FYI my brother. Take a pair of side cutter and just nip the crimped part of the steel band clamp. It literally falls right off with no damage to the rubber boot.
In my 30 years of experience that is the very first time I’ve seen anyone thoroughly clean and inspect a CV axle when replacing the boot. Usually they just pack it full of grease and put a boot on it. I’m impressed.
This guy was the best at explaining transmission flush then any full time mechanic on youtube - earned my respect instantly after that. Great learner and teacher.
You didn't put near enough grease inside the CV joint. When that joint spins at high RPM all the grease will be slung to the outer walls, thus causing premature wear.
Right , I almost thought this was one of those spoof videos. My man drilled the clamp , like bro just cut it at the clasp not on the damn band and that thing should be damn near packed with grease
Had a customers car a few years ago with a small nick like that. Thin line of grease all around the wheel well. Could have re-booted it. Could have replaced the whole axle. Instead, we took a grease gun with a needle and pumped some extra grease in the slit. Wiped it down and superglued it shut. He's put 50k+ miles on it and still hasn't leaked since.
That's why if you have any commen sense at all you take everything with a grain of salt, then take in all the relevant information like easy to make mistakes on your first try etc. Also if you have similar parts you can atleast see how to do it. It's better than nothing. He didn't claim to be a master he's just showing his process
If you know anything about one road and Jimmy that's the whole premise of his UA-cam channel he is a DIY guy who does a lot of things that he has never done before and he basically takes you with him technically this is how most people learn to do things they don't want to pay somebody $1,000 to do something they can do for 50 bucks
@@DEVIL666wtf When you buy a boot they often only include a VERY small container of CV Joint grease. Many people don't know that the boot has to be packed so they just squirt some in.
yah I've always just been taught if the boots broke go ahead and buy a new axle, cause most time if I'm tearing a boot it most likely has already ate dirt for a minimum of 5-10 hours riding.
Not always the case bro! I'm an automotive tech by trade and believe me a torn boot is no major issue if caught relatively early on. A good tech will know when a CV needs to be replaced after a boot tear after years of experience
The tech is more than likely going to put a off-the-shelf CV axle with a sub Quality Boot that's going to crack within 2 to 3 years... if cv are good it's better to just use a great great grease... the CVS have needle bearings I have 310,000 Mi on my original needle bearing U-joints of my 4Runner... I use my grease gun on zerks every oil change
A trick i used to use is where the crimping adjustment is, grind the steel away with an angle grinder or bench grinder. Worked like a charm every time.
@@Ilovecarsntruckstrue. But on some vehicles, an axle is 650 bucks, and the aftermarket ones available for them are pure junk. So you invest in keeping them in good shape.
It usually is. I fixed one this week only because it separated when I tried to get the strut out. Plus it was leaking slightly from the clamp not being installed correctly from the factory.
I've seen shops do this because the labor cost is higher which is more profit even if it costs the customer the same amount stupid politics I normally recommend a new one since it's out
It cuts out the liability for tech error in replacing the thing. If the boot isn't installed properly or if the joint fails it's on the tech. Most techs would rather not have to deal with the headache for minimal difference in cost to the customer.
@@lucidbarrier depends on who the OEM is. If it's a Toyota yeah go ahead but if it's a Chrysler product aftermarket is probably cheaper and higher quality 🤣
Usually it's worth getting a whole new axle. They're cheap and usually come with lifetime warranties. The boot kit and grease is half the price of an axle
I've repaired sooo many axles by replacing the boots (there's a simple tool for the clamp, BTW) but today, it's really worth it just to buy a new axle for 75 bucks rather than charge 50 for a new boot instalation
Extra Heavy Duty Zip Ties. I've never had a problem. My Grandmother had her car back to the Mechanic FOUR times over those dumb clamps. Finally they said that she was the problem. I fixed both sides in about an hour with a jack and HD zip ties and it held till the car was worn out.
Never seen a CV joint with a leaky boot that was not contaminated by dirt and water. Replace the whole thing so you won't have to do it a year from now on a cold night, outside, in the driveway.
