Hey I have watched a lot of videos of yours I was wondering if you could put a video together just showing different rear tires launches in slow motion of what it looks like when tire is hit to hard, when tire is overpowered, etc etc and some tips on what you can do to maybe correct each situation at the track. I have a Silverado with caltracs myself and I wanna try and be consistent in my launches
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks bud I’m actual local to u I work right in port of Charleston and I race bowman, orangeburg and Jackson a lot. Used to go darlington and Savannah and stuff to but fuel prices killing me right now with towing so staying within 50 miles
Kevin, excellent job explaining the shock data, terms, etc. I might suggest at some point you talk about what is "high speed" & "low speed" as it's thrown around but people never describe what is considered high & low. It's important especially when getting into multi-speed adjustment shocks that have high & low & some medium. ranges. This is where measuring & understanding shock velocity data is so important.
Great stuff Kevin, that shock reaction/velocity stuff is really interesting. I'm really beginning to appreciate the technology in the multi-adjustable. Thanks for sharing the wisdom!
Enjoying all the videos so far, they are clear and concise. I have a Gasser, 62 Nova, BBC & Auto, Front reasonably high, Mono Leaf Rear and old Ansen Ground Grabber Bars. So my question is, to continue with the shift of weight to the rear as it is already with the front high, dropping the ground grabber locator at the back of the diff will give it more bite. As I expect I will have to point the anti squat line up as much as possible. I am running reasonable competition adj shocks and 30 x 9 Radial slicks. Any help would be appreciated.👌
Thanks, Chris, for leaving a comment. There are just too many variables for me to begin attempting to help from the info I have on your car. Sorry for that. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Good video! I know they don’t get the most views but I’m really interested in how to calculate instant center with an fbody torque arm. Just added even more lower control arm points to my rear end and changing to a softer spring on the rear because of what I’ve learned on this channel! Thankyou for your time and effort on these videos!
Thanks for commenting. I cover this in my F Body playlist at F Body - Torque Arm Drag Racing Videos ua-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_IpX8T6BGSREHjXiSEVS8O6.html and the impacts of the tq arm and the LCA relo brackets.
Kevin I just wanted to say thank you for all your great videos and schooling!!! I’m that guy that loves to learn and thinking I understand how it works then you school us on things that we didn’t think of and you have inspired me to keep learning and every answer is different, if I did this or that even if it looks like the same thing in my head. Every run is different the track changes in a few hours my thinking cap is the size of a bus and I thank you for making great videos and making me think and still have fun at the track and on the way home I can say that was an awesome day!!! Well I’m going to put on some more of your videos and clean up my thoughts about what I want to happen in the next blast down the track!!! Thanks Tony Bradenton Florida
Kevin, love the channel! For a leaf spring/ladder bar set up, can you run the stock type spring connection at the housing and use sliders at front and rear of spring?
Not sure I understand the question completely regarding sliders at the front of the spring. Sliders go on the rear spring mount to allow for added movement on the suspension. The front spring mount, even with ladder bars, we have always mounted them solid. For the leaf spring connection at the housing with ladder bars, we always highly recommend floaters. Hope this helps! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Chrysler had this "no prep" stuff figured out in 1965. Look at the altered wheelbase cars in Factory Experimental. Rear was moved forward 15" and fronts were moved 11" all using factory framerails and suspension components. They would eventually become "Funny cars" and have full tube chassis and fiberglass bodies but for a brief period of time a nitro injected blown Hemi altered wheelbase car was the ultimate low or no prep big HP platform. With modern touches could still be competitive today IMO.
Awesome video, cheers for answering the question on the shock data has really helped, really appreciate it. Do you have shock data from your car your willing to share? I wouldn’t mind seeing what a bit of seperation on a big tyre slick works
Watching your videos has been excellent for me learning, however I have to ask about pinion angle being set to -2 degrees to zero…what about induced vibrations from non matching angles at the transmission to rear axle pinion angle ? Does this occur and if so doesn’t this stress the driveshaft by not having cancelling angles at the front and rear? Thanks
Hey Kevin what kind of set up do you think those big wheel 24 inch slick cars run? In regards to rear suspension . I would assume close to a radial car?
