Came here because I cannot find replacement clapboard nails for my spruce clapboards on my 200 year old Vermont farmhouse, and went down the rabbit hole of different techniques. This was excellent and my sympathies for finding rot and finding a job much larger than you anticipated. After 40 years I now know to anticipate nothing will be straightforward! The flatbar is an essential tool for pulling old clapboards and releasing the nails, also for pounding the nails flat if you can't get to them. Never occurred to me to use an orbital saw, my new who-knew tool, to cut the nails back. I also draw a line if I cut a rotted clapboard back to good wood, and use the orbital saw to cut out the rotted section. Incredibly valuable tool. I wish you had not told me to paint clapboards on both sides - I had never heard that before and none of the siding on my house was ever painted on the backside, which may explain whey they peel more often then I would have guessed. Never heard of the self-adhesive strip either. Also never painted the ends, which is too bad since I just replaced a bunch of rotted ones on the north side of the house that catches the rainstorms and thunderstorms. But I got 20 years or more out of them so not going to complain too much. A lot of great tips here, thanks for filming. Great to see someone using a hammer to nail in, old style.
You should really see my other video on this subject, here: ua-cam.com/video/n6KzUjI1iAE/v-deo.html . What nails are you looking for, the old rosehead cut nails?
I replaced two section of my house with water damage in the same manner without any guidance...After watching your video I realized, I wasn’t too far off in the replacement procedures .... Thank-you for sharing your time and talent! 😎🌈🌺👍
Thanks for the detailed video. I especially appreciate your showing the several methods for cutting/removing the nails when working on that first clapboard.
Phenomenal video and explanation. I am very glad I watched this before trying it. The self adhesive strip is a nice tip that I would not have done. Thank you again.
I 100% agree with you on the only caulking method that should be used for pre-paint work. And I really appreciate the quality of your video sir. Well done and thank you for this "motivation and inspiration". I have a doozy of a 1950 home with clapboard siding GALORE that must be replaced. I think it'll go easier thanks to the new tricks I learned.
usually i kind of roll my eyes when youtubers talk about all their other videos, but i actually came here to see how you were going to caulk this, and then right at the end you mention you have a caulking video! I'll have to hunt that down, but a link woulda been cool. I realize it might be a pain in the ass to add that in the description, but anyway. thanks for the detailed video. i like that it turned into a much bigger project, just like real life. none of that this old house cake-walk for every task type story. thank you!
Outstanding video. No extraneous blabber, just thorough explanation. I'm sort of glad the project turned out to be more complicated than intended. Isn't that always the case?
Hey John, thanks very much for this excellent video. Very concise and to the point. Also, looking at what I'm replacing, I know there's one area that must have rot beneath.
I just published another video about spotting and repairing rot that you might also find helpful. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/6R_5CGKMJXw/v-deo.html
Actually, that dryer vent was a relatively new addition, it appeared. The main issue was water flying off the roof past the gutter, some of which was getting behind the clapboards. Water is insidious!
I haven't finished watching this as I have to run to work, but this is by far the best video I have found for this work. Thank you soooo much! It's so thorough, provides optional tools for each step, so clearly instructed with explanations to help understand the big picture, so well done. I can't wait to see the whole thing but had to comment now because it's that good! I hope there will be some rotted plywood behind those clapboards as I need to replace my plywood and am hoping you will address that topic too here. If not, and you have a video for that, please let me know how to find it. I've subscribed (and liked this) but look forward to seeing your other videos too. Thanks for the great, patient explanations and work, and keep them coming please!!! :)
Excellent explanation on the parts that need it and none on the pats that dont. Nice work Keep uploading (found this on a search re: replacing an entire "wall" of out door siding from rough cut cedar (30 yr old) to hardi Thanks for the help and advice
As a working handyman, I would spray Mold Armor on the areas that have some mold. It's a mildewcide that works differently than bleach. Also, I would saturate those punky areas with penetrating epoxy which will prevent further rot.
The punky areas in the framing weren't that bad in this case. I use System 3 and also Minwax wood hardener when I need to consolidate punky material, but it's really best to remove it entirely. One it turns punky it seems to be just a matter of time before more rot appears.
