper to with spray adhesive. I put 60, 80, 150, 220, & 320 grit on one side, and 400, 600, 800, 1000, & 2000 grit on the other side of the glass. So I can just set it on my bench, and sharpen them with the cheap little angle guide I got of scamazon for like 15 dollars. Works great for me.
Sandpaper made economic sense before diamond plates dropped in price. But things have changed. Now the cheapest honing system is diamond plates. I can get a diamond plate for not much more than what a few sheets of sandpaper costs. Diamonds will cut faster and longer than sandpaper will too. On my maintained tools I really only use 1,000 grit. From there I polish on ceramic stones and strop. How much all the polishing does for me is debatable. But I like it so I do it. I could probably strop right off the plate and have a keen edge.
One thing you might consider is to press on a thin washer which isn't touching the housing or stone to provide a slinger to keep the water from crawling into the bearing or on the frame. This is common on wet motors and does well.
I think your design concept is fantastic. It's pretty basic from what I see right now and will be very to work on, modify or change components. Great build, great video and can't wait to see the rest of your low speed grinder. Thanks for sharing.
I like your design and build very much. You will still need a quality fine grit oil or water stone for honing though! A leather strop glued to a board charged with green polishing compound (for stainless steels) will also be a big help.
Nice work and very nice simple design. A truly great approach to forming a worm wheel and material choice. If you do need some support on the screw, it doesn't look overly difficult in comparison to all you have done already. Enjoyed the build, cheers!
I think I agree with you on the run time. Just a matter of a couple of minutes at a time. I bet the math to figure out the reduction of the motor was fun. Nice job.
To help bond the plastic gear to the shaft. You could have knurled the shaft. Apart from getting a rougher surface, this would lead to a good press fit as it pushes some material up.
Regarding the supporting the far side of the motor, could you not just take a thin rectangle of steel that barely pressfits between the top and bottom plates, then notch in the angle of the motor bracket? That way the plate wouldnt flex since you'd have "3" contact points. Notching it at the perfect angles should be easy too, you can just set it next to the bracket set at the perfect angle while its off, then mark of everything exposed and cut the negative out. Even cutting the negative should just be adjust to the proper angle in a vise compared to the slotting tool, then flip around reverse
Nice job. And certainly MUCH better than the "Scheppach" garbage you can buy nowadays. I bought the "TiGer 2000" maybe 3 years ago after having seen an older "TiGer" model from the 1990s made of metal which worked really well. The "TiGer 2000" is nearly unusable in comparison. Completely made of rather weak plastic, so the metal tool rest cannot be fixed properly in any position. As a bonus it flexes with the whole housing as soon as you put a little pressure on it. Besides a noisy and weak motor it came with a VERY unbalanced grinding wheel you have to take half a centimeter off to get it running properly and a very much out of round leather buffing wheel you can't do anything about. I ended up 3D printing a halfway decent tool rest addon for an old, cheap (30-40€) generic bench grinder-whetstone combination thing I already had and use this instead.
Neat! Great tool, and I need one myself for all the sharpening and delicate grinding/shaping I do. I use a couple of those 775 motors, and (depending on the brand) they can be run from 10-30V! It will definitely need a bearing on the end of the worm shaft because the motor's shaft and bushings are so tiny. (5mm!).
And the slow decent into hand tool woodworking has begun! Instead of buying honing jigs for stones id recommend watching Rob Cosmans 30 seconds to sharp video, his technique for holding the plane blade is very good.
great to see videos on making actual things as opposed to videos on how to make things for the tool. while i love to see “making improvements/tools for the lathe or mill” i ALSO love to see those things making useful things!
Thank you so much for showing step by step and explaining what you are doing ! I have copied some of your projects , ( the simple ones ,..lol ) but I always learn so much from your videos .. This is a project I definitely want to copy .. however , ,, I’m not at the level of making my own worm gear as of yet ! Wow ! …. PS ,,.. I also watched the other video with the first worm gear you made along with the housing. .. Really impressive! I’m looking forward to this one ! Great job !
the subtitles on youtube are priceless, at one point you get "a whole drooled!!" who knew that worked lol looks brilliant so far, I'm looking forward to the next part I have a really old hand cranked wet grinder that is absolutely joyous to use...if I get some rests or jigs made for it it will be even better (looking for ideas) ...A large part of the reason I bought it was because of the price of motor driven ones but honestly I wouldnt go back to hi speed motor grinding ..I like the control too much
I've got a WEN grinder like that, and it definitely was a good thing to make. For a stropping wheel I'd use 5-7 micron diamond powder mixed with a tiny bit of glycerin, on a plywood wheel covered in leather. For the water container, I'd make it easily removable, ideally a slide in part. I broke mine, so I currently use an aluminum baking pan lol
So far so good, don't think you'll need a second mount on the worm gear, but you could fit one via an angle into the drive from the top if you do decide to add it later. Part 2 will maybe be all you need to be able to sharpen your tools, this will be very versatile for sure. Thanks 👍💪✌
If you plan to stick with plastic bushing, Igus has a great plastic plain bearing selection guide which may be a better fit in case the bearings need to be replaced in the future. I am surprised you did not pick bronze for the worm gear and bushings with possibly a greasing system. I like the simplicity of this build to quickly produce a functioning machine.