One of my buddies did that for us on my parents' van... probably a decade ago now. Replacing a ball joint. Freezing rain... Man was a fkn beast. All of us were freezing, retreating to the car to soak up heat and get feeling back into our fingers and toes. Not him! Out there grinding away, cursing up a storm. Did a damn good job too. Really wish he was still around. Hell of a character. Always made people smile and did his best to bring the best out of people he cared about.
Had pull axle out of my vectra yesterday. Infact had to remove intermediate shaft in order to tap off the axle. Stressful but it’s done, just waiting on parts to put her back together. Also control arm was toast so might as well sort it whilst there
Thanks for teaching some of these non gearheads how to DYI. 👍🏿 Next class should be on how to change a tire for one's self , mom and or girlfriend....instead of sitting in the passenger seat watching mom or girlfriend change it or waiting on roadside assistance. 😐😒🤨
I call those half shafts and you can change a boot in 60 seconds, you are good. It always seemed wiser to purchase a half shaft from Ebay, no messing with the grease.
From what I'm told?? most shops just replace the whole axle with new or rebuilt axles. Because you always risk that your old axle can be bent ever so slightly & prematurely damage the transmission/differential?? Old axles are inspected for straightness before being rebuilt.
Grey Silicone also works well, I've used it before on a small tear on a cv boot. Also used a hose clamp to hold the boot on instead of the OEM style clamp.
@@1987FX16 , problem I’ve heard is hose clamps will tear into the rubber. I’ve heard zip ties work, but personally I’ve used wire double over, and tightened. Still holding.
This is definitely extremely clean 👍 this is extremely tight. Just gonna slide this in just gonna put some grease in it 😂sounds like the first time me and the wife did it. lol those were my exact words I told her.
Most of the time it is cheaper and better to just replace the axle rather than repairing it. Time is money. If a new axle is $80 its not worth the time or effort to fix the old one. If you gotta spend $20 on a new boot and one hour repairing the old one then you have to ask yourself if you would rather spend $60 on a new axle or one hour on repairing an old one and still be left with the old joints.
Except there wasn't anything wrong with the bearings, so replacing the boot is the way to go here. The only thing he did improperly here was just covering the bearings with grease, instead of acting packing the bearings with grease. They'll probably fail prematurely now.
@@Redtooth75you are full of chit. It takes me 10 whole minutes more to replace boot vs replace axle. Bought a boot today for $14. Axle would cost 150. So shut TF UP BECAUSE you are clueless
@@CarswithNash one broke the inside and the other ther outside. I just have to disassemble everything and pick the parts that are ther not broken and the least worm. I rock crawl an IFS so i've done this before. Lol.
Considering what’s involved in actually getting the CV shaft out. I ain’t doing no repairs to it. A brand new shaft for $150 is a small price to pay for not having to do it twice.
A Lexus OEM CV axle for $500 vs the oem boots kit for $60. OEM axle can last over 200K miles if you replace just the boots. No one replace boots on a $150 axle.
@@thienha1796i am replacing boot on a 150$ axle tonight. Boot was $14. No-brainer. Only a know nothing sheepdip would replace the whole axle for a $14 boot.
I used to change axle boots before it became more cost effective to my customer to just replace the axle with a brand new one. The hour of labor to disassemble, clean, and reassemble with a new boot you have to buy, costs more money to the customer than just selling them a brand new axle with brand new bearings and everything else. If someone sells you just a boot these days, you should probably look for a mechanic that isn’t out to rip you off.
Mechanic here. With labor included just replace the axle. A torn boot isn't the end of the world either. They just make a mess and wear prematurely. As long as it isn't going clickey, clickey, click drive on it till you can replace it.
Судя по цвету смазки, это смазка с дисульфидом молибдена, которая применяется в наружном шарнире. Во многих руководствах по ремонту производители категорически запрещают использовать смазку с твёрдыми частицами во внутреннем шарнире, частицы дисульфида молибдена повышают износ игольчатого подшипника. Пока не поздно, удалите эту смазку и промойте детали очистителем, смажьте все оригинальной смазкой для внутренних шарниров, либо же смазкой для тяжелых условий эксплуатации без содержания твёрдых частиц, отлично подходит смазка на полимочевинном комплексе, например, Huskey MP-2 Polyurea Grease.