Very informative and helpful!! You mention avoid Tyvek and use felt/tar paper...what about clapboarding right over ZipSystem greenboard? Or should you always use felt/tar paper ? I'm hearing mix messages from some. Please let me know. Also, do you have any videos on cut-out on clipboard for electrical or dryer vents, etc?
Hi, I thought the clapboard extended behind the zigzag trim piece that makes a corner. I didn't catch the name of the flashing you said to use behind a midsection cut/join.I,m doing my villa at the mo so really appreciated the humour and the demo.
Self-adhesive window and door flashing works great behind the clapboard joints. Corner boards can be set up different ways. Most common is a butt-joint with the clapboard which is then caulked before painting. You can also make corner boards with a rabbit on the edge which receives the edge of the clapboards.
Thanks for the video! The fact that you had so much more work to do actually helped me with my current project as I face nearly all the same issues. 👍 Do you ever use bora-care or bora-care + mold treatment when you hit areas that aren't rotten but maybe have been exposed to rot before putting the wrap/felting etc. on or do you find that cutting out the bad wood is enough for most jobs?
Borate is an old wood treatment going back many decades, and it can help protect against fungus and insects. If you feel your repair is marginal or you just want peace of mind there's no harm in using it, that's for sure.
This has been the most helpful video on replacing clapboard by far! Do you think this same method would work for termite damaged siding with different types of precautions?
Sure, these methods will work with clapboard damaged for any reason. Obviously with termites you'll want to have an exterminator on call too, and be certain you get all of the buggers.
@@enduringcharm Thank you so much! I'm actually a little excited to tackle this project now lol. If you've ever thought about adding tools and material affiliate links I would have totally clicked them all!! Thanks again
Great video. It explained the process perfectly. My only question is what to do with long pieces of clapboard. I have a section where I only need to replace a length of the clapboard. Can I use a multi tool to cut the board up to the stud. I would prefer not to replace the entire piece.
In other words you have a long piece (say 12-16 foot long) that has a small section of damage in the middle somewhere? This is a common problem. Back before we had multi-tools and reciprocating saws it was more difficult, now it's pretty easy. You'll need to loosen the clapboard and associated nails above the damaged section, perhaps a few feet on both sides. If the nails come out, even better. Now mark the damaged section you want to remove of the clapboard below. Use a square to make a vertical line. You may want to extend the area to the nearest stud. Use a mult-tool, recip saw or just a small handsaw to cut the marked vertical lines, and pull away the top clapboard so you can reach all the way up to the top edge of the lower clapboard with the saw. Remove the section, insert flashing to protect the new joints, and install a new piece of the correct length. Nail it off and nail the loosened clapboard above and repaint!
Wow sir this was a great video. I learned a lot and feel like I can do this too. Question, some of the old clapboard that's still in good shape, the joints and corners have broken caulk lines. Is re-caulkimg all the clapboard joints a regular maintenance item? It'll be a lot of work because it will require painting too, but I'm assuming it's a must. Thank you
Typically if the joints are caulked and painted well in the first place then the caulk will last the life of the paint job. When the time comes to repaint, then the caulk joints are cleaned and refreshed.
most important part I wanted to see was how to avoid having this happen again which you unfortunately avoided showing. what to do to avoid moisture causing rot to occur. Assume it was some kind of flashing installed some how at the top to not allow water to run down in back of clapboard resulting in fugus to grow from combination of moisture and heat . But thank you for your help showing how to replace wooded rotten clapboard.
A latex caulk is appropriate for painted exterior trim and siding. Some people seem to dislike DAP Alex Plus acrylic latex caulk, which is what I typically use in this situation, but I have installations over two decades old still going strong. I suspect some folks misunderstand how it should be applied and where it should be used. It must also be painted over, of course.
Ideally the nail at the bottom of the upper board enters just above the top of the lower board. However, if your exposure is tight then you may have little choice but to nail through the lower board. In that case, you can pre-drill to avoid splitting.
