Someone has to know what we need to do from here… please drop a comment! Also, my buddy Derek has his own channel, check it out and subscribe: youtube.com/@derekfelber743
the spark plugs and coils are working so im assuming its a main fuse that controls the fuel pump and injectors is blown or not making full connection double check to make sure its in. check power to injectors then rail pessure while cranking that should answer your problem. had it happen to a 335 i had turns over wont start injectors and fuel pump wont kick on sounds fuse related.
I would check the EKPM module. They can tend to go bad over time. Seems like the fuel pump is working. If you have ISTA installed on your computer I would pull the codes on it. Save those codes, clear em, and check them again. You might be able to run test procedures on those codes using ISTA.
You need to code all the replacement modules to the car. A good scanner can test each individual one. My favorite for BMW is the Launch Creader Elite BMW. It works amazingly.
Jake, the used DME, cluster and CAS module all need to be flashed with the vehicles ISN. Not just coded, programmed. You’d need something higher end like an autel IM608 for those functions. then you’ll need factory BMW programs like winKFP, and ISTA-P for the regular programming. Then you can code with something like e-sys. Without this, the car will never fire.
I've never seen such a strategy to start up an old car, where you pour gas in the intake/charge pipe 🤣 Take this W, Jake. You guys both deserve it after bringing this car to life, even for a few seconds. Hope you guys figure it soon, and start having some real fun with the build.
If the ecu is from a different car, then the vin doesn't match across all the modules. This in turn won't allow the car to start itself. Had the same problem on my w204 c300 when I replaced my ecu. Cranked but wouldn't start.
I got everything from the same donor car though. The DME, CAS module, BCM module and key. From what I've read, as long as you get all of these things from the same car, it should start and run. It would require some coding to get things like the DSC working properly, but it should still start and run. Again, this is just from the reading I did online. If I got just a DME, and used the CAS and key from the original car, it would not work. That's why I got the whole set. I coded the rest of the modules that were already in the car to have the same VIN as the new DME, still nothing 🤔
@@jake_spenceit doesn’t matter. Specific parts need to be programmed ti the ecu such as injectors and a few other things. Otherwise it just won’t start
@Jake Spence I believe it should work once you do a rolling code reset for all the main modules. The cas (ews) module changes the code every startup, and it must match across the other modules in the car. If you resync the rolling code, it should work. I'm not sure what software you would need for that since I only own 90s bmws where I can use INPA and ncs for everything. But best of luck and hopefully you figure it out for cheap!!
@Jake Spence did you consider robbing all the modules off your other 1 to swap into this one to see if it would fire? In my eyes that would decide if more needs to be coded on this car other than the DME/CAS.
You most likely need to do a “DME and CAS align” with a good diagnostic scanner. Anytime these year of BMWs have the battery disconnected they tend to need it. Good luck
Keep on, Jake! Just mention: JBE L1 module, which you set up, has smallest set of functions, so some of car's body electronics could be not working (depends on options).
also depends on the chassis that it came out of. Id default code the CAS, DME, EKP, KOMBI, to whatever options the car came with. If they got the modules out of anything else than an e82 it wont work properly.
Loose ground cable, jammed gas pump that had water. Make sure to use a flash file to program the fuel system/ pump system. If that doesn’t fix it, try to see if ecu has for some reason shut off the power to the fuel pump, if it was fine you’d hear it prime when unlocking/ opening the car. The fuel pump might not be the issue thought because u still need to see the injectors fire.
Hey Jake. Last year my LPFP module was bad and I bought a better one which was improved by BMW. I knew this module would not respond to the DME because the module was not "told" the actual Vehicle order from the CAS. I tried to start the car, and it didn't start because the fuel pump didn't turn on. With NCS expert I took the CAS vehicle order and coded that to the "new" fuel module. And the car started right up. The question now, is probably; How many and which modules have to "know" the "new" Vehicle order ,to get this thing started? I don't know..... Someone who knows this probable, or at least can show you the way, is Musa from "Vehicular DIY'. He is well known in the n54 community and did a lot of coding to his e90 335i in the past. So give it a shot. Good luck, Dutch regards, Nico.
