10:00 That was the most satisfying/nerve wracking thing I've seen so far this decade. 30:54 Our friendship is over before it's even started. Honestly you have ABSOLUTELY smashed this one pal. Really good job, and yes I'll be back with a vengeance.
@StezStixFix I ordered this and it came with no instructions, yours is setup so you know which is which. I've got them all open on a plate going wtf waste of 10 bucks
Thanks!! I initially found the idea of SMD soldering daunting. I started this, doing about 5 resistors. Watched your video. I've done more and I'm really glad I watched you. With a microscope, fine tip iron, fine solder, and hot air, I find SMD soldering really is quite doable. I think the microscope is pretty indispensable, at least for my 52yo eyes and hands.
I finished up the practice kit. I'm generally happy with what I've learned in the process. My final learning was: reverse tweezers are worth using - they made holding and letting go of the component easier (for me). I got some ceramic tipped ones and love them.
31 year old here, I have pretty good eye sight. I can see the connection points and the like just fine with the naked eye, but I still doubt my self. A microscope even if just a cheap one, makes it sooo much easier.
your audio and voice are so much more pleasant than most other repair youtubers. also great sense of humor and very humble. subscribed already, but thought I'd let you know your work is appreciated!
Thinner solder is what's required, it'll stop those big blobs. Solder paste is put on with a stencil, although it was fascinating to watch it used in this way.
Haha, fascinating, I'll take that! Yeah, I have ordered up some thinner solder off the back of this, i found it hard to find leaded solder, but think I've sourced some... Thanks for the tip 👍
GB, am I right in saying that the solder paste/stencils are for chips such as Wii CPUs, where the pins could be directly beneath the chip itself? Think I've seen My Mate Vince or Makho do that before.
@@ToxoRetro No that's BGA (ball-grid array) where you use tiny balls of solder, those use a stencils on the chip rather than on the PCB, this is a process called re-balling. Although people do use all sorts of methods including paste, good results are notoriously difficult to achieve without specialist equipment. There are many videos on this topic
Yeah He said solder paste, then puts flux and I go ohh nooo, then he goes ohhhh where's it going and I was laughing. It's always fun when someone learns to flow smd with paste.
@@goku445 Too much airflow mixed with too much additional flux (no add'l flux necessary). you'll never really avoid too much airflow problem but it's best to go as perpendicular to the board as possible too.. Also, more specifically to rework, its great when you can heat the whole board up too, not too hot, but say 100 150C then you don't need that much additional hot air to re/flow.
Thank you so much for showing what not to do as well. It's so much easier to learn good practice when you have a visualization of bad practice alongside it. This was truly informative and I'm a subscriber now!
My only suggestion, and I know this was a few years back... It is probably worth getting a finer gauge solder wire for use with smaller components to better control how much you put on the pad/tip of the iron.
This. Not as important for the bigger components, but I'm using 0.6mm ones at work for down to 0402 SMD. It's a little too thick for 0201 and below but extremely helpful to have around for most jobs.
Agree. Not knowing, I started out with 0.8mm which, for my first time, was fine for 1206s and 0805s, but I bought a spool of 0.5mm for the 0603s & 0402s. The 0.5mm melts with less heat, too.
One other thing, the amount of the solder paste makes a hug difference. Also there are different size balls suspended in the flux that make it easier or more challenging. I put the paste out and then apply it with a toothpick to just make a blob the size of the pad. I also turn my air flow down on the hot air gun or you will blow the tiny little balls of solder everywhere, like you did in this video. I also try and keep the air gun at a stepper angle to the board, at least 45 degrees. Love the channel.
I am very thankful for you making this video. I have NEVER used a soldering iron and i am getting ready to teach myself! I learn best from watching others do things!
I've done two of these, maybe saying 'done' is a slight (absolute) exaggeration. The first one I attempted was when my wife bought me a cheap solder station as part of last year’s birthday present. I tried doing it with a jeweller's visor, no board clamp and no clue. I did a terrible job and I think I was trying to work tool cool. This year attempt was a lot better, or so I thought until I saw yours which is far superior. Because of my disabilities and health over the last year I haven’t had the chance to practice that I’d have liked. Even with this I had to do one row and leave it. Even without all the excuses I’m trying my best to come out with you did a far better job than I did.
I've always wanted to go to school for computer hardware and software, but your videos have really put me in the right place. I'm doing this. Im gunna work on computers. I want to know everything there is to know. and soldering looks awesome. I bought a really nice tool set for cheap yesterday off Amazon a xool just so I can take apart and clean my laptop and attempt fixes on small stuff but I can't wait to do this.
I say do it! I’m 29 and finally took the leap to go back to school for computer and information technology. I start the 29th of August. Do it man there’s no time like right now to go back.
@@xinniethep00h going good? I've just turned 30 and I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I actually studied engineering at college but went into mechanical instead of electrical but realised I love electronics so much more...
Used solder paste with heat gun, works wonders, but: 1) NO ADDITIONAL FLUX!!! 2) Use appropriate solder paste (they differ in ball size) 3) Add the right amount.
I've never soldered anything but I've always wanted to learn. I just found a reasonable priced iron on Amazon as well as some practice boards like this although the ones I found are not quite as complex as this one.
