"Stock Refinishing Part 1- Removing the old finish"
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 лют 2009
- AMAZON Store: amzn.to/2H7Lq6Y
PATREON: / iv8888
JOIN USCCA LEGAL SELF DEFENSE NETWORK: usccapartners.com/IV8888
CHECK OUT OUR MUSIC CHANNEL: / guitarsenal
This section covers what you need to do to clean the stock of your rifle for refinishing. Be sure to watch part 2 and please subscribe.
DISCLAIMER: Our videos are strictly for documentary, educational, and entertainment purposes only. All shooting is performed on state-approved firing ranges under the supervision of trained professionals. Imitation or the use of any acts depicted in these videos is solely AT YOUR OWN RISK. All work on firearms should be carried out by a licensed individual and all state and federal rules apply to such. We (including UA-cam) will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or damage to your firearms resulting from attempting anything shown in any of our videos. We do not endorse any specific product and this video is not an attempt to sell you a good or service. We are not a gun store and DO NOT sell or deal in firearms. Such a practice is heavily regulated and subject to applicable laws. We DO NOT sell parts, magazines, or firearms. We are not instructing our viewers on how to modify firearms, accessories or otherwise to change their basic legal function. These videos are free to watch and if anyone attempts to charge for this video notify us immediately. By viewing or flagging this video you are acknowledging the above.
Fair Use: In the rare instance we include someone else’s footage it is covered in Fair Use for Documentary and Educational purposes with the intention of driving commentary and allowing freedom of speech. - Навчання та стиль
if you have cosmoline in the stock leave, it in the sun on a hot day and wipe the oil that bleeds from the wood.
a heat gun from a distance will make the cosmoline bleed out as well.
then put rubbing alcohol on a terrycloth or microfiber towel and rub the stock down between heat gun treatments, the oil will get sucked up rapidly by the towel.
You can just use a light coat of Krud Kutter and a soft bristled brush, say an old toothbrush, to clean the stock of any grease or oil that has accumulated over time.
The heat from the water/steam is what penetrates the wood to loosen the fibers, the Krud Kutter helps to break the finish/ grease/ oils down, and the baking soda helps bring the contaminants to the surface for easier removal. Hope this has helped ;)
"Your gonna need gloves, 'cause it's gonna get messy. Espacially if your working with a stripper"
Totally misunderstood that at first!
I remember buying an m91/30 in 8th grade. I watched this so many times. Must have been 7 years ago
hi fellas i just wanted to say thanks for this series of videos ive actually watched it three times because i have an old over and under 12 gauge and ive wanted to bring the stock back to life and the way you have went threw every step was really helpful cant wait to start mine now. cheers and a big thanks all the way from Ireland just finish watching gun gripe i cant wait until the next video and get to the end of this series there a great help keep up the good work.
james.
You mentioned cosmoline and using this method. For cosmoline the best method I have seen is the oven (or other dry heat source...like the sun if you live in Arizona). I've done three Mosin's that way and all three finished great. No sanding, chemicals, or abrasives. Just heat and wipe, heat and wipe, until there is no more cosmoline leaking out. Thanks for the video. The iron trick is something I am going to try on an old shotgun.
2 seconds into a gun video and I'm like, "KITTEEEEEEEEEE."
I have restored a WW2 Mauser Rifle with Tung oil my grandpa brought home as a souvenir from the war he took from the dead nazi it saved his life because his Thompson keep jamming during the battle. Tung oil work best than linseed oil.
The crud cutter turns it into a trout looking stock. Great job Meow.
Dude, I just did my Eddystone and the stock came out beautifully. Thanks!!
Excellent video guys! Krud Kutter is one of my favorite products when I clean & restore my military surp guns. I gave us using the toxic stuff years ago. Please be aware that most Russia, Yugo, & Swiss rifles you find packed in cosmoline K-Kutter will remove it just like you show in your video. However, underneath the grease the stocks are usually finished with shellac or varnish. K-Kutter will only remove about 25% of this. Acetone, denatured alcohol, or citrus strip will finish it.
Starting the stock project today. Bluing completed. Saved this for a long time.
What kind of cat is recommended to go along with the mortar tub? Can someone help me, I'm stuck on this part of the process.
Siamese works best, especially when paired with an M114 Mortar.
Just get the milsurp cat even if it doesnt have matching serials. Theres aftermarket too but the ruasians produced enough cats for ww2 that you can essentially buy a crate full of brande new cats, never meowed, for irt cheap.
