Fix Cracked Driveway Cement using Sika Flex Sealant
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2024
- Fix Cracked Driveway Cement using Sika Flex fix and a caulking gun.
I have several small to medium sized cracks about 1/4 inch wide. I wanted to seal them before the winter. If you do not seal them then the snow melt water gets in then over night freezes and moves makes the crack worse.
I used a heavy duty caulking gun. About 8 tubes of Pro Select Crack Flex sealant. This stuff was again hard to find. I had to go to 3 different big box stores to find enough what I needed. Again hard to find and they only had a few in stock. These are kind of pricey at $11 a tube but it is good stuff.
I recommend it over anything else. I was in a crunch to seal my driveway before the first snow.
I'm usually a function over form kind of guy, but those uneven lines would drive me nuts haha. I've watched a bunch of these videos, and most people use tape to get a straight line. I appreciate your no nonsense approach though. I don't know how realistic it is to tape everything. That would turn a simple project into a several day nightmare. One tip I found from an OCD guy is to sprinkle dirt from your yard on the wet caulking to stain it. It helps it blend in a little better. That guy taped and used sand, but I think you could skip the tape if the sand helps blend better. That might be the right blend of form and function. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
I know what you mean. I am sloppy sometimes and seriously just wanted to get it done.
Just a tip instead of tearing up your knees scooting along the crack use an automotive rolling car creeper lay on your side and roll along side the crack. I also blasted the driveway with a pressure washer and filled the cracks with sand first which saves you money on the sealant i went through 2 60lb bags of sand
Great tip. The old knees always need extra help
I just got a delivery of stone from a big box store. The delivery guys broke a couple of chunks off my driveway edge with the forklift. Rather than get hard working guys fired, I decided to just figure out how to reattach the broken pieces. This video is perfect! I'll get my driveway fixed and then build my walkway. Thank you!
Awesome glad to hear you fixed it.
I used the same self leveling compound but cleaned out the cracks and pushed the 3/8” round backer foam and then applied the caulk and let it settle. No smearing with the putty knife.
Great tip and note. I wanted to try the self-leveling. Thanks again
Thanks. I'm in Florida and heavy rain can increase settling. I bought 4 tubes. Hopefully that's enough. Looks easy. I will use a cheap shop vac to make sure there's no debris in the Crack before I seal it. Do it myself cost was $43.00.
Good luck
I use self leveling and I don't need a putty knife, it is level to the concrete and just covers the cracks. I top with Silka sand, looks great. Just saying.
Sweet sounds good. Great idea. Thanks!
Could've used an angle grinder with diamond cutting disc to square off the insides of the crack
Yeah I know now. Thanks
Mix Quikrete bonding adhesive with concrete and apply in cracks,
readymade bonding agents will crack when concrete expands.
Great tip thanks
Any ridged material will fail in this situation. Does not matter what you add to it
@@genecarden780 Concrete bonding agents contain acrylic and latex additives which are flexable not rigid.
@@MySpace662 not flexible enough for an active crack. BTW Thoro Acryl 60 is a better product.I have been making these repairs professionally for over 40 years.
@@genecarden780 To each his own I guess.
Your caulking gun has a round hole to insert the caulking tube nozzle, Insert in hole, squeeze trigger to cut nozzle at desired size....
Yep thanks. Though I never trust the cutters
thanks for the recommendation and demonstration! thought you would use backboard?
I thought about using it but was not sure if it is safe rated for outdoors. A lot of the other viewers comments about using sand, and other tips are really good. I am not a professional, and just found what worked for me.
Did you ever see the Saturday Night Live skit "if it's not Scottish, it is crap"!!
Yes great skit and memory thanks
Pour sand or cement powder over it to help hide the repair
Great tip! Thanks
@@denverhomestead1003 meant to say sprinkle it on while its still wet it'll blend in somewhat & won't look shiny
Shoulda used the sika self level one
I thought about it, but was in a hurry to complete the job
Not the best technique or product. Joint should be cleaned out with a v shaped disc using a side grinder. Blow joint with a blower or use a pressure washer. Let dry. If joint is too deep, back fill with sand to 1/2 from the top of the concrete. Use a sealant that is flexible and flows , you want the product to be self-leveling. Don't fill cracks to the top but leave a 1/4" recessed area. Use play sand to coat the surface . After product is cured, blow away excess sand away.
Great tip and suggestions. Thanks
Jim Taylor is correct (except self-leveling sealer is only an option when cracks to fill are level, with no pitch/slope. Otherwise semi-self leveling *may* be an option for gentle slopes (less than 6 degrees). Else, you simply must another product)
Main point - Your goal is *not* to fill a concrete crack to the very top, level with where you walk and drive. The goal is a flexible seal *down within the crack* that prevents water penetration but is not subject to any more wear and tear than necessary. Filling to the top and scraping excess with a putty knife (regardless of taping edges and neatness of the work) is not the best way. It unnecessarily subjects the sealer to wear and tear.
