How to FLUSH SET a gemstone - Tutorial l Gem Collectors
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
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Shawn brings you a selection of gemstones, jewelry, mineral & fossil specimens in an educational format. Shawn creates one new show a week. Tune in on Thursday!
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i have now watched this video maybe 8 times in the last year. i am a lapidary and gem dealer in the making, but with covid im finding it very hard to progress in my career as i cannot find an experienced and willing-to-share jeweller to teach me. this video has helped more than i can explain, and i am hoping to flush set my first black opal in the months to come. thankyou very much. Reginald Briggs ~
Hi Steven! I'm so glad you found the video helpful. After many years in the jewelry business I enjoying sharing my knowledge with you all. Shawn
Well, nice going Shawn. It must have been a great experience with the Italian jewelry instructor-there is great joy in finding a teacher that knows a trade, a craft, and can pass on his knowledge to an inexperienced novice. Your instructor would be proud, you do quite well. Thanks for the video.
As a studio jeweler, I enjoyed your demo of using the hammering hand piece to flush set the stone. I have to tell you though, I kept waiting for an accident to happen when you began finishing and using your flex shaft. I teach my studio studio safety on the first day and long hair needs to be tied back. Just the smallest distraction, no matter how brief, and your hand piece could end up next to your forehead with your hair wound up in it. Thanks for a great tutorials.
I was worried about that too! Terrible accidents can happen with the flexshaft or the polishing station right behind him.
A little pain is nothing to fear. As long as they use eye protection, people can be stoopid all they like.. That's what I teach in work shop or fly fishing.
Great explanation.
I am a blacksmith and wanted to make my own rings.
You really helped me evaluating my thoughts regarding the project.
same here only im a glass maker bronze caster and electroplater..
Where science meets art. Beautiful result. Subscribed.
Wow! You are the first person I’ve seen in flush setting tutorial videos who uses the hammer technique for setting. Absolutely brilliant and amazing!! Thank you so much for sharing. I have to successfully set super tiny gemstones in this way. 😆😅
Merci pour votre générosité et votre pédagogie.
Vous êtes une belle personne.
OMG I am soooo grateful to having found this video of yours!!1 Thank you so much for all the insights. I loved it! Thank you Thankyou!! Much love .
Is it possible to achieve this kind of setting if I only have round cutters? Thank you so much for this video!
that ruby ring on his hand looks sweet!!!!!
You are absolutely awesome, and a joy to watch and learn from.
👍🙏
I just want to say thankYOU so much for sharing your knowlege with us, you are the best, thank you.
Amazing video!! Didnt even know that rotoary hammer tool was used for that. I even had it laying around in my workshop. Thank you!🙏🏼
Glad it helped!
This video.. by far, is the only one that clearly & simply shows, using the hammer hand piece to set diamonds. Thank you! 🙏. I, for weeks now, have been searching for this and mostly they show the hammer hand piece for bezel settings. Do you have any others like this!
What size drill bit did you use? Did you punch the spot before you started drilling?
I come from a Chinese handmade jewelry factory.i see making that are very cool
You are a master of your craft Shawn!
Not my style of ring, but I admire the craftmenship. Truly amazing. I always thought there is some glue or resin involved.
Thanks a lot, now I know how to set stones. :) Great video
Glad I could help!
I can't believe I found you on here.....yay!!!!!!!....now I can watch you again...
Hi Kelly, thanks for watching!
@@gemcollectorswithshawnlgem4613 I'll keep watching!...hope your doing well?...do you ever do any repronging for people????
you are the very good teacher in this case thank you
Very useful demo! I'm going to be trying to add some bling to one of my knife handles with this technique. Thanks! (Subscribed)
were you successful??
I've just set my 3-4v stone ever, and the first one to be flush. And it just happened to be oval - looking back, that doesn't seem to have been the easiest task. The result isn't good enough for me either - but I did learn a great deal from it.
Hi Thanks for the demo. Question, can an unfaceted cabochon be flush set?
Yes
thanks a lot, chief!
interesting, thank you. Might be the angle (although I don't think it is) but the left sapphire looks like it's set deeper/or the size difference is visible.
❤ What acid did you use please. Just cheking...first quench in water and then in acid?
Thank you for this. I honestly your still at GSN
What this machine called you used it to press the stone
You are a very great jeweler thanks a lot for this video
Great video sir realy helped me out I've only started casting rings this year and just haven't realy bin able to get my gem stones cast in a realy nice looking way this way seems like a much better way to them centered and were I want them to sit master at your craft thanks again had to subscribe can't wait for the next video
This is so interesting, thank you for sharing!!
