Thanks Kevin. I designed and built a front suspension setup for my Duster last winter. Has 1/2° camber change and less then 1/4" negative toe change with 7" of travel. Big improvement over the factory setup and it lost over 200lbs in the process. Keep us updated on the fitness journey, its inspiring.
First off, it's good to see your back. You have a lot of great videos on suspension tuning, and I have learned a lot from those videos. As for this setup, I have the same setup in my toyota street/strip Project. The arc of the front end is a problem with A arm suspension. As the car rises and falls, the track width changes. The bump steer is another issue. Stock Front ends have so much bump steer built into it. What I found is that no matter where the rack is located, there will be bump steer. I narrowed my Mustang II front end 4 inches, and in order to have zero toe threw the travel, I had to shorten the rack 4.5 inches. Once I did this, I had zero toe threw out the arc. I did a video on it on my channel. ( " OH no!! Cutting stuff up again! Crusty gets steering). You will find it interesting as I cover a lot of what you talk about in this video and fix the issue that is going on with the car you had in the shop. Keep those videos come.
Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment! I just watched that video and you did a great job attacking the issues you faced!!!! Love your channel! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!!
I’d say the car is darty with so much toe out anyway. Seems like you are fighting the steering wheel when any front end is toe’d out. By the way, you look great dude! You inspired me to get out and start walking more, and be more aware what I’m eating! I could stand to loose 20-30 lbs, lol.
The steering rack is mounted too low on the crossmember. Mustang two front ends are known for having good geometry. I’ve worked with them a lot. The pivot of the inner tie rod should be just above the lower control arm bolt to where you can just barely get a socket on the lower control arm bolt, roughly an inch above it that has a lot to do with the arc lengths working together.
WOW I just went through this in the last two days on my chevelle the 1" ball joint helped. In shimming the outer tie rod I was able to fix the 5/8" toe out to have a bump steer of zero to 1/32 toe in at 3" lift. Really made day and night difference as mine only had only 5/8 toe out the shimming worked. I would guess other Mavericks would have the same problam... That rack does look 5/8" or so low
I'm guessing there's no room to move the upper A arm pivot down? That would help a bunch. That's part of what Shelby did to improve the early Mustang geometry.
I have ran into this problem with ford mustang 2 front end the top control arm mounting point at chassis is to high they should have used the aftermarket style that is corrected
May be a stupid question here but I'm gonna shoot.. if I didn't see any toe/caster camber changes on drop spindles will it act just the same now that I have swapped to oem spindles and +1 balljoints ?
Not a stupid question at all!!! Unless the drop spindle had any camber/caster correction, it should not change. The 1" longer ball joint will also be your friend. Thanks for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hi Kevin, Mike G great to have you and hear you again! What is the best way to get in contact with you? And where is your shop located ? I have a vehicle that needs your help and professional opinion.
with this vid, my dart would of made you cry for mercy. i bent some shit and didnt know it. had to fix bumpsteer. as i had 1 wheel pointed inwards a few inches while the pass side was nearly strait. ran 5.80s ish@122mph and didnt realize it. till i couldnt correct the car pulling to the right so badly. turning left didnt even work until off the throttle. was quite a pucker moment to say the least. all fixed now, but didnt know it even from thst pass, cus it was a noprep race. as it showed strait n true when parked. you can see it in a few of my vids from behind on driver side shots launching.
Question. If it's toe out and it's just a race car. Why not adjust toe angle in more to compensate for the 2in toe out when making the pass? Toe in or out would absolutely shred your tires under regular street driving. But since it lives only on the track why not just crank those tie rods in?
The issue is not about toe in or toe out. It is all about how much the toe changes through the raising and lowering of the front end throughout the course of the run. Front end rise is a large component of drag racing to help transfer weight to the rear. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thanks Kevin.
I designed and built a front suspension setup for my Duster last winter. Has 1/2° camber change and less then 1/4" negative toe change with 7" of travel.
Big improvement over the factory setup and it lost over 200lbs in the process.
Keep us updated on the fitness journey, its inspiring.
Hello from Malta , I hope you'll solve this problem and thanks for sharing it with us. Very good explanation like all ways ;) thank you so much.
