R.J.SAIS ** I disconnected the Temperature sending unit/temp sense, so How can I test the instrumentation temp gauge in my cars dash board by itself to check if its working correctly, what do I need to do? 1.) How can I test the Pressure of the water pump and the pressure of the radiator while the car is idling and running? I want to know what the pressure is through the radiators hoses and water pump hoses, how can I do this? ** 2.) The Water Pump is "increasing" the radiators coolant into the car engine and into the radiator core to increase the flow of the coolant? 3.) How can you test if your radiators hoses and water pump hoses has to much pressure the pressure is to higher than normal operating pressure?
This is the sending unit, right? I haven't seen anyone address this, just the coolant temperature sensor or the ECT/fan switch. I'm having a shit time trying to bleed the system and determine why the temperature gauge doesn't rise much most of the time. I don't want a false measurement to have me driving dangerously hot while the gauge is barely elevated. I have a sound that makes me think the water pump cavitated -- initially I thought it was the distributor slowly giving up, but I changed it and the sound is still occasionally present. The pump sounds screechy and chatters to varying degrees, like it's running empty at times, which might kill it if its bearings aren't already shot. I replaced it about three years ago along with the timing belt, and this issue is relatively recent. I've been inclined to think that this is the pump screwing up, as I had no problems -- no coolant leaks -- to make me think there would be air in the system. However, I don't think that I over-tensioned the timing belt so as to cause bearing failure in the water pump, but that's just a guess at this point. I don't want to pull the water pump if this is as 'simple' as bleeding the system -- which I did before, effectively -- and maybe replacing a sensor. Thank for any input, if you're so inclined. ; ] EDIT: I have blue VMS plug wires, too. Ha!
Yes this is the sending unit for the temperature gauge. 1st of all take the radiator cap off and start the car with your heater on and see if the level goes down. If it does add coolant and see if that helps. Did you replace the thermostat when you did the water pump?
@@RJSais -- Hey, thanks for the reply! Sorry for my delay. I don't get around to online follow-up like I should. : / I *_recently_* replaced the thermostat, as the first item on the list to 'unprofessionally' but reasonably trace the problem and not merely take hopeful whacks at the pinata through common parts-changing guesswork. I'm sure that there was some air trapped in the system. The lower hose felt partially full, and often not very warm. It changed a bit, I think due to air bubbles. I figured out that the ECT fan switch was okay. I have a loud exhaust currently, so I had to run a string and lightly tape it to a fan blade so that I could sit and monitor a pretty constant 2.5-to-3 idle until the string popped and the fan ran. The idle would fluctuate at times and the tach would bounce, which I thought was a sign that the distributor was the source of the chattering screech, so I almost reluctantly put the rebuilt one in that I've had since 2015 in anticipation of replacement. The noise was still there even after what I had figured was finally a successful air-bleed. I borrowed my neighbor's stethoscope, and I even used my long screwdriver to 'analyze' the noise, and I finally figured that it was likely the AC compressor. I think that the AC hardly worked when I got the car almost five years ago. The power steering was leaking from my 'day one' as owner, so that belt got disconnected in this process as the first mistaken suspect. Well, my 'mystery noise' indeed ended up being the AC compressor. I eventually cut the belt, as I'd been tinkering in hopes of saving it, eventually removing the tensioner pulley somewhat unintentionally. Getting that reassembled with *_nothing_* taken out of the way was a time-devouring challenge, I will say, but I'm stubborn. Ha! I didn't want to mess with the PS and AC brackets, and I was going to have to zip-tie the belt up and safely out of the way, as the engine mount would have to come off to fully remove it. ; ] In this adventure I ended up with a remanufactured distributor -- which I confidently think was still premature -- a new OEM thermostat, and a used OEM ECT sending unit. I also bought another timing light. There was more expense and time invested than I'd expected, but the now-unbelievably loud chatter is gone, the idle is stable and lower, the coolant is not air-locked, and the engine runs better -- although I *_thought_* it had seemed to be okay. Funny how you adapt to new 'normal'. Ha! Sorry for the long comment, but thank you for kindly responding. ; ] If you don't mind, for those who might see your video and think of taking on the project, I'd like to add a *_bit_* more clarity to your presentation. First, don't hesitate to remove the distributor in order to gain comfortable access to the sending unit. There was no easy way to get the 23-year-old wire off of it, and the risk of breaking aging parts -- especially wiring in an engine bay -- is a nightmarish thought, Also, it was a tad confusing until I'd watched a few times, but as you say, put a bent wire -- I used a tie from a coffee bag freshness closure -- inside the wire's end, take the other end and let it grab the threads in the top distributor mounting bolt hole, and then turn your ignition switch to see -- hopefully -- the temp gauge needle quickly hit maximum. The sending unit's exterior tip and the wire look a lot like a mini spark plug and wire boot. Thanks again, R. J.!