Hmmm … a new CV axle shaft assembly for my car is about $70. A boot kit for the old shaft is about $20. But I’ll burn up the better part of 30 minutes taking the old shaft apart, cleaning it, reassembling, and applying gobs of grease … only to probably have the joint go bad in 6 months anyway because it already suffered wear due to the compromised old boot letting grease out and grit in. In my mind, way worth the $50 extra to avoid all the extra labor/time and just swap in a new shaft with a warranty that oughta last for years, and be done with it and onto my next project.
Good job Jimmy but hope it was a near new axle. if it had more than 40k on it (about half it's service life) I would have just bought a new/rebuilt axle. They are a bit laborious to get in and out. If you fix the boot and then 10k later it's clattering you do it over again. I would NEVER use black grease on my vehicle anywhere. MolyB and Graphite are corrosive to steel. Anyone doing this use only "white lithium" grease.
A new one usually isn't very expensive, Seems like the time and labor for repairing one would be more than it's worth. I'd probably just replace it and be done, with a lifetime warranty
Those are used parts you are refurbishing. I hope you somehow referenced which ball came from which cup along with the ball orientation to the spline. Those parts wear into each other like a matching pair of shoes.
I dont get everyone saying its cheaper to replace the axle in the uk you can buy a universal cv boot for £2.50 that can be fitted with a £40 tool and you dont even need to split the cv joint as the tool stretches the boot over it can be done in less than 20 mins from car pulling in to customer on their way home
Side cutters will snip through the clamps. The grease should be on all the needle bearings plus between 200-400 grams of grease spread evenly in the tracks and boot. That joint is way too dry. Band it clamps are ok but an ear clamp or omega is better.
Replacing cv axel boots is like making love to an insane redhead. It's something everyone should do once. But it's simply better practice to replace the damaged article.
And for the cost of the labor charge you could have replaced the whole axle with brand new boots in well over half the time and half the cost. Sir/ma'am, I'm going to upcharge you without telling you I'm uncharging you. 😁😁😁
@1ROAD unfortunately my old blazer I can't even get a GM factory axle if I wanted to. Only thing available worth buying are Cardone and they aren't too bad. But I guess it's case by case but me personally I just order a new one
@@Alberthoward3right9up they have not been around for a long time but they definitely made 5/8 drive ratchets. I think around the early to mid 1900s. Snap on made 5/8 drive ratchets and sockets and I want to say they made some other odd size drive ratchets
One question did you burp the boot before you sealed it. Old school in me is just wondering. If you don't it will keep leaking grease if too much air is let into joint.
The boot on a cv axle is not just to keep the grease in it acts as pump moving the grease through the bearings the axle needs far more grease for the boot to pump the grease properly
what gave it away !? I am saying that pretty blue new vice as a center piece on his work bench😂& if not that the 5/8 ratchet must have but yeah thts a nice looking vice though much more grease thts extremely not enough !!
Only time I did a boot kit was on used cars cause the guy got a deal on these universal boots and any time one had a click we take the axle out and clean it pack it and put a new boot on in most cases they had a year before they start clicking again one or two after a week You watch the pennies and the dollars will watch them selves the
nicely done, next time be really careful not to have ANY grease on the mating surface of the boot and the CV housing, a little bit can sometimes bite you in the butt.
Idk it's just me but I leave the old greasy in the small areas and just add a bunch of new grease on the joints and inside the boot for good measure lol
Hi, I'm seeing by color of grease that internal CV joint is wrong. That grease in only for external CV joint because of added molybdenum on graphite. Internal CV joint grease must not contain any additives or small bearings will be dead soon.
@@nzuncovered1845 I'm from Europe. I tried to find something for US. GKN Tripod Joint Grease looks promising. For CV joints with needle bearings. Nlgi must be low.
Could you just smack some rtv on it and put a hose clamp with piece of rubber over it while its still in the car ? My trucks got a little leak, I'm tempted to try
FYI my brother. Take a pair of side cutter and just nip the crimped part of the steel band clamp. It literally falls right off with no damage to the rubber boot.