+Quattro 4 Unfortunately though, no Japanese milsurp cats to go along with an Arisaka. :( R.I.P.
Any pussy WILL work lol
It doesn't matter...pussy is pussy
Great video. This was actually very helpful-thank you sir.
Man look how young you guys sound and look this is a classic!!
Thanks alot. I just bought an Air Arms TX200 Hunter Carbine which had some minor stock damage that was starting to bug me. I had been told how to refinish and recondition stocks but I'm more of a visual person , show me how to do something and I can do it. This series of videos helped no end. All the best from England.
Love you guys, always useful info
I think your cat is pissed for using the morter tub because he wants you to put the kitty litter back into it , lol.... Great job ...
Holy hell this is an old video, but quite helpful for me redoing a marlin stock. I started watching this channel in 2014 when I started getting into guns
im glad u guys did this vid because i want to refinnish my dads US enfield of 1917. But he wont let me sand it because of the markings on the stock and i needed a way to get the finnish off with out damaging the markings and the stock is really nice it should clean up well.
Thank you for this upload. I have 4 rusty guns that's been sitting around since Hurricane Katrina. They're my dad's guns and I want to surprise him when I bring them to New Orleans. Been looking everywhere for some good tips. Thanks again.
How did it go
great video and keep them coming brother I'm doing my m44 today watching this video
I didn’t notice the author till I started watching the video. Lol. Your early years. We were a lot younger back then. Good work guys. That is why y’all have lasted so well.
Thanks. Using Bix Stripper is the easy and straight-forward method, but I've found that using this Krud Kutter and baking soda method makes for a much nicer finish in the end. I've read that using stripper "shocks" the wood in a sense, not a good thing especially when dealing with older stocks. It also leaves a nasty residue that's hard to get off without harsh cleaners before sanding and finishing.
12 years later and this is still my go to video
The cat is critical to the process
Reji Raccoon ;
The cat walking around the tub guarantee's it works.
I like that. Never thought of using Krud Kutter. I was just so used to Bix Stripper. Nice work!
Krud Cutter does work great on grout, since I still had a almost full bottle I cleaned the tile and grout bathroom floor, really cleaned the grout.
I used some of Break Free's Powder Blast cleaner and it removed all of the cosmoline, and the old finish along with it. Nothing but bare wood left. It took a long time, but worked just the same.
i just found this video looking for how to refinish my rifle stock, but the dude who cant not pet the kitty is what kept me watching lol. I knew this was the video for me.
My girlfriend says she agrees with you about "strippers having a negative effect on wood". ha... ha babe..
Awesome girlfriend with a sense of humor :D
Wow, such and oldie, but great video!
if you have oil in your stock, you can remove the oil by putting acetone on it
strippers affect the wood in the wrong way, fucking hilarious
Well, they do. But only the top layer.
He was making a joke, meaning stripper as in a naked dancer and wood as in, well you know.
So was I ...genital herpes
I once have hair piece, wind would blow off head.
Tried KrudKutter ona a really beat up 1897 stock that somebody had gone at with a file and 80 grit. It worked great! thanks for this post.
to evanms1:Take the bare stock, put it in a sealed plastic bag, preferably clear plastic. Place it on the dashboard of your car. Park the car in the sun, hotter the better. Drive the car as usual for a few days. Texas or Arizona sun is the best. Between the sun and the glass glare the stock will sweat out the grunge after a week or so. You can actually see the results.
Y'all have came a long way
I used a clean parkerizing tub with a propane heater, which keeps the water boiling, and some detergent. I stripped the old finish off with a scraper and placed the stock into the boiling water with two cups of powder detergent. The stock floats on top and the portion of the stock in the water has all of the oil pulled out. Let it float for 90 sec., then pull it out and flip it over for another 90 sec. Let it air dry for 10 minutes and begin sanding.It's a more expensive set up, but much faster.
Use easy off oven cleaner it draws of oil and strips off old varnish. Than rinse it in hot water than let dry. repete as needed. Easyer process.
Used some of that citrus based paint stripper to refinish my yugo sks stock, it worked great got a nice cherry gel stain to rub in and then applied some tung oil let fry for three to four days then added extra cherry for a darker stain.
Great Vid as usual.