Love it mate, you have inspired me to buy all my tools back from college and start practicing again, so i can start repairing old stuff :D thank you so much
After watching your vids I decided to undertake some repairs of my own. I bought this kit and I also bought other practise kits that actually do things. A hand held Tetris game, a graph chaser, a bluetooth speeker, and an FM radio. They all cost the same, about £12. They are great for learning
So great job, but just in case its not clear to viewers: The 3 rows on the left, and the 3 rows on the right have no functional purpose. They are strictly there for practise. (Each row has its own test points at the bottom for a final test). Also careful with the power alligator clips. There are exposed strips of conductor on the underside that may short those leads.
Thank you. Just approaching this after very many years of through-hole (and to be truthful even a few with chassis and tag-boards!). Great to see genuine comprehensive method testing, and real results. Will definitely need a microscope with ageing eyesight, but this has given me a true appreciation of the challenge, and a hot-air station is on the shopping list, isn't surface tension wonderful? Nice one.
@@jonno1130 Yep, solder paste + plate is the go. Also there are different solder pastes that have different melting points, SN42/Bi58 (Tin/Bismuth) melting point of 138c If using hot air dial the airflow right down. Some cheaper stations just blast too hard and move stuff around. Never flux when using paste, as already said solder paste is balls of solder suspended in flux already. Beware the angle / direction you're blowing from... straight down or the ability to be agile with direction is important... having a camera in the way doesn't help (personal experience) so a matter of finding a compromise between capturing footage and being effective. Last of all, that kit can be purchased on Ali Express in packs of 5 or 10 kits for very little coin if you want more practise... this is likely where the Ebay seller either dropshipped it from or where they sourced it and re-sold it.
Thanks for the video, I am a newbie to SMD I built the same kit as a first attempt, like yourself I was pleased when it worked. I hand soldered everything, after watching you use the hot air, I think I should try that. I was just a bit concerned I would dislodge other components. Regards Mike
I just purchased an SMD rework station and found your video! Great job and the music in the background is a nice touch. Well done! I've subscribed. Ciao!
The packet of transistors on mine got stuck to the bag and threw them all over the carpet, so I lost one of mine. Shame as I would have liked to get this kit working, but it was still good practice.
I've been soldering for many a year with standard components. Now the miniature world is getting smaller and smaller every decade. After watching this I think I may try doing a SMD kit, though with my eyesight I will need a magnifier of some sort for these tiny items. Plus, the warm air blower method is the best for these components for me to work with them.
Did they deliver all components as in schematic ? For leds i have got 470ohm resistors instead 330 but that doesn't really matter, worse thing is that they gave me 20m r49 resistor so the lights works, but nothing moves :D
@@maxmax-xx7nw For me they did. Check the output of the 555 chip. It should be generating a pulse to tickle the input to the decade counter chip. Pin 3 of the 555 chip is the output should have the pulse signal on it. This will send a pulse signal to the decade counter's PIN 14 Clock (CLK). Either the 555 is stuck in a single state or the 555 is running so fast, the lights appear to be all on. Might check the components around the 555 chip to see if they're damaged. Hope that helps.
@@maxmax-xx7nw I wasn't able to trace it to R49. Which resistor is that? Albeit a schematic is provided with the kit, but the component tags don't line up with the actual board. The according to the schematic there's a potentiometer controlling the trigger threshold. (RP1 - Resistor Pot?).
Great job. Really enjoying your videos. Guys like you and @JoeyDoesTech have inspired me to start into this hobby. I just finished the same project myself. The tiny resistors were way smaller than I imagined. I used a soldering iron for all of the pieces. I was too scared to try and use the hot air machine. You made it look fairly easy. I may try that next project. I have the same microscope you do. It was a huge help. I have no idea how @JoeyDoesTech was able to do this by eyesight alone.
Thanks Taylor! Yeah, I don't know how he did those 0402 ones without a microscope, they are ridiculously small. Glad to hear you've given it a go too. I am more comfortable with the hot air than the iron, so i found it much easier. But I'm glad I did a mixture of both to see what works best. The microscope is awesome isn't it?! Really helps on stuff like this 👍
Hubby and youngest are obsessed with you. We all watch your videos with interests and giggles. So much so that hubby is now fix it steve/tim as he has purchased everything he has seen you use. I have pictures I wanted to send you but it won't let me so I guess youl have to just believe it 😂. Thanks steve
Great video, but don't give up on solder paste, it really is the best stuff to use. As it comes in the syringe, it's a bit thick and lumpy, so dilute it with some liquid flux, then apply it to the pads with a cocktail stick. A little experimentation will get the right consistency. You then drop the component into place with your tweezers and hit it with the hot air. As the paste melts, it goes from dull to shiny and capillary action does the rest. Give it a go, you won't regret it!
Thanks John, that makes sense! I will definitely give it another go, I seemed to blow the paste all over the board, but I guess I need to lower the air flow too. Really appreciate the information, thank you! 👍
It's definitely the case that less is more when it comes to solder paste, you really don't need very much! It's also essential to lower the heat gun exactly from above, to avoid blowing the component away.