as someone with alot of BMW DME (diesel) and some coding expertiese, i would advice to check that the CAS or DME does not give any EWS tampering codes. if this is the case, try to resynch the rolling code, if there are no codes for EWS tampering, i would suggest coding the other modules to match the current DME/CAS vin. atleast EKPM,FRM, also ISTA-D would give alot of insight on this. Should be able to check with other diagnostic softwares too that the cas module indeed recognices the key, and gives the DME a start permission. usually when there is no start permission, the injectors will not fire, and fuel pump does not run. which seems like the case here. this can be caused buy EWS tampering, along with few other DME codes, or a misaligned CAS-DME sync (rolling start code, or ISN)
the First very good coment, it could be a EWS/Immobilizer fault. Check for the immobilizer module and if the key is given an ok there. Maybe the modules are not from one running car too, so the seller may lied. Check with bmw software for fault codes in ECU and EWS.
It ran so your modules are working. Your ignition is working. I would say it's fuel. Drain the tank, then add a bit of fresh fuel, pump that out from the connection at the hpfp so the lines are clear. Then run the fuel bleed program in ista or that app you have if it's got it - pretty sure it just runs the lpfp for 5 mins. Then crank it with all the injectors cracked off so you get all the air out as close to the injectors as possible. Then tighten them all and try again. I had to do this twice after my turbo install where I had drained the fuel system.
Just stumbled across this channel looks a good build, im sure someone will manage to point you in the right direction and like all good mechanics your willing to listen to others who may have had this issue to help you get it running . New subscriber now looking forward to see how this turns out.
Take off the EKP Module and clean the ground. The same thing was happening to me. I would also put power to the fuel pump and send it back and forth to clear anything up in the pump system that's what worked for me
You can scan the different modules with pro tool, check for other module codes. Also you can manually force on the fuel pump in a 2 min prime mode on pro tool.
love the car i just bought a 2012 128i with 50k miles and one owner. loving all the content you post been binge watching all the old videos glad to join the family
Is the new DME coded to the car being a pull a part grab? Also check if the fuel pressure EKP module (pink and black box at end of video) is getting hot while cranking.
It’s not coding. Its bigger than that. The new DME, cluster, CAS, and transmission all need to have the ISN number written to them. Then they need to be programmed to the car. Then lastly, they are coded. Without this, the car will not run the injectors or the fuel pump.
I’m glad you got the 135 to turn over. I was always told to stay away from flood vehicles especially if it was salt water. Anyway I’m excited for you man, I hope it all works out. 😊
You need to code the key the same thing in Honda bro get the key coded to your specific car and it’ll work if you could use any fob on any bmw then anyone could take your bmw
Bro, can’t wait to see this thing run! I was hoping you opened up the fuel tank. There could be water in there and could be causing the car not to fire.
Not entirely related to the issue in the current video, but you mentioned that the mileage on the car is taken from 3 different locations on the car, which I think is correct. But I also think that if a new gauge cluster is installed (with a higher mileage than that of the rest), then the car will now adopt that higher mileage. So I don't believe the car will ever read 10k miles again...without a tamper dot.
2 suggestions. 1)Just went through the same issue in my 535 n54, I had to send out my dme, key, and cas module to get coded to correct vin. It kept injectors and hpfp from working. 2) I had a n52 325 that would crank no start. Under fuse box there's a green 40 amp fuse. It blows when water pump goes out or on its way out. It cuts fuel or spark I don't remember. It’s a fail safe so car doesn’t over heat since no temp gauge. It will make you crank to no end.
This is a cool project! Definitely a security thing . The junk yard cas and dme probably need to be all coded to the car And match I believe the ews is good or it wouldn’t crank at all seems like key and ews are synced . Good luck
High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) or Fuel Pump Driver Module. I would think the fact it was in a flood I would think it could definitely be the FPDM. But good luck. I hope it starts running 🤞p.s. just thinking about it, also check the Fuel pump relay.
Try the EKP Module from the good car, check the corresponding fuel pump fuse. Try starting it immediately at the moment after initializing a diagnostic tool, that worked for me…when the transmission was not plugged in. Keep it up!