Great tutorial, but as another beginner in metal arts I agree with other commenters that it would be great to know the names of the tools you used, what kind of buffing wheel that is, how you polished the metal etc.
Thanks! We will make sure we provide all information in further video.
i love the simple design gems ring that you wear... did you made it by your self?... would you show us the tutorial video please?.. its gonna be great
Please Help, what is the name of that tool that he uses for automated burnishing? The little jackhammer that moves up and down? Thank you
It’s called a hammer hand piece; foredom is the most popular brand. This hand piece is used with the flex shaft.
How would you flush mount a uncut garnet to antler ring?
Thank you for this marvelous class
You done an exceptional job, ibqish I could do that!
Thanks for showing us your work of art.
whats the name of the hammering head used to pin the gem stone to the ring?
Thank you so much
3:25 - They are highspeed drills, that dont mean highspeed drilling. Tip is when you drill (with good equipment) you see and feel when the drill take of material when you use the right emount of pressure, if you use to high speed and to low pressure the drillbit just get damage...
Thank you very much for this tutorial, your explanations are very clear😊 can I know the references of the tools used after the hammer hand piece, the sanding wheel and the polishing wheel? Thanks
Thank you for the compliment but I am not sure what pieces you are referring to after those you mentioned. All can be found in the Stuller or RioGrande catalog. Shawn
Ok😊,thank you for your answer, I was referring to the last two tools used in the video😊
Aren’t you just lovely. You explained and showed precisely and concisely
Thank you
My pleasure! I'm glad I can share it with you.
@@gemcollectorswithshawnlgem46132:28
Shawn, between you and Andrew Berry, I’ve learned an amazing amount of knowledge..... keep it up!!
It is appreciable , because metal showing.stone inlaying is good.
You are a AWESOME craftsman/artist and very down to earth, I would love to be your apprentice ( I feel that I could really take instruction from you). Thank you, Cory
Hi, Cory. What a compliment! I'm glad I'm able to share my knowledge with you.
Perfection! 😎
How do you do the center stone? I love those settings but never see how they are done.
There are two episodes in the “How it’s done” series available to view where I showcase the making of a sapphire ring and feature how I flush set the center cabachon oval and 2 round faceted sapphires. The technique is the same where I undercut below the edge just enough to “pop” the stone into the mounting and either use a hammer handpiece if your confident enough and familiar with how easily broken a stone is using that piece of equipment so it’s advanced stone setting for sure. The other method everyone should learn first is the use of a gravers block or type of vise to secure the ring and then use a hammer and punch type tool ( I make and shape mine as needed from a prong pusher and burnisher) to hammer the tool against the metal to close it over the edge of the stone. Much much slower but safer if not confident with the hammer handpieces… especially the better Swiss made ones that really move the metal much quicker…. But require practice….
Awesome, clear tutorial. Thanks
Really nice demo, thanks so much!
Hello Shawn, Lovely video. How can a young man like me get into such a craft? I am 22 years old with a burning passion in gems and jewelry
Absolutely well-received, Thank you!
Nice video
Thanks
Thanks so much for the tutorial, could you please tell me the grid of the sand disc you used?... and what kind of the finer wheel you used for the polishing?...
Come to me I can show you baby
Shawn, great demo, but I was worried the whole time that you'd snatch yourself bald-headed with the flex shaft. Please tie back that lovely hair!
Thank you for watching, Mary! I'll remember that next time.
You took the words right out of my mouth @mary cahill !
This is the first video of Shawn’s that I have come across and that’s all I could think of when those great safety warnings popped up 😂
I had hair like that as a 17 year-old apprentice in an engineering training school at work. The training school manager barked at me one day as he caught me traipsing across the shop floor - "Oy, get yer effin 'air cut" Haha. I wish I had hair like that now!
Beautiful work ♥️🥰😍
Thank you!
Great video
Excellent video but would like to know sizes of drill bits, and sanding discs.
The snap on sanding discs are 7/8” on a 3/32” mandrel and the initial drill bit is a 1mm standard twist drill. The size of the setting bur used to make the seat for the stone should be slightly smaller than the round stone being set so thatyou can “undercut” the seat below the bezel making the stone able to “snap in” if done perfectly and thus allowing minimal effort to move the metal over the girdle of the stone.