The worm drive is a much better design that the one you showed from Machinery House.. that just uses a friction drive on the inside of the honing wheel, which makes it almost impossible to get the wheels to turn concentric.
I'd keep an eye on that plastic gear staying attached, as Delrin/POM/Acetal don't chemically bond, which is how that epoxy is supposed to work. I've tried and failed many a time to glue that stuff until my grandfather told me this. Some sort of mechanical thing like pins, a keyed thing, or good old press fit would be your best bet. Maybe a good excuse to cast a chunk of brass or aluminum bronze and remake the thing lol
Motor-mount plate have enough size/material to fit a bearing, which would drastically reduce the side-load on the motor. And given the direction of the load you really only need support on one side of the other end of the worm so a half-circle bushing would work and fit given that you can turn away some of the worm that isn't needed/used on that end.
Funny you should upload this now, I'm a bit further ahead in the process of making a whetstone sharpener myself. ...Using a dolly waiter high-duty 2hp motor with a 100:1 reduction that I had available, mine's not too dissimilar to yours just a little larger scale, though I also have a pulley off the main shaft to run a belt sander.
Awesome work man! You might not be a woodworker by trade.. looks damn good to me. I'm not sure how to comment anymore without being offensive these days. I like to use the heavier oils for steel.. anything with sulfur in it, and the thin stuff for Aluminum, but that's me.
Just a bit of design constructive criticism. Depending on threaded fasteners for a repeatable or even square assembly isn't recommended. Much better would have been end milling shallow slots for the vertical sides to locate in. That way there's a mechanical alignment method and the bolts then just hold everything together. Mechanically that also makes a stronger and more rigid assembly. Cutting something like splines, and even inaccurate ones on the shaft that was left a little over size and then press fitting your worm gear hub over those would have allowed the metal to then act like an automatic broach. You'd then have a positive drive method between the driven worm wheel and the shaft. With plastics you can get away with quite a bit.
I appreciate the advice. But i did and it did not work. Almost like there was a bent shaft. I got myself a Tormak and had no issues. I probably just got a damaged one
@@Gravattack - if you true the outside surface of the wheel, it is irrelevant whether the shaft is bent or not (make sense?). I also true the sides of my wheels, as that reduces wobble. One important thing is the balance of the wheels. Cheap ones are notorious for having different density (of grit) and that affects the balance. If the machine isn't bolted down, it can literally shake the tool rests and whatever you are trying to grind. I'd say that was the a actual problem you were experiencing. Cheers 🍺
@@johncoops6897 Mate that machine is long gone, I tried everything. It took loads off the stone, but if you changed the stone then it was out again. almost like a camshaft lobe. it was not edge to edge, it was like it was an oval. It took loads off the wheel trying to true it. I felt it might have been dropped and bent the shaft. The Tormek has never given me any grief
The design I've seen appears to have the motor shaft drive the outside diameter of a large wheel on the buffing wheel side. I couldn't find a design with worm gears driving the shaft directly. Regardless, it'll be interesting to see how the gears treat you. Thanks for replying
Wow, thank goodness you didn't make it identical to your off hand (bench) grinder. All the bench grinders here in the "states" seem to use 1/2 BSW thread
I took the plunge & bought a Tormek DF-200 Diamond Fine Wheel (other grades available) not cheap , but they will never change size,need dressing or hollow, dish or groove, after a bad mishap with grit stones,left them damp in workshop, had power cut & temperature dropped to minus whaterever & the stones cracked.
I hope you're planning on putting covers on that so you dont get water/grinding dust in the motor or gears. Could probably just caulk some sheet metal or plastic on it and call it a day if you wanted.
There are two benefits of a lower RPM. The first is less heat which is critical for preserving the temper/heat treatment. The second is precision/control. You generally don't need to remove much material for sharpening tools. No need to dispatch a spider with a grenade.
May I ask something very stupid? I have hard times taping holes for screws. I think it’s because the holes are too tight and the taper gets stuck. Is there specific rule like for example : drill 5mm and taper 6 mm? Cheers.
For metric it's really easy, just subtract the pitch from the major diameter - examples: M6x1.0 is 5mm, M8x1.25 is 6.75mm. For imperial you need a thread chart and very likely a set of numbered and/or lettered drill bits.
On a more serious note, 4:53 could someone tell me what the metal rod placed between the plates and the vice jaw helps with while drilling. Is it to adjust the contact point with the vice jaws to automatically become the center when your work piece is close but not quite parallel with the jaws?
@@TradeWorks_Construction I want to say it allows the two plates to center themselves since they aren’t perfectly square (imperfections in factory finish, etc). He doesn’t have them welded together, so it may also help to even them out. That’s my best guess.
