I’m 59, been playing for ever and nobody is going to tell me how to sting a guitar!!! Except....I tried this method and it’s completely awesome, transformed my forever out of tune LP. Thanks for this simple but really effective tip 😊
Tuning problems for LP are not in the tuners. It's the width of the nut and the angle from the nut to the tuner post. I found graphite in the string slots help my LP stay in tune (almost)
@@jeffmorrison5695 mmmm, I've found that with using this method of stringing a LP, and instead of leaving slack for wind, and pulling the slack to hand tension, there is even less tuning issues. Plus better tuners than the shitty Gibson Deluxe machines. I don't even stretch strings anymore, it just takes down maximum clarity and risk of over stretching a particular string making it pop faster than it should. I just play to stretch until they dont go out of tune for about 3 or 4 songs.
I've been playing guitar for 30 years, doing repair work on guitars for 25 years, playing in a band for 15 years, taking care of kids for 10 years, divorced for 2 years, this trick just inspired me to finally get my life together
I've been doing this for 40 years, it works beautifully. The luthier at the shop where I bought my first guitar showed me this and I've used it ever since.
I've been playing since 1861 and have been using this method religiously and I have never had the a guitar go out of tune. In 1895 I tried creating a recognized religion out of this method of guitar stringing, but they tried to burn me as a witch.
@@TeleCaster66 Good point. I have a number of guitars and don't really have tuning problems. Of course they are all Fenders or Fender like. So far no LPs with the G string issue.
I've used this method over 35 years ago, and haven't had to change my strings since. Works great...saved me a lot of money on strings. I may consider buying new strings for its 50th Anniversary.
Are you for real mate?Strings should be changed at least every 6 months or so, otherwise they will just sound dull.You may get away with doing it once a year on an acoustic but an electric guitar will really suffer tone wise!
That's the best way to re-string both an electric and a acoustic guitar. I leave a bit more slack for more winds around the post because on some songs I'll tune down a whole step. Good concise video.
I was hesitant to try this, since I tend to bend alot when I play. I thought the unwound strings would slip, but I was wrong. The strings settle in and stay in tune very quickly after restringing, rather than taking a few days to get stable. This is my go-to method now.
I've been playing for over 40 yrs and I never knew this trick. I even have locking tuners on my Strat and it still would go out of tune. This trick you showed on here has completely fixed my tuning issues...LMAO..I'm almost speechless...Thank you Mr. Russell...we can always learn new things on this incredible instrument !
Best stringing video. I've seen a few with the same technique but just found this one and now I don't think I'll ever forget exactly how to do it easily. I don't change strings often, but when I do I use this method and always realize I'm not sure how much slack or which way to crimp it.
There's a variation on this method where you wind once above the bend in the string and and below after that. This requires about half as much slack again but is completely secure. As mentioned elsewhere in the replies, I also add in about half a fret's worth of slack as I progress to each lighter string to maintain a more consistent 'break' angle over the nut - this on Gibson-style guitars with angled back headstocks.
I have always done this since I started playing guitar 45 years ago. Always thought everybody strung their strings this way! Wild...just the correct way to do it.
I use this technique I restring my mandolin. I do however have two further suggestions. You should cut the string immediately after you've wound it on, unless you're wearing eye protection! You really don't want the end of the string poking you in the eye (or up the nose). That can ruin your whole day. When you cut the string short, it leaves a jagged sharp edge facing outwards upwards from the tuner, with the potential risk of cutting or impaling your fingers at some future time. I cut about 3/4" from the tuner, and then use pliers to fold the cut edge back on itself. Now, there's less chance of your fingers accidentally touching the cut edge of the string and gashing your hand two minutes before you're due to go on stage.
Heads up, if you use a heavier gage string, give yourself waaaaay more slack in the string before you start crimping and winding. The heavier gage strings won’t stretch as much and you won’t have enough string to wind around the peg several times.
I generally use a 3 pegs past the one you are doing the luthier's knot on rule for determining slack. Seems to work well enough. I also like the aesthetic of seeing many winds of string around the peg. Personal preference.
Thanks for this! I've been doing a terrible job changing strings for 25 years! Lol! No more! This is the best explanation of this process that I've been able to find. The guys in the other videos mean well but fall short when faced with providing a clear explanation of the process.
I don't play myself, but used this video to restring my husband's 6-string Epiphone and 7-string Jackson. Both have the tuners on both sides of the heads, so it was a bit of a mind bender for me to do the opposite side with the higher strings. I do more wraps than you, but that's probably personal preference. I watched you bend and wind the first string you did about a hundred times, especially when trying to do the opposite side of the head! Thank you for such clear instructions!
ever since I saw this method, I've tried it and I've loved it...I told my best friend about it too and he tried it out and fell in love with this stringing method too lol thanks Kennis 👍
My guitar tech showed me this method about 40 years ago, and I've used it ever since, followed by stretching the strings until they stay in tune. Pay attention to what you're doing when removing the strings and you won't have a problem with scratching the headstock.
Yea i put my strings on and didn't clip them the other day and put the guitar in the case. What do ya know, scratched part of the gison logo off the headstock. Still upset over it.
For the low E I usually pull the string back from the nut one fret to ensure more of windings. More windings gives a greater downward angle from the nut and give more sustain. There for each string I pull back an additional half fret. This will give you more windings as the strings get thinner.
Kylo - That sounds about right to me! I notice on the video that the sixth string has almost no wrap around the post and is therefore bound to slip constantly.
Thanks for posting this video! I used to use this locking tie but found it difficult to remove the strings from the tuning posts on the fly at a gig. I use a variation on this method now that still locks pretty well but makes string changes much easier. Will post a link for anyone interested in this alternative locking tie.
I do it same way. Only difference is I’ll use the length in-between tuning posts on headstock as my length of slack which usually does right at 2 wraps. With slack, I’ll push down string at entry point of tuning post with Right hand (RH guitar) and bend the string coming out of post straight up so it’s out of way as I use tuner/cutter tool with left hand while still holding down string at entry with RH thumb as I tighten making sure slack string wraps above the string I’m pressing down with thumb on RH. It’s always worked and makes sure all are same tuning tension and length. For high E slack on a strat for instance I’ll use length of my thumb from tip to just past knuckle for guide on slack since no tuning post to reference with. May not be the best, but quick and works for me
I forgot how to do this and had to search for it again. And I will say, from 5 years of experience this way of stringing is the only way for me, because my guitar doesn't go out of tune that much when I leave it for like weeks or so, compared to the normal way people string their guitars. Thanks a lot man ❤.