You can say that again, it looks like he damaged the boot a few ribs from the crimp...
In my 30 years of experience that is the very first time I’ve seen anyone thoroughly clean and inspect a CV axle when replacing the boot. Usually they just pack it full of grease and put a boot on it. I’m impressed.
This guy was the best at explaining transmission flush then any full time mechanic on youtube - earned my respect instantly after that. Great learner and teacher.
You didn't put near enough grease inside the CV joint. When that joint spins at high RPM all the grease will be slung to the outer walls, thus causing premature wear.
Right , I almost thought this was one of those spoof videos. My man drilled the clamp , like bro just cut it at the clasp not on the damn band and that thing should be damn near packed with grease
Won't matter if you only smear grease on the outside of the bearings. Willing to bet he doesn't know how to pack bearings
@@iantwaddell4511 he didn't even pack it moderately. Covering in grease is not packing grease into the bearings.
That's why it's quicker just to replace whole cv axel and sometimes is cheaper 🤣
@@larryw866 not a bad idea
Had a customers car a few years ago with a small nick like that. Thin line of grease all around the wheel well.
Could have re-booted it.
Could have replaced the whole axle.
Instead, we took a grease gun with a needle and pumped some extra grease in the slit. Wiped it down and superglued it shut.
He's put 50k+ miles on it and still hasn't leaked since.
Wow, truly a don't gudge the methods, gudge the results moment 😂
@@Brandon-uy1uvgudge? 😂
"I'm going to teach the internet how to do something I've never done before"
That's why if you have any commen sense at all you take everything with a grain of salt, then take in all the relevant information like easy to make mistakes on your first try etc. Also if you have similar parts you can atleast see how to do it. It's better than nothing. He didn't claim to be a master he's just showing his process
@@ogsponge8678 wow man. profound
Well now we know he's done it once.
If you know anything about one road and Jimmy that's the whole premise of his UA-cam channel he is a DIY guy who does a lot of things that he has never done before and he basically takes you with him technically this is how most people learn to do things they don't want to pay somebody $1,000 to do something they can do for 50 bucks
@@boosted2.4_sky you seem emotionally invested in this man
Nice work,you are getting good. Glad the video wasn't called " why not to change a CV boot!!"
Na he really skimped on the greese
Like that one video. Why you shouldn’t install e fans on your car.
@@DEVIL666wtf When you buy a boot they often only include a VERY small container of CV Joint grease. Many people don't know that the boot has to be packed so they just squirt some in.
"why AND HOW not to..."
If that boot wasn't torn, there was no reason to change it, just the bent clamp
He stated that it was leaking grease. Dude is probably just making a video .
Yeah he's a hypochondriac with car parts.
...he demonstrated that it was leaking....
Too be honest. I'd just replace the entire cv axle if that was happening.
Getting new parts and working on the car is fun. Lol
He messed it up with the drill in the beginning, then put the blame on something at some point :D. youtube will soon end up like TV did, full of cr*p.
No need to ever drill those clamps, just get some good side cutter/ snips.
Correct
yah I've always just been taught if the boots broke go ahead and buy a new axle, cause most time if I'm tearing a boot it most likely has already ate dirt for a minimum of 5-10 hours riding.
Not always the case bro! I'm an automotive tech by trade and believe me a torn boot is no major issue if caught relatively early on. A good tech will know when a CV needs to be replaced after a boot tear after years of experience
The tech is more than likely going to put a off-the-shelf CV axle with a sub Quality Boot that's going to crack within 2 to 3 years... if cv are good it's better to just use a great great grease... the CVS have needle bearings I have 310,000 Mi on my original needle bearing U-joints of my 4Runner... I use my grease gun on zerks every oil change
love to see the perfectly clean insides
A trick i used to use is where the crimping adjustment is, grind the steel away with an angle grinder or bench grinder. Worked like a charm every time.
That's more work than just replacing the whole CV shaft
Especially when a new cv shaft is maby 150 at most.
Save 100 but spend 3 hours
@@Ilovecarsntruckstrue. But on some vehicles, an axle is 650 bucks, and the aftermarket ones available for them are pure junk. So you invest in keeping them in good shape.
