Thanks for watching! Check out this rebuild project: BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLfGJyGAcNr7-J2rSmmcNcQIT0QIvi2jCL.html BMW 335i Playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLfGJyGAcNr78Xbwh-kwd90uoDwGM3qr57.html
Not sure if I'll ever rebuild an engine, but this is super cool to see done in a garage and not some expensive workshop. I don't know why on the forums people talk about how it's impossible to do!
Hey! As a technician, if I could make one suggestion is to ditch the Pittsburgh torque wrench. Personally from testing it has been shown to overtorque in the lower range and under torque in the upper range. In the budget range id recommend a tekton. Or on the baller range a digital ICON or Snap on. Especially on crucial parts like this.
Thanks for the advice. I've been meaning to get it and keep forgetting or postponing. I've tested mine with a friends Snap-on and it was great except for under lb ft, so hopefully I'm safe!
Really enjoying these rebuild videos, my n55 blew up also since the previous owner overboosted it with e85 so it spun a rod bearing, always wanted to know how plasti gauge was so this vid was real informal, whered you get that nice crankshaft from? looking forward to the future vids!
Appreciate you watching! Just posted the rod bearing video and more to come. I got it on eBay.. of all places, I was on the look out for a few weeks as most were asking crazy money for it.
I haven't put too much thought or research into that, but from what I understand, you'd have to get your crankshaft journals machined to accept the bigger bearings. Aftermarket bearings can be had in standard size or oversized 0.25mm. If your clearance is more than 0.25mm over spec, the crank is pretty much trash and you start with another one. Mostly, this is done to have that peace of mind that everything fits properly and there isn't too much deviation between the cylinders.
@@SimpleCarGuy That's what I thought, but I've seen some people say it's okay to use TTY bolts for this test and then re-use them for "real", but honestly it would make me super nervous to do that. Thanks for the response!
Sounds like English is not his first language. I chose this over other videos where they talk about themselves for 20 minutes. Go watch those, they talk faster. This guy is straight to the point and informative without all the BS. Good job with your trash comment.
Thanks for watching!
Check out this rebuild project:
BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLfGJyGAcNr7-J2rSmmcNcQIT0QIvi2jCL.html
BMW 335i Playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLfGJyGAcNr78Xbwh-kwd90uoDwGM3qr57.html
Not sure if I'll ever rebuild an engine, but this is super cool to see done in a garage and not some expensive workshop. I don't know why on the forums people talk about how it's impossible to do!
Hey! As a technician, if I could make one suggestion is to ditch the Pittsburgh torque wrench. Personally from testing it has been shown to overtorque in the lower range and under torque in the upper range. In the budget range id recommend a tekton. Or on the baller range a digital ICON or Snap on. Especially on crucial parts like this.
Thanks for the advice. I've been meaning to get it and keep forgetting or postponing. I've tested mine with a friends Snap-on and it was great except for under lb ft, so hopefully I'm safe!
Thank for the clear explanation.
Really enjoying these rebuild videos, my n55 blew up also since the previous owner overboosted it with e85 so it spun a rod bearing, always wanted to know how plasti gauge was so this vid was real informal, whered you get that nice crankshaft from?
looking forward to the future vids!
Appreciate you watching! Just posted the rod bearing video and more to come.
I got it on eBay.. of all places, I was on the look out for a few weeks as most were asking crazy money for it.
Thanks for the video. How do you clean the plastigage off of the bearing surface?
Great video
What do you do if the clearance isn’t within spec? Get a different size bearing?
I haven't put too much thought or research into that, but from what I understand, you'd have to get your crankshaft journals machined to accept the bigger bearings. Aftermarket bearings can be had in standard size or oversized 0.25mm. If your clearance is more than 0.25mm over spec, the crank is pretty much trash and you start with another one. Mostly, this is done to have that peace of mind that everything fits properly and there isn't too much deviation between the cylinders.
Where do i compare the measurement and how do i know if the measurement still in specs?
Curious: Did you use the old bolts or brand new ones for this test?
Old bolts for the test. Once you use new bolts, you cannot use them again for final assembly as they are torque to yield bolts.
@@SimpleCarGuy That's what I thought, but I've seen some people say it's okay to use TTY bolts for this test and then re-use them for "real", but honestly it would make me super nervous to do that. Thanks for the response!
I am totally confused why at 3.17 the white portion says .076 but yet is the thinnest in width.
Got it. Must think in reverse.
very very useful
Now i know how to mesure. I bought wrong rod bearings
Using ratchet to tight 90°😂😂
What I hate about listening to this guy is that he talks to much like explaining to child , pick up the pace and get to the point ..
Ah, you must be looking for the channel "advanced car guy". Silly.
Sounds like English is not his first language.
I chose this over other videos where they talk about themselves for 20 minutes.
Go watch those, they talk faster.
This guy is straight to the point and informative without all the BS.
Good job with your trash comment.
@@willnichols6470, or the 'complicated car guy'! Lol
Love it!