Hi Kevin. Have you done any work with the Foxbody Team Z Relocated Upper Control Arms with the "bracket" that attaches to the differential where the bushings go?
Not too much. Generally with the solid bushings installed it is more about the lower control relocations brackets. Sorry. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Definitely had the wrong arms on the mustang. Looks like the arms they had were probably for a 94-04 mustang. Even though the suspensions on the fox body and sn95/new edge cars are very similar the front control arms are one of the few differences. The 94-04 control arms are 1 inch linger than the factory fox body.
Kevin please consider hanging a black sheet to cover the back of your space . Don’t want to sound like a NANCY -but it’s kind of distracting …keep up the great content !
Let's answer 7 of the top questions by viewers of my channel!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Can you talk about engine height in no prep. Crank centerline height could be key to unlocking the 4s in the backtrack scene
Hey I have watched a lot of videos of yours I was wondering if you could put a video together just showing different rear tires launches in slow motion of what it looks like when tire is hit to hard, when tire is overpowered, etc etc and some tips on what you can do to maybe correct each situation at the track. I have a Silverado with caltracs myself and I wanna try and be consistent in my launches
Will add that to the list. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks bud I’m actual local to u I work right in port of Charleston and I race bowman, orangeburg and Jackson a lot. Used to go darlington and Savannah and stuff to but fuel prices killing me right now with towing so staying within 50 miles
Great video thanks for all your help it’s nice having someone you can ask a question and get the right answer Thanks Again Kevin
Glad to help! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks for all your help in the drag racing community.
Any time! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I had no clue you were in SC. I will be scheduling with you once my cars running to set up suspension
Awesome!!! Great to have you onboard and I look forward to working with you!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin, excellent job explaining the shock data, terms, etc. I might suggest at some point you talk about what is "high speed" & "low speed" as it's thrown around but people never describe what is considered high & low. It's important especially when getting into multi-speed adjustment shocks that have high & low & some medium. ranges. This is where measuring & understanding shock velocity data is so important.
I will add that to the list for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Great stuff Kevin, that shock reaction/velocity stuff is really interesting. I'm really beginning to appreciate the technology in the multi-adjustable. Thanks for sharing the wisdom!
Great to hear! Thanks for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Cheap scales using bathroom scale and leverage bar work great
not sure I follow you on this comment, but ok. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Enjoying all the videos so far, they are clear and concise.
I have a Gasser, 62 Nova, BBC & Auto, Front reasonably high, Mono Leaf Rear and old Ansen Ground Grabber Bars. So my question is, to continue with the shift of weight to the rear as it is already with the front high, dropping the ground grabber locator at the back of the diff will give it more bite. As I expect I will have to point the anti squat line up as much as possible. I am running reasonable competition adj shocks and 30 x 9 Radial slicks.
Any help would be appreciated.👌
Thanks, Chris, for leaving a comment. There are just too many variables for me to begin attempting to help from the info I have on your car. Sorry for that. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
awesome video as always!! thank you kevin, you're always sharing bits of your knowledge and you're awesome!!
Thanks so much!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Love this format! Please do more of this....
Thanks so much!! Part 2 will be out soon! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Good video! I know they don’t get the most views but I’m really interested in how to calculate instant center with an fbody torque arm. Just added even more lower control arm points to my rear end and changing to a softer spring on the rear because of what I’ve learned on this channel! Thankyou for your time and effort on these videos!
Thanks for commenting. I cover this in my F Body playlist at F Body - Torque Arm Drag Racing Videos
ua-cam.com/play/PLK2JQ7QIgx_IpX8T6BGSREHjXiSEVS8O6.html and the impacts of the tq arm and the LCA relo brackets.
