@@abbasammar210 well thankfully it's a code you can still drive with lmaoo, if you have the proper tools its totally doable on your own to replace the DV
Thanks so much for the video man. Thought I was gonna be in the hole 3 grand for a new turbo. One part order and a 2 hr fix without a mechanic and we rolling again. Holla👊😎👊
Thanks for the video. I own a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T with the same code (P0299). I took it to AutoZone for a free check engine light diagnosis and the proposed solution (from the print out) was to change the Turbocharger Boost Solenoid. In this video, you mentioned bad diverter valve. It looks like these two conditions can set off the same code. How did you come up with the conclusion that it's a bad diverter valve and not the solenoid was the issue?
Ahmed that's a great question. Since I had the code for boost pressure regulation, and I knew of the faulty diverter valves, I went right for removing the diverter valve to inspect the rubber bladder that I show in this video. They say, the turbo boost solenoids are much less common to fail. I personally had one B7 2.0t S-line, that had 203kmi and never had to replace that solenoid.
Thank you for this video man!! I bought a OBD2 scanner and had this problem. Audi was charging 300 just to check and probably wanted 2k to 3k to replace the whole turbo. Going uphill will slow my A5 down and the check engine light would appear. Definitely gonna work on it now
Hi mate, I’ve got an a3 1.4 tfsi 8p and I’ve checked the diverted valve but it’s already got the new one in! The engine light comes up on but doesn’t seem to effect it although in general, the car boosts and then in 5th and 6th gear hits sort of like a flat spot and then goes as if it’s gone from a 1.4 turbo to just a 1.4 until I reset the car and carry on going🙄keep clearing the codes but it keeps coming back as I thought clear the code and see if it comes back and it has come back, multiple times....any ideas please? Thankyou in advance👍🏽
just want to thank you!!! i went to the dealership and was told i most likely needed a new turbocharger ($2800-3200) on my 2011 A4 with 82k. i am female and older (don't look like a mechanic) soooo considering your youtube video sounds like they were going to charge me 3000$ for a 100$part. you are a hero:-)
@@MidknightMechanics have the same issue, light went on p0299 underboost. Been driving fine for 3000 miles, audi mechanic said sounds like new turbocharger needed, seems crazy to me if driving fine, any ideas?
My 08 audi jerks when I accelerate and when I go uphill. You think this is the same cause? Stupid me went to audi and told me to replace the whole turbo.
Hey Mike, I used a 1/4" drive ratchet, with a small extension, and a 1/4", 6 point socket to hold the small (I think T30) bit. Which means I had to electrical tape the bit so it wouldn't fall out of the 1/4" socket (I used one of those tiny, maybe 3/4" long bits that some screwdrivers can magnetically hold). I had to do this because of the clearance you spoke of. I wish I could send you a picture! Send me an email if you need a pic. You should be able to go to my "about" page and find my contact information.
I know this post is from awhile ago... but i am having similar issues. I already have the new and improved Diverter Valve in, no boost leaks, just replaced PCV and the hoses. But my CEL comes on every once in awhile saying code P0299 but then itll go away. Turbo sounds weird at high RPM's sorta like its sputtering? I've kinda leaned towards the engine HPFP being bad..
Unfortunately it's possible dont blame it just yet. Grab yourself a new cam follower and o-ring, only 3 torx hold down the HPFP, and theres just 1 electrical connector if i remember correctly. With age they say fuel can slip by the seals inside the pump and burn from high temps & friction and turn to carbon. You should be able to see evidence of it. Send me an email to my UA-cam handle which is my gmail- I'll show you how mine looked before I replaced it.
I just changed mine out thanks to your video, it seems to have the power back but my question is, do you have to manually reset the CEL with a scanner? When i started it up the CEL was still present so i cleared it. I drove it on the freeway and got it and the light still hasn't came on. Do you think the CEL will come back on some time later or was that the fix? I did purchase the same part you recommended from ECS..
Sorry my friend. During this video I had an A6 4.2 on the lift, in the middle of a transmission swap. I had no easy way to actually film this swap from start to finish. Its actually not as intimidating as you would expect, i still 100% encourage you to try it on your own. Please know I will be here on standby for you, or simply send me an email. For prep, just make sure you have your small hand tools in order like the Torx I mention in the video.
@@sofhero6079 Nope, just that one electrical harness. Remember the trick with VW/Audi harness is to push IN first, then pry the tab with your finger/nail, and then pull the plug off. When you push in first, it takes the pressure off the tab, so it can easily release. This is the case for almost all of the VW/Audi electrical harnesses.