Your biggest problem with soldering the 0603 and smaller with your iron has to do with the gauge or size of your solder. I have several diameters of solder because it makes a big difference in getting the "right" amount of solder on the pad. Love watching your channel.
I completed the whole thing and it won't turn on. 😢 Two things are strange to me. Resistor 49 shows 1.6M ohm when in place but 2M when desolderd. The LEDs in the ring won't light up when checked with a multimeter, the outer ones do. What else could I check? Edit: Nvm had both ICs in the wrong direction 🤦♂
The right tools will make the job easier 👏 well done with getting it to work. Makes me appreciate all joeys work even more. Great job Steve Nice video.
What was that liquid you used in the beginning when you were soldering and how does it help, i know its a dumb question but im new to soldering and just bought this kit on Amazon do i was wondering if i missed purchasing something
I got mine and did it. I got half of it lighting up. The two LEDs on the right side top and bottom or not lighting up. I check the polarity. I swapped out the bottom right for the bottom left on the LED works. So I can't figure out where I'm going wrong. I probably checked all the solder joints about five times on every chip.
I'd like to get into soldering, but I have no idea where to start. I have an iron and solder, but every time I try to solder anything, the wire doesnt stick. I have it at 200 c and it seems utterly frustrating. I may bin the fecking thing.
Good to see another of your great vlogs there Steve this was most interesting to watch and certainly makes for good practice but well done good job you did - Nice 1 👍
Solder paste is the way to go. Pit paste on each pad and drop resistor on before melting and then just do as you did with the ones you forst did woth the air gun. Just solder paste and the resistor then blow hot air lol. But im definitely goign to try the old solderone side then the other with the iron. Im getting a kit with 4 of these SMD boards this one is included Youll get used to how much paste you need per pad. Its all an experiment but youll get it
It gets really efficent when you have a stencil, use the paste, and get all the pads coated in a thin layer of paste, place the components and work your way around with the air. Def don't add flux to the paste and lower your air speed, and you'll get the hang of flowing paste. You should give you hand at some ICs. Something like the CP2105-F01-GMR might be a good place to start. No way to use an iron on that either. maybe (big maybe) you could tin the pads with an iron, place the chip (literally resting on top) then heat with air, but the best way would be some paste on all the pins and ground pad, place, and flow. Just found your channel; this was enjoyable to watch, nice work.
Holy fish sauce! Are you rocking an Onyx t-shirt!?! SLAM! LOL I have been practicing on old dead boards I've had laying around not doing my, and I'm starting to get better at the resistors, but I'm absolutely rubbish with the caps and IC packages I might try. I think I need to invest in a hot air setup. But hey, you'll never get any better at something if you don't practice. Thanks for sharing this with us! It's super helpful and I'm endlessly fascinated!
I have one of these kits sitting on my desk but I can't figure out which component goes where. The components aren't labelled in anyway. How did you sort it out?
I got all but 2 Leds working. I think I torched those 2. Thanks for the tip on led orientation (minus= heavy line on PCB) I did all by hand no air gun. I had extremely thin solder (.3mm). I really wish they had put the parts on a labeled card like you had. Seems these kits are a bit of a wild card as far as documentation. Also I said no thank you to the 0402 s lol. Thanks
I bought one of these to try but instructions were in Chinese. You have no idea how grateful I am to be able to look at your sheet and see what each component is!!
In the past when I've received foreign language written document, I either use the Google Translate augmentation app on my cell phone to translate the characters directly onto my screen. It is a bit hit or miss though.
Mever use flux with solder paste... And make sure its clean before with rubbing alcohol or something. Then higher heat, lower flow with the hot air. It will work. Also keep your solder paste refrigerated when stored. Take out a half hour before you use it
I almost ordered one of these myself to play with . After seeing the size of those , I had better up my game before I attempt it . I don't have a good magnifier and that looks essential here .
No way am I going to sit through all this...32 mins later...OOoohh pretty lights. Awesome, editing was great and music choice was perfect and just at the right level. What was the glue looking stuff you put on beforehand, somekind of solvent?
Hi what soldering stacton you guys recommended for beginners I soldering before but that was in 90 after watching you video you inspired me to do some small projects and heat gun
use thinner solder it makes a big difference for smd work. i never use 1mm or above for anything other than soldering cables together, its much easier to put the right amount on with thinner solder so doesnt make such a mess and also gives cleaner looking joints
Thanks Mr Flibble, hope Uncle Arnie is doing well. It's a cheap Yihua one that I bought off Amazon. They don't stock it any more, but its similar to this one amzn.to/3sBZ5bw
@@StezStixFix thx. Uncle Arnie says hello so do they other boys from the dwarf at least I think they did its hard to hear them in the quarantine suite glass.
@@101ckes I bought mine for about $230 USD ... and worth every penny. It is quite the game changer compared to my old Radio Shack soldering set-up. A list of some of Steve's set-up is in the despcription.
Been watching thecod3r who repairs professionally. He's untidy with his repairs and never cleans up. Your a thousand times cleaner repair even though you don't know what your doing. I expect your going to get better with experience.