Had a similar issue with my e90. Open the fuel rail and check that fluid is coming out when cranking. Mine was a fuel sending unit going bad. Not the fuel pump. Highly recommend flushing the fuel system and putting fresh e91+ in it.
You inspired me to pull the trigger and get a 135i. Got it back in December, learning as I go, having fun with it tho haha. I'm swapping my clutch and flywheel and the stuff you do makes what I'm trying to do look simple lol
Check the crank sensor that is the the right side of the throttle body and also double check that key cas and dme are all communicating right. Had the same issue where a communication issue with the three caused crank but no start and also the sensor was a issue also for another time.
Cool seeing that there’s always a work around to check if something works. Was unaware there are some for euro brands also. I stick to jdm, but have always had a dark spot in my heart for euros❤
I swap dme cas keys in a bunch of cars they always start. I would check fuel pressure on the high side. Possible a bad hpfp or unplugged maybe. Also I would double check your dme wiring. The sub connectors inside the large connector not being in the right orientation has caused the wiper blades to act like that in my experience. I would also pull a spark plug and check for spark. If you do not have the fuses/wiring In the dme hook up correctly you will not get spark
You have to program the ECU, CAS and dash to the existing VIN on the car. I have a guy here in Toronto that can program these for you… it’s a pain in the ass and requires quite some tech knowledge. This also requires having the old ECU, CAS and dash so you can download the info and program the new ones
You will want to code the EKP module which controls the fuel pump. Since you got the DME, CAS and FRM modules from another vehicle! My EKP module failed and needed to be replaced; had to code in order for the replacement to work.
Check to see if you accident swapped the vanos connectors, Ive some that before and had some issues. Other than that all those new modules need to be coded. I would try to do them one by one down the line, good luck!
Check there is fuel going to the rail. If it is, then it is the injections not firing. You'll need to reprogram the DME, cas and such. Also, the DME, cas, and key fob and reader are all linked together. Didn't see it in the video, but did you change out the port for the key fob?
Jake if it has water damage then i would be cleaning all the earths blocks take the rear seat out there is 1 on each side of the inner wheel arch where the bolster goes rectangle block with brown wires in it there is also 1 near the fuse box also rectangle with brown wires on it and there are 1 behind each headlight on the skirt you also need to check the 2 red power cables that come from the battery to the turminal blocks next to the battery in the boot as they are bolted to the body through black plastic blocks and are prone to get corrosion on them the wipers are going spaz because the can network is not talking correctly on the DME check for corrosion or broken terminals i have just changed a whole wiring harness on a e92 335i m sport there are a lot of earths and am doing a engine swap turbo ford barra and have had to do a can wire loop because i have no factory DMEand my wipers turned on just like yours you neeed to use ista d clear all the faults crank it over it will either start or throw new codes again hope this helps cheers from down under
Couple of things you can try (been in this exact same situation with a Frankenstein rebuilt 335i. It's probably not the DME coding because you already have a matching CAS to go with it but try that first because it's easy. Next thing to do would be check the HPFP and associated fuse. Now the other thing I'd actually check is all of your ground straps and also the FRM because that module can do all sorts of funky stuff...reason being is because whenever your wipers go wild like that it's a sign of a resistance issue...just pull the FRM from the other car and give it a whirl first and if not check the ground straps...I'll bet one close to your HPFP is crusty.
like some one say bellow you need to code all the modules together in case u havent , the new junction box to the dme cas key and frm module all need to be coded together and if its possible with the same vin as the car has it
You need a good diagnosis. Could be that bmw modules are linked to each other to prevent theft? So many different modules it's hard to tell. If you don't hear the fuel pump priming I'd start there.
check the fuel rail see if it squirts gas out if not its prob ur fuel pressure regulator basically uses pressure in gas tank to push it into the system to ur motor
I have had an EWS module failing me in the past so I had to code out my EWS system and that’s exactly what it does. Tells fuel to not get sent to the engine if it thinks that the car is stolen
Check your fuse Box again. The flood damage was repaired in Germany and it was set back. It was running when it was Repossessed.. It's gonna be something very simple. Might be difficult to find though. Maybe injector wires Good luck I'll be watching.