I took my 2013 a6 2.o turbo for a recall for a software update and once I drove out of the dealership the check engine light came on. brought it back and they said it was this code p0299. the turbo was lagging and not working. 3 days later the light came off by itself and turbo is back on with no issue. can the software update for the intercooler affect the turbo computer and sensor ? never heard a turbo noise or a leak
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro, this is the 3rd time in less than a year that I have replaced the DV and I still get the P0299 code. What I think that makes this unique is that when the car is running cool, it's a beast! But as soon as its up to running temperature its pure sluggish. I notice that when the P0299 does come on its usually on some type of incline (me going up hill), or merging on to the highway. I hit the gas and it doesn't do anything. Again when its cold, its a beast. But as soon as it warms up this happens. I have been finding multiple answer for P0299 , MAFS, PCV, Cat, this video. But Im thinking that the temperature issue might help diagnose it further. I read that it could be a leak somewhere because of the metal expanding when its hot. Still not sure. Oh and after an oil change at about 3,000 miles i get a low oil light. and then I add a quart. Please help if you can. I love the car and it normally drives great, but this acceleration issue is a pain in the ass. thanks again!
Frank, unfortunately the 2.0T's are well known for burning oil in between oil changes. Early on, VAG had recalled many of the 2.0's for it. I knew of 2 owners that had entire engine's replaced under the recall. My 07 2.0t that I no longer have, would be down a quart right around 4,000 miles. I would just add a quart and it would be fine until my next oil change, since i did them every 5,500. Audi sent out an updated memorandum saying the actual capacity for the 2.0t engine was 4.8 quarts including the filter change- i think this was to compensate for the burning oil. If you check your manual- it was less, printed saying 4.3 or 4.5 if i remember correct. From how you described the sluggish performance- I wouldn't rule out the MAF, but it usually takes serious miles for a MAF to die. I've replaced one at 130k ish on a Volvo once, but it ran like total crap cold and warm when it happened. Other people have had your issue on a 2.0t and it turned out to be a stuck valve in the turbo. It won't be a classic vacuum leak because it should still happen when it's cold... Also have you already had the car smoke tested for vac leaks? I'm sure you didn't replace those DV's with another rubber diaphragm style, right-
Hello first off thanks for the video. I just purchased the same car. And not even 5 mins down the road the cars check engine light came on. So i stopped by autozone long story short car is throwing that code P0299 & P0420. Would you say its the DV value. Thanks
I own a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Turbo. I'm having a very hard time breaking the top nuts loose due to the location. I'm thinking about removing the oil line (connected to the engine) for better access to the diverter valve. Do you think this is a good idea? Any idea of the torx bits size to these oil line nuts?
It is a good video, I have the exact same problem, and I was told to replace the diverter valve, so I did. However, I am still getting the same code. Check engine light turns up when I go faster. Then I took it to advanced autoparts to see what is the problem, and it is stil showing the P0299 code. Is there anything else I could try? Thank you
I have the same code still need to see if its my DV getting it replaced this weekend. also it can probally be the wastegate which cant be replaced you'll need a whole new turbo which would run about 500$ who knows how much to install it. I have a question Yeldos how did the car run before you installed the DV?
steady check engine light stays on constantly ---- dam your're good!! thank you so much for this, my problem should be solved after getting that new quality diverter ..i have a 2003 A4 1.8L Turbo Charge Quattro , so i should be ok, yes? .. oh, and how much will it cost? im not a car genius like you, so will have to pay a mechanic.
When replacing the diverter valve for the 2.0t, did any of you all had problems with clearance to unscrew the 3 bolts? I'm having problems, did you guys disconnect anything to get proper clearance to get out the 3 bolts? Any help will be appreciate :)
vini110- nothing removed for clearance but you are right, it's super tight. I used a 1/4 wratchet and an even smaller bit wratchet, that is made to hold just the small 3/4inch long torx bit
Hi. I have 2010 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro. I had Diverter valve and turbo boost solenoid replaced as my car center wanted. However, it did not solve the problem. My mpg is about 12~14 mpg, significantly low. Now, the service center is telling me that they need to replace catalytic and wastegate. (NOT Audi dealership). The turbo seems to work at high rpm but just underboosting. IF the turbo itself is not causing the problem, what else can be in your opinion? I just want to get normal mpg so i dont waste huge amount of gas.