@@TradeWorks_Construction Im clamping on hot rolled steel and they weren't the same width. The steel wire squashes slightly as a close the vise and helps clamp both of them equally
I have a 1934 SOUTH BEND HEAVY 10 That I thought was kinda loud when I cut gears 😂 but is it me or is that lathe low on oil? It seems extremely loud. Maybe I had the volume too high….😂
He didn't (properly) clean out the grit and grinding dust from inside the gearbox when he bought it. It's literally chewing itself to pieces, every day he keeps using it. 😢
Hi Artisan Makes! I am now on the spot where I have to buy a bench mill for my few works at home. Mainly machining small parts of 2stroke engines. This means my work is going to be drilling and milling 90% aluminium, 8% mild steel and 2% stainless steel. The Sieg X2.7L Is now up to 1490 euros or 2475 AUD right now and I'm prone to buy that. Would you still buy It at this price? Please let me know, I could use your help. Thank you!
There are very inexpensive and good quality 8" diamond disks that should fit your shaft. you can get grits from 240 all the way up to 1200 or higher. They're wonderful for sharpening carbide or very hard steel. The disks are about 2mm thick, and have grit on 1 side, but you can stick PSA sanding disks on the reverse. They should last forever if ran slowly in water.
I would not expect epoxy to stay bonded to acetal. You could prevent any slippage by machining splines into the acetal gear. They don't need to be properly shaped per standards and don't need to be precision spaced. They just need to provide spaces for the epoxy to fill and lock into place. You could make the splines in the lathe by just hand-wheeling the carriage back and forth. The design is not very good - it puts a large axial thrust on the motor bearings, which are not designed to take it. The worm should be supported by bearings at both ends, and coupled to the motor by a splined or square drive.
The common accepted practice in the craft is to grind the primary bevel and hone a secondary bevel for hand tools. You do need a bit better hone stone though. Don't judge the method by what you have. I'm a big proponent of using a honing guide too. The consistency of the results cannot be matched. Sharpening is a contentious topic though. There's a lot of BS out there. I guess in the end everyone has to find their own way.
@@artisanmakes A low angle plane the iron is bevel up and a high angle is bevel down. But you sharpen them both the same. You get them sharp. Sharp is sharp. Quite frankly there's really only one angle you should be sharpening all woodworking tools to. That's 30°. That's optimal. I know it sounds arbitrary but it is based on a lot of experience. A lot of people have woodworked. That value has been arrived at collectively. It's just what it is. But in some limited situations you may want an angle a bit off of that. Say if you're paring really soft wood. Then go a little shallower. But for general bench work 30° is the magic number.
it is a good design but there is a reason why bench grinders have large motors and that is torque+speed+longevity that small motor will burn out really quick
I disagree. It’s not even in this video but when we test it under full it’s going to be pulling 3-4 amps. I’ve used these motors in so many projects over the past 10 or so years and it takes a lot more that to kill one of these, and from my experience they are pretty resilient motors.
@@artisanmakesi am not talking about the worm reduction gear or any thing like that but just the motor the motor i doubt was designed to run at full speed for long periods of time the way a bench grinder motor is
@@artisanmakes I doubt the worm gear will work in your design. It's good for generating torque, but what happens when you turn off your grinder? A bench grinder is basically a flywheel. Your worm gear wont be back drivable. Where does all the energy go?
That plastic gear is going get shredded. Without the ability to back feed, there is going to be quite a bit of inertia applied suddenly to the teeth when the motor stops and the two wheels keep trying to spin (even at low speed).
It's well established at this point that you don't have room for a full size band saw, but what about a portable band saw? You can also make / buy mounts for them to essentially turn them in to bench mounted vertical band saws.
huh.. many use acetal bushings, cos many are just cheap crap, with the main objective to be cheap in production. ball bearings or bronse bushings are much, much better. acetal will ware qickly, and you do not wan't the shaft that will wander around (been there, done that) sealed bearings will not last long also. it's not the water that will done the damage. it's water mixed with grinding dust. some kind of "semy labirinth", or similar not contact seal is required (few nice sugesstions in the comments). induction motor is actualy very safe near the watter, cos it's sealed. unlike universal motors that have open construction to remove the scale... dip the parts overnight in citric acid solution. if its not gone in the morning, add more citric acid (can do the same with any mild acid, but citric does not have an odor of vinegar, or myriatic, and it's cheap and available at any grocery) I have done two "reconstructions" of low speed grinder, leaving the motor and gear train from realy cheap, flea market bargains (about 20-30 EUR, probably just material for the frame and any kind of motor will cost more). new shafts, bearings, seals, plates that hold the stone (very important part, espetialy one that is near the bearing), jigs... have few more ideas how to improve them but... it will wait.. working just fine in this configuration. any way.. nice project ps sory for many typos.. broke left wrist two days ago, so typing with one hand after 40 years of "blind typing" is horrible expirience
Pretty much never buy one of the "professional" ones. They are such scams. There's absolutely nothing special about them. Either do as in the video, or just get the classic setup with the belt reduction. The most money one should put into (something like this) is in the stone. Those are what matters the most.