I worked at BMW for a few years between the wipers and the fuel injectors not firing it looks like the FRM is bad. I have seen this happen a couple times while working at BMW
Way to get it to almost to run. Looking forward to the next video. Not sure about the fix. Can't stand chasing down electrical problems on the e90 n54. GL.
water in the fuel system, remove injector rail and completely bleed out system with the rail off and confirm you have spark if not then start chasing modules and wiring
I would of drain the whole fuel that was left first, new fuel filter, & fill it up with new fuel.. not saying this would solve the issue but at least it will help
Motor sounds healthy man! Take this motor and put it into your other 135i instead. Then LS swap this 135i instead! Keep up the uploads bro, we'll beat the algorithm ❤
The wipers tell that there is an issue with communication to the DME. It could be bad or missing fuse or relay in the DME compartment. Make sure there is power to the DME.
Someone has to know what we need to do from here… please drop a comment! Also, my buddy Derek has his own channel, check it out and subscribe: youtube.com/@derekfelber743
Yee yee!! Lol
The electronic fuel pump control module (EKPS) controls the power to your BMW fuel pump.
the spark plugs and coils are working so im assuming its a main fuse that controls the fuel pump and injectors is blown or not making full connection double check to make sure its in. check power to injectors then rail pessure while cranking that should answer your problem. had it happen to a 335 i had turns over wont start injectors and fuel pump wont kick on sounds fuse related.
I bet it's bad gas and may need a fuel filter. Lovin the content , keep it up brotha!
I would check the EKPM module. They can tend to go bad over time. Seems like the fuel pump is working. If you have ISTA installed on your computer I would pull the codes on it. Save those codes, clear em, and check them again. You might be able to run test procedures on those codes using ISTA.
You need to code all the replacement modules to the car. A good scanner can test each individual one. My favorite for BMW is the Launch Creader Elite BMW. It works amazingly.
There is no scan tool below an autel IM508 or 608 that will be able to program an ISN to the used DME. This is beyond coding.
@Bimmer Life not true.
Feel free to elaborate how you are going to program a used DME and bench-write eeproms with your creader, Matt.
Flush the fuel system, it’s probably pumped water at some stage.
Exactly
Id say prolly not
And why do you assume that? The fuel system is sealed. Old fuel, that has turned to turpentine sure, water, not likely
Jake, the used DME, cluster and CAS module all need to be flashed with the vehicles ISN. Not just coded, programmed. You’d need something higher end like an autel IM608 for those functions. then you’ll need factory BMW programs like winKFP, and ISTA-P for the regular programming. Then you can code with something like e-sys.
Without this, the car will never fire.
This, also he thinks that he'll get the actual mileage of the car with a used dme,cas and cluster lmao.
I've never seen such a strategy to start up an old car, where you pour gas in the intake/charge pipe 🤣
Take this W, Jake. You guys both deserve it after bringing this car to life, even for a few seconds. Hope you guys figure it soon, and start having some real fun with the build.
I was fairly confident it had spark, its pretty common on older carbureted vehicles to dump fuel right in the intake so I figured this would work 😂
I’m lucky to have Derek, he knows all sorts of tips and tricks! This has been fun, and only gonna get better 😁
If the ecu is from a different car, then the vin doesn't match across all the modules. This in turn won't allow the car to start itself. Had the same problem on my w204 c300 when I replaced my ecu. Cranked but wouldn't start.
I got everything from the same donor car though. The DME, CAS module, BCM module and key. From what I've read, as long as you get all of these things from the same car, it should start and run. It would require some coding to get things like the DSC working properly, but it should still start and run. Again, this is just from the reading I did online. If I got just a DME, and used the CAS and key from the original car, it would not work. That's why I got the whole set. I coded the rest of the modules that were already in the car to have the same VIN as the new DME, still nothing 🤔
@@jake_spenceit doesn’t matter. Specific parts need to be programmed ti the ecu such as injectors and a few other things. Otherwise it just won’t start
@Jake Spence I believe it should work once you do a rolling code reset for all the main modules. The cas (ews) module changes the code every startup, and it must match across the other modules in the car. If you resync the rolling code, it should work. I'm not sure what software you would need for that since I only own 90s bmws where I can use INPA and ncs for everything. But best of luck and hopefully you figure it out for cheap!!