I’ve been playing for 40 years my guitar teacher taught me this in my first week and have always strung my guitars this way. A good idea is to get 3 turns round the tuning peg particularly if you play a lot in drop tuning. Next time you have your strings off replace any tuners that are worn or have excessive play in the pegs. Thanks for posting this video.
I have started to put my strings on my guitar your way. I had watched your video few months back but forgot to say thanks. Today while stringing my guitar I remembered your video. Thanking you for a great video. Saves me from tuning my guitar over and over again.
Wow! You’re the first guitarist I’ve seen do this even though I’ve been putting my guitar strings on this way since 1969. I learned this from my guitar mentor Bob Coates. The only difference is I would wind the string at least 90° before I slip the string underneath and created a hard bend on it underneath the string wrapping on top of it. I’ve always been tempted to make a video to show this because I’ve never seen another guitar player do this. When I started Shaolin kung fu in 1980 I started breaking strings and even bass strings. Sometimes I’d break up to four strings in one hour show. But my guitar stayed in tune.
Great video. Starting out, I wrapped all sorts of nasty ways. I watched a similar video ages ago and never have done it any other way since. Differences and reasons: 1. I use a small (4") needle nose pliers with diagonal cutters and the same tool you used for faster slack taking up. 2. When setting the string length I do the same, but add about an inch to where I make my first wrap point, then use needle nose to create an initial 90degree crimp (where the crimp is the start around the post). Pulling back with the right hand the string over the neck area (using fingers in such a way as to not crimp the string) so that the bend point then starts the wrap taking up slack with the right hand fingers so it wraps tight. 3. After doing the locking crimp, under and over, I bring the string down along the closest drop off part of the head (so it feeds from there to post, not the nut). I then start taking up slack, still holding some tension with the right hand fingers. This naturally winds the string under as you described. As it gets near tension and I bring it back up onto it's location in the nut. 4. I leave maybe 1/8" to 1/4" of string from the post and using the pliers, cut the extra off (some like the rolled up strings ends, I don't). I then roll the string end over toward the post so it won't poke me or snag on things (I have had both, including blood). Maybe I should make my own video with the differences, but yours works as it is basically the same results except I leave another inch of string wrap around the post. Maybe a video on cleaning and polishing a guitar (you may already have done so, new to your posts). I lived desert SW for years and now in Panama, so sweat on the guitar body a real factor (even with wiping off immediately after).
Just want to add that I play basically exclusively for non-paying venues. My strings have to last because I am paying for them. I don't change every gig so a factor is that they sound as good as possible for as long as possible. Really, If you have been doing it your way, they do it YOUR WAY. I read a few of the discussions and here are some points: 1. bumps as you wind over the locking string - not if you bring it's winding underneath as described. 2. More winds the better: although I think this was addressed, here is my thought - you want as much winding for friction, but not a wadded up over wrapping (like you see when people rewind kite string on a spool) when you have so much you reach the bottom or top of the available post. As little as possible of that is IMHO will reduce other tuning issues(like vibration or tuning causing string to drop). 3. IMHO - best to wear eye protection any time changing strings. I wear glasses so normally not an issue, but last time a treble string snuck under as I was wrangling the string at the beginning of my installing it. Fortunately no lasting issue, but it is possible to "shoot" your eye out. LOL (I probably won't add additional, because glasses help, but i will be more wary) 4. Most of the time fingers are enough, but having the needle nose available (good enough ones so the pliers will grip a #10 or smaller string) will prevent frustrations and blood especially with the Treble's. Essentially, unless you are a Roadie having to do a quantity of guitars every night, take a little more (very little) time to put them on in a better, and more clean looking way (again, IMHO). Again, no reason to get crude in response. All of this is just in Our Humble Opinions. Enjoy.
I've been doing this for over twenty years, since I first started playing guitar. I thought I was pretty clever because I've never heard of anyone else doing it this way, so I'm pleased to see that I'm actually kinda smart. Sometimes......
Indeed I've been also doing it 35 yrs and yes it is called " Gibson Mandolin Stringing method" I learned it from a super cool bluegrass boss martin player
way back in the late 80's I made a huge discovery, do NOT change strings when you are drunk.. I tried and it went great, until I went to cut the excess off and accidently cut the actual string going TO the post.. yeah.. it was funny later. thanks for this video, I like this idea.. :)
Kazahmish I don't change strings drunk because I've poked myself bad on a cut string while sober. One night I jabbed a finger on the cut string that hangs off the tuner on the fifth string of my banjo I kept playing but blood got all over my banjo. Those little pieces of string that hang off the tuners are dangerous.
Been doing it that way for thirty years. The strings still go out, especially on a Les Paul. There's more involved than just a way of putting on strings, but it's the best method I've found...best for Strats.
I tried the String Butler on my Les Paul - works great! Most Gibson style headstocks bind at the nut, especially the 3rd string which you bend a lot. It's due to the angle of the string between the nut and the tuner.
This may just be the best explanation teaching skill tutorial I've ever seen and learned from. I'm gonna do this on my next new string change. Acoustic for me. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🔆🔆
The old luthier's knot knot is for the nylon classical guitar. The lock method for steel strings is 2 machine heads of string slack, 1 wind over the tail and the rest of the winds under the tail.
There is no need to wrap it over the string. When you do this it makes it difficult to unstring your guitar. Just kink it as it "exits" the peg and away you go! Does the same thing as wrapping it around the post but so much easier to remove when installing new strings. Thanks for taking your time to educate so many on much needed skill sets!
When you wrap it over the string the string comes around pressing the string down and locks it down. Your way does not. You are skipping the lock. What I like about this method is that it takes fewer wraps around the peg so speeds it up.
i never comment on videos but man I need t o lose some words for this. Every single time i change my strings (not reguraly) i come back to this video. nowadays too slow but man as a beginner this video is a lifesaver. thank u very much for the video the locks work perfectly for me
Firstly, thanks for the tip, it works great on the wound strings, not so well on the unwound G B & high E strings, these I would pass through the hole twice. Locking tuners are overrated IMHO and if you are having constant tuning problems your nut is usually the culprit, even if perfectly installed and the intonation is set the difference between an open string and a fingered string is huge especially on the G B E strings, try a compensation nut.Another tip is always stretch new strings like an animal and always tune UP to the correct pitch, if you go too far, back off the tuner, stretch, and try again. NEVER tune down to the correct pitch, WHY ? well strings NEVER go sharp they always go flat so the idea is to take up the slack.Not to toot my own horn but I saw early Talking Heads at CBGB's, they were fantastic, their songs were great and David Byrne was electric, he was having a lot of tuning problems and I talked to him on a break and give him this same advice about alwaystuning up to the note, never down, I saw them a couple of weeks later and they sounded great,, David was very gracious and thanked me for the tip. He was an artist not a technician and I'm sure as they became more famous eventually somebody else would have shown him this trick but I'm proud to have played a small part in making a fantastic band sound much better.