It’s never that easy either.
Right.... imagine taking it to a shop and paying for a cv boot when you could pay just as much maybe less for a whole new cv axle
I feel like you should have used a lil more grease
That’s what she said 😂
@@fastinradfordable😂😭😭😭
Ok cost of labor and parts? I very curious because I was always told it’s just cheaper to buy a new CV axle with the boots.
It usually is. I fixed one this week only because it separated when I tried to get the strut out. Plus it was leaking slightly from the clamp not being installed correctly from the factory.
I've seen shops do this because the labor cost is higher which is more profit even if it costs the customer the same amount stupid politics I normally recommend a new one since it's out
It cuts out the liability for tech error in replacing the thing. If the boot isn't installed properly or if the joint fails it's on the tech. Most techs would rather not have to deal with the headache for minimal difference in cost to the customer.
@@Sva_rog very true
@Cactus Jones True, but the knowledge of a mechanic is priceless.
This is exactly why I bought whole new cv axlw
FYI complete axles can usually be bought for around the same price as a boot kit on most vehicles.
Not oem
The quality is usually better on the OEM stuff. If the CV isn't making noise, might be better to just replace the boot and pack it with fresh grease.
@@lucidbarrier depends on who the OEM is. If it's a Toyota yeah go ahead but if it's a Chrysler product aftermarket is probably cheaper and higher quality 🤣
Yeah but they don't last as the original. Just replace the boot yourself if your car isn't making any noise.
Bullshit. Just bought a boot today for $14. Entire axle is over $100.
Usually it's worth getting a whole new axle. They're cheap and usually come with lifetime warranties. The boot kit and grease is half the price of an axle
$14 vs $150. Thats a bit more than half the cost.
@@redrustyhill2 idk what you're looking at, I bought a front CV axle for my 2008 infinity g35x AWD for 44.99 straight out of China baby.
I've repaired sooo many axles by replacing the boots (there's a simple tool for the clamp, BTW) but today, it's really worth it just to buy a new axle for 75 bucks rather than charge 50 for a new boot instalation
Those clamps are the bane of my existence
Extra Heavy Duty Zip Ties. I've never had a problem. My Grandmother had her car back to the Mechanic FOUR times over those dumb clamps. Finally they said that she was the problem. I fixed both sides in about an hour with a jack and HD zip ties and it held till the car was worn out.
@@LionWithTheLamb what brand you recommended? I’m gonna do my tie rods soon and don’t wanna deal with those clamps
True repair! You ain't no parts hanger 👍👍👍 Nice work!!!
Well that just saved me money with my old cv axles! Thanks for the tip
Never seen a CV joint with a leaky boot that was not contaminated by dirt and water. Replace the whole thing so you won't have to do it a year from now on a cold night, outside, in the driveway.
One of my buddies did that for us on my parents' van... probably a decade ago now. Replacing a ball joint. Freezing rain... Man was a fkn beast. All of us were freezing, retreating to the car to soak up heat and get feeling back into our fingers and toes. Not him! Out there grinding away, cursing up a storm. Did a damn good job too. Really wish he was still around. Hell of a character. Always made people smile and did his best to bring the best out of people he cared about.
Isn't that why he cleaned it and replaced it with new grease?
@@SL-pg4dhhe is saying it's probably has damage you can't see. Most bearings are exact tolerances and even tiny wear can cause failures sometimes
Just did this 😂 25* for 5 hours
@@SL-pg4dh By the time the damaged boot is discovered the joint is already damaged by the contaminants.
Had pull axle out of my vectra yesterday. Infact had to remove intermediate shaft in order to tap off the axle. Stressful but it’s done, just waiting on parts to put her back together. Also control arm was toast so might as well sort it whilst there
Thanks for teaching some of these non gearheads how to DYI. 👍🏿 Next class should be on how to change a tire for one's self , mom and or girlfriend....instead of sitting in the passenger seat watching mom or girlfriend change it or waiting on roadside assistance. 😐😒🤨
I call those half shafts and you can change a boot in 60 seconds, you are good. It always seemed wiser to purchase a half shaft from Ebay, no messing with the grease.