Thanks Stephen, yeah I'm definitely getting better. I only picked up a soldering iron for the first time less than 12 months ago. So I can only improve, I guess! 😊
I just got myself a digital scope like yours and its awesome. What is that "Board clamp" you are using to hold the PCB? I've been using my badass helping hands i got from amazon to do this kit and its great but I would also like to try with the microscope. Since I have nothing to hold the board right now it would have to just sit there while i solder onto it
You need 20/80 fine grade solder and a much better iron. (Don't grip the SMD, push down on it.) Tin your tip one handed and dab the solder to each joint after the SMD is held firmly in place (its a skill but solder is very mailable so can be positioned where you need it. Bend a 2-3" length at the end upwards and just dab your GOOD iron onto it) While solder paste would work for this very specific board its main use is building up a new board, for general repair you need a good iron and fine tweezer skills. While the offset SMDs trigger me he is correct they all make contact so will work its only if there very close together that would be an issue.
Just found this video . In regards to solder paste , squirt some out onto a surface and apply with a tooth pick , then you don't get to much on the board
Hi Maurice, it's quite a thin board so I think I had it on around 340 degrees C. Good luck with your kit, hope you get to see the magic lights at the end! 👍
Loved this video, solder paste is crazy lol, it's like it's got a mind of its own 🤭. I had no idea how delicate PCB repair is, a steady hand essential..2nd only to watch making. I saw another video and it had a little area on the pad called "Dave's Lair" 🤭 funny. Great channel, catching up on loads of videos from the past. Enjoy everyone. Thanks to StezStix 👍
Recieved mine today and there is no clear indication of which part goes where. All components are thrown in a ziplock and not labeld. Instructions are unclear and have been translated. Tutorials online all have different rated resistances so can't even follow along. Have to send it back.
10:00 That was the most satisfying/nerve wracking thing I've seen so far this decade.
30:54 Our friendship is over before it's even started.
Honestly you have ABSOLUTELY smashed this one pal. Really good job, and yes I'll be back with a vengeance.
🤣 thanks man, it was good fun and definitely good practice! Looking forward to you revisiting yours 👍
Thank you
@StezStixFix I ordered this and it came with no instructions, yours is setup so you know which is which. I've got them all open on a plate going wtf waste of 10 bucks
@@clinthipfner6042 Mine is the same. Just a bag full of components and a PCB.
Seeing surface tension pull components into place will never cease to be satisfying for me.
While the solder is melting, mmm...
Yes. watching the components being self aligned is most satisfying.
Thanks!! I initially found the idea of SMD soldering daunting. I started this, doing about 5 resistors. Watched your video. I've done more and I'm really glad I watched you. With a microscope, fine tip iron, fine solder, and hot air, I find SMD soldering really is quite doable. I think the microscope is pretty indispensable, at least for my 52yo eyes and hands.
I finished up the practice kit. I'm generally happy with what I've learned in the process. My final learning was: reverse tweezers are worth using - they made holding and letting go of the component easier (for me). I got some ceramic tipped ones and love them.
31 year old here, I have pretty good eye sight. I can see the connection points and the like just fine with the naked eye, but I still doubt my self. A microscope even if just a cheap one, makes it sooo much easier.
The little beads of solder paste running for their lives with the classical music in the background gave me a hearty chuckle.
your audio and voice are so much more pleasant than most other repair youtubers. also great sense of humor and very humble.
subscribed already, but thought I'd let you know your work is appreciated!
I think He has a boy in his body!
Thinner solder is what's required, it'll stop those big blobs. Solder paste is put on with a stencil, although it was fascinating to watch it used in this way.
Haha, fascinating, I'll take that! Yeah, I have ordered up some thinner solder off the back of this, i found it hard to find leaded solder, but think I've sourced some... Thanks for the tip 👍
GB, am I right in saying that the solder paste/stencils are for chips such as Wii CPUs, where the pins could be directly beneath the chip itself? Think I've seen My Mate Vince or Makho do that before.
@@ToxoRetro No that's BGA (ball-grid array) where you use tiny balls of solder, those use a stencils on the chip rather than on the PCB, this is a process called re-balling. Although people do use all sorts of methods including paste, good results are notoriously difficult to achieve without specialist equipment. There are many videos on this topic
Cheers@@gb7767, good to know. 🙂 You can see where I got confused.
Was thinking the same about solder thickness.
Your channel has quickly become my go-to when I get off work and just want to relax. Thanks for putting out quality content. I’ve learned a lot!
10:00 solder paste has the flux built-in so you don't need both. Also, a little paste goes a long way. Use it as sparingly as you can.
Yeah He said solder paste, then puts flux and I go ohh nooo, then he goes ohhhh where's it going and I was laughing. It's always fun when someone learns to flow smd with paste.
@@TheMrDrMs Is it the sole reason the metal balls are flying off or is it also too much air flow?
@@goku445 Too much airflow mixed with too much additional flux (no add'l flux necessary). you'll never really avoid too much airflow problem but it's best to go as perpendicular to the board as possible too.. Also, more specifically to rework, its great when you can heat the whole board up too, not too hot, but say 100 150C then you don't need that much additional hot air to re/flow.
Yes to this comment
@@TheMrDrMs @f1lab535 enters the room...