If your strings are going sharp, you have too much friction in the nut and/or string trees. The tension from tuning up is "leaking out" too slowly from the headstock side. Stretching the strings helps even things out as does pulling the string out of the slot and rolling it back in. (the plastic nut that came with my first Yamaha acoustic was terrible) Lubricate with a pencil or graphite powder. Also check that your nut slots are the correct width for the gauge string you are using.
When you pass the unwound strings through the hole twice, do you do the first pass above the string or below it? In other words, do you go over then under and crimp it as shown in the video, or do you go under twice then crimp it?
anyone who's played an instrument for any amount of time and hasn't figured out that tuning up to pitch is the only way to tune really hasn't paid much attention to their craft.
I just make sure that the string gets as many coils on the spindle as possible to generate friction.. Also, by wrapping the string until it almost reaches the bottom of the spindle, you get a better angle over your nut, and less lift on the headpiece. Finish by bending the string sharply to the right then tuck it back through the hole and clip it short.
Thank you, bro, I've been trying to play guitar for 30 years, but I could never string it, I would just pull the string through the peg and start turning but it would just keep falling out and I could never get it to any kind of pitch. Now I can finally start learning to actually play. I will recommend this method to all my friends and family.
After all of these years of stringing a guitar it finally dawned on me that I don't have to hold the String Down when first threading it through the Tuner, A capo works real well.
I got a brand new Les Paul way back in '75 and the manual that came with it described THIS method for stringing the guitar. I've been using this method ever since.
I like this way of locking the strings. It really does make a difference. I also like the style of string tree he has. I was having problems with the standard string tree on my telecastor because the string would sometimes bind up at the string tree. After getting the roller type tree like in this video I never had that problem again. I am also considering getting a bridge that has roller saddles for my Les Paul. I seen them online and they look like they would help keep the guitar in tune longer and also maybe help eliminate binding at the saddles. If anyone has tried them, please let me know what you think of them I would really appreciate anyone's input. Btw I thought I was the only one who stresses over if the audience understood what I was I was trying to explain. Because of that I always seem to explain things more than I need to or I will explain it twice, just like this guy did with which way the bend of the strings should be on a 3 + 3 type headstock. I know I do it but it's just something I do and even catch myself doing it. Great minds think alike right! Great video!
Repairers hate this method. It's really hard to get the treble strings off without cutting yourself. You can't take the treble strings off and put them back on again if, for instance, you wanted to change a saddle on a Strat or take the neck off etc. You really have to hack at that folded end with cutters to get them off. You will bleed. This is my experience anyway.
Perhaps use needle-nose pliers to grip the strings instead of your fingers. That should remove the chance of cuts and also allow you to yank on the thinner strings with ease
I's rather cause problems for my repairman (who I see maybe every three years unless I buy a new guitar) than have my strings slipping every day. Anyway, just do the first 2 or 3 (plain) strings
I bought a cheap epiphone acoustic starter pack from a music store, came with a booklet with this method of restringing. Lots of people don’t know about this, people I’ve shown thought I was doing it wrong
More than 40 years for me as with the guy below. Bought a guitar that had the strings attached this way. The only way to eliminate slippage in an "average" restring. Assuming you don't have locking tuners, etc.
I've been using this method on all my guitars as well since i started playing.. the way i remember in which direction I have to bend the string is (at least on my guitars): always towards the logo: on the Fenders the logo is at the bottom (so all strings are bent clockwise and then locked), and with Gibson, PRS and others that have the tuners on both sides, the logo is usually in the center, so 3 go clockwise, 3 go counter-clockwise.. works on over 99% of guitars, even most with a reversed headstock.. (some few exceptions may apply)
I was taught to do it this way as a kid and have done it ever since. It works like locking tuners only less likely to slip or break. Takes a little extra time to take the string off and not prick your finger on the end, and the time it takes when putting strings on once you know what you're doing is maybe 30 seconds for a string change on a 12 string.
You did a good video, slow, well explained, and good close examples. Especially helpful on the smallest strings. Many toot their horn, but don't properly teach the subject.
Nice video, straight to the point but with enough detail. I've been changing out my guitar strings for years, (definitely not as often as I should be though) but always like to watch a video for a refresher, just in case.
In 2020 you're a life saver! I have this incredible (for the price) Epiphone Slash Firebird that feels like it was built for me. My hands, my built, you name it...but for 6 months it hasn't stayed in tune. Well, thanks to you, I played for 4 hours last night without any significant adjustment to tuning! I was afraid I'd have to abandon the reverse kluson banjo tuners it came with for something far less cool looking. Thanks!
It's a very interesting technique, thank you for sharing it. My only concern is about the thinner strings (specially E and B). The angle they are "folded" seems to be very acute, and I was wondering if that could make those strings more prone to break...
I just ran across this video and had to smile at myself after thinking back from the time I was around 12 until I was probably close to 40 years old (now 65) when I learned this method of stringing a guitar...I used so many different wraps and knots....lol. The introduction of the worldwide web and a few guitar forums solved that little piece of ignorance in my life, and so simply. This technique is tried and absolutely true. 👍👍
Hi Kennis. I’m not disagreeing, but wanted your thoughts on this: I was told long ago that winding strings using this wrap-over technique weakens the string and makes it more likely to break at the post. So instead I wrap with an under-over pattern. First I put a kink in the string so the cut-off excess is bent in the opposite direction, then I wind one full turn under the cut end, then when it reaches the cut-end again I start winding over for the remaining 2 or 3 turns. This squeezes the string between windings rather than compressing it by winding across it.
In 44 years of playing, I've never met anyone else who does it like this. Someone showed me this way to change strings in 1976 when I started playing. I never forgot it because it's so easy and it works like a charm. Meanwhile, I show every one of my students how to do it and they never remember it. Aaaaaa, kids these days! Some people put it through this hole, then around a few times, through that hole, etc. Sheeeesh! Takes forever to get those strings off. THIS way, you detune the string enough and it all falls apart and comes right off!
I had a different technique that was not as reliable and such a pain to get right but it worked great. Your method is even better and simpler, and faster to string. Thanks for the video.
Tried this method since I was tired of the nuisance of estimating slack and then winding it up. Never had much issue with slip in the first place and I still dont using this process but this method shaved about half the time off my string changes which I'll always accept happily. Less time fiddling with stuff, more time playing WOO!
