Richard Raffan on gouges for turning bowls
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- Опубліковано 5 січ 2022
- Richard Raffan demonstrates several differnt gouges that can be used for turning bowls.
For in-depth explanations of the tools and techniques you need to refer to Richard Raffan’s woodturning books and videos. www.richardraffan.com.au/book...
No preamble, attempt's at humor or endless beside the point commentary, just good solid to the point information and tips from a master wood turner. Thank you Richard 👍👍
Outstanding, unpretentious, clear, practical, detailed, no nonsense or irritating music
Thank you so much
Thank you Richard for posting your work. Nothing better then watching a pro and getting a pros advice. More valuable then any book I’ve read
You clearly didn't read the righ books, Matt!! www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
Thank you Richard for these fantastic videos. They are an endless source of knowledge immortalised.
Without a doubt the best video available demonstrating exactly how gouges cut. The video angles and the clear instruction are fantastic. I've watched it over and over and likely will many more times. I've learned so much from you Richard and can't thank you enough!
Oh wow... WOW!!!! I learned to turn from your books and videos back in the day 30+ years ago!! You have been a hero to me Mr. Raffan and an excellent teacher. No one is more practical.. Everyone teaching turning today is compared to you and your style and most come up a little short.
Thousands of boxes, spice bowls, platters, trivets et al later I'm still just a beginner..
Thank you again for your inspiration, skill and generosity. So great to see you on UA-cam!!!!
Hi Richard, I an fairly new to turning, I am finding your videos so helpful, it is good that you can play them over and over again, because take awhile to fully grasp things. Cheers Garry
Stillnapie , I’ve been turning for well over 20 years and some days I think I’ve almost moved up to intermediate level. But yeah, still really a beginner here.
I always learn something new when I watch (and rewatch) your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Richard.
One of the best videos on UA-cam about bowl gouges and alternatives.
Lots of ways to use them .
Looking forward to more of knowledge from you😀
I really got a lot from the addition of those overhead shots. You can really see how you're presenting the tool wing and bevel, and the direction you're pointing it. These videos are such an invaluable resource. Thanks!
I always enjoy watching a master at work. Thank you Richard.
Thank you very much turned for nearly 40 years and just learnt answers to problems that have plagued me for years
Just watched this again from the link in today's video. Thank you for confirming what I thought, at 17:50, that in step jaws, the bottom of the tenon, if true, can sit on the face of the next lower step.
Invaluable information & demonstration for this newbe. Thanks for sharing.
❤ Valuable information for a beginner well done 👍
Think SIR! Think you very much! There's so many videos on this subject right now. But you SIR have helped me very much. Can't tell you what it means to Me to have you SIR as our instructor. 😊
You have to mention this is wet wood
All very good explained for beginners, cheers ans respects
Thank you so much for the videos Richard, I've been a big consumer of them and appreciate the time you (and others) take to make these videos to teach us.
Thank you, Richard - another fantastic video. I'm really enjoying all of them!
This a great instructional video. I feel I’ve learnt such a lot from it and can’t wait to get out to the workshop to give it a go. Thank you !
Great demo, great video, tools perfectly explained and skillfully demonstrated, learnt a lot!
Thank you for this demonstration using various gouges!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Wonderful and a great companion to your bowl video.
I felt like I just attended a master class on gouges. Thank-you.
I rewatched my homework
Thank You so much! your a great teacher, enjoy watching and learning from you, your great Blessing to those that are hungry to learn.
great video! thanks Richard. Regards from Spain
Very informative. I really enjoyed the video. Thank you for sharing. Have a blessed day.
Wonderfully illustrated!! Thank you!!
Great video. Thank you.
Awesome teaching Mr Richard thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge..
Your knowledge is invaluable. Thank you 🙏.
Great video Richard, lots of useful tips...thanks...Cheers
hello friends greetings healthy and successful always. Thank you for sharing knowledge and always faithfully watching your latest stuff.
Great video, thanks very much for posting.
you taught me a lot thank you ,,mark in england
My favorite part is when you do it one handed and point with your pencil while cutting haha very impressive
Thank you Richard. I have subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos. I haven't turned anything for many years (8th grade shop). I picked up a smaller older lathe I intend to refurbish.
Thanks. I have. They did not know the answer either!
Great stuff, thanks for sharing+++++++
Hi Richard,
Absolutely love your demonstrations. Very clear and informative in a way I have not seen others manage. Could I request that your camera man comes back on the close ups so we can see the hands so we can get a feel for that aspect of the tool control. Please keep it coming. I can feel my skills expanding as a result of these videos or at least my desire to go do something on my own lathe. Thanks again.
Enlightening. This is tooledge science 101!
So you feel a flat shoulder for the chucking point is not as necessary as most people say?
Richard, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and always gain, both in knowledge and technique, however, I have often wondered about your use of assymetric grinds for your tools. Is there a video explaining this that I can search out and watch?
Thanks
Great improvement in the voice department. Must be new software/mic.
Do you ever bring up the tail stock when rough turning a bowl?
Wow. Absolutely fascinating. Thank You 🙏 and I don’t even have a lathe 🤣
Very interesting video, I definitely learned some things and have questions on other things.
Any chance you'll do a video on how you determine your tenon/mortise? I've always heard you can't let your tenon bottom out in the chuck for safety reasons and because it wouldn't run true, but you had no issues.
Great video all around, thank you!
I'll be making a video on mechanical chucks, and another on jam chucks. If your tenon is trued and the end flat to concave it should fit square into a chuck. I never expand a chuck in a mortice/rebate if I can avoid it. Gripping around a foot or tenon always provideds a superior grip whilst providing you with more design options.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning awesome, looking forward to more of your videos!