@Jake Spence did you consider robbing all the modules off your other 1 to swap into this one to see if it would fire? In my eyes that would decide if more needs to be coded on this car other than the DME/CAS.
@@jake_spence was it out of an e82?
You most likely need to do a “DME and CAS align” with a good diagnostic scanner. Anytime these year of BMWs have the battery disconnected they tend to need it.
Good luck
This is not relevant to this BMW chassis.
Banger of a video. Just stumbled across this channel. Insane!
Kai... welcome to the channel! You just won the $50 comment giveaway! What's your email, or DM me on IG @jakespence
@@jake_spence OMG YES @kaimassam
Here before this series blows up 👍
Keep on, Jake! Just mention: JBE L1 module, which you set up, has smallest set of functions, so some of car's body electronics could be not working (depends on options).
also depends on the chassis that it came out of. Id default code the CAS, DME, EKP, KOMBI, to whatever options the car came with. If they got the modules out of anything else than an e82 it wont work properly.
Loose ground cable, jammed gas pump that had water. Make sure to use a flash file to program the fuel system/ pump system. If that doesn’t fix it, try to see if ecu has for some reason shut off the power to the fuel pump, if it was fine you’d hear it prime when unlocking/ opening the car. The fuel pump might not be the issue thought because u still need to see the injectors fire.
By far your funniest video, keep it up, had my fingers crossed it would start.
Hey Jake. Last year my LPFP module was bad and I bought a better one which was improved by BMW. I knew this module would not respond to the DME because the module was not "told" the actual Vehicle order from the CAS. I tried to start the car, and it didn't start because the fuel pump didn't turn on. With NCS expert I took the CAS vehicle order and coded that to the "new" fuel module. And the car started right up. The question now, is probably; How many and which modules have to "know" the "new" Vehicle order ,to get this thing started? I don't know..... Someone who knows this probable, or at least can show you the way, is Musa from "Vehicular DIY'. He is well known in the n54 community and did a lot of coding to his e90 335i in the past. So give it a shot. Good luck, Dutch regards, Nico.
as someone with alot of BMW DME (diesel) and some coding expertiese, i would advice to check that the CAS or DME does not give any EWS tampering codes.
if this is the case, try to resynch the rolling code, if there are no codes for EWS tampering, i would suggest coding the other modules to match the current DME/CAS vin.
atleast EKPM,FRM, also ISTA-D would give alot of insight on this. Should be able to check with other diagnostic softwares too that the cas module indeed recognices the key, and gives the DME a start permission. usually when there is no start permission, the injectors will not fire, and fuel pump does not run. which seems like the case here. this can be caused buy EWS tampering, along with few other DME codes, or a misaligned CAS-DME sync (rolling start code, or ISN)
There are also pretty cheap solutions for disabling the CAS/EWS system completely, if that is the route you'd want to go.
the First very good coment, it could be a EWS/Immobilizer fault. Check for the immobilizer module and if the key is given an ok there. Maybe the modules are not from one running car too, so the seller may lied. Check with bmw software for fault codes in ECU and EWS.
@@Peter_Mueller1975 thanks, i gave more insight and other possibilities too, but seems like my comments were deleted sadly.
I always start with the simplest things first. With it having been flooded, you should check all of your ground points.
It ran so your modules are working. Your ignition is working. I would say it's fuel. Drain the tank, then add a bit of fresh fuel, pump that out from the connection at the hpfp so the lines are clear. Then run the fuel bleed program in ista or that app you have if it's got it - pretty sure it just runs the lpfp for 5 mins. Then crank it with all the injectors cracked off so you get all the air out as close to the injectors as possible. Then tighten them all and try again. I had to do this twice after my turbo install where I had drained the fuel system.
Just stumbled across this channel looks a good build, im sure someone will manage to point you in the right direction and like all good mechanics your willing to listen to others who may have had this issue to help you get it running . New subscriber now looking forward to see how this turns out.