Awesome! My restring time was cut in half! Before, my strings kept slipping as I wound them, but this method prevents that, and gives you the perfect amount of string on the peg for most standard tunings. Got my new NYXL 10s on with no problems at all! Props!
BOFADEEZ I think that is correct. The strings excert a lot of pressure on the neck, 600 lbs I think. So going from that to 0 and back again repeatedly over the life of the guitar is probably not good.
Thats BS I have 34 + yrs as a Band and session Guitarist . I remove All the old strings and replace tune , intonate if needed . Guitars are built to withstand these stresses . Never heard of another guitarist having a problem . Don't know where these rumors get started ??
Kennis Russell Why are you worried about taking them off? If you are changing the strings (only reason I can see for taking them off) then just cut the damn things with a wire cutter. Then you can just peel them off the posts with the tip of the same tool. Use the cutters to trim the new strings. Ta-da! Done.
Having changed this type many, many times, it doesn't cause myself issues. To be clear, I release most of the tension first using the winding tool, then cut near the post (tension reduces the risk of injury, most important the eyes, or to the instrument). Using my 4" needle nose cutting pliers I keep in my tool kit, allows me not to get bloody grabbing a sharp string end (of course with the easier strings, I just use my fingers). Guitar tool kit: screwdriver (phillips#2), nut driver (for tuners nut); 4" Diagonal cutting-Needle nose pliers; 4" adjustable wrench (for tightening Straplocks and whatever else); lock tight blue; and a winding tool (I have bass, guitar , and a smaller head one for mandolin). You might need additional tools for guitar differences. I usually use string changing for guitar cleaning and preventative maintenance. I need a little more since i have Bass, Guitar (acoustic and electric), and Mandolin in my repertoire (if my wife would let me I would add more like a banjo, LOL). No, I am not a professional (so I have to get by with less guitar choices and be more efficient), but being on different worship teams (and leading some) over the last couple of decades I have learned to become flexible to be able to both add something, or fill in for a regular player.
The problem that can arise with this method is when a string breaks during a show it takes longer to get the string off and a new one back on quickly. As a repair person I change dozen of sets of strings a week. I promise you that strings properly installed with no slack, proper tension, flat to the post, and at the proper angle, will stay in tune after string stretching. If they don't there is a problem with the tuner, nut, bridge, or tailpiece/tremolo. @@margiedelay1716
Just commenting to say thank you. Re-stringing has always been frustrating and hit or miss, for me. Never quite could get it right where everything was symmetrical and stayed in tune. The results I'm getting already are excellent. Appreciate your help
@@buffalosteve287 he acts like it's a major thing. Never let your drunk friend tune your guitar, he may go sharp. Then your done for. Haha lol. Might have to learn to do it yourself lol
Wow. I have a pack of D'Addario nyxl 10-46 and I just put the low E on there went through then under then back over and I tightened it a little bit and then when I went to stretch the string that fucking snapped where you said to bend it over the string. Unbelievable. A pack of $12 strings.
I’m 59, been playing for ever and nobody is going to tell me how to sting a guitar!!! Except....I tried this method and it’s completely awesome, transformed my forever out of tune LP. Thanks for this simple but really effective tip 😊
Tuning problems for LP are not in the tuners. It's the width of the nut and the angle from the nut to the tuner post. I found graphite in the string slots help my LP stay in tune (almost)
Kinda had me in the first half, not gonna lie
@@jeffmorrison5695 mmmm, I've found that with using this method of stringing a LP, and instead of leaving slack for wind, and pulling the slack to hand tension, there is even less tuning issues. Plus better tuners than the shitty Gibson Deluxe machines. I don't even stretch strings anymore, it just takes down maximum clarity and risk of over stretching a particular string making it pop faster than it should. I just play to stretch until they dont go out of tune for about 3 or 4 songs.
I've been playing guitar for 30 years, doing repair work on guitars for 25 years, playing in a band for 15 years, taking care of kids for 10 years, divorced for 2 years, this trick just inspired me to finally get my life together
I've been doing this for 40 years, it works beautifully.
The luthier at the shop where I bought my first guitar showed me this and I've used it ever since.
I didn't even realize there was any other way to do it.
I've never heard of this method of restringing until now, but I shall use it from now on
@@devonhamler2055 #metoo :)
I've been playing since 1861 and have been using this method religiously and I have never had the a guitar go out of tune. In 1895 I tried creating a recognized religion out of this method of guitar stringing, but they tried to burn me as a witch.
I worked as a roadie for Mozart and I used this method to string his piano all the time
Wow, you're very old!
Reading this at 2:30 am, you guys made me laugh more than tik tok!
Haha
To be right too early is like being wrong ...
Ive been using this method for 97 years, its really quite effective!
Ive been playing the guitar for 45 years never learned this trick. Thank you very much!
But have you ever needed to do this to keep your guitar in tune? This certainly doesn't hurt but I've yet to find it necessary in 40 years of playing.
Me too. Really useful tip.
@@TeleCaster66 Good point. I have a number of guitars and don't really have tuning problems. Of course they are all Fenders or Fender like. So far no LPs with the G string issue.
@@TeleCaster66 Me also!!
I've used this method over 35 years ago, and haven't had to change my strings since. Works great...saved me a lot of money on strings. I may consider buying new strings for its 50th Anniversary.
Are you for real mate?Strings should be changed at least every 6 months or so, otherwise they will just sound dull.You may get away with doing it once a year on an acoustic but an electric guitar will really suffer tone wise!
That's the best way to re-string both an electric and a acoustic guitar. I leave a bit more slack for more winds around the post because on some songs I'll tune down a whole step. Good concise video.
I do less slack than in the video still able to tune down on drop d flat.
I use this method for a couple of years and confirm it is a huge improvement in tuning stability.
I've used this method for almost 30 years and never had a string slip. Couldn't recommend this method more.
Thanks for the great explanation, Kennis.
I was hesitant to try this, since I tend to bend alot when I play. I thought the unwound strings would slip, but I was wrong. The strings settle in and stay in tune very quickly after restringing, rather than taking a few days to get stable. This is my go-to method now.
Since I used this method, I never used the nutlocks on my ibanez. stays in tune even with relatively big dive bombs.
What ??? Wow I don't know if you're serious or joking
Yes
Do you have a Floyd
Even better if you use a tusq xl or black tusq (self-lubricating) nut and rolling saddles.
I've been playing for over 40 yrs and I never knew this trick. I even have locking tuners on my Strat and it still would go out of tune. This trick you showed on here has completely fixed my tuning issues...LMAO..I'm almost speechless...Thank you Mr. Russell...we can always learn new things on this incredible instrument !
