Thank you so much for this tutorial I've just soldered my first smd 6-leg to an adapter board, and it works wonderful. Even I don't have a microscope, just magnifing glasses.
I can say that after 19 years of practicing electronics my solders are like these congratulations, and I don't know about you, but I love it when someone tries to identify which component I changed and can't 😂😂😂.
Thank you for the work, it is therapeutic to watch. However, I would like to point out some issues with the soldering process: first, your iron's thermal recovery is not fast enough. It takes quite some time to heat up DPAK/DDPAK tabs, and that's a sign of slow thermal recovery. This could be worse if you use lead free solder. Second, it's not recommended to push the parts down with a tweezer while soldering. You should allow natural solder standoff height. You can do this with low mass components like chip resistors and chip capacitors as well as some small chip diodes. For an inductor, you should allow for some standoff. The reason is that the standoff height serves as a stress relief, and it absorbs the impact during an external shock. If there's no enough standoff, the bonding interface will have to take more shock energy and fail.
Well, 1. it would be very hard to keep still the part otherwise, and 2. you can solder one leg this way, then put away the tweezers and proceed with other legs, and 3. maybe you're over complicating this simple process? (plus we didn't see how he solders the inductors, maybe he indeed uses a different technique).
I mean I do this for a living and i've never had an issue with a repaired component such as an IC chip or a large aluminum capacitor having joint strength issues when pressed down on while being soldered
Those are some beautiful solder connections. I love how they stay silver and smooth after cooling down. Must be the flux covering the surface, and having everything clean, and a good temperature on the soldering iron.
those compand that have plastic support hard to solder it like Aluminum Capacitor in 10:09 and Power Inductor , need more time to verify if it's stick or not
Im amazed the amount of times Androkavo reflows the solder. If the components still work I will be surprised. Plus some joints have a bit too much solder. Remember that puts stress on the joints.
This is the only soldering video I have seen that is actually correct in every way. I can't think of anything negative. Good job sir. Keep it up. I teach a power electronics design class at work and soon I will need to cover soldering techniques. Would you mind if I used this video?
Of course, you can embed my youtube videos link to your site/page/blog, it's feature of youtube. If use as offline, just credit source from my youtube channel : ua-cam.com/users/androkavo
Well, look more carefully to DPACK & D2PACK power pad soldering. It is only touched at the edge and not soldered at all underneath. It may cause a lack of heat transfer from the component to the pad and potentially - a failure. Power pad should be soldered on whole surface.
Yes, it is OK for a dummy board. If a large cooling area belongs to the to252's drain (or 263) it will be a little harder than setting up to 400C it should be preheated and and presoldered or need some solderpaste. if it's innolot....hard as hell. Oh i forgot the always suroundin 0402's and a bigger problem: solder mold contact. Failed on ipc class3
excellent video friend! congratulations please continue generating more content of soldering and desoldering with captive! Many students of electronics for economic limitations can not buy heat station! I already subscribed to your channel very successful and greetings from Caracas Venezuela!
Very pleasant to look at. Except you were trying to do high thermal mass components like D2PAK and inductor too fast. Unless the the metal heats up properly, solder won't adhere to it well. So let the soldering iron dwell on the component for some time.
Eslam's Lab EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
why is no flux done in/on all areas? (everything fluxes in one go) just under those big cool surfaces you must have good contact! and exactly there you do not flux? why? BUT anyway thanks for the video anyway (it does have its uses!) (I did not know which flux to buy on eBay, now I know!) ;-) friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
I'm no expert, but I do a lot of desoldering to salvage parts and those packages with the heat sink pads, TO252, TO263, and TO263-5, usually have solder at the back of the heat pad, connecting the whole heat pad to the board. This just shows soldering the top edge of the heat pads. Wouldn't that affect the thermal conductivity to the board and lower heat dissipation? Again, I'm no expert, but I would place some solder paste at the back of the heat pad, so when soldering the top edge, the solder paste will melt and bond the whole pad to the board.