Kevin I just wanted to say thank you for all your great videos and schooling!!! I’m that guy that loves to learn and thinking I understand how it works then you school us on things that we didn’t think of and you have inspired me to keep learning and every answer is different, if I did this or that even if it looks like the same thing in my head. Every run is different the track changes in a few hours my thinking cap is the size of a bus and I thank you for making great videos and making me think and still have fun at the track and on the way home I can say that was an awesome day!!! Well I’m going to put on some more of your videos and clean up my thoughts about what I want to happen in the next blast down the track!!! Thanks Tony Bradenton Florida
Thanks so much, Tony! Appreciate you taking the time to write this comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Kevin, love the channel! For a leaf spring/ladder bar set up, can you run the stock type spring connection at the housing and use sliders at front and rear of spring?
Not sure I understand the question completely regarding sliders at the front of the spring. Sliders go on the rear spring mount to allow for added movement on the suspension. The front spring mount, even with ladder bars, we have always mounted them solid. For the leaf spring connection at the housing with ladder bars, we always highly recommend floaters. Hope this helps! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Chrysler had this "no prep" stuff figured out in 1965. Look at the altered wheelbase cars in Factory Experimental. Rear was moved forward 15" and fronts were moved 11" all using factory framerails and suspension components. They would eventually become "Funny cars" and have full tube chassis and fiberglass bodies but for a brief period of time a nitro injected blown Hemi altered wheelbase car was the ultimate low or no prep big HP platform. With modern touches could still be competitive today IMO.
Yes... agreed! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Awesome video, cheers for answering the question on the shock data has really helped, really appreciate it. Do you have shock data from your car your willing to share? I wouldn’t mind seeing what a bit of seperation on a big tyre slick works
Absolutely and thank-you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
can’t you run a line from the top of the front tire to the bottom of the rear tire as a general rule of a anti-squat line. For people without scales.
You can certainly do that as a point of reference, then see how the car reacts and tweak from there. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another good one sir.
Thanks so much!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Lol, if you watch my last video sir. Im trying to keep it on the front wheels!
@@Go4BrokeOffroad Wow!!! I would love to get to one of those events one of these days!!!
Watching your videos has been excellent for me learning, however I have to ask about pinion angle being set to -2 degrees to zero…what about induced vibrations from non matching angles at the transmission to rear axle pinion angle ? Does this occur and if so doesn’t this stress the driveshaft by not having cancelling angles at the front and rear? Thanks
Use 4:1 scale multipliers, and old school bathroom scales. Way cheaper. Just not as convenient.
Thanks for commenting!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hey Kevin what kind of set up do you think those big wheel 24 inch slick cars run? In regards to rear suspension . I would assume close to a radial car?
You are on the right track with that!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin- My car is very consistent 1.23-1.25 60ft. .5.70-75 et.Can you give me any advice about predicting et with weather changes?
www.wallaceracing.com/convert-et-to-msa.php Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Can you tell me the difference between D05 d06 and C07 Hoosier tires And which application each tire works best for
I will add that question to the Q&A series... my opinion on this one is about like everyone else... LOL... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin my car is 50.03 percent I can move my engine back still 3in would it be worth it the engine will go back that far.
That depends on other factors... 3in would definitely move weight around. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I keep hearing big tire 4 link cars must run negative anitsquat. (below 100%)... Why is that? where radial cars must run over 100%?
I will cover this question in part 2 this weekend. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hi Kevin.
Have you done any work with the Foxbody Team Z Relocated Upper Control Arms with the "bracket" that attaches to the differential where the bushings go?
Not too much. Generally with the solid bushings installed it is more about the lower control relocations brackets. Sorry. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Definitely had the wrong arms on the mustang. Looks like the arms they had were probably for a 94-04 mustang. Even though the suspensions on the fox body and sn95/new edge cars are very similar the front control arms are one of the few differences. The 94-04 control arms are 1 inch linger than the factory fox body.
Great info and thanks for commenting!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin please consider hanging a black sheet to cover the back of your space . Don’t want to sound like a NANCY -but it’s kind of distracting …keep up the great content !
LOL... I have a new video place in the works... sorry for the distractions. LOL... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!