It’s called a luthier’s knot, used by millions of guitarists since the beginning of time
Thanks for closing in on this part. A lot of videos don’t show this detail, and it’s where I’ve struggled. Thanks for talking through the 3x3’s, too.
I like that idea. I was toying with buying some locking tuners (which are expensive) and decided to try this & it works. Thanks Kennis....
We have same plan.. hehe thanks to this
Best stringing video. I've seen a few with the same technique but just found this one and now I don't think I'll ever forget exactly how to do it easily. I don't change strings often, but when I do I use this method and always realize I'm not sure how much slack or which way to crimp it.
There's a variation on this method where you wind once above the bend in the string and and below after that. This requires about half as much slack again but is completely secure. As mentioned elsewhere in the replies, I also add in about half a fret's worth of slack as I progress to each lighter string to maintain a more consistent 'break' angle over the nut - this on Gibson-style guitars with angled back headstocks.
This is the method I use, and you are correct. No slippage.
I have always done this since I started playing guitar 45 years ago. Always thought everybody strung their strings this way! Wild...just the correct way to do it.
Look up Phillip McKnight's video on locking string wraps, there are several different styles.
I use this technique I restring my mandolin. I do however have two further suggestions. You should cut the string immediately after you've wound it on, unless you're wearing eye protection! You really don't want the end of the string poking you in the eye (or up the nose). That can ruin your whole day.
When you cut the string short, it leaves a jagged sharp edge facing outwards upwards from the tuner, with the potential risk of cutting or impaling your fingers at some future time. I cut about 3/4" from the tuner, and then use pliers to fold the cut edge back on itself. Now, there's less chance of your fingers accidentally touching the cut edge of the string and gashing your hand two minutes before you're due to go on stage.
Accidents happen, but an ounce of common sense can stop things getting worse.
Mandolinic couldn't you wind over the string and down? then no jagged edges sticking up
If you cut the strings at a 90° angle the edges aren't sharp enough to cut you.
+George Hypotenuse and the Triangles
My bloodied fingers and scraped knuckles attest otherwise ;-)
I know people who dont cut the string ends off at all. That's much more dangerous and looks stupid.
Heads up, if you use a heavier gage string, give yourself waaaaay more slack in the string before you start crimping and winding. The heavier gage strings won’t stretch as much and you won’t have enough string to wind around the peg several times.
I generally use a 3 pegs past the one you are doing the luthier's knot on rule for determining slack. Seems to work well enough. I also like the aesthetic of seeing many winds of string around the peg. Personal preference.
I cut my high E a bit short and it wasnt winding enough, you just salvaged the whole thing, thank you!
Thanks for this! I've been doing a terrible job changing strings for 25 years! Lol! No more! This is the best explanation of this process that I've been able to find. The guys in the other videos mean well but fall short when faced with providing a clear explanation of the process.
I don't play myself, but used this video to restring my husband's 6-string Epiphone and 7-string Jackson. Both have the tuners on both sides of the heads, so it was a bit of a mind bender for me to do the opposite side with the higher strings. I do more wraps than you, but that's probably personal preference. I watched you bend and wind the first string you did about a hundred times, especially when trying to do the opposite side of the head! Thank you for such clear instructions!
ohh the sound of the strings being cut
*Nck*
Peter Bodzak especially if your watchinh with headphones,ouch.
ASMR
So satisfying lol
That's what it sounds like when I cut my toenails
ever since I saw this method, I've tried it and I've loved it...I told my best friend about it too and he tried it out and fell in love with this stringing method too lol thanks Kennis 👍
My guitar tech showed me this method about 40 years ago, and I've used it ever since, followed by stretching the strings until they stay in tune. Pay attention to what you're doing when removing the strings and you won't have a problem with scratching the headstock.
Yea i put my strings on and didn't clip them the other day and put the guitar in the case. What do ya know, scratched part of the gison logo off the headstock. Still upset over it.
For the low E I usually pull the string back from the nut one fret to ensure more of windings. More windings gives a greater downward angle from the nut and give more sustain. There for each string I pull back an additional half fret. This will give you more windings as the strings get thinner.
Kylo Ken wow that sounds good. But will that mean 3.5 frets back for the high E?
Kylo - That sounds about right to me! I notice on the video that the sixth string has almost no wrap around the post and is therefore bound to slip constantly.
Likewise, keeps a more consistent 'break' angle on the strings too.
@@makaras Yes, that's about right.
A no frills but highly effective tutorial that works!! My go-to refresher every time I restring.
BLESS YOU, YOU WONDERFUL WONDERFUL MAN! I broke two high e strings before this video and I finally fixed my guitar. Thank you so much.
Learned this in the 90s from a Joe Walsh VHS....old school locking lol
That exactly the same way I first heard about this technique !
Me too👍
Great player - but nobody ever said Joe Walsh was a genius...
DH Glad to see i’m not the only one that gets annoyed by pointless “LOL‘s”
Thanks for posting this video! I used to use this locking tie but found it difficult to remove the strings from the tuning posts on the fly at a gig. I use a variation on this method now that still locks pretty well but makes string changes much easier. Will post a link for anyone interested in this alternative locking tie.
I do it same way. Only difference is I’ll use the length in-between tuning posts on headstock as my length of slack which usually does right at 2 wraps. With slack, I’ll push down string at entry point of tuning post with Right hand (RH guitar) and bend the string coming out of post straight up so it’s out of way as I use tuner/cutter tool with left hand while still holding down string at entry with RH thumb as I tighten making sure slack string wraps above the string I’m pressing down with thumb on RH. It’s always worked and makes sure all are same tuning tension and length. For high E slack on a strat for instance I’ll use length of my thumb from tip to just past knuckle for guide on slack since no tuning post to reference with. May not be the best, but quick and works for me
The best method. This really makes a difference.
C.F. Martin taught me this in the 1980s. It really helps holding tune.
I forgot how to do this and had to search for it again. And I will say, from 5 years of experience this way of stringing is the only way for me, because my guitar doesn't go out of tune that much when I leave it for like weeks or so, compared to the normal way people string their guitars. Thanks a lot man ❤.
I’ve been playing for 40 years my guitar teacher taught me this in my first week and have always strung my guitars this way.
A good idea is to get 3 turns round the tuning peg particularly if you play a lot in drop tuning.
Next time you have your strings off replace any tuners that are worn or have excessive play in the pegs.
Thanks for posting this video.
I have started to put my strings on my guitar your way. I had watched your video few months back but forgot to say thanks. Today while stringing my guitar I remembered your video.