True, although some of the tool sharpening retrofit kits for regular grinders can be pretty good. In all cases, user error and not truing, aligning can make the most expensive machine useless.
unless I’m describing something is a technical document, I generally don’t get too uptight about if I saw screw or bolt. Especially if I’m saying “screwed together” or “bolted in place”. Try doing voice overs, you’ll slip up in some minor details. Cheers
There's no universally agreed apon difference. Some say that a bolt has an unthreaded portion, others that a bolt is a screw that is held in place by a nut, others still that a bolt is externally driven (like an external hex head). But historically a bolt is a smooth sliding shaft. Applying the word bolt to a type of screw is unnecessary and just confuses matters. Especially as the first and third definitions have exceptions, and the second is just dumb because any threaded thing can be held in place with a nut, even a wood screw. A bolt is a rod, normally a metal cylinder, that slides into place to lock a moving part, usually a door or window.
I admire your patience and willpower. I don’t even fancy cutting a piece of 2x4 with handsaw ( lazy, I know) and here you are chopping blocks of steel with hacksaw.
Thankfully I got a break here. These were already pre cut. At least the plate was. :)
I just bought a band hacksaw because of having to cut big chunks of steel ..hand power works but its so much nicer to get it done accurately without muscle pain and in less than a minute.
@@TalRohan Hand power has its place though
I find that ferrying a part around a room, pulling out machines, and setting jigs just doesn't work for me, so I reach for my hand tools a lot
@@skilletborne I get that too. Especially with long pieces of stock...moving those around to a mchine or even getting a safe spot to use and angle grinder sucks
We have seen him cut huge pieces of steal with a hacksaw. Alot of us have offered to give him a band saw lol
Its always a joy to see semi random videos from you coming together a month or half a year later with an "Oh that was what it was for!" exclamation
Exactly. His yak shaving is not at all willy nilly.
Nice project
Tip for deburring acetal: use a fine brass wire brush
Acetal is also notoriously hard to glue, better just crossdrill shaft and gear and pin it in place. More diameter on the flange would help too
The next thing you make should be a power hacksaw
And lose the main thing that differentiates him from every other metalworking channel?
Plus he gets hundreds of comments like yours, which boosts his "viewer engagement".
@@johncoops6897 I think a power hacksaw would be a great project and one that I would enjoy watching both for the making of it as well as the design of it.
You only here for the hacksaw action then
Please do! You can do it!
I had a thought that if water getting past the bushings were to be a problem you could do what RC boats do. RC boat propeller shafts are a threaded shaft that is constantly pushing water out of the shaft tube. If you were to thread the shaft that goes through the bushing like 1 thread per inch or 1 thread per 25mm and keep it a shallow cut I don't think it would overly wear the bushing but would help to keep the water out. Looking forward to the next video.
Don't RC boats work with box seals, or sometimes even labyrinth seals? A threaded shaft would only push water out when it's running, when it stops it would leak if it doesn't have any other means to keep the water out.
From the ones I have worked on there were no seals just grease on what looks like twisted wires that made a thread that would push the water to the propeller. That's why I thought a single thread would work on this grinder.
That grub screw is a brilliant addition.
Great video as always! 👍👍
A super cheap alternative to something like this, and water/oil stones is Sandpaper on a sheet of Tempered Glass. That's how I sharpen all my plane irons, and chisels.
I took a sheet of tempered glass I had from an old Stereo Cabinet I had laying around, bc I don't throw anything out lol, and I glued sandpaper to with spray adhesive. I put 60, 80, 150, 220, & 320 grit on one side, and 400, 600, 800, 1000, & 2000 grit on the other side of the glass.
So I can just set it on my bench, and sharpen them with the cheap little angle guide I got of scamazon for like 15 dollars. Works great for me.
Sandpaper made economic sense before diamond plates dropped in price. But things have changed. Now the cheapest honing system is diamond plates. I can get a diamond plate for not much more than what a few sheets of sandpaper costs. Diamonds will cut faster and longer than sandpaper will too. On my maintained tools I really only use 1,000 grit. From there I polish on ceramic stones and strop. How much all the polishing does for me is debatable. But I like it so I do it. I could probably strop right off the plate and have a keen edge.
Something you can do to help keep the gears engaged is to add a spring to the bottom of the motor to pull it into the gears
I think that's usually called preloading! 🙂
Generally not done; there is a proper running clearance (though it would likely matter little for this application.)
One thing you might consider is to press on a thin washer which isn't touching the housing or stone to provide a slinger to keep the water from crawling into the bearing or on the frame. This is common on wet motors and does well.
12:41 Love the chip here. 😎 I agree, POM makes great bushings.
This is the first time I've been this early to an Artisan Makes video
I think your design concept is fantastic. It's pretty basic from what I see right now and will be very to work on, modify or change components. Great build, great video and can't wait to see the rest of your low speed grinder.
Thanks for sharing.
I like your design and build very much. You will still need a quality fine grit oil or water stone for honing though! A leather strop glued to a board charged with green polishing compound (for stainless steels) will also be a big help.