And, a light sprinkle of sand is a great cosmetic touch after applying the sealer. But I've learned - don't rush to put the sand on too quickly. It's a bit of a timing game - no true 'rule'. You want some curing time to take place before you sprinkle sand on the material. Temperature and humidity will of course affect timing of curing. Just don't put sand over the sealer immediately, or it impedes the curing process. Test an obscure location for tackiness. You need some tackiness of course to let the light sprinkle of sand to stick, but if applied too soon, the sand settles into the sealer and changes its consistency and properties to some degree.
How to repair saftytank crack inside wall
I am not sure I would use it on foundations repair or any load bearing wall or support. I think this stuff is usually for cosmetic repairs. Good luck and be careful
How long did it last you the first time you Fixed it?
Nvm you answered my question 3 years 👇😁
My garage floor I did about 4 years ago. Depending on settling and the elements at least a few years or more but your mileage may vary.
@@denverhomestead1003 if you do it correctly it will last 20 years or more. Unless you have really excessive movement. Hire someone that knows what they are doing. I have installed sealants professionally for over 40 years and have many examples that are 20+ years old..
@@genecarden780 Thanks for the tip.
@@genecarden780 Cool thanks for the note
I am a bit late to viewing this video., I think that brand “Sika” makes a self-leveling product (I believe it only comes in a quart size tube, so a different gun would need to be purchased), but it flows in the crack(s)…
Great tip thanks
So how would you hide this whole thing? Just resurface it?
Yeah..I lived with mine
I'll give you a tip what I do when I feel in a crack with that caulk I use it a little bit of Quick Creek cement powder and sprinkle it on top and it don't stick out near as much
@@brianhall8097 Thanks for the tip
The product says not for cracks wider than 1/4 inch. You used it on cracks wider than that. You didn't show us your method of installation for the so-called crap. Products have limitations but installation is 2/3rds of the job. Did you stuuf the wide joints with some kind of filler like back rod and sand before applying the concrete caulk? Also your work is kind of messy.I would never be happy with smashed up edges. Sorry. But thanks for showing us the products you used and consider superior.
Thank you for the comments. I just wanted to get it done since it is over 25 yrs+ old driveway. Eventually it needs to be jack hammered and re-done.
Read the directions and maybe you won't call them crap. The right tool for the right project.
This will fail soon too. Sika is a great product. But even great products will fail when they are installed this poorly. The crack has to have backer rod installed correctly before the sealant. Then the sealant has to be carefully installed completely filling the crack above the backer rod. Not just smeared around. You should probably just hire someone. BTW the Sika patching compound that you said was crap is a really good product. It’s not Sikas fault that you do not understand what it is made for.
Great tip and note.
Backer rod only needed if its a deep crack or if you want to save on sealant
@@simd510backer rod does 3 things.
1. It controls the depth of the sealant. Sealant should be 1/2 as deep as it is wide. But 1/4” minimum 1/2” maximum. It is critical to get the proper depth and the proper profile.
2 It prevents a 3 sided bond
3 it gives the sealant the proper profile to perform correctly.
I ALWAYS use backer rod if I possibly can. Even if I have to grind a little deeper. They actually sell half round backer rod for shallow joints but it is very hard to find. Getting that concave profile to the underside of the sealant is that important. Try to find “ sof rod” or “ “Titan foam” they are much softer and actually made for cracks where the size varies. And you can get it into small cracks.
@@simd510 this is a better video but don’t use sand for longest life
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Try not to resort to sand. It will shorten the life of the sealant because the profile will be wrong.
@@genecarden780 so if a crack is really small you would grind it wider just so you can fit the rod?
Don't use the CRAP !
For a guy who hates crappy stuff, you compressor is crap. Ironic. You also did a VERY crappy job along the wall that shows up in the video.
Yep I know. It is an old loud beast compressor, and yeah I was just trying something on the wall.
That’s what she said😂😂😂😂
Nice!
What a mess!! Get someone who knows what they're doing!!
I hear you yep. I am a slob
@@denverhomestead1003 your appeal is to the majority of Diy, ordinary Joe Bloggers out there...keeping it simple & real👍 I agree, those crappy products you mentioned, are some I have used in the past🤣
@@johnormsby2034 Thank you. Yep. I am not a professional just a homeowner trying to save a few bucks and get materials at the average big box store. I am not the most tidy, neat, or detailed. I just want to get the job[s] done. Thanks for watching.
🇵🇸💢🩺
That looks like crap.
Crap!
Thank you for the product review and sharing your knowledge. I am forever in a DIY Circle of Projects: sometimes I get stuck in "analysis paralysis" and before I know it I need to get back to the weekly maintenance tasks then my project is delayed for another week then it rains. For years I have been trying to repair my parent's swimming pool.
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I am the same way. I research and research and try to find all methods and options which work best for me for example: tools, supplies availability, with my skills, knowledge, time, interest and motivation.