You helped me refine my stock, you won yourself a subscriber. Now if only I can take my Mosin Nagant with with me to PT and basic.
alright man thanks for the info, i appreciate it. when i get mine i might need some more advise lol. but i appreciate it
I tried the Krud Cutter on my 1943 Mosin-Nagant. Guess my stock may have had a different finish but the K-C did not remove the finish. So I turned to acetone, using less than half a bottle I had the stock down to bare wood in 1/2 hour. Could be mine was fiinish in laquer or shellac, the acetone worked great. Did not have to mess with boiling water, or burning my fingers. Conditioned stock, applied 2 coats of stain, finish with Formby tung oil, and than couple coats of wood wax. Try acetone.
When I de-shellac'd a mosin nagant I used nothing but 0000 steel wool and a toothbrush and a half gallon of denatured alcohol. It was a sticky mess but I had fun.
i used som krud kutter then i found some old paint remover back in the workshop cabinet and omfg it worked a miracle!! now just to add some tung oil finish 5-6 times
Hey Bro, I tried to post a video response of my Yugo SKS 59/66 that I refinished using your vidoes as a guide. Not sure why it not showing up but I'm still new to youtube so maybe I didn't do it right. Anyway I'm really happy with the results and today I started work on my M38 Mosin-Nagant. Just wanted to say thanks for giving me the inspiration to take on this project & keep up the good work.
Yeah. Boiling water will weak those tougher finishes like the mar-shield finishes on marlin stocks, but it still won't cut it. lol. The method in this video though is one similar to what I use and works great when it comes to cleaning the stocks! Y'all make some great vids and everytime I watch one it just reminds me of how I need a better camera. lol
another good way to remove the oil from the stock is to spray it with easy off oven cleaner, leave to soak for a few minutes, give it a scrub with a nail brush and wipe off with a rag. it draws the oil right out from deep in the wood and drys out fast. using rubber gloves is a must! it tends to dry your skin out too! haha
thanks!! i will try the hot water metod....tahnks again!!1
Just use EZ-OFF oven cleaner. spray it on, work it in with a tooth brush, let it set 5-10 mins, rinse in hot water and let it dry, then repeate 3 or 4 times. Very eazy.
If it fits...just put your stock in the dishwasher on high temp wash. and yes add soap! stripped my M44 stock like a champ!
I use orengeoxie from Daller tree store. It will take it all hand greas off. No traditional wood working. From stock video's.
good video guys
Watching this in 2018. You guys sound so different these days.
@ tlareng
If you literally boil the stock, it can cause the wood to swell excessively and parts may not fit properly without a lot of sanding and refitting. A hot water treatment as shown won't affect the wood enough to matter. It just helps pull the stain/ grease/ oil out and also dents and some scratches. Careful though, it can also pull out serial numbers and any cartouches that you may want to keep intact.
Throwback!
I knew the voice from somewhere then realized it was 8888 😂
damn this is an advanced way to finish it lol i never thought of a iron all i did was clean it used some steel wool threw some stain on it and then sealed it. lets pretty good.
@skiley100
Also, the only undesireable experience I have with removers is the smell which is easily counteracted with a good respirator. Krud Kutter does not contain lye, a product harmful to wood, and is why I chose to recommend it's use here. Older firearms were normally packed in cosmoline which needs a good degreasing agent to get it out of the wood, hence biodegradable Krud Kutter.
actually I tried some mineral spirits and a soft and ruff bristled brush, I didn't want to risk leaving that chemical on for too long so about 2-3 minutes soaked down from a spray bottle, and then the brush, after about the 3-4 time around I started to make progress and cut through all those layers of Cosmo and old finish it was tuff, but at the same time you got to be gentle. I used boiling water in between the spraying to wipe off the chemical, and at the end I rinsed off the entire stock.
Oh, No! I've even heard that crud cutter is too harsh. I'm trying to study how to clean my 03 stock -- that's why I'm watching.
In the paint dpt at HD we use krud cutter as our main cleaner
Mmmmhhh I love watching old Eric vids
I have a very old 1903 springfield. the stock is very oily and almost black in places the oil has almost soften the wood in places. Do you think this would help?
Yay cat! must be a great vid!
to get the tiger strips, proffional gun finisher scorch the tiger stripes on using a bunsen burner, but it does require great skill.
alright will do man
The opening music reminds me of the Barney Miller theme song.Great vid
Now I just got to let it dry, I live in South Florida so 1 good day of hot sun in the low, mid 90's should be good enough. Dry it for about 36 hours I suppose. Anyways I subscribed to your channel so I can see all your Mosin nagant videos, they are all very informative. Hopefully in the future fans can just send in their parts for you to mod/fix/finish them, as a business. lol perhaps its possible.