Nice work and very nice simple design. A truly great approach to forming a worm wheel and material choice. If you do need some support on the screw, it doesn't look overly difficult in comparison to all you have done already. Enjoyed the build, cheers!
Great work! You've been killing it these past few months! Every time I watch your videos, a feel I'm a step closer to getting my own mini-mill.
With such skills in your age, you'll have a bright future ahead of you!
Make an acetal bushing block to support the worm screw. The geometry doesn't look too difficult and it'll clear the case.
yay worm gears! so much fun to make!
what water are you using? i suggest E-girl bath water lmao🤣
I recommend making the bushings with bronze if possible, also the gear.
good video
I think I agree with you on the run time. Just a matter of a couple of minutes at a time. I bet the math to figure out the reduction of the motor was fun. Nice job.
at 2:08 that shop is tooooo clean!
To help bond the plastic gear to the shaft. You could have knurled the shaft. Apart from getting a rougher surface, this would lead to a good press fit as it pushes some material up.
You could add a small brass bushing to support the other end of your spur drive.
Regarding the supporting the far side of the motor, could you not just take a thin rectangle of steel that barely pressfits between the top and bottom plates, then notch in the angle of the motor bracket? That way the plate wouldnt flex since you'd have "3" contact points. Notching it at the perfect angles should be easy too, you can just set it next to the bracket set at the perfect angle while its off, then mark of everything exposed and cut the negative out. Even cutting the negative should just be adjust to the proper angle in a vise compared to the slotting tool, then flip around reverse
Nice job. And certainly MUCH better than the "Scheppach" garbage you can buy nowadays. I bought the "TiGer 2000" maybe 3 years ago after having seen an older "TiGer" model from the 1990s made of metal which worked really well.
The "TiGer 2000" is nearly unusable in comparison. Completely made of rather weak plastic, so the metal tool rest cannot be fixed properly in any position. As a bonus it flexes with the whole housing as soon as you put a little pressure on it.
Besides a noisy and weak motor it came with a VERY unbalanced grinding wheel you have to take half a centimeter off to get it running properly and a very much out of round leather buffing wheel you can't do anything about.
I ended up 3D printing a halfway decent tool rest addon for an old, cheap (30-40€) generic bench grinder-whetstone combination thing I already had and use this instead.
Neat! Great tool, and I need one myself for all the sharpening and delicate grinding/shaping I do. I use a couple of those 775 motors, and (depending on the brand) they can be run from 10-30V! It will definitely need a bearing on the end of the worm shaft because the motor's shaft and bushings are so tiny. (5mm!).
My side are in orbit playing welding noises when working with the plasticweld LOL
You are one of the most talented youtubers I have found.. I really enjoy your videos.. keep up the awesome content!.. have a great day!
And the slow decent into hand tool woodworking has begun! Instead of buying honing jigs for stones id recommend watching Rob Cosmans 30 seconds to sharp video, his technique for holding the plane blade is very good.
very nice work bud! always enjoy your work!
great to see videos on making actual things as opposed to videos on how to make things for the tool. while i love to see “making improvements/tools for the lathe or mill” i ALSO love to see those things making useful things!
What a pleasure 😊 you might consider adding a spring that tension the warm gear against the plastic gear
Thank you so much for showing step by step and explaining what you are doing ! I have copied some of your projects , ( the simple ones ,..lol ) but I always learn so much from your videos .. This is a project I definitely want to copy .. however , ,, I’m not at the level of making my own worm gear as of yet ! Wow ! …. PS ,,.. I also watched the other video with the first worm gear you made along with the housing. .. Really impressive! I’m looking forward to this one ! Great job !
the subtitles on youtube are priceless, at one point you get "a whole drooled!!" who knew that worked lol
looks brilliant so far, I'm looking forward to the next part
I have a really old hand cranked wet grinder that is absolutely joyous to use...if I get some rests or jigs made for it it will be even better (looking for ideas) ...A large part of the reason I bought it was because of the price of motor driven ones but honestly I wouldnt go back to hi speed motor grinding ..I like the control too much
Wait! You started cutting that plastic without facing off first!
YOU HAVE BROKEN OUR TRADITIONS!
I like the idea of bulletproof instruments.
Weld or bolt an "L" shaped bracket to the plate your motor is bolted to for end support of your worm gear.
@3:25 that drill wobbles SO MUCH... :o
Very nice indeed. Thanks.
I really love your videos. Always an interesting build, wether it's machining or woodworking.
I've got a WEN grinder like that, and it definitely was a good thing to make.
For a stropping wheel I'd use 5-7 micron diamond powder mixed with a tiny bit of glycerin, on a plywood wheel covered in leather. For the water container, I'd make it easily removable, ideally a slide in part. I broke mine, so I currently use an aluminum baking pan lol
It amazes me how good the Japanese hand planes are, cut waffer thing and the guys a l ways Shapen by hand
So far so good, don't think you'll need a second mount on the worm gear, but you could fit one via an angle into the drive from the top if you do decide to add it later. Part 2 will maybe be all you need to be able to sharpen your tools, this will be very versatile for sure.