Question, why are you Face Nailing? I actually thought you nailed...like you do with Hardie Board...along the Top...avoiding the exposed Nail Heads? Thanks for good video!
No, face nailing along the bottom edge is the traditional method going back hundreds of years, and with good reason. If you nailed just the top the clapboards would easily curl up in time, and there would be large gaps. With tapered clapboards the top edge is also very thin. The clapboards would crack with each nail, and the whole board would likely split in short order. Face nailing the bottom edge with galvanized button or oval head nails or with stainless siding nails holds the clapboard at the the thickest part and also traps the clapboard below so that there is little movement.
If you use "button head" nails they will crush the wood with the final hammer blow and form a seal. If you use stainless flat head nails you may want to caulk if you predrilled a hole, but typically they will seal fine otherwise. For new work I'll put two coats of finish paint over the primer.
Funny how simple jobs turn into semi-major repairs. Good catch though, this water damage would continue to eat away at the sheathing and eventually work itself into the framing. At least no insects got in there to feast on the wet wood.
Yeah, I think I forgot to mention in the video that I put some copper based fungicide and wood treatment on the framing before buttoning it up. I thought about videotaping all that work, but the video was already getting long. I have had jobs like this where the framing is rotted too. One 1700s house I worked on I discovered after the owner asked me to replace a bottom clapboard that the entire corner of the house was hanging in midair! An 8x12 timber sill had just turned to dirt. That was a week long job to repair.
Interesting question. I actually lose business because I'm honest to a fault. I always try to prepare clients for issues like this, and I often tell people I'd rather scare them up front than surprise them at the end. But, not everybody appreciates honesty. I have had people go with other contractors and then come back later to tell me I was right all along. Anytime I see rot or other red flags I try to have a conversation about where things could go. Even with standard remodels in a bath or kitchen I try to explain about potential hidden issues which could make the price go up. I try not to nickel and dime people to death, but if there is a major flaw discovered that must be fixed, it's going to cost more. I also don't give fixed cost estimates. Instead, I provide an estimated range for labor and materials so that clients set their expectations accordingly. If everything goes well, it will be on the cheaper side of the estimate. If things get ugly, most or all of that ugliness is covered in the estimate.
Whoever invented that siding was a total moron I mean. 3 " of coverage per course. Imagine a two story House criminiy it's a career to do 1 if those guys back in the 1900 s were paid by the square they starved to death
No, the real problem in this common situation is a lack of a "kick-out" flashing. It's now required by code on new construction. It just directs water away from the edge at the end. It's easiest to install as part of a re-roofing, though you can do it any time.
I generally use damp "shop towels" that they sell in a box and replenish as needed. However, sometimes there isn't water available in the field and I don't have enough drinking water left to spare, so I end up using dry towels. It does make for a mess.
Kick outs only recently became code and I think it's fair to say that a vast majority of houses still don't have them installed. It's one of those weird gray areas where nobody takes responsibility for it--is it the roofer, the gutter installer or the carpenter who should handle it? I think roofers at this point should know to install diverters, but sometimes it does require other tradespeople to get involved. And the diverters aren't magic, either, so you still need to pay attention to flashing and siding details.
You'll want to match replacement sheathing with the same thickness on the rest of your project house. It could be 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch plywood or OSB, it could be something like 3/4 diagonal boards, or you may not even have sheathing if it is a very old house.
For clapboard siding the two best choices are either a galvanized "button head" (oval head) nail or a stainless steel siding nail. The stainless nail works best for a modern house, the oval head is better for a more traditional look.
No, the black stuff you see in the video is tar-impregnated felt, commonly referred to as felt. It's also used on roofs underneath shingles, and has a long history. This particular house already used it under the rest of the siding. Tyvek actually has a poor history under cedar or redwood clapboard siding, because the tannin leaches out of the wood and acts as a surfactant on the Tyvek, ruining the product. While there are details that supposedly allow the use of Tyvek under cedar, I've personally seen some nightmare rot because of it's use and given the choice I stick with felt over Tyvek with installing cedar or redwood.