Thanking you for a great video. Saves me from tuning my guitar over and over again.
Wow! You’re the first guitarist I’ve seen do this even though I’ve been putting my guitar strings on this way since 1969. I learned this from my guitar mentor Bob Coates. The only difference is I would wind the string at least 90° before I slip the string underneath and created a hard bend on it underneath the string wrapping on top of it. I’ve always been tempted to make a video to show this because I’ve never seen another guitar player do this. When I started Shaolin kung fu in 1980 I started breaking strings and even bass strings. Sometimes I’d break up to four strings in one hour show. But my guitar stayed in tune.
What a nightmare
What does Kung fu have to do with guitar what bro??
@@nekrohatred9547 Some Martial Artists break boards or concrete blocks. Evidently his particular style breaks strings
I thought everybody did this! I learned this 40 years ago when I built dulcimers!! It works great!
Great video. Starting out, I wrapped all sorts of nasty ways. I watched a similar video ages ago and never have done it any other way since. Differences and reasons:
1. I use a small (4") needle nose pliers with diagonal cutters and the same tool you used for faster slack taking up.
2. When setting the string length I do the same, but add about an inch to where I make my first wrap point, then use needle nose to create an initial 90degree crimp (where the crimp is the start around the post). Pulling back with the right hand the string over the neck area (using fingers in such a way as to not crimp the string) so that the bend point then starts the wrap taking up slack with the right hand fingers so it wraps tight.
3. After doing the locking crimp, under and over, I bring the string down along the closest drop off part of the head (so it feeds from there to post, not the nut). I then start taking up slack, still holding some tension with the right hand fingers. This naturally winds the string under as you described. As it gets near tension and I bring it back up onto it's location in the nut.
4. I leave maybe 1/8" to 1/4" of string from the post and using the pliers, cut the extra off (some like the rolled up strings ends, I don't). I then roll the string end over toward the post so it won't poke me or snag on things (I have had both, including blood).
Maybe I should make my own video with the differences, but yours works as it is basically the same results except I leave another inch of string wrap around the post.
Maybe a video on cleaning and polishing a guitar (you may already have done so, new to your posts). I lived desert SW for years and now in Panama, so sweat on the guitar body a real factor (even with wiping off immediately after).
Just want to add that I play basically exclusively for non-paying venues. My strings have to last because I am paying for them. I don't change every gig so a factor is that they sound as good as possible for as long as possible.
Really, If you have been doing it your way, they do it YOUR WAY. I read a few of the discussions and here are some points:
1. bumps as you wind over the locking string - not if you bring it's winding underneath as described.
2. More winds the better: although I think this was addressed, here is my thought - you want as much winding for friction, but not a wadded up over wrapping (like you see when people rewind kite string on a spool) when you have so much you reach the bottom or top of the available post. As little as possible of that is IMHO will reduce other tuning issues(like vibration or tuning causing string to drop).
3. IMHO - best to wear eye protection any time changing strings. I wear glasses so normally not an issue, but last time a treble string snuck under as I was wrangling the string at the beginning of my installing it. Fortunately no lasting issue, but it is possible to "shoot" your eye out. LOL (I probably won't add additional, because glasses help, but i will be more wary)
4. Most of the time fingers are enough, but having the needle nose available (good enough ones so the pliers will grip a #10 or smaller string) will prevent frustrations and blood especially with the Treble's.
Essentially, unless you are a Roadie having to do a quantity of guitars every night, take a little more (very little) time to put them on in a better, and more clean looking way (again, IMHO).
Again, no reason to get crude in response. All of this is just in Our Humble Opinions. Enjoy.
I've been doing this for over twenty years, since I first started playing guitar. I thought I was pretty clever because I've never heard of anyone else doing it this way, so I'm pleased to see that I'm actually kinda smart. Sometimes......
Indeed I've been also doing it 35 yrs and yes it is called " Gibson Mandolin Stringing method" I learned it from a super cool bluegrass boss martin player
way back in the late 80's I made a huge discovery, do NOT change strings when you are drunk.. I tried and it went great, until I went to cut the excess off and accidently cut the actual string going TO the post.. yeah.. it was funny later. thanks for this video, I like this idea.. :)
Done that too ...but not even drunk :-)
lmao!
Kazahmish I don't change strings drunk because I've poked myself bad on a cut string while sober. One night I jabbed a finger on the cut string that hangs off the tuner on the fifth string of my banjo I kept playing but blood got all over my banjo. Those little pieces of string that hang off the tuners are dangerous.
been there lol
Kazahmish Let's start a band....
Thank you this is very helpful. I'm glad there are people like you who want to help the rest of us. Well done
Been doing it that way for thirty years. The strings still go out, especially on a Les Paul. There's more involved than just a way of putting on strings, but it's the best method I've found...best for Strats.
I tried the String Butler on my Les Paul - works great! Most Gibson style headstocks bind at the nut, especially the 3rd string which you bend a lot. It's due to the angle of the string between the nut and the tuner.
This may just be the best explanation teaching skill tutorial I've ever seen and learned from. I'm gonna do this on my next new string change. Acoustic for me. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🔆🔆
The old luthier's knot knot is for the nylon classical guitar. The lock method for steel strings is 2 machine heads of string slack, 1 wind over the tail and the rest of the winds under the tail.
There is no need to wrap it over the string. When you do this it makes it difficult to unstring your guitar. Just kink it as it "exits" the peg and away you go! Does the same thing as wrapping it around the post but so much easier to remove when installing new strings.
Thanks for taking your time to educate so many on much needed skill sets!
When you wrap it over the string the string comes around pressing the string down and locks it down. Your way does not. You are skipping the lock. What I like about this method is that it takes fewer wraps around the peg so speeds it up.
i never comment on videos but man I need t o lose some words for this. Every single time i change my strings (not reguraly) i come back to this video. nowadays too slow but man as a beginner this video is a lifesaver. thank u very much for the video the locks work perfectly for me
Cool technique - I will definitely give this a try. So nice to watch a video that is helpful, clear, and to-the-point. Thanks.
