Installing Board and Batten Siding on Fox Block ICF Wall
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2023
- This week, we are making progress on the house! We are siding the Fox Block forms with board and batten, and the wood is milled from the trees off our property!
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Good job! Children workshop is priceless!!!!!!
good progress and glad to see the siding going up
That is so awesome! Nice work, all of you!
Nice job once again you guys!!
The siding looks wonderful and who doesn't love a good half price planting!! I'm working on fruit and medicinal plants on my homestead. Blessings 🙏🍀🙏
Did you think about using 5/8 zip cut into strips? (saves time plaining it down from 3/4inch, unless you wanted the extra 1/8. I am planning on securing house wrap plus vertical 1x4 as a rain screen on my built. Your idea is something that I can implement insted of securing verticals with concrete screws. The horizontal wood (or zip) would be used as a way to have a place to secure the vertical strips. Wanted your input.
I could’ve used 5/8 zip but I have my own Lumbermill and prefer to use my own wood. It’s free and I did in fact, want the extra 8th inch. using the horizontal 5/8 zip seems like a good idea to secure your verticals. However, if it stands off too far away from the wall, you’ll have bugs behind there. You’ll have to screen the bottom to close that gap.
Pretty sure I would have built out the rest of the house 3/4” before doing all that. Or just let the 3/4” step out be there. Nobody would notice or care. Also the 3/4” gap behind b&b is good. It helps keep the wood dry.
We considered this option, but keep in mind, the furring strips would need to be verticals to ensure proper drainage and prevent rot on those horizontal boards. That means you’d have to mount vertical strips first, then horizontals. By that point you would need minimum 3 inch screws/nails for the final siding planks-more if doing battens. Definitely more variables at play, which is we opted for this method.
@@ADifferentWay that’s true. I’ve seen it done with the furing strips run on a 45 degrees angle. Thats what I’m considering doing.
That’s a clever idea! We never considered that, but you’ll still have the issue of having long-enough nails if you use battens. If you are just doing siding, it would be easier.
They can't call yall lazy😂. Would that hot gun go faster if you paid 500😂? I wonder why y'all did not go with a septic tank? I would like to see more finish inside I believe the last inside was putting down the heating floors line or was it the wood stove. 01-17-24
Our state has very strict septic regulations. We knew our soil wouldn’t pass a percolation test, which means we would be required to install an aerated system. We’ve had one before-high maintenance, high energy requirement, and ridiculously expensive. For us, the composting toilets were the most practical option. As far as the inside of the house, we’ll, not much more has been done! We ran out of wood there for a while and had to wait for the rest to dry. We are hoping to get back to it in the near future. We are also planning to purchase a router sled so we can finally install our countertops. That will be exciting!! Definitely stay tuned.
I would not recommend following this method. By trenching out the foam and attaching the furring strips directly to the ICF studs you are creating a thermal bridge. Basically defeating one of ICFs greatest benefits.
That’s a good point but realize it’s not creating a continuous thermal bridge because you still have the foam on the inside. Additionally, the percentage of the wall compared to the overall house size is extremely small, less than 3%. I also disagree that the greatest benefit is lack of thermal bridging. I consider the thermal mass to be a much greater advantage for a passive solar home. It has no effect on the thermal mass. And lastly, I live in a relatively mild climate, keeping the house warm in the winter is extremely easy with my passive solar design. My biggest concern is cooling in the summer. Thermal bridging across a delta T of less than 20 deg on the hottest day is not a huge issue.
@@ADifferentWay Thermal bridging to the inside of the house is not the main problem. The foam isn't actually there to stop thermal bridging between the inside and outside. The foam is there to trap the thermal energy of the concrete inside the wall.
One of ICFs greatest strengths is the thermal mass of the concrete. The concrete will draw the constant temperature of the earth up through the footings. The ICF wall will stay the roughly the same temperature year around no matter what because of this. That is what actually regulates the temperature inside the house, not the R value of the foam.
By using this method you have basically constructed a large radiator that bleeds off all that thermal energy to the outside which will nullify your greatest efficiency gains.
Also, because the wood siding transfers thermal energy directly into the concrete now you will have a temperature differential between the concrete and the siding. Which means you will have sweating behind your siding and reducing its life.
That makes more sense. Again, I disagree that it’s a large radiator. It’s less than 3% of the surface area. However, your logic does seem very reasonable, and I really wish you worked at Fox block. They were the ones who recommended I do it this way.🙁 if there is a sweating issue behind the boards, I should notice that wood movement within a few seasons.
@@ADifferentWay You're probably right. It's not going to be a disaster or anything. I'm just always chasing that peak efficiency. Give me a call when you do the next one🙂. We could align all your wall planes during the design stage and everything will come out perfect.
I really appreciate your input. We do this channel to learn and educate. If I do something wrong it’s important for people to know that and learn from my mistakes so they’re not repeated.