SMD Soldering - Common Packages
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- Опубліковано 9 чер 2024
- SMD Soldering - Hand Soldering - Common Packages : Resistor Array, SOT23-6, SOT23-3, SOT89, SOT223, TO252 (DPAK), TO263 (D2PAK), TO263-5, Mini PushButton, Crystal HC49, Aluminum Capacitor, Power Inductor
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Flux is a beautiful thing :)
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No, honestly, this is THE BEST suface mount tutorial I have found. Thanks!
The best SMD tutorial I have ever seen -- thank you!
Awesome! This video reassured me it's not that hard to solder those parts at all!
Thanks for this demo. I was confused about the pin 2 stub on a D2PAK. This cleared it up.
Thank you so much for this tutorial
I've just soldered my first smd 6-leg to an adapter board, and it works wonderful. Even I don't have a microscope, just magnifing glasses.
حح
I can say that after 19 years of practicing electronics my solders are like these congratulations, and I don't know about you, but I love it when someone tries to identify which component I changed and can't 😂😂😂.
I don’t know what’s so satisfying about this
Soldering has become artwork
Delightful music, perfectly soldered pads... This must be heaven 🤤♥️
Really nice soldering .. very therapeutic!
Best focus I've ever seen! Wow
Very beautiful soldering!
You make those components look huge and easy to solder. I don't see the too much solder on components myself. Looks like just the right amount to me.
Digital microscope
use liquid solder
Using the appropriate sized tip and solder helps to make neat joints.
Very clear and straight forward Thanks so much!
Awesome work man! video is amazing!
Thanks for this. As a beginner, its not obvious which SMD packages can easily be soldered without special equipment.
Nice skill, really learned a lot from it, thanks for the video :)
*Une démonstration vraiment efficace ! Merci*
Idk why but this video is so satisfying
Everything according to Pace basic soldering lessons. It's a pleasure to watch! So relaxing =)
therapeutic!
You’re an artist!!
very useful, thank you for this video!
Nice soldering with a good and professionel job
👏 looks so effortlessly 😍
Wow andro you are the best
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excellent video friend! congratulations please continue generating more content of soldering and desoldering with captive! Many students of electronics for economic limitations can not buy heat station! I already subscribed to your channel very successful and greetings from Caracas Venezuela!
Your Flux pate is excellent.
Androkavo congratulations, beautiful pictures. Could you do SMD desoldering - Common Packages?
Good Job! Master!
very good work! thank for sharing!
Thanks genius. Great jobs
Very fine work
Nice jobs 👏👏👏👏👏
Keep calm and watch this guy soldering stuff.
those compand that have plastic support hard to solder it like Aluminum Capacitor in 10:09 and Power Inductor , need more time to verify if it's stick or not
Excellente vidéo ,bravo
This are my new satisfaction video
6:33 I thought I was watching TIG welding for a while lol
…0
Excellent. Thanks.
Wahoo vary nice soldring
Very entertaining and amazing trade
So much fun watching an amateur doing stuff I've been doing for 35 years.
Those are some beautiful solder connections. I love how they stay silver and smooth after cooling down. Must be the flux covering the surface, and having everything clean, and a good temperature on the soldering iron.
It’s like an visual ASMR
Thank you for the work, it is therapeutic to watch. However, I would like to point out some issues with the soldering process: first, your iron's thermal recovery is not fast enough. It takes quite some time to heat up DPAK/DDPAK tabs, and that's a sign of slow thermal recovery. This could be worse if you use lead free solder. Second, it's not recommended to push the parts down with a tweezer while soldering. You should allow natural solder standoff height. You can do this with low mass components like chip resistors and chip capacitors as well as some small chip diodes. For an inductor, you should allow for some standoff. The reason is that the standoff height serves as a stress relief, and it absorbs the impact during an external shock. If there's no enough standoff, the bonding interface will have to take more shock energy and fail.
the only reason he uses the tweezers is to stop the component from moving, though i do agree with you on those points.
I think that holding the IC with tweezers helps to dissipate heat and avoids burning the chip
Well, 1. it would be very hard to keep still the part otherwise, and 2. you can solder one leg this way, then put away the tweezers and proceed with other legs, and 3. maybe you're over complicating this simple process? (plus we didn't see how he solders the inductors, maybe he indeed uses a different technique).
I mean I do this for a living and i've never had an issue with a repaired component such as an IC chip or a large aluminum capacitor having joint strength issues when pressed down on while being soldered
What about if you shut the fuck up and do the video ?
It's not soldering... It's an art 🎨 😍🌹
Masterful 👍
Not necessary to go back and re-heat the joint multiple times. Just stresses the semiconductor unnecessarily. Nice joints but too much heat.
I agree with Roger
Roger Onslow could you point to an example in the video, at what point in time did you see this? I am new to the process.
@@cdevidal e.g. at minute 5:20 when soldering the D2PAK regulator
I wonder why he did it
Просто приятно посмотреть
Класс!
Отличная работа!
parfect soldring
Сильный мелкоскоп! Красавец.
Делал такой же из вебки ноутбука с перевернутой линзой от мобилки.
Nice video
Im amazed the amount of times Androkavo reflows the solder. If the components still work I will be surprised. Plus some joints have a bit too much solder. Remember that puts stress on the joints.
dont be dramatic m8
Awesome!