Great Video. I Agree with you . . . on the Roller String Trees. Makes a Huge Difference in Tuning Stability = No Comparison
Firstly, thanks for the tip, it works great on the wound strings, not so well on the unwound G B & high E strings, these I would pass through the hole twice. Locking tuners are overrated IMHO and if you are having constant tuning problems your nut is usually the culprit, even if perfectly installed and the intonation is set the difference between an open string and a fingered string is huge especially on the G B E strings, try a compensation nut.Another tip is always stretch new strings like an animal and always tune UP to the correct pitch, if you go too far, back off the tuner, stretch, and try again. NEVER tune down to the correct pitch, WHY ? well strings NEVER go sharp they always go flat so the idea is to take up the slack.Not to toot my own horn but I saw early Talking Heads at CBGB's, they were fantastic, their songs were great and David Byrne was electric, he was having a lot of tuning problems and I talked to him on a break and give him this same advice about alwaystuning up to the note, never down, I saw them a couple of weeks later and they sounded great,, David was very gracious and thanked me for the tip. He was an artist not a technician and I'm sure as they became more famous eventually somebody else would have shown him this trick but I'm proud to have played a small part in making a fantastic band sound much better.
"Never go sharp" huh? Explain that one to my mandolin.
I'm gonna try this, I think someone told me to do this a long time ago, but I never did it.
If your strings are going sharp, you have too much friction in the nut and/or string trees. The tension from tuning up is "leaking out" too slowly from the headstock side. Stretching the strings helps even things out as does pulling the string out of the slot and rolling it back in. (the plastic nut that came with my first Yamaha acoustic was terrible) Lubricate with a pencil or graphite powder. Also check that your nut slots are the correct width for the gauge string you are using.
SuperStig23 works great on unwound strings if you're precise! only method I've used since '80! Never failed yet!!!
When you pass the unwound strings through the hole twice, do you do the first pass above the string or below it? In other words, do you go over then under and crimp it as shown in the video, or do you go under twice then crimp it?
anyone who's played an instrument for any amount of time and hasn't figured out that tuning up to pitch is the only way to tune really hasn't paid much attention to their craft.
I did this when I was younger, now wanted to remember how it's done but non of the top video's mentioned it, so thank you!
Nothing beats the open Fender tuners , easy on easy off !
I just make sure that the string gets as many coils on the spindle as possible to generate friction.. Also, by wrapping the string until it almost reaches the bottom of the spindle, you get a better angle over your nut, and less lift on the headpiece. Finish by bending the string sharply to the right then tuck it back through the hole and clip it short.
Thank you, bro, I've been trying to play guitar for 30 years, but I could never string it, I would just pull the string through the peg and start turning but it would just keep falling out and I could never get it to any kind of pitch. Now I can finally start learning to actually play. I will recommend this method to all my friends and family.
After all of these years of stringing a guitar it finally dawned on me that I don't have to hold the String Down when first threading it through the Tuner, A capo works real well.
*That* is a great tip!
Cool, gonna have to try this when I change strings again
I got a brand new Les Paul way back in '75 and the manual that came with it described THIS method for stringing the guitar.
I've been using this method ever since.
And then there's "The B.B. METHOD." Watching B.B. change out a broken string on stage is pure artistry.
I like this way of locking the strings. It really does make a difference. I also like the style of string tree he has. I was having problems with the standard string tree on my telecastor because the string would sometimes bind up at the string tree. After getting the roller type tree like in this video I never had that problem again. I am also considering getting a bridge that has roller saddles for my Les Paul. I seen them online and they look like they would help keep the guitar in tune longer and also maybe help eliminate binding at the saddles. If anyone has tried them, please let me know what you think of them I would really appreciate anyone's input.
Btw I thought I was the only one who stresses over if the audience understood what I was I was trying to explain. Because of that I always seem to explain things more than I need to or I will explain it twice, just like this guy did with which way the bend of the strings should be on a 3 + 3 type headstock. I know I do it but it's just something I do and even catch myself doing it. Great minds think alike right! Great video!
Repairers hate this method. It's really hard to get the treble strings off without cutting yourself. You can't take the treble strings off and put them back on again if, for instance, you wanted to change a saddle on a Strat or take the neck off etc. You really have to hack at that folded end with cutters to get them off. You will bleed. This is my experience anyway.
Perhaps use needle-nose pliers to grip the strings instead of your fingers. That should remove the chance of cuts and also allow you to yank on the thinner strings with ease
I's rather cause problems for my repairman (who I see maybe every three years unless I buy a new guitar) than have my strings slipping every day. Anyway, just do the first 2 or 3 (plain) strings
I bought a cheap epiphone acoustic starter pack from a music store, came with a booklet with this method of restringing. Lots of people don’t know about this, people I’ve shown thought I was doing it wrong
More than 40 years for me as with the guy below. Bought a guitar that had the strings attached this way. The only way to eliminate slippage in an "average" restring. Assuming you don't have locking tuners, etc.
I've been using this method on all my guitars as well since i started playing..
the way i remember in which direction I have to bend the string is (at least on my guitars): always towards the logo: on the Fenders the logo is at the bottom (so all strings are bent clockwise and then locked), and with Gibson, PRS and others that have the tuners on both sides, the logo is usually in the center, so 3 go clockwise, 3 go counter-clockwise..
works on over 99% of guitars, even most with a reversed headstock.. (some few exceptions may apply)
Nice.
Gonna try that next time
I was taught to do it this way as a kid and have done it ever since. It works like locking tuners only less likely to slip or break. Takes a little extra time to take the string off and not prick your finger on the end, and the time it takes when putting strings on once you know what you're doing is maybe 30 seconds for a string change on a 12 string.
I thought there was some "fancy" method I wasn't aware of lol...this is the way I was taught in '77...
This is the best tutorial on how to put strings on a fender electric guitar on UA-cam. No discussion about it. Thanks man!
You did a good video, slow, well explained, and good close examples. Especially helpful on the smallest strings. Many toot their horn, but don't properly teach the subject.
Nice video, straight to the point but with enough detail. I've been changing out my guitar strings for years, (definitely not as often as I should be though) but always like to watch a video for a refresher, just in case.
In 2020 you're a life saver! I have this incredible (for the price) Epiphone Slash Firebird that feels like it was built for me. My hands, my built, you name it...but for 6 months it hasn't stayed in tune. Well, thanks to you, I played for 4 hours last night without any significant adjustment to tuning! I was afraid I'd have to abandon the reverse kluson banjo tuners it came with for something far less cool looking. Thanks!
Thank you for demonstrating this, perfectly clear in explanation, glad you took the time to record and show this. Seeing it done, so helpful
Your explanation was absolutely maddening!
It's a very interesting technique, thank you for sharing it. My only concern is about the thinner strings (specially E and B). The angle they are "folded" seems to be very acute, and I was wondering if that could make those strings more prone to break...