Came here because I cannot find replacement clapboard nails for my spruce clapboards on my 200 year old Vermont farmhouse, and went down the rabbit hole of different techniques. This was excellent and my sympathies for finding rot and finding a job much larger than you anticipated. After 40 years I now know to anticipate nothing will be straightforward! The flatbar is an essential tool for pulling old clapboards and releasing the nails, also for pounding the nails flat if you can't get to them. Never occurred to me to use an orbital saw, my new who-knew tool, to cut the nails back. I also draw a line if I cut a rotted clapboard back to good wood, and use the orbital saw to cut out the rotted section. Incredibly valuable tool.
I wish you had not told me to paint clapboards on both sides - I had never heard that before and none of the siding on my house was ever painted on the backside, which may explain whey they peel more often then I would have guessed. Never heard of the self-adhesive strip either. Also never painted the ends, which is too bad since I just replaced a bunch of rotted ones on the north side of the house that catches the rainstorms and thunderstorms. But I got 20 years or more out of them so not going to complain too much.
A lot of great tips here, thanks for filming. Great to see someone using a hammer to nail in, old style.
You should really see my other video on this subject, here: ua-cam.com/video/n6KzUjI1iAE/v-deo.html . What nails are you looking for, the old rosehead cut nails?
When searching for "replacing clap board" or "replacing siding", this should be the first video that shows up. Very informative through and through!
Excellent video. Good to see that I am not the only one who always seems to end up with projects that don't end up as simple as I was hoping.
I replaced two section of my house with water damage in the same manner without any guidance...After watching your video I realized, I wasn’t too far off in the replacement procedures .... Thank-you for sharing your time and talent! 😎🌈🌺👍
Thanks for the detailed video. I especially appreciate your showing the several methods for cutting/removing the nails when working on that first clapboard.
oh man...I have been here. Satisfying when its done, but so demoralizing when first found. Thanks for all the tips!
I have a video coming up in a few weeks about another clapboard repair for damage that was caused by a window air conditioner leaking water.
Good video, you've got an easy going instructive manner. Also proves no job is ever as simple as you expect, but no need to panic.
Phenomenal video and explanation. I am very glad I watched this before trying it. The self adhesive strip is a nice tip that I would not have done. Thank you again.
I 100% agree with you on the only caulking method that should be used for pre-paint work. And I really appreciate the quality of your video sir. Well done and thank you for this "motivation and inspiration". I have a doozy of a 1950 home with clapboard siding GALORE that must be replaced. I think it'll go easier thanks to the new tricks I learned.
Excellent video, exactly what I needed without any useless talking. Thank you!
usually i kind of roll my eyes when youtubers talk about all their other videos, but i actually came here to see how you were going to caulk this, and then right at the end you mention you have a caulking video! I'll have to hunt that down, but a link woulda been cool. I realize it might be a pain in the ass to add that in the description, but anyway. thanks for the detailed video. i like that it turned into a much bigger project, just like real life. none of that this old house cake-walk for every task type story. thank you!
Your wish is my command! ua-cam.com/video/CsNTqR6xWoY/v-deo.html
Thanks, great video. This gives me the confidence to do my own work.
Very helpful. The unexpected detour created an opportunity for some valuable teaching points.
Thanks, Just Starting Out with Replacing Siding.
Thank you for using a microphone. Makes all the difference.. Good job.
Outstanding video. No extraneous blabber, just thorough explanation. I'm sort of glad the project turned out to be more complicated than intended. Isn't that always the case?
Yes, it does seem to be the case! No rest for the weary.
You can be glad, I wouldn't expect him to be...
Finally! The video with all the details I needed! Thank you!
The best informative video I have seen in a long time. Thank you!
Excellent video!! Thank you!!! I wish you would have shown some of your replacing the rotten sheathing that was underneath the siding.
See if this video sheds some more light on that part of it:
ua-cam.com/video/6R_5CGKMJXw/v-deo.html
Hey John, thanks very much for this excellent video. Very concise and to the point. Also, looking at what I'm replacing, I know there's one area that must have rot beneath.