I don't think you're supposed to get flux/alcohol on top of a button. At least that's what I read in switch manufacturers soldering instructions. You will get flux residues inside the switch which will make it unreliable.
superdau you say when he brushes it? That's only alcohol, so it evaporates within 10/20 seconds. It doesn't matter if the alcohol touches it. If it was flux, it would be a different story.
Yeah, but the alcohol has the flux you want to remove dissolved in it as soon as you brush over the flux. After the alcohol evaporates you are left with a thin layer of flux and if that's inside the switch, that's bad.
superdau the flux gets sticked to the brush, in fact the brush with alcohol is used specifically to remove any flux that could get sticked to a component and cause problems.
Androkavo sorry dude but you're soldering way too slow. Dwell time should be three seconds tops for the majority of components, and like others have commented you unnecessarily touch up most of your joints, which causes damage especially to semiconductors (weakens dies and will absolutely cause latent failures and lower efficiency). I recommend looking at IPC-J-STD-001. Also you have too much solder on most components, look at IPC-A-610. It would be really good for the community if you did another video fixing your mistakes.
very nice tutorial video - but I don't understand why you only apply flux to one side of the pads first. Especially with the tabbed packages it would be an advantage to have flux between the pad and the tab of the package because it will promote the capillary suction of the solder into the gap between the tab and the pad.
probably so you don't get shorts under the component. If there is flux only on one side then it is less likely for solder to flow across to the other pads.
If I had to guess, he reflows good joints, because like me he's guilty of sometimes using his eyes for the actual soldering, and then uses the microscope for inspection.
To be honest ... this man looks like he's just playing with hand solderin. He's applying too much time to weld every single component ,overvall i dislike & also disagree with this technique :(
Thanks for the video and the channel, really educational for a hobbyist like myself! A question about SOT-23 (or any SMD component, really): At 2:25 you solder the right pin, then the left pin immediately. Is there a reason for this, or is it a better practice to let the component and board cool down before you start soldering the next pin? Also, I only have a simple cheap 30-watt soldering iron with a cone-shaped tip, and I also have a tip similar in shape to what you're using in the video. Will 30 watt be OK (not too much, not too little), and does the tip matter? I need to do some SOT-23, but the amount of work I need to do with them does not justify investing in an expensive soldering station. One last thing: I have some paste flux similar in color to yours, but different brand (BAKKU, I think), and it's a neutral flux. Can I expect it to work in SMD soldering? Thanks!
The flux should be fine, but you're gonna have a rough time with a constant power iron. Get yourself a temperature controlled station of you can - some really decent t12 kits can be as low as $15 on ebay. For the tips I recommend trying out a few and seeing which one you are most comfortable with.
Can you tell an online website where I can buy SMD components? All SMD components. In one of my own project required SMD components and I haven't found any website which gives all SMD components required. Thanks
Hi... I have a digital microscope that is what you used I suppose, but I dont have the software to project the view on my laptop anymore. Do you know of some good generic software I can use? (maybe the one you used for this video). Thanks 😉
Valentin Mocanu EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
5 Minute Crafts - Electronics Edition!
No, honestly, this is THE BEST suface mount tutorial I have found. Thanks!
Flux is a beautiful thing :)
Delightful music, perfectly soldered pads... This must be heaven 🤤♥️
The best SMD tutorial I have ever seen -- thank you!
Awesome! This video reassured me it's not that hard to solder those parts at all!
You make those components look huge and easy to solder. I don't see the too much solder on components myself. Looks like just the right amount to me.
Digital microscope
use liquid solder
Using the appropriate sized tip and solder helps to make neat joints.
Thank you so much for this tutorial
I've just soldered my first smd 6-leg to an adapter board, and it works wonderful. Even I don't have a microscope, just magnifing glasses.
حح
I can say that after 19 years of practicing electronics my solders are like these congratulations, and I don't know about you, but I love it when someone tries to identify which component I changed and can't 😂😂😂.
Thanks for this demo. I was confused about the pin 2 stub on a D2PAK. This cleared it up.
Soldering has become artwork
Thanks for this. As a beginner, its not obvious which SMD packages can easily be soldered without special equipment.