@@MidknightMechanics thank you I have a new turbo on there but I noticed lately it's been having trouble especially when goin up hills not on flat ground but I do have a p0299 code
How did u know it was diverter like what test did u do to figure this out? Some videos on UA-cam with same code r saying it’s a hose and they show the leak some are saying it’s the turbo / a part on the turbo which they heat up and hammer on which can fix the leak inside the turbo ( they aren’t hitting the turbo but a part on it ) basically question is what test did u do to figure out it was the diverter like specified ca actual boost log or ?
Hey Notorious. It was the symptoms i had, under boost- like a vacuum leak- (boost leak) and the codes I pulled from ross-tech. The other thing is, I knew this car did not have the upgraded diverter valve yet because of my length of ownership. Do you know the history of the car? Turbo's failing is not common unless oil changes were abused. You can easily pull the intercooler hose off that turbo, and pinch the shaft and try to wiggle it, to see how bad the play is.
@@MidknightMechanics I don’t believe my car has got the updated diverter I’ve owned it for 3 years she’s from Huston Texas but she lives in Alberta Canada now and oil changes I do pretty often but my Audi burns/leaks oil so every 2,000km I have fill the engine back up with oil only use synthetic 5-40w I’m praying it the diverter can’t afford a new turbo.. I never had the issue once in 3 years and I drove it hard a lot at nights usually 2-3 hours in the summer and I just got eurodyne tune suppose to add 55Hp 90LB of torque drove the car from the shop in Calgary to my city 2 hours away did a pull and boom she got p0299 ⚠️
Hey Eddie. Yes I sure did, it just had much more boost when laying into the throttle. Also, before the replacement if you floored the car, it would start to create boost and then cough, badly.
My timing chain stretched and threw code p0016 buy also a code for p0299..very hard to start and low power at slower speeds but ran fine at hwy speeds..the mechanic said my turbo is fine, it was the timing chain issue causing this code on turbo..what are your thoughts? 2012 audi a5 2.0
Troy are you sure it stretched? Usually the hydraulic tensioner fails prematurely and lets the chain skip on the gears. There is an Audi TSB for this issue- TSB-15-09-04 Use this page from Ross Tech for verification :forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?4812-Audi-Volkswagen-2-0L-Chain-Drive-P0016-Cam-Crank-correlation-check
Midnight mechanics the audi repair facility did say the tensioner failed causing chain to jump several teeth. They are replacing tensioner, guides, chain etc..$2100 due to being very labor intensive.
@@MidknightMechanics I believe it did. I don't know I didn't install it I just took it out and cleaned it. I thought it was a direct replacement for a diverter valve but for ricers like me.
I wish you had shown how to unplug the connector...for the world of me, I can’t figure it out...I’ve tried about everything, and I don’t want to snap it off.
Rich can you email me? Find my contact by going to my "about" page. You just need to push forward (hard), then use your thumb to pry back on the tab on the connecter, then unplug.
Not very easy Joe. I had to use a 45-degree right angle adapter to spin them out, and a micro quarter inch (bit) ratchet with the Torx in it, OR 1/4 ratchet with little 2" extension, and torx bit on that setup.
@@MidknightMechanics Can you please take a pic of these tools that you used along with its brand names? You can email it to me at kaysix0@gmail.com or phone (267)971-5328. The right angle adapter that Ip found was for a power tool. I'm wandering if I can use this tool in a ratchet type tool.
Tyrell your main, Check Engine MIL in the upper left (just like in my video) on the cluster doesn't come on/light up at all with the key in position 2? That's a cluster out type deal to replace the bulb that is in charge of that specific warning lamp.
I have a6 3.0 2010 the eninge check shows ,when i put the key in, but when the engine is on it doesn't show car runs month oil got change and doesn't make no noise 106miles on it 🤔 what can't the problem
My friend- if i understand your question correctly, the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on when you turn the ignition on, put after you start the car, the CEL goes out and stays out? That's exactly how modern cars work. Jump in another vehicle if you can - you'll see the same thing happen. You only need to worry if the CEL stays on, after the engine is running, or if the CEL blinks (misfire) after the engine is running.
What they do is let excess boost/air pressure bleed off, when the throttle plate is closed after being in boost. This keeps the boost from going back into the turbo which cause compressor surge, which can damage the turbbo. So basically a "DV" is there to prevent the turbo from killing itself.
SwervinMad- Couldn't tell you exactly. I put 80,000 miles on the piston style DV, on my previously owned 07 2.0t with APR tune. The piston style will for sure outlast the diaphragm style. I would doubt 120k+ miles. This of course depends if you are running higher boost or a tune on the car, which will be giving the DV more of a workout.