Thanks 👍💪✌
If you plan to stick with plastic bushing, Igus has a great plastic plain bearing selection guide which may be a better fit in case the bearings need to be replaced in the future. I am surprised you did not pick bronze for the worm gear and bushings with possibly a greasing system. I like the simplicity of this build to quickly produce a functioning machine.
Great job mate
Can always use spring to pull on motor, or other way on top. it would provide pressure, yet it can still slip back if wheel is stalled.
Rather than lube, i use and air blast on plastic. Gets all the little bits away where they won't melt back into the work!
Most of the time when deburring plastics, I just scrape them with a razor blade
The worm drive is a much better design that the one you showed from Machinery House.. that just uses a friction drive on the inside of the honing wheel, which makes it almost impossible to get the wheels to turn concentric.
Thanks alot to u and your work you've helped me alot with school
Great build! I've been thinking about replicating the Tormek in some way too using my drill press. Definitely following this build!
I'd keep an eye on that plastic gear staying attached, as Delrin/POM/Acetal don't chemically bond, which is how that epoxy is supposed to work. I've tried and failed many a time to glue that stuff until my grandfather told me this. Some sort of mechanical thing like pins, a keyed thing, or good old press fit would be your best bet. Maybe a good excuse to cast a chunk of brass or aluminum bronze and remake the thing lol
May I advise you to add some grooves on the bushings and fill them with special grease for plastic and metal contact.
thank you! i really enjoy the videos! Do you ever finf use of annular cutters for some of those larger holes?
Motor-mount plate have enough size/material to fit a bearing, which would drastically reduce the side-load on the motor.
And given the direction of the load you really only need support on one side of the other end of the worm so a half-circle bushing would work and fit given that you can turn away some of the worm that isn't needed/used on that end.
looking good and simpel, me like !
cheers ben.
Funny you should upload this now, I'm a bit further ahead in the process of making a whetstone sharpener myself. ...Using a dolly waiter high-duty 2hp motor with a 100:1 reduction that I had available, mine's not too dissimilar to yours just a little larger scale, though I also have a pulley off the main shaft to run a belt sander.
Awesome work man! You might not be a woodworker by trade.. looks damn good to me.
I'm not sure how to comment anymore without being offensive these days. I like to use the heavier oils for steel.. anything with sulfur in it, and the thin stuff for Aluminum, but that's me.
What threads does bench grinder uses
Most metric ones with a 1/2” shaft use m12 LH and RH
Just a bit of design constructive criticism. Depending on threaded fasteners for a repeatable or even square assembly isn't recommended. Much better would have been end milling shallow slots for the vertical sides to locate in. That way there's a mechanical alignment method and the bolts then just hold everything together. Mechanically that also makes a stronger and more rigid assembly. Cutting something like splines, and even inaccurate ones on the shaft that was left a little over size and then press fitting your worm gear hub over those would have allowed the metal to then act like an automatic broach. You'd then have a positive drive method between the driven worm wheel and the shaft. With plastics you can get away with quite a bit.
Apparently, acetal doesn't make chips. It makes chip.
Mate that's amazing. I bought one of the 200 versions and it was not great. The stone would not run true. If you want the jigs let me know
Simply buy a diamond stone resurfacer to fix your stones not running true. They are very cheap and invaluable for fixing the main grinder stones too.
I appreciate the advice. But i did and it did not work. Almost like there was a bent shaft. I got myself a Tormak and had no issues. I probably just got a damaged one
@@Gravattack - if you true the outside surface of the wheel, it is irrelevant whether the shaft is bent or not (make sense?).
I also true the sides of my wheels, as that reduces wobble.
One important thing is the balance of the wheels. Cheap ones are notorious for having different density (of grit) and that affects the balance. If the machine isn't bolted down, it can literally shake the tool rests and whatever you are trying to grind. I'd say that was the a actual problem you were experiencing. Cheers 🍺
@@johncoops6897 Mate that machine is long gone, I tried everything. It took loads off the stone, but if you changed the stone then it was out again. almost like a camshaft lobe. it was not edge to edge, it was like it was an oval. It took loads off the wheel trying to true it. I felt it might have been dropped and bent the shaft. The Tormek has never given me any grief
Time to watch Artisan cut a massive chunk of steel with a hack saw.😅
I would highly recommend eye protection when welding
Good Stuff
is there any reason why the shaft is in the center?
there would most definitely be more place for the screw if the shaft with the gear was off center
For looks. Thats about it. Looked weird as hell in the cad when I made it offset
How long did that plastic gear last? Two wheels is a lot of inertia to stop with gears that can't be back driven.
They seem to last on the commercial grinders so I will assume the same for here
The design I've seen appears to have the motor shaft drive the outside diameter of a large wheel on the buffing wheel side. I couldn't find a design with worm gears driving the shaft directly.
Regardless, it'll be interesting to see how the gears treat you. Thanks for replying
kin awesome, again
I now have pic of your shop.
I have never managed to glue or paint acetal copolymer with any type of glue, i hope your glue is luckier than mine😊
Wow, thank goodness you didn't make it identical to your off hand (bench) grinder. All the bench grinders here in the "states" seem to use 1/2 BSW thread
Which kind of wheel you're planning to use with the grinder ?