Thank you for the work, it is therapeutic to watch. However, I would like to point out some issues with the soldering process: first, your iron's thermal recovery is not fast enough. It takes quite some time to heat up DPAK/DDPAK tabs, and that's a sign of slow thermal recovery. This could be worse if you use lead free solder. Second, it's not recommended to push the parts down with a tweezer while soldering. You should allow natural solder standoff height. You can do this with low mass components like chip resistors and chip capacitors as well as some small chip diodes. For an inductor, you should allow for some standoff. The reason is that the standoff height serves as a stress relief, and it absorbs the impact during an external shock. If there's no enough standoff, the bonding interface will have to take more shock energy and fail.
the only reason he uses the tweezers is to stop the component from moving, though i do agree with you on those points.
I think that holding the IC with tweezers helps to dissipate heat and avoids burning the chip
Well, 1. it would be very hard to keep still the part otherwise, and 2. you can solder one leg this way, then put away the tweezers and proceed with other legs, and 3. maybe you're over complicating this simple process? (plus we didn't see how he solders the inductors, maybe he indeed uses a different technique).
I mean I do this for a living and i've never had an issue with a repaired component such as an IC chip or a large aluminum capacitor having joint strength issues when pressed down on while being soldered
What about if you shut the fuck up and do the video ?
Still my favorite SMD soldering video.
Best focus I've ever seen! Wow
Really nice soldering .. very therapeutic!
So much fun watching an amateur doing stuff I've been doing for 35 years.
I don’t know what’s so satisfying about this
Everything according to Pace basic soldering lessons. It's a pleasure to watch! So relaxing =)
Very beautiful soldering!
therapeutic!
Those are some beautiful solder connections. I love how they stay silver and smooth after cooling down. Must be the flux covering the surface, and having everything clean, and a good temperature on the soldering iron.
Not necessary to go back and re-heat the joint multiple times. Just stresses the semiconductor unnecessarily. Nice joints but too much heat.
I agree with Roger
Roger Onslow could you point to an example in the video, at what point in time did you see this? I am new to the process.
@@cdevidal e.g. at minute 5:20 when soldering the D2PAK regulator
I wonder why he did it
those compand that have plastic support hard to solder it like Aluminum Capacitor in 10:09 and Power Inductor , need more time to verify if it's stick or not
Im amazed the amount of times Androkavo reflows the solder. If the components still work I will be surprised. Plus some joints have a bit too much solder. Remember that puts stress on the joints.
dont be dramatic m8
👏 looks so effortlessly 😍
Idk why but this video is so satisfying
It's not soldering... It's an art 🎨 😍🌹
Androkavo congratulations, beautiful pictures. Could you do SMD desoldering - Common Packages?
Keep calm and watch this guy soldering stuff.
This is the only soldering video I have seen that is actually correct in every way. I can't think of anything negative. Good job sir. Keep it up. I teach a power electronics design class at work and soon I will need to cover soldering techniques. Would you mind if I used this video?
Of course, you can embed my youtube videos link to your site/page/blog, it's feature of youtube. If use as offline, just credit source from my youtube channel : ua-cam.com/users/androkavo
Androkavo will do thank you
Well, look more carefully to DPACK & D2PACK power pad soldering. It is only touched at the edge and not soldered at all underneath. It may cause a lack of heat transfer from the component to the pad and potentially - a failure. Power pad should be soldered on whole surface.
Andr Sam you can see the solder flow under the chip just fine.
Yes, it is OK for a dummy board. If a large cooling area belongs to the to252's drain (or 263) it will be a little harder than setting up to 400C it should be preheated and and presoldered or need some solderpaste. if it's innolot....hard as hell. Oh i forgot the always suroundin 0402's and a bigger problem: solder mold contact. Failed on ipc class3
excellent video friend! congratulations please continue generating more content of soldering and desoldering with captive! Many students of electronics for economic limitations can not buy heat station! I already subscribed to your channel very successful and greetings from Caracas Venezuela!
Сильный мелкоскоп! Красавец.
Делал такой же из вебки ноутбука с перевернутой линзой от мобилки.
no pre-tinning of the pads?
Your Flux pate is excellent.