Oh the fold over the folds. Going to start doing that lol.
From what I'm told?? most shops just replace the whole axle with new or rebuilt axles. Because you always risk that your old axle can be bent ever so slightly & prematurely damage the transmission/differential??
Old axles are inspected for straightness before being rebuilt.
I just shoot in more grease and then put flex seal tape over it. Seem to work
That’s illegal in my country
@@viperz888 what country’s that?
Grey Silicone also works well, I've used it before on a small tear on a cv boot. Also used a hose clamp to hold the boot on instead of the OEM style clamp.
@@1987FX16 , problem I’ve heard is hose clamps will tear into the rubber.
I’ve heard zip ties work, but personally I’ve used wire double over, and tightened. Still holding.
@@70Marc Zip ties stretch too much you can't get the boot to seal properly, steel cable ties or wire is the best
High temp synthetic marine wheel bearing grease is what we used to rebuilt atv cv's
Thanks to the comment section with actual brains I won’t be needing to take any advice from this video.
Id like to see that ratchet trick again in good detail, can't quit be sure what else is invloved.
This is definitely extremely clean 👍 this is extremely tight. Just gonna slide this in just gonna put some grease in it 😂sounds like the first time me and the wife did it. lol those were my exact words I told her.
Most of the time it is cheaper and better to just replace the axle rather than repairing it. Time is money. If a new axle is $80 its not worth the time or effort to fix the old one. If you gotta spend $20 on a new boot and one hour repairing the old one then you have to ask yourself if you would rather spend $60 on a new axle or one hour on repairing an old one and still be left with the old joints.
Except there wasn't anything wrong with the bearings, so replacing the boot is the way to go here.
The only thing he did improperly here was just covering the bearings with grease, instead of acting packing the bearings with grease. They'll probably fail prematurely now.
@@jmackinjersey1 did you read what I said? It is almost always cheaper to replace the whole axle rather than repair the boot when you factor in time.
@@Redtooth75you are full of chit. It takes me 10 whole minutes more to replace boot vs replace axle. Bought a boot today for $14. Axle would cost 150. So shut TF UP BECAUSE you are clueless
Dang ! You make it look easy!
I currently have 2 to combine into 1 for my rock crawler.
If you’re planning to do a splice I have a video you should watch, check my channel it’s right there at the top.
@@CarswithNash one broke the inside and the other ther outside. I just have to disassemble everything and pick the parts that are ther not broken and the least worm. I rock crawl an IFS so i've done this before. Lol.
Прекрасное пособие для работы в машинном цеху. Благодарю Вас милый друг.
Considering what’s involved in actually getting the CV shaft out. I ain’t doing no repairs to it. A brand new shaft for $150 is a small price to pay for not having to do it twice.
A Lexus OEM CV axle for $500 vs the oem boots kit for $60. OEM axle can last over 200K miles if you replace just the boots. No one replace boots on a $150 axle.
@@thienha1796i am replacing boot on a 150$ axle tonight. Boot was $14. No-brainer. Only a know nothing sheepdip would replace the whole axle for a $14 boot.
@@redrustyhill2 Some people make $150 in less labor time than the time it takes them to install a cv boot.
@@thienha1796 such people wouldn't even be watching this video or commenting
I've always just used zip ties to do that, never had an issue so far 🤣
Used regular worm drive hose clamps before.
I used to change axle boots before it became more cost effective to my customer to just replace the axle with a brand new one. The hour of labor to disassemble, clean, and reassemble with a new boot you have to buy, costs more money to the customer than just selling them a brand new axle with brand new bearings and everything else. If someone sells you just a boot these days, you should probably look for a mechanic that isn’t out to rip you off.
You are the ine ripping people off if it takes you an hour to replace a boot. 10 min.
why do i get this feeling it was your drill bit that hit the boot?
Working on “axles” today.
Twin solid axle gang 😤
Mechanic here. With labor included just replace the axle.
A torn boot isn't the end of the world either. They just make a mess and wear prematurely. As long as it isn't going clickey, clickey, click drive on it till you can replace it.