I took the plunge & bought a Tormek DF-200 Diamond Fine Wheel (other grades available) not cheap , but they will never change size,need dressing or hollow, dish or groove, after a bad mishap with grit stones,left them damp in workshop, had power cut & temperature dropped to minus whaterever & the stones cracked.
Im using a silicone carbide wheel. Its good enough to get the blade sharp enough to be able to cut hair easily
I hope you're planning on putting covers on that so you dont get water/grinding dust in the motor or gears. Could probably just caulk some sheet metal or plastic on it and call it a day if you wanted.
Should be evident from The thumbnail. Lots of stuff here that still that needs to be completed. Cheers
@@artisanmakes that would have required me to pay attention, which clearly isn't in the cards for a Saturday morning.
what's the project for? to build a slow RPM grinder?
It's a whetstone grinder for sharpening tools.
@@WaddedBliss well, i know little of machines, a whetstone grinder needs slow RPM?
@@donny533 Apparently so. 100 rpm or thereabouts.
There are two benefits of a lower RPM. The first is less heat which is critical for preserving the temper/heat treatment. The second is precision/control. You generally don't need to remove much material for sharpening tools. No need to dispatch a spider with a grenade.
May I ask something very stupid? I have hard times taping holes for screws. I think it’s because the holes are too tight and the taper gets stuck. Is there specific rule like for example : drill 5mm and taper 6 mm? Cheers.
Yes, search for " drill tap chart "
@@IKEDA7K thanks a lot. Helps a lot. Cheers
For metric it's really easy, just subtract the pitch from the major diameter - examples: M6x1.0 is 5mm, M8x1.25 is 6.75mm. For imperial you need a thread chart and very likely a set of numbered and/or lettered drill bits.
@@robertwoodcock5317 thanks, indeed makes a lot of sense this way.
Wait to finish before posting comment or Preemptively strike before others post?
Me: 🤩 I’m sure it’s a great video!
On a more serious note, 4:53 could someone tell me what the metal rod placed between the plates and the vice jaw helps with while drilling.
Is it to adjust the contact point with the vice jaws to automatically become the center when your work piece is close but not quite parallel with the jaws?
@@TradeWorks_Construction
I want to say it allows the two plates to center themselves since they aren’t perfectly square (imperfections in factory finish, etc). He doesn’t have them welded together, so it may also help to even them out. That’s my best guess.
@@TradeWorks_Construction Im clamping on hot rolled steel and they weren't the same width. The steel wire squashes slightly as a close the vise and helps clamp both of them equally
I have a 1934 SOUTH BEND HEAVY 10 That I thought was kinda loud when I cut gears 😂 but is it me or is that lathe low on oil? It seems extremely loud. Maybe I had the volume too high….😂
He didn't (properly) clean out the grit and grinding dust from inside the gearbox when he bought it. It's literally chewing itself to pieces, every day he keeps using it. 😢
Hi Artisan Makes!
I am now on the spot where I have to buy a bench mill for my few works at home. Mainly machining small parts of 2stroke engines. This means my work is going to be drilling and milling 90% aluminium, 8% mild steel and 2% stainless steel.
The Sieg X2.7L Is now up to 1490 euros or 2475 AUD right now and I'm prone to buy that. Would you still buy It at this price? Please let me know, I could use your help. Thank you!
Hello friend , i can,t see part 2 , can you send me if you please?
There are very inexpensive and good quality 8" diamond disks that should fit your shaft. you can get grits from 240 all the way up to 1200 or higher. They're wonderful for sharpening carbide or very hard steel. The disks are about 2mm thick, and have grit on 1 side, but you can stick PSA sanding disks on the reverse. They should last forever if ran slowly in water.
I would not expect epoxy to stay bonded to acetal. You could prevent any slippage by machining splines into the acetal gear. They don't need to be properly shaped per standards and don't need to be precision spaced. They just need to provide spaces for the epoxy to fill and lock into place. You could make the splines in the lathe by just hand-wheeling the carriage back and forth.
The design is not very good - it puts a large axial thrust on the motor bearings, which are not designed to take it. The worm should be supported by bearings at both ends, and coupled to the motor by a splined or square drive.
Yeah I might put a pin in it through the shaft
Looks like the first test was approximately 72 rpm.
The common accepted practice in the craft is to grind the primary bevel and hone a secondary bevel for hand tools. You do need a bit better hone stone though. Don't judge the method by what you have. I'm a big proponent of using a honing guide too. The consistency of the results cannot be matched. Sharpening is a contentious topic though. There's a lot of BS out there. I guess in the end everyone has to find their own way.
I didn’t think that was the case specifically for high angle blade planes. Yes for the low angle block planes but not for the high.