First off, it's good to see your back. You have a lot of great videos on suspension tuning, and I have learned a lot from those videos. As for this setup, I have the same setup in my toyota street/strip Project. The arc of the front end is a problem with A arm suspension. As the car rises and falls, the track width changes. The bump steer is another issue. Stock Front ends have so much bump steer built into it. What I found is that no matter where the rack is located, there will be bump steer. I narrowed my Mustang II front end 4 inches, and in order to have zero toe threw the travel, I had to shorten the rack 4.5 inches. Once I did this, I had zero toe threw out the arc. I did a video on it on my channel. ( " OH no!! Cutting stuff up again! Crusty gets steering). You will find it interesting as I cover a lot of what you talk about in this video and fix the issue that is going on with the car you had in the shop. Keep those videos come.
Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment! I just watched that video and you did a great job attacking the issues you faced!!!! Love your channel! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!!
I learned so much from this video! Thank you
Glad you’re back
I’d say the car is darty with so much toe out anyway. Seems like you are fighting the steering wheel when any front end is toe’d out. By the way, you look great dude! You inspired me to get out and start walking more, and be more aware what I’m eating! I could stand to loose 20-30 lbs, lol.
The steering rack is mounted too low on the crossmember. Mustang two front ends are known for having good geometry. I’ve worked with them a lot. The pivot of the inner tie rod should be just above the lower control arm bolt to where you can just barely get a socket on the lower control arm bolt, roughly an inch above it that has a lot to do with the arc lengths working together.
WOW I just went through this in the last two days on my chevelle the 1" ball joint helped. In shimming the outer tie rod I was able to fix the 5/8" toe out to have a bump steer of zero to 1/32 toe in at 3" lift. Really made day and night difference as mine only had only 5/8 toe out the shimming worked. I would guess other Mavericks would have the same problam... That rack does look 5/8" or so low
I'm guessing there's no room to move the upper A arm pivot down? That would help a bunch. That's part of what Shelby did to improve the early Mustang geometry.
Awesome video keep them coming whenever you get the time.
Thanks keep up the work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have ran into this problem with ford mustang 2 front end the top control arm mounting point at chassis is to high they should have used the aftermarket style that is corrected
Great to see more suspension vids 👍🏻 interesting
Glad you like them! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC building a ladder bar car at the moment, your vids have defo helped in my research stage. 👍🏻👌🏻
Very good, thanks for posting!!
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Hey Kevin do you ever go to WWTR drag strip?
Unfortunately I do not... Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Sooooo how did you leave it ??. Did the guy want a 1" upper ball joint and adjust the rack to get most of the problem fixed ?.
The customer took my feedback and wanted to investigate his options. He picked up the car as it was in this video. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
May be a stupid question here but I'm gonna shoot.. if I didn't see any toe/caster camber changes on drop spindles will it act just the same now that I have swapped to oem spindles and +1 balljoints ?
Not a stupid question at all!!! Unless the drop spindle had any camber/caster correction, it should not change. The 1" longer ball joint will also be your friend. Thanks for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Good stuff !
Hi Kevin, Mike G great to have you and hear you again! What is the best way to get in contact with you? And where is your shop located ? I have a vehicle that needs your help and professional opinion.
www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBCI sent email with some basic info. Thank you!!🇺🇸
Wow that’s crazy
Great information!
merci !
with this vid, my dart would of made you cry for mercy. i bent some shit and didnt know it. had to fix bumpsteer. as i had 1 wheel pointed inwards a few inches while the pass side was nearly strait. ran 5.80s ish@122mph and didnt realize it. till i couldnt correct the car pulling to the right so badly. turning left didnt even work until off the throttle. was quite a pucker moment to say the least. all fixed now, but didnt know it even from thst pass, cus it was a noprep race. as it showed strait n true when parked. you can see it in a few of my vids from behind on driver side shots launching.
S10 spindles is taller will fix lot that problem
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
Question.
If it's toe out and it's just a race car. Why not adjust toe angle in more to compensate for the 2in toe out when making the pass? Toe in or out would absolutely shred your tires under regular street driving. But since it lives only on the track why not just crank those tie rods in?
The issue is not about toe in or toe out. It is all about how much the toe changes through the raising and lowering of the front end throughout the course of the run. Front end rise is a large component of drag racing to help transfer weight to the rear. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!