I just published another video about spotting and repairing rot that you might also find helpful. Check it out here:
ua-cam.com/video/6R_5CGKMJXw/v-deo.html
Excellent presentation. Easy to understand.
That was a damn good video. Very informative, and detailed.
I'm guessing that dryer vent helped with all that hot moist air going up that wall...Great video, helped a lot as I tackle some rot issues of my own.
Actually, that dryer vent was a relatively new addition, it appeared. The main issue was water flying off the roof past the gutter, some of which was getting behind the clapboards. Water is insidious!
Great work. I wish they build houses from the beginning with practices you apply.
Good trades man here...Knows some time saving tricks..
I haven't finished watching this as I have to run to work, but this is by far the best video I have found for this work. Thank you soooo much! It's so thorough, provides optional tools for each step, so clearly instructed with explanations to help understand the big picture, so well done. I can't wait to see the whole thing but had to comment now because it's that good! I hope there will be some rotted plywood behind those clapboards as I need to replace my plywood and am hoping you will address that topic too here. If not, and you have a video for that, please let me know how to find it. I've subscribed (and liked this) but look forward to seeing your other videos too. Thanks for the great, patient explanations and work, and keep them coming please!!! :)
Great video! Your videos are among some of the best i have seen .
Thanks for taking us along with you.
Excellent explanation on the parts that need it and none on the pats that dont. Nice work Keep uploading (found this on a search re: replacing an entire "wall" of out door siding from rough cut cedar (30 yr old) to hardi Thanks for the help and advice
As a working handyman, I would spray Mold Armor on the areas that have some mold. It's a mildewcide that works differently than bleach. Also, I would saturate those punky areas
with penetrating epoxy which will prevent further rot.
The punky areas in the framing weren't that bad in this case. I use System 3 and also Minwax wood hardener when I need to consolidate punky material, but it's really best to remove it entirely. One it turns punky it seems to be just a matter of time before more rot appears.
Very informative and helpful!! You mention avoid Tyvek and use felt/tar paper...what about clapboarding right over ZipSystem greenboard? Or should you always use felt/tar paper ? I'm hearing mix messages from some. Please let me know.
Also, do you have any videos on cut-out on clipboard for electrical or dryer vents, etc?
Who the hell is disliking this? Thanks for the tips. Very helpful
Thank you. A very helpful video presented step by step.
Very impressive thank you so much ❤
Great Job. Thank you for the informations.
Hi, I thought the clapboard extended behind the zigzag trim piece that makes a corner. I didn't catch the name of the flashing you said to use behind a midsection cut/join.I,m doing my villa at the mo so really appreciated the humour and the demo.
Self-adhesive window and door flashing works great behind the clapboard joints. Corner boards can be set up different ways. Most common is a butt-joint with the clapboard which is then caulked before painting. You can also make corner boards with a rabbit on the edge which receives the edge of the clapboards.
Excellent video. Thank you, Enduring Charm.
Thanks for the video! The fact that you had so much more work to do actually helped me with my current project as I face nearly all the same issues. 👍
Do you ever use bora-care or bora-care + mold treatment when you hit areas that aren't rotten but maybe have been exposed to rot before putting the wrap/felting etc. on or do you find that cutting out the bad wood is enough for most jobs?
Borate is an old wood treatment going back many decades, and it can help protect against fungus and insects. If you feel your repair is marginal or you just want peace of mind there's no harm in using it, that's for sure.
Great video! Answered all my questions.
Glad it helped!
This has been the most helpful video on replacing clapboard by far! Do you think this same method would work for termite damaged siding with different types of precautions?
Sure, these methods will work with clapboard damaged for any reason. Obviously with termites you'll want to have an exterminator on call too, and be certain you get all of the buggers.
@@enduringcharm Thank you so much! I'm actually a little excited to tackle this project now lol. If you've ever thought about adding tools and material affiliate links I would have totally clicked them all!! Thanks again
@@alyssaweekley Here's another video with similar techniques that you may find helpful: ua-cam.com/video/6R_5CGKMJXw/v-deo.html
Great video. Do you have a video on the sheathing and copper you replaced?