Very pleasant to look at. Except you were trying to do high thermal mass components like D2PAK and inductor too fast. Unless the the metal heats up properly, solder won't adhere to it well. So let the soldering iron dwell on the component for some time.
Nice soldering with a good and professionel job
6:33 I thought I was watching TIG welding for a while lol
…0
Wow andro you are the best
Eslam's Lab EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection
We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
Nice skill, really learned a lot from it, thanks for the video :)
*Une démonstration vraiment efficace ! Merci*
What is correct temperature for soldering iron for SMD parts works?
Very clear and straight forward Thanks so much!
2:23 what happens to the printing on the package here??
Which solder did you use...? Looks like lead solder from being so shinny when cool.
why is no flux done in/on all areas? (everything fluxes in one go)
just under those big cool surfaces you must have good contact!
and exactly there you do not flux?
why?
BUT anyway thanks for the video anyway (it does have its uses!)
(I did not know which flux to buy on eBay, now I know!) ;-)
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
at what temperature??
While you clean the flux using that liquid, do you used tissues to dried the liquid?
Um.... Don't you need a chronical tip for for solder?
Does solder get also under the part pads? Mainly in case of those big pads (e.g. DPAK, D2PAK, ..), doesn't it hold just by edges mostly?
Nice soldering there, but I do prefer flux core solder myself.
Hi. Nice video. The liquid cleaner is alcohol?
Просто приятно посмотреть
Excelente video! My friend, what kind of microscope do you use?
Awesome work man! video is amazing!
Whats temperature and solder?
Music at 1:35 - 5:28 = "Still Alive", also known as "The Cake is a Lie". Different instrumentation, though.
BTW. very nice work, well done.
That sounds NOTHING like Still Alive from Portal.
I’m curious why flux is consistently only applied one side and not both, before placing the package.
I'm no expert, but I do a lot of desoldering to salvage parts and those packages with the heat sink pads, TO252, TO263, and TO263-5, usually have solder at the back of the heat pad, connecting the whole heat pad to the board. This just shows soldering the top edge of the heat pads. Wouldn't that affect the thermal conductivity to the board and lower heat dissipation? Again, I'm no expert, but I would place some solder paste at the back of the heat pad, so when soldering the top edge, the solder paste will melt and bond the whole pad to the board.
I don't think you're supposed to get flux/alcohol on top of a button. At least that's what I read in switch manufacturers soldering instructions. You will get flux residues inside the switch which will make it unreliable.
superdau you say when he brushes it? That's only alcohol, so it evaporates within 10/20 seconds. It doesn't matter if the alcohol touches it. If it was flux, it would be a different story.
Yeah, but the alcohol has the flux you want to remove dissolved in it as soon as you brush over the flux. After the alcohol evaporates you are left with a thin layer of flux and if that's inside the switch, that's bad.
superdau the flux gets sticked to the brush, in fact the brush with alcohol is used specifically to remove any flux that could get sticked to a component and cause problems.
What solder wire use you ?
Thanks for the video.
Best regards,
7:54 you can put MCN - XG50
Superb video as usual! BTW, how do you manage to get rid of 100% dust on your components?
Beautiful work Andro, what temperature do you set your iron at for the smaller components?, thanks
315°C, soldering as fast as possible
Androkavo thank you very much for your very swift reply, keep up the great work, look forward to more of your great videos
Androkavo sorry dude but you're soldering way too slow. Dwell time should be three seconds tops for the majority of components, and like others have commented you unnecessarily touch up most of your joints, which causes damage especially to semiconductors (weakens dies and will absolutely cause latent failures and lower efficiency). I recommend looking at IPC-J-STD-001. Also you have too much solder on most components, look at IPC-A-610. It would be really good for the community if you did another video fixing your mistakes.
It’s like an visual ASMR
very nice tutorial video - but I don't understand why you only apply flux to one side of the pads first. Especially with the tabbed packages it would be an advantage to have flux between the pad and the tab of the package because it will promote the capillary suction of the solder into the gap between the tab and the pad.
probably so you don't get shorts under the component. If there is flux only on one side then it is less likely for solder to flow across to the other pads.
what temperature did you use before the 350-400° for the larger dpak ones ? and what kind of tin / diameter?