Because it really isnt worth the money and i had that intake laying around so it was free and you will gain maybe 3hp if youre lucky going down there ive tested it before on my ek and i couldnt even feel the difference. Better off saving that money for boost which is what i did.
I have a 99 Honda accord EX the temp gauge shoots to hot right when you turn it on. Iv changed the sensor that you did but still happens i did not use lock tight tho is there anything else that would make it do that. Also Would I be able to take that sensor out and just put an aftermarket gauge instead
Currently have this problem on my GSR swapped EG, now how Hard was it to get down there and do that did you have to take a lot off? As well as where do I find a wire to plug in there and ground it. Like do they sell wires to do that . I know stupid question but I don’t have no Pops to ask so I’m here unfortunately
That guy in the background just got you a subscriber lol
Thanks brotha!!
Huge fcking help bro thank you on this helpful video
You're welcome.
R.J.SAIS
** I disconnected the Temperature sending unit/temp sense, so How can I test the instrumentation temp gauge in my cars dash board by itself to check if its working correctly, what do I need to do?
1.) How can I test the Pressure of the water pump and the pressure of the radiator while the car is idling and running? I want to know what the pressure is through the radiators hoses and water pump hoses, how can I do this?
** 2.) The Water Pump is "increasing" the radiators coolant into the car engine and into the radiator core to increase the flow of the coolant?
3.) How can you test if your radiators hoses and water pump hoses has to much pressure the pressure is to higher than normal operating pressure?
How do I pull the wire off to replace the sender
This is the sending unit, right? I haven't seen anyone address this, just the coolant temperature sensor or the ECT/fan switch.
I'm having a shit time trying to bleed the system and determine why the temperature gauge doesn't rise much most of the time. I don't want a false measurement to have me driving dangerously hot while the gauge is barely elevated. I have a sound that makes me think the water pump cavitated -- initially I thought it was the distributor slowly giving up, but I changed it and the sound is still occasionally present. The pump sounds screechy and chatters to varying degrees, like it's running empty at times, which might kill it if its bearings aren't already shot. I replaced it about three years ago along with the timing belt, and this issue is relatively recent. I've been inclined to think that this is the pump screwing up, as I had no problems -- no coolant leaks -- to make me think there would be air in the system. However, I don't think that I over-tensioned the timing belt so as to cause bearing failure in the water pump, but that's just a guess at this point.
I don't want to pull the water pump if this is as 'simple' as bleeding the system -- which I did before, effectively -- and maybe replacing a sensor. Thank for any input, if you're so inclined. ; ]
EDIT: I have blue VMS plug wires, too. Ha!
Yes this is the sending unit for the temperature gauge. 1st of all take the radiator cap off and start the car with your heater on and see if the level goes down. If it does add coolant and see if that helps. Did you replace the thermostat when you did the water pump?
@@RJSais -- Hey, thanks for the reply! Sorry for my delay. I don't get around to online follow-up like I should. : /
I *_recently_* replaced the thermostat, as the first item on the list to 'unprofessionally' but reasonably trace the problem and not merely take hopeful whacks at the pinata through common parts-changing guesswork.
I'm sure that there was some air trapped in the system. The lower hose felt partially full, and often not very warm. It changed a bit, I think due to air bubbles. I figured out that the ECT fan switch was okay. I have a loud exhaust currently, so I had to run a string and lightly tape it to a fan blade so that I could sit and monitor a pretty constant 2.5-to-3 idle until the string popped and the fan ran.
The idle would fluctuate at times and the tach would bounce, which I thought was a sign that the distributor was the source of the chattering screech, so I almost reluctantly put the rebuilt one in that I've had since 2015 in anticipation of replacement.