My smallest 1/4" ratchet with an adapter that went from 1/4 to 3/8's to fit the T30. Also I used a tiny ratchet that is a bit holding ratchet- the style bits that are only about 1/2" long that normally snap into a magnetic screwdriver. This style tiny bit ratchet is available at almost all auto parts stores (cheap and a life saver).
Nope, little different. The Diverter valve serve to divert boost pressure back to the compressor inlets, when the throttle is cut under boost (you let off the gas when you were accelerating). This avoids compressor stall and hesitation in boost recovery.
Hey bud- so the part I used by Pierburg is the actual company that makes the part for Audi. The cost from ecstuning.com is 50 bucks. But, a shop will charge 1-2 hours labor even thought it only takes about 30 minutes to replace. If i had to guess, you'd probably be charged 175-250 including the part... More than that is an enourmous rip off. All you really need to do the job is a set ramps (50 to 75 bucks), flathead screw driver to release the belly pan fasteners, a 1/4" wratchet, 2-3" long 1/4" extension, and a 1/4", T30 torx bit. (Some people call them a star bit).
nicktech360 thanks for the reply, i have a 2005 1.8t b6 so its a different part, what i don't know is if, they're the same location. im getting the p0299 code so with either the dv or the whole turbo. damn German cars, incredibly appealing but too damn complicated.
Volkswagen Jetta 1.4 Tsi Same Diverter Valve?
Thank you so much for this. Bought a 2010 a4 and got this code the next day 🥺🥺
They probably erased the code so the light goes away
@@TradersHub7 yeah i thought so too
@@abbasammar210 did it fix your code? I also have a 2010 and replaced the DV and still got the code :/
@@tubbycustard8866 lol i haven’t found anyone to do it for me yet 😭
@@abbasammar210 well thankfully it's a code you can still drive with lmaoo, if you have the proper tools its totally doable on your own to replace the DV
Thanks so much for the video man. Thought I was gonna be in the hole 3 grand for a new turbo. One part order and a 2 hr fix without a mechanic and we rolling again. Holla👊😎👊
You got it man. Its all worth it for this type of feedback. Appreciate that.
Thanks for the video. I own a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T with the same code (P0299). I took it to AutoZone for a free check engine light diagnosis and the proposed solution (from the print out) was to change the Turbocharger Boost Solenoid. In this video, you mentioned bad diverter valve. It looks like these two conditions can set off the same code. How did you come up with the conclusion that it's a bad diverter valve and not the solenoid was the issue?
Ahmed that's a great question. Since I had the code for boost pressure regulation, and I knew of the faulty diverter valves, I went right for removing the diverter valve to inspect the rubber bladder that I show in this video. They say, the turbo boost solenoids are much less common to fail. I personally had one B7 2.0t S-line, that had 203kmi and never had to replace that solenoid.
Thank you for this video man!! I bought a OBD2 scanner and had this problem. Audi was charging 300 just to check and probably wanted 2k to 3k to replace the whole turbo.
Going uphill will slow my A5 down and the check engine light would appear. Definitely gonna work on it now
D C hey man, how did it work out for you? Any updates?
Hi mate, I’ve got an a3 1.4 tfsi 8p and I’ve checked the diverted valve but it’s already got the new one in! The engine light comes up on but doesn’t seem to effect it although in general, the car boosts and then in 5th and 6th gear hits sort of like a flat spot and then goes as if it’s gone from a 1.4 turbo to just a 1.4 until I reset the car and carry on going🙄keep clearing the codes but it keeps coming back as I thought clear the code and see if it comes back and it has come back, multiple times....any ideas please? Thankyou in advance👍🏽
Tom does it have any trouble with keeping a smooth idle? Find out what those codes are in the ECU which is throwing off the CEL and let me know.
just want to thank you!!! i went to the dealership and was told i most likely needed a new turbocharger ($2800-3200) on my 2011 A4 with 82k. i am female and older (don't look like a mechanic) soooo considering your youtube video sounds like they were going to charge me 3000$ for a 100$part. you are a hero:-)
Comments like that make it all worth it. Thank you for your feedback Pamela.
What problems was the car having
@@MidknightMechanics have the same issue, light went on p0299 underboost. Been driving fine for 3000 miles, audi mechanic said sounds like new turbocharger needed, seems crazy to me if driving fine, any ideas?