Welcome aboard! We’ve got liftoff, check out the new video. Y’all have been great!
Take off the EKP Module and clean the ground. The same thing was happening to me. I would also put power to the fuel pump and send it back and forth to clear anything up in the pump system that's what worked for me
Literally the first vid I watched on this channel. Excited to see where this goes? Maybe the new ECU/modules you added need to be coded?
Love this style bro! Keep it up!
You can scan the different modules with pro tool, check for other module codes. Also you can manually force on the fuel pump in a 2 min prime mode on pro tool.
Hell yeah, man, glad to see the views and the support! You'll get it going for sure...
love the car i just bought a 2012 128i with 50k miles and one owner. loving all the content you post been binge watching all the old videos glad to join the family
Is the new DME coded to the car being a pull a part grab? Also check if the fuel pressure EKP module (pink and black box at end of video) is getting hot while cranking.
this ^
It’s not coding. Its bigger than that. The new DME, cluster, CAS, and transmission all need to have the ISN number written to them. Then they need to be programmed to the car. Then lastly, they are coded.
Without this, the car will not run the injectors or the fuel pump.
@@XcoolcoolbeansbeansX does the FPCM see and power with key on?
So great hearing but at least fire up! Love the edits of different characters added in for extra emphasis as well!
I’m glad you got the 135 to turn over. I was always told to stay away from flood vehicles especially if it was salt water. Anyway I’m excited for you man, I hope it all works out. 😊
You need to code the key the same thing in Honda bro get the key coded to your specific car and it’ll work if you could use any fob on any bmw then anyone could take your bmw
It’s bmw security feature
You can have mismatched computers I’m telling you program the key to that bmw
Bro, can’t wait to see this thing run! I was hoping you opened up the fuel tank. There could be water in there and could be causing the car not to fire.
Fellow Wisconsinite youtubers here! Love the content man keep it up!
Not entirely related to the issue in the current video, but you mentioned that the mileage on the car is taken from 3 different locations on the car, which I think is correct. But I also think that if a new gauge cluster is installed (with a higher mileage than that of the rest), then the car will now adopt that higher mileage. So I don't believe the car will ever read 10k miles again...without a tamper dot.
2 suggestions.
1)Just went through the same issue in my 535 n54, I had to send out my dme, key, and cas module to get coded to correct vin. It kept injectors and hpfp from
working.
2) I had a n52 325 that would crank no start.
Under fuse box there's a green 40 amp fuse.
It blows when water pump goes out or on its way out. It cuts fuel or spark I don't remember. It’s a fail safe so car doesn’t over heat since no temp gauge. It will make you crank to no end.
This is a cool project! Definitely a security thing . The junk yard cas and dme probably need to be all coded to the car And match I believe the ews is good or it wouldn’t crank at all seems like key and ews are synced . Good luck
Just a thought is the factory stereo part of the security system, i had this issue on a truck which had an after market cd player installed.
High-Pressure Fuel
Pump (HPFP) or Fuel
Pump Driver
Module. I would think the fact it was in a flood I would think it could definitely be the FPDM. But good luck. I hope it starts running 🤞p.s. just thinking about it, also check the Fuel pump relay.
If starter fluid starts the car , check if the injectors make noise when it cranks , maybe test for fuel pressure?
Try the EKP Module from the good car, check the corresponding fuel pump fuse.
Try starting it immediately at the moment after initializing a diagnostic tool, that worked for me…when the transmission was not plugged in. Keep it up!
I just got a 135i this is really cool knowing what each part looks like and what it does keep up the great videos🐐
ran into this channel with the last video about this 135i & I've been waiting a long time for this follow up vid. it's going to be a good series
Can’t wait to see the build series on this car
Found your channel yesterday and I can’t wait for the next video on the 135i 🔥🔥
Had a similar issue with my e90. Open the fuel rail and check that fluid is coming out when cranking. Mine was a fuel sending unit going bad. Not the fuel pump.
Highly recommend flushing the fuel system and putting fresh e91+ in it.