The noise was still there even after what I had figured was finally a successful air-bleed. I borrowed my neighbor's stethoscope, and I even used my long screwdriver to 'analyze' the noise, and I finally figured that it was likely the AC compressor. I think that the AC hardly worked when I got the car almost five years ago. The power steering was leaking from my 'day one' as owner, so that belt got disconnected in this process as the first mistaken suspect.
Well, my 'mystery noise' indeed ended up being the AC compressor. I eventually cut the belt, as I'd been tinkering in hopes of saving it, eventually removing the tensioner pulley somewhat unintentionally. Getting that reassembled with *_nothing_* taken out of the way was a time-devouring challenge, I will say, but I'm stubborn. Ha! I didn't want to mess with the PS and AC brackets, and I was going to have to zip-tie the belt up and safely out of the way, as the engine mount would have to come off to fully remove it. ; ]
In this adventure I ended up with a remanufactured distributor -- which I confidently think was still premature -- a new OEM thermostat, and a used OEM ECT sending unit. I also bought another timing light.
There was more expense and time invested than I'd expected, but the now-unbelievably loud chatter is gone, the idle is stable and lower, the coolant is not air-locked, and the engine runs better -- although I *_thought_* it had seemed to be okay. Funny how you adapt to new 'normal'. Ha!
Sorry for the long comment, but thank you for kindly responding. ; ]
If you don't mind, for those who might see your video and think of taking on the project, I'd like to add a *_bit_* more clarity to your presentation. First, don't hesitate to remove the distributor in order to gain comfortable access to the sending unit. There was no easy way to get the 23-year-old wire off of it, and the risk of breaking aging parts -- especially wiring in an engine bay -- is a nightmarish thought, Also, it was a tad confusing until I'd watched a few times, but as you say, put a bent wire -- I used a tie from a coffee bag freshness closure -- inside the wire's end, take the other end and let it grab the threads in the top distributor mounting bolt hole, and then turn your ignition switch to see -- hopefully -- the temp gauge needle quickly hit maximum. The sending unit's exterior tip and the wire look a lot like a mini spark plug and wire boot.
Thanks again, R. J.!
I checked my gauge with the ground wire trick and it pegged out but when I installed the new temp switch it didn't work, any ideas whats going on?
Not at all. If the gauge pegged that's the only thing left. Maybe you got a faulty temp switch. Crazier things have happened haha.
@@RJSais I'll try another switch, thanks!
@@katanatac did it work? I’m having the same problem currently.
@@pappynotpapi2070 I haven't replaced the sensor yet but I'm sure that is the problem.
What all did u have to take off to get out the way to replace that sensor?
Will this issue cause the bus to stall and display check trans?
Did it work? I Changed my temp sending unit too and my temp gauge still shoots up to H. Bad cluster maybe?
If you ground the wire and the needle shoots up to h the cluster should be fine
Why is your intake not done the correct way? Mine is coming from underneath the engine compartment where the cool air is... not the hot air...
Because it really isnt worth the money and i had that intake laying around so it was free and you will gain maybe 3hp if youre lucky going down there ive tested it before on my ek and i couldnt even feel the difference. Better off saving that money for boost which is what i did.
Engine Hydrolock is common for cold air intake. Unless you have a icebox.
@@ahmadmusa55 yes especially on a lowered car but it wouldn't be so bad with a crv
What kind of loctite blue or red?
Sorry i didn't see this I try to reply to comments as much as I can. Use blue because red would be really hard to remove if you need to again.
I have a 99 Honda accord EX the temp gauge shoots to hot right when you turn it on. Iv changed the sensor that you did but still happens i did not use lock tight tho is there anything else that would make it do that. Also Would I be able to take that sensor out and just put an aftermarket gauge instead
thermostat
Currently have this problem on my GSR swapped EG, now how Hard was it to get down there and do that did you have to take a lot off? As well as where do I find a wire to plug in there and ground it. Like do they sell wires to do that . I know stupid question but I don’t have no Pops to ask so I’m here unfortunately
Any wire
I don't know how I missed your comment I'm sorry. I didn't have to take anything off but the wire off the sensor.
@RJSais where can I get a new one?
Easy on the cursing. 🙄