@@raoulduke3894 For some reason, i didn't get a notification about this comment. How is the car running now?
Wish me good luck!
I am switching this diverter valve today
Praying this is the only problem that's needed to fix that engine check light.
I don’t have money now. Can I use meanwhile?
Yes you can.
My 08 audi jerks when I accelerate and when I go uphill. You think this is the same cause? Stupid me went to audi and told me to replace the whole turbo.
Absolutely could be, or a tear in an intercooler hose, or loosened hose clamp on an intercooler hose.
Thanks for the tip I'll definitely look into that.
Just replaced the DV. Sadly, my car still have the same issue. Replaced waste gate, cleaned the MAF. Any ideas or suggestion?
How did you loosen the screws? Im trying to replace mine i a have q5 its not much room to go maneuver around! How were able to loosen them up?
Hey Mike, I used a 1/4" drive ratchet, with a small extension, and a 1/4", 6 point socket to hold the small (I think T30) bit. Which means I had to electrical tape the bit so it wouldn't fall out of the 1/4" socket (I used one of those tiny, maybe 3/4" long bits that some screwdrivers can magnetically hold). I had to do this because of the clearance you spoke of. I wish I could send you a picture! Send me an email if you need a pic. You should be able to go to my "about" page and find my contact information.
Midknight Mechanics thank you so much this is very helpful!! Will let you know if i have a success on mine!! Appreciate it very much!!
Does it sound like a boost leak? Like hearing the turbo whoosh noise? And also does it throw a maf code?
Does that make your car jerk&hesitate when you hit the gas?
Yes, that is a side effect absolutely
@@MidknightMechanics Thank you very much. 👍
I know this post is from awhile ago... but i am having similar issues. I already have the new and improved Diverter Valve in, no boost leaks, just replaced PCV and the hoses. But my CEL comes on every once in awhile saying code P0299 but then itll go away. Turbo sounds weird at high RPM's sorta like its sputtering? I've kinda leaned towards the engine HPFP being bad..
Unfortunately it's possible dont blame it just yet. Grab yourself a new cam follower and o-ring, only 3 torx hold down the HPFP, and theres just 1 electrical connector if i remember correctly. With age they say fuel can slip by the seals inside the pump and burn from high temps & friction and turn to carbon. You should be able to see evidence of it. Send me an email to my UA-cam handle which is my gmail- I'll show you how mine looked before I replaced it.
Did it your car though a code for running to lean?
James- only the code i show in the video from Ross-Tech.
the heart of these audi's is that quattro trannny, things are a Beast!!! i dont ever get stuck in snow, or hills, Audi For life!!!!
I just replaced my diverter valve and still low power acceleration. What should i do ?? Replace my turbo???
ese what are your check engine codes?
@@MidknightMechanicsonly code showing up is p0299. What should i do
I change diverter valve and check engine came out after 50 miles, what can i do?
What's the code Ernesto!?
@@MidknightMechanics same PO299
I just changed mine out thanks to your video, it seems to have the power back but my question is, do you have to manually reset the CEL with a scanner? When i started it up the CEL was still present so i cleared it. I drove it on the freeway and got it and the light still hasn't came on. Do you think the CEL will come back on some time later or was that the fix? I did purchase the same part you recommended from ECS..
Going to replace this today as i am getting the code for boost regulation, i hope the turbo did not go bad!
Christian did it take care of the code/issue?
Does this method work for 2003 A4 Audi Quattro?
If it's a 1.8t, sure does man. Just different part numbers, and part looks a bit different.
Hi ! Ihave this code P0299. is this valve inside the VW 2.0 crdti? 2009 production, BCC engine?
What symptoms does it do
Coughs under acceleration...slow acceleration, if it's an automatic it will shift gears funny/hard.
I wish if you showed us the way to take it and replace it, because it seems very hard to do
Sorry my friend. During this video I had an A6 4.2 on the lift, in the middle of a transmission swap. I had no easy way to actually film this swap from start to finish. Its actually not as intimidating as you would expect, i still 100% encourage you to try it on your own. Please know I will be here on standby for you, or simply send me an email. For prep, just make sure you have your small hand tools in order like the Torx I mention in the video.
@@MidknightMechanics is there any part or line that need to be removed to gain more access to the top screw? And thanks again
@@sofhero6079 Nope, just that one electrical harness. Remember the trick with VW/Audi harness is to push IN first, then pry the tab with your finger/nail, and then pull the plug off. When you push in first, it takes the pressure off the tab, so it can easily release. This is the case for almost all of the VW/Audi electrical harnesses.