I don't, but you might find this other video helpful: ua-cam.com/video/6R_5CGKMJXw/v-deo.html
Great video. It explained the process perfectly. My only question is what to do with long pieces of clapboard. I have a section where I only need to replace a length of the clapboard. Can I use a multi tool to cut the board up to the stud. I would prefer not to replace the entire piece.
In other words you have a long piece (say 12-16 foot long) that has a small section of damage in the middle somewhere? This is a common problem. Back before we had multi-tools and reciprocating saws it was more difficult, now it's pretty easy. You'll need to loosen the clapboard and associated nails above the damaged section, perhaps a few feet on both sides. If the nails come out, even better. Now mark the damaged section you want to remove of the clapboard below. Use a square to make a vertical line. You may want to extend the area to the nearest stud. Use a mult-tool, recip saw or just a small handsaw to cut the marked vertical lines, and pull away the top clapboard so you can reach all the way up to the top edge of the lower clapboard with the saw. Remove the section, insert flashing to protect the new joints, and install a new piece of the correct length. Nail it off and nail the loosened clapboard above and repaint!
Wow sir this was a great video. I learned a lot and feel like I can do this too. Question, some of the old clapboard that's still in good shape, the joints and corners have broken caulk lines. Is re-caulkimg all the clapboard joints a regular maintenance item? It'll be a lot of work because it will require painting too, but I'm assuming it's a must. Thank you
Typically if the joints are caulked and painted well in the first place then the caulk will last the life of the paint job. When the time comes to repaint, then the caulk joints are cleaned and refreshed.
That really sucks you had to do all that extra work... But it made a great helpful video for me!
most important part I wanted to see was how to avoid having this happen again which you unfortunately avoided showing. what to do to avoid moisture causing rot to occur. Assume it was some kind of flashing installed some how at the top to not allow water to run down in back of clapboard resulting in fugus to grow from combination of moisture and heat . But thank you for your help showing how to replace wooded rotten clapboard.
The information you want is covered in detail in another video. See this: ua-cam.com/video/n6KzUjI1iAE/v-deo.htmlsi=f1MfIj1mgy6iRTWQ
awesome video thanks so much
excellent video thanks
What brand/type of caulk did you use? 🤔
A latex caulk is appropriate for painted exterior trim and siding. Some people seem to dislike DAP Alex Plus acrylic latex caulk, which is what I typically use in this situation, but I have installations over two decades old still going strong. I suspect some folks misunderstand how it should be applied and where it should be used. It must also be painted over, of course.
@@enduringcharm - Thank you. I kind of thought latex caulk would be it. 👍
Are you nailing through the underneath board? Thanks, Greg
Ideally the nail at the bottom of the upper board enters just above the top of the lower board. However, if your exposure is tight then you may have little choice but to nail through the lower board. In that case, you can pre-drill to avoid splitting.
@@enduringcharm Thank you
Really interesting and helpful. Thanks.
Question, why are you Face Nailing? I actually thought you nailed...like you do with Hardie Board...along the Top...avoiding the exposed Nail Heads? Thanks for good video!
No, face nailing along the bottom edge is the traditional method going back hundreds of years, and with good reason. If you nailed just the top the clapboards would easily curl up in time, and there would be large gaps. With tapered clapboards the top edge is also very thin. The clapboards would crack with each nail, and the whole board would likely split in short order. Face nailing the bottom edge with galvanized button or oval head nails or with stainless siding nails holds the clapboard at the the thickest part and also traps the clapboard below so that there is little movement.
Great video
You don't caulk the nail heads on the sidings? Just paint over them without priming? Thanks.
If you use "button head" nails they will crush the wood with the final hammer blow and form a seal. If you use stainless flat head nails you may want to caulk if you predrilled a hole, but typically they will seal fine otherwise. For new work I'll put two coats of finish paint over the primer.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Funny how simple jobs turn into semi-major repairs. Good catch though, this water damage would continue to eat away at the sheathing and eventually work itself into the framing. At least no insects got in there to feast on the wet wood.