Thank you so much for showing what not to do as well. It's so much easier to learn good practice when you have a visualization of bad practice alongside it. This was truly informative and I'm a subscriber now!
My only suggestion, and I know this was a few years back... It is probably worth getting a finer gauge solder wire for use with smaller components to better control how much you put on the pad/tip of the iron.
This. Not as important for the bigger components, but I'm using 0.6mm ones at work for down to 0402 SMD. It's a little too thick for 0201 and below but extremely helpful to have around for most jobs.
Agree. Not knowing, I started out with 0.8mm which, for my first time, was fine for 1206s and 0805s, but I bought a spool of 0.5mm for the 0603s & 0402s. The 0.5mm melts with less heat, too.
Try .3mm with the finest tip
I picked up 0.5mm recently. Haven't tried it on SMD yet but I will say that 0.8mm seems too big for the little guys.
One other thing, the amount of the solder paste makes a hug difference. Also there are different size balls suspended in the flux that make it easier or more challenging. I put the paste out and then apply it with a toothpick to just make a blob the size of the pad. I also turn my air flow down on the hot air gun or you will blow the tiny little balls of solder everywhere, like you did in this video. I also try and keep the air gun at a stepper angle to the board, at least 45 degrees. Love the channel.
I am very thankful for you making this video. I have NEVER used a soldering iron and i am getting ready to teach myself! I learn best from watching others do things!
I've done two of these, maybe saying 'done' is a slight (absolute) exaggeration. The first one I attempted was when my wife bought me a cheap solder station as part of last year’s birthday present. I tried doing it with a jeweller's visor, no board clamp and no clue. I did a terrible job and I think I was trying to work tool cool.
This year attempt was a lot better, or so I thought until I saw yours which is far superior. Because of my disabilities and health over the last year I haven’t had the chance to practice that I’d have liked. Even with this I had to do one row and leave it. Even without all the excuses I’m trying my best to come out with you did a far better job than I did.
For these SMD boards with a lot of tiny components I would use solder paste and heat from the bottom with hot air.
I've always wanted to go to school for computer hardware and software, but your videos have really put me in the right place. I'm doing this. Im gunna work on computers. I want to know everything there is to know. and soldering looks awesome. I bought a really nice tool set for cheap yesterday off Amazon a xool just so I can take apart and clean my laptop and attempt fixes on small stuff but I can't wait to do this.
I say do it! I’m 29 and finally took the leap to go back to school for computer and information technology. I start the 29th of August. Do it man there’s no time like right now to go back.
@@xinniethep00h going good? I've just turned 30 and I'm thinking of doing the same thing.
I actually studied engineering at college but went into mechanical instead of electrical but realised I love electronics so much more...
@9:34 today we learn why solder paste is not used with blowy things. only oven or hotplate things should be used.
Used solder paste with heat gun, works wonders, but:
1) NO ADDITIONAL FLUX!!!
2) Use appropriate solder paste (they differ in ball size)
3) Add the right amount.
I laughed when the solder paste seemed to have a mind of it's own ... *WEEEEEEEEE!!! Let's head on over to that next set of pads* ... LOL!!! 😄
Helps to clean your tweezers and iron in between sets.
I've never soldered anything but I've always wanted to learn. I just found a reasonable priced iron on Amazon as well as some practice boards like this although the ones I found are not quite as complex as this one.
Love it mate, you have inspired me to buy all my tools back from college and start practicing again, so i can start repairing old stuff :D thank you so much
After watching your vids I decided to undertake some repairs of my own. I bought this kit and I also bought other practise kits that actually do things. A hand held Tetris game, a graph chaser, a bluetooth speeker, and an FM radio. They all cost the same, about £12. They are great for learning
So great job, but just in case its not clear to viewers: The 3 rows on the left, and the 3 rows on the right have no functional purpose. They are strictly there for practise. (Each row has its own test points at the bottom for a final test).
Also careful with the power alligator clips. There are exposed strips of conductor on the underside that may short those leads.
Thanks Rob, great info! 👍
I'm just discovering some of your old content and I love it! Glad you kept at it for so long.
Thank you. Just approaching this after very many years of through-hole (and to be truthful even a few with chassis and tag-boards!). Great to see genuine comprehensive method testing, and real results. Will definitely need a microscope with ageing eyesight, but this has given me a true appreciation of the challenge, and a hot-air station is on the shopping list, isn't surface tension wonderful? Nice one.
I'd recommend the Quick 861dw best bang for the buck its actually more powerful than the Hakko but less than 300 dollars
Solder paste, don't use flux(or very little) with it!!! Paste already has flux built into it.
Indeed. Solder paste _is_ flux with solder balls suspended in it.
Solder paste and a hot plate. Put all the components on the board heat it up, all done in one go. Sorted.
@@jonno1130 Yep, solder paste + plate is the go.
Also there are different solder pastes that have different melting points, SN42/Bi58 (Tin/Bismuth) melting point of 138c
If using hot air dial the airflow right down. Some cheaper stations just blast too hard and move stuff around.
Never flux when using paste, as already said solder paste is balls of solder suspended in flux already.