Nice soldering there, but I do prefer flux core solder myself.
Thank you.
Bom muito bom, valeu.
It´s So satisfying to wach! thank you, by the way, what microscope did you use in this video?
Good information
Superb video as usual! BTW, how do you manage to get rid of 100% dust on your components?
Very pleasant to look at. Except you were trying to do high thermal mass components like D2PAK and inductor too fast. Unless the the metal heats up properly, solder won't adhere to it well. So let the soldering iron dwell on the component for some time.
Wow so perfect
Still didn´t reach the SMD point, but I hope to do it soon!! But one thing is true, with the right tools its easier, anything!!
Thank you
What is correct temperature for soldering iron for SMD parts works?
mối hàn rất đẹp và chính xác
So satisfying
Very cool thx
no pre-tinning of the pads?
I’m curious why flux is consistently only applied one side and not both, before placing the package.
Excelente video! My friend, what kind of microscope do you use?
All this video is a good example of an inexperienced PCB engineer. The part lead should not cover the pad. There should always be room for solder.
Does solder get also under the part pads? Mainly in case of those big pads (e.g. DPAK, D2PAK, ..), doesn't it hold just by edges mostly?
This is the only soldering video I have seen that is actually correct in every way. I can't think of anything negative. Good job sir. Keep it up. I teach a power electronics design class at work and soon I will need to cover soldering techniques. Would you mind if I used this video?
Of course, you can embed my youtube videos link to your site/page/blog, it's feature of youtube. If use as offline, just credit source from my youtube channel : ua-cam.com/users/androkavo
Androkavo will do thank you
Well, look more carefully to DPACK & D2PACK power pad soldering. It is only touched at the edge and not soldered at all underneath. It may cause a lack of heat transfer from the component to the pad and potentially - a failure. Power pad should be soldered on whole surface.
Andr Sam you can see the solder flow under the chip just fine.
Yes, it is OK for a dummy board. If a large cooling area belongs to the to252's drain (or 263) it will be a little harder than setting up to 400C it should be preheated and and presoldered or need some solderpaste. if it's innolot....hard as hell. Oh i forgot the always suroundin 0402's and a bigger problem: solder mold contact. Failed on ipc class3
While you clean the flux using that liquid, do you used tissues to dried the liquid?
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Which solder did you use...? Looks like lead solder from being so shinny when cool.
what temperature did you use before the 350-400° for the larger dpak ones ? and what kind of tin / diameter?
I'm no expert, but I do a lot of desoldering to salvage parts and those packages with the heat sink pads, TO252, TO263, and TO263-5, usually have solder at the back of the heat pad, connecting the whole heat pad to the board. This just shows soldering the top edge of the heat pads. Wouldn't that affect the thermal conductivity to the board and lower heat dissipation? Again, I'm no expert, but I would place some solder paste at the back of the heat pad, so when soldering the top edge, the solder paste will melt and bond the whole pad to the board.
Music at 1:35 - 5:28 = "Still Alive", also known as "The Cake is a Lie". Different instrumentation, though.
BTW. very nice work, well done.
That sounds NOTHING like Still Alive from Portal.
Beautiful work Andro, what temperature do you set your iron at for the smaller components?, thanks
315°C, soldering as fast as possible
Androkavo thank you very much for your very swift reply, keep up the great work, look forward to more of your great videos
Androkavo sorry dude but you're soldering way too slow. Dwell time should be three seconds tops for the majority of components, and like others have commented you unnecessarily touch up most of your joints, which causes damage especially to semiconductors (weakens dies and will absolutely cause latent failures and lower efficiency). I recommend looking at IPC-J-STD-001. Also you have too much solder on most components, look at IPC-A-610. It would be really good for the community if you did another video fixing your mistakes.
Hi. Nice video. The liquid cleaner is alcohol?
What solder wire use you ?
Thanks for the video.
Best regards,
7:54 you can put MCN - XG50
Helpful
What's the iron temperatue? Would do you guys recommend for leaded tin? I feel like my flux is dissepating way too fast wioth 320°C
Anyone know what a similar tip to the 900M-T-2C is for a Hakko FX888-D?
The T18-CF2 looks similar, but a bit shorter (14.5mm vs 17mm)
great at beautiful
купил такую кисточку 12:10 удобная вещица, жаль что флюса такого как в видео не найти, или можно? Где продается? не подскажите?
So video is interesting.
Um.... Don't you need a chronical tip for for solder?
Все так аккуратно, что противно смотреть
Уххх)) красотища)))
why is no flux done in/on all areas? (everything fluxes in one go)
just under those big cool surfaces you must have good contact!
and exactly there you do not flux?
why?
BUT anyway thanks for the video anyway (it does have its uses!)
(I did not know which flux to buy on eBay, now I know!) ;-)
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
friend of how many watts is the soldering iron that you use for smd ?? of 25? 30? watts ??
Hi... I have a digital microscope that is what you used I suppose, but I dont have the software to project the view on my laptop anymore. Do you know of some good generic software I can use? (maybe the one you used for this video). Thanks 😉
БОЛЬШЕ! БОЛЬШЕ ФЛЮСА!!! ))