@@artisanmakes A low angle plane the iron is bevel up and a high angle is bevel down. But you sharpen them both the same. You get them sharp. Sharp is sharp. Quite frankly there's really only one angle you should be sharpening all woodworking tools to. That's 30°. That's optimal. I know it sounds arbitrary but it is based on a lot of experience. A lot of people have woodworked. That value has been arrived at collectively. It's just what it is. But in some limited situations you may want an angle a bit off of that. Say if you're paring really soft wood. Then go a little shallower. But for general bench work 30° is the magic number.
I don't understand why you'd make that gear out of plastic.
Acetal and other engineering plastics are perfectly suitable for making gears
it is a good design but there is a reason why bench grinders have large motors and that is torque+speed+longevity that small motor will burn out really quick
I disagree. It’s not even in this video but when we test it under full it’s going to be pulling 3-4 amps. I’ve used these motors in so many projects over the past 10 or so years and it takes a lot more that to kill one of these, and from my experience they are pretty resilient motors.
And for what it’s worth this is not a unique design, I’ve seen these grinders with worm reductions with small low voltage motors. Cheers
@@artisanmakesi am not talking about the worm reduction gear or any thing like that but just the motor
the motor i doubt was designed to run at full speed for long periods of time the way a bench grinder motor is
@@artisanmakes I doubt the worm gear will work in your design.
It's good for generating torque, but what happens when you turn off your grinder? A bench grinder is basically a flywheel. Your worm gear wont be back drivable. Where does all the energy go?
Ill have a quick look again at the other example I found of this and see if they have anything to account for that
👍👍
The glue on the plastic is not going to last a long time. Perhaps using a broach to make keyway would have been better?
eventually put a pin in it but he glue held up well
0:00 that's not a hacksaw...
That plastic gear is going get shredded.
Without the ability to back feed, there is going to be quite a bit of inertia applied suddenly to the teeth when the motor stops and the two wheels keep trying to spin (even at low speed).
It doesn’t seem to be different to the gearbox inside commercial whetstone grinders that I’ve seen pulled apart
gr8
definitely had enough space ot fit a support
For the algorithm.
It's well established at this point that you don't have room for a full size band saw, but what about a portable band saw? You can also make / buy mounts for them to essentially turn them in to bench mounted vertical band saws.
I think you made a mistake. You ground down the 17.49 and got 17.9? No it’s probably 16.9, right?
huh.. many use acetal bushings, cos many are just cheap crap, with the main objective to be cheap in production.
ball bearings or bronse bushings are much, much better.
acetal will ware qickly, and you do not wan't the shaft that will wander around (been there, done that)
sealed bearings will not last long also. it's not the water that will done the damage. it's water mixed with grinding dust.
some kind of "semy labirinth", or similar not contact seal is required (few nice sugesstions in the comments).
induction motor is actualy very safe near the watter, cos it's sealed. unlike universal motors that have open construction
to remove the scale... dip the parts overnight in citric acid solution. if its not gone in the morning, add more citric acid (can do the same with any mild acid, but citric does not have an odor of vinegar, or myriatic, and it's cheap and available at any grocery)
I have done two "reconstructions" of low speed grinder, leaving the motor and gear train from realy cheap, flea market bargains (about 20-30 EUR, probably just material for the frame and any kind of motor will cost more).
new shafts, bearings, seals, plates that hold the stone (very important part, espetialy one that is near the bearing), jigs...
have few more ideas how to improve them but... it will wait.. working just fine in this configuration.
any way.. nice project
ps
sory for many typos.. broke left wrist two days ago, so typing with one hand after 40 years of "blind typing" is horrible expirience
Lol I have the exact same stone but in eu it was like 3 euro ..... but yeah pretty shit stone and too coarse for sharpening knifes
tap tap tap tap tap. hahahahaha
Pretty much never buy one of the "professional" ones. They are such scams. There's absolutely nothing special about them. Either do as in the video, or just get the classic setup with the belt reduction. The most money one should put into (something like this) is in the stone. Those are what matters the most.
True, although some of the tool sharpening retrofit kits for regular grinders can be pretty good. In all cases, user error and not truing, aligning can make the most expensive machine useless.
Sheppach tools are crap. Don't give them as reference 😂 Tormek is the proper price comparison.
Im not really in the know for these tools. I saw one on display at the tooling supplier, looked okay there. So that's my only reference.
People need to learn the difference between a screw an a bolt
Where did he use the wrong term?
A machine screw is a valid term for a bolt
Technically, a screw is a fully threaded fastener and a bolt has an unthreaded portion.
unless I’m describing something is a technical document, I generally don’t get too uptight about if I saw screw or bolt. Especially if I’m saying “screwed together” or “bolted in place”. Try doing voice overs, you’ll slip up in some minor details. Cheers
There's no universally agreed apon difference. Some say that a bolt has an unthreaded portion, others that a bolt is a screw that is held in place by a nut, others still that a bolt is externally driven (like an external hex head). But historically a bolt is a smooth sliding shaft. Applying the word bolt to a type of screw is unnecessary and just confuses matters. Especially as the first and third definitions have exceptions, and the second is just dumb because any threaded thing can be held in place with a nut, even a wood screw. A bolt is a rod, normally a metal cylinder, that slides into place to lock a moving part, usually a door or window.