The cat kind of "told you" to shut up and get to work. HAHA. Nice annatation! Ypur cat is probably gun expert himself, possibly even a reincarnation of John C. Garand or something! Good channel, keep it up!
I watched this series of videos and followed the instructions to a tee as best I could. One word of caution; at one point the question is asked if this method could be used to simply clean the stock as opposed to stripping it. The answer was this could be used to simply clean and remove cosmoline etc.... I will say that if you use Krud Kutter it WILL strip the stock. No problems for me and it worked out great but just some fyi.
David Belew ffggury gygy UK? n. uvyvgnkkuggbg.ggyhgujrhiknuooihucugyyuyyhdoohh6
the stripes you see are actually wood grain. Its called tiger stripping. Like I said it is the wood grain itself so you cant do that by staining.
that cat is thinking about taking a dump in the tub :-D
@OntarioPrepper stiff bristled usually means a stiff bristled plastic brush.
Sounds decent.
yeah, for practice, everyone should dry fire krud kutter until I really need it.
Watching in 2017 👍🏻
getting that trigger finger nice and strong with the krud kutter lol
I can’t believe I found this video of you guys. Anyway is there a better info than this out now
@Iraqveteran8888 They way I did mine was simply remove the old nasty finish with stripper, sanded a little bit with high grain paper and #0000 steel wool to get it extra smooth. Applied 3 coats of Minwax Golden Pecan stain, then sealed it with Woodoc (not available in USA) sealant. All this took about 2 1/2 days with each coat having 6 hours to dry and cure.
Now stock was only cheap pine, but I think the same results could be achieved with any old military walnut.
Won't the boiling water have a chance of warping the entire thing?
Tribal Tec on the intro?Great how to video!
paul bradley best oil for refinance is hinges m1garand stock
I just used some fine grain sandpaper, conditioner, stain, rub on poly (4 coats), and boom.
Would this be a good method, for refinishing a Mosin? Would it be effective on removing the shellac?
Krud Kutter is great stuff, better than 409 and only $13 a gallon at Home Depot.
@MacTeutates I was thinking the same thing. I have a huge bottle of that stuff already, so that'll end up saving me money when I refinish my stock. Have you tried the Simple Green on your stock? If so, how did it come out?
I just watched this series about stripping, did you find any damages from using the water
also, i have been looking for gun cleaning kits for the 91/30 and i dont know what brushes and brush size to get. i have looked at hoppes 9 kits and all i seen was bronze brushes and i didnt know if it would be good to use on the mosin.
I have an old Crosman airgun from the 1960's, it has a kind of varnish finish on it, would this method work to take that off, or should I use stripper for the varnish? thank you great video
Just subbed ya Mig!
@KiwiTomCrawford one thing you could do is strip the finishput a very small amount of apoxy in the scratch then sand over it and fill the scratch in with the saw dust.you my have to do this a few times but it will get the jod done if you do it right.
epic refinishing time...
KRUD CUTTER.
MORE KRUD CUTTER.
KRUD CUTTER ON TOP OF THAT KRUD CUTTER.
yes only to use regular stripper ,couple of time sand it ,put the base and the finish ,do you think it will be the same results? or it is better the hot water method...
if it's boiling water than you don't need the propane burner to heat it up ;)
@skiley100
These videos are geared more towards folks who are not professional furniture restorers. This method uses common household items to clean and degrease older surplus stocks, simple preparations for sanding, and a common method of sanding and finishing with stain and readily available and easy to use oil. I have no aversion to using chemical strippers, I have a couple gallons of Bix Original Varnish & Stain Remover in my shop, along with various dyes and finishes not mentioned here.
Do you ever have a problem with parts fitting the stock after its been around alot of water?
I would think the wood would warp or move with the high humidity?
Krud Cutter and this method is only good for stocks with some type of oil finish or thin coat of shellack like on our mosins. Any stock with a heavy coat of polyurethane or epoxy is most certainly going to require a chemical stripper to get it completely off. Great vid though. Always enjoy the vids man...
is it ok if I sanded some of the stain off of the stock and steamed the rest out after because i was mislead and sanded before i did anything
after sanding the stock of my mosin I can still see dark blotches in the wood grain in the area of the forward handgrip and on the stock behind the tang is this body oils that have permated the wood as they are in the area that the rifle is gripped...if so what do I do ? keep sanding or stain over BTW great & very proffesssional videos you guys do ,thx and congrats.