Hi Richard. Your explanation of the gouge cutting edges is very helpful. I did have one question though - I've always been told that a tenon shouldn't hit the bottom of a chuck, otherwise the top edge of the jaws will not correctly seat on the bowl, and the jaws should seat against a flat surface. Are you saying it's not a big deal to have the tenon hit the bottom of the chuck? Thanks
Depends on the chuck. If a chuck is flat across the base and the tenon is turned flat, then the blank should seat properly in the chuck. Problems arise when the jaws dig into wood of varying density and pull the blank off center.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks. Your videos are excellent and it's great to see them all in one place, like all your books on my bookshelf. 🙂 Hopefully get to see you in person one day.
Thanks Richard, very helpful. Can you explain the benefits or not of a more v shaped flute versus the more round flute? Thanks and cheers from MT USA.
When turning a profile a more open flute lets the shaving get away faster, whereas with some narrow deep fluted tools shavings can jam tight in the flute, especially when turning green timber. When hollowing you generally need a deep fluted tool for strength, especially when well over the rest. The Henry Taylor/Hamlet Super Flute is widely regarded as the best of the bowl-gouge profiles and then that is modified by the shape of the edge and bevel applied to the basic profile.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you Richard, that makes sense and really helps.
Surprised to see you use an SRG for this since we tell everyone to never use an SRG on a bowl tho yours had a more continental rather than a square grind. Is it a solid bar rather than a tang style so it's stronger than today's SRG?
The 1-in./25mm shallow gouge is from the 1930s with a tapered tang, and never used until now. It was my father's. As a novice in 1970-71 I used similar Sorby gouges for a year or so because they were one quarter the price of a deep-fluted bowl gouge. Catching an unsupported edge was traumatic, but I also got 10-meter long shavings to drape around the workshop and I learnt a lot about slicing. Deep-fluted roughing gouges should never be used for facework and I don't have any.
How do you achieve the asymmetric grind? Did you make a jig or is it done free hand?
I do it freehand ua-cam.com/video/idB-z6--FAs/v-deo.html. Matt Lewis has developed a jig but has yet to find a manufacturer willing to take it on.
Great video. Glad to have someone show you can turn a bowl with a spindle gouge. I've been wanting to turn some bobbins for my wifes spinning wheel and I've been making drop spindles. Alot of videos on youtube on bowls and platters demonize spindle gouges and its always bowl gouge. bowl gouge, Bowl Gouge.
Is it OK, if I ReSharper my carbide cutters? Or should I buy new ones?
I use traditional turning tools because they do a better job more efficiently than any carbide cutters I've encountered. Consequently I'd never recommend using carbide tools to turn wood other inside enclosed forms.
I use the Wolverine sharpening system and get a symmetrical grind, will it work? How pronounced should the convex edge on the wings be? Thanks for another informative video. Now if I can just Re bear all the techniques when I go out to the shop tomorrow. Cheers, Tom
A symmetric grind will work but you'll present the gouge slightly differently. JIgs tend to produce a shorter and steeper bevel than I like on the left wing. A long near straight wing is much more grabby, whereas the covex curve shaving not as wide but thicker. The advantage of hand-grinding is that you can better control and vary the bevel angle. You'll see that in the sharpening a bowl gouge video.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks. I started turning pens using Easy Wood Tools carbide tools and over the last year + have been learning to use traditional tools. It was a rough transition, especially since I had trouble keeping the tools sharp until I lucked into a complete Rikon/Wolverine system at an auction. I’ve tried freehand grinding with little /no success. I in the running to buy a box lot of turning tools in an online auction and if successful to get the one Thompson bowl gouge with a 20” heavy handle, the box contained another six various gouges that will be practice tools. Hopefully I’ll be able to perfect my freehand sharpening skills. Thanks for the informative videos. I’m just getting started on going through your UA-cam video list. Cheers, Tommy
How do you dry them Richard? Bag them in shavings? Do you seal the end grain? Just wondering what you do.
Thanks for sharing. Been a big fan for decades.
You're meaning roughed bowls? Very basically, as a production bowl turner I used woods known for their stability like ash (whilst still in Britain), then jarrah, redgum, Tasmanain myrtle, and claret ash (in Australia). Really green bowls are put in a pile out of the sun for a few days to let the surface dry off, then into boxes for at least 6 months but preferably much longer. There's quite a bit about the whole process in Turning Bowls.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I will check it out. Thank you sir.
Wow.
Do you mostly turn green wood?
Seasoned timber suitable for bowls is virtually unobtainable, so as a bowl turner I rough turn all logs as soon as possible to get the most out of a log before it splits. If I'm fortunate enough to get green timber that's known to warp dramatically, then I'll make my Wavy Bowls and Tripod bowls. www.richardraffan.com.au/bowls-turned-green/ Mostly I've used timber that's relatively stable that I rough-turned green then re-turned when dry, usually several years later. Endgrain boxes are always turned from air-dried blanks at least five years seasoned.
Do you teach turning classes?
Only in Canberra now. For 35 years I spent a couple of months teaching mostly in North America and Europe, but at 78 I'm no longer up to the long days of hands-on workshops and all-day demos. If you're in Canberra email me through www.richardraffan.com.au.
Hi Richard. I'm very new at this but I have learned to never use spindle tools on bowls. You don't seem to follow that logic in this video though. Is the grain in this bowl oriented differently than usual?
It's deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges that are not recommended for facework. Deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges are designed specifically for roughing centrework blanks with grain lying parallel to the lathe axis. Deep-fluted bowl gouges are designed for hollowing bowls where strength is required working well over the rest.
Since 1970 I’ve used spindle gouges for turning bowl profiles. You don’t need the strength of a deep/fluted bowl gouge working close to the rest, so using a less expensive tool when the cut is close to the rest makes sense, at least to me.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning It makes sense, thank you!