@@MidknightMechanics thanks man
I took my 2013 a6 2.o turbo for a recall for a software update and once I drove out of the dealership the check engine light came on. brought it back and they said it was this code p0299. the turbo was lagging and not working. 3 days later the light came off by itself and turbo is back on with no issue. can the software update for the intercooler affect the turbo computer and sensor ? never heard a turbo noise or a leak
Great video question is it ok to drive with a bad diverter valve until the new one comes in.
Yes, but as long as it's not any kind of extended period of time (more than a couple weeks, etc).
@@MidknightMechanics thanks
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro, this is the 3rd time in less than a year that I have replaced the DV and I still get the P0299 code. What I think that makes this unique is that when the car is running cool, it's a beast! But as soon as its up to running temperature its pure sluggish. I notice that when the P0299 does come on its usually on some type of incline (me going up hill), or merging on to the highway. I hit the gas and it doesn't do anything. Again when its cold, its a beast. But as soon as it warms up this happens. I have been finding multiple answer for P0299 , MAFS, PCV, Cat, this video. But Im thinking that the temperature issue might help diagnose it further. I read that it could be a leak somewhere because of the metal expanding when its hot. Still not sure. Oh and after an oil change at about 3,000 miles i get a low oil light. and then I add a quart.
Please help if you can. I love the car and it normally drives great, but this acceleration issue is a pain in the ass. thanks again!
Frank, unfortunately the 2.0T's are well known for burning oil in between oil changes. Early on, VAG had recalled many of the 2.0's for it. I knew of 2 owners that had entire engine's replaced under the recall. My 07 2.0t that I no longer have, would be down a quart right around 4,000 miles. I would just add a quart and it would be fine until my next oil change, since i did them every 5,500. Audi sent out an updated memorandum saying the actual capacity for the 2.0t engine was 4.8 quarts including the filter change- i think this was to compensate for the burning oil. If you check your manual- it was less, printed saying 4.3 or 4.5 if i remember correct. From how you described the sluggish performance- I wouldn't rule out the MAF, but it usually takes serious miles for a MAF to die. I've replaced one at 130k ish on a Volvo once, but it ran like total crap cold and warm when it happened. Other people have had your issue on a 2.0t and it turned out to be a stuck valve in the turbo. It won't be a classic vacuum leak because it should still happen when it's cold... Also have you already had the car smoke tested for vac leaks? I'm sure you didn't replace those DV's with another rubber diaphragm style, right-
Same with me. When I'm going uphill and it hits spring n summer this code will appear. It starts to slow down the car.
@@isoccerpluse any update
Any update
Hello first off thanks for the video. I just purchased the same car. And not even 5 mins down the road the cars check engine light came on. So i stopped by autozone long story short car is throwing that code P0299 & P0420. Would you say its the DV value. Thanks
How many miles my friend
@@MidknightMechanics 145xxx
Its not smoking or missing
I own a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Turbo. I'm having a very hard time breaking the top nuts loose due to the location. I'm thinking about removing the oil line (connected to the engine) for better access to the diverter valve. Do you think this is a good idea? Any idea of the torx bits size to these oil line nuts?
Any idea why my ‘10 2.0t turbo is whining?
Assffggfdffeddeehwe bad turbo
JUAN fuck my life. Thank you tho!
It is a good video, I have the exact same problem, and I was told to replace the diverter valve, so I did. However, I am still getting the same code. Check engine light turns up when I go faster. Then I took it to advanced autoparts to see what is the problem, and it is stil showing the P0299 code. Is there anything else I could try? Thank you
I have the same code still need to see if its my DV getting it replaced this weekend. also it can probally be the wastegate which cant be replaced you'll need a whole new turbo which would run about 500$ who knows how much to install it.
I have a question Yeldos how did the car run before you installed the DV?
steady check engine light stays on constantly ---- dam your're good!! thank you so much for this, my problem should be solved after getting that new quality diverter ..i have a 2003 A4 1.8L Turbo Charge Quattro , so i should be ok, yes? .. oh, and how much will it cost? im not a car genius like you, so will have to pay a mechanic.
When replacing the diverter valve for the 2.0t, did any of you all had problems with clearance to unscrew the 3 bolts? I'm having problems, did you guys disconnect anything to get proper clearance to get out the 3 bolts? Any help will be appreciate :)
vini110- nothing removed for clearance but you are right, it's super tight. I used a 1/4 wratchet and an even smaller bit wratchet, that is made to hold just the small 3/4inch long torx bit
thanks for the advice, will try to source for an smaller bit wratchet. no luck at home depot.