Excellente vidéo ,bravo
Overall quite good, but too much solder on many joints. Also not sure why you go back and reflow successful joints over and over.
If I had to guess, he reflows good joints, because like me he's guilty of sometimes using his eyes for the actual soldering, and then uses the microscope for inspection.
To be honest ... this man looks like he's just playing with hand solderin.
He's applying too much time to weld every single component ,overvall i dislike & also disagree with this technique :(
Класс!
Отличная работа!
which camera and which lens was used to make the video?
You’re an artist!!
It´s So satisfying to wach! thank you, by the way, what microscope did you use in this video?
купил такую кисточку 12:10 удобная вещица, жаль что флюса такого как в видео не найти, или можно? Где продается? не подскажите?
is it magnetism? the hot liquid metal stuff sticks to where it is supposed to be as soon as it leaves the rod thing. very interesting
No magnetism, it's normal soldering electronics with clean surface
Its cohesion rather than magnetism i think
What's the Flux used for? Just looks like you're melting wax on circuts.
Flux is used to wick the solder to the components/pads thorough capillary motion. It's corrosive so needs to be cleaned after the joint has been made.
It is lead-based solder, right?
Still didn´t reach the SMD point, but I hope to do it soon!! But one thing is true, with the right tools its easier, anything!!
friend of how many watts is the soldering iron that you use for smd ?? of 25? 30? watts ??
What does he use as base to solder all these components?
Все так аккуратно, что противно смотреть
Why don't you flux both sides at the start instead of doing each component twice. ?
Is it ok soldering more than 3 seconds?
Nice jobs 👏👏👏👏👏
БОЛЬШЕ! БОЛЬШЕ ФЛЮСА!!! ))
Thanks for the video and the channel, really educational for a hobbyist like myself!
A question about SOT-23 (or any SMD component, really):
At 2:25 you solder the right pin, then the left pin immediately. Is there a reason for this, or is it a better practice to let the component and board cool down before you start soldering the next pin?
Also, I only have a simple cheap 30-watt soldering iron with a cone-shaped tip, and I also have a tip similar in shape to what you're using in the video. Will 30 watt be OK (not too much, not too little), and does the tip matter? I need to do some SOT-23, but the amount of work I need to do with them does not justify investing in an expensive soldering station.
One last thing: I have some paste flux similar in color to yours, but different brand (BAKKU, I think), and it's a neutral flux. Can I expect it to work in SMD soldering?
Thanks!
The flux should be fine, but you're gonna have a rough time with a constant power iron. Get yourself a temperature controlled station of you can - some really decent t12 kits can be as low as $15 on ebay. For the tips I recommend trying out a few and seeing which one you are most comfortable with.
@@areg7182 got a soldering station wiith a heat gun and temperature control iron half a year ago. The difference is night and day!
Can you tell an online website where I can buy SMD components? All SMD components. In one of my own project required SMD components and I haven't found any website which gives all SMD components required.
Thanks
What's the iron temperatue? Would do you guys recommend for leaded tin? I feel like my flux is dissepating way too fast wioth 320°C
Hi... I have a digital microscope that is what you used I suppose, but I dont have the software to project the view on my laptop anymore. Do you know of some good generic software I can use? (maybe the one you used for this video). Thanks 😉
What is meant by the package would you like to explain?
Please give the link of your soldering iron to buy
What's the name of the alcohol dispenser thing?
Bottle Dispenser, goo.gl/w7n3zA
Valentin Mocanu EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection
We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
Which soldering iron do you use
Sir which flux are you using
Hello, what model of camera you use?
What paste did you used ang cleaning alcohol. Pls.
Wahoo vary nice soldring
what is solder wire uses in the video?
All this video is a good example of an inexperienced PCB engineer. The part lead should not cover the pad. There should always be room for solder.
Anyone know what a similar tip to the 900M-T-2C is for a Hakko FX888-D?
The T18-CF2 looks similar, but a bit shorter (14.5mm vs 17mm)
Where can I found a true smd databooks ?