Beware the angle / direction you're blowing from... straight down or the ability to be agile with direction is important... having a camera in the way doesn't help (personal experience) so a matter of finding a compromise between capturing footage and being effective.
Last of all, that kit can be purchased on Ali Express in packs of 5 or 10 kits for very little coin if you want more practise... this is likely where the Ebay seller either dropshipped it from or where they sourced it and re-sold it.
Thanks for the video, I am a newbie to SMD I built the same kit as a first attempt, like yourself I was pleased when it worked. I hand soldered everything, after watching you use the hot air, I think I should try that. I was just a bit concerned I would dislodge other components. Regards Mike
I just purchased an SMD rework station and found your video! Great job and the music in the background is a nice touch. Well done! I've subscribed. Ciao!
The wheel is truth! The wheel is knowledge! All praise the wheel! 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks for showing the process. As a beginner, this is pure gold.
The packet of transistors on mine got stuck to the bag and threw them all over the carpet, so I lost one of mine. Shame as I would have liked to get this kit working, but it was still good practice.
I've been soldering for many a year with standard components. Now the miniature world is getting smaller and smaller every decade. After watching this I think I may try doing a SMD kit, though with my eyesight I will need a magnifier of some sort for these tiny items. Plus, the warm air blower method is the best for these components for me to work with them.
Amazing is an understatement. I have an obsession with doing these practice boards, I find them very addictive and relaxing... Thanks for sharing.
Did they deliver all components as in schematic ? For leds i have got 470ohm resistors instead 330 but that doesn't really matter, worse thing is that they gave me 20m r49 resistor so the lights works, but nothing moves :D
@@maxmax-xx7nw For me they did. Check the output of the 555 chip. It should be generating a pulse to tickle the input to the decade counter chip.
Pin 3 of the 555 chip is the output should have the pulse signal on it. This will send a pulse signal to the decade counter's PIN 14 Clock (CLK). Either the 555 is stuck in a single state or the 555 is running so fast, the lights appear to be all on. Might check the components around the 555 chip to see if they're damaged.
Hope that helps.
@@DavidKHill it's stuck on one led, all 4 corners are on and others randomly, i gonna short this r49 and see what happens :p
@@maxmax-xx7nw I wasn't able to trace it to R49. Which resistor is that? Albeit a schematic is provided with the kit, but the component tags don't line up with the actual board. The according to the schematic there's a potentiometer controlling the trigger threshold. (RP1 - Resistor Pot?).
@@DavidKHill drive.google.com/file/d/1ZpOUZHS6E62HxLAHW4v_ffw5xTAmbj4y/view?usp=drivesdk
Great job. Really enjoying your videos. Guys like you and @JoeyDoesTech have inspired me to start into this hobby. I just finished the same project myself. The tiny resistors were way smaller than I imagined. I used a soldering iron for all of the pieces. I was too scared to try and use the hot air machine. You made it look fairly easy. I may try that next project. I have the same microscope you do. It was a huge help. I have no idea how @JoeyDoesTech was able to do this by eyesight alone.
Thanks Taylor! Yeah, I don't know how he did those 0402 ones without a microscope, they are ridiculously small.
Glad to hear you've given it a go too. I am more comfortable with the hot air than the iron, so i found it much easier. But I'm glad I did a mixture of both to see what works best.
The microscope is awesome isn't it?! Really helps on stuff like this 👍
Glad you've got into the hobby Taylor, good stuff 😁👌
I love that we're learning with you. We can avoid making the same mistakes that way. Good stuff!
Hubby and youngest are obsessed with you. We all watch your videos with interests and giggles. So much so that hubby is now fix it steve/tim as he has purchased everything he has seen you use. I have pictures I wanted to send you but it won't let me so I guess youl have to just believe it 😂. Thanks steve
Great video, but don't give up on solder paste, it really is the best stuff to use. As it comes in the syringe, it's a bit thick and lumpy, so dilute it with some liquid flux, then apply it to the pads with a cocktail stick. A little experimentation will get the right consistency. You then drop the component into place with your tweezers and hit it with the hot air. As the paste melts, it goes from dull to shiny and capillary action does the rest. Give it a go, you won't regret it!
Thanks John, that makes sense! I will definitely give it another go, I seemed to blow the paste all over the board, but I guess I need to lower the air flow too. Really appreciate the information, thank you! 👍
It's definitely the case that less is more when it comes to solder paste, you really don't need very much! It's also essential to lower the heat gun exactly from above, to avoid blowing the component away.
@@johnellerington2676 Thanks John! 😊
Nice job👏. Where did you get your circuit board holder? Not listed.
I can hand solder 0402 and QFN chips...its not pleasant at those sizes though and when I design my own minimum of 0603 but pr3fer 0805.
Thought about getting one of those soldering tweezers that heat up? Allows you to have both pads soldered and you just drop it on top and wait
It's all about achievement, dear boy and you have certainly done that. Well done!
Your biggest problem with soldering the 0603 and smaller with your iron has to do with the gauge or size of your solder. I have several diameters of solder because it makes a big difference in getting the "right" amount of solder on the pad. Love watching your channel.