Exactly yes, it happens
I just ran across this video and had to smile at myself after thinking back from the time I was around 12 until I was probably close to 40 years old (now 65) when I learned this method of stringing a guitar...I used so many different wraps and knots....lol. The introduction of the worldwide web and a few guitar forums solved that little piece of ignorance in my life, and so simply. This technique is tried and absolutely true. 👍👍
Hi Kennis. I’m not disagreeing, but wanted your thoughts on this: I was told long ago that winding strings using this wrap-over technique weakens the string and makes it more likely to break at the post. So instead I wrap with an under-over pattern. First I put a kink in the string so the cut-off excess is bent in the opposite direction, then I wind one full turn under the cut end, then when it reaches the cut-end again I start winding over for the remaining 2 or 3 turns. This squeezes the string between windings rather than compressing it by winding across it.
This is how
I have always done mine.
In 44 years of playing, I've never met anyone else who does it like this. Someone showed me this way to change strings in 1976 when I started playing. I never forgot it because it's so easy and it works like a charm. Meanwhile, I show every one of my students how to do it and they never remember it. Aaaaaa, kids these days! Some people put it through this hole, then around a few times, through that hole, etc. Sheeeesh! Takes forever to get those strings off. THIS way, you detune the string enough and it all falls apart and comes right off!
Been doing it for 40 years, thought everybody was doing it this way lol
I had a different technique that was not as reliable and such a pain to get right but it worked great. Your method is even better and simpler, and faster to string. Thanks for the video.
My Guitar teacher taught me this method in 1974
Tried this method since I was tired of the nuisance of estimating slack and then winding it up. Never had much issue with slip in the first place and I still dont using this process but this method shaved about half the time off my string changes which I'll always accept happily. Less time fiddling with stuff, more time playing WOO!
6:32, the MOST IMPORTANT part of this video, Cut the darn strings off!
Awesome! My restring time was cut in half! Before, my strings kept slipping as I wound them, but this method prevents that, and gives you the perfect amount of string on the peg for most standard tunings. Got my new NYXL 10s on with no problems at all! Props!
Been doing this for 120 years, I thought everyone knew about this.
I've been doing it for 121 years.
I invented man
@@hoverboard-xz6my I invented hoverboards
the ones that kids have nowadays? or the ones from Back to The Future 2?
@@hoverboard-xz6my Hahahaha killed me
Ive been playing for 20 years and never seen this method, I about to try this right now. Thanks great video!
Thank you for taking the old strings off first before you shot the video ha ha
And speeding up the winding
Thanks for sharing. I will try this later
Didn't know Blake Shelton made UA-cam videos until now
cutting the excess string at the end is always so satisfying
Isn't this the way *Dave Lee* used to do when setting up *John Frusciante's* strats?
nope
@@Vespa123 then where can I find where he did?
@@levijessegonzalez3629 ua-cam.com/video/aud9atBS8j8/v-deo.html here it is
Best re-string video on YT in my book. Simple, great explanation, and great video. Thanks!
I’ve always thought that you only take off and replace 1 at a time?
BOFADEEZ I think that is correct. The strings excert a lot of pressure on the neck, 600 lbs I think. So going from that to 0 and back again repeatedly over the life of the guitar is probably not good.
Only with Floyd Rose type of guitars
Thats BS I have 34 + yrs as a Band and session Guitarist . I remove All the old strings and replace tune , intonate if needed . Guitars are built to withstand these stresses . Never heard of another guitarist having a problem . Don't know where these rumors get started ??
Boo Boo - I was told that many years ago and I've always stuck with that advice.
It was an old wives tale for neck through body type guitars is how I heard it told. Lol Cut em all off so you can clean the axe properly.
Thanks for the bonus tip on the spinning string tree ! Just purchased one for my G&L Doheny.
an absolute pig to get the unwound strings off, I would not use this method.
Kennis Russell Why are you worried about taking them off? If you are changing the strings (only reason I can see for taking them off) then just cut the damn things with a wire cutter. Then you can just peel them off the posts with the tip of the same tool. Use the cutters to trim the new strings. Ta-da! Done.
Margie Delay thats bad for the bridge and the neck because of the unevrn tension
Having changed this type many, many times, it doesn't cause myself issues. To be clear, I release most of the tension first using the winding tool, then cut near the post (tension reduces the risk of injury, most important the eyes, or to the instrument). Using my 4" needle nose cutting pliers I keep in my tool kit, allows me not to get bloody grabbing a sharp string end (of course with the easier strings, I just use my fingers).
Guitar tool kit: screwdriver (phillips#2), nut driver (for tuners nut); 4" Diagonal cutting-Needle nose pliers; 4" adjustable wrench (for tightening Straplocks and whatever else); lock tight blue; and a winding tool (I have bass, guitar , and a smaller head one for mandolin). You might need additional tools for guitar differences. I usually use string changing for guitar cleaning and preventative maintenance. I need a little more since i have Bass, Guitar (acoustic and electric), and Mandolin in my repertoire (if my wife would let me I would add more like a banjo, LOL).
No, I am not a professional (so I have to get by with less guitar choices and be more efficient), but being on different worship teams (and leading some) over the last couple of decades I have learned to become flexible to be able to both add something, or fill in for a regular player.
The problem that can arise with this method is when a string breaks during a show it takes longer to get the string off and a new one back on quickly. As a repair person I change dozen of sets of strings a week. I promise you that strings properly installed with no slack, proper tension, flat to the post, and at the proper angle, will stay in tune after string stretching. If they don't there is a problem with the tuner, nut, bridge, or tailpiece/tremolo. @@margiedelay1716
Just commenting to say thank you. Re-stringing has always been frustrating and hit or miss, for me. Never quite could get it right where everything was symmetrical and stayed in tune. The results I'm getting already are excellent. Appreciate your help
I learnt never to let your drunk friend no matter how convincing he is to tune in your new strings.
"tune in"
Mike Yurchison right?
@@buffalosteve287 lol
@@buffalosteve287 he acts like it's a major thing. Never let your drunk friend tune your guitar, he may go sharp. Then your done for. Haha lol. Might have to learn to do it yourself lol
Seen this on my Martin guitar that I bought last year. Been playing for 20 years and I just now found out about it. Better late than never.
I played for 20 years before I knew too.
Wow. I have a pack of D'Addario nyxl 10-46 and I just put the low E on there went through then under then back over and I tightened it a little bit and then when I went to stretch the string that fucking snapped where you said to bend it over the string. Unbelievable. A pack of $12 strings.
Must have been a faulty string dude, it happens, maybe they were old, or you did something wrong. I have never snapped a string using this method.
@@juffurey yeah doesn't matter anymore, I bought hipshot locking tuners for all my guitars lol
Thanks for that. I’ve been playing for years and this is a super tip I’ve missed. God bless you brother.