You inspired me to pull the trigger and get a 135i. Got it back in December, learning as I go, having fun with it tho haha. I'm swapping my clutch and flywheel and the stuff you do makes what I'm trying to do look simple lol
Check the crank sensor that is the the right side of the throttle body and also double check that key cas and dme are all communicating right. Had the same issue where a communication issue with the three caused crank but no start and also the sensor was a issue also for another time.
As a 335i owner I would love to see this car fixed, good luck guys!
She’s running now 💪🏼 thanks bro
Cool seeing that there’s always a work around to check if something works. Was unaware there are some for euro brands also. I stick to jdm, but have always had a dark spot in my heart for euros❤
I swap dme cas keys in a bunch of cars they always start. I would check fuel pressure on the high side. Possible a bad hpfp or unplugged maybe. Also I would double check your dme wiring. The sub connectors inside the large connector not being in the right orientation has caused the wiper blades to act like that in my experience. I would also pull a spark plug and check for spark. If you do not have the fuses/wiring In the dme hook up correctly you will not get spark
Waited over a week for this video, but well worth the wait!! excited to see her running
You have to program the ECU, CAS and dash to the existing VIN on the car. I have a guy here in Toronto that can program these for you… it’s a pain in the ass and requires quite some tech knowledge. This also requires having the old ECU, CAS and dash so you can download the info and program the new ones
You will want to code the EKP module which controls the fuel pump. Since you got the DME, CAS and FRM modules from another vehicle! My EKP module failed and needed to be replaced; had to code in order for the replacement to work.
That's awesome you got it turning over I would check the crank sensor.
Let’s go! Always love these videos Jake. Awesome to see you working through the issues!
I wanna do everything you did to your 135 to my dct 335is. Keep up the good work man.
I enjoyed this video more then I expected. I liked seeing the progress of solving issues as you troubleshoot. Good job guys. Earned a sub!
Welcome aboard 👋🏼 glad you liked it man, we just got it running for good now in the latest upload!
I love trying to figure out mystery’s like this. Best of luck!
good luck with this project. i'd check crash sensor as they can cause fuel cut out
Woaw great progress, good luck for the next video
Subscribed. Excited to see how this BMW ends up. Hopefully running
She’s running now! Check the latest video. Welcome to the channel 👋🏼
So glad you back to making videos! One of my Fave channels!😊👍
Solid editing bro - worth the wait!
Check to see if you accident swapped the vanos connectors, Ive some that before and had some issues. Other than that all those new modules need to be coded. I would try to do them one by one down the line, good luck!
I dont own a BMW but I love watching videos like this, maybe check to see if the actual fuel lines aren't clogged
Check there is fuel going to the rail. If it is, then it is the injections not firing. You'll need to reprogram the DME, cas and such. Also, the DME, cas, and key fob and reader are all linked together. Didn't see it in the video, but did you change out the port for the key fob?
Jake if it has water damage then i would be cleaning all the earths blocks take the rear seat out there is 1 on each side of the inner wheel arch where the bolster goes rectangle block with brown wires in it there is also 1 near the fuse box also rectangle with brown wires on it and there are 1 behind each headlight on the skirt you also need to check the 2 red power cables that come from the battery to the turminal blocks next to the battery in the boot as they are bolted to the body through black plastic blocks and are prone to get corrosion on them the wipers are going spaz because the can network is not talking correctly on the DME check for corrosion or broken terminals i have just changed a whole wiring harness on a e92 335i m sport there are a lot of earths and am doing a engine swap turbo ford barra and have had to do a can wire loop because i have no factory DMEand my wipers turned on just like yours you neeed to use ista d clear all the faults crank it over it will either start or throw new codes again hope this helps cheers from down under
Couple of things you can try (been in this exact same situation with a Frankenstein rebuilt 335i.
It's probably not the DME coding because you already have a matching CAS to go with it but try that first because it's easy.
Next thing to do would be check the HPFP and associated fuse.
Now the other thing I'd actually check is all of your ground straps and also the FRM because that module can do all sorts of funky stuff...reason being is because whenever your wipers go wild like that it's a sign of a resistance issue...just pull the FRM from the other car and give it a whirl first and if not check the ground straps...I'll bet one close to your HPFP is crusty.