Beautiful
Ponytail!!! Awesome video, thanks!
you can add gold just solder the whole closed and redrill. you did a great job. I was amazed tho to her you say you send in the gold scraps at the end of the year most people would just melt them down and recast some people who work with all sorts of metals will actuley process everything them self to recover the metals. my self I say one way to know you have something down the line when you get to the point you cant do much and retire I no we never will but that day comes and that is to save all scraps. I hope buy the time I get to be in my 70s I will have so much saved I can go out and cash it all in and have enuff to not have to do anything the rest of my life for money.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I find it easier to send in the gold scraps, but I do know of people who process the recovered metals themselves.
I can set that stone without hammering outside the stone with a clean burnish. I’ve set thousands of stones!
Magnifique 😍
Thank you so much
LOL your one gutsy guy.
I see you running that grinder wheel and dont have your hair up.... lol i only did that one time and sure as shit i got caught in my hair.
Beautiful work!
Thanks so much for the video! For someone just getting started, do you recommend the traditional method of pushing the bezel over the stone or the modern method? What tools/equipment do I need for either (they weren't named in the video)! Also, what type of sandpaper did you use? :)
There is no
Nicely done! Makes one appreciate the work that goes on!
Hi, great tutorial. Can I ask what the tool was that you used when testing to see if you could snap the stone in? It looked sort of like pliers but with a flat side that wouldn't hurt the stone? Thank you.
I have a simple version of this.. it’s called a stone setting pliers
thank you for your video!
6:16 which hammer tools did u use???
So beautiful 😍
LOOKS GREAT.
THANK YOU for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
How exactly do you measure the distance? From the edges of both stones? Or the edge of the big stone to the center of the smaller stone? I don't see how measuring edges would allow for making more room to set the stone after the initial drill through, so I'm assuming edge-center?
Beautiful. Thank you
Great tutorial, can you show how you set the centre stone too please?
I have produced shows that demonstrate several types of stone setting. The project pieces, the opal pendant and sapphire ring have been done in segments with all steps shown. Thanks for watching and continue to do so and you will see many types of stone setting as well.
Gem Collectors with Shawn l Gem Shopping Network thank you 🙏
Beautiful....
I would love for you to flush set a fancy cut, " princess , marquis , etc. , etc. ". With all due respect.
OMG so cool you are awesome
You kinda look like John Denver, but with longer hair.😁 very informative video, I will have to try this some time.👍
I wonder why some jewelers don’t work with a ring holder or support the ring on the pin, that’s weird way of working.
Thanks for this dude! I'll buy you a pint of beer whenever your in England next :)))
VERY interesting!!! Thanks Shawn! Cindy in S. Central Pa. Ü
People do what they want, but from the moment the stone fits (tightly!) into the hole, it takes me less than one minute to set it - no pneumatic stuff, very little clean up if any, I do it the old way with a polished end of a broken bur in a handle. Try it twelve times and you can do it too, it really isn't difficult.
New subscriber here. It's always nice to touch up with a review before doing a job.
I have to take back some, what I meant was that a GOOD minimotor handdrill was a eyeopener for me, not the normal shit, the DENTAL shit...
I by luck got one when I bought a cast owen, for 250$, new one 2500$ at least.👍
But i can say this, if/when my Kavo 09 dies and can not be economly repaired, I would put up the 2500$ if I dont find another used on the market.
Why does the hole need to go all the way through for gem cleaning? Do small particles of dirt and stuff actually get under the bezel and gem?
Yes. Drain holes
Another reason for the hole, is to pop out stone if it’s not level.
At some point I want to find an apprenticeship. If I had a nickel for how many times I’ve failed at this I’d be retiring at 31.
I envy your hair.
What's the tool called at 6:41?
can i flush set a cabochon?
What's the tool that rapidly hammers the metal called
It's called a hammer piece that will go on a Foredom flexshaft Sean.
Yo soy azul ontaria,color rosado mujer de honor y verde la junta y blanco la transparencia y honor y la integridad
Parabéns! 👍
Please explain why some flush settings are not considered real, aurgentic, because of the setting. I have waterfall earrings that are etched as diamonds I the girdle. The jeweler believed because tge settings, they are more costume, not real carbon. He could not see the etch ge said. It clearly is visible, seen partially with naked eye. Who would test in thus case?