I completed the whole thing and it won't turn on. 😢 Two things are strange to me. Resistor 49 shows 1.6M ohm when in place but 2M when desolderd. The LEDs in the ring won't light up when checked with a multimeter, the outer ones do. What else could I check? Edit: Nvm had both ICs in the wrong direction 🤦♂
The right tools will make the job easier 👏 well done with getting it to work. Makes me appreciate all joeys work even more. Great job Steve Nice video.
Thanks Fraz! Totally agree, hats off to Joey for doing it without a microscope 👍
@@StezStixFix you still did an awesome 👌 still incredibly difficult with the right equipment.
What was that liquid you used in the beginning when you were soldering and how does it help, i know its a dumb question but im new to soldering and just bought this kit on Amazon do i was wondering if i missed purchasing something
I got mine and did it. I got half of it lighting up. The two LEDs on the right side top and bottom or not lighting up. I check the polarity. I swapped out the bottom right for the bottom left on the LED works. So I can't figure out where I'm going wrong. I probably checked all the solder joints about five times on every chip.
I'd like to get into soldering, but I have no idea where to start. I have an iron and solder, but every time I try to solder anything, the wire doesnt stick. I have it at 200 c and it seems utterly frustrating. I may bin the fecking thing.
Good to see another of your great vlogs there Steve this was most interesting to watch and certainly makes for good practice but well done good job you did - Nice 1 👍
Thanks Chris! Definitely got some good practice out of this one, and some good fun to boot! 😁
Solder paste is the way to go. Pit paste on each pad and drop resistor on before melting and then just do as you did with the ones you forst did woth the air gun. Just solder paste and the resistor then blow hot air lol.
But im definitely goign to try the old solderone side then the other with the iron.
Im getting a kit with 4 of these SMD boards this one is included
Youll get used to how much paste you need per pad. Its all an experiment but youll get it
Yours is the best video on how to put this together!!
Thanks Tito! Much appreciated 👍
It gets really efficent when you have a stencil, use the paste, and get all the pads coated in a thin layer of paste, place the components and work your way around with the air. Def don't add flux to the paste and lower your air speed, and you'll get the hang of flowing paste. You should give you hand at some ICs. Something like the CP2105-F01-GMR might be a good place to start. No way to use an iron on that either. maybe (big maybe) you could tin the pads with an iron, place the chip (literally resting on top) then heat with air, but the best way would be some paste on all the pins and ground pad, place, and flow. Just found your channel; this was enjoyable to watch, nice work.
I have one on the way. Thanks for the demo. Lovely quirky approach to technical subjects
Holy fish sauce! Are you rocking an Onyx t-shirt!?! SLAM! LOL I have been practicing on old dead boards I've had laying around not doing my, and I'm starting to get better at the resistors, but I'm absolutely rubbish with the caps and IC packages I might try. I think I need to invest in a hot air setup. But hey, you'll never get any better at something if you don't practice. Thanks for sharing this with us! It's super helpful and I'm endlessly fascinated!
I have one of these kits sitting on my desk but I can't figure out which component goes where. The components aren't labelled in anyway. How did you sort it out?
I got all but 2 Leds working. I think I torched those 2. Thanks for the tip on led orientation (minus= heavy line on PCB) I did all by hand no air gun. I had extremely thin solder (.3mm). I really wish they had put the parts on a labeled card like you had. Seems these kits are a bit of a wild card as far as documentation. Also I said no thank you to the 0402 s lol.
Thanks
I bought one of these to try but instructions were in Chinese. You have no idea how grateful I am to be able to look at your sheet and see what each component is!!
In the past when I've received foreign language written document, I either use the Google Translate augmentation app on my cell phone to translate the characters directly onto my screen. It is a bit hit or miss though.
Hi, thanks for it. Do yoou have this paper . With components values.?? I have dificult to identify each one.
Waooo..., the components take into place on their own, with the air gun, kind of magical, well done. Great job really.
Whoa. What app is that timer? I like those huge numbers.
Mever use flux with solder paste... And make sure its clean before with rubbing alcohol or something. Then higher heat, lower flow with the hot air. It will work. Also keep your solder paste refrigerated when stored. Take out a half hour before you use it
Thanks Joshua! Great tips 👍
What is the model of your scope? I like your setup. Thanks for the time and work.
With the solder paste, use much less and turn air down on hot air, temp 350
What's that device you're using to hold the board down? I need one that won't melt for soldering tiny boards
I almost ordered one of these myself to play with . After seeing the size of those , I had better up my game before I attempt it . I don't have a good magnifier and that looks essential here .
Thanks for the video. It's fun and I enjoyed it very much. I am an absolute beginner and still waiting for my first kit to arrive and try out.
No way am I going to sit through all this...32 mins later...OOoohh pretty lights.
Awesome, editing was great and music choice was perfect and just at the right level.
What was the glue looking stuff you put on beforehand, somekind of solvent?
🤣 thanks HPW! The sticky stuff is tacky flux, it helps the solder flow and keeps the component in position while soldering. Very useful stuff! 👍
I think you did a real good job where did you get the holder.