Судя по цвету смазки, это смазка с дисульфидом молибдена, которая применяется в наружном шарнире. Во многих руководствах по ремонту производители категорически запрещают использовать смазку с твёрдыми частицами во внутреннем шарнире, частицы дисульфида молибдена повышают износ игольчатого подшипника. Пока не поздно, удалите эту смазку и промойте детали очистителем, смажьте все оригинальной смазкой для внутренних шарниров, либо же смазкой для тяжелых условий эксплуатации без содержания твёрдых частиц, отлично подходит смазка на полимочевинном комплексе, например, Huskey MP-2 Polyurea Grease.
Good job - I can’t remember if you have to change trans axle bearing seals Go Job 😎
Tuco would love this axel
In the uk we call them driving shafts....
Rubber bits we call constant velocity boots (cv boots)
Also, if you're paying the mechanic $100.+ per hr. It's usually cheaper & safer to install a rebuilt axle
Для трипойда используется другая смазка!!!
По цвету определил? У них в комплекте всегда такая
@@Navigator-Auto да по цвету и консистенции видно что смазка не та
Very good job mr
Hmmm … a new CV axle shaft assembly for my car is about $70. A boot kit for the old shaft is about $20. But I’ll burn up the better part of 30 minutes taking the old shaft apart, cleaning it, reassembling, and applying gobs of grease … only to probably have the joint go bad in 6 months anyway because it already suffered wear due to the compromised old boot letting grease out and grit in. In my mind, way worth the $50 extra to avoid all the extra labor/time and just swap in a new shaft with a warranty that oughta last for years, and be done with it and onto my next project.
Good job Jimmy but hope it was a near new axle.
if it had more than 40k on it (about half it's service life) I would have just bought a new/rebuilt axle. They are a bit laborious to get in and out. If you fix the boot and then 10k later it's clattering you do it over again.
I would NEVER use black grease on my vehicle anywhere. MolyB and Graphite are corrosive to steel.
Anyone doing this use only "white lithium" grease.
Hell used to rebuild cv axels all the time because it was cheaper than a new axle now about the same to just replace them
A new one usually isn't very expensive, Seems like the time and labor for repairing one would be more than it's worth. I'd probably just replace it and be done, with a lifetime warranty
Only cv worth rebooting are 100 series Land Cruisers edit:OEM cv
I would have sprayed that spot with the small hole with brake clean and then applied some RTV. Quick and easy fix.
Last 4 seconds (at "Outside clamp...") I see you have the GRINCH face. 😎
Those are used parts you are refurbishing. I hope you somehow referenced which ball came from which cup along with the ball orientation to the spline. Those parts wear into each other like a matching pair of shoes.
I dont get everyone saying its cheaper to replace the axle in the uk you can buy a universal cv boot for £2.50 that can be fitted with a £40 tool and you dont even need to split the cv joint as the tool stretches the boot over it can be done in less than 20 mins from car pulling in to customer on their way home
grease looked quite a bit different, gonna assume you matched it well
On my wife’s Nissan, it’s a lot less labor to replace the whole CV axle and the new axle is less than $10 more than a new boot.
If its a small hole I'd just slap so rtv on the hole and let it dry
Doesnt usually stick unfortunately as the rubber boot is usually oil based, its a 50/50 chance, believe me I've learnt the hard way
Great job
That's oil! nice upsell plus all that extra labor because you told the customer it's too new and getting a new part is not necessary 😂
Side cutters will snip through the clamps. The grease should be on all the needle bearings plus between 200-400 grams of grease spread evenly in the tracks and boot. That joint is way too dry. Band it clamps are ok but an ear clamp or omega is better.
I thought I hated repacking wheel bearings because grease gets everywhere. Then I redid a CV joint. We have a new number 1!
Disposable gloves my friend, I have a lot of pride for how clean my bearing jobs get done, I love doing em.
@@samaelsandalphon5600 Make a video. I would love to see how it's done neatly.I use gloves, it's still a mess.Use a bearing packer, no difference.
Replacing cv axel boots is like making love to an insane redhead. It's something everyone should do once. But it's simply better practice to replace the damaged article.