You mean JBE right? It's the one that controls the wipers.
Whoops yes JBE...under the fuse box he was messing around with
Yup the wipers being on is a failsafe. They should see if they have any communication issues over the canbus lines.
Good luck with getting it started! The steering wheel trim looks brand new, too bad there's a big gash on the top of the steering wheel though
There were a couple loose clips in the engine bay, in the first video. Maybe a sensor is still unplugged.
Yes this is the video I was looking for good stuff man keep us updated with this please!👍🏼
Awesome video, been watching you since you been building the 135i
like some one say bellow you need to code all the modules together in case u havent , the new junction box to the dme cas key and frm module all need to be coded together and if its possible with the same vin as the car has it
You need a good diagnosis. Could be that bmw modules are linked to each other to prevent theft? So many different modules it's hard to tell. If you don't hear the fuel pump priming I'd start there.
check the fuel rail see if it squirts gas out if not its prob ur fuel pressure regulator basically uses pressure in gas tank to push it into the system to ur motor
Just a thought looks like you poured hardly 2 gallons of gas in, fuel pump sounds like its not making any pressure at all, doesnt sound under load
I was wondering the same
I have had an EWS module failing me in the past so I had to code out my EWS system and that’s exactly what it does. Tells fuel to not get sent to the engine if it thinks that the car is stolen
This revive is so insane on this 135i lol I’m here for it 💯💯💯🔥🔥
It's the alarm system for sure. If the module is not coded to the rest of the system, it won't let the injectors fire at all.
Check your fuse Box again.
The flood damage was repaired in Germany and it was set back. It was running when it was Repossessed.. It's gonna be something very simple. Might be difficult to find though. Maybe injector wires Good luck I'll be watching.
Relieved that this car isn’t flooded on the instagram reel you posted 😂😂. I was like this can’t be true
I saw that and was like no!!!!
I worked at BMW for a few years between the wipers and the fuel injectors not firing it looks like the FRM is bad. I have seen this happen a couple times while working at BMW
Super excited to see it start and run! Good luck gents!
Way to get it to almost to run. Looking forward to the next video. Not sure about the fix. Can't stand chasing down electrical problems on the e90 n54. GL.
Take out that lpfp and check what's going on maybe the pick ups clogged. It also sounds very weak like it's not moving any fuel
water in the fuel system, remove injector rail and completely bleed out system with the rail off and confirm you have spark if not then start chasing modules and wiring
Check the EKP and make sure the CAS and DME are communicating.
go into live data and see what fuel is doing , protool shows both lpfp and hpfp , then check spark
Always loving the channel man keep it up!!
Can't believe you got the car to run even if just for a moment! hopefully you can fix out the rest of the issues
Let’s go !!!! The old 1 series gunna love this new heart !! 💪🏼🔥🙏🏼🙏🏼
SUPER STOKED YOU GOT IT RUNNING!! you’ll get the crank no start figured out in no time you got this!!
I would of drain the whole fuel that was left first, new fuel filter, & fill it up with new fuel.. not saying this would solve the issue but at least it will help
Keep up the 135i content! Making me want to buy one more and more! 🤙🏻
Super cool to see the transformation to have it at least kick on .
Excited for the next video,was kinda hoping we were gonna see it start 😂
Very the fuel filter my BMW had a filter under the driver side measure the pressure. But also disconnect the map sensor and try starting it
Hi you need to sync CAS module with DDE and all rest of car also key need to be sync to the CAS module then you can start the car
check crank/cam position sensors on the trans. probably shorted in flood
Never done it personally, but you need a ISTA (BMW software), a USB interface to the car, and to synchronize the used DME and Modules to the car 👍
Motor sounds healthy man! Take this motor and put it into your other 135i instead. Then LS swap this 135i instead! Keep up the uploads bro, we'll beat the algorithm ❤
Man I’m so excited to see this thing running! Keep up the good work!
Love this series . Can't wait to see it run
The wipers tell that there is an issue with communication to the DME. It could be bad or missing fuse or relay in the DME compartment. Make sure there is power to the DME.