Hi what soldering stacton you guys recommended for beginners I soldering before but that was in 90 after watching you video you inspired me to do some small projects and heat gun
hello! which type of soldering microscope do you buy? please give me a type of this. Thx
use thinner solder it makes a big difference for smd work. i never use 1mm or above for anything other than soldering cables together, its much easier to put the right amount on with thinner solder so doesnt make such a mess and also gives cleaner looking joints
Which Air Solderer do you use? You list your iron but not the other.
This guy is into music, everything from onyx shirts to volbeat, i kind of like that 😂
Awesome work good sir.
What hot air station do you use please?
Thanks Mr Flibble, hope Uncle Arnie is doing well. It's a cheap Yihua one that I bought off Amazon. They don't stock it any more, but its similar to this one amzn.to/3sBZ5bw
@@StezStixFix thx. Uncle Arnie says hello so do they other boys from the dwarf at least I think they did its hard to hear them in the quarantine suite glass.
🤣
Fantastic video, great for me as I am practising my soldering skills. Can I please ask what model magnifier you are using?
Andonstar AD407 👍
@@warpath6666 Thank you
@@101ckes I bought mine for about $230 USD ... and worth every penny. It is quite the game changer compared to my old Radio Shack soldering set-up. A list of some of Steve's set-up is in the despcription.
10:00 “Ohhh… Where’s it goin”? 🤣 Nice vid bro
😂 thanks Stephen! 😁
Been watching thecod3r who repairs professionally. He's untidy with his repairs and never cleans up. Your a thousand times cleaner repair even though you don't know what your doing. I expect your going to get better with experience.
Thanks Stephen, yeah I'm definitely getting better. I only picked up a soldering iron for the first time less than 12 months ago. So I can only improve, I guess! 😊
I just got myself a digital scope like yours and its awesome. What is that "Board clamp" you are using to hold the PCB? I've been using my badass helping hands i got from amazon to do this kit and its great but I would also like to try with the microscope. Since I have nothing to hold the board right now it would have to just sit there while i solder onto it
Thanks Jon! 👍 I also got my board holder from Amazon, it works pretty well. It's this one: amzn.to/2UZtPXV
You need 20/80 fine grade solder and a much better iron. (Don't grip the SMD, push down on it.) Tin your tip one handed and dab the solder to each joint after the SMD is held firmly in place (its a skill but solder is very mailable so can be positioned where you need it. Bend a 2-3" length at the end upwards and just dab your GOOD iron onto it)
While solder paste would work for this very specific board its main use is building up a new board, for general repair you need a good iron and fine tweezer skills.
While the offset SMDs trigger me he is correct they all make contact so will work its only if there very close together that would be an issue.
Just found this video . In regards to solder paste , squirt some out onto a surface and apply with a tooth pick , then you don't get to much on the board
Soldier paste was so cool
Hi. Do you need to solder each components on the board? I solder the middle ones and power it up. It light up but the ic caught fire
😳 I think the ones on either side are just for practice, the middle ones are the ones needed for the spinning leds.
@@StezStixFix Thank you
Thank you for your post nice work. I clicked on the thank you didn't write it down sorry
I'm new to soldering. Is it possible to solder SMD without microscope and hot air gun?
Hey Pal. It is possible, but it will be very difficult.
Ideally you need to be able to see those tiny #SMDs!
This is great! Thanks for this! I just got the same kit (it came with a couple other kits too).
How did you think the pencil soldering iron did in comparison to a larger iron?
What is the model of the heat gun that you are using?
Oooooo another video your treating us this week keep them coming that man 😉❤️
😁 Thanks Jinxy!
Prior to my previous comment on your previous video, this is obviously what I need!
Nice Video. What temp are you running the soldering iron at? Got a kit glade I found your video
Hi Maurice, it's quite a thin board so I think I had it on around 340 degrees C. Good luck with your kit, hope you get to see the magic lights at the end! 👍
Loved this video, solder paste is crazy lol, it's like it's got a mind of its own 🤭. I had no idea how delicate PCB repair is, a steady hand essential..2nd only to watch making. I saw another video and it had a little area on the pad called "Dave's Lair" 🤭 funny. Great channel, catching up on loads of videos from the past. Enjoy everyone. Thanks to StezStix 👍
Recieved mine today and there is no clear indication of which part goes where. All components are thrown in a ziplock and not labeld. Instructions are unclear and have been translated. Tutorials online all have different rated resistances so can't even follow along. Have to send it back.
if you're going to use spool solder for SMDs you probably should get some thinner gauge.
The music was a nice touch
10:03 "Ooooh where's it going?" 😂😂
I was so happy to see it's working 😄
Bought 3 kits after watching this video haha! Nice job buddy!
😁 thanks Wayne! It's very satisfying when it's all done! 👍
The project working is the best reward.... even if it is a simple device.
The second lot was actually in 4 minutes in stead of 6 (16-12)!
I got this kit on Amazon. Mine didn’t come with that nice components sheet. Tough for a newbie to figure out what’s what in the kit.
I had same prob no labels...
have. you ever attempted the us American flag smd soldering flag? I've been having issues?
What wire were you using in this it looks like 0.8 or something
Watching those damn LEDs light up made me pretty damn happy, too! I can't wait to frustrate myself with my first project.
Can't you do one more to see how much better you gotten since you did this? :) Love your channel!