Yeah, I think I forgot to mention in the video that I put some copper based fungicide and wood treatment on the framing before buttoning it up. I thought about videotaping all that work, but the video was already getting long. I have had jobs like this where the framing is rotted too. One 1700s house I worked on I discovered after the owner asked me to replace a bottom clapboard that the entire corner of the house was hanging in midair! An 8x12 timber sill had just turned to dirt. That was a week long job to repair.
At 6:25 he said ‘thick caulk’ -
great video. very helpful.
Great video, thanks!
Did you prime the back with the spray paint also?
You can use spray paint if you want, but I usually just roll it on with a roller. In this case, the siding came pre-primed, which is also an option.
When you price that out do prepare the customers ahead of time for the extra work or did you have to go make a call?
Interesting question. I actually lose business because I'm honest to a fault. I always try to prepare clients for issues like this, and I often tell people I'd rather scare them up front than surprise them at the end. But, not everybody appreciates honesty. I have had people go with other contractors and then come back later to tell me I was right all along. Anytime I see rot or other red flags I try to have a conversation about where things could go. Even with standard remodels in a bath or kitchen I try to explain about potential hidden issues which could make the price go up. I try not to nickel and dime people to death, but if there is a major flaw discovered that must be fixed, it's going to cost more. I also don't give fixed cost estimates. Instead, I provide an estimated range for labor and materials so that clients set their expectations accordingly. If everything goes well, it will be on the cheaper side of the estimate. If things get ugly, most or all of that ugliness is covered in the estimate.
I'm restoring an older home from 1903. And that clapboard is THE most time consuming work I've done in my life
Whoever invented that siding was a total moron I mean. 3 " of coverage per course. Imagine a two story House criminiy it's a career to do 1 if those guys back in the 1900 s were paid by the square they starved to death
would giving the end of the gutter a bit more of an incline - away from the corner of the house - solve the problem?
No, the real problem in this common situation is a lack of a "kick-out" flashing. It's now required by code on new construction. It just directs water away from the edge at the end. It's easiest to install as part of a re-roofing, though you can do it any time.
It’s amazing how many people don’t use a wet rag when they caulk. It’s like they enjoy being sticky all day.
I generally use damp "shop towels" that they sell in a box and replenish as needed. However, sometimes there isn't water available in the field and I don't have enough drinking water left to spare, so I end up using dry towels. It does make for a mess.
Great video. Tks
As soon as i saw the gutter at the wall my first question was is their a kick out..
Kick outs only recently became code and I think it's fair to say that a vast majority of houses still don't have them installed. It's one of those weird gray areas where nobody takes responsibility for it--is it the roofer, the gutter installer or the carpenter who should handle it? I think roofers at this point should know to install diverters, but sometimes it does require other tradespeople to get involved. And the diverters aren't magic, either, so you still need to pay attention to flashing and siding details.
what size was the new sheathing? 1/2 inch?
You'll want to match replacement sheathing with the same thickness on the rest of your project house. It could be 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch plywood or OSB, it could be something like 3/4 diagonal boards, or you may not even have sheathing if it is a very old house.
Very good
What kind of nail did you use?
For clapboard siding the two best choices are either a galvanized "button head" (oval head) nail or a stainless steel siding nail. The stainless nail works best for a modern house, the oval head is better for a more traditional look.
I like repairing things, but I hate the supposedly simple problem that gets huge and complicated.
💯
Was that a black widow?
Ha! I never even noticed the spiders until I watched the video myself! Occupational hazards...
No Tyvex...???
No, the black stuff you see in the video is tar-impregnated felt, commonly referred to as felt. It's also used on roofs underneath shingles, and has a long history. This particular house already used it under the rest of the siding. Tyvek actually has a poor history under cedar or redwood clapboard siding, because the tannin leaches out of the wood and acts as a surfactant on the Tyvek, ruining the product. While there are details that supposedly allow the use of Tyvek under cedar, I've personally seen some nightmare rot because of it's use and given the choice I stick with felt over Tyvek with installing cedar or redwood.
enduringcharm , good to know thank you...!
what a pain in the ass - nothing is easy !!!
Great video! Thank you so much.