Ms. Margaret,
Unfortunately there is a big difference between jewelry store employees that call themselves “jewelers” and actual employees that are fully skilled goldsmiths and/or book or field educated experts in gems and minerals.
Someone doesn’t have to have the diploma or the certificate from a jewelry school to have knowledge that far surpasses those that do. Actual hands on experience at the bench or Gem ID Lab and working with different mentors over many years will far surpass any few week course that then deems one as a “jeweler” or Gemologist through a piece of paper when you completed a course. Having the passion to self educate ones self through books and use of Gemology equipment and practice will greatly add to the basics that a Gemology course will give.
That said, opinions will vary tremendously from jeweler to goldsmith to gemologist to jewelry “clerk” which is the category I put the largest percentage of employees at chain and department stores, just clerks.
I will try to sum up your very good questions that our industry faces daily in a simple fashion.
First, you may very well have learned more from watching GEM Shopping than your jeweler or “clerk” knows!!
At least it sounds like it!! Also, the description of a flush setting has nothing to do with whether a stone is genuine or not. They are two different subjects. A flush set stone, can be done with any fake, rhinestone, quartz, diamond etc.... it’s any stone of any shape that the girdle falls just below the surface of the metal which is then “burnished” to create a rim of metal that covers the edge/girdle of the stone, thus holding it in place. This is called “flush set”.
If the metal is gold silver or platinum than this is the method used to create a genuine flush set stone. In other metals and costume jewelry this effect can be made to look genuine through the use of glue to “set” the stone. Saving time and danger of breakage.
Another actual stone setting method gives the appearance of flush setting but is done by using a beading tool to create a rounded bead of metal from the same edge of metal used in flush setting. Usually 3-4 or more beads of metal are pushed over the stone to keep it in place and this is also the method used for “pave’” set stones. It is called Bead Set. A magnifying glass or loupe can be used to determine if it was bead set but should be visible to the eye if the stones are big enough.
I also did an episode on bead set and flush set stones as well. The sapphire ring I made in the “How It’s Done” series has flush set sapphires on the side for a visual description.
SUMMARY : I am not sure what you mean by “etching” but I can simplify it.... If the jewelry article is not made of a precious metal, and it should be stamped as to what karat and type of metal it is, than there is a high likelihood that the stones are not genuine either and thus considered costume jewelry.
Genuine flush setting is unlikely in this case due to cost involved. And the stones can be scratched with any piece of quartz or stainless steel knife.
If the piece is made of precious metal than the earlier information above is pertinent and the stones if diamonds only, cannot be scratched by any object but this test should be done with caution in the event they are genuine but not diamonds.
Final note: you mention “raw stones”...there are very few jewelers, Gemologists and jewelry stores that can differentiate the rough version of a stone from a genuine cut stone of the same type.
The smarter ones won’t offer an opinion if they don’t know for sure, unfortunately there are too many that don’t want to appear lacking an educated answer so they will take their best guess which is more often than not- incorrect. When I had my stores I would show the client how to use a loupe, only takes a few seconds, (jewelers magnifying glass at 10x) and explain and show the customer why I felt a stone was genuine or not. I made a lot of clients this way as it made them interested and involved in the science of gems!...... Ask your favorite hometown jeweler who seems to have the most knowledge to actually show you why they feel the way they do. Like the etching issue.....If he or she isn’t busy then they should do so with pleasure if they have the education to back up their answer.... their reaction may tell you all you need to know!!?
I hope this helps....and Thanks for watching and for your question!
@@gemcollectorswithshawnlgem4613 , thank you for your time and knowledge. In case you are not aware, there's a little hidden "gem" about stones found in randomly creek, nature. I'll try to send pics. These are old and new ones I ve collected. Rough as it may be, history was engraved in many loose stones. I used plah- doh like a wax to enlarge on phone. Thanks again, I will keep this link as a reminder that somewhere my collection can be assessed propperly.
@@gemcollectorswithshawnlgem4613 , Thanks for the insight. I tried to share real treat with pics that show engraved stones , gems, that can usually be found in creekbeds. As odd as it sounds, I've collected a few, enlarged the pics on phone to see what is,detailed. There are some nice ones with early dates. I believe 1500s. If I can track a propper email, I ll send the pics.
Nice work . Saving gold, don't forget to wash your apron, shirt and hair over the drawer too. :-)
Good tip!
WHAT TYPE SANDING WHEEL DID HE USE?????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for sharing!
Your manicure is impecable.
Not fair!