Wow a 5/8ths ratchet? That's interesting. Must some type of exclusive UA-cam mechanic tool.
That was some nasty looking new grease
you're supposed to "set" the clamp, after you fold it over, with a dull center punch.
I just buy new axles. But good job Bro..😅
I sell cv shafts and the way you took off the clamp just triggered me
For the price of a new axle Y expend the employee labor to rebuild it. With a new component you get new internals
The boot kits come with a premeasured packet of grease to be packed inside the boot , use it ALL.
And for the cost of the labor charge you could have replaced the whole axle with brand new boots in well over half the time and half the cost.
Sir/ma'am, I'm going to upcharge you without telling you I'm uncharging you. 😁😁😁
That's cool but me personally I can't see fixing one with how cheap they are. A cv axle is what 45 bucks on rock auto
Yes, but not if you want OEM quality.
@1ROAD unfortunately my old blazer I can't even get a GM factory axle if I wanted to. Only thing available worth buying are Cardone and they aren't too bad. But I guess it's case by case but me personally I just order a new one
Where did you get your 5/8th ratchet ?. They must be new.
lol pretty sure those haven't been around for a long time
Maybe it came out when the left handed 10/16 ratchet came out 😆
they used to make them. I have an old proto 5/8" drive socket sitting around
@@kevinogden6854 the made 1/4 3/8 1/2 inch and 3/4. And that's it.
@@Alberthoward3right9up they have not been around for a long time but they definitely made 5/8 drive ratchets. I think around the early to mid 1900s. Snap on made 5/8 drive ratchets and sockets and I want to say they made some other odd size drive ratchets
One question did you burp the boot before you sealed it. Old school in me is just wondering. If you don't it will keep leaking grease if too much air is let into joint.
The boot on a cv axle is not just to keep the grease in it acts as pump moving the grease through the bearings the axle needs far more grease for the boot to pump the grease properly
Nice work
I'm sure he mistook saying GREASE when the correct material to use is PASTE. Proper amount, paste will not 'fling off the thing'.
you might think about lubing it AFTER the snap ring goes on
Covering it in grease is NOT the same as PACKING the bearings WITH Grease. That's a great way to cause a failure due to premature wear.
I used a worm clamp on mine, there was plenty of clearance.
what gave it away !? I am saying that pretty blue new vice as a center piece on his work bench😂& if not that the 5/8 ratchet must have but yeah thts a nice looking vice though
much more grease thts extremely not enough !!
So much easier to just get a entire new cv axle
Only time I did a boot kit was on used cars cause the guy got a deal on these universal boots and any time one had a click we take the axle out and clean it pack it and put a new boot on in most cases they had a year before they start clicking again one or two after a week
You watch the pennies and the dollars will watch them selves the
nicely done, next time be really careful not to have ANY grease on the mating surface of the boot and the CV housing, a little bit can sometimes bite you in the butt.
I like how the ujoint just slides off
The CV grease that is used is the NASTIEST stuff on the planet.
Besides not enough grease also that it should be high temp while your there
Seriously tho…. Don’t put grease on there till done lol.
Idk it's just me but I leave the old greasy in the small areas and just add a bunch of new grease on the joints and inside the boot for good measure lol
Needle bearings need a another grease
Nice work 👍
Ever seen the tool and boots that stretch over joint? Seen it on here a while back. I never replace boots. If im taking it out its getting replaced
The old grease is silvery from the tired needle bearings
Hi, I'm seeing by color of grease that internal CV joint is wrong. That grease in only for external CV joint because of added molybdenum on graphite.
Internal CV joint grease must not contain any additives or small bearings will be dead soon.
What kind of grease do you recommend? Everyone seems to have a different opinion on what to use
@@nzuncovered1845 I'm from Europe. I tried to find something for US. GKN Tripod Joint Grease looks promising. For CV joints with needle bearings.
Nlgi must be low.
No where near enough grease put back in!! I suggest a good molybdenum grease and pack that boot full of it
Could you just smack some rtv on it and put a hose clamp with piece of rubber over it while its still in the car ? My trucks got a little leak, I'm tempted to try