Hi. I have 2010 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro. I had Diverter valve and turbo boost solenoid replaced as my car center wanted. However, it did not solve the problem. My mpg is about 12~14 mpg, significantly low. Now, the service center is telling me that they need to replace catalytic and wastegate. (NOT Audi dealership). The turbo seems to work at high rpm but just underboosting. IF the turbo itself is not causing the problem, what else can be in your opinion? I just want to get normal mpg so i dont waste huge amount of gas.
Same problem on my s3. Did you manage to fix it?
wastegate goes bad, and its riveted shut, so you cant replace it without replacing the entire turbo
Would this cause the car to have trouble going up hills I have the same code
Absolutely it would. Anytime the car needs to go into boost (accelerating)
@@MidknightMechanics thank you I have a new turbo on there but I noticed lately it's been having trouble especially when goin up hills not on flat ground but I do have a p0299 code
How did u know it was diverter like what test did u do to figure this out? Some videos on UA-cam with same code r saying it’s a hose and they show the leak some are saying it’s the turbo / a part on the turbo which they heat up and hammer on which can fix the leak inside the turbo ( they aren’t hitting the turbo but a part on it ) basically question is what test did u do to figure out it was the diverter like specified ca actual boost log or ?
Hey Notorious. It was the symptoms i had, under boost- like a vacuum leak- (boost leak) and the codes I pulled from ross-tech. The other thing is, I knew this car did not have the upgraded diverter valve yet because of my length of ownership. Do you know the history of the car? Turbo's failing is not common unless oil changes were abused. You can easily pull the intercooler hose off that turbo, and pinch the shaft and try to wiggle it, to see how bad the play is.
@@MidknightMechanics I don’t believe my car has got the updated diverter I’ve owned it for 3 years she’s from Huston Texas but she lives in Alberta Canada now and oil changes I do pretty often but my Audi burns/leaks oil so every 2,000km I have fill the engine back up with oil only use synthetic 5-40w I’m praying it the diverter can’t afford a new turbo.. I never had the issue once in 3 years and I drove it hard a lot at nights usually 2-3 hours in the summer and I just got eurodyne tune suppose to add 55Hp 90LB of torque drove the car from the shop in Calgary to my city 2 hours away did a pull and boom she got p0299 ⚠️
THANK YOU
Is it also causing EPC light on ?
Nope.
Could a faulty diverter cause a light to come on for turbocharger underboosted?
Or could low oil level cause that light to come on?
Thanks for the video. Did you actually experience any difference in the drivetrain?
Hey Eddie. Yes I sure did, it just had much more boost when laying into the throttle. Also, before the replacement if you floored the car, it would start to create boost and then cough, badly.
Midknight Mechanics I hope I’ll experience some change once I replace mine in my ‘10 A4 Prestige Quattro 2.0L
My timing chain stretched and threw code p0016 buy also a code for p0299..very hard to start and low power at slower speeds but ran fine at hwy speeds..the mechanic said my turbo is fine, it was the timing chain issue causing this code on turbo..what are your thoughts? 2012 audi a5 2.0
Troy are you sure it stretched? Usually the hydraulic tensioner fails prematurely and lets the chain skip on the gears. There is an Audi TSB for this issue- TSB-15-09-04 Use this page from Ross Tech for verification :forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?4812-Audi-Volkswagen-2-0L-Chain-Drive-P0016-Cam-Crank-correlation-check
Midnight mechanics the audi repair facility did say the tensioner failed causing chain to jump several teeth. They are replacing tensioner, guides, chain etc..$2100 due to being very labor intensive.
What if I get this code but I have a steel blowoff valve aka "forgesplitter"?
Rob that still didn't take the place of the diverter valve, correct?
@@MidknightMechanics I believe it did. I don't know I didn't install it I just took it out and cleaned it. I thought it was a direct replacement for a diverter valve but for ricers like me.
Would this be the same procedure in an 2011 A4 2.0T?
Yes it is!
I wish you had shown how to unplug the connector...for the world of me, I can’t figure it out...I’ve tried about everything, and I don’t want to snap it off.
Rich can you email me? Find my contact by going to my "about" page. You just need to push forward (hard), then use your thumb to pry back on the tab on the connecter, then unplug.
Did your car missfire when the happened
Sure did.
@@MidknightMechanics thank you I think this will fix mine now cheers man
Thanks for the video keep it up!!!
Is that similar to the 665 fault code which states: Boost Pressure Regulation Control Range Not Reached sporadic?
How hard is it to get the screws out and back in? What tool did you use?
Not very easy Joe. I had to use a 45-degree right angle adapter to spin them out, and a micro quarter inch (bit) ratchet with the Torx in it, OR 1/4 ratchet with little 2" extension, and torx bit on that setup.
@@MidknightMechanics Can you please take a pic of these tools that you used along with its brand names? You can email it to me at kaysix0@gmail.com or phone (267)971-5328. The right angle adapter that Ip found was for a power tool. I'm wandering if I can use this tool in a ratchet type tool.
Unrelated question. I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0t Quattro with a cel that doesn't illuminate at startup. How can I fix this. All my other lights work
Tyrell your main, Check Engine MIL in the upper left (just like in my video) on the cluster doesn't come on/light up at all with the key in position 2? That's a cluster out type deal to replace the bulb that is in charge of that specific warning lamp.
No it doesn't come on at all. I was told on a 2006 audi a4 2.0t quattro that it's an led light and I have to replace the whole cluster. Is that true?
check if someone can code it first
Wait is I️ got that code but I️ have the b6 is that still the same thing that I️ should replace because that part looks different for the b6?
Does that have to do with the acceleration of the car I have a 2010 Audi a4t?
Daniel Arteaga yes it does, directly related to boost during acceleration
I have a6 3.0 2010 the eninge check shows ,when i put the key in, but when the engine is on it doesn't show car runs month oil got change and doesn't make no noise 106miles on it 🤔 what can't the problem
My friend- if i understand your question correctly, the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on when you turn the ignition on, put after you start the car, the CEL goes out and stays out? That's exactly how modern cars work. Jump in another vehicle if you can - you'll see the same thing happen. You only need to worry if the CEL stays on, after the engine is running, or if the CEL blinks (misfire) after the engine is running.
Is it supposed to slow the car like the power?
What they do is let excess boost/air pressure bleed off, when the throttle plate is closed after being in boost. This keeps the boost from going back into the turbo which cause compressor surge, which can damage the turbbo. So basically a "DV" is there to prevent the turbo from killing itself.
how often do you have to change the new style (piston) diverter valve?
SwervinMad- Couldn't tell you exactly. I put 80,000 miles on the piston style DV, on my previously owned 07 2.0t with APR tune. The piston style will for sure outlast the diaphragm style. I would doubt 120k+ miles. This of course depends if you are running higher boost or a tune on the car, which will be giving the DV more of a workout.
What tools did you attached to the T30 to remove the three screws? I'm having a hard time accessing that location.
My smallest 1/4" ratchet with an adapter that went from 1/4 to 3/8's to fit the T30. Also I used a tiny ratchet that is a bit holding ratchet- the style bits that are only about 1/2" long that normally snap into a magnetic screwdriver. This style tiny bit ratchet is available at almost all auto parts stores (cheap and a life saver).
is this the same thing as the turbo wastegate?
Nope, little different. The Diverter valve serve to divert boost pressure back to the compressor inlets, when the throttle is cut under boost (you let off the gas when you were accelerating). This avoids compressor stall and hesitation in boost recovery.
thanks. looks like i just bought an a5 with a bad wastegate :-(
That's ok man, they are not too expensive, unless you have to pay someone to swap it. They are about 80-100 bucks off eBay for an OEM used unit.
for the wastegate or the turbo? can you send a link?
Just the WG. ebay.com
how much will this roughly cost at a mechanic shop, k would love to do it my self but i have next to no equipment to do so.
Hey bud- so the part I used by Pierburg is the actual company that makes the part for Audi. The cost from ecstuning.com is 50 bucks. But, a shop will charge 1-2 hours labor even thought it only takes about 30 minutes to replace. If i had to guess, you'd probably be charged 175-250 including the part... More than that is an enourmous rip off. All you really need to do the job is a set ramps (50 to 75 bucks), flathead screw driver to release the belly pan fasteners, a 1/4" wratchet, 2-3" long 1/4" extension, and a 1/4", T30 torx bit. (Some people call them a star bit).
nicktech360 thanks for the reply, i have a 2005 1.8t b6 so its a different part, what i don't know is if, they're the same location. im getting the p0299 code so with either the dv or the whole turbo. damn German cars, incredibly appealing but too damn complicated.
Does the A6 2.0t 2007